Tower Hobbies St-15

[michel-2000]

Hi to all...

I'm an Electric RC fan that wants to go into Nitro.....

I just got the latest Tower flyer......

This ST-15 is the cheapest, and looks pretty cool...

I read all the posts here, and I'm still wondering if that could be a good beginner nitro truck ????

Of course, being able to pay 3 x 77$ is attractive too....LOL ;)

But seriously, to start with, is that a good truck I can have fun with ?...Of course, in the future, I would upgrade it with better parts and stuff.....

Thanks in advance for your comments...

Michel

[surferdude]

yes sit is a god starter truck, that is the same one i started out w/. so have fun :cool:

[michel-2000]

Well...I ended up buying a used Duratrax Nitro ST......for like 50$us...

I putted about 100$ on parts and now I'm re-building it.....

Very cool.....very cheap.......

Thanks for all your advices...

Michel

[wrxboy04]

i wanted to buy the kit for me to build myself and i just saw the intructions on putting it together is it just one diagram like in the manual posted earlier or is it step by step because that manual looks hard lol thanks for any replies

[pilotwings119]

I bought the ST-15 and love it. I've had no problems with steering or the engine (.15 BB), but I have grinded out the spur gear. I'm replacing the bottom mount screws and the spur gear.

I'm using Duratrax ribbed tires in the front, and Pro-Line Gladiators in the back. I love the tires!! The front wheels are some chrome aftermarket.. don't know what they are.

I'm hoping to upgrade to the Tower Tuned Pipe kit and 2-speed tranny soon.

I've read every single word of this 3-year thread, and benefited greatly from the wealth of information. Thanks to every single person that contributed. :)

[pilotwings119]

Also - can anyone tell me how hard it is to install the 2-speed transmission? Thanks

[erikds]

Also - can anyone tell me how hard it is to install the 2-speed transmission? Thanks

I have installed it and it is not to difficult. The only problem that I had was the clutch nut, the screwhead it stripped out the head trying to get the screw out. I would recomend buying a second clutch nut when you are doing this. It will probably take about two hours since you need to pull the trans apart. Good luck

[pilotwings119]

i just bought a complete screw set for the st-15, so I should be covered :)

thanks for the reply

[wrxboy04]

sorry about me reposting but noone answered my question
"wanted to buy the kit for me to build myself and i just saw the intructions on putting it together is it just one diagram like in the manual posted earlier or is it step by step because that manual looks hard lol thanks for any replies"

[pilotwings119]

no its not like the diagram posted. I'm sure its an easy-to-follow step-by-step instruction guide. If you run into any problems, give Tower a call and they can always help.

[kawasakirider]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVH99**&P=ML

is that the car if it is no offence to anyone that owns it but it looks like a peice of crap i wouldnt lay my hard earned down on it go ofna or xtm or great vigour are xtm if you are in europe or over here in australia

[Billabob91]

I just got the car a couple weeks ago and broke the pull starter before it could start. Yank eliminator is on its way.... Do you guys have any tips for breaking in the truck? Thanks a lot.
Bill

[pilotwings119]

idc what you think it looks like. also, the body doesn't come painted like that. its a great solid truck. after mods and hop ups, that thing has an amazing potential.

idk - i didnt break mine in. someone else did it.

[Billabob91]

I got the yank eliminator and it works great. I love this truck! :D

[pilotwings119]

AH I'm so glad to hear that - I JUST bought that a few hours ago from Tower :D

I can't wait to get it now. I'm assuming you bought the OS one, right?

[Billabob91]

Yes, i bought the os one. mine didnt come with instructions, but its pretty easy to figure out. You also have to clean the bearing thats in it every now and then.

[pilotwings119]

Yes, i bought the os one. mine didnt come with instructions, but its pretty easy to figure out. You also have to clean the bearing thats in it every now and then.
okay thanks for the tip ;)

[Billabob91]

No problem. :)

[Billabob91]

Ok. so i crashed my car into a curb. Not good. The chassis brace broke, but thats the only visible damage. Now, when i start it, the engine revs, but it doesnt go anywhere. :confused: Sometimes the clutch belll moves, some times it doesnt. Maybe i need a new spur gear. Does anyone know the part number? any other advice woould be greatly appreciated! thanks a lot!

[keebler]

Ok. so i crashed my car into a curb. Not good. The chassis brace broke, but thats the only visible damage. Now, when i start it, the engine revs, but it doesnt go anywhere. :confused: Sometimes the clutch belll moves, some times it doesnt. Maybe i need a new spur gear. Does anyone know the part number? any other advice woould be greatly appreciated! thanks a lot!

LXWZ80 .......tower hobbies.....$5.49.... ;)
maybe you should check the slipper clutch? it might be loose.? tighten it up then back it off 1/4 of a turn...

[thehappyone]

Hi i have not run my truck for about 9 months or so after i broke my starter for the second time. I just got a new pull starter, i put in some after run oil a few times well it was just sitin around. Is there any thing i need to do befor i start it up and run it. My high speed and low speed needs to be looked at i know that for sure. Any help would be really cool thanks

[keebler]

put in fresh fuel,new or freshly charged battery's .new glo-plug......
set h/s needle and l/s needle to factory settings, if they are giving you a problem..? and go from there... ;)

[pilotwings119]

put in fresh fuel,new or freshly charged battery's .new glo-plug......
set h/s needle and l/s needle to factory settings, if they are giving you a problem..? and go from there... ;)
I know right off that factory setting for the HSN is 2 - 2.5 turns out from fully closed. So turn it all the way to the right until its tightened (don't overtighten!!). Then turn it 2 turns to the left and try it like that - thats how mine works the best to start out with, then I make fine adjustments from the 2 turns out.

[thehappyone]

cool thanks i almost forgot about changing my glow plug ahhahah . One thing it works fine i checked it last night or should i just put a new one in anyway? Oh yea what was the lsn seting to get it to start lost my book. I broke my Torque Rod like the first week i had this truck i had not fixed it it like broke right off and some plastic broke off to . Is it ok to not have it?

[keebler]

cool thanks i almost forgot about changing my glow plug ahhahah . One thing it works fine i checked it last night or should i just put a new one in anyway? Oh yea what was the lsn seting to get it to start lost my book. I broke my Torque Rod like the first week i had this truck i had not fixed it it like broke right off and some plastic broke off to . Is it ok to not have it?
for starters the l/s needle should be flush with the carb body.....
then do the pinch test and see what it does? if it dies quick,it's too lean
if it goes 4 sec. or more it is too rich... :D

[erikds]

cool thanks i almost forgot about changing my glow plug ahhahah . One thing it works fine i checked it last night or should i just put a new one in anyway? Oh yea what was the lsn seting to get it to start lost my book. I broke my Torque Rod like the first week i had this truck i had not fixed it it like broke right off and some plastic broke off to . Is it ok to not have it?

