HB Lightning RR Forum v1.0

[blemaxx]

Cool thanks I will try some other stuff when I am out of what I have.

[romulus]

I recently saw at the HPI site that they will have an “EZ” start system in this case a Roto start system for the savage. I think that it will work for the Lightning since it uses the same engine and because the saft is a bit offset of the crankshaft it is more likely that it will have enough room to put the saft. I believe is the same system that HB is going to use for the Dirt Demon Monster Truck (I guess that is the name). Too bad that I already have bought a starter box. Anyway here is the information from HPI site:
“Available soon from HPI Racing is our Roto Start system for the Savage monster truck! Now Savage owners can upgrade from pullstart to an easy remote starting system! The HPI Roto Start system replaces the Savage pullstarter with a durable metal gear backplate and a handheld shaft driven starter. Starting is as simple as pressing a button. Requires a 7.2v rechargeable "stick" battery pack and charger. Complete instructions included.Some disassembly of the Savage and engine is required. Roto Start System fits only Nitro Star 21BB or Force .21-.25 engines. Standard stick-type 7.2v battery and charger required”

[romulus]

Here is another picture. By the way, the price is about $55. Not bad considering that is cheaper than a starter box also it is light and easy to carry around.

[romulus]

Here is picture demonstrating the system in a Savage truck

[nitrovortex]

hey lightning lads, whats HB's number again as i need to call em for some missing parts, and whats the part number for the switch cover? thanks

Ed

[Casey]

Hot Bodies' phone # is 909-296-9340

or you can e-mail Alvin at tech@rickysrccar.com

The part # for the switch cover is C8058.

[Casey]

I finally broke-in my Lightning yesterday. Engine popped off right away and the entire break-in process was a breeze. One of the easiest I've ever done.

I was expecting the engine to be a bit of a dog, but it has more oomph than I thought it would. I'll probably keep it in there until it actually needs replacing.

The stock yellow springs are a bit too soft for my liking, though. Maybe the Kyosho or Mugen blues. What are you guys using?

Overall, I'm very impressed with this thing. It is going to be my backup racer(and primary basher) in the event something goes wrong with my Hyper 7 on race day. I'm taking the Lightning out to the track today to see how it handles.

[nitrovortex]

thanks alot man, just mailed him now, any body got any comments on durability of these pro's?

[RokleM]

Casey, yes I believe the stock springs are a little too loose as well. I compensated by adding plenty of pre-load and 45 weight oil. I have tried the Mugen Big Bore Blue's, and they are the exactly right size spring.

-RokleM

[gcjin2007]

im planing to buy the lightning rr rtr very soon, whats upgrades should i get first, where can i find hop up parts for them(factory?), hop up parts like a torsen diff and a 7075 chassis(if the lightning rtr doesnt come with one already) in case i break one. i have a 2.5 t maxx right now and wondering how much more durable or weaker the lightning is. one last question, where can i find the lightning running in the trilordy videos. sry for the long message.

[cbr74]

Instead of buying the RTR and a bunch of hop-ups... I suggest buying the Pro and a good radio. It'll save you money in the long run.

A 2.5 T-Maxx is a radio shack toy compared to the durability of a good 1/8th buggy.

I don't know if the Trilordy guys even have a Lightning.

[Casey]

I took the Lightning to the track today and put it through its paces. Wanted to see just what it could handle. This thing is tough! I was launching it off the track's largest jump and landing about 25-30 away on hard flat ground. I did this repeatedly with no problems until I finally bent a rear shock shaft. Does anyone know what other shafts will work instead of the HB shafts? I'd like to have it ready for the first race of the year next weekend.

[gcjin2007]

does the pro come with a engine? also the engine has a lsn hsn right?

[RokleM]

Yes, it comes with the same 3 needle .21 as the RR.

-RokleM

[geo8498]

Does anyone know if any other wing mount will fit the Lightning? I was just going to order some parts from Tower for my RC10GT, and just broke the wing mount on my Lightning. So I'd like to get a wing mount that Tower would carry to add to the order.

[Juice]

Help me out here guys! I know this is the Lightning forum! But Im undecided between the Lighting Pro or one of the Ofnas---the Hyper7PBS or the 9.5MBX! I know you race your buggies and see these others out there with you. So how do they compare--stock for stock! Honest opinions Now :D

[cbr74]

5 buggies went out for their first visit to the track.... 4 9.5 MBX's and a lone Lightning Pro.

3 of the 4 9.5's broke an a-arm but the fourth managed to stay together, however it had no hope of keeping up with the Lightning.

In its price range, there is no finer buggy than the Lightning Pro, period. End of story.

[Juice]

Thats nice to know about how they hold up! So CBR what motor you have in your lightning? Can the diffs in these cars handle say a RB-WS7! You dont think the Pivot ball suspension is all that great as Ofna says it is?

Im guessing Ofna is such a big name company is why you hear so much and see tons of advertisements in the mags, but really dont see alot about Hot bodies Lightning--Im sure as word gets out, it will be a differant story!

[cbr74]

I'm running a Paris Picco 7 port XP .21. The diffs are holding up just fine so far.

In my experience, pivot ball suspension is not as durable as c-hub.

The Lightning is still a relative new comer to the 1/8th scene. As word gets out of just how excellent a value it is, you'll start seeing more and more of them.

We've now seen Lightning Pro's as low as $310... in terms of features per dollar, that makes the Lightning Pro the single best VALUE in 1/8th scale buggies, period.

Are there higher quality buggies out there? Most certainly. Is there a higher quality buggy out there for $310? Most certainly not.

[Juice]

CBR, since you seem so versed in 1/8 scales! What is the differance between the Hyper7PBS and the 9.5MBX? I know they both have pivot ball susp but other than that what is the big differance between the 7 & 9 series of there buggies? Thanks

*who has them for 310? I have seen 319 but not 310 yet!

[gcjin2007]

thx guys im geting a lightning pro (sticking my tq3 radio from my t maxx in it LOL) where can i find it IN STOCK and under 350?

[Juice]

2007, here you go for 319.00! Click ME (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=37203&clist=0,9323&PHPSESSID=c72874751428fe1981660867fc46b92e)

[gcjin2007]

THX MAN, GONNA GE IT ASAP

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Juice
What is the differance between the Hyper7PBS and the 9.5MBX?


The PBS is better equipped all around. It includes a starter box, Hyper 21 8 port engine, 8 gear diff, not to mention Ofna seems to be leaning a little towards the Hyper 7s over the 9.5s when it comes to hop-ups.

[blemaxx]

anyone know of a screw kit out for the pro? or do I need to make one up? Who has the best selection of screws to buy from?

[cbr74]

Nutty Co. (http://www.nutty.com/) has the best prices I've found, but they mostly sell them by the 100's.


Fastener Express (http://www.fastener-express.com/store.asp) is the only place I've found that carries the elusive 3.5X.6 size. They don't have the exact lengths needed, but you could cut down some longer ones.

I've converted my Lightning almost completely over to socket head screws with the exception of the oddball 3.5's.

In my quest for better hardware, I also found that the Racer's Edge cap head washers make nifty servo mounts.
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Apr/20034133341557226812987.jpg

[blemaxx]

Hey cbr74 would you still have a list of all the screws you ordered?

