View Full Version : HPI Sprint Forum
nick51
04-11-2004, 12:04 AM
yea i got pics but how can i post them
BUGDRY
04-18-2004, 01:17 PM
What are the extra c-clips, gears and stuff that came with the kit on the parts sprue for?
nick51
04-28-2004, 11:44 PM
check out my hpi sprint for sale http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165711
BUGDRY those u stick on the shocks for higher lift.
bizaare69
05-04-2004, 11:51 PM
BUGDRY those u stick on the shocks for higher lift.
isnt that only the c-clips but what are those gear lookin things and the other jagged things?????if u know what i mean prob not but thats ok lol
vic2367
05-06-2004, 10:52 AM
sprint isa pretty good car.....
BUGDRY
05-07-2004, 07:50 AM
How fast are your Sprints? What type of motor, batteries, gears and ESC do you run?
bizaare69
05-11-2004, 12:59 PM
Hey evrybody i was wondering if anyone had ran more than 6 cells on their nosram tomahawk reverse??? and would it make a difference with 1 or 2 more cells. and whats the limit? some sites said 8cells some said safely 7cells.
Thnx for any replies
bizaare69
05-17-2004, 12:02 PM
Sup everybody i was driving my car in a parking lot and there was a tight corner i was drifting around so i was going around it trying to pull it out but it was too late and i smoked my bumper on the corner and bustet the bumper mount :mad: so for now i just CL glued it back together it should hold for now but it wont be any good as a bumper. im also kinda wondering if my shop will even be able to get a replacement peice or if ill have to get it of the net cause im in canada and all.......lol. i just thought i would post that
BUGDRY
05-27-2004, 07:25 PM
I did almost the same thing as you. Except I thought i was past a corner of a meridian when i cranked the car to the right...right into the curb. I got a sweet rebound bounce though. :D Oh well I just went down to my lhs and ordered a new bumper. It only tooke a week. I'm in Canada and HPI has lots of distributors up here too. Problem was though I realized when i had the body off it I found that a rock had got into the belts and shredded the small one by the motor. I ordered this part too, only to find out that HPI had discontinued it. Fortunately I am able to substitute the 5mm one from the RS4. Well good luck on getting the partdude.
Anyone know if there are any companies that make custom parts for Sprints? I'm getting the chassis plates lasercut at work out of aluminum, but I was wondering if there were companies that did custom stuff already.(other that HPI) Also can I use parts from other HPI models on my SPrint?
vic2367
05-30-2004, 01:14 PM
was wondering the same thng...can i use other hpi parts ?
Hey guys, I just got me a Sprint and it's great. Just wondering if the rally Inner set can fit on it. Perhaps with a little coaxing?
sorbee711
08-24-2004, 11:32 AM
Anyone have a list of parts that work on a sprint that aren't just the normal Sprint parts listed as replacement parts like you'll find at towerhobbies.com?
sorbee711
08-24-2004, 12:05 PM
Also where can I find what gearing to use with my motor. I've got a 17turn Team Orion Rush, and was thinking of doing Robinson Racing SuperLite Pinion Purple 64P 36T with HPI Spur Gear 64P 116T. But don't want to hose my motor.
Thanks.
microrcdude
08-24-2004, 06:57 PM
Ya man ill help. hold up a sec though
microrcdude
08-24-2004, 07:13 PM
Here is a bunch of goodies for your car.
Purple stuff: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRD83&P=Z http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPC2&P=7 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPB58&P=7
Racing shocks: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM468&P=0
Purple Alum. Shocks: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAHM6&P=7
Ill keep you updated
sorbee711
08-25-2004, 11:17 AM
Excellent. Thanks. I want to make my Sprint fast and able to take corners.
So far I've done most of the steps people have suggested in this thread.
2 more questions:
1. What does the optional ball diff do? Is it like a limited slip diff?
2. What prevents me from using the front one-way diff in the rear?
Thanks!
sorbee711
08-25-2004, 11:25 AM
Ok, also I figured out I have a 87/27 setup which yields a 6.86 ratio. In terms of gearing what is a "large" change? I don't want to kill my motor by overgearing or undergearing, but I don't know if going to 7.xx or 5.xx is a huge change or not. So in terms of ratio change what is a big change?
I was figuring on keeping the 87 and getting 26-29 Robinson Superlite pinions.
Thanks.
microrcdude
08-31-2004, 07:18 PM
i think large means having big pinion to spur ratio. not sure though.
those robinson pinions are great. i use them in my buggies.
Demoniac
09-08-2004, 04:19 PM
Excellent. Thanks. I want to make my Sprint fast and able to take corners.
So far I've done most of the steps people have suggested in this thread.
2 more questions:
1. What does the optional ball diff do? Is it like a limited slip diff?
2. What prevents me from using the front one-way diff in the rear?
Thanks!1. Yes a ball diff is like a limited slip diff (you can adjust the amount of lock by tightening/loosening the diff)
2. If you put a one-way diff on your car, the wheels will run free when you brake/release the trottle. So if you put 2 one-way diffs on your car, you will not have any possibility of braking. I think I don't need to explait why that's bad ;)
I've got a Sprint 2 myself and I'd like to convert it to a rally car. What are the differences between a normal Sprint and a Sprint Rally?
microrcdude
09-11-2004, 07:55 PM
suspension. It has longer suspension arms and shocks
Chopper
10-15-2004, 12:15 AM
Hey all,
Time for you guys to help out what you'd call an old man! I bought my daughter the Sprint for her B-Day and need a little input. As far as gearing, my daughter is not in full control yet at super high speed so what gear ratio will get the car up to speed the fastest without dropping too much top speed, (spur and pinion info,plus pitch)Also of course please only give me a good combo that won't fry the motor!!! I'm gonna get the adjustable turnbuckles but what is the final camber and toe in settings that a parking lot driver should use. And will 26mm wheels fit ok and should I use soft foam in the rear and hard in the front? I've read the whole forum and if you want to lay your setup out and why it's best, share it. Just looking for plan. Also do 7 cell 8.4 v add more speed/power than a 7.2v 6 cell? They sure add to the price...do optional dogbones or servo connectors make any difference? Who makes a good parking lot 26mm tire? Thanks for the help!