I would fix the torque rod since the will be some flex between the motor mount and the transmission which could widen the gap between the pinion and spur gear. If the were to occur, you could strip out your spur gear.

[thehappyone]

thanks

[thehappyone]

After havin this truck for about a year now im startin to think why i got it. I guess it's cuz it was only $200. I should of spent alittle bit more and i could of got something better i guess you can say that with any car/truck. You know just alittle bit more i could of got this or that.Any ways im lookin in to getin a new truck somthing kinda the same just for fun but better. What you guyz think i can get for like $300 rtr? ps does any one eles think the controlers that come with rtr's just suck.

[Billabob91]

The radios with losi rtr's dont suck.

[rigrishracer22B]

no losi controllers dont suck the ones that come with the evaders suck the steering trim dont wrk on mine :mad: does traxxas still sell nitro stampeds cant find on towers

[keebler]

no losi controllers dont suck the ones that come with the evaders suck the steering trim dont wrk on mine :mad: does traxxas still sell nitro stampeds cant find on towers

LXJE68** try this number at towerhobbies. it iLXJE68** s for the nitro pede $292.9

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJE68**&P=3

[pilotwings119]

If you wanted something similar to the ST-15 but better, I'd get an rc10gt. They are verrry popular.

[dtxracer1_0_1]

i got a st-15 and had it for like a week and every thing was differnt than it was supposed to be like it had the wrong parts like muffler thing and alot of other stuff but that was 3 years ago and then i got a duratrax nitro evader st and it is really fast but i would get a jato even though there alot of money

[pilotwings119]

well of course the jato is better - its also $350!! For a good $200 - $250 price range, the ST-15 with lots of mods, the stock Evader, and the stock RC10GT are all great. I'm going to get an O.S. .18 CV-RX to go in my ST-15 next month for my birthday. That thing... will FLY!! :cool: :D

[Billabob91]

Wow, an 18 will really get that truck moving. I think its really fast stock, and now I've got about $100 to spend on my St-15 :D . What do you guys think i should buy?
Bill

[pilotwings119]

Wow, an 18 will really get that truck moving. I think its really fast stock, and now I've got about $100 to spend on my St-15 :D . What do you guys think i should buy?
Bill
Definitely buy the Tower tuned pipe set FIRST!!! Then maybe new shocks, maybe 2-speed tranny, and other stuff.

[Billabob91]

Yeah I'll do that. Thanks. Pics coming soon! :)

[Billabob91]

Ok guys.... I got the pipe.... but there are no diagrams or anything and i dont know how to put it on :confused: ! Can you guys show me a pic or diagram or something? Thanks

[Billabob91]

I got the pipe on, and i ran the truck. It sounds cooler now and seems faster, but i stripped another spur. Gosh, this thing strips them like crazy!

[Billabob91]

its been over a month and no one has posted anything.... lol

[Billabob91]

I crashed my ST-15 into a curb... :(. The weird thing is I don't know what happened, I just couldn't stop it. It might have been the radio, or the carb came loose. Anyway, The fuel tak broke, the servo mounts broke, and the flywheel and clutch came off of the engine, which caused it to rev really high, I've never heard an engine rev that high before, and the rod broke. Here is a pic...
http://i3.tinypic.com/vpb86f.jpg

[adamzty]

So would you guys reccomend this truck for a nitro newbie, I have never had a nitro truck before :rolleyes: , and I dont have lots of money to spend. Also I was wondering how fast it goes and how long you can run it on one tank of fuel :)

[adamzty]

Does anyone use this forum anymore???

Well Anyway - I just bought a st-15 from tower hobbies yesterday. Should be here within a week. I bought the RTR, 10% sport fuel (4 gallons), fuel filter, Glow Starter, extra spur gear (ive heard that they strip quite easily), fuel bottle, after run oil, glow plug wrench, extra glow plugs (6), and air filter oil.

Can someone tell me how to prevent spur gear from stripping???

Also, Can anyone give a few tips on how to break in the engine - I have read the manual, but are there any other things you can do that would prolong the life of the engine???

How long do the batteries in the radio last? How long does it run on a tank of fuel? And how fast does it go Without any hop-ups???

Sorry for all of the questions, but this is my first nitro truck and I dont want it to break because I am 14 years old and I dont make much money

Thanks for everything!

Ive read through this whole forum, and I have gotten a LOT of useful information out of it!!!

[Stormbasher3100]

Generally nitro trucks are built very durable so they wont break unless you hit something hard. To keep the spur from stripping you need to properly set the gear mesh. It should not be so tight that it is causing extra stress on the engine. Too loose and it will strip real easy. You want to have it so there is just a tick of play.

[ZiP0165]

Im new to this forum deal but im gonna try it anyway. I bought a st-15 on e-bay a week ago and have had nothing but a blast with it. I've already ran a hlaf gallon of fuel through it an dits never failed. We have a local rc dirt oval here and im planning to convert my st-15 into a outlaw latemodel. I have read alot of the past replies about the rc10gt hopups with the a arms and all and wondered what it would be like if you only put the rc10gt stuff on the right side and left the stock st-15 stuff on the left to create a major offset. I plan on trying this. These guys around here make their own bodies out of aluminum and rivit them together to look like real latemodels.I'll post pics when I get some progress made on it, I think it will be cool!

[adamzty]

Thanks :) , one think - i have no idea on how to properley set the gear mesh :rolleyes: , I am totally new to nitro, and I dont know much. Thanks :) :) :)

[keebler]

Thanks :) , one think - i have no idea on how to properley set the gear mesh :rolleyes: , I am totally new to nitro, and I dont know much. Thanks :) :) :)..............

I would say to use the "paper" method to set the gear mesh !!!! you turn the spur gear to put the paper in, then set the mesh. turn the spur gear to remove the paper...If the paper is "CUT" mesh is to tight...If paper is not marked very well then the mesh is too "LOOSE"..I hardly strip gears anymore since i started using this method.
this works on nitro and electric....
to set the mesh,you have to loosen the 4 engine screws on the bottom,then slide the engine forward or backward to set it !!!
the strip of paper can be about 1/2 inch wide and 3 or 4 inches long ,or what ever you feel comfortable with...
( hope this is clear enuff)
OH! i'm not an artist...lol... :D
http://images.yorkphoto.com/346937694%7Ffp344%3Enu%3D323%3B%3E%3A%3C9%3E9%3A4% 3EWSNRCG%3D3233686%3B72%3A85nu0mrj

[adamzty]

Thanks a lot!!! That will be very handy in the future!!! Anyway, How often do you have to set the mesh??? Dosnt the engine move just a little bit over time? Also, do you tighten the screws really hard???

