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  #51  
Old 03-19-2007, 05:15 PM
TheSteve TheSteve is offline
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The fets are technically easy to install, they have 8 pins, on one side 4 are connected together, on the other side 3 are connected together. Soldering them into an ESC is usually tough though as the PCB's in a good quality ESC offer massive heatsinking properties and therefore require good wattage in the soldering iron. I use a Weller WES-D51 and this is the limit of the soldering iron.
The fets in my version of the Max were Vishay Si4368dy's. To buy 18 of them costs pretty much what Castle charges for a flat rate replacement of the Max
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  #52  
Old 03-19-2007, 05:20 PM
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Demon-TC3 Demon-TC3 is offline
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wow i figured they would be cheap...not sure why...guess not
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  #53  
Old 03-19-2007, 05:45 PM
TheSteve TheSteve is offline
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Yep, if an end user was to buy all the parts used in a Mamba Max it would cost more then the retail price of the controller. Most people don't realize how low the margin is on a Max - Castle obviously gets huge discounts on parts, but even then its not cheap to build.
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  #54  
Old 03-19-2007, 09:59 PM
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glassdoctor glassdoctor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demon-TC3
ROFL yea..

Question to the DOC: You would make the sink smaller? Most people complain of the sink being too small!

Just for running in 1/10 buggy.... make is look real small and not rub the body. You could shave down half the sink and it would still be fine in a buggy.

Now for a MMM wannabe... then just double the # of caps and mount a nice fan.
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  #55  
Old 03-20-2007, 12:36 AM
bdebde bdebde is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glassdoctor
...Now for a MMM wannabe... then just double the # of caps and mount a nice fan.
Use more and higher voltage caps, double up the fets and SHAZAM...MMM
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  #56  
Old 03-20-2007, 01:31 AM
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tcolesen tcolesen is offline
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Almost . The MM FETs are 25v, so you would need to upgrade to 50v. Double up on FETs, and then you should have the MMM .
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  #57  
Old 03-20-2007, 02:16 AM
TheSteve TheSteve is offline
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The stock fets in the Mamba are actually 30 volt. One could probably up the voltage of the fets and the power capacitors. I figure at some point you may need to change some resistors as well to control the back EMF voltages.

And before anyone else rips the heatsink off they better be sure they don't have a newer version Max, you won't be using a conventional soldering iron to change the fets, they are hotair rework only!

I believe they are the same fets as seen here:
http://www.fahrenheit-145.net/Fahren...W/cimg0001.jpg
These fets also have an insanely low on resistance - better then the originals.

I've been pondering doing some hardware reviews of a few brushless ESC's. At the moment I can talk about the Mamba Max, Schulze U-Force75, Schulze 58ce(old) and the Novak SuperSport(again pretty old) I have worked on and fixed all of them. They each have good and bad points, if someone mixed them altogether they could build the best overall ESC. I'd love to rip apart a Novak GTB but I don't have one and won't be buying one anytime soon. Any thoughts? Do people have an interest in learning more about the inner workings of the various brushless ESC's out there what parts the companies are using?
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  #58  
Old 03-21-2007, 01:35 AM
bdebde bdebde is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSteve
...
I've been pondering doing some hardware reviews of a few brushless ESC's. At the moment I can talk about the Mamba Max, Schulze U-Force75, Schulze 58ce(old) and the Novak SuperSport(again pretty old) I have worked on and fixed all of them. They each have good and bad points, if someone mixed them altogether they could build the best overall ESC. I'd love to rip apart a Novak GTB but I don't have one and won't be buying one anytime soon. Any thoughts? Do people have an interest in learning more about the inner workings of the various brushless ESC's out there what parts the companies are using?
Yeah, I would like to see some of that.
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  #59  
Old 03-22-2007, 10:41 PM
Joe Ford Joe Ford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glassdoctor
Send Joe a gift certificate for a steak dinner and see if he can get a few off the production line without sinks.
Now THAT is the best idea. Sub sushi in for steak though...I don't eat steak (long story, don't ask).
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  #60  
Old 03-22-2007, 10:48 PM
Joe Ford Joe Ford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glassdoctor
Send Joe a gift certificate for a steak dinner and see if he can get a few off the production line without sinks.
Now THAT is the best idea. Sub sushi in for steak though...I don't eat steak (long story, don't ask).

Steve...not too shabby...and you're definitely right...parts cost on these if you built one would blow your mind...it's not cheap for us either, but due to the sheer quantity of parts we buy we do get a discount...we try to give you the best product for the $ though as well.



Quote:
Originally Posted by bdebde
Use more and higher voltage caps, double up the fets and SHAZAM...MMM
Ahhhhhhhhhhh...if only it were that easy.

Last edited by Joe Ford; 03-22-2007 at 10:59 PM.
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  #61  
Old 03-23-2007, 12:21 AM
jedipirate jedipirate is offline
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the other reason for removing the heatsink would be for different colors!i dont know which would be worse;removing the heatsink or trying to re anodize it with it on.forgive me for wanting to be different.
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  #62  
Old 03-23-2007, 05:11 AM
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Demon-TC3 Demon-TC3 is offline
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Re annodising a heatsink is IMPOSSIBLE while its on the MM!

Basically you need to throw the heatsink into acid, pass a current through it (by this point every peice of electronics is fried and the case is disolved) once thats done you need to throw it in some die then some boiling water... m(obviously its a little more controlled than that)

But if you wanted to annodize it you MUST remove it first.
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