Maximum ST/ST Pro forum

[BTE214]

I think (not sure) the reason the .15cvr is more expensive over the .12 is that more people buy the .12 because it's racing legal. That's my guess.

[dhutch]

yeah maybe, would i be able to race at all, with a .15

- not that im very racing orienatated (sp) - but i would like to got to a club when i find time to, just to have a bit-o fun racing round, against others like me

[2mcgrath]

tower hobbies accepted my money order last year so unless you've heard something new then they should still do the same for you. I have the same problem, no credit card. but my lhs offers cod for 8 bucks or something. that's what i do now.

ok cool i will just do a mail order at tower hobbies then.. thanks man..oh by the way alot of times not having a credit card can be a good thing :D

[dhutch]

also is it true the MAx ST has been discontiunded - cos that what it says on tower?

[megaman]

yes, its been discontinued because it has such insufficient parts in comparison to the Pro models...it has the better steering, the better axles, drivetrain, chassis, etc. so they decided just to discontinue it.

[dhutch]

yes, its been discontinued because it has such insufficient parts in comparison to the Pro models...it has the better steering, the better axles, drivetrain, chassis, etc. so they decided just to discontinue it.

- but tower says that even the MAX ST pro has been discontiued???

[Mustang/Chevy Killer]

well i have an st and it's the most durable truck i've ever owned. it's got the stock engine, steel spur gear, tuned pipe, and bearings throughout. i also run my stock engine with an os r5 glow plug with 20%fuel. well i just got a new carb for the engine the other day, put it one and ran about a half a tank or so through it. as i was running the truck it just died on me. i had this problem in the past where the washers that go inside the rims just get worn out that i had to replace them and i was all set. now i have the same problem and was wondering if anyone else has experienced this? it's sure frustrating when you get it all set to run and it doesn't move. could i have something loose inside the gearbox? i also replaced the wheel shafts as well so i know it's not those. what could be causing this? i'm gonna start with the washers again but i wanted to post this in lue of anyone having this type of problem before and could help me out. any info would be great and i do have to say that it sucks that tower discontinued the st. looks like we're gonna have to go to a hobbytown to get parts now. later, steve

[Are-see-truk]

You mean you can rev and rev and rev but it goes no-where? If so I have had that problem to, I thinks it's beacause the drive hex/nut is lose all i did was tighten the wheel nut until it's ALMOST as tight as it will go.
Be careful and don't strip a screw :)

[dhutch]

You mean you can rev and rev and rev but it goes no-where? If so I have had that problem to, I thinks it's beacause the drive hex/nut is lose all i did was tighten the wheel nut until it's ALMOST as tight as it will go.
Be careful and don't strip a screw :)

yeah, you need to tighten that good n hard!! - and if its been sliping quite a bit, you may need a need hex nut, cos it only alu, and it wares very fast, front ones dont need to be to tight, but the rear ones do!! - and its steel on steel, so you can swing quite hard on the nut (use a bigger wrench than the one that comes with the car) - also, the other thing it might be is you may have lost the grub screw outof the outdrives - the small crome "cups" on the ends of the diff, that the dogbones (driveshafts) fit into

[dhutch]

ok, a few days ago i majorly bent the chassis of my Max ST, the brace (that goes to the top of the gear box totaly bent :(
http://www.spurstow.com/daniel/photos/doh.jpg

so i decided to make a new brace, the wouldent bend (till i get a ti turnbuckle)
http://www.spurstow.com/daniel/photos/strut.jpg
i strightend out the chassis, and began to bash again :D

but today (after a bit of jumping), the brace riped the screw out of the gearbox, and the chassis bend again:(

SO... i had a look on tower and theres this uprated "hop up" chassis link (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG81&P=7)
Made of 2mm T6 grade aluminum for added strength and lighter weight
so i was wondering if any one has bought this?? - i meani it is actually THINER than the std chassis, but it sayes its tougher :rolleyes: (but is it??)

- any advise gratefull recived, Daniel

[2mcgrath]

can anyone post a pic of the rear body mounts while mounted to the truck so i can see what im looking for..when i got the truck it didnt have any

[dhutch]

see my car at (about 30 pics)
http://www.spurstow.com/rc

and i took some extras of the mounts for you.
http://www.spurstow.com/daniel/temp/bm1.jpg
http://www.spurstow.com/daniel/temp/bm2.jpg
http://www.spurstow.com/daniel/temp/bm3.jpg

as you can see, the set up mounts to the back of the gearbox, and is made up of 5 peices, - "square bit with the hole" - the wider bit on that - the long peice with the holes for the verticals, then the verticals (with additonal washer, which i have CAed on)

[dhutch]

these are the parts, from tower

"square bit with a hole"
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD312&P=M

All the other bits (including some duplicated parts)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD311&P=X

HOPE THIS HELPS - daniel

[2mcgrath]

thanks alot for the help

[2mcgrath]

mine is missing a bunch of that stuff

[Are-see-truk]

Hey, Dhutch what do you think the maximum SAFE height for jumping a Max MT would be? P.S. it is 2.7 inches of ground clearence.

[dhutch]

Hey, Dhutch what do you think the maximum SAFE height for jumping a Max MT would be? P.S. it is 2.7 inches of ground clearence.

well, i dont know really, i have jumped my ST about 1.5meters(ish)

- i find the problems are that if the chassis bottoms at hits thew floor as speed, i has a tendacy to bend up at the back, because the strut that goes from the top of the gearbox buckles :(

- i've orderd the T6 chassis and a tittauium replacement foir the stut, which i should get in a few weeks, so i'll see how that goes :p

- also, with you longer shocks, and high ground clearence, you might be better off :D

[Are-see-truk]

LOL :D yea, but thanks for the info.

[megaman]

haha...ive jumped my max over a toyota corolla. and before that, when the chassis was stock, i jumped it about as high as a fence...twice, becuase the first it landed right on its head...its tough it can hecka take it, dont trip.