Also, someone spoke about ESC setup, I looked all over HPI Racing and found no good info, can the proportion to forward and braking % be adjusted? Hers is basically forward or reverse so braking is like slamming a car into reverse!
townsends
12-16-2004, 05:31 AM
i'm new to rc racing and i was wondering if hpi sprint 2 parts will fit onto the original sprint :)
Tom6576
12-16-2004, 07:18 PM
Well, I only know about basic electricity, but if you have a high voltage system it pushes more power. So if you push more voltage than the total current goes up also (amps). You would probably need a esc capable of using the higher voltage. Cause if you have too much current flowing through a circuit, it will burn up.
IMPREZA87
01-15-2005, 10:34 PM
I just bought a 27t Monster Horsepower Stock and im wondering what should i gear it at for a short track with a decent amout of turns with about a 45ft straight away? its a carpet track
SAhomeboy
04-10-2005, 05:17 AM
Is HPI Sprint still alive? Does anyone know when Tower will be receiving the new SPRINT 2? If you look at hpi europe's site, you should find a video clip featuring the new sprint 2 - looks extremely good and sporty.
Anybody?
bizaare69
04-10-2005, 06:05 PM
K help me out here please.
i strapped my GPS to my hpi sprint and my gps does not have a top speed function so what i do is create a track then download it onto my comp and it shows the speeds i was at at any which point. so when i finished it and loaded up and when i over viewed it it apparantly said thati hit a top speed of 63 kph which is 39 mph is that accurate??? is it possible i am going that fast i have a 90 tooth spur and a 28 tooth pinion (stock pinion) and a Team Orion Rush 17x2 motor the rest is all stock.
So the question is do you think this is accurate??
killac
05-12-2005, 07:04 PM
im a total newb !!! i need some help i have a stock sprint. im looking to buy the slipper on www.hpiracing.com . this is all i know what to buy so far please help me . you guys are a wealth of knowlege from what i hear.
-kc
killac
05-12-2005, 07:24 PM
im goin to hobby shops in a few days and wouldlike to know what to look into
Eli the rc guy
05-30-2005, 11:58 PM
Man is the sprint better or the TC4? Isnt the sprint older than the tc4?O.o well anyways id just like to say that the sprint is a petty good car and i need some tips can anyone help??????????????????????????????????????:D its for my buddy since he isnt a memeber. ;)
BUGDRY
05-31-2005, 12:04 PM
no problem, what do you need help with?
Eli the rc guy
06-07-2005, 08:00 PM
i saw the sprint 2 it dosnt look that great it seems the same as the sprint. I wouldnt get it
Eli the rc guy
07-07-2005, 12:33 AM
Hey lisen guys im gunna buy a sprint this weekend is there any hopups i should know about if so answer me. I need to know any gett set ups too.
Eli the rc guy
07-07-2005, 07:49 PM
Do any of u think that getting a sprint for 380 is a rip?
nick51
07-07-2005, 09:22 PM
Do any of u think that getting a sprint for 380 is a rip?
yes you are getting ripped off unless your getting top of the line stuff w/ it.
What all is w/ it?
Eli the rc guy
07-08-2005, 01:40 PM
its just a normal rtr sprint. Pluse im in Canada so.....o and i found out that a normal sprint stock gose 22mph out of the box and thats with the 20 turn saturn.o yea almost forgot. Dose the rtr Sprint weels and tires glued already? because it sys on the website u have to glue them together :D :confused:
Eli the rc guy
07-09-2005, 10:59 PM
um.. hello is anyone even still in this form?
bizaare69
07-10-2005, 11:32 PM
Well some people no but when im around ill see if i cvan help ya out. the tires i had were glued in the rtr on my sprint but after a week i was back buying new tires because those balded and became drifting timres so i bought some hpi x type tires they stick to pavement/cement awesome. but i am also in canada and i payed 420 taxes and alll brand new in box in canadian. but im getting my new car wed it should be tight its almost the same as a sprint its a neo t-21 and im getting a new esc and ill be running a 17x 2 team orion rush motor. i have a stock sprint so any questions you need just ask k ttyl
BIZAARE
BUGDRY
07-12-2005, 12:06 PM
yeah we're still here. I have a some custom parts for my sprint. Also I have put some upgraded parts on it too. So Email me if you have any questions @ bugdry@gmail.com
bizaare69
07-14-2005, 02:30 PM
yeah we're still here. I have a some custom parts for my sprint. Also I have put some upgraded parts on it too. So Email me if you have any questions @ bugdry@gmail.com
hey bug dry can you post some pics and put a lis of your upgrades and what some good upgrades you think are. thnx Bizaare
BUGDRY
07-19-2005, 01:35 PM
hey bug dry can you post some pics and put a lis of your upgrades and what some good upgrades you think are. thnx Bizaare
Upgrades I Have:
Custom aluminum top chassis plate
Custom aluminum rear bumper
Adjustable tie rod set
Robinson racing pinion gear set
HPI racing slicks, rubber inserts and wheels
Stainless steel mock brake disks
Stainless steel mock exhaust
Part I Want To Upgrade:
Sprint universal dog-bones
One-way differential for Sprint
15TURN REEDY MOTOR
HPI Wheel Nut M4 Purple (Z679)
HPI Aluminum Servo Mount 10mm Purple RS4 Pro 4 (75167)
HPI Aluminum Cone Washers Purple (72063)
HPI Super Shock Set (A111)
Hot Bodies Purple Shocks HPI (24000)
PICS OF ALUMINUM PARTS TO FOLLOW....
guver
09-27-2005, 10:50 PM
I had been eying up the sprint and finally sprung for it. It seems to be similar to the 4-tec as in it's a beginner car, but with 540 motor and hop-upable.
question, do the hpi dash parts fit?
is this rtr discontinued? no action here in the thread?