Sorry for all of the questions, but I am a COMPLETE NOOB

I just tried to check the status of my order, and it says that they have shipped it, but the tracking number that they gave me dosnt work :confused: :confused: :confused:

[keebler]

I haven't had any trouble with the mesh, since i have set it. in time it will get loose from wear. you can always check it before and/or after you run it ! I always use "threadlocker blue" on engine screws,bolts,etc....
never use the red. you might not be able to get the screws out if you do..
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN any screws!!!!!! just snug them up real good and use
the threadlocker blue. or (blue locktite) you'll figure it out in time,and get the feel of not being to tight. oh! always do a pre-run check of mesh,screws,bolts,etc.it is a good thing to do all the time.remember that viberation is very hard in r/c's :eek:

[keebler]

Im new to this forum deal but im gonna try it anyway. I bought a st-15 on e-bay a week ago and have had nothing but a blast with it. I've already ran a hlaf gallon of fuel through it an dits never failed. We have a local rc dirt oval here and im planning to convert my st-15 into a outlaw latemodel. I have read alot of the past replies about the rc10gt hopups with the a arms and all and wondered what it would be like if you only put the rc10gt stuff on the right side and left the stock st-15 stuff on the left to create a major offset. I plan on trying this. These guys around here make their own bodies out of aluminum and rivit them together to look like real latemodels.I'll post pics when I get some progress made on it, I think it will be cool!
you can use rustler arms on the st-15......
you have to use spacers and different tie rods and dog bones tho-
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL602/2858173/5757831/73873228.jpg
this is when i started to change my st-15
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL602/2858173/5757831/73873185.jpg
t-max shocks,and maximum mt,universal dogbones
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL602/2858173/5757831/142660229.jpg

[adamzty]

Hey, My ST-15 is going to get here on monday, I cant wait!!! Too bad it didnt come today or tommarow, then I would have the weekend to use it. Oh well, So when it gets here, set the gear mesh, threadlock EVERYTHING, and then break it in.

How fast does it go with 10% fuel???

Thanks,
Tyler

[keebler]

i break in with , and use 20 %...in all my r'c's. it does go faster with 20% tho-
maybe you can swap your "lhs" some of the 10 % for some 20% and see the difference for yourself? I would ask other people about it and, get their opinion
I would "check" the gear mesh first. it should be fine from the factory!
mine was fine . just check it all out to keep things from getting too loose and then falling out, while you break it in. They use threadlock at the factory when building it! al least they are supposed to.... :)

[adamzty]

picked up some blue threadlock today :) my parts got here today - fuel bottle, glow plugs, glow starter, ect. My truck is going to get here on monday, I cant wait :) :) :)

How fast does yours go???

[keebler]

Maybe 25 0r 30 mph .you might want to pick up some "after run oil".....
if you are not going to run it for a few days, take glo-plug out and drop
in 3 or 4 drops of after run oil. pull starter slowly 3 or 4 times.and leave the piston at the bottom (BDC)*...then put plug back in,this keeps rust from forming, from sitting to long.


* (BDC) = Bottom Dead Center...

[kawasakirider]

They aren't fast but u can always upgrade the engine. DO NOT threadlock everything only metal to metal screws, if u put a screw going into plastic and put threadlock on it the plastic will get eaten away.

[adamzty]

I did get some after run oil, forgot to mention it... well, it gets here tomarrow!!! hope it dosent rain so i can break it in! howmuch faster does it go with the 2 speed tranny? its 35 bucks, and i dont want to buy it if it dosent make it go that much faster! thanks

[adamzty]

One more question... When you got yours, was it threadlocked???...also, if I have to threadlock them how long do I have to wait for it to cure???

Thanks

[keebler]

They aren't fast but u can always upgrade the engine. DO NOT threadlock everything only metal to metal screws, if u put a screw going into plastic and put threadlock on it the plastic will get eaten away.
yup !..my bad..you are right on the thread lock,I just figured he knew that .
and not to do the plastic.Thanx for the correction...

[keebler]

One more question... When you got yours, was it threadlocked???...also, if I have to threadlock them how long do I have to wait for it to cure???

Thanks
thread lock is instant,don't have to wait after you use it.
at least i never wait for it to "cure"
seems like it was thread locked at factory? I never had any problems with loose screws!!

[adamzty]

Just got it yesterday!!! It is awsome, almost done beaking it in :)

I cant believe how stupid I am - When I got it, I tries to start the engine for half an hour, only to realize that my glow starter battery was dead. Runs fine now though. Ive been through 4 tanks of fuel so far.

One thing that seemed strange was that in the manual, it says to set the high speed needle untill the truck barley runs - they say that it should be between 2.5 and 3 turns out, mine just barley runs with it 4.2 turns out, I just thought that was kindof odd, but mabey it isnt :)

Also how do you use the brakes without killing the engine?? And what are the best posistions for the shocks, I am assuming that their factory positions are the best, but I dont know :) And the charging jack on the radio, It says that you can buy a nicad conversion kit, but can you just fill it with NIMH AA batteries and charge it through the charging jack???

Thanks

[adamzty]

cant i delete this???

[adamzty]

Also, is there a possibility that I can get a 3 speed tranny into it???...I know that there is a 2 speed available, but can I mod it so I can get it to a 3 speed, and what other parts would I need to do that (if i can)?????

Is your spur gear in a gear box?...I think that they used to have gear boxes but they changed it and now they dont

[ZiP0165]

could someone please tell me how to post pics! I want to show off my st-15 dirt outlaw latemodel. Thanks, ZiP.

[ZiP0165]

is this it?

[ZiP0165]

heres another! :)

[Stormbasher3100]

Thats pretty slick.

How well does the st-15 work on a dirt oval?

[ZiP0165]

Well, im real impressed with the way that the st-15 did on the dirt oval. I ran in the top 5 in the feature out of 18 cars. All i really did was put spring spacers on the right sides to stiffen it up a little and played with the lower shock location, got it so it would turn left with the least deceleration as I could and this thing really took off. I amazed at how my st-15 held its own against the losi's, associated rc/10's, and the others. I would recommend the st-15 to anyone! Ill post some more pics after I give it a good bath and show yall some battle wounds. Glad ya like it.

[adamzty]

Wich improvs preformance more - 2 speed transmission or tuned pipe, I am going to get both of them, but I am going to get the best one first :) , I am assuming that it is the 2 speed :) , but I am not for sure. Also could someone tell me how many mph you gain with the tuned pipe and 2 speed! :)

Thanks a lot :) :) :)

[ZiP0165]

before the races..............

[ZiP0165]

During races............

[ZiP0165]

After races................and nothing broke, did well actually!

[adamzty]

I dont mean to be rude - but is anyone going to answer my questions??? :)

[kawasakirider]

well that depends on the gear ratios of the 2 speed and what pipe you get matching your engine. I don't have one of these cars i only have the limited edition hpi savage (monster truck) and a hyper seven (buggy) so i can't tell you what you should get but im sure other people around here could.

