GS Vision Pro Forum

[KawadaKid]

no, i didnt need to space anything, it only rubbed slightly, not enough to effect anything.

[jfc_tech]

Originally posted by KawadaKid
no, i didnt need to space anything, it only rubbed slightly, not enough to effect anything.

hmm, interesting...maybe the u-joint shaft.mine maybe shorter. i don't know...confused.
Anyway, do u still use the ball cup for yer camber link? it easily came off whenever there's a hit. please advice...if got picture much better. thanks.

[KawadaKid]

ive got GS captured ball ends on my car. they hold on with a screw instead of just a cup.

ITs kinda hard to see, but heres a pic of my car...

http://community.webshots.com/photo/76213662/76214804nPNqrd

im using these...

http://www.gsracing.com.tw/getdata.php?id=GS-900001BL

thats part number GS-900001BL

Steven S.

[jfc_tech]

Originally posted by KawadaKid
ive got GS captured ball ends on my car. they hold on with a screw instead of just a cup.

ITs kinda hard to see, but heres a pic of my car...

http://community.webshots.com/photo/76213662/76214804nPNqrd

im using these...

http://www.gsracing.com.tw/getdata.php?id=GS-900001BL

thats part number GS-900001BL

Steven S.

How long is yer pressure hose? its like at least 2 feet long??? Is that GS engine?

[KawadaKid]

im not sure, i went back to my short hose after about a week. I noticed no difference. That was my mugen engine from 2 years ago. Since then i ran the GSV12 and now im running an OS TR. The GS engine ripped and ran very reliable. My OS TR is an awsome engine aswell. highly recomended.

[rcabj]

hi again....

1. the stock manifold had a good clearance not touching the middle belt. since i change to a new manifold with bigger diameter for powerband purpose it touches/rubbing the belting...it really annoys me...anyone have the same problem..any ideas of solving this...

2. anyone here can recommend a good and durable univesaal shaft to replace the stock which i think can break easily...

for now i'm using the dog bone ... cause all my uni has broken.

or any other suggestion..thank...

my email is..rcabj@hotmail.com

[rcabj]

why..nobody owns gs anymore??

[darkangel]

Still here, just on a hiatus from racing. I think that is what everyone is doing right now. Others might be trying other cars out. Me, I'll try sticking with the car, still trying to figure out the suspension. Racing doesn't start again until the end of March. Haven't heard from Kawadakid lately either.

[crackerjack]

Wind chill of -11 = too cold to race!

[KawadaKid]

yeah, theres like...snow...on the ground and stuff. Still working on my Vision though. Gotta get it ready for the summer, even if im a bit ahead of schedule. I plan on equiping my car with some of the new GS parts that are now available on Horizon Hobby's web site. Pulleys, chassis braces and shock towers. If you guys have any questions feel free to email me or IM me anytime.

Steven S.

[rcabj]

for me here racing through out the year....if budget allows

hehe...peace

[Dava]

Garen,

Did you know if GS is preparing a new version of the vision?

[rcabj]

would be interesting.....since all other major brands has come up with improvement...

4 me at least like to see...

1. gs rear knuckle improve(rubbing agains tyres esp. 30mm rear)
2. laid down steering servo system
3. 2 speed clutch type
4. rear tie rod connented to rear bulkhead(now it is connected to rear shock tower plate)
5. adjustment whatever necessary to except 'lola' stlye bodies...
(rear floating towers and front bumper plate)

...tq..

[clizoman05]

im still having problems with my Gs vision clutch, wont engage till 1/2 throttle at any play setting

[garen]

loosen the spring nut a turn

[sirio12]

Hi guys

A couple of questions regarding the Vision Pro clutch.

With the standard clutch, regardless of what spring you use I can't get it to engage late enough, I can screw the adjuster nut down, but then the clutch slips where the spring goes spring bound, and I'm running 0.5mm gap between the pad and bell housing, nothing seems to make a difference. Anyone else have trouble with this???

Also does anyone use the Fioroni clutch, or even the Fioroni flywheel for the standard clutch???

[KawadaKid]

Its Probably Shimmed wrong. I had the same problem.

The Fioroni Clutch is excelent and the Aluminum pad is really nice too.

I can send u instructions on how to shim the clutch if u want to Email me or Instant Message me, feel free.

My AIM is Noodle Stew32


Steven S.

[darkangel]

does anyone have the overdrive charts made up for the vision?

[rc_king1]

I have noticed that many people when running a one-way front diff use a heavy rear diff oil. Can someone please explain to me the reasoning for this?

I am asking this because I just picked up a front one-way and I'm going to start working on a new set-up.

Another question is this; is anyone running a 30 mm wide rear foam tire on their cars or should I just stick with 24 mm foams?

One last question. What's a good set-up for a med. sized track? The surface is blown off and soda is used for traction. The course is real technical (lots of tight turns) and the straights including the sweepers is probably 90 ft long total. Thanks again.