BUGDRY
09-28-2005, 07:18 AM
There are lots of upgrade parts for the sprint. IF you read back just a few pages in the forum yuou will swee what i mean. I don't know why anyone would want to put dash parts on a sprint!!??
Neon_Dave
10-05-2005, 05:25 PM
My friend has a Sprint, and I like it a lot. I put some speedmind sweeper foams on it at the track and it handles a lot better than my TC3... We had some problems with the rear belt, but after sacking a few belts we came up with a lexan diff guard, I'd be surprised if another belt got mutilated again because of rocks.....
Anyways, now with the Sprint 2 out (with optional carbon lower+upper decks and towers, aluminum diffs and tons of other stuff, I think the Sprint has a LOT of hop up potential, I'd even say it's worth it to make it an all-out racer.
I'm pleased with HPI's sprint, and am glad that I made that reccommendation to my friend - he was looking for a car and I reccommended the sprint to him, and we're both happy with it.
Just my 0.02,
-Dave
BUGDRY
10-06-2005, 07:00 AM
got any pics of your diff guard??
Neon_Dave
10-06-2005, 03:41 PM
Next time I see my friend, I will try to get some pics up.
The guard is just a peice of lexan cut to fit with a little opening for the belt. We had a bit of trouble with fit problems on the first one we made, but later made a V2, but basically you just need a peice of lexan some scissors and a few hours to spare. It is held on to the extra holes on the rear diff mount.
-Dave
guver
10-27-2005, 04:57 PM
Question to the rtr sprint people. I have around 3 runs or so on mine and the steering won't stay centered. It is all the ball joints on the tie rods and links are too tight when new.
I tried some dry lube and some wet lube, but cannot get them to loosen up. Is there a easy fix for making them loose so they do not bind? thanks
Neon_Dave
10-27-2005, 05:05 PM
If It's a new RTR sprint, I'd reccomend getting a more powerful servo. I think the one that comes with it is not powerful enough. My friend had some problems with his stock one, had some trouble keeping it straight and changing directions quickly.
Then he bought a new 20$ hitec servo and it was all fixed.
It seemed to me the ball joints were a bit tight too, but they are definitely made strong to stay where they're supposed to (unlike some cars... AHEM - My tc3..... :) )
So in a nutshell, I dont think it's the balljoints and all that are the problem. Try borrowing a more powerful one from a friend (if possible) or try out a newer, more powerful one.
I'm not sure about the torque/speed ratings on the stock servo though... :rolleyes:
Hope this helps...
-Dave ;)
guver
10-27-2005, 05:10 PM
Oh yes, a more powerful servo would "fix" it, but that is like covering over the symptom. The cause is the pivots being too tight and I would rather fix it , it is the same servo I use in all my other cars and the problem shows up on a stand without even driving the car. Possibly I may spin all the balls in a drill with some compound and maybe they will loosen up. they really are heavy duty and very tight though. thanks
guver
10-27-2005, 06:24 PM
I just got done messing w/ it and it is 4 connections on the tie-rods. I also find that the lower shock balls are the same way. The fix so far has been to force the ball partly out of the plastic rod and leave it there for an hour. When putting back in it able to be spun by fingers. I will report how it holds up.
guver
10-30-2005, 07:03 PM
Update, is the plastic tends to return to its original shape. All the bolt on (2 piece) ball ends are perfect and all the 1 peice (screw in) are binding. I plan to let them set with the large part of the ball pushed partly out of the cup overnite.
guver
11-07-2005, 10:55 PM
Here's another update, the plastic tie-rods seems to have taken thier original shape and holding the ball ends too tight. This prompted me to install a much larger ball (from an evader) into the 4 ends and let them set overnite. This has been an ideal fix for over a week. The sprint now drives straight.
I had went up to 7 cells, and installed as rear wing and softened the rear susp up slightly. Next step is to go up to 8 cells and see if it keep up with the 8 cell 4-tec.
It sure does turn better than the 4-tec.
tl_ke_racer
02-01-2006, 05:01 PM
does anyone know if their is a difference between the sprint and sprint , im thinking of getting a sprint but the newer one costs more, but is it really different or is the sprint 1 being discontinued... please lmk thanks.
guver
02-02-2006, 02:09 AM
I understand the sprint to be discontinued and replaced by the sprint 2. Check the hpi site it lists the differences and improvemnets. My sprint has been ruinning 8 cells and loves it, It is same speed as the 8 cell 4 tec.
tl_ke_racer
02-11-2006, 01:12 AM
well I think IM going to get a sprint 2 what would you guys think is the #1 upgrade?
tl_ke_racer
02-11-2006, 01:23 AM
another question I see the stock bodys are 190mm can a 200mm body fit right and not be to big?
Neon_Dave
02-11-2006, 09:38 AM
the 200 mm bodies will generally be too big, I mean there's no problems with them, just they look kind of weird because of the wheels so far inside.
You could always get wheels with some offset to compensate.
tl_ke_racer
02-11-2006, 02:26 PM
yah thats what i was afraid of that the wheels would be too far inside.
guver
03-20-2006, 10:03 PM
Hey, what makes the tires wear out on the insides the most? They are all getting a groove worn around just inside of the inside bead area, 1 is even worn thru.
My sprint does not have adjustable camber.
matt_s86
03-30-2006, 02:29 PM
I'd say just buy the adjustable tie-rod set that HPI makes for the Sprint. I had to, because I had the same problem. Its only around $7. It's not turnbuckles, but at least the links are adjustable. It is available at Tower Hobbies, btw.
Matt
guver
03-30-2006, 03:29 PM
Thanks, I am thinking it is the camber that is too much neg. camber?
matt_s86
03-30-2006, 07:15 PM
Right, I'd say that it would pretty much have to be from excessive camber. The only other thing it could be is something binding on the tire, but thts very doubtful.