[adamzty]

well thanks anyway...do you think that a 3 speed would make it that much faster then a 2 speed - if it wouldnt improve it much, i wont even bother with the 3 speed.

also, does the tuned pipe improve preformance much???

Thanks a lot

[kawasakirider]

well yes a tuned pipe can improve either your acceleration or top speed or both (if you get one that does both you wont get the full potential out of the top or bottom end) btw im 14 aswell i think u said u were. anyway i have a 3 speed in my savage (the LE comes with it) and a guy i know had the stock sav .25 and he put the 3 speed in it and his acceleration imprved greatly that he can flip the truck over with the torque from the engine combined with the low first gear ratio and go allot faster with the higher second gear ratio so i'd say the 3 speed is worth it.

Have you got msn? i can help you out easier on there than on here if so my addie is

trenthetherington@msn.com

[adamzty]

hi - cool that you are 14 also!!!

about the 3 speed - there is no 3 speed avaible [you cant just buy one from tower] but you can buy a 2 speed...so what i am wondering is if i can mod the 2 speed to a 3 speed and i was wondering what parts i need to do it!

sorry...i dont have msn - though you can email me at adamzty@mailshack.com

thanks a lot
tyler

[kawasakirider]

Um modding a tranny would be hard work, probably possible but since im still a newb i wouldn't try it but you may be brave lol

[adamzty]

I was just out racing around on the street today :) - the traction SUCKS with the stock tires, If I go a fourth throttle, it spins out, so I have to accelerate slowly over 20-30 seconds, also I noticed something weird with the engine - I would be going at almost full throttle, and the engine would suddenly stall when I went up to full throttle, would that be an indicator that it is too rich or lean??? I have the high speed needle set at a little over 2 full turns out because that is where it goes the fastest at :D One more thing - anyone have a recomendation for new tires I am thinking that I am going to get these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDT97 but I am not sure. I am looking for tires that would preform excllent on cement, seeing as that is where I am mostly going to be driving it :)

Also I was wondering if the steering servo is weak or if it is just my tires, because when I turn at more then half throttle on the street, it does a REALLY wide turn :confused:

[kawasakirider]

If it stalls at high speed and you have it where it is running it's fastest it sounds 2 lean, those tires are fine. When you are going down the street and get up to full throttle and let off before it stalls does it make a tinging noise like very loud? if it does your 2 lean richen it up a bit

[adamzty]

I made it a bit richer, It dosnt go quite as fast, but it dosnt stall :)

I think that I am going to buy those tires, but I will save up a little more and get either the 2 speed or tuned pipe with them :) - also, should I get the tires for front and back or just back

Thanks for all of your help :) :) :)

[adamzty]

So can anyone tell me what parts I would need to mod the 2 speed tranny to a 3 speed (if it is possible) - I know that it will be VERY hard, but I am willing to try it :)

Thanks for all of the help :D

[adamzty]

Could someone please post some pics of a st-15 with 2 speed installed, I am trying to figure out what all parts I need to convert it to a 3 speed, because I only want to place one order to save on S/H...Thanks a lot :) :)

[kawasakirider]

Um the truck is 2wd hey? well get some ribbed front ones and some chunky all terrain back ones they wont wear out and if u ever decide off road is your go u wont need new tires and rims.

[medicineman]

I run bow ties tires for the track where I race and the stock tires for running in the short grass or gravel roads. The stock tires are pretty lame for most racing, but it will depend on the surface. I've tried dirt-dawgs and they work OK. If you're having problems with traction on the acceleration, you may want to try and trim a little of the clutch shoes. Take it slow, you can always take more off later and try and keep them even. I have shaved 1/4 to 1/8 inch off each shoe and it gives much better traction on the dirt track. This will also allow you to set the engine to a slightly higher RPM so it wouldn't stall as easy. With the two speed tranny and tuned pipe you close to the limit of stability with this truck. If you need the speed of a third gear, spend the money on a Jato!!!

[adamzty]

I think I am just going to forget about the 3 speed idea, it looks like it would me way too hard.

Anyway, which is the best the 2 speed or the tuned pipe??? I am slso going to get those tires that I mentioned above...do they even sell ribbed wheels that would fit the stock rims??? I have almost no money at all, and I dont want to have to buy new rims for it too.

I was racing it around in the street today, and I got almost to the bottom of the hill, I started turning, and I lost control :mad: it went up a curb, did a few flips and landed upside down in the grass. I started running down there, and I realized that the antenna(sp?) wasn't up on my radio, I put the antenna up and I got control, killed the engine and got it back out on the street. Well, I guess that taught me a lesson - ALWAYS put your antenna up :)

Also - I have noticed that one tank of fuel (75cc) only lasts 5-8 minutes of run time, is this just me or should it be running longer on one tank of fuel???

Thanks for all your help :) :) :)

[medicineman]

In my opinion tuned pipes are good only if you have experience in tuning engines. To do this right you need a tach and a temperature gauge. I would recommend the 2 speed, it goes fast and it sounds cool when it shifts. Instructions are a little difficult so take your time. You will need to disassemble the tranny (remove it from the car completely). Alignment with the motor is a little tricky and I spun a spur gear cause I didn't have it set right. Make sure you lock-tite the tranny when you re-assemble. Let me know if you need help, I can try and post some pictures when you get your kit. Make sure you save all the part as ROAR doesn’t allow two speed transitions in competition, so you may have to install the original again if you start racing ROAR.

The tires will come off the stock hubs if you haven't broken or cracked the edges. You again will need to use patients and take your time. A little CA debonder will help and give it some time to work (make sure you use this stuff outside, its pretty toxic).

When we race these machines they take a real beating. I have come off the big jump (about 4 feet high) and landed wrong resulting in 8 or 9 cartwheels. I have my antenna up at the time, but my eyes were closed. The only thing I have broken so far is the drive train on the steering servo. Six bucks buys a rebuild kit.

The amount of nitro you run will change the rate of fuel you will use and how fast you go. The higher nitro value will give you more speed, but more problems with heat. You want the car to run a little rich so it doesn't get hot. Running the engine too lean and hot will drastically shorten the life of the engine. I run Traxxis 20% fuel, with the stock muffler and 2 speed tranny and last week I out drove the Jato. When you race it's more about control and reliability that raw speed. 5 to 8 minutes on a tank is what I get while racing, practicing at the playground where I drive full out I last about 4 minutes.

Try different tires. The stocks worked great at my playground, but at the track a couldn't get over an jump. Also play with the front end, mine had way too much toe-in. This makes it go slower and give you less turning. I still run the stock fronts, but have gone to a more agressive tire in the rear.