[KawadaKid]

RC King, YGM.:p

[darkangel]

I just put my one-way in my car. As far as rear diff oil, I'm going to start off with 5000 weight diff oil and then go from there.

Be carefull with placing the pulley on the one-way, I had to grind some material (not much) off the pulley mount to keep the pulley from feeling like an oval (as opposed to a circle). Really not a big deal. Garen had told me that only a few of the one-ways had this problem when he was testing them.

As far as set-up goes, start with base set-up and go from there. You might not need the second gear for that size of straight-away. We have a similar sized track in Denver, and what we do is gear the first gear for the entire track and make sure that the second gear never engages. Or you could try and get the second gear to hit really early as compared to some of the bigger tracks. I normally race on a medium sized track, 175 ft x 90 ft.

[nitrothugg]

hey guys,

haven't been in this thread in a while. anyway, ran my vp with my new sirio .12 5 port after a 6 month break. spent most of my time breaking it in but my car was dialed! (is that how you guys say it?) :) it helped that i broke the car down and fixed all the tweaks in the suspension. i mean it tracked straight during accelaration and hard braking. 2 speed was hooking up.

so i'm about to order some replacement parts and was wondering about getting the other clutch bell sizes. my question is, does any combination work together? i mean, would the mesh not fit if i were to use the biggest and the smallest gears?

[KawadaKid]

i run a 1 tooth difference and havent had a problem, but im not sure if u go any more.

[nitrothugg]

besides changing all of the phillips screws into hex on the kit. a mod i did because of my unwarranted concern of the set screw working its way out on from the hinge pins - i installed two titanium hinge pins from a t-maxx kit into the 2 front bottoms.

they are an 1/8th inch longer so i used fuel tubing to space it out with the e-clips. the diameter is a "tad" bigger too but they fit in mine okay because i previously bored out the holes with a slightly smaller drill bit to cure binding i had in my up and down travel from before.

i haven't tried it yet but if it seems okay, i'll do the tops too. i just never was a fan of the set screw in plastic to hold the pins in place. maybe i'm paranoid.

[KawadaKid]

Im working on titanium hinge pins for my car aswell. Other than that, i lowered my throttle servo, drilled new holes on the hubs for mor ackerman adjustment and im working on a one way lay shaft pulley.

[rcabj]

hi guys....seems quiet on the gs vision everywhere i think....

aren't gs planning to upgrade the vision or maybe a total new look....??

[KawadaKid]

Look for some new stuff soon. Theres a "Pro team" kit that will be soon available and maybe some updates. Garen might be able to give more detail.

[PaulH]

The course I race at has long straights and sweeping turns. As such, I would like to try out a solid rear axle. Garen told me how to lock the rear differential, but I would like to reduce the rotational mass. The Vision Pro and the older Mugen MTX-2 appear to be almost identical in many ways. Is the Mugen MTX-2 rear differential the same size, as measured from bearing to bearing, as the one used in the Vision Pro?

If so, the Fioroni Ergal solid rear axle for the MTX-2 is a good deal at $20. The pulley is not included, so I would be able to attach the Vision rear pulley without too much trouble.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!

--
Paul

[darkangel]

PaulH,

I have thought the same thing when I was looking at the negative diffs, but the spacing between the bearings are the least of the problems. I believe, although I could be wrong, that the diff pulley for the mtx and vision are at two different places. At $20 it may still be worth a try. Let us know how it goes.

[PaulH]

PaulH,

I have thought the same thing when I was looking at the negative diffs, but the spacing between the bearings are the least of the problems. I believe, although I could be wrong, that the diff pulley for the mtx and vision are at two different places. At $20 it may still be worth a try. Let us know how it goes.

Okay, that's good to know. I was able to get my hands on a copy of the MTX-2 instruction manual. It doesn't give any measurements, but it does give a good feel as to the proportion and location of the various parts. The MTX-3, on the other hand, is quite different. I doubt that there is any way MTX-3 parts would work on the Vision Pro.

From what I can see on the MTX-2 manual, the entire back-end is virtually identical between the Mugen and the GS. The rear pulley mounts on the same (right) side of the car, because the power comes from a pulley mounted to a brake adapter on the two-speed lay shaft.

I was being cheap and didn't want to blow the $20 for nothing, but I guess it's worth a try! :D

--
Paul

[PaulH]

does anyone have the overdrive charts made up for the vision?