[cbr74]

I sure don't. Most of the sizes I already had. I keep quite an inventory of hardware and extra parts to keep all my R/C's
running.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by gcjin2007
thx guys im geting a lightning pro (sticking my tq3 radio from my t maxx in it LOL) where can i find it IN STOCK and under 350?

Pottbellys R/C has them for $335 plus shipping :) A couple of guys here ordered one from us :)

Mine is from there

Cbr is right, once word gets out, these will be poping up all over the place, my track alone has 7 or 8 of the lightnings :) and I think 2 more new ones on the way. THere is no better bang for your buck!!

[k_bojar]

For those of you that are still questioning the abilities of the Lightning in the off-road :) Here is the results from my track this weekend:

10 minute A-Main
1st - HB Lightning Pro -- 17/10:29.921
2nd - Mugen -- 16/9:54.252
3rd - Kyosho 7.5 -- 16/10:16.016
4th - Kyosho 6.5 -- 14/8:25.891
5th - GS Storm -- 14/10:30.724
6th - HB Lightning Pro -- 14/10:32.040
7th - Kyosho 7. Sport -- DNS killed plastic spur gear
8th - OFNA -- DNS broke something
9th - HP Lightning Pro - DNS had to leave early

Just goes to show you the car is capable :) We still have other drivers that havent even been out yet this year :)

Here's a link to the track pics :) Just to show what we are running them on: http://www.pottbellysrc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=pb.newoffroad

[NitoIgniter]

I'm thinking about buying the Lightning Pro (still). The great things I read in this thread are the only reason I'm considering the Lightning Pro. Every fiber in me is saying that low upfront cost means poor quality product. I'm very much so split between getting a base MP75 and getting a Lightning Pro.

My radio, however, is a no brainer. I don't want to wait for a clip. I'm going to buy the JR XS3 radio.

I have read a thread or two on this board about the reciever for the JR XS3 radio being too large to fit in the Lightning Pro. Is this the case?

Has anyone tried to put the JR XS3 reciever in the Lightning Pro?

-NI

PS I think the Lightning Pro needs it's own thread in the forum. I mean the RR sounds like complete junk yet all the good info on the Lightning Pro is stuck under the RR thread. (my $0.02)

[cbr74]

I don't think the RTR is junk... people were singing the praises of the Lightning long before the Pro version came along. But much like most RTR buggies, it has some areas where corners were cut to keep cost down. I won't recommend the RTR for the simple reason that the Pro is just such a better value.

To make a Lightning Pro ready to run can be done for as little as $50 for a cheapy 2 channel AM radio. To get a Lightning RTR to Pro status would cost again as much as the buggy itself.

I do think that Hot Bodies deserves to be on the main page with the rest of the manufacturers and not sluffed off into the misc. category. I mean, come on... if Bolink, Corally, CEN, Kawada, Megatech, etc.. warrant being on the main list, surely so does Hot Bodies. Am I wrong?

[Rog]

Couple of questions about the Pro...

Is it partially built? And, did anyone ever verify that 7.5 parts and the Lightning parts are interchangeable? $335 sounds like a great deal. I have an XR Works and want to get a Kanai. But if the Lightning is "basically" the same, I might as well get the Lightning.

Thanks

[cbr74]

The Pro is pre-built and built well. All you need to be ready to go is to install some radio gear, the splash guard, and the fuel lines.

$335 is a great deal, but RcBoyz (http://www.rcboyz.com/) has them for $320.

The 7.5 and the Lightning are NOT identical. They are very similar and some parts do interchange, but not all.
I still don't understand the fascination with wanting to put Kyosho parts on the Lightning. The Pro comes with almost all the hop-ups you could want. Rear CV's being the only big exception.
Hot Bodies replacement parts are less expensive than Kyosho as well.

We all know from experience that it's a good idea to look to a different manufacturer for wings and wheels, but that's about it.

[NitoIgniter]

Rog, some parts from the mp75 fit the Lightning Pro but it is not a knock off exact duplicate by any means. Which parts are interchangeable, I don't know.

I take back the "junk" comment about the RR. Having a hot bodies forum would be nice. If cen has one....

Can anyone comment if the JR XS3 reciever and will fit in the Lightning Pro?

[RokleM]

Got a quick question for any of you guys that are at home or near your 1/8th.

1) Hold both of your back wheels in your hands solid, put the front wheels on the ground, and try to roll the vehicle. Does it roll or are the wheels locked?
2) Do the same for the front (hold front, put back on ground, try to roll).

My problem is... I believe they should be locked hard. But when I reassembled my diffs, both the front and the back roll smoothly.

I put the 7.5 diffs gears in my Lightning (there are NO Lightning diffs available at this point, out of stock everywhere I called) and am testing a few things. They seem to be identical.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Both front and rear roll smoothly and independently of each other. The reason being... the center differential. With one axle held rigid, the center differential allows motion (ie: power) to be transferred to the other axle. Pefectly normal, perfectly healthy.
:D

This is why we tune the diffs with silicone fluid, to control the rate at which power is allowed to transfer front to rear and side to side while under load.

A vehicle with a center spool such as the Ofna Dominator will act as you describe, but a center diff equipped vehicle like the Lightning will not.

[romulus]

I am not near with my HB. (at work) but I think that doing this experiment, the front wheels should be moving with the rear wheels locked and in the air and vice versa. The reason of this is because the center diff. The principle behind the center diffs is in a race condition (on power) when the front wheel lift off from the ground in a jump or for any other reason the diff will transfer the power to ther rear wheels. I haven't verify this yet, but I can see when you hold the rear wheels in the air and roll the front wheels you will see that the diffs is actually moving the clutch bell. Another way of seing this effect when you hold the front one of the front wheel or rear wheel while on power, you will notice that the wheel that is free will acutally spool up faster.

[RokleM]

Cool, thanks guys. I wanted to verify before I ran them. Hopefully these 7.5's work. They weren't too expensive either.

-RokleM

[Juice]

RokleM

What happened to your lightning Diffs! I sure hope you didnt blow them up??

[RokleM]

Actually I did, but I think it's an isolated issue. cbr74 runs a engine with as much power as mine without tearing his up.

When I got my Lightning PRO from HotBodies, they didn't have the diff gasket in them (this paper piece that "seals" the diffs supposedly). I got the gaskets shipped to me and I rebuilt the diffs. Well, apparently it wacked the shimming enough, that my WS7 turned them into mush VERY quickly.

I just got done rebuilding them with the 7.5 internals (like 20 bucks for all 3 diffs) because the Lightning diffs are out of stock, used liquid sealer (same stuff you do engines with, I forget the name) instead of using the paper seals, and will give it a run tonight. The internals look identical to the Lightning ones, but are about $3 or so more expensive per set (3 sets total).

Looks like I bought the last few sets as well ;) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD22&P=7

I tested the diffs before I put them in, and they seem VERY smooth (just as smooth, if not more so that the originals), and don't get much play/movement when I do slight movements of the diff shaft.

I'll let you guys know how it works tonight.

-RokleM

[NitoIgniter]

I might have a Lightning Pro on Thursday. :D

I think this product needs a fan website. :P Tell the world how good it is. Such the underdog. ;)

[cbr74]

Give it time, it'll get the recognition eventually. Nobody gave Ofna a second thought until the Hyper 7 and 9.5 came along.

[RokleM]

Yeah, it just needs time. Everyone that has seen one seems to be impressed. All the local guys at the track were amazed at the price to features ratio.