[dhutch]

Have any one used foams on there max ST??

- cos i kinda fancied a go at making a street racer out of it

[67f100StPro]

What's up I've had my St Pro for about 3 years and run it hard. All in all it is a durable truck if the driver knows what he is doing. I have added a Parma 67 f100 body and it looks sweet. I'll post some pics later. The main fault I have seen is the rear a-arm mounts. Seems like everytime I flip one of the screw pins bends or rips out of the front block. I want to put some pins with e clips in there but haven't found any long enough. Has anybody here tried this? The pins for a Overdrive look like they might be long enough but it will be close. I have also bent the chassis twice but have straightened it. I was running the alum arms in the rear but have bent those about 4 times. Went back to plastic on the back for some more give. I have HPI 5 spoke rims with Proline Dirt Hawgs that look great. I have rebuilt the stock engine once and replaced the diff twice. The steel gears have stripped so I need another diff. Also the one way bearing is shot and the universals are wore out. I drive it hard and am very happy with it.

[dhutch]

I'll post some pics later

I have also bent the chassis twice but have straightened it

I have HPI 5 spoke rims with Proline Dirt Hawgs that look great

...I drive it hard and am very happy with it.
Pics :p!!

- are you still on the first (stock) chassis?? - did you bend the "chassis brace" - if so did you place it, if so with wat???

- also how do you like the dirt hawgs?? - im currently running with Imex claw dawgs, but im looking for a high profile tyre for grass use!! (claw dawgs are quite lowish) my tyre thread (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1417945)

anyway, glad you thrashing you max, to the max (like me - lol)

- daniel

[67f100StPro]

Right now it is in pieces until I order some parts. None of the LHS carry Duratrax parts so I have to get them form Tower :( . Yes I'm still using the original frame and when it bent the brace did not. It bent right where the raised edge ends in front of the motor if that makes sense. I like the dirt hawgs a lot but they are a little shorter than the stock tires so the top end is lowered a bit. I have run a little over 3 gallons of fuel since it was new and have used O'Donnell and Trinity. While it's down I am going to try to port the engine a little to increase power and hopefully get some more RPMs out of it. A friend at work just bought a 2.5 T-Maxx and I can hang with him but would like to beat him. :D :D

[dhutch]

Right now it is in pieces until I order some parts. None of the LHS carry Duratrax parts so I have to get them form Tower :( . Yes I'm still using the original frame and when it bent the brace did not. It bent right where the raised edge ends in front of the motor if that makes sense. I like the dirt hawgs a lot but they are a little shorter than the stock tires so the top end is lowered a bit. I have run a little over 3 gallons of fuel since it was new and have used O'Donnell and Trinity. While it's down I am going to try to port the engine a little to increase power and hopefully get some more RPMs out of it. A friend at work just bought a 2.5 T-Maxx and I can hang with him but would like to beat him. :D :D

yeah, i know where you mean (on the chassis) - mine bends the gearbox area up, so it bend accross the fly wheel hole etc, bendin the strut in 1/2!!!
- hence ording the the ti strut :p

- when you say the tyres are a little shorter, you mean smaller diameter?? -which it ok, cos i got 14T, 15T, 17T & 18T clutch bell for it (15T stock) for the tiny claw drags

- and i've order a OS CV-RX .15 - because the torq is nackerd!! - worn from 2gall and over heating (airleak:() - and i knock some of the head fins off (landing ass up - with a shot body)

[67f100StPro]

Yes the tires are about 1/2" smaller dia. I was thinking about a OS engine but can't come up with the cash right now (darn kids). Maybe when the Torq 16 is worn out I will get it.

[dhutch]

Yes the tires are about 1/2" smaller dia. I was thinking about a OS engine but can't come up with the cash right now (darn kids). Maybe when the Torq 16 is worn out I will get it.

yeah, i cant afford it, but i couldnt aford te car eather!! ;)

[67f100StPro]

Hopefully my ST will be back up theis weekend. I won a complete tranny and 2 speed gears on Ebay for $45.50. It has both spurs, the one-way, 2 spd clutch drum and the clutch assy. The tranny includes the brake, shock tower, and the drive cups. I also ported the sleeve a bit. Will post back with the results.

[dhutch]

Hopefully my ST will be back up theis weekend. I won a complete tranny and 2 speed gears on Ebay for $45.50. It has both spurs, the one-way, 2 spd clutch drum and the clutch assy. The tranny includes the brake, shock tower, and the drive cups. I also ported the sleeve a bit. Will post back with the results.
Smart!!
- I'd be interested how you find the 2 speed, becuse i've be debating whether to get it one day, but a lot of people say its stripes easyer :(

[67f100StPro]

Well they don't have the gear mesh set right. I love my 2 speed. It is awesome to hear it shift gears and sometimes it will pop a little wheelie when it shifts. My truck is over 3 years old and I still have the original spurs. Just set the mesh on the 1st gear with a piece of paper and it will be right. Don't try to put the paper between both sets of gears. I'd say get it, you won't be sorry. Towerhobbies.com has the entire setup for $43.00. Their part number is LXVU70 and the Duratrax number is DTXC9610. Also make sure you have the aluminum counter gear and the steel diff gears. Have you noticed that you and I are the only ones posting on this thread?

[megaman]

hey hey, the only reason your the ones posting in this thread is because my fuels out, and i have no money. i guess everyone else is just a bunch of quitters lol. but yeah, i managed to bum some fuel off of my bud, and we had a little session haha, he has a t-maxx 2.5 and i have a better top end, so i guess that means my engine is tuned for summer now, since i havent done anything since spring..i snapped one of the pins on one side of the cvd, it still works but it sucks. im just going to get a new diff and i need some out drives and now a set ov cvd's, which sucks big time. so now, i need money for fuel, and parts. oh well...good times.