Here's a basic chart. I put this together in Excel, but have pasted it here in plain text for you to use:


First Gear
Pinion Gear 14 | 15 | 16
Spur Gear 49 48 47 46 | 49 48 47 46 | 49 48 47 46
Gear Ratio 3.50 3.43 3.36 3.29 | 3.27 3.20 3.13 3.07 | 3.06 3.00 2.94 2.88
Drive Ratio 7.88 7.71 7.55 7.39 | 7.35 7.20 7.05 6.90 | 6.89 6.75 6.61 6.47
Overdrive Ratio 7.46 7.31 7.16 7.00 | 6.96 6.82 6.68 6.54 | 6.53 6.39 6.26 6.13

Second Gear
Pinion Gear 17 | 18 | 19
Spur Gear 45 44 43 | 45 44 43 | 45 44 43
Gear Ratio 2.65 2.59 2.53 | 2.50 2.44 2.39 | 2.37 2.32 2.26
Drive Ratio 5.96 5.82 5.69 | 5.63 5.50 5.38 | 5.33 5.21 5.09
Overdrive Ratio 5.64 5.52 5.39 | 5.33 5.21 5.09 | 5.05 4.94 4.82



The drive ratio is computed as 24/18 * 27/16 * Gear ratio (front), or 45/20 * Gear Ratio (rear). The result is 2.25 * Gear Ratio.
The overdrive Ratio is computed as 24/19 * 27/16 * Gear ratio for the front, which is 2.13 * Gear ratio. Remember, this affects only the front wheels.
A low Ratio = High speed, low torque. A hi Ratio = Low speed, high torque.

[PaulH]

This past weekend I tried out the GS front one-way and a rear solid axle. I locked the diff as suggested by Garen. I must say that I was very impressed with the performace of the vehicle in this configuration! I was able to dive into the corners much more easily, and maintain my line without any trouble! I had to soften my brake and adjust the braking EPA to a bare minimum to prevent spin-outs. I would like to be able to apply the brake a little harder, so I will be programming an ABS mix on my transmitter for next time.

The only problem that I had was in converting my diff to a solid axle. One of the pins in the outdrive cup tried to cam out the plastic of the diff. There is just enough play in the setup for this to happen. I used some thick CA glue to hold the pin in place for the rest of the day, but that is an imperfect solution, at best. Now, more than ever, I'm thinking of using an MTX-2 solid rear axle in the Vision.

--
Paul

[KawadaKid]

I got to drive my Vision today for the first time this year and wow, its still driving great even after sitting for all winter. I need to go through and put some fresh parts on it and get some new meats thow. Looking forward to another great year of racing with my Vision.

[Vegas Racer]

It's good to see that there is a forum to get information on the Vision Pro from people that are running them at their local tracks. I have raced mine once and have run it in the street a few times breaking in the engine. The Vision was the first kit I have ever put together other than running an RTR the first few months. I have only been in the sport since Sept. and won't give it up now. Hooked. :)

[2furiou5]

HELLO EVERYONE IM NEW TO THE FORUM. I WAS WONDERING IF

SOMEONE COULD SHED SOME LIGHT ON THE SITUATION IM HAVING?

IM NEW TO USING A STARTER BOX AND THE PROBLEM IM HAVING IS

THE STARTER WHEEL STARTS THE ENGINE BUT AS SOON AS I TAKE

IT OFF THE STARTER WHEEL IT STOPS. I WAS WONDERING COULD IT

BE THE CRANKSHAFT IS TO LONG AND I NEED TO CUT IT SOME MORE

OR IS IT THAT I DIDNT SET UP THE CLUTCH UP RIGHT? BY THE WAY

MY CAR IS A VISION PRO PLEASE HELP ME :confused:

[nitrothugg]

no, i seriously doubt that the crank or clutch is the problem. its more of a tuning issue. but i suck at trouble shooting engine problems. post your question here (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=218) and you will get some fast answers. good luck.


p.s.
get rid of the caps lock

[KawadaKid]

Erm.....Glow Plug?

[2furiou5]

its a new engine, new glowplug to

[KawadaKid]

Doesnt mean its perfect. Glow plugs can be fouled very quickly. Make sure your needles are right as well.

[2furiou5]

does anyone have good gear ratio setup for the vision. preferablely for oval
and also for multiple turn tracks ?

[darkangel]

How big of track (Length x Width)? Longest straight-away? Tight or open? What engine? These all come into play when setting up gear ratio. Right now I'm using the stock gearing for a 175 x 90 ft track with a changing infield each race. I'm using a RB X12 engine, which is more of a rev engine, so I gear for more torque to get more speed on the track.

[2furiou5]

im running a mugen mt12, id say the track is about 175x125 ft oval track with banked
turns on all four corners. with the stock gearing what do you think your top speed is?

[darkangel]

I really don't pay too much attention to top speed, because I run on road courses that vary from week to week.

For an oval with banked curves, I wouldn't worry too much about 1st gear as it is meant primarily for acceleration. I would probably go to 18/44 to start off with on the second gear and work the first gear to probably a 3 tooth split. My best advice is to experiment with the gearing to find what is best for your track and your set-up.

[nitrothugg]

i was rebuilding my 2-speed and noticed that i had - and the manual says - to install the finger in the direction to where the "finger" would rub the 2nd gear pin.

i was wondering why that is? why not put it on the direction to where the finger would actually hitch or grab the pin?

i hope you guys understand what i'm saying.