-RokleM

[Rog]

Thanks for the info guys. It's not so much that I want to put Kyosho parts on the Lightning. I'm just really curious if it's a clone because I want to test the 7.5 to see if I'll like it better than my Mugen XR buggy. I've driven a couple of Kanais but not long enough to really determine all the differences between it and my current buggy. Heck, if the Lightning runs like a 7.5, why would anyone choose the Kyosho over the Lightning. Know what I mean?!

[RokleM]

Well, let's put it this way: I raced a MBX-4XR Works fully hopped up, then raced my brand new (only 5 tanks through) Lightning PRO. Other than the engine difference (OS RZ vs Force .21), I felt little to no difference other than a little less stiffness (Pro springs are a little soft for my taste). Even with my weaker engine, my lap times didn't increase more than a second.

-RokleM

[RokleM]

Well, I ran through the manual and made a count of the screws. I KNOW some of these numbers are off (counted twice and got a few differnet totals, taking the higher number if I was off), but it's a baseline to guess what you're going to need. I think just about every round screw could be converted to a socket head.

Now if I could only find a good spot to get them all without spending $200 ;)

________________________
Round (round cap head)

2x8 9

2.2x5 4
2.5x12 3
2.5x18 1
2.6x5 4

3x6 1
3x8 2
3x12 25
3x15 20
3x16 1
3x19 20

3.5x16 4
3.5x20 6
3.5x41 4

4x8 2
4x12 4
________________________
Flat (Countersunk flat surface)

3x9 6
3x13 3
3x14 2
3x15 9
3x16 4
3x18 12

4x6 4
4x10 3
4x17 12
________________________
Socket Head

3x8 1
3x14 4
3x20 11
3x22 10
4x10 4
________________________


-RokleM

[RokleM]

WooHoo! I put 2 tanks through, first slow to break in the new diffs, and second hammered to the max. Everything seemed to go very well with the 7.5 internals. I have practice on Wednesday, where I will put a good 10 tanks or so through in a very harsh environment (good straights, tons of air, etc). I'll tear them down afterwards to check for wear/tear. Definitely a possible alternative to the Hot Bodies internals.

On a side note, this WS7 is by far the most insane thing I've ever seen. I've messed with a lot of engines, but out of the box, with less than 20 tanks, running at 190, this thing rockets past my 2 speed NTC3. I've got a small fuel leak somewhere I need to find however. Not sure if it's in my tank (unlikely) or on the engine (carb area suspected).

-RokleM

[Juice]

Any way to get us some video action at your track and post it up?? Would love to see it run and any others out there to do the same!:D

[RokleM]

I might be able to arrange that ;) I have footage of Adam Drake and Paul Coleman around here somewhere... I'll see if I can find some of that as well and put it up.

-RokleM

[Juice]

Thats cool, some nice footage of the 1/8 scales going at it! I really want to see the Lightnings run! Still trying to make up my mind on an 1/8 scale buggy:confused:

[blemaxx]

RokleM Thanks for that screw list!! I started to do one myself last night but gave up so I will use yours;)

[romulus]

RokleM,

WooHoo! I put 2 tanks through, first slow to break in the new diffs, and second hammered to the max. Everything seemed to go very well with the 7.5 internals. I have practice on Wednesday, where I will put a good 10 tanks or so through in a very harsh environment (good straights, tons of air, etc). I'll tear them down afterwards to check for wear/tear. Definitely a possible alternative to the Hot Bodies internals.

I am glad that you solve your center diff problems by using the MP7.5 internal gears because I was wondering if mine will have the same problems. So far my diffs are doing ok. Now you can concentrate in beating the competition :D

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Juice
Thats cool, some nice footage of the 1/8 scales going at it! I really want to see the Lightnings run! Still trying to make up my mind on an 1/8 scale buggy:confused:

I'm not sure what you are waiting for???:confused: The thing is well made, well designed, and well worth the money :) But the Pro version and you get all the hop-ups available from HB.

The thing is durable and in the odd chance you bust something, HB parts are significantly cheaper than Kyosho or Mugen

I'm glad I spent the money on mine, I was thinking Kyosho - but why spend 2x-3x the $$ for a Kanaii? and I race mine every weekend

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by k_bojar
For those of you that are still questioning the abilities of the Lightning in the off-road :) Here is the results from my track this weekend:

10 minute A-Main
1st - HB Lightning Pro -- 17/10:29.921
2nd - Mugen -- 16/9:54.252
3rd - Kyosho 7.5 -- 16/10:16.016
4th - Kyosho 6.5 -- 14/8:25.891
5th - GS Storm -- 14/10:30.724
6th - HB Lightning Pro -- 14/10:32.040
7th - Kyosho 7. Sport -- DNS killed plastic spur gear
8th - OFNA -- DNS broke something
9th - HB Lightning Pro - DNS had to leave early

Just goes to show you the car is capable :) We still have other drivers that havent even been out yet this year :)

Here's a link to the track pics :) Just to show what we are running them on: http://www.pottbellysrc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=pb.newoffroad

Actually after looking at the results, the Lightning that finished in 6th (mine :)) missed a lap, so that would move mine to 4th - so 2 Lightnings in the top 5 :D:)

[blemaxx]

Ok so for the screw list posted I got a place that senbt me this reply:
I don't carry anything under 3mm, so I did not include screw under that size
in the price.
for the rest of your screws 3mm and up your price is $20.99 US
and will include everything I put in a pro series kit.
it works out to be 145 screws.
should be a nice kit, when done.
let me know if you are interested.

Jamie
FenDer BenDer R/C
"Your Complete Source for R/C Fasteners"
"Screw the Competition"
www.benderstore.com

Looks good to me just have to fill the ones he didn't have!

[RokleM]

What type of screws is he using? Alloy, stainless, hex, etc?

Seems quite low on the number of screws, but then again, my count could be way off (was just running estimates, mostly was concerned about the size). I just ran through the manual REAL quick to produce that list. I would recommend him consulting the manual if he going to actually package a product for retail.

I came up with 174 screws NOT including the under 3mm size.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Got my rear CV's installed. The left rear inner bearing was a little crunchy... I replaced it and the rest of the axle bearings with some BBB blue rubber seals.

Be sure to keep an eye on those axle cross pin set screws... mine were a little loose. I dabbed some loctite on them when I re-installed them into the CV's.

Now I have full CV's and a 14 tooth clutchbell to test out. If only it'd quit raining. :mad:

[blemaxx]

Well I need to look at the instru. tonight and get an exact count but looks like he has a good price on the screws he sells A2-70 Stainless I also just got 174 from your list I have to call him and see what's up

[cbr74]

Well, they won't rust... BUT.. A2-70 has a tensile strength of 700 compared to 1040 of grade 10.9 and 1220 of grade 12.9 alloy.

Tensile strength for those who might not know.. is the material's resistance to fracture. The higher the number, the stronger the material.

[RokleM]

I had the same issue with the cross pin screws. I hit it with a little loctite as well.

-RokleM

[HBLighting PRO]

when i throttle, my front wheels spin up, but my rear wheels drag. I have no idea what the problem is, and I figured someone would no how to fix this.... Thanks Joe.