Matt
guver
03-30-2006, 07:30 PM
Ya, ok It is all 4 of them. I'm checking out adjustables.
I have an Hpi rs4 Original and i race it against sprints , and belive it or not The Original RS4 has a better handling then the sprint, although the sprint is a good starter kit . I think HPI has made a good choice with the sprint to attract more people into the Hobby. ;-)..
raytracer
04-20-2006, 04:49 AM
Excellent car. I was surprised to see the sprint 2 looks very similar to a pro2. No doubt it would perform great. But also I was surprised with the price. For a little over $10 this car had some options my tao5 didn't have. I like the extra parts that are included to change rear toe, caster, etc. The only drawback to this is it can only use stick packs or saddle. I hate saddle packs. I prefer side by side.
Icon_GTR
09-15-2006, 08:17 AM
I got my sprint 2 :D
Man, what a difference going from a TA03-F to this! :eek:
Can't wait to get a better motor now.
SprinT2
09-26-2006, 09:15 PM
[B] hey guys, i just bought a Sprint 2 an its a pritty good car for being a beginners car liek it says lol, but what should u upgrade first? any ideas would help.....
SprinT2
09-26-2006, 09:26 PM
And btw, im not new to this r\c juss gettin back into it again after 4 years of racing thanx lemme know your ideas
kev
guver
09-28-2006, 08:32 PM
Not sure about upgrades for the 2 , but if it's any like the sprint then it's great deal. It may not be real competative if racing. I just converted mine from 8 cells to 9 cells.
MAcsLR
09-29-2006, 04:53 AM
Hey guys,
I just got the sprint 2 and I'm new to RC cars...I like the whole package but the AM radio…glitches, any recommendations on radios?
One thing...when I switched it on...the front wheels were not straight by default...I had to set the steering trim all the way to the right to get it centered....is this normal or should I adjust it mechanically? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
TunaCan Charlie
09-29-2006, 05:16 AM
Loosen the screw that holds your servo horn (the arm) on and pull the horn off the servo. Turn on your Tx, then your car, and adjust the steering trim on your Tx to straight up and down. The servo will center itself. Now re-install the servo horn straight up and down and put the screw back in. Your steering should be pretty close to center now. :)
MAcsLR
09-29-2006, 05:34 AM
Loosen the screw that holds your servo horn (the arm) on and pull the horn off the servo. Turn on your Tx, then your car, and adjust the steering trim on your Tx to straight up and down. The servo will center itself. Now re-install the servo horn straight up and down and put the screw back in. Your steering should be pretty close to center now. :)
Charlie,
Thanks...I will get this done today. I have another question...I am very new to this and I know I may be asking too many questions....but here goes
After turning it on the throttle works in reverse, so what I did was set the switch form reverse (factory setting) to Normal and turn on the radio....the car goes in reverse full throttle without me even touching anything....I can't figure out why....any ideas on this...?
TunaCan Charlie
09-29-2006, 05:43 AM
Have you adjusted your throttle trim?
MAcsLR
09-29-2006, 06:30 AM
will go back and check on that and let you know...thanks for the help!
MAcsLR
09-29-2006, 12:27 PM
Charlie,
Thanks for you help...I've got the thtottle and steering issue resolved! Great now I'll go test this baby!
What's the difference between 70/30 throttle (factory default) and 50/50 throttle?
Cheers guys.
Say What?
10-09-2006, 07:10 AM
Charlie,
Thanks...I will get this done today. I have another question...I am very new to this and I know I may be asking too many questions....but here goes
After turning it on the throttle works in reverse, so what I did was set the switch form reverse (factory setting) to Normal and turn on the radio....the car goes in reverse full throttle without me even touching anything....I can't figure out why....any ideas on this...?
The ESC that comes with the sprint automaticall sets itself when u turn the car on, while other often need to actually be set up. To make sure our sprint ESC's set up properly, make sure ur radio is on and antenna fully extended BEFOR u attch the batter to the car.
If it does screw up, unplug the batter and let it sit for 10sec to reset itself.
hope it helps, also before u do do that, put the radio back to what the manual says
Say What?
10-09-2006, 07:19 AM
Hey, what makes the tires wear out on the insides the most? They are all getting a groove worn around just inside of the inside bead area, 1 is even worn thru.
My sprint does not have adjustable camber.
The tyres sometimes touch suspension components such as the skock, adjust steering throw
MAcsLR
10-09-2006, 10:50 PM
Great guys,
I've got it all working fine now.....car is running perfect...still deciding on a good radio....between Futaba and Spectrum now...man not easy.
I like the futaba...cos it's got lots of features and the price I get here is close to what I'd pay for the Spectrum DX3....
I wanted to know what are the hop up' to consider for the Sprint 2? What motor upgrade should I look at...currently it's the LPR version...with AI LPR ESC and GT3 17T motor.
What have you guys upgraded to...? Would love to hear about your mods…
Cheers :D
MAcsLR
10-12-2006, 05:33 AM
Hi All,
I wanted to know if anyone race their HPI Sprint 2? Is it worth upgrading to the graphite components...?
Cheers.
CivicSiR
11-08-2006, 01:01 PM
Hi guys,
I'm new to this site and have just bought a HPI Sprint 2 Stage Drift.Ive been away from R/C cars for almost 17 years and decided to buy the Sprint after a few Thai mates bought Tamiya TA-04/05s.
These new types of cars are a world away from the old Sand Scorchers,Cheetahs and frogs i had when I was younger so I would appreciate any tips on how to get the best from the Sprint.
I will take it for a spin at the track this weekend and let you all know my comments on how it performs etc.
Cheers for now.
sLiTcH
12-01-2006, 03:16 PM
Hey,
I've recently ordered a HPI Sprint 2 RTR. I'm looking forward to receiving it. I used to race on the xxx-s platform but I quit racing and now some of my friends opened an indoor local that they use as a drifting track. So I ordered a Sprint2.