[KawadaKid]

Ive got mine in so that the Adjustment screw is behind the screw to lock it onto the shaft. In that position im pretty sure it grabs the pin.

[nitrothugg]

yeah, thats the way it says to put it in and thats the way i use it and mine works good. i was just wondering why it is not the other way around. oh well, if it broke, dont fix it.

[PaulH]

Just a quick question for Garen:

I tried setting up the rear diff as a solid axle, per your instructions. I found the handling to be absolutely phenominal! Unfortunately, the pin under the bearing next to the pulley rounded out the plastic after a while, causing the right wheel to almost free-wheel. I tried using CA glue to hold it in place, but that only worked for a little while.

Do you know of any other vehicle, such as the Mugen MTX-2, that has a solid axle that could be used in place of the converted Vision diff?

Thanks!

[garen]

paul, send me an email, i'll see what i can do about getting you a solid axle...don't expect any reply for the next couple of weeks though as i will be out of the office.

[PaulH]

paul, send me an email, i'll see what i can do about getting you a solid axle...don't expect any reply for the next couple of weeks though as i will be out of the office.

Sent! Thank you!

[icyunvmyrc]

I just bought a gs vision pro kit off ebay, Ive been doing some research on it and havent found too much of anything except for this forum. Just hoping to keep this thread alive now that Ill be using it more often. I purchased everything seperately off ebay and havent received it all yet but this is my set-up.

Team orion wasp .12 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJZ5&P=7

Team orion pipe/header http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=88000&FVPROFIL=++

Jr xr2 radio and z-270 servos 'all out of my xxx-nt'

I did pretty good as far as waiting for good deals to come along.
I got the kit NIB for $135 shipped
The engine for $76 shipped
The exhaust for $60 shipped

Can anyone hook me up with a site that go's into detail about set-up for this car. I dont have a clue how to tune on-road cars for different tracks. After someone gets to know their car how difficult is it to take a few laps around the track and be able to tell what needs to be changed with the set-up. Im a nascar fan myself and know that those guys can tell when 1/2# of air pressure is changed in one of their tires, I Just cant imagine someone knowing their rc car that well.

[rcabj]

so icuvycius..i assume u r refering to the setup of the kit right..

first i think u should try out what the manual setup says before making adjustments.

as for my current setup is :

-fr toe out 0.5-1.0 deg, camber in 1-2 deg
-rear toe in 2-3 deg, camber in 3-4 deg

shock with stock spring 1000 oil, 2 clicks from stop.
i always place the shock in the middle hole of the shock tower.

front ride height 5 mm , rear ride height 6 mm.

as for tires...depends on track surfaces....and temperature...

but do remember ...setups sometimes is different between drivers... :)

...enjoy then.... ;)

[PaulH]

This forum and the GS Web family of Web sites are about the only resources on the Internet for the Vision Pro. People on this board are very willing to share their setups if you specify the type of track you're racing on.

[darkangel]

Try one of the gs setups with the kit to start off with. If you want, try the stock mugen mtx3 setup, it works preety good on the vision as well. But it all depends on the track as well, size, how tight the curves are, and so on. And more importantly drivers preferance.

Unfortuneately I am moving on to the Mugen Mtx-3 prospec due to no support for gs products in my area :( .

Pretty good deals though. My advice is to take your time with the kit otherwise you won't be happy with the car (personal experience). Make sure everything is nice and smooth.

[icyunvmyrc]

Ya Ill take my time getting it all together. As for the set-up my question really wasnt asked correctly, Ive got it all figured out now though. There isnt much support at my LHS for gs either. Can anyone send me a link to someone who sells fioroni parts at decent prices? All ive seen are sky high prices.
Thanks
Carl

P.S. maybe someone here has used parts for the vision to sell?

[icyunvmyrc]

Just got my Vision in today. Cant wait to start assembling it. I almost greeted the UPS guy with a hug I was so happy. Ill start assembly tonight or tomorrow morning. Anyone have some good information that wasnt shared in the instructions? This is my first kit so im a little worried about it going smoothly but the instructions look pretty straightforward and simple. T
Thanks
Carl

[TuKiBird]

Hi anyone still playing with the vision pro ?
i'm looking for hopup parts for my car coz the shop in singapore that carry gs part went bust so i'm short of some hopup parts can anyone show me to the web site for ordering and shipping it to singapore thanks .... don't want to change car if i cant find any parts think i have to change to a V1rr evo .......

[garen]

Paul- no email received, send another one.

Vision setups/building tips- I'll start working on a Vision building/setting up article (much like the one for the SUT) sometime this week. This should take a couple of weeks to finish, but once it is done, I will post it on the website.

[icyunvmyrc]

That would be cool. So far ive got the front end/bag 2 finished. Im not impressed with the fit of the screws into the plastic peices so far though. My fingers are very sore right now from trying to thread some of the screws. Other than that I havent had any problems. Ill probably have to get the dremel out before its complete.
Ive heard people say that they can fit 30 mm tires on their cars, Im using the stock tires and they even hit the hub a little bit themselves. Is it ok to file down the hub a little bit in a small area or will it decrease durability too much?