[bubbastump]

man i misse out on a lot after they redid this thing
im thinkin of sellin my lightning
not to happy with track
not sure i havent even run it there yet
im not a good enough driver to compete with those 500 dollar motors
mabe i should get this
http://www.rbinnovations.com/

[nitrovortex]

hey guys, im having trouble getting my new engine started,its really tight. it almost started once but it stopped
i dont know what to do, everythings fine though, the glo igniter and plug work, the fuel lines aren't pinched and yes i have primed it.

anyone else had a prob with it?

im using blue thunder 20%BTW

Thanks,
Ed

[RokleM]

Loosen your glow plug up a tiny bit, try to get it started and running, then tighten it back down.

-RokleM

[romulus]

I am assuming that you have the stock engine. I had the same problem at the begining. With your radio off, and the car in a car stand, try manually open a bit more the carb. As soon as it starts its more likely that it will start spining the wheels. then close the carb to make the engine idle. Sometimes you have to try it several time to get the idle right; it might shut down. Also, you can get the idle screw a bit more to let the engine idle faster then lower the idle.

[NitoIgniter]

nitrovortex, you could loosen the glow plug a little bit (like a half a turn). This will make it easier to pull over. After it starts, tighten it down. Also, Try giving it some gas as you pull it. My nitro needs some throttle to start.

I'm going to purchase my Lightning Pro today or tomorrow. I read about people missing gaskets and mounts. What missing parts should I keep my eye out for?

[nitrovortex]

it started when i opened the thottle a little and when i loosened the plug, but when i put it back to idling it dided and now i cant start it again :(

NitroIgnitor: My Pro was missing brake bias adjusters, a servo horn and a switch cover.

[blemaxx]

Originally posted by nitrovortex
it started when i opened the thottle a little and when i loosened the plug, but when i put it back to idling it dided and now i cant start it again :(

NitroIgnitor: My Pro was missing brake bias adjusters, a servo horn and a switch cover.

missing the same

[maury curtis]

I wanted to replace the fuel tubing on my RR with trans. fl. yellow but Horizon lists two sizes small and medium. Not very helpfull....

What size should I get ?

Thanks-
Maury

[cbr74]

Small is for the very tiny airplane engines. Medium is for engines .10-.90 in displacement. Large is for the big airplane engines.

Medium is what you want to get.

[NitoIgniter]

I ordered my Lightning Pro today. I got the last one rcboyz had in stock. :D

I'm making a Lightning Pro site for owners. There is a lot of juicey information in this thread and I plan on collecting as much of it as I can to help others like myself.

You can see the beginings of this Lightning Pro site here:

http://our3boys.com/lightningpro/

I may buy a domain I don't know. This is a great buggy and the world needs more information. I may expand the site later to include information for those thinking about purchasing the Lightning Pro.

Whats the part number for the "Servo Horn" some of you folks were missing?

[Juice]

Great let us know how you like it when you fire her up!!


Also, can the front/rear brake bias be adjusted on these??

[cbr74]

Yes.

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Apr/20034168622274159746915.jpg

[bubbastump]

now for the stupid question
should the front brakes be tighter than rear
like in a real car?

[geo8498]

can those knurled brake adjusters be purchased from any hobby supplier to add to my RTR?

[cbr74]

Bubba... depends on your driving style and preferences. Many choose to bias the rear more than the front so that if/when they come into a corner too hot, they can crank the wheel, grab the brakes, and slide the rear end around. Kinda like drift racing on dirt.

Geo... the knurlies are part of the C8112 parts group. $7.50 retail

[stingray]

Hello All, I'm really having a tough time deciding if this buggy is right for me or not. Here's the deal...I want a 1/8 buggy STRICTLY for bashing around, not racing. Most of my driving will be on grass, dirt, and some on-road around my neighborhood. I'm not really concerned with speed, but rather with power and durability. I want something that can handle some abuse...I'm not talking 20 foot jumps, just small stuff around the neighborhood. Anyways, I've been looking strictly at RTR's. At this point I've narrowed my choices down to the Lightning, the XTM X-Terminator, the Ofna LX Pro, and the HPI Nitro MT(even though it's 1/10 and a little weak in the engine dept). I've read great things about the lightning, but I'm concerned with the ability to obtain replacement parts. This obviously is a buggy that my LHS won't stock parts for. So, in short, I want to know what you guys think. Please give me your opinions on the buggy and if you think that this would suit my needs. Like I said....BASHING ONLY! Thanks in advance.

[geo8498]

stingray...sounds like you might be doing the same type of driving as me. I haven't done any racing yet. I usually just go to the park and run around on the grass and gravel. The Lightning is fun to drive. I do also have an Associated RC10GT, which I enjoy just as much. They have totally different styles. Both are built for racing, but they are very durable. The RC 10 is fun because of it's light weight and tunability. You can set it up to all sorts of driving styles, and simply flies like it's on rails. If you want to do wheelies, then that would be the RC10 department. An alternative to the RC10 would be the Losi XXXNT. Either one means a scrifice of the 4 wheel drive, which sounds like what you are interested in. I've no knowledge of the Nitro MT.

One thing to consider is to get something that your LHS stocks parts for. That's primarily how I made my decisions. The RC 10 is easy to find parts for. I can get an A-arm or hub carrier for it on the spot.

My LHS usually has to order the parts for my Lightning. But then again, I don't need to replace anything on the Lightning nearly as often as I do on the RC10.

Maybe just stock up on wings and wing mounts, as that's what I often break by flipping on grassy knolls at speed. I also replaced the rear shock mount (Ihave a RTR, not the Pro) with a 7075 mount, after considerable abuse to the old one. Otherwise, the buggy is tough.

Things like tires, wheels and bearings are usually common enough for whatever type vehicle you drive. It's the proprietary parts to keep in mind.

For bashing around, you may also want to consider a TMaxx or SportMaxx.

[bubbastump]

yeah what he said
i to have a gt and race it all the time
i plan to race lightning toere r like 5 or 6 at my track
im keeping mine stock for now just gonna upgrade stearing servo
i like the lightning
and as time goes by the parts will be easyier to get
all i broke is rear shock tower and wing and wing mount
and i drive it harder than gt

good luck

[RokleM]

Alright guys... needing some serious advice.

As you know, my stock diff's did not come with the sealing gasket in them. They worked great without the gaskets and the stock engine, the mesh was great, but they leaked oil.

I got the WS7 and the gaskets. When I installed the gaskets, it changed the mesh enough that it toasted my stock diffs, but they didn't leak.

SO I installed the 7.5 diff gears, without the gaskets, with some Permatex silicone sealer, but they are still leaking (almost empty after 10 tanks).

I need some help here. NO ONE knows how to shim the inside of these gears (only outsides), and I don't want to be tearing down my diffs to refill them every 5 tanks. I'm not new to high powered diffs by any means (kept my Maxx diffs running with the super insane XTM 24.7 engine), but I'm at a loss here.

I'm probably going to reassemble them and slap a TON of Permatex on here to make it through the weekends races. Any ideas at this point?

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Have you tried putting a shim under the output gears?

[RokleM]

Unfortunately if you put hardly anything under those, it can lock the pin so it doesn't flow as smoothly.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Then maybe try doubling up the shims on the spiders? Other than that... you could maybe file down the diff case?

I'm tryin hard to help ya here... when I rebuilt mine, I didn't use the gaskets... simply filled them up and bolted them back together. To date... they haven't leaked and haven't failed.

[RokleM]

Those are both good ideas. I think I'll try to put double washers on the shims, and see how that feels. If that doesn't work, I'll file down the case.

