Look at that and explain it to me

[sLiTcH]

Hi guys, I saw this many times in RCCA and always asked me this question : Looking at this picture ... http://www.teamlosi.com/Pictures01/Sedan/overchassis.jpg
I always asked me *** is going on with those wires, the guys solder their wires directly to the ESC to he battery packs and motors ??? It might be really long to change packs. Those guys don't use any plugs ?? I know that plugs are offering resistance or something like that but dammit, It might be really long to change packs ...

[TSR6]

What happens, is where the wires go to the battery, there is a battery bar. You de-solder the red / black wire from the battery bar after every run, and hook the battery up to the charger using aligator clips.

When done charging, you re-solder the wires to the battery bars, and take it to the track. Some people, myself included, will only re-peak the pack, seconds before going on the track with the wires from the ESC connected to the battery.

You rarely re-solder the wires to the ESC, usually only when you decide to replace wires.

-Troy

[rccardude85]

I was just looking at the car, and I noticed it's ESC and batteries are top-notch, but it still had treaded tires on it! I guess he hadn't changed the kit tires yet.

[Maverick Racing]

Thats called direct soldering. Deans claims the deans plugs lower resisitance, but, NO.

Direct solder is better anyways, your batteries cant come unplugged if you can solder.

[Jason C]

Unless you are a serious racer, I don't think hard-wiring is hardly worth the effort. By the time you get that iron hot enough, I would have already swapped packs (using Deans plugs) and be back on the track. For me, my skills and electronics aren't good enough to make use of the few milli-ohms I would have saved by hard-wiring.

[jeepinator]

I solder motors directly and solder the batts in my XX4. My other kits I have batt plugs (not butt plugs).
I can do it in roughly the same amount of time you can with plugs. For one you leave the iron hot (duh). For another, I have l33t skillz.
Some people just fear soldering. It's odd to me because it seems so easy. With a hot iron I can get stuff on and/or off in 2 seconds. It takes some people much, much longer. For them, they need to use plugs and spend the extra bucks.
For us people who have skills, soldering is not inconvenient at all. It's not slower either.
You are all just jealous.

[3xs]

most serious racers hardwire anyway it's just better ,and like was said above once you've mastered soldering it takes no longer to hard wire than to use plugs.

[Crazy Canuck]

Ive seen a lot of top end racers use the Trinity/Orion tube-style plugs. I think they're called "Twisted gold", or something. They work really well, you just push them in and they dont pop out.

[RonnieRayGun]

what is a "butt plug?"

[Rustler Dude]

Originally posted by RonnieRayGun
what is a "butt plug?"


:rolleyes:

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Crazy Canuck
Ive seen a lot of top end racers use the Trinity/Orion tube-style plugs. I think they're called "Twisted gold", or something. They work really well, you just push them in and they dont pop out.

Those are known as Corrally-Style connectors.

Originally posted by RonnieRayGun
what is a "butt plug?"

You don't want to know...

-Troy

[KC10Chief]

I just started soldering my packs in. I plug my iron in when I get to the track, and I don't unplug it until it's time to leave! I'm still pretty new at the soldering the battery packs in, but it only takes me a few seconds. Might take a few seconds more than plugging them in, but are you really worried about three seconds of your life? Plus, it's not going to come unplugged! What I do, on each end of the pack, is I take an extra deans bar, put a 90 degree bend in it, and solder one to each end so I can just solder the wires to them. Once you've applied the solder, it's usually enough to where you don't have to add any more. You just press the tip to it, melt it, and let it cool. You don't have to apply any more solder. My wires are cut to a length where I can just press em down and they'll be in the right spot to be soldered on. I'll post some pics. Matt

[TSR6]

The pack isnt soldered in for the picture, but you can see how it's setup.

http://www.shearracing.com/tsr6/xxxs/losi12.jpg

You need to make sure, when having batts mounted to the rear, that you have extra slack in the wire, to mount them forward too.

-Troy

[3xs]

Can't really tell anything from the picture but I get your point only problem with hardwiring is if you run stick packs you can't hardwire them, in this case plugs do well.Since I started running spec class I just put plugs on everything so I can switch back and forth,spec and stock.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by 3xs
Can't really tell anything from the picture but I get your point only problem with hardwiring is if you run stick packs you can't hardwire them, in this case plugs do well.Since I started running spec class I just put plugs on everything so I can switch back and forth,spec and stock.

If you really wanted to, you could hardwire stick packs, but it's best to put them in side by side config. as putting the cells into the battery slots also lowers the CG.

-Troy

[azone]

I've always sort of frowned on hard wiring batteries and speed controls. A deans connector has a ton of surface area and great surface contact. The resistance must be .000001 ohms, in any case probalby the same as the length of wire it's replacing. I would like to see some tests done to objectively measure the current draw of modified motors and 6-cell batteries; I believe it would prove that the resistance offered by a deans plug is irrelavent. A modified motor under accleration can draw a ton of current, but you really wouldn't want it to spike for that very short time period when the max amp draw is happening, that's wasting power in the same way as losing power through the resistance of a deans plug. Most high end speed control have a current limiter just for this reason..