[rcabj]

i filed mine or rather grind mine just enough so the tires won't touch them

..just don't file/grind too much ..

i've read somewhere about the new gs team kit..it comes with few hopups including a redesigned rear hub/knuckle...

[rc_king1]

Garen, is there any truth to this? It would be nice to fit 30 mm tires on the rear. I have even tried this with off-set tires, but to make the car 200 mm, when I compress the suspension my dogbone start to bind. Is there a way to fix this problem? Thanks.

[TuKiBird]

can anyone help coz i cant find any info on the net abt the new 2004 vision pro redesigned rear hubs any pics i'm using the the org vision pro kit when it first came out what is the diff between the 2 ?

[rcabj]

i read about it in the "www.gsracing.com" under the products sect.

but doesn't mention where or when it's available....maybe garen could help about this...

[rcabj]

just for information..
.. GQ rear tires(30 mm) has offset and fits perfectly well with the present rear hub...

[garen]

The new Vision Pro Team kits include new rear hubs. These new rear hubs allow 30mm tires to fit with no mods. You can install 30mm tires on the old hubs, you will need to shave off some plastic. Also the new hubs have a slightly different camber link geometry. The part numbers for the new hubs are GS-VS1022A and GS-VS1023A. We do not have stock of the old hubs, so if your shop orders any, they will only get the new ones.
If you are having problems with the rear driveshafts bottoming out when the car is set to 200mm, remove the driveshafts and shave off material from the dogbone end.
I have not tried GQ tires, but if they are offset, they will make the car too wide. I have been using Arrows tires with much success.

[rc_king1]

When purchasing the wide 30 mm tires do I want tires with offset or no offset? What I have noticed is that tires with offset all have a 2 degrees offset. Thanks.

[crackerjack]

That would be cool. So far ive got the front end/bag 2 finished. Im not impressed with the fit of the screws into the plastic peices so far though. My fingers are very sore right now from trying to thread some of the screws. Other than that I havent had any problems. Ill probably have to get the dremel out before its complete.


You should tap the hole before you run the screw in. That's why your fingers hurt.

[TuKiBird]

garen do you ship overseas ? like singapore ? need hopups and spares

Thanks

[nitrothugg]

can someone in the know tell me why horizon has raised the price on ALL of the spare and option parts for the vision?

[garen]

Use 0 mm offset wheels on the Vision.

GS has various distributors in Asia, contact GS Taiwan through www.gsracing.com for info. This (GSUSA) office does not ship to Asia.

[icyunvmyrc]

I just finished building my gs vision a while ago and took it out for break-in. When I start the engine and even on the starter box the clutch engages and the wheels spin. Ive looked through all the manuals and such but Im still not sure how to adjust that. Im sure this is dumb question but I had to ask. Thanks for any help, I would really appreciate it. Im running a wasp.12 if it matters.
Carl

[icyunvmyrc]

Im gonna re-ask that last question since I know more about it now. Ive been working on it for the last 2 hours sraight and still dont have a clue.
For some reason I only got 6 clutch washers in my kit instead of 10. Ive been using 4 between the clutch spring nut and bearings and 1-2 between the bearing adapter and thrust bearings. If I use 2 in that spot the clutch completely engages when I start the engine. If i use one in that spot I have to really hit some high revs to even get the car to roll slowly. Im also unsure if im using the right spring. there was 2 in the kit. I used the heavier one and havent tried the lighter one yet. Does anyone have a clue as to what Im doing wrong?
Carl

[nitrothugg]

i personally use the lighter spring in mine. also (barring a mis-tuned engine) have you tried adjusting the "clutch spring nut"? thats the nut that you turn to adjust the tension on the spring for a later or earlier engagement.

[nitrothugg]

also (if you didnt already know) you can adjust this without taking the whole clutch apart. just use something like a small allen wrench to stick inside the hole in the bell then "catch" the notch on that nut and turn to your desired setting - making sure that you hold the flywheel.

[darkangel]

I was using the softer of the 2 springs included in the kit. Couldn't get the hard spring to stop slipping. What spring tension are you using? The last time I ran mine, it was set at 1 mm from the end of the threaded shaft (the one holding the flywheel and spring collar). I could have gone a little tighter.

You need to have proper clearance between the bell and clutch shoe, otherwise it will do what you are experiencing. To do this, adjust the number of shims between the spring collar and inner bearing. Add one shim, slide on bearing and bell, turn engine shaft towards the sky, does it spin smoothly? Probably not, add another shim, repeat process until the bell spins freely. Now shim the thrust bearing race to your liking. I didn't have any shims on the thrust bearing race, and I believe I have like 4 or 5 shims on the inside of the bell. Hope this helps.