[dhutch]

hey hey, the only reason your the ones posting in this thread is because my fuels out,

- my fuels out to, i might get down to my LMS today tho :D (i've been out of fuel fo 6weeks!!!)

I put together a wish list!! :p

**LMS* $0.40 zip bags
**LMS* $0.60 Exhast Gasget (x2)
LX2767 $0.95 Associated 4-40 Flat Washers
LXFEP9 $1.85 Ofna Fuel Line Tubing Blue 3'
LXSP13 $1.90 Foam Body Washers
LXSF70 $2.39 Associated Factory Team Green Slime
LXNL23 $2.69 DuraTrax Screw Set Motor Mount Maximum MST/MBX
LXD245 $2.99 DuraTrax Nylon Body Post Black 3.5" (2)
LXND13 $2.99 DuraTrax Shock Spring 1.3mm Yellow Maximum ST (2)
LXD320 $3.29 DuraTrax Bumper Front Maximum ST/BX
LXMZ18 $3.39 Associated Silicone Shock Oil 70 Weight
LXVG87 $3.39 DuraTrax Throttle Return Spring Maximum ST
LXBG14 $3.39 Motor Saver Pre-Filter Oil
LXTW30 $3.49 DuraTrax Round Head Machine Screw 3mm (25)
LXTW48 $3.49 DuraTrax Socket Head Machine Screw 3mm (8)
LXTW49 $3.49 DuraTrax Socket Head Machine Screw 3mm L (8)
LXBZT7 $3.79 Ofna Switch Cover Silicone
LXFHY1 $3.99 DuraTrax Pit Tech Tire Glue Medium 1/2 oz.
LXD362 $3.99 DuraTrax Pivot Ball Maximum ST/BX
LXFUR5 $4.29 Associated Locknut w/Flange M4 (20)
**LMS* $4.40 2mm Hex Driver
**LMS* $5.20 Circle Cutter (compass style thing)
LXEAL0 $5.69 Associated Body Scissors
LXEB12 $5.69 Racer's Choice Air Seal Carburetor Sealant
LXD368 $6.49 DuraTrax Screw Pin 23mm Maximum ST/BX (4)
LXD324 $6.79 DuraTrax Clutch Shoe Maximum ST/BX
**LMS* $7.50 Nitro cleaner spray
LXNS86 $8.59 Ofna 5000 Weight Silicone Oil
LXY749 $8.79 Lunsford Racing Turnbuckles 2-3/8" (2)
LXRP19 $9.99 DuraTrax Spur Gear 52T Metal Maximum MT
LB4171 $11.49 Pro-Line Masher 2000 Monster Truck (2)
LXD209 $12.99 DuraTrax Clutch Bell 14T
LXSP05 $13.99 x2 Traxxas Ti Turnbuckle 96mm T-Maxx (for Chassis strut)
LXAEE2 $17.99 DuraTrax Steel Differential Bevel Gear Set Maximum ST
**LMS* $18.00 Glow Plugs
LXDCG6 $19.99 DuraTrax Ultimate Body Reamer
LXDTB3 $23.99 Futaba S3010 Standard High-Torque Servo
LXCNR0 $24.99 DuraTrax CV Shafts Maximum ST/MT (2)
LXVG81 $34.99 DuraTrax Chassis 6061T6 Blue Maximum BX/ST/MT
**LMS* $60.00 Sidewinder 16% (1gal)
LXBHL2 $139.99 O.S. .15 CV-RX w/10ER Rotary Carb
TOTAL $504.29

- Some of which i might be able to buy (cost issues :()

- when you factor in the fuel (2nd most expensive thing) the engine suddenly seams cheaper! :rolleyes:

[rc man37689]

just added up how much i put into my max st...............

OVER $800!#@$@%$!@!!!!!!!!!!!!OMG!!!!! AHHHHHHHH

[dhutch]

yeah, lol, and how much was the car in first place?? - about £200?

- maybe, if we ( I ) had spent more on the car, and less on hop-ups!!!

[67f100StPro]

Well I got my parts today and the 2 speed is in great shape almost like new but the trans looks very worn. And it has the regular pot metal diff gears :(. Oh well I will run them till they break and buy some more. LOL on the money spent. I prob have over $700 in mine but its money well spent IMO. I paid $340 for my truck it was the RTR version. Should get it back together today or tomorrow. I'll tell you how it runs with the ported sleeve.

[Are-see-truk]

WOW, just wow I got my MT tuned just right (I found the sweet spot ;) ) and it FLY'S i couldnt believe it, because I only got to bash in the cold but now it's 24 Degrees Celcius, and running perfict.

The parts i would like to get are aluminum hubs and hub carriers front and back, 2 speed, tuned pipe, HIGHLY in need of new body (mines thrashed) and thats bout' it :) Darn, I need a job...

[67f100StPro]

Got my ST back up yesterday. Man I missed driving it! I can tell it has a little better top end since the porting but it didn't help the bottom end. Also had to richen it up a little to compensate for the extra air.

"The parts i would like to get are aluminum hubs and hub carriers front and back, 2 speed, tuned pipe, HIGHLY in need of new body (mines thrashed) and thats bout' it"

I would get the alum. hubs and tuned pipe first. With the 2 speed you lose the slipper clutch and your take off would suffer. I had MT wheels and tires on my ST and it took forever to gain speed but it had a awesome top end prob 40-44 mph.

[dhutch]

I would get the alum. hubs and tuned pipe first. With the 2 speed you lose the slipper clutch and your take off would suffer. I had MT wheels and tires on my ST and it took forever to gain speed but it had a awesome top end prob 40-44 mph.