-RokleM

[NitoIgniter]

RokleM, thanks for keeping us up-to-date. If my diffs start to leak, I'd like to know how to fix them. I find it interesting that cbr's diffs don't leak at all without a gasket.

stingray, I think you should get the Lightning Pro. From what I've read, the Lightning Pro just does not break. My LHS doesn't stock parts and I'm getting one anyway. The Pro does not come with a radio, but for $45-$50 you can get a futaba AM 2ch. Even at that, you'd pay less for a Pro + radio than you will for an RC10GT (good car though).

My Lightning pro will be here Wednesday (4/23). I should have paid for express shipping. ;) I can't wait to get it!

[RokleM]

I doubled up on the washers in the front and rear, and the diffs seem to feel pretty smooth. It doesn't have much play. I'm going to do the center diff tonight, then run the crap out of them at the races this weekend. It should be very easy for me to see how much liquid has leaked (or not) and how much wear has happened due to the different shimming (amount of metal fragments in the oil).

Yeah, it is a little weird I seem to be the only one having the diff issue. But then again, I put a SERIOUS engine it it, and it really was a NEW kit when a lot of us bought it, so there could be slight variations in the parts, requiring a little more/less working in some circumstances. I'm still 100% happy with the kit. A few minor details like this are trivial when it comes to the quality for the price.

Yes the Lightning is frighteningly strong. I've taken some NASTY wrecks when we were messing around at the track. On Wednesday we cleared off all the 1/10th scalers and had a fun session. Balls to the walls, ruthless, no mercy bumping and running. Had some of my fastest times ever, but we were out of control. I came around one of our corners (was sideways for about 6 feet if that tells you how fast I came into it) and I hit our massive tabletop at a slightly wrong angle. I flew into one of the legs of the drivers stand (only about 4 inches from the track) full bore, bounced back onto the track, and kept going. Not a single piece of damage.

-RokleM

[romulus]

RokleM,
It might sound a bit dump question regarding your diff problem. Are you sure that you took your seal/gasket out from your center diff? When I was tunning my center diff with 10K oil I thought as well that the diff didn't come with seal. But after looking closely the seal was stuck inside the steel spur gear. One way to find out if you have a stuck seal is to look inside the gear an see if it is black, it is so you got the seal inside the gear. Normally you will see that inside the gear is gray (the spur is gray). As for your leaking problem, maybe you got two seals inside your diff. That is assuming that your first rebuilt you got the seal stuck inside the spur and you put another seal. Maybe that is the reason your diff failed on you, no gear action or too much gap in the gear mesh.

The way I sealed my diff, is to put some of the silicone sealant in one of the face of the gasket then carfully place the gasket inside the spur. That will prevent the oil from leaking through the screws. then I put some sealant in the housing then assemble everything tighten the screws in a cross pattern. To be honest, I did not added any shims, but before you start to use the sealant, try assemble everything without the oil to see whether or not adding some shims will affect the meshing of the gears ( I think you already know that). The only bad thing about using my method is that you have to get new seals because the seals might rip apart when you are rebuilding next time the diffs.
By the way I don't think that you should go too much in the sealant. it will oose out and inside your diff ( not good)

[RokleM]

Thanks romulus, but unfortunately that isn't the case. The issues were across the board wtih all 3 diffs.

It's a known issue that a lot of the PRO kits did not come with the gaskets installed in any diff. I know why it happened originally, and I know what I can do to fix it now (couple of good idea by cbr). They are assembling nicely without the sealant, with dual shims, and with the gaskets. Again, I've assembled MANY diffs in my time, these just seem to be a little more troublesome than others.

It's only really weird because most 1/8th guys seem to just throw the gears in there and go. Mine just have been a little more temperamental. None the less, I think we've worked out the solution for mine, and I'll see how it works.

-RokleM

[nitrovortex]

alright guys, ive managed to get it running but ive had to lean it out about 1/2 a turn to keep it going. the reason bieng is that it wouldn't run without the ignitor before.

looking forward for some serious bashing:D

[stingray]

A few questions here...How is the documentation that comes with the Lightning? Has anyone had any first hand experience with Hot Bodies support and how was it? Is it true that most Lightning parts can easily be replaced with Kyosho parts? I read somewhere that HB is a subsidiary of HPI...true? Lastly, I heard that the Lightning engine is almost exact to the savage's .21...true? Sorry for all of the questions. Thanks in advance.

[cbr74]

Manual is pretty good, but no break in recommendations... fine if you're experienced... not good for a newbie.

Alvin, the HB tech guy is pretty good. He's knowledgeable and quick to get you any parts that might be missing.

Much of the drivetrain is Kyosho compatible, the rest is not.

HPI and HotBodies are sister companies... owned by the same person.

Savage and Lightning engine are identical except for the heads.

[hkgasmd]

hi everyone I just received a lightning pro yesterday and tried making it ready today. I have a few questions off the top of my head maybe somebody can answer.

1) How does the buggy drive with it's stock diff setup? (I know the diffs on the pro are already filled but so far nobody on this forum knows the viscosities of each). I've just a beginner in 1/8th scale buggy but I do own a t-maxx and a NTC3.

2) Does the body need to be trimmed some more around the engine head? It looks a little tight to me. I don't want my body to melt.

3) I am missing some parts like everybody else. Alvin seems like a good guy to talk to. Can somebody provide me with his phone number or email address?

4) My droop screws were not installed. Does anybody bother to install these to regulate the height of the buggy?

5) The brake setup on CBR buggy is setup differently than on the HB web site. Which setup is better and why?

6) Finally, what are those parts that look like a curvy doorstops that are loose in the parts bag for?

Thanks everyone, sorry for the list of questions

[geo8498]

I had to trim my body with my dremel to open up the engine hole.

Those little plastic parts in the bag are rear view mirrors for the body; and the clip in there is a clip for a fuel filter.

[geo8498]

Just for everyone's info, the front universals are an exact fit on the rear. I just installed a set on mine last week.

[stingray]

What is the deal with these missing parts? Is there no quality control over there at HB? It seems that they've been shipping them this way for months, you think they would've addressed this by now.

[HBLighting PRO]

Another question......... does anybody know what gears will fit inside of the rear differental housing? Like will kyosho, ofna, etc.

[cbr74]

Kyosho MP 7.5 gears will fit as will the ones for the HPI Savage

[HBLighting PRO]

thanks CBR!

[geo8498]

I think I just destroyed my clutch. At first I thought something happened to my diffs, but determined it's the clutch. If I roll the car, it wants to crank the engine. The clutch seems like it's stuck to the flywheel. It makes a squeeking noise. Anyone have this happen? Maybe I melted the shoes or something?

[cbr74]

It's not likely that you melted the shoes. I'd bet either the spring broke or a clutchbell bearing went bad and seized.

[geo8498]

The weirdest thing. One of the pins in the flywheel was projecting out and was rubbing the clutchbell. I have no idea how that happened. Those things are in there pretty tight. I had to hammer it back in.

Now I'm facing a more serious problem. I just ruined the piston as I was messing around with the darn thing. I think it's shot. As I know better than to put something in the crankcase... in my haste , I did anyway to hold the shaft. Well, I didn't even put too much pressure on it and the piston head got damaged. To top off my beautiful evening, two of the screw heads are stripped on the head. Now I can't even get the thing apart to look at the piston and sleeve.