Thank you Garen for teaching me this way of setting centax clutches. :)

[darkangel]

nitrothugg,

I've tried that on the gs before (adjusting from the outside), it was not easy (the collar is pretty tight like everything on the vision). Ended up getting the mugen clutch adjustment tool and took everything off. Easier and much more precise this way.

[garen]

Carl, take the engine out, remove the entire clutch and start over. I assume you have an engine with an SG crank.
If you have a large crankshaft shim slide it over the crank. This is not neccessary, but it helps protect the front bearing. Slide the collet over the crank, followed by the flywheel. Tighten the flyhweel down with the SG shaft locknut. Install the balls in the flywheel. Slide the backplate over the pins of the flywheel, make sure the plate does not bind on the pins. Slide the pad over the pins, make sure it does not bind. Slide the spring cup over the pad. Slide the 1.6mm (stiffer of the 2 springs) spring over the shaft and into the cup. If you race in a parking lot or on the street, use the 1.4mm spring, otherwise use the 1.6mm spring. Tighten the spring nut over the spring. Tighten until the top (flat edge of the cup) is about 11.8mm from the end of the crankshaft. You'll need precision digital calipers to do this. Set the engine aside.
Install the 5x10 bearing in the back of the clutchbell. Assemble the screw, bearing adapter, thrust bearing and 5x8mm bearing, without any of the shims (key number 145). Install the screw assembly into the clutchbell.
Tip the engine on its back, so the the shaft is pointing straight up. Slide the clutchbell assembly as described above, over the shaft and tighten down. With the engine still on its back, spin the bell. Does it rub the pad? It more than likely does. Remove the bell and install 1 #145 washer between the 5x10 bearing and spring nut. Install the bell, tip the engine up and spin the bell again. Does the bell rub the pad? If it does, repeat with 2nd washer. Keep doing this until the bell just spins just barely touching the pad. More than likely you will have installed 3-4 washers.
Now check the end play. Tip the engine up again so that the bell rests against the washers. Pull the bell away from the engine. Does it move about 2-3mm's? More than likely it does. Remove the screw and bearing adapter and install 1 washer. Repeat this process until the bell has about 0.5mm to 1mm of play. Do not remove all the play from the bell.
Once the play is set, remove the scerw and thrust bearing from the bell, apply grease to the bell, and reinstall. Your clutch is now ready.
After break in, check the clutch setting. If the clutch comes on too strong, loosen the spring nut about .5 turns. If the clutch engages too quick and comes on easy, tighten the nut about .5 turns. You can adjust this without removing the bell, but it's almost easier to remove the bell, then tighten.
This is how I set my clutch. Later if you wish to upgrade, Fioroni has an optional flywheel that uses carbon weights instead of balls, and clutch pads in teflon, carbon, and aluminum.

[icyunvmyrc]

Thanks for all the replies to this question, I really appreciate it.
Garen- I just finished all those steps and Ill be trying it out in a couple of minutes. I ended up using 3 shims inside the clutch bell and none on the outside. 1 shim took away all the play from the clutch. Ill be back on soon to tell how it worked. Thanks for the in-depth reply, that was awesome.

[icyunvmyrc]

Still having the same problem, I even tightened the clutch spring nut all the way tight and it didnt even affect the engage point{which is at about 25,000 rpm or so**. So with that in mind what else could it be? I beleive I have everything installed correctly. The clutch bell has about .75 mm of play. Im gonna keep working on it, Im just not sure what to change lol.

[icyunvmyrc]

Problem solved. I changed to the softer spring and it worked. I broke it In on my 2 1/2 car drive way and had a blast even though I didnt get it over 15 mph, then I took it out to my street and found out that the smallest pebble on the road can send the front end 3 inches high so I had to quit. Thanks for all the replies from this, I really appreciate it.
Thanks
Carl

[icyunvmyrc]

Hey everyone I have my Vision for sale now. I havent many chances to run it and Im building an off-road track on my property so its all off-road for me. If anyone is interested look on the classifieds board. I havent even hit second gear in it and it has less than 10 tanks.
Carl

[crackerjack]

Anybody know what's up with Horizon? They seem to be out of an awfully lot of GS parts. Is GS in trouble? :confused:

[garen]

Horizon will start stocking GS product by early August.

[crackerjack]

Thanks Garen.

[Tamiya Man]

I am actually going to pick up a Vision Pro at my LHS on tuesday next week and am wondering...how will i know if it is the older or newer version with revised rear hubs? If i get the older one it wont be a problem to shave of a little material so there is enough clearence...has anyone had problems with the breaks binding up??

thanks

[Oldnitro]

Hi all from Australia
ive been reading this forumn for a while now ,and thought id give you my veiw on the Pro.you guys in the states are lucky to a good supply of hopup parts for the Vision Pro,Ive had mine for 2 years and the only option parts i can get is the front one way which i got about three months ago.
the major problem ive had is the brake disc hitting the carby,i had to raise the motor about 1/8" and shave the underside of the carby.no problems now.also the gearing available is not suited to my home track here in Sydney(the main straight is about 85M long)i use to over rev the motor,the problem was solved by fitting a NEO clutch with 15/19 pinions and using Vision 48/43 spurs
I also made my own aluminium braces as none are available here in Oz.also i need to source heavier springs at i am running the heavest availble and there still toooo soft for my home track which is high speed and 300M long.
With our national titles coming up in Sep/Oct Ill be the only Vision running.
anyway i ll keep an eye on the forum for any tips that might appear

[rc_king1]

Has anyone tried to or is there a way to fit the newer 2-shoe style 2-speed on their car?