Now if you are sponsered and one of the top racers then sure go ahead and hard wire you packs. Driving skills are so equal things are magnified - and you can always grab another ESC or battery if you need to.

just my .02

[sixandeightstringer]

One of these days I'm going to measure the resistance between a piece of wire and a piece of wire with Deans plugs on it. I sincerely doubt that any difference (if there even is one) would have any effect on the performance of the car, the battery, or otherwise.

With plugs, I never have to worry about being distracted or in a hurry and causing a cold solder joint that may sever during a race.

With plugs, I'm not adding heat to the batteries.

With plugs, I can run at a track or event where there is no electric power available.

With plugs, I can wrap a layer of electrical tape around the ends of batteries to keep them from making contact on my graphite chassis.

Plugs work for me.

[jeepinator]

Good points by all.
Honestly, I like simplicity of plugs. Gaining an infinitesimally small amount of voltage means nothing to me.
But, it has also proven to be cheaper to direct solder. Deans plugs, while mostly worth their cost, are rather expensive, especially if you buy them one at a time (I don't). The hassle of soldering is nearly zero, but I do rely on a hot iron, so that can be a pain in rare cases. I also have an extremely hot and fast heating gas powered iron for the track, so the power is not an issue (unless I run out of gas :))

I only use direct solder on my XX4, due primarily to the layout. It is just cleaner and simpler.

Why did I just babble for this entire post? None of you give a flying monkey terd/turd anyway.

[leeasam]

I have done both and now do the deans ultras on the batts and hard wire the motor. Alot of people don`t realize that after hardwireing and soldering on and off several times you WILL haveMORE resistance than a plug as solder will build up and solder is not as good a conductor as the wire. the solder also breaks down and oxidizes with repeated soldering. I am willing to bet the pros use NEW wires on their ESCs every race event.I really believe that more than anything that is the reason for user replacable wires. Remeber when using plugs to also keep your wires as short as posibble like hard wiring. you WILL need to do a very good job on soldering the plugs or it will really be for nought. As for coming un plugged?? If your leads are short enough and out of the way that should not be a problem. If it is you need to learn to DRIVE. I do hardwire my motors as they don`t come out as often. There are several things that will make a bigger difference than HW vs plugs. Like a well tuned motor- quality batts CHARGED and disharged properly. And oh ya when building pack NEVER tin the batt first. The copper bar should be right against the batt with the solder only holding the bar down in place. That will make way more difference than HW vs plugs

[leeasam]

Oh ya leaving a soldering iron on all the time will ruin tip FAST. If ya have a good iron it only takes about 60seconds or less to get up to temp. Just remember to turn on as you are getting ready to do your thing.

[jeepinator]

I can identify a few issue with your posts...
If I may :D

As a person who has actually taken a soldering class (yes, I know it sounds silly, but I was in the US Navy), I can tell you that your theories on solder degredation have barely any merrit.
Assuming you are using solder iwth flux, and assuming you are doing the job properly, the problems you describe with reheating will not occur. Solder does not "build up" if heated properly. Solder does not corode, nor does it cause corrosion (acid core solder aside).
Finally, only soldering tips of the lowest quality, and not plated, will degrade over time if left hot. I have quite literally left an iron on for WEEKS without issue. A simple wipe on a damp cloth cleans it right up.

... Just want to get the facts straight here.

[3xs]

I have to agree with you on those points jeeper,I left a iron on for a three day race once and it never bothered the tip,and I've heard from one of the pro's that they do in fact change ESC wires practically every race I'm thinking joel johnson but anyway he said it is like changing spark plug wires in a winston cup car one race and their done for.

[TSR6]

I've run the same wires for a year now, and im finally looking at changing them within the next 2 weeks.

-Troy

[3xs]

I would think that only the top notch drivers could even tell any difference in new ESC wires,but if I change my wires after say a year I can feel a bit more punch,but it may just be my imagination,kinda like I think my real car drives better after I wash it.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by 3xs
I would think that only the top notch drivers could even tell any difference in new ESC wires,but if I change my wires after say a year I can feel a bit more punch,but it may just be my imagination,kinda like I think my real car drives better after I wash it.

Honestly.. the only reason i want to change, is my wires are getting too ratty. I also found a way to prevent it... i'll post more after i try it in a couple weeks.

-Troy

[synapse75]

i havent used connectors in years..
main reason is, cuz one time the best connectors were lightspeeds..
only advantage to hardwiring over deans, is if the joint is good, it cant come un-done..

its just habit now though.. and you dont have to have wires running off batteries and motors..

its been a while since ive been to a big race.. do the pros use connectors now?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by synapse75
its been a while since ive been to a big race.. do the pros use connectors now?

nope

[synapse75]

jeepinator
thats great info..

if you solder tabs onto the battery, and solder the wires on and off of the tabs it makes it easier and doesnt hurt the battery if you got a pesky one..