- I got the AE tuned pipe, and i would like the Alu hubs too (but not alu wishbones)

- with the MT tyres, you will need a smaller clutch bell, to acount for the extra diameter tyres, somthink like 14 or 13 i would imagen (cant remember what comes stock with the MT :confused: )

- And, get yourself a new body ASAP, before it allows you to damage your insides :( (im in the process of molding my own body, see here (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158154) )

and finally, i just put in a $330 order from tower, including the OS .15 CV-RX, a new (T6) chassis, etc :p

[67f100StPro]

Yeah I had to use my stock clutchbell because of the 2 speed. I'm thinking of putting gears from a Overdrive ST on mine something like a 16T and a 20T. I wish I could drop $330 at once. It's kinda hard to do with a wife and 2 kids. Post some pics when you get it all together. Hopefully I can get some pics of mine soon.

[dhutch]

I wish I could drop $330 at once.
yeah, i cant really :(

- i saved all my money, for about 6years duing highschool (went to a weekly boarding school, and the was nothink to spend it on)

- so i hade about £500 ($1000) and i've spent most of it now, after a year of 6th from :eek: , so i now have very little money, and need to find a job :mad:

[Are-see-truk]

The MT comes with I think a, 12T or 13T clutch bell. It's either one of those...

But 67f100StPro if I were to order up the 4 shoe clutch it says your acceleration would be alot faster, so would it compensate for the loss of acceleration do to the 2 speed?

Thanks for the tip. :)

[67f100StPro]

You can try the 4 shoe but the ratio on 1st gear is 15/52 vs 13/52 and the 2nd gear ratio is 19/48. Nitrorc.com has a good article on clutch tuning I would check that out. It says if you lighten the shoes they will engage at a higher RPM where the engine is making more power. That might be better than getting a 4 shoe.

[dhutch]

can you not get a diffrent pair of clutch sets for the dual speed?

[megaman]

of course you can. and since your going to have the 15t clutchbell as appose to the 13t clutchbell, your going to want to get a clutch that will engage at a higher more powerfull rpm, and has plenty of stick, cause it wont do any good to have a late-engaging clutch, that slips. this way you wont really notice any change in the accell. and man on man...the last time i drove mine was forever and a day ago...actually a couple weekends ago when my friend hooked it up with some fuel. we were messing around and he has a 2.5 t-maxx. i have a 1 speed but he took me out on the take off, but i burned him on the top end.

[dhutch]

I just recived my tower order :D

- fitted the new chassis, chassis strut, harder rear springs/heavier rear oil (70w) and its 100x better :p the chassis it a lot stronger, as is the ti strut (now that i've stoped it poping off) and it jumps/handles 10times better with the harder/hevier shocks, and the blue chassis looks the dogs.

- i also have the CV-RX come any time now (it was shiped from a diffent depo) but i should have it for the week end :D when i'll also fit the new diff parts, top gear, spur and clutch nut (which where all bent/damaged with the chassis)

- pics when i get home, DANIEL

(also, i ahve my first driving lesson asap, as i was 17 today :p )

[megaman]

haha...yeah i have the same problem with the rear shocks, it seems like no matter what weight oil i have in the rear it bottems out too easy, right now i have 70w oil, and i still need some thicker stuff....they should make diff. pistons for these shocks.... and my chassis, you can tell its plenty strong, but im still going to upgrade to titanium turnbuckles (yes, i have them for home-made struts) so that i can keep the overall center of gravity lower, and make it stronger. just cause now that the chassis doesnt have the side gussets, it is a bit more flexible than i want it to be, so i need to devise something to make up for the lateral flex. any hints? hell...maybe ill just make a carbon upper deck...that would be sweet.....

[67f100StPro]

I finally took some pics of my R/Cs. Here is the link:

http://www.geocities.com/dean_n_lisa/67stpro.html

Had to replace 2nd gear too because I stripped it. As soon as it shifted it stripped. First time I had to replace a spur. A buddy at work gave me a whole bunch of electric stuff including a original gold tub chassis RC10 buggy that is about 70% complete, about 12 motors, 3 battery packs, and some other tools and parts. He used to race pan cars and needed to get rid of some stuff to make room for his racing go kart.

[dhutch]

haha...yeah i have the same problem with the rear shocks, it seems like no matter what weight oil i have in the rear it bottems out too easy, right now i have 70w oil, and i still need some thicker stuff....they should make diff. pistons for these shocks...

- yeah, IMO the shocks are also to short, there about 1/2 the lenght of any other offroad shocks :(

- any way, i got some up-to-date photos of my car now

here wee go, >>> PHOTOS <<< (http://www.spurstow.com/daniel/pages/rc_mods.htm)

[67f100StPro]

My truck is starting to eat 2nd gear now. I have already put 3 spurs on it. What gives? It shifts about 5 times before they are gone. The mesh is right and nothing looks bent. First gear looks great. Started eating 2nd after I put the new tranny on. I'm going to tear it all down and check everything. Any ideas to why it only strips 2nd? Its very aggravating to put a brand new gear on and have it strip in the first 5 mins.

Nice pics Dhutch. :cool: I was thinking of getting a rx pack getting tired of the alkalines.

[dhutch]

My truck is starting to eat 2nd gear now. I have already put 3 spurs on it. What gives? It shifts about 5 times before they are gone. The mesh is right and nothing looks bent. First gear looks great. Started eating 2nd after I put the new tranny on. I'm going to tear it all down and check everything. Any ideas to why it only strips 2nd? Its very aggravating to put a brand new gear on and have it strip in the first 5 mins.

Nice pics Dhutch. :cool: I was thinking of getting a rx pack getting tired of the alkalines.
Sorry, i cant help you with the spur problem really, as i havent had any exprence with any 2 speed really, and i dont have a problem with my spur (single speed, w/plastic spur) are you racing onroad, or are you jumping etc, becuase i know jumping (and landing @ WOT) kills the 2nd gear spur, wish i caould help more :(

- anyway, my CV-RX arived yesterday(with a £26 customs chrage:(), i have fitted it etc and im about to run her in now :p

http://www.spurstow.com/daniel/photos/RC11.jpg

[67f100StPro]

Well they don't have the gear mesh set right. I love my 2 speed. It is awesome to hear it shift gears and sometimes it will pop a little wheelie when it shifts. My truck is over 3 years old and I still have the original spurs. Just set the mesh on the 1st gear with a piece of paper and it will be right.