Have fun and remember it's an inexpensive car to learn on. Don't make too many changes all at once. The tranny, tires and front end tuning should keep you busy for some time. Once you really get to know and understand your car and how it drive on different surfaces you will appreciate the tuned pipes, better engines and suspension. So many things to worry about.

Consider joining a local track and try racing. You will learn a lot and there will be people there to help with your questions.

Hope all this stuff helps some.

Bob B.

[adamzty]

Wow, Thanks for all the information :D :D :D

It will be about a month until I get my 2 speed, because I dont have much money and I am still paying off my truck.

Also play with the front end, mine had way too much toe-in. This makes it go slower and give you less turning.

What is toe-in, How do I adjust it so my steering is better, right now my steering is bad.

I have already changed the suspention on the frone, I will post some pics soon :D

[adamzty]

I moves the shocks down 3 holes, so they are at the bottom hole. Is that a good or bad adjustment??? :D

http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/2504/im0009745pd.jpg

Thanks again for all the info!

[medicineman]

Toe-in or out is the way the tires/wheels point. If the front wheels point in the exact same direction as the rear wheels then there in no toe. My truck came with the front tires/wheels pointing towards each other (about 5 degrees from dead straight). This can be changed by turning the turn-buckles the smae amount on each side and in the same direction. Make sure to re-center the steering servo before you decide how much you have. I like to run with a slight amount of toe-out. The right wheel will face to the right about 1 degree past center and the left wheel will turn toward the left the same amount. Bounce the truck a few times to release the spring tension and examine the wheels on a smooth hard surface (a kitchen table works great). Using a good ruler, measure the inside front of the front tires and then the inside back of the front tires. Take good notes and then try and drive the truck and see how it steers. Make another adjustment and try driving it again. If you're going in the right direction you will feel the difference in how it handles. Test the truck at the same speed and same surface. Different surfaces will require different settings. This may have a bigger affect than changing tires and it will cost you a lot less. Once you get the car set up for the best handling, then you can start to think about tires. Spending money to solve the problem should be the last resort.

It's not easy, but that’s what makes R/C car racing fun. Each track is a new challenge. Just like the Indy drivers trying to get all the adjustments right, it's not the fastest car that wins, it the one that handles the track the best!

The associated website has a good primer on car tunning, most of the things there apply to the ST-15.

About the fuel consumption, temperature and humidity will affect the settings on rich or lean and will make a slight difference in how much run time you get on a tank of gas. Even different brand of fuel will make a difference, so stick to one type and don't change unless you have a good reason to. Remember what works for you and your truck may not work for anybody else. You have to find the magic combination for yourself.

Bob B

[medicineman]

Moving the shock mount down a few holes should give you more shock action for the bigger jumps. Don't think it will make much difference on the steering. Try it, if it works let me know. I never though of moving the mounts!!!

[adamzty]

I adjusted the toe like you said, havent got a chance to run it yet :)

If you're having problems with traction on the acceleration, you may want to try and trim a little of the clutch shoes. Take it slow, you can always take more off later and try and keep them even. I have shaved 1/4 to 1/8 inch off each shoe and it gives much better traction on the dirt track.

One more thing - what are the clutch shoes, and how do you trim them???

Sorry for all of the questions, but I am a complete noob at this :)

[adamzty]

I was out racing it in the street today, and I hit a curb, and the chassis brace broke :mad: . I glued it together and the glue is drying now. Hopefully that will fix it :)

Will I need a crackshaft Locking Tool to install the 2 speed???

Also - When I brake, the engine stalls. Can anyone tell me how to fix this???

Thanks again for all of the info :)

[medicineman]

Order a new brace, don't rely on the glue. It will fail when you most want to run.

I installed the 2 speed with only a screw driver and a wrench. No special tools needed. Make sure you have the original schematic so you know what your looking at. If you don't have this Tower will send you one.

There is a small screw on the carb that will control the idle speed (not the mixture). This screw limits the movement of the carb and will stop in from closing beyond a certain point. Adjust this with the engine at a moderate idle. When you brake this will keep the RPMs up and the engine will not stall.

You will expose the clutch shoes when you change the endbell with the pinion gear on it (a new one with two pinion gears is part of the 2 speed upgrade). Under the endbell is the clutch mechanism. You will need to removed the e clip and then the clutch shoes will slip off. Remove the spring and the shoes can be trimmed with a sharp exacto knife. Remove a little from each shoe and then re-install. You can alway remove more later. If you take too much off you will need to replace the shoes ($6.95 from Tower). Clean the shoes and endbell to remove any oil or grease that gets in there.

[adamzty]

Thnkas for the reply :)

The brace isnt actually broken, it is the plastic part next to the brake lever, so can I order a new one of those?

Also - I have tried adjusting that screw, but when I hit the brakes, the carb closes even though it is open at idle.

My tires dont have any tread on them anymore, they are completly flat - I think the time has come to order new tires :)

[medicineman]

I would say its time for new tires. IF you're running on the road I have found the dig dawgs pretty good. Anthing with pins (like the stock) will wear fast. In front I would run a ribbed tire like what comes on the Evander or T4. Not sure what the're called. Any 2.2 inch tires will fit on the ST-15.

Sound like you need to turn that screw in (clockwise) until the carb will stay open. There should be no change in the RPMs from idle to brake. If you turn that screw you will see that the carb will stay open, think you just need a little more adjustment.

[ZiP0165]

My st-15 is pulling double duty now, lol. I showed the pics of it as a dirt oval latemodel, now here it is back in truck mode, they just built a new indoor offroad track loacally n went n tried it out,,,,, weeeeeeee. I had a blast, put some pro-line road hawgs on the st-15 stock rims and did some adjusting with shocks and toe in and this little truck was great! :)

[ZiP0165]

Could any one tell me what the best shock to put on the stock chassis and suspension? I saw the upgrade ones for the st-15 but was wondering if any others would work. Also if theirs any racers from the southern Ohio/northern Kentucky area, check this place http://www.southboundhobbies.com/index.html

[adamzty]

OK - here are the tires that Im going to be getting - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000607285&I=LXDX55&P=K
and
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000607285&I=LXLN12&P=K

Are those good tires to get...you mentioned dig dawgs, but I couldnt find those on Tower.

I got the screw adjusted so I can brake now, but when I cant control how much I brake - either I brake none or all the way, and I dont want that to wear my new tires out :)

I am also going to get some CA debonder and CA glue - Ive heard that the stock tires are REALLY hard to get off, but the CA debonder will probley make it alot easier!!!

[medicineman]

The fronts look good, try these for the rear (Pro-Line Dirt Hawg 2.2 Front/Rear Truck).

Sounds like you need a little less throw on the brake lever. To much throw will cause the brakes to grab. It may take a while, but once you find the happy place, you'll be good to run for a long time.