Horrizon does not list the new part numbers for the revised rear uprights. Is this part going to be a production run change or is the part number actually going to change?

Lastly, does anyone make light weight/hollow shafts for the car? I would like to try and lighten up the drive train. Thanks in advance.

[Tamiya Man]

also, what ever happened to the sonic cars? I thought GS was supose to produce a Super R with all of the factory options, but i never say it marketed once, and where is the rtr sonic? In the dec 2003 inssue of xtreme rc, the gs racing rtr was an honorable mention, under the mugen mrx 3...meaning that people liked the kit, and even in one of the rcca poles, the sonic rtr was like 3rd choice....not bad considereing all the other 1/8 scale kits...is there a plan for another gs 1/8 scale onroad in the future??

[crashy]

Yeah u guys from da US are lucky. The GS agent here in Singapore went kaput, had to sell my Vision in favour of a V1RR Evo. I love the handling of the vision but wat to do, need a well supported car localy.

[pvs723]

Has anyone tried to or is there a way to fit the newer 2-shoe style 2-speed on their car?

Horrizon does not list the new part numbers for the revised rear uprights. Is this part going to be a production run change or is the part number actually going to change?

Lastly, does anyone make light weight/hollow shafts for the car? I would like to try and lighten up the drive train. Thanks in advance.
Why change the two speed? I run my Vision Pro and like how easy it is to adjust the shift point. I also run 1/8 scales and adjustment is not as easy as the Vision. The rear uprights are a new part number. I have them on order from my supplier, he says they will be in soon

[pvs723]

The part numbers for the new hubs are GS-VS1022A and GS-VS1023A

[pvs723]

Why change the two speed? I run my Vision Pro and like how easy it is to adjust the shift point. I also run 1/8 scales and adjustment is not as easy as the Vision. The rear uprights are a new part...

[darkangel]

why change too a clutch 2speed? because it is smoother and I believe it might be lighter as well.

pvs723, where are you getting parts from? The reason why I went to the Mugen Prospec was because it was near impossible to get the parts I was needing due to Horizon not having them.

[pvs723]

Why change the two speed? I run my Vision Pro and like how easy it is to adjust the shift point. I also run 1/8 scales and adjustment is not as easy as the Vision. The rear uprights are a new part...

[pvs723]

All parts are available from Debbies RC World in Va. beach...www.debbiesrcworld.com. They have supplied me with all stock parts and any upgrades I needed. Eric is the best.

[nitrothugg]

how frequent do you guys break universals on your car? especially up front.

[rcabj]

how frequent do you guys break universals on your car? especially up front.


most of gs owners broke those uni sooner or later....and tend to change them to dogbone....and make sure u tie the dogbone..so no missing parts...
:)

[crackerjack]

I've never broken a universal, and I have taken some pretty hard hits. Actually, I've never broken anyhting during racing, other than a front wheel bearing (whacked the boards really hard...blew the bearing to pieces!).

[PitStops]

HI all,

I recently picked up a Vision Pro in a trade, and have to say I really like the car. I use it for Street drags and it definately keeps the other guys on their toes. I seem to have this thing for picking up cars that are hard to get parts for. So I have a couple of questions for the guys from GS USA. I was told by one of my LHS people that if I need parts I have to order directly from GS as you guys do not deal with Horizon anymore. is this true and are there other ways to order parts through a hobby shop?
second, can you give me some listing of online shops that carry a wide range of replacement/hop up parts for the vision. thrid if I have to deal directly with GS racing what is your parts inventory like as far as the small parts that are always the hardest to find?(the reason I ask this is I also run a G4 pro and it is sitting on a shelf with to racing action due to the fact that I can not get a thrust bearing for the centax clutch.) If I can find a sood support system for the vehicle I am going to buy a second one for myself for track racing and my brother wants the same car after racing mine last weekend. answers to these questions would be greatly appriciated and will help in our purchasing descisions.

Thanks,
Bryan

[nitrothugg]

I've never broken a universal, and I have taken some pretty hard hits. Actually, I've never broken anyhting during racing, other than a front wheel bearing (whacked the boards really hard...blew the bearing to pieces!).

well, i guess i was asking the average "joe blow" drivers who crash every now and then. ;)

in the picture, i circled where they break. they always break on the "claw" part where they grasp the set pin. i've tried to not over extend the steering throw but thats not the culprit. i think its just a weakness in the part.

btw. i broke it most recently when someone jammed my front wheel while i was making a turn.