I guess that's what I get for running my mouth LOL :rolleyes: . Oh well, I have ordered 3 more spurs from Tower they should be here early next week. In the meantime I'm going to tear her down and try to find out what is wrong.

[dhutch]

yeah, lol, its always the way :D

[dhutch]

gone a bit quiet here!


- anyway, now that i've got my CV-RX run in and tuned im out looking at clutches, has anyone else fitted a "hoped up" clutch to there MAX ST??

daniel

[67f100StPro]

Yeah I have been away for a while working on my spur issue. I think the engine has been moving a little even though I tighten the screws to near stripping and use loctite. I'm gonna try some star lock washers and see if that helps. Also I broke a u-joint Sunday evening :( . Time to upgrade to CVDs. Also my P/S is getting worn out. I swear this truck is going to dollar me to death LOL. It needs $60 worth of parts to be back up and running. I think I'm going to focus on the wife's Stampede for a while and let Ole Blue sit and rest. Funny thing is it was running great until I put the Ford body on :D :D

[67f100StPro]

Well I can't let it rest. Just ordered a set of CVD's, P/S, better cooling head(mine looks like a Torq 12 head), and a glowplug. Comes up to $70 incl. s/h from tower. Will post again when it's broken in.

[dhutch]

well, im waiting for the clutch shoes, a new clutch nut, and somnew body mounts

- then im looking a set of prolines masher 200's,
- and maybe the CVDs

The other problem im having is with the rear wishbones etc, the problems are - firstly, theres a whole load of play developing in the hinge between the hub carrier and the wishbone ends (just beacuse the plastic is so soft) and i cant think of anythink to do :confused:except get the alu parts, and although i might get the alu hubs, alu wishbones wont last more than a few bad jumps, and i cant afford the $22 of wishbone every time i jump
- also, i get ripping the rear wishbones off the chasiss, you know the little peices that go eather side of the gearbox, - i keep ripping the hole open, and they dont even make alu ones of them !!

daniel

[67f100StPro]

Yep I know exactly what you are talking about. I know I have broken at least 5 sets of those suspension mounts. I have about 3 sets right now in my toolbox just in case. I had the alu arms but have switched back to plastic because I have bent the alu pieces and straightend them several times. The alu hubs will help you a lot and I have found they are pretty strong. Also I am using some Associated hinge pins with the e-clips on the arm-hub joint http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000132199&I=LX3172&P=K . They are a lot stonger than the stock screw pins but you have to drill the holes in the arms and hubs to 1/8" I have tried to find some hinge pins for the arm-chassis joint but none are long enough. The closest ones I have found are for a Duratrax Overdrive ST. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAZL5&P=0 I may just get them and see if they fit.

[dhutch]

Yep I know exactly what you are talking about. I know I have broken at least 5 sets of those suspension mounts. I have about 3 sets right now in my toolbox just in case. I had the alu arms but have switched back to plastic because I have bent the alu pieces and straightend them several times. The alu hubs will help you a lot and I have found they are pretty strong. Also I am using some Associated hinge pins with the e-clips on the arm-hub joint http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000132199&I=LX3172&P=K . They are a lot stonger than the stock screw pins but you have to drill the holes in the arms and hubs to 1/8" I have tried to find some hinge pins for the arm-chassis joint but none are long enough. The closest ones I have found are for a Duratrax Overdrive ST. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAZL5&P=0 I may just get them and see if they fit.

so you think the rear hubs (alu) are worth it, maybe i might get a pair - just a shame there 4 times the price :(

- also, with the AE pins (that need a 1/8" hole) - have you not had problems with them pulling thrugh the end of the bones?? - its just 1/8" looks quite big !!

- if you get them pin, i me interested in how they go - i'll have an other look around as well.


thanks daniel

[67f100StPro]

- also, with the AE pins (that need a 1/8" hole) - have you not had problems with them pulling thrugh the end of the bones?? - its just 1/8" looks quite big !!



The stock pins are close to 1/8" so the holes don't need to be drilled a lot. Mabey 1/32" bigger if that much. The e-clips secure the pins on both ends instead of one end like the stock screw pins. That make the whole assembly stronger. Also drilling them will take away any play so you may not need new hubs.

[dhutch]

The stock pins are close to 1/8" so the holes don't need to be drilled a lot. Mabey 1/32" bigger if that much. The e-clips secure the pins on both ends instead of one end like the stock screw pins. That make the whole assembly stronger. Also drilling them will take away any play so you may not need new hubs.
yeah, i thought about the bigger holes taking up the slack

- as i look tower, to day (every single Hinge/Screw Pin) - found a few other things, but nothink 100% yet, i found a some nice one from trinity, with threads - perfect, if there was some the right size!! linky (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=Trinity+Hardened+Pin&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go)

anyway, im off to my LMS soon, so i'll ask around :)

daniel

[dhutch]

well, today i did a few speed tests,

Distance:50
Average speed (ten runs) : 31.52MPH
Fastest run (max speed) : 36.45MPH

- thats with the imex claw dawg tyres, and a 17T clutch bell, and no body

- then i put the 18T spur on and it seams to be running well with that (the torq .16 couldent really pull the 18T) - so tomorrow im going to cut the hole in the new body and see if i cant get 40MPG out of her :p


daniel

[dhutch]

well, i went out again today (with a 18T bell)

- first run i hit a huge rock at WOT, which sen the car spining though the air onto the verge - where i landed a pulled the rear wichbone out, lost the dirvshaft, and the air filer flow off, but i fixed it back up, and off i went agian