Take you time with the tires, work very small area (1/4 inch) at a time. I used an old butter knife (not sharp) to pry off little bits. It's the only way to save the rims (the tires are shot anyway). good luck.

[adamzty]

Thanks :)

How do I decrease the throw on the brake lever?

Will the dirt hawgs work as good on the street as the other tires, because I mostly run it on the street! When you used a butter knife, did you use CA
Debonder also, or just the knife? I am going to get some medium glue and some activator to glue the tires to the rims. I hope I can get the tires off the rims without killing the rims!

Also - I've noticed that I am getting a LOT of air bubbles in my fuel line, this mainly happens when I acclerate(sp?). I have a cheap fuel filter that I think is causing the problem, there are no bubbles before the filter, but there are after the filter. It is the cheapest filter that tower has, so I think I am going to try another filter - any suggestions?

Thanks again for all of your help!
Tyler

[Stormbasher3100]

those dirt hawgs will last quite a while on the street.They won't get as good grip as the road hawgs, but the big thing is they are also good off road in case you want to run it all around the yard.

[medicineman]

Air bubbles in the fuel line means you're running lean when you accelerate, more importantly: the mixture is changing as you run so you can't get the most out of your engine. If you set the mixture for running and acceleration, then it will be rich when you idle (thus the stalling). If you set it correctly for idle, you will run too lean when accelerating and you'll be too hot and run the risk of overheating and damaging the engine. I don't use a filter on my fuel line and clean the tank after every day of running. Turn it upside down and flush the tank with a little clean fuel. Make sure you clean the air filter (this is important) as you will be much more likely to get dirt in the engine from the air than the fuel.

There is a hex head bolt on top of the break mechanism, which holds the arm with the eye (the spring mechanism). This arm actuates the brake pads. IF you make this arm shorter (loosen the screw and slide the arm in) you will reduce the leverage and thus have less braking. You can also try a softer spring (a piece of fuel line will work as a spring in a pinch). What hole in the servo arm do you have the brake linkage attached? Try moving the linkage to a hole closer to the center of the servo arm.

[adamzty]

Thanks for the reply!

I am going to get rid of my fuel filter, but I will have to but some fuel line first, so when I but the tires, I will buy some fuel line also!

I wil try to make the brake leverage less! Maybe I need to adjust the throttle stop screw a bit, but when I brake, the card moves just a litle bit - just enough to cause the engine to stall after a few seconds.

Also - did you use CA debonder when you changed the tires??? What type of CA glue did you use, and will I need CA activator?

Thanks again for all of the help!
Tyler

[adamzty]

Well, I just spent an hour adjusting the brakes - I moved the rod 2 holes on the servo, and adjusted the brake lever like you told me to. I had to do one additional adjustment - I took the spur gear off, and loosened the 2 screws behind it about 3/4 turn, and now the breaks are working great!


Thanks again
Tyler

[medicineman]

Tyler; You're getting there, starting to know exactly how your truck works and how to adjust it.

I used the debonder to get the tires off, but it only helped a little.

When you glue the new tires on I used a thin CA and no activator. Just a few drops and the CA will run around the bead. You don't need to go crazy, you just don't want the tires falling off. A thin bead all the way around the tire on each side (inside and out) will do fine and will make removing the tires easier later.

Always glad to help so keep asking questions. Let me know what tires you decide on and how they work for you. I run only on dirt tracks so I don't know about running on the asphalt.

[adamzty]

So should I get the debonder, because it costs $3, but I will have to pay $4 extra in shipping charges because it is not parts express. I will get the thin glue instead of the medium!

I cant get the tires yet because the ribed ones are out of stock, they should be in stock soon though!

I dont have any dirt around here to run it on, so about hte only thing I can run it on is asphalt.

I've heard 2 things on this website - 1. It is not good to run your engine at WOT for more then 10 seconds, and 2. An proplery cared for engine can last for up to 12 gallons of fuel before you have to replace the piston and sleve. I was just wondering if these things were true. I have only run about a quart and a half through my engine.

I am wondering if I should get a on board temp gauge??? I want to tune my engine for preformance, but I dont want it to overheat. Is it worth 20 bucks? Also some people around here say that it is fine to have your engine at 280 degrees farenhiet, but my manual says to never let the engine go above 220 :confused:

Thanks a lot
Tyler

[adamzty]

Also - Is the tuned pipe any good??? How much faster will it go with the tuned pipe??? Is the tuned pipe louder or quiter then the stock exhaust???

Thanks for all of your help
Tyler

[OldGary]

Hey Tower Hobbies Fans;

Here you go; tower have a totally new Monster Truck!!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e345/oldGary/towc03.jpg

INCLUDES: TOWER Terror 1/10 scale monster truck with .25 cu in (4.0cc) engine :eek: with pull-starter, glow plug, tires, foam inserts, wheels, Tower Hobbies FM pistol grip radio system :) with high-torque steering servo :rolleyes: ,-- tooth clutch bell, 45 tooth spur gear, aluminum bodied oil-filled shocks, photo-illustrated instruction manual.

Just have a look (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LNMPT0**&P=G) yourself, and comment!

[medicineman]

Tyler: An engine can last a very long time or may need to be rebuilt after a few gallons of fuel depending on what you're trying to get out of the thing. If your bashing around the house, a few percent loss in power is not really important. If your racing and want every last RPM you can get, then engine care comes into play. Many years ago when I used to race 1/8 scale (.21 size) the top drivers in the country would rebuild their engine after each days racing. I could never drive that good that the small difference mattered and I went out to have fun. If your idea of fun is sitting at the work-bench rebuilding engines and getting the best compression ratio, then by all means, rebuild. Otherwise tune the truck a little rich and it will last a long time. When you get good enough to need the extra performance, you will probably want a better truck. The ST-15 is great for the $$$ but it is by far not the BEST truck out there. My son has a Sport-MAXX and the engine is much higher performance. Of cousre the engine alone costs more than the ST-15 prebuilt.

If you know how tuned pipes work then they would be a good idea, if not read up on the subject. They are not an answer to all your power questions. If you have the money experiement with one, but it may not give you all you think it will. My opinion is that the 2 speed tranny is more effective for gaining speed.

True - do not run WOT for more than a few seconds as this will over rev the engine and cause damage. by WOT I mean with the wheels off the ground or the tranny dissconnected. YOu can run the engine at full throttle while driving for as long as you can control the car. The drag from the wheels will prevent the engive from over rev'ing.

The temp gauge is handy if you serious about you tuning, but I would get a hand held one so you're not stuck only on this truck. Sounds like you may be asking for something faster for Christmas!

Have you checked out the ROAR website for clubs in your area. I think you would benifit from a little racing experience. I don't have the site at my fingertips, so google ROAR and you'll find it. Ask anytime if you need help.