[nitrothugg]

HI all,

I recently picked up a Vision Pro in a trade, and have to say I really like the car. I use it for Street drags and it definately keeps the other guys on their toes. I seem to have this thing for picking up cars that are hard to get parts for. So I have a couple of questions for the guys from GS USA. I was told by one of my LHS people that if I need parts I have to order directly from GS as you guys do not deal with Horizon anymore. is this true and are there other ways to order parts through a hobby shop?
second, can you give me some listing of online shops that carry a wide range of replacement/hop up parts for the vision. thrid if I have to deal directly with GS racing what is your parts inventory like as far as the small parts that are always the hardest to find?(the reason I ask this is I also run a G4 pro and it is sitting on a shelf with to racing action due to the fact that I can not get a thrust bearing for the centax clutch.) If I can find a sood support system for the vehicle I am going to buy a second one for myself for track racing and my brother wants the same car after racing mine last weekend. answers to these questions would be greatly appriciated and will help in our purchasing descisions.

Thanks,
Bryan


i normally get my parts online through horizon but for over a month the parts that have been out of stock have remained out of stock. you will find with the vision, that it is really durable. i've had it for a 1 1/2 and have only broken 1 lower rear arm (besides the 4 front universals). the thing that gets me about breaking the uni's up front, i have never broken a front suspension arm or steering rods. ALL OF THE PLASTIC AS STAYED INTACT!

about that thrust bearing, you should buy it from another manufacturer. just get the size and do a search around. another company may even have it cheaper.

[PitStops]

cool thanks

Bryan

[Penrith]

Hi, my first post.
I 'm in Australia, but the cars are'nt that common here. Probably due to the original distributer. Has improved now and parts are now cheap with a new importer.
My main reason for posting is we are having a mini Le-mans race in a couple of weeks. 2hr 24 min. Should be a blast.
I have elected not to use my usual Rossi s3. But am using an OSTR12 slightly modded. Not as quick, but very reliable.
The track I race at normally has a 40 metre (approx 44 yrds) This race will have a 70 metre straight. I may have to buy new gearing. Does anyone have any suggestions on a starting point for gearing to suit. Being such a long race, I want to be fairly kind to the engine.
Also what headers clear the middle belt for after market pipes. A problem when I use my RBX12 pipe.

Any help on these points would be most appreciated.

Penrith
Australia :D

[rc_king1]

Is this car still around? No one seems to be talking about it. Wish we could get some more help with it. Seems to be imposibe to get any hop-ups for it. Any help would be great. We just need more local support.

regards
Sean

[PitStops]

The car is still around, most of the parts can be ordered from your lhs if they deal with Horizon Hobby, or order direct from the GS website. I still run one for Tuner drags.

[KawadaKid]

I still run mine, but theres snow on the ground up here. But yeah, as long as your LHS has an account with GS they can get anything you need.

If you need any set-up help or any other questions, just shoot me an Email. LTR,

-Stew

[nitrothugg]

GS finally started selling their parts online. horizon was doing a terrible job. i was so close to selling mine because i thought it was the beginning to the end. now i can hop it up.

[rc_king1]

Nitrothugg

What is the web address where we can order parts online?

Regards

[crackerjack]

I have two Visions for sale. One is a complete car that has hardly been used (it was my back up car). It also comes with a ton of spare parts. The other was my main racing car. It's used, but in good shape. It's fitted with a Kyosho front bumper so that a wedge body will fit correctly. The only thing it needs is an engine mount. Email me at jbecker1@ptd.net for info or pics.

Thanks

Jack

[crackerjack]

Nitrothugg

What is the web address where we can order parts online?

Regards

www.gsracing.com

[nitrothugg]

i tried to download the manual off the website but it does not work on my computer even though i have acrobat. i was wondering if any of you knew where else online i can get it or can one of you email me the file.

[nitrothugg]

nevermind, i fixed my problem.

[nitrothugg]

......

[nitrothugg]

another

[geneh]

Does GS still make the Vision Pro? A local hobby shop offered me a new vision Pro kit for $150. Is that a good deal? Can I still get parts for this car? How does this car compare to a NTC3 Team car?

[nivek]

Hi - I am a total newbie and would like to know if these cars are still arround and being used for compertition.

[nitrothugg]

i would consider getting a new model car. the car was descent 3-4 years ago but now you will have a hard time getting some of the parts and there is no support.

if its just an absolute steal then it will be good for bashing and practice but not for serious competition.

[greenduncan]

Hey all

Just joined this forum hoping someone can help us.

Ive a got a GS VISION PRO 1/10th but no manual & i need to buy the steering rods & servo arm.

Can anyone email me a copy of the manual?

& also anyone know of a good retailer in the UK or in the US who will ship to UK?

Cheers

Dunc
duncan@nashpl.com