- second run, fine no problems, 25m in 1.38secs

- third run, when up on to the verge (no curbes on our road) and came off without a drive shaft :( - couldent find it - didnt have a spare, so, that was the end (will order 1 asap to moz)


________________________________________________


but, 25m in 1.38 sec is 18ms which is 40MPH!! (65.22km/h)

- so, not bad at all, IMO - i'll have to get a that stream lined shell idea finished!!!

http://www.spurstow.com/daniel/temp/RC%20stats1.jpg


daniel

[megaman]

Those are some impressive speeds there homie, I think that's about what I'm getting with a 15 tooth clutch bell and my masher 2k's, I'm not entirely sure, but i was able to take out a T-maxx. Right now I'm buying new tires and I'm also going to run an 18t clutch bell, im just trying to make the truck lighter, and hopefully faster. Plus since I'm getting some good race tires, I'm hoping to do some damage at the local races...With a duratrax. We'll see. Wish me luck.

[dhutch]

Those are some impressive speeds there homie, I think that's about what I'm getting with a 15 tooth clutch bell and my masher 2k's, I'm not entirely sure, but i was able to take out a T-maxx. Right now I'm buying new tires and I'm also going to run an 18t clutch bell, im just trying to make the truck lighter, and hopefully faster. Plus since I'm getting some good race tires, I'm hoping to do some damage at the local races...With a duratrax. We'll see. Wish me luck.

yeah, im wishing

- i have a simular plan, except im puting the 15T back on, fitting some mashers, seting the ride hight backup and going racing like that :p

daniel

[megaman]

Why don't we just trade? That would be alot easier, lol.


No, really.

Haha, anyways, I'm just waiting for the parts to come in, I already ordered them, and lucky me, they had the Daily Sale on Towerhobbies: TRC race tires for 7 bucks. I don't remember what they were called but they were like the Fuzzy T's. Score. =P

[Are-see-truk]

Hey all,

I was out bashin' my Max MT with a friend and his truck was just flyin' up this big hill, So when i try to "fly up it" my truck just slows down but the engine is still at the same RPM's as when I was going fast.
But, i already tightened the slipper clutch a turn or two.
So I guess the question would be: Should I tighten my Slipper Clutch even more or to the tightest it will go?

Also my friends slipper clutch is the tightest it will go. I also dont care if I have traction issues, I just want ALL of the power to the wheels :p

Thank you.

[dhutch]

You need to find out where its slipping, if it isnt the slipper, tighening that wont help!!

- If i had to guess it might be the hex drives that har slipping, these are the little aluminum hex shaped washers that fit inside the wheel, these fit over the (tapered)stub axles, and transfer the power the the wheels, so if the wheels arnt done up tight enough, they'll slip, and iff they have been slipping a lot, they might have worn, so if you can get it to lock - your need a new pair, $3,99 from tower < http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD332&P=7 >

- also, it might be you clutch (on the end of the engine) thats slipping, in which case, take the clutch bell off (unbolt spur, remove "E" clip from the end of the engine shaft, and the clutch bell should just lift off) and lightly "scuf" the 3 shoes and the inside of the bell with some fine sandpaper/emery cloth - degrease them and put it back as it came.

if your not sure where is sliping, hold the truck by it wheels and rev it (only for a second, or your'll wareout what evers sliping, see what happens:-

- if the clutch bell/spur gear stays still, its the clutch.

- if the Clutchbell/spur turns, but the nut and spring holding the spur (slipper) does not, its the slipper that slipping

- if the clutch/spur/gearbox/outdrives/and eather of the driveshafts are turning (only the wheel isnt, its the hex drives, and you need to tighten down the wheels (quite tight/but dont got strip the threads)


hope this helps, post back if you need to

- daniel

[67f100StPro]

Also it could be a stripped counter gear of stripped diff gears. If you hold the truck and give it gas and the spur turns but the outdrives don't, them you will need to make sure both set screws securing the outdrives are tight. If they are tight, then you will need to disassemble the tranny to see what's broke. I would guess the diff gears are stripped if they have never been replaced with the steel parts. Also it would be a good idea to install the aluminum counter gear if it doesn't have one. My ST Pro came with a alu gear not sure about the MT.

here is the complete diff with the steel gears
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAEE3&P=0

alu counter gear
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG88&P=0

These parts make the tranny pretty much bulletproof.

[dhutch]

Also it could be a stripped counter gear of stripped diff gears. If you hold the truck and give it gas and the spur turns but the outdrives don't, them you will need to make sure both set screws securing the outdrives are tight. If they are tight, then you will need to disassemble the tranny to see what's broke. I would guess the diff gears are stripped if they have never been replaced with the steel parts. Also it would be a good idea to install the aluminum counter gear if it doesn't have one. My ST Pro came with a alu gear not sure about the MT.

yeah, it could be the gearbox, but thats unlikely, it eather work or it doesnt, same with the outdrives, but worth looking at

- also, my ST (non pro) came with the alu countergear, and i think, the MTs do - steel diffgears are worth it to - replace them when the alu one get "lumpy" and start the ware haevily

[Are-see-truk]

Ok, thanks for the help, I'll try those things today but, I know for sure that the spur gear spins because I had the body off at the time/times.

It MIGHT be the hex drives because I havent tightend the wheel nuts in a while :o so I'll post up if i can't solve the problem.

Thanks guys/girls.

O yea, one more thing, if my slipper is slipping would it be ok if I thighten it until it wont tighten anymore? Because, my friends truck has it completely tight.

[dhutch]

no, locking the slipp is ok you might go though spurs a bit, but i run with a locked slipper - and its ok, so far i've only done in one spur, and that allready had one missing tooth, so that was proberble the cause!!