I noticed that the design is very much like the Sport2 and even Pro 2.
As far as part compatibility, I would like to know if you guys, sprint 1/2/drift owners have tried to test the compatibility between various parts from Sport2 or Pro2 on a Sprint.
I plan on testing lots of pro2 parts.
As far as aftermarket goes, I haven't had time to check out what was available. Carbon chassis ? TI turnbuckles ? Spool ? etc. etc.
guver
12-01-2006, 06:12 PM
Not sure about upgrades for the 2 , but if it's any like the sprint then it's great deal. It may not be real competative if racing. I just converted mine from 8 cells to 9 cells.
I just converted mine from 9 cells to 10 cells. :confused: :roll2: :eek:
Hikari no Tenshi
12-04-2006, 11:16 PM
I've got the graphite chassis components and the universals and a front one way and rear ball diff. If I could figure out a decent swaybar setup, I think i'd be ready for a couple of races.
sLiTcH
12-05-2006, 11:41 AM
hey where did you get the graphite components ?
Hikari no Tenshi
12-05-2006, 08:43 PM
I bought mine from omnimodels on ebay.
medic7012
12-22-2006, 10:05 AM
Has anyone seen or made a heat sink for the motor for the 2. I was trying to figure out a wat to do it but the motor is kind of tight where it is mounted. Thanks!!
Phil3842
12-23-2006, 09:58 PM
i wanna upgrade the esc and wanna keep the stock radio gear. could you please reccomend a decent one to buy
Phil3842
12-23-2006, 10:11 PM
gpm make a heatsink.
http://www.gpmracing.us/index.cgi?partnumber=GP0907&c=206
BillH
12-24-2006, 03:18 PM
What is the stock speed of the sprint 2? I am thinking about getting a few friends into rc and racing each other. I have a rally with a 17t and it goes pretty good. I really wish they still made the rally I would buy another 2.
Phil3842
12-24-2006, 05:01 PM
has anyone everhad a prob with the stock lrp speed control and motor. the esc seems 2 heat up a shitload while driving for bout 10 mins. and if it heats up to much can it **** the esc
Neon_Dave
12-24-2006, 05:27 PM
has anyone everhad a prob with the stock lrp speed control and motor. the esc seems 2 heat up a shitload while driving for bout 10 mins. and if it heats up to much can it **** the esc
Unfortunately, yes, you can damage an ESC from excessive heat. It depends how much heat we're talking about.
You may want to consider changing the stock plugs to deans or something equivelant - your heat problem may be caused by resistance.
Also, when was the last time you did maintenance on the motor? Lower efficiency due to wear could also be the cause of the mentioned problems.
Hope this helps...
Dave :wave:
Phil3842
12-24-2006, 05:51 PM
the car is only bout a month or so old. and it heats up so much you can barely touch it.
BillH
12-24-2006, 05:56 PM
Check for anything binding in the drive train. If you run the car enough there could be crud in the motor. Remove it and clean it. Check to be sure your gear mesh is not too tight also.
Phil3842
12-24-2006, 06:02 PM
had the car apart yesterday. cleaned the motor and all da ****. checked all the diffs, regreased. put it all back together. tried it this morning and it works fine for about 2 mins and then when it starts to warm up a little bit if just loses all drive.
what is the ideal setup in pinion and spur gear for drifting
BillH
12-24-2006, 07:54 PM
Are you not running the stock motor and esc?
Phil3842
12-24-2006, 11:23 PM
yeah it is stock motor and esc. i've read that they are pretty dodgy
Hello,I have my sprint 2 drift around to weeks now and it's drifts ok but I want to make a few adjustments.
How do I tighten the diff?
The usual response I get is turn the screw,what screw is this and where is it?
How to I tighten the shocks?
Do you I just twist them?
Thanks all. :confused:
Simon21
04-20-2007, 02:19 PM
gpm make a heatsink.
http://www.gpmracing.us/index.cgi?partnumber=GP0907&c=206
Hello, I'm French and I would like if you have buy this item? Are you sure it is for the sprint 2? So :) rry for my english
Simon21
04-25-2007, 12:36 PM
nobody have bought this item?
MattRX
08-28-2007, 08:41 PM
Hi Guys
I was wondering if anyone has fitted a brushless motor to their sprint and how it holds up?
Thanks heaps
Matt
guver
08-29-2007, 03:07 AM
soon, mine is using 10 cells and a high turn motor. It is pretty wornout and I will put the fastest mamba motor for 10 cells in it. 5700 or 6900.
MattRX
08-29-2007, 09:17 PM
Hi Guver
I am thinking of getting the Sprint 2 to replace my TT-01.
I have a Mamba 5700 in the TT-01 and it has way more power than the chassis can handle running with a Trackpower LiPo. I also have a couple of Maxamps 3s5Ah LiPo packs which I have not tried yet as the Trackpower is insane enough. To get anywhere near full throttle I need a large empty car park so I can wind up to full speed over about 50 or more meters. Even then most of the time I feed in full throttle way to fast and it just loops.
Matt
guver
08-29-2007, 09:21 PM
It sounds like the Mamba is for me then as I can floor it 100% of the time right now. I also have a tt-01 that isn't together yet. I'm thinking of the 4600-5700 for the 10 cells. It's pretty heavy, but I don't take lipos "to go" for my on-road running.
cmurray613
09-12-2007, 08:38 PM
I am looking for any help with upgrading my Sprint drift. I read something about locking the rear diff. Is that true or bs? What are some other things I can do as well. Also what is the " one-way front diff "? What does it do? Any help will be great. If anyone can also point me in the right direction for info on drifting. Thank you for your help.
MattRX
09-12-2007, 10:43 PM
I am looking for any help with upgrading my Sprint drift. I read something about locking the rear diff. Is that true or bs? What are some other things I can do as well. Also what is the " one-way front diff "? What does it do? Any help will be great. If anyone can also point me in the right direction for info on drifting. Thank you for your help.