[rigrishracer22B]

before the races..............
Nice body

[adamzty]

Hey - I just ordered the tires today (dirt hawgs for the back and ribbed ones for the front), I also got some CA debonder and thin glue. I also got the DuraTrax ST 15 bearing set. I didnt goe the other bearings that the mentioned on the bearing set page though, do you think I should get those also?

I looked at the ROAR website, and there are no tracks in my STATE :mad: , so I dont think that I will be racing :mad:

Do you think the bearings will make it go any faster? I would of got the 2 speed transmission, but I didnt have enough money, and I had to place an order today because I had a coupon code for free shipping that expired today.

Thanks for all the information that you have given me, It has been VERY useful!!!

[adamzty]

I just finished painting the body! I painted it black, and I am going to put the decals on tomarrow!

When I was out running it, it kept stalling for no reason, I looked and I found out that the high speed needle was turning while I was running the truck :confused: I noticed one time that the needle wad almost 3/4 turn richer then I had set it. I have no idea how to fix this, could you please help me out???

Thanks again
Tyler

[medicineman]

glad to help tyler. Was the needle moving or the whole mechanism. Mine came loose with the vibration (typical with nitro models) as well as the motor mounts and steering bolts. If its the housing then use some lock-tite (make sure it's the kind that is not permanent). Great planes make a good one "threadlocker". If its the needle then there should be an O ring or something to hold it in place. I never took mine apart, but look at the engine part list, or call tower for assistance. There real good when it come to helping with their products.

What state do you live in that doesn't have any clubs. Let me know what big city you live near and I'll check with IFMAR and ROAR to see if I can find anything near you. Do not post your address!!!!!

The bearings will make the truck accelerate faster, and handle better. It will not really affect the top end. I have some of the set in, ut I can't figure out where all of them go. The same thing is true for the 2 speed tranny, no instructions. YOu will need to take apart the housing and clutch. It's not hard, you just need to remember how to put things back together. Have another person watching will help.

Please post pictures when you have the beast all decked out.

Did you notice any difference when you lowered the front shock mounts (you moved them to the bottom hole). I don't know whether to lower the shock mounts or buy better shocks, but I do need more action for the large jumps.

[adamzty]

I live in Pella, Iowa. I dont want to have to drive very far to get to a race track though! Thnaks for checking!

I will have to check the hsn and see if it is coming loose. I have some blue threadlock so I will threadlock it if it is.

the tires and bearings should be here in a few days! I will have to check some other forums and see where all of the bearings go.

When I lowered the shock mounts, I did notice that they had more resistince (I had to push down harder to get the shocks to compress. I eventually moved them back up because I dont go on any jumps. How do you jump? do you have a homemade ramp? the only place that I have jumped is off my curb. how high do you think I should jump without damaging the truck? I cant afford to damage it even a little bit.

I will post some pics when I get the body all done! Could you post some pics of yours?

Thanks
Tyler

[medicineman]

check out the pixs at the club we race at. The big jump is about 3 feet tall, so the trucks can get in excess of 4 feet off the ground. Al long as you don't hit the boards or another truck the jumps should do no damage. I would say a 1 foot jump would give you some practice in controlling the truck in the air. There is an entire art to how to keep the truck level by using brake and throttle while flying. Its a lot of fun.

The track is about 1.5 hours from our house so we only go once in a while, but it really make you focus on getting your truck running right. You should try it if even only once. Any freinds in your area have off road or monster trucks. Maybe you can set-up a track in your back yard. We use the baseball field at the school after the little league season is over. It's the right type of dirt and you can run an oval course with a couple of orange cones from Wal-mart. The pitchers mount makes for a small jump. Set up a course and practice going around as fast as you can. when you make changes to the truck you will see the changes in your lap times.

http://www.jacksonrcracing.com/index2.htm[/URL]

[Billabob91]

Hey Tyler,
I have the tuned pipe on my St 15, and there is no noticable speed increase, but it made the engine quieter, and it kind of sounds like my old Tmaxx with a pro .15

Also....

Does anyone know of a steel spur gear that fits the St 15?? I hit a curb once and the chassis bent, so now the clutch bell and spur gear don't line up right. I ruin a spur gear after almost each run. I was hoping that a steel spur would last longer. Thanks.
Bill

[medicineman]

Bill, Don't know anyone that runs a steel spur gear in RC racing. You need the plastic to give a little since you can't use lubrication. It may be cheaper to but a new chassis. Have you tried loosening the tranny and motor mount screws and getting the alignment correct that way. I had to re-align everything when I installed the 2 speed. There should be enough wiggle room.. Just remember to lock-tite the screws whenyou have everything in place.

[keebler]

Hey Tyler,
I have the tuned pipe on my St 15, and there is no noticable speed increase, but it made the engine quieter, and it kind of sounds like my old Tmaxx with a pro .15

Also....

Does anyone know of a steel spur gear that fits the St 15?? I hit a curb once and the chassis bent, so now the clutch bell and spur gear don't line up right. I ruin a spur gear after almost each run. I was hoping that a steel spur would last longer. Thanks.
Bill
here is a pic of an st-15 with the duratrax maximum mt steel gear!!!
notice you have to cut out part of the chassis!!! :D
"Not my st-15"...... :)
http://pic15.picturetrail.com/VOL602/2858173/5757831/91400060.jpg

[Billabob91]

thanks a lot!

[keebler]

Hey Tower Hobbies Fans;

Here you go; tower have a totally new Monster Truck!!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e345/oldGary/towc03.jpg

INCLUDES: TOWER Terror 1/10 scale monster truck with .25 cu in (4.0cc) engine :eek: with pull-starter, glow plug, tires, foam inserts, wheels, Tower Hobbies FM pistol grip radio system :) with high-torque steering servo :rolleyes: ,-- tooth clutch bell, 45 tooth spur gear, aluminum bodied oil-filled shocks, photo-illustrated instruction manual.

Just have a look (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LNMPT0**&P=G) yourself, and comment!