[67f100StPro]

yeah, it could be the gearbox, but thats unlikely, it eather work or it doesnt, same with the outdrives, but worth looking at


I disagree. When my diff failed (it has failed 3 times) it gave no warning. The truck just stopped moving. The first two times it had the alu gears and the teeth broke off. The third time it had the steel gears and the plastic mounts for the two spider gears broke. The steel gears are still okay just the housing is trashed. I also had a outdrive come loose and that didn't give any warning. Same symptom as a stripped diff but I could see the output shaft spinning inside the outdrive. Well anyways I have started break-in and everything seems good. And those chrome CVD's look great!

[dhutch]

I disagree. When my diff failed (it has failed 3 times) it gave no warning. The truck just stopped moving.

- yeah, but (correct me if im wrong) hes truck still moves ok on the flat, it just doesnt have much torque to the wheels, and like you say, the diff is very much all or nothink (its eather griping or not)

daniel

[67f100StPro]

I guess he didn't say if it still moves ok on flat ground, so either one of us could be right. I was prob looking too far in to what he was saying :rolleyes: so you are prob right. I have a bad habit of thinking I know everything lol :D :D . So Are-see-truk please give a little more info to clear this up.

[dhutch]

yeah, well, im not trying to be smart eather - dam i hate people who think there smart and cant admit to being wrong :D

- im just trying to help ;)

[Are-see-truk]

Yup dhutch, I just had to tighten the slipper a few turns and tighten up those wheel nuts :o And yes, it moves well on flat but not much torque before the problem was resolved.

Thank you, 67f100StPro and dhutch.

Oh, sorry for lack of info. :o I was just out dialing it in at a friends house...
So problem solved. :)

[megaman]

Well, lol, this looks interesting. I think that I'll try to sum up what these guys are saying (or how I percieve it) and say that you should just TIGHTEN EVERYTHING down, and see what gives. First you should tighten down the things that could wear out, which would be the hexes (why I did the pin drive conversion) and usually, it's the right side becuase of the direction that it spins, and what happens is that comes loose, and then the diff unloads and you can't tell what's going on. Tighten both of the sides though. Second You should tighten the slipper clutch, I know you already tightened it but just to get it out of the way. Last you should tighten the outdrives, those are the last simple thing that could've gone wrong. If it doesnt work then well...You need to do some work. look at the condition of all the gears, and if nothing looks good then take apart the diff.

[67f100StPro]

yeah, well, im not trying to be smart eather - dam i hate people who think there smart and cant admit to being wrong :D

- im just trying to help ;)

I was wrong <---how's that LOL. Just trying to throw all the possibilites on the table so nothing gets overlooked. Sorry for the confusion :confused: on my part.

[dhutch]

:confused: - im not trying to say that your thinking your smart :eek:

- im not trying to put you down at all!!!! - sorry if you took that the wrong way !!

[67f100StPro]

Hey no prob. We are all here to share info and help keep these ST's running. I just finished break-in on mine and so far so good. Now I just need to tune for power and let her fly! Also I am going to replace the motor mount screws with some 4mm x 20mm bolts and star lock washers. Hopefully that will cure my spur gear problem for good.

[dhutch]

Hey no prob. We are all here to share info and help keep these ST's running. I just finished break-in on mine and so far so good. Now I just need to tune for power and let her fly! Also I am going to replace the motor mount screws with some 4mm x 20mm bolts and star lock washers. Hopefully that will cure my spur gear problem for good.

- yeah, the weather here has been a bit hit-n-miss, so i havent been out enough - and also i've been trying to get hold of another PC etc etc


- try and get some driving done this w/end

[rc man37689]

well i bought orion mounted fresh kick and .... well ..... they did fit :( . i look all over the internet and saw that they would fit....they where TOTALLY different. returning to tower and might get different ones (sigh) :(

[Are-see-truk]

Hey guys I was wondering what shock settings do you use on your Duratrax Max Mt/St because mine bottoms out from dropping it about a foot or so off the ground....So should i change where my shock is mounted on the A-arm or the shock tower or both and should I make my springs stiffer with the sdjuster on the shocks???

Thanks

[dhutch]

i use 70wt oil and the (harder) yellow springs in my ST, its better, but it still bottoms somtimes, so i might get the next harder springs and some 90wt oil in a bit

-the problem is the shocks are so tiny!!

[Are-see-truk]

Well, the Max MT shocks are big and I have the thicker orange springs on the back...So before going out and getting some 70WT shock oil I may play around with the shock mounting positions to see if i can get the same effect, I doubt it buts its worth a try.

I also got an order placed on tower for some CV's because I lost a dogbone and decided to upgrade plus I orderd some berings.

Also would T-Maxx wheels/rims fit on the MT/ST???

Thanks for all the help :)

[megaman]

Yes, they would fit, in fact there is a company that makes hexes specifically designed for this, but I don't remember this, I'll get it for you if you want. But I don't think it would be a good idea, it would make the truck way heavy, add stress to the susp. components; axles; shock towers, and massively slow it down.

As for me! I'm taking my truck completely apart and I'm going to spend some cash renovating it =). I'm also going to uhh...throw all the parts into the dishwasher cause I don't want to hand clean them all =P It is safe right? lol.

[67f100StPro]

Finally got my ST back up and running good. I also got a temp gun for tuning. I ran today and temps were around 210-220 at the plug with 3 turns out on the HSN. The ambient temp was around 90 with about 70% humidity. What is the best place to measure the temps and what should they be? I used to tune by sound but sometimes it would run too hot. Also the dishwasher shouldn't hurt anything but I wouldn't use any detergent. The rinse cycle should do fine.

[Are-see-truk]

Naww its okay if it just gonna' slow it down massively then theres no point haaa. But thanks for the information :)

Also for the temps I do what I call the "touch" test- if I cant hold my finger on the heatsink for no more then about one point five seconds its too hot :p

But I have it at THEE perfect needle setting it will go fast as a bat outta' hell...well not really but its quite fast and not be running hot.