Locking the rear diff will make it a lot more predictable when drifting. I locked the rear diff in my TT-01 by pulling it apart and reassembling with hot melt glue instead of grease. Just make sure it it really full.
A ball diff done up really tight would also work, but I have had a bad experience with a tamiya ball diff and now I stand clear of them. Also I am running a CC brushless and I expect that would destroy a ball diff in short order.
A one way is a diff that is locked under power but is disconnected when free running. The fun in putting one in the front is that you get great acceleration out of corners with a locked front diff under power, but don't suffer the chronic understeer the a real locked front diff creates. Be aware that fitting a one way in the front also means toy have no front brakes!!
I also have a Drift Sprint 2, but I didn't bother to fit the saturn motor. How does it go?
I am running a Mamba Max 5700 with either 2S or 3S lipos and the car is a weapon. The 2S runs great with heaps of power (can wheel spin at will) but the 3S is just crazy and very difficult to drive. Running a 3S yesterday I destroyed two sets of tyres. One exploded and showered down around me. It looked cool, but now I don't have matched sets of slicks.
If anyone is interested in running Lipos they dont really fit. I had to fit additional belt guides to lift the belt over the battery. If anyone is interested I will post some pics.
Matt
4BKT VET
03-08-2008, 09:23 PM
I have 2 problems with my S2.
1) The steering is very sloppy on the drivers side pivot. Is there an aftermarket version available, maybe aluminum? Maybe from a different type car?
2) Drivers side wheel, axle assembly moves in and out excessively since new. I have tried swapping bearings left to right and added the aluminum hubs, still lots of play. No, I haven't curbed the car.
Rufus
03-27-2008, 12:14 PM
I have 2 problems with my S2.
1) The steering is very sloppy on the drivers side pivot. Is there an aftermarket version available, maybe aluminum? Maybe from a different type car?
2) Drivers side wheel, axle assembly moves in and out excessively since new. I have tried swapping bearings left to right and added the aluminum hubs, still lots of play. No, I haven't curbed the car.
I just received mine a couple of days ago... Brand new... and same exact problems! Mine is the RTR, I think in europe they sell a kit version. Maybe the kit version has a different part... will try to download an exploded part list or manual to check the part numbers.
4BKT VET
03-27-2008, 09:53 PM
First I would check the car over, primarily loose wheel nuts. However, I have yet to find better or after market steering parts. I may have to make them, we'll see. The big problem with it is if you try to compensate the alignment by pulling back on the fronts when you make adjustments, it wont be correct because it will pull one way under power, then when you get off the throttle, it will pull the other way.
Dragonfish
07-03-2008, 03:22 PM
This thread has been dormant for a while, but I just got a used HPI Sprint 2 and I have a lot of slop in the steering. Anyone ever figure out how to tighten it up? Also, three of the four wheels have a slight wobble, is that normal? I'm coming from RC Helis so I'm used to chasing all vibrations and wobbles.
Rufus
07-03-2008, 03:39 PM
the steering problem seems to be because there is some slop between one of the steering bearings (there are two) and the plastic part where it is supposed to fit snuggly into. I got rid of it (some 80%) by putting a small piece of napkin inside so that the bearing fits snuggly. You could try finding a larger bearing but we're talking about adding less than a mm to the overall diameter.
2 months counting and its working so far...
Dragonfish
07-03-2008, 03:58 PM
Thanks man, I'll try that tonight!
Dragonfish
07-03-2008, 04:03 PM
Are any other cars parts compatible like the RS3/RS4?
MattRX
08-07-2008, 01:48 AM
This thread has been dormant for a while, but I just got a used HPI Sprint 2 and I have a lot of slop in the steering. Anyone ever figure out how to tighten it up? Also, three of the four wheels have a slight wobble, is that normal? I'm coming from RC Helis so I'm used to chasing all vibrations and wobbles.
Hi Dragonfish
I have removed a majority of the slop from mine by replacing all the HPI ball links with Kyosho ball links. The other mod I have done is drill out the uprights and fit a sleeved 6x3x3 ball bearing where the sloppy brass bush is. This should have made the uprights quite weak but I have had some high speed crashes and nothing broke.
I still need to replace the stupid steering arms as they induce heaps of slop. I have some Traxxas Rustler arms that look like they will fit, but I have not actually tried yet.
CYA
Matt
MattRX
08-07-2008, 01:52 AM
2) Drivers side wheel, axle assembly moves in and out excessively since new. I have tried swapping bearings left to right and added the aluminum hubs, still lots of play. No, I haven't curbed the car.
I use these
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ88&P=ML
And you haven't curbed the car? really? Come on we all have once or twice!
Matt
bchymas
10-10-2008, 07:36 PM
Eventually, I'd like to get a relatively cheap 4wd 1/10 scale touring car. I've been thinking about a TT-01 or a Sprint 2. I actually owned a Sprint 2 very briefly (I bought one used to re-sell and I only used it once) and I was very impressed with it's build quality, etc. Although the belt drive system was very nifty, it made me nervous which is why I'm leaning toward the TT-01. I've also been impressed with the incredible array of hop-ups available for the TT-01. Regarding the Sprint 2, how long do those drive belts usually last? Considering the two cars, how does a bevel gear differential compare to a planetary diff? What are the ups and downs of each? Which car should I get? I'm willing to sacrifice performance for durability and longevity. Any input would be appreciated.
MattRX
10-12-2008, 06:06 PM
Hi bchymas
I have both and can say that both cars suffer from being cheap.
The Sprint is great if you replace every ball joint (I used Kyosho) and modify the front hub carrier piviots. I have a very tight car. The big hassle with belt drive is that small rocks occasionally manage to get caught between a belt and a gear. When this happens a belt will die and possibly a gear with it. I have been lucky and only have replaced one belt. I tape up the bottom plate with duct tape so that there is less chance of rocks getting in. Even with a taped bottom plate I still empty out the debris after every run and am always amazed how much stuff falls out. The sprint handles power well. I have a CC mamba max 5700 in mine with 3S lipos. Apart from a serious traction problem the car tracks well as all forces due to accelerating drive line components run from front to back.