Single speed tranny and no reverse??? just about like the old 1/8 scale duratrax nitro quake??? only it's a 1/10 scale .it has to be "BAD" with that .25 engine...WOW.... :eek:
I would like to see it without the body. Do you know of any pics like that anywhere?
Sounds like a real good deal for that price.. :cool:

[adamzty]

Yes, I am kindof sorry that I spent my money on the ST 15 now that I see that I could get that for 100 more! that thing must be lots better then the st 15

[adamzty]

--Double Post--

[adamzty]

I got it out this morrin and it started after i held down the throttle half way. Then it died on me. I got it to start with out holdin down the throttle then it would move so slow it would go only 1mph if that then i tryed to adjust the low speed needle that did nothin but made it stall. Then i had a hard time startin it then i had to find the right spot for the low speed needle. After that it would just die then i mesed with the high speed needle that did nothin im not sure how to adjust the low speed needle. I mean how many turns from fully closed or open im not sure. Im thinkin im gona take this truck to my LHS and tell some one i can get it started and it just dies i think it has to do with the engine bein flooded or the high-low speed needle seting i hope some one can give me a hand im allso lookin to pick up a few things for my truck so i hope they wont charge for getin it to go. Im gona put fuel in the tank and bring everything to get it to go and see what they can do for me. Im kinda lost im out side today got it to start and it just wouldint go no were it was so slow not even movin and there was mostly fuel comin out of the muffler even when it was started. I couldint get it started befor it started ones then died. I guess im havin no luck. Most likey its flooded. what you guys think so i can get my crap to gether befor i go to the hobbie shop. Oh yea i got the glow starter to work :) ahhah the only good thing that happen for me

I am having the same think happen to me. I took the pull starter off to clean m engine, and the spring fell out. I put the spring back in, and I got it fixed, but ever since, I am having the same problem as you were. Did you get it fixed??? I am thinking about calling tower and seeing if they can get me a new engine or something. It says in the anual catalog that all tower engines have a 2 year warrenty, so should I try giving them a call?

Thanks
Tyler

[adamzty]

I dont mean to be rude but is anyone going to answer my questions???

[adamzty]

I am sending my engine in for repair tomarrow. It should be free because it is still under warrenty. I am hoping that I will get it back within 2 weeks!

[medicineman]

Sounds like you guys are having carb problems. Did you check to see if it has come loose. Mine did after about a gallon of fuel. Couldn't get the mixture set right and it wouldn't run. I reset the carb and tightened the screws and have had no problems again. Nitro cars undergo a lot of vibration, check all the screws regularly. I've had the servo saver come off the car and the steering mechanism come off the truck in a race.

As far as the MT is concerned, I think the Sport-MAXX from traxxis is a better buy. It has a high performance engine and 2 speed tranny. Our really flies. We've had it for over 8 months and nothing has broken yet. I'm a Tower fan, but the Sport-MAXX is impressive.

[adamzty]

Well, the parts to fix the engine are on backorder for a week. By that time I should have the digital temp meter and the tuned pipe that I ordered today. Hope I get the engine back soon and it runs good :D

Tyler

[medicineman]

Let me know how they work. I was thinking about changing the engine to an OS .12. The race version has a lot more power than the tower .15BB. I've been working on modifying the chassis to allow me to use a starter box. Parts should be here for the weekend. I'll post pictures if I can get it to work.

[Billabob91]

why not drop in an os .18, it should fit easily

[adamzty]

Its been a month since the last post :D :D :D

So did you get it to work medicineman???

[medicineman]

Sorry I've been out racing. The OS .18 is illegal at most tracks as you can run the RTR as is (.15) or a max of .12 is a new motor is installed. Had to take the 2 speed off as it too is illegal at my track. Speed is about the same, but the track is very technical and doesn't offer long straight aways. Getting traction is the main problem as I can keep up with the Losi's and Assoc Gt's, but they simple out handle me on the tight turns. Last week I took third out of 7 in the A main, but I was still two laps off the lead. It just seems that the ST-15 has a higher center of gravity, but I don't want to lower the shocks as I need all the throw to control the yips. Anyone with suggestions?

[germanrcracer]

Hey PPL,
U seem pretty smart about the ST-15! I have 3 electric RC cras All tamiya (Clod Buster, Rising Storm and Chevy S10) im wanting 2 upgade 2 NITROOO powerd cars and the St15 seem cheap and OK 4 a starter so if u have any great cheap suggjestions PLZ email me at dubkids@yahoo.de (sry about my spelling im german hehe) Thx a bunch!

[adamzty]

go for it man! I think the ST-15 is a good starter and its great for the price!

[germanrcracer]

so is there anything i have 2 check on it? Like the engine crap like that?

[adamzty]

I didnt check anything, it ran fine out of the box - Dont forget to break it in though :D

Question - I got a 5 cell reciever pack for my ST-15 instead of the 4 cell AA battery cage :D and I was wondering if moving it up frontsomewhere would be better than in the back. It seems that all the weight is in the back on this truck and my back end is almost always dragging on the ground. Also I want to make it easier to steer at higher speeds. I was thinking of just putting it under the reciever, do you think that would work? Or should I tru to get it centered as much as possible instead of off to one side?

Thanks
Tyler

[Stormbasher3100]

You could put the reciever pack pretty much anywhere it will fit. You can try to place it in the front but it will handle differently. You will notice more aggressive turning and less rear wheel traction on loose surfaces. Start with it at the front and adjust from there.

[adamzty]

The new battery pack is working great :D

I put it up front under the reciever and I notice that I can turn lots better nad the weight is more evenly distributed(sp?)

This battery pack is awsome - I was tired of replacing my AA batteries every 5 tanks of fuel, now I have gone through about 30 tanks of fuel and the battery pack is still over 6v on its first charge :D

[adamzty]

I was looking on TowerHobbies and noticed that the 2 white discs on the spur gear are called slipper pads and the metal things that hold the spur gear on are called slipper plates. I have it tightened up so this cant slip. Is it supposto(sp?) slip? I thought the slipper clutch was inside the clutch bell, am I wrong? Is the spur gear suposto(sp?) slip also?

[keebler]

I was looking on TowerHobbies and noticed that the 2 white discs on the spur gear are called slipper pads and the metal things that hold the spur gear on are called slipper plates. I have it tightened up so this cant slip. Is it supposto(sp?) slip? I thought the slipper clutch was inside the clutch bell, am I wrong? Is the spur gear suposto(sp?) slip also?

Yes, it should slip a little so it does not strip out your spur gear...but, not slip a lot just a little.There is no slipper clutch inside the bell,just the clutch shoes. It is the centrifical (sp?) clutch like in a small go-cart.

This is the adjustment for an rc10t car but, the settings are all about the same as far as I know.... :D hope this helps.. :o

TORQUE CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT. It is possible to
over-tighten the torque clutch. If you do, you may damage the
diff gears when landing off a jump. To prevent this, take your
time when making clutch adjustments. On a new or just-rebuilt
torque clutch, run the setting a little on the loose side for about
one minute before readjusting to race settings. It is important
to keep in mind that spinning the tires is not putting the power
to the ground. With a fully charged battery you should only
have about three to six inches of wheel spin (the tire actually
spinning across the top of the surface) to get maximum
advantage of the torque clutch. On a high traction surface you
can adjust the torque clutch a little tighter than you would on
a low traction surface. Remember: the purpose of the
clutch is to gain traction, not to break the tires loose.

[adamzty]

Oh Thanks :D So thats why I have gone through 8 spur gears, I couldnt figure out what was the problem...Thanks a lot!