Well, come payday, maybe I'll break down and get that Hyper 8-port I've been thinking about. I don't know, I was hoping not to spend the money yet since I have house stuff to take care of. But I imagine a new piston and sleeve would cost a good $70 anyway. And with summer on itw way, I gotta have the Lightning running. Anyone know the price on the piston and sleeve?

[Juice]

Sounds like you may have seized up the clutch-bell bearings!

[cbr74]

piston/sleeve is $62 at Tower.

[geo8498]

Thanks CBR

Anyone know how to get stripped-head screws out of the head? There's no way to get in there to notch it.

[Casey]

Hey guys. Yesterday was the first race of the year at Bristol R/C Hobbies in Bristol, Wisconsin. We had on and off rain all day and the track was pretty muddy. I ran my Lightning Pro and ended up with a 2nd in the A-Main behind a guy running a Kanai II with an OPS engine. I'm still running the stock engine, but will probably have to upgrade. It just doesn't have the oomph I need to keep up with those expensive engines. Anyway, I placed my Lightning ahead of two Mugens, a Hyper 7 Pro, a Lightning RR, GS Storm, and an Ofna Ultra. I think I was only three laps down from the Kanai, and probably would have been on the same lap or possibly could have won. 4 or 5 times in the main I'd come off of a jump and when my buggy landed the engine stalled. Luckily it was close to the stand and the marshal could get my buggy to me in a hurry. I'd restart it and go only to have the same thing happen. I think the problem was that there was so much mud packed in around the flywheel. When I landed it pushed up against the flywheel and shut me down. Otherwise it was a great race day. Here's a pic of the dirty buggy and 2nd Place trophy.

[Casey]

Buggy

[Casey]

Trophy

[Juice]

Sweet, good job against all the other buggies! So no parts breakage during the whole day? Thats nice!

[Casey]

NOTHING broke. No complaints from me on this car. These buggies are tough!

[HBLighting PRO]

Has anyone looked at Tower Hoobies lately, because they have alot of parts for our cars now.

[cbr74]

Good job Casey.

[Juice]

What pipes are you guys running with the stock motor or any motor really!! I will want to get me a nice one-piece polished Pipe/header combo. One with overall good low end and nice top end as well!

[cbr74]

Ofna 10077 one piece exhaust. Very similar to RB 086.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Juice
Sweet, good job against all the other buggies! So no parts breakage during the whole day? Thats nice!

Of course he didnt break anything :) He replaced the "weak" parts already - i.e., wing and wheels :)

I only broke a wing on mine and its been raced the last few weekends

[hkgasmd]

hey does anybody know if this will work for us? It would be a sweet start system instead of a box. I'm not quite sure if the starter shaft will clear our bones or suspension arms. Has anyone tried this yet. The retail price is $55, less than a box.

www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

[CHEVYMAN07]

What do you think it would look like with a pro-line maxx sierra body? I would say the tires might be to small but dont know?

[HBLighting PRO]

I wish my car could do a couple laps without breaking, well not breaking, giving out. My rear Diff's keep giving out, today I went to Ace Hardware Hobbies (I live like 15 miles from it) and bought the Ofna Rear Diff Gear Set (the were out of the Kyosho, cbr) and I install them and I get about a tank, then it gives out. But I solved this by putting a small bit of aluminium where the pin is suppose to mount on the gear and I hope it solved my problem (it was dark when I was finished, and I need to charge my Power Battery). Oh yeah....I got a nice new Triton Charger & a Starter Box for my birthday:D :D :D

[HBLighting PRO]

:confused:

[RokleM]

What do you mean, "giving out"?

-RokleM

[HBLighting PRO]

By giving out I ment that the back wheels wouldn't drive, the gears wouldn't mesh together properly. They would just darg and all the power got put to the front wheels.

[NitoIgniter]

it kinda makes my stomach turn to read all these problems with the rear diff. :(

HB Lightning Pro, did you put the diff gasket in? I get mine tomorrow and I'm debating if I should even mess with the diffs. (even if it does turn out to be missing a gasket).

[Juice]

Sounds like a fitting/meshing problem to me?? Maybe the center diff has something to do with it also!! Very interesting problem since this is not the first time its happened!`

[k_bojar]

HB Pro - Are you sure you put the rear diff back in the correct way??? Once again, I know its a stupid suggestion, but I've done it with mine and it kinda had the same problems :)

I've never had a problem with my diffs at all :) and I've rebuilt them and refilled the diffs a couple of times now :) Next is to take them apart to replace the bearings with some Acer ones :) (If they are good enuff for Degani, then they good enuff for me :D)

[cbr74]

For $8 a bearing... they BETTER be good enough!

A looooong time ago... I had a Tamiya Clodbuster... accidentally hooked up the rear motor backwards... it was quite comical.. sitting there with all 4 tires spinning and not going anywhere.
:p

[HBLighting PRO]

I think the problem was that I didn't "break" my diff gears in correctly, on the first tank I went full boar. And I know I put them in right because I did it by the manual.:mad: And I've yet to order my gasket for my car, I need HB's E-mail to order the parts. Also, does anybody know where I can order new differentials?

P.S. How does everyone keep those allen head screws that holds the steering arm's (C8081) in? Mine keep falling out.

[geo8498]

Well, I was finally able to get the head off my engine. I had to do some creative dremel work and use a torx screw driver to get the last stubborn screw out. I'm not sure just why the thing won't turn over. The sleeve doesn't show any visible damage. The piston is scratched and dinged, but it doesn't look like it would prevent it from sliding within the sleeve. It may be though.

Okay, so how do I get the sleeve out of the crankcase? The thing looks like it's paper thin. Much thinner than I figured it to be. How does it come out?

[HBLighting PRO]

Tri-flow

[HBLighting PRO]

has anybody heard anything about these>>>> http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_91&products_id=2417&osCsid=4ca84f1751a5e01580e5e574d29b750e

[nitrovortex]

hey guys every time i ring up it seems they're shut?? how come its taking Alvin 2 weeks to reply to my email:(

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by nitrovortex
hey guys every time i ring up it seems they're shut?? how come its taking Alvin 2 weeks to reply to my email:(

probably cuz they dont have 24 hour support...I'd try to give them a call between 10 am and 5 pm Pacific standard time :)

Since you're from overseas, you might be calling in the wee hours :)

[nitrovortex]

I call em late at night over here, bout 7-10pm usually. Ill try again anyways:)

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by HBLighting PRO
...How does everyone keep those allen head screws that holds the steering arm's (C8081) in? Mine keep falling out.

I changed mine out for a longer screw - but other than that, I didnt have any problems

[HBLighting PRO]

could you explain what you did?

[geo8498]

Who has recommendations on a new .21? Preferrably for less than $150. I still gotta buy a lawn mower this month, and didn't budget for a new engine. But since my motor looks too far gone for me to bother with...

Any comments on Ofna's Hyper.21 8 port? Who has the best deal on the Ofna Hyper 8 port? I don't need a pullstart.


Any comments on an OS? say maybe the RGX. Is that any better than the stock engine? Or should I just get a replacement stock. I'd really like to upgrade though.

[geo8498]

Originally posted by k_bojar
I changed mine out for a longer screw - but other than that, I didnt have any problems

Which screws are we talking about?