Ok the TT01. The TT01 is an absolute POS, but after saying that I love it. A TT01 is almost indestructable. Every steering linkage is sloppy. Every suspension linkage is sloppy. But best of all it is pointless trying to fix this because the axels are undersize and slop around in the bearings. This all adds up to a car with very sloppy suspension. After saying that it does not handle as bad as you might expect. The one real issue that made me buy the sprint was the drive shaft. If you fit a high power motor with a bad ass battery the TT01 shows its flaws. The first mod you have to do with any power increase is replace the drive shaft as the plastic shaft buckles easily. The replacement alloy version is heavy, so what you say. Well punch the throttle, the wheels spin the heavy alloy drive shaft rotation is accelerated which causes the chassis to want to rotate in the opposite direction. Basically if my memory is still working the end result is under serious acceleration the two right side wheels lift of the ground and the car will instantly spin. For this to happen you need serious power. I was running a Novak GTB wit a 3.3R motor on 3S lipos (Not recommended by Novak).
The only thing to be careful of with the TT01 is gear mesh. The method Tamiya use is a little dodgy, and with mine I had to pull the motor tight towards the spur gear when I tightened up the motor mount screws. I have not stripped a spur gear yet.
After all that, if you want a cheap car to bash around with that won't be fitted with stupid levels of power get a TT01. Buy the alloy drive shaft and a ball bearing set and build it with that. If you plan on buying lots of other hop ups you would be better off to save your money and buy a real car. I have seen some TT01s that have every mod part fitted. They now weigh a ton, are not as strong and handle worse than stock. If you found some better shock absorbers for a good price you should also fit them, but suprisingly the horrible things they come with (just springs) work better than you would think.
Hope I helped
Matt
bchymas
10-12-2008, 06:19 PM
Hi bchymas
I have both and can say that both cars suffer from being cheap.
The Sprint is great if you replace every ball joint (I used Kyosho) and modify the front hub carrier piviots. I have a very tight car. The big hassle with belt drive is that small rocks occasionally manage to get caught between a belt and a gear. When this happens a belt will die and possibly a gear with it. I have been lucky and only have replaced one belt. I tape up the bottom plate with duct tape so that there is less chance of rocks getting in. Even with a taped bottom plate I still empty out the debris after every run and am always amazed how much stuff falls out. The sprint handles power well. I have a CC mamba max 5700 in mine with 3S lipos. Apart from a serious traction problem the car tracks well as all forces due to accelerating drive line components run from front to back.
Ok the TT01. The TT01 is an absolute POS, but after saying that I love it. A TT01 is almost indestructable. Every steering linkage is sloppy. Every suspension linkage is sloppy. But best of all it is pointless trying to fix this because the axels are undersize and slop around in the bearings. This all adds up to a car with very sloppy suspension. After saying that it does not handle as bad as you might expect. The one real issue that made me buy the sprint was the drive shaft. If you fit a high power motor with a bad ass battery the TT01 shows its flaws. The first mod you have to do with any power increase is replace the drive shaft as the plastic shaft buckles easily. The replacement alloy version is heavy, so what you say. Well punch the throttle, the wheels spin the heavy alloy drive shaft rotation is accelerated which causes the chassis to want to rotate in the opposite direction. Basically if my memory is still working the end result is under serious acceleration the two right side wheels lift of the ground and the car will instantly spin. For this to happen you need serious power. I was running a Novak GTB wit a 3.3R motor on 3S lipos (Not recommended by Novak).
The only thing to be careful of with the TT01 is gear mesh. The method Tamiya use is a little dodgy, and with mine I had to pull the motor tight towards the spur gear when I tightened up the motor mount screws. I have not stripped a spur gear yet.
After all that, if you want a cheap car to bash around with that won't be fitted with stupid levels of power get a TT01. Buy the alloy drive shaft and a ball bearing set and build it with that. If you plan on buying lots of other hop ups you would be better off to save your money and buy a real car. I have seen some TT01s that have every mod part fitted. They now weigh a ton, are not as strong and handle worse than stock. If you found some better shock absorbers for a good price you should also fit them, but suprisingly the horrible things they come with (just springs) work better than you would think.
Hope I helped
Matt
Wow, thank you for a very frank and honest appraisal of those two cars. Sounds like the TT-01 is the car for me, I like the indestructible part. I'm just looking for something cheap that I can beat up a lot and not feel bad about it. You mentioned there's a lot of slop in the axels because they're too small. Does this cause them to wear out more quickly? Having owned a TT-01, what parts have you had to replace the most? Thanks again.
MattRX
10-12-2008, 06:40 PM
Wow, thank you for a very frank and honest appraisal of those two cars. Sounds like the TT-01 is the car for me, I like the indestructible part. I'm just looking for something cheap that I can beat up a lot and not feel bad about it. You mentioned there's a lot of slop in the axels because they're too small. Does this cause them to wear out more quickly? Having owned a TT-01, what parts have you had to replace the most? Thanks again.
Hi bchymas
The slop in the axels is not a real problem. It just makes for sloppy steering. The only parts I have replaced are the drive shaft (upgraded to alloy), the shock absorbers (the kit I bought had no damping) and wheels and tyres. I think there is a TT01 kit with oil filled dampers, that would be worth buying.
Otherwise as I said it is almost indestructible. The only other thing I have changed is the rear diff. I cleaned out all the grease and replaced it with hot melt glue. The end result is a locked diff for much better drift action.
Enjoy
Matt
tedb43o2o3
12-11-2008, 05:14 AM
can the stock sprint-2 sport handle the VXL brushless with 11.1 lipo battery??
Ihaveaxrayt2r
12-11-2008, 10:18 AM
yes i have one also
nothing over 6400kv tho
tedb43o2o3
12-11-2008, 03:06 PM
any suggestion on the lipo battery? 2 cells is enough for VXL brushless or 3 cells? I dont know can the sprint-2 fit the 3 cells lipo battery in tho, the space is kinda tiny.
Ihaveaxrayt2r
12-11-2008, 03:29 PM
im running a 2 cell 5000mah battery and runs great!!!!
to make the lipos to fit you can ajust the battery holders.
Ihaveaxrayt2r
12-11-2008, 03:31 PM
one more thing always check the rear belts. some times a rock get stuck and makes a cut line in the rear belt.!
tedb43o2o3
12-11-2008, 06:42 PM
thanks a lot for the information~
Ihaveaxrayt2r
12-11-2008, 06:50 PM
No prob
Pm if if you need help?
tedb43o2o3
12-12-2008, 03:50 AM
so you suggest that 2 cells is enough for hpi?
Ihaveaxrayt2r
12-12-2008, 11:15 AM
Yes, I think a three cell it to much power for the rear belt.
tedb43o2o3
12-18-2008, 01:34 AM
hmm, do I need the cooling fan for the brushless system? if I put a 3 cells lipo on it?
Ihaveaxrayt2r
12-18-2008, 08:51 AM
Depends on the gearing. If it is getting hot you need to go down on the gearing. but if the esc is getting hot you can use the esc fan.
You don't need to!
And 3 cells good luck going 60+ is going to be fun!! ;)
Killerush
12-18-2008, 08:19 PM
I have a Sprint 2 with a Novak Sport brushless system and the HPI carbon fiber chassis. Running matched 4200mah 6 cells it easily approached 50 mph(47 to be exact with mild gearing), so a 2S lipo should get you the speed you want without destroying your belts or diffs.
Ihaveaxrayt2r
12-18-2008, 08:40 PM
As long as you run the car on smooth sarfice then you are fine. Just hate those rocks!!! :(
tedb43o2o3
01-06-2009, 08:19 AM
Whats the different between Sprint-2 and E-10? which one is better for brushless? I know E-10 is cheaper so might be crappier....
jchung
05-04-2009, 07:21 PM
Anyone know if the parts for the Sprint works on the RS4 Pro2?
leaded
10-03-2009, 02:15 AM
Whats others experience? Did removed all "Tamiya" power connections on battery > esc, and put on deans, this maked the car much quicker..
Is this one of the best/quickest speed tuneup to do?
Sprint/3900kv BL/60A esc/turnbuckles/Custom body,etc.:cool:
Killerush
10-03-2009, 07:04 AM
Tamiya connectors are known to melt so that's a smart upgrade. My Sprint is all carbon fiber now with a Novak brushless, full titanium turnbuckles and RPM ball ends. It took all of the slop out of the car and it handles great.
leaded
10-03-2009, 08:19 AM
I used unknown brand turnbuckles and balls from a kyosho or traxxas,got it from a friend, and get rid of the sloop too.
Only trouble with the car is a extra servo quite in the rear of chassie, for lowering/raising of height, who give less traction on front. This seems to need another placement........ but with right tires, and flat track, it raises front.....:D
I also found higher temp on the electrics with Tamiya connectors, get rid of them!
DavidAvid
10-27-2009, 01:33 PM
I have a sprint one! **** still going strong dual belt driven not that bad
on a 12 turn modified and some upgrades all black r32 nissan 7 spoke black wheels hpi dicontinued them long ago and yeah its pretty good for drift!
DavidAvid
10-27-2009, 01:37 PM
the E 10 is shaft driven so its not as smooth and it is crapier. but not that crapy it is the same as my associated tc3
The E10 has some problems with the bushing design on the shaft. You absolutely have to put bearings on the shaft if you're going to run anything but a silver can.
whiteman
12-25-2009, 03:04 AM
can stock motiv stock use 3s with 5700? what is the different between trackpower lipo and others?
Glocked2
02-28-2010, 09:57 AM
I have a Sprint 2 Flux w/ stock Motiv Speed Control and 5700kv motor. I've only run it a few times prior to getting snow and noticed that the steering is really difficult to "balance/trim". Seems to have alot of slop in steering. Is there any way to fix this through HPI parts or aftermarket kit? Also, can the Motiv / 5700kv handle 7 cell NiMh batts? I know you can't get a 7 cell in Sprint 2 but what if I took power system out and say, put it in a Slash for off road racing?
As far as the steering goes, if you are looking at the car from the back on the right front of the steering assembly there is a spring with a round, purple nut that needs to be tightened once in a while.
Glocked2
03-01-2010, 01:36 PM
Great, Thanks. I'll look at it tonight when I get home and see if it is in spec. When I drove it indoors last time (going slow) I couldn't seem to trim-it-out and it just seemed to wander all over......not exactly what I would expect from a on-road costing $300.00
Ihaveaxrayt2r
03-01-2010, 03:33 PM
It also can be the fact of it not having a powerful servo...
Hitec has some great servo's for cheap.
I would recomend the mg650 I believe that's what it is called.
Its price is around 35.99. Great servo, speed and turqe.
newdriftking
08-26-2010, 05:36 PM
Hi guys, I'm having some issues with my Sprint 2, when I put a fully charged battery in and power it up, I can hear a whirring noise, but nothing from the motor. I have a Nosram Tornado 17x2, with Nosram Hawk Power Reverse ESC and the standard HPI servo.
There is no movement from the car what so ever, if you manually move the Spur Gear the motor eventually starts to turn.
Any help with this would be great.
lipodrift
10-11-2010, 10:41 PM
whats up guys, an gals? lol
anyways, i have a sprint, with plane old 3300 pack, novak electra esc, an tony nissenger 12t motor. for drifting. but switching out the battery to a 7.4V 4200mAh 30C 2S LiPo, what kinda run time am I looking at?
lipo is like a whole new world for me....
any an all help is a +, thanks:wave:
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