I did lose a big screw (8mm if I recall) on the top steering brace. I replaced them 10mm screws and thread lock. I also put Associated nylon nuts on the bottom of my steering knuckle arms.

If you're referring to the screws that hold the hub knuckles on...well I have the same problem. In fact, my left knuckle stripped out altogether. But for the most part, I've dabbed a bit of CA onto them and globbed some silicone glue over the head. That held pretty well, until the knuckle stripped out from bashing so hard.

[HBLighting PRO]

yea thats what I was talking about, but everybody else losses them too i guess:)

[cbr74]

interesting... mine have never even thought about coming loose. Maybe the Pro's 7075 knuckles are less susceptible to this problem?

[HBLighting PRO]

I figured I could put tape over the screws to keep them from falling out. But I as well have the pro and my have striped out and screws have fallin out a numerious amount of times.

[geo8498]

I think Hot Bodies might even be aware that they would fall out frequently. They have the parts package just for those screws and bushings. I think it's a design flaw that could somehow be remedied in an update release. How are the Kyosho knuckles attached? Do they have the same problem?

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by geo8498
I think Hot Bodies might even be aware that they would fall out frequently. They have the parts package just for those screws and bushings. I think it's a design flaw that could somehow be remedied in an update release. How are the Kyosho knuckles attached? Do they have the same problem?

I know the part you are talking about is actually for connecting the turnbuckle to the steering rack - not the steering knuckle. Unless you are talking about using the screws from this kit for the steering knuckle.
:cool:

[HBLighting PRO]

Mine fall out all the time, and I replace them with M4x10's, but like I said they always fall out.:rolleyes:

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by HBLighting PRO
Mine fall out all the time, and I replace them with M4x10's, but like I said they always fall out.:rolleyes:

I'd tried either some LockTight or a lock nut on the botton of the screw...I think I did both to mine :)

[HBLighting PRO]

DOH!:p :p I've started this conversation and everybody thinking about the wrong thing.....Turn to page 10 in the instruction manual. In picture #17 there are 2-M4x10 that go into the up right (C8011) to hold the steering knuckle (C8081) in so it doesnt fall out.

Now what im having trouble with is keeping those two littte M4x10's in.

Does everbody else's fall out or do they stay in.

K-Bojar, I've tried LockTight and it doesn't hold very well (and im not about to use red LockTitght:) ) And a lock nut wont fit.

[geo8498]

Yes, that's the part that I was talking about too. That's why I was asking if the Kyosho guys would have the same problem. My thinking is that there should be some wsort of a pin or sleeve over the screw to keep it from coming loose.

[HBLighting PRO]

that sounds like a good idea. Drill a hole through this screw and put a pin through the middle of it and crip the pin;)

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Hey guys! I haven't been very active in the forum lately, but I got some new tires and painted my first body!! Here are the pics:

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

more:

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

last one, also, does any one know of a good engine for under 150 bux. I was thinking O.S. Max, but which one?

[k_bojar]

looks nice :) I'm gonna have to take a pic or 2 of mine over the weekend :D

I dunno about the motor - if and when mine blows up, I'm going with the big OS motor - the V01B with the O'Donnell head and the OS pipe :) But that's gonna have to wait until at least next year

[k_bojar]

looks nice :) I'm gonna have to take a pic or 2 of mine over the weekend :D

I dunno about the motor - if and when mine blows up, I'm going with the big OS motor - the V01B with the O'Donnell head and the OS pipe :) But that's gonna have to wait until at least next year

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Hey thanx. Does any one have any experience with the adjustable 1/8 CVEC dual exhaust racing pipe? Are they worth the money? I also hear that they are race illegal, but I will mostly use my buggy to bash with that pipe if I get it. Here's a picture of it:
thanks, guys,
steve
http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/images/cvecpurple.jpg

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

On that VO1B engine, couldn't you, instead of getting an engine with the vented crankcase, just put an MIP boost backplate and drill a hole in the carb, and connect those with fuel tubing on a cheaper engine? Just wondering, I don't wanna spend 300 bux here!

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Also, is the stock engine for our buggy a pilot shaft? Can you use the other type of crankshaft on our car (I forgot what it's called)?
Thanks alot,
Steve

[geo8498]

Originally posted by HBLigHtnIngRR
Hey thanx. Does any one have any experience with the adjustable 1/8 CVEC dual exhaust racing pipe? Are they worth the money? I also hear that they are race illegal, but I will mostly use my buggy to bash with that pipe if I get it. Here's a picture of it:
thanks, guys,
steve
http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/images/cvecpurple.jpg

I have this pipe. It's pretty good. There are a few things I didn't like about it, which I posted a detailed list on the board some months ago. Probably around page 20 or so. One thing is it leaks at the seem. I also think the pressure fitting should be beefier. Finally, it's not flanged, which I think it needs to be, especially for a $50 pipe. I did see a noticable improvement in performance over the stock pipe. And it looks cool, and sounds good.

It's very short too, which means cutting a new hole in the body.

[geo8498]

Also, there is no set screw included with the pipe, and the set screw from your stock pipe won't fit.

[cbr74]

Also, is the stock engine for our buggy a pilot shaft? Can you use the other type of crankshaft on our car (I forgot what it's called)?

The stock BB 21 has an SG(pilot) shaft. Can you use a standard threaded shaft? You could but you'd need a special clutchnut . You're better off sticking with SG shaft engines... that way all the stock clutch and such will bolt on. When I put the Picco XP in mine, everything from the stock engine bolted right up to the Picco powerplant.

CVEC's aren't legal for racing because they have moving parts.

A boost chamber is more eye candy than it is performance. It does SEEM to smooth out the powerband a little bit, but the difference is so minimal... it's really not worth the time or the effort IMO.

As budget upgraded powerplants go... the Hyper 8 port has a noticeable increase in performance over the BB 21 and reasonably priced.

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Here's some info for anyone considering a new engine:

That Ofna Hyper 8-Port engine sounds good! It's only $129 at http://www.extremercmotorsports.com ! I was looking at an XTM Pro Racing engine at http://www.hobbypeople.net for $150 but it's claimed HP was 2.4, .1 less than the Ofna 8-Port. I'm pretty sure they'll both fit our buggy, am I right?
I think when it's time to get a new engine, I'll go with the Ofna Hyper 8-Port.

XTM:
http://graphics.hobbypeople.net/gallery/146025.jpg

Ofna Hyper 8 Port:
http://www.ofna.com/images/eng-hyper21-8.jpg

[romulus]

I think that the hyper 21 will fit with no problem. I don't know much about the XTM. But from what I heard it has better performance than the stock engine. In my case, I went for an OFNA/Picco .26 ( if you can get one now). I didn't have much problem installing it with exception of the enigne mounts that it was a bit on their way. The engine body is a little bit in the fat size. I mentioned this 5 or 6 pages back. Anyway, I did finished breaking it and tuned. I was really amazed with the amount of lower end torque. My buggy launched quickly without any problem. Is really good mill considering that the 1/8 buggies are in the heavy side. Top speed is pretty much like the Rustler 2.5 since I have one as well. Regarding an upgrade pipe, I just got an RD logic pipe. The pipe is really close copy of RB but a cheaper price.

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Cool, Romulus, I have a Rustler too, I'm trring to find a better engine for it, if you have any ideas, Pm me. As for that RD pipe. You said it is similar to the RB pipe. The RB pipe is not the one I was talking about earlier is it (The adjustable one)? And is it very expensive?
Thanks,
Steve

[k_bojar]

HBLigHtnIngRR - If you are planning on ever racing your Lightning, I would still solely with the .21 power plants...ROAR/IFMAR and many local tracks have rules regarding the max size of a buggies engine

Since I race mine, I'm only looking at .21's should I need to replace mine

[romulus]

right now I am not planning to race, I used to race electric sedans..it takes too much time for my busy schedule (I will try it someday). I just only practice. As for the engine, If I race I will get the Hyper .21 8 ports.
I know that you were talking about the adjustable pipe. However, I was just giving you some other alternatives that you can use for racing (if you want to). The RD pipe I got it for $45 while the RB is selling for about $58. Or if you want, you can use the ofna 10077 pipe. I heard that is really good as well...

[cbr74]

I run the Ofna 10077, it's a nice exhaust.

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Yeah, I know Romulus, I was just unclear on what the RB and RD pipes were. I was confused.
k_bojar: I know I can't have more displacement than .21 for racing, but thanks for the info!
Thanks alot guys,
STeve

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Hey, I looked everywhere, but i couldn't find a price for that Ofna 10077. What did y'all pay for it?
thanx,
Steve

[cbr74]

10077 at Ace (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20_21&products_id=2232&osCsid=0b2186516a79e17bd97381ffc1c1097b)

10077 at NitroHouse (http://www.nitrohouse.com/pipes.htm)

10077 at Stormer (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OFN10077)

You have a loose definition of "everywhere", I found it at the first three places I looked. LOL

[HBLighting PRO]

You could put a Y.S. 91 and easily pull 13-15 degress running 710's and still not bogg the headspeed.
Just a little bit of the heli-nerd coming out of me + i'm tired too.

[geo8498]

I just bought two wings from a guy on eBay. They aren't the fanciest wings in the world, but the plastic is flexible and they look like they would never break. They only cost me $3 each. He had 29 of them on a dutch auction. Right now it's not showing him as having any on auction, but he had 29 of them, so if you email him he may still have some. His user name is epicr.

I hope this link works.

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=3124884456&rd=1

[geo8498]

I guess since the link is to a cgi page, the board won't allow it. So the url sould have **************, where you see the ************

Or you could search for Item# below...

1/8 scale off road wings Kyosho Crono Mugen
Item # 3124884456

Maybe this link will work

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=3124884456&rd=1

[geo8498]

Well, looks like the board just won't take that link. sorry about that.

[k_bojar]

Here's a couple pic of my buggy - now that it got dirty :)
http://home.att.net/~k.bojar/BigBuggy001-1.jpg

and without the body:
http://home.att.net/~k.bojar/BigBuggy_004-1.jpg

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by geo8498
Well, looks like the board just won't take that link. sorry about that.

They look pretty good...I had to go to ebay.com and search for the item number :)

Too bad the auction ended :(

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Hey guys, those wings do look good!! I am going to try and contact the seller via e-mail, try to get some of those!! Well, I was wondering... My LHS has a hi- torque servo that he's selling for only like 40-50 bucks. It has like 100 oz. @ 4.8v; .2 secs. @4.8v. Thias sounds like an incredibly good deal. It's made by Hitech, under the name Hobbyco. Does any one know ANYthing about this servo. Is it gonna break after like a week of use? If anyone has any info. it would be appreciated.
thanks,
STeve

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

By the way, it has metal gears and BBs!!
c-ya
steve

[stingray]

Any links to places that have the Lightning in stock???

[cbr74]

RcBoyz (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=37203&clist=0,9323)

I don't know about stock status, but I DO know you'll be hard pressed to find a better price.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by HBLigHtnIngRR
Hey guys, those wings do look good!! I am going to try and contact the seller via e-mail, try to get some of those!! Well, I was wondering... My LHS has a hi- torque servo that he's selling for only like 40-50 bucks. It has like 100 oz. @ 4.8v; .2 secs. @4.8v. Thias sounds like an incredibly good deal. It's made by Hitech, under the name Hobbyco. Does any one know ANYthing about this servo. Is it gonna break after like a week of use? If anyone has any info. it would be appreciated.
thanks,
STeve

Hobbico servos are made my Hitec...I wouldnt buy that servos though - its extremely slow, most servos are in the .09 - .15 range at 4.8...

[NitoIgniter]

rcboyz is out of stock. I purchased the last one they had.

I bought that hobico servo. The speed is 0.24 udner 4 volts and 0.20 under 6 volts. My 3003 futaba servos are the same speed and they don't seem slow to me. The hobbico servo also puts out 133oz with 6 volt (according to the packaging).

[Casey]

Originally posted by stingray
Any links to places that have the Lightning in stock???

I bought my Lightning Pro from these guys: http://www.hpisavage21.com/lightning_pro.htm

I paid with PayPal and had my buggy a few days later.

[NitoIgniter]

I'm curious what the stock .21 BB engine has for horse power. Does it have a rating?

[k_bojar]

YOu can also try Pottbelly's R/C - I know we have at least 2 in stock...

Email Slammin'Sam slairson@direcpc.com for prices

Wow...you are using servos that slow ;):) I'm using a Hitec 625MG for throttle/brake and a Hitec digital for steering :) Just a little overkill...Speed and torque also :D

[NitoIgniter]

look what's going find a home in my Lightning Pro. ;)

http://members.aol.com/wleelaw/hyper_race/hyper_race_ps2.jpg

OFNA Hyper 8-port .21 Racing engine. (Hobao #2117)

Can someone educate me on pipes? Are they all pretty standard? Would that OFNA pipe cbr raves about fit? You would think so. ;)

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Thanks for the input guys. I know it's kinda slow, but I don't want a $100 servo. I don't wanna spend that much, plus, I can't really afford a really expensive servo (I'm 16). But how is that servo holding up, NitoIgniter? How long have you had it? Well, thanks for the info,
Steve
Also, where did you get that engine NitoIgniter? I really like the paint scheme!! On the Ofna web site, they are shown just being plain aluminum.

[NitoIgniter]

HBLigHtnIngRR, I have not installed that hobico servo yet honestly. I'm also a newbie. I have never raced. Bashers are just fine without a $100 servo. If you want to race, however, you may need it. I'm going to find out for myself when our local track opens in May.

I got the engine on ebay for $165. Go to ebay and search for 3129167567. The hyper .21 8-port racing engine has 2.7 horse power. This is the "Poor Man's RB". Big muscle, low price. In my case, the color was not an issue.

[k_bojar]

Here's the results from another good weekend of Lightning Racing :)

Pottbelly's R/C - Vineland, NJ

A-Main 1/8th Scale Buggy
[list=1]
HB Lightning Pro (slammin' Sam) - 16/10:21.850
Kyosho MP7.5 Kanai - 16/10:33.080
Kyosho MP6 - 16/10:37.040
HB Lightning Pro (mine) - 13/10)03.908
OFNA Ultra - 10/08:16.548
GS Storm - 1
OFNA MBX - DNS
OFNA 9.5 - DNS
OFNA 9.5 - DNS
[/list=1]

Just to show that these buggies can hang with them all :) In my case, if only driver learned not to overdrive the car :(

[kyoshofan420]

Thanks for the quick reply!:D I think I will get the Pro from rcboyz unless my lhs matches the price. You guys are really awesome and I will let you all know when I get the buggy:)