Also the stupid little can muffler- would the engine run better with or without the blue exhaust diflector???

[chorke111]

hey, ive had my rc truck for a while, and i was wondering if anybody knew how to set up the truck to be able to have a slide valve carborator. i know that you have to have to servo in a different place on the chassis, what i need to know is if its possible with the maximum trucks and what parts i would need to replace or move in order to do this. any help would be much appreciated. :cool:

[Are-see-truk]

Hey welcome to the boards.

I've got an idea on how to do the lincage and servo setup but since its hard to explain I'll have to do a little drawing in paint...and I dont know how to post pics so if you have an E-mail adress you could Private Message me your E-mail then I could send it to ya' or if you have MSN that would be great.

Yes i think it would be possible to have that setup and you could probably use the same lincage.

Do you have an MT Pro, St Pro, MT or St?

[chorke111]

i have a mt, and my email is chorke1987@hotmail.com

[megaman]

Hey welcome to the boards.

I've got an idea on how to do the lincage and servo setup but since its hard to explain I'll have to do a little drawing in paint...and I dont know how to post pics so if you have an E-mail adress you could Private Message me your E-mail then I could send it to ya' or if you have MSN that would be great.

Yes i think it would be possible to have that setup and you could probably use the same lincage.

Do you have an MT Pro, St Pro, MT or St?
If you look you'll see that there are extra slots kinda next to the fuel tank, you move the servo there and it'll be inline with the engine, then you can use the extra linkage that came with the Maximum (If you got the prebuilt) and set it up that way.

[chorke111]

yeah, i see that thanks, i just need to get the different linkage from somewhere i guess, you think towerhobbies will have it?

[megaman]

It would but you don't need to waste your time to buy linkage, all it is is metal. Just find a coathanger, bike spoke, or rebend your other linkage, it's hecka easy, just get the servo where it goes, you have to take out the chassis brace by the way, but then reconfigure your linkage to make it work.

[chorke111]

yeah, i was looking at the chassis brace, do i just say screw it or do i just like make something that looks like it works but really doesnt.

[megaman]

If you make something that only looks like it works,what good does it do? I think you should figure out a way to mount a turnbuckle from the servo mount to the tranny, similer to the way I have mine mounted. That would be your best bet and it would still prevent the chassis from flexing enough to strip your gear. Sorry it took me so long to answer.

[chorke111]

thanks, but wow this forum died

[67f100StPro]

I don't think it has died, just there are not that many people with this truck.

[67f100StPro]

Just got a new chassis for my St today. Got it from eBay from a seller called MooneyezRC. Brand new T6 with the steering bellcranks for $36. Looks like he parted out a new truck b/c it had screw impressions on the bottom. He has a whole lot of Maximum parts for cheaper than tower. Just thought I'd let everyone know.

[67f100StPro]

Just got done test driving my St and so far so good. Two tanks and no stripped gears. The old chassis had bent a couple of times and made it weaker around the engine. I was testing the radio one day and saw the clutchbell move down a little when the throttle was opened. This was with the stock servo. If the servo could flex the chassis, imagine how much it flexed during driving. So I hope the new chassis will finally solve my spur problem. L8er

[dhutch]

yeah, the chassis do flex a little, and the servos are pritty powefull when they get to the end of there movment (due to the mechanical advantage of moving with circular motion)

- the T6061 Chassis is a little stiffer, which mainly halp it not bend when you land badly off a jump (ie when you bottom out the rear)

- i had a bit of a problem with this, hard shock oil/springs helps is not bottom out, and i recomend you replace the chassis strut with a Ti one - because if it bend, which it can, it allows the whole chassis rear to bend up, which alows tends to bend the top gear and your clutch nut

daniel

[67f100StPro]

Whats up Daniel. Which strut are you using for the brace? I cant find any Ti struts for this thing. Also I believe my original chassis was T6 b/c it is a St Pro and it has a 6 stamped into it in the same place as the new one. I think beating it straight with a hammer weakened it. I have had to straighten it out 3 times LOL. I don't really jump my truck b/c it tends to nose dive badly and it ends up flipping end over end. Also I have added a new shock mount which puts the shocks more vertical than angled so the shocks bottoms out before the chassis hits the ground.

Dean

[dhutch]

Whats up Daniel. Which strut are you using for the brace? I cant find any Ti struts for this thing. Also I believe my original chassis was T6 b/c it is a St Pro and it has a 6 stamped into it in the same place as the new one. I think beating it straight with a hammer weakened it. I have had to straighten it out 3 times LOL. I don't really jump my truck b/c it tends to nose dive badly and it ends up flipping end over end. Also I have added a new shock mount which puts the shocks more vertical than angled so the shocks bottoms out before the chassis hits the ground.

Dean
I use some Traxus turnbuckles, i think there the trackrods of the T-max or somthink, i just looked though Tower till i found some that where about the right lenght for the job.

- i'll get you a link now

[edit]
Ok, there the "Traxxas Turnbuckles Titanium 96mm T-Maxx (2)" (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP05&P=7)
- which are off the OLD T-max


hope th's helps, daniel

[Are-see-truk]

Whew, what a trip. I just got back from the USA, and bought a bunch of RC stuff.

I got: Trinity 70 Weight Shock oil, Glow starter anodized red with a meter, and its rechargable, Parma Chevrolet Step-side Body, Dynamite Exhaust manifold which doesnt fit :mad: , and a Dynamite Tuned pipe which sounds awsome.

Also, should i try and bend the manifold so i could get the tire on, or would i be better off buying a whole new manifold?

AND...to put the new oil in the shocks could i drain them out, then blow the rest of the oil out with a compressor and put the new stuff in? Thanks.

[chorke111]

ok, so if the clutch slips, to the point that the car doesnt move at all, whats the best way to increase the friction so it will power the car?

[67f100StPro]

are you sure the clutch is slipping? If it is the clutch you can take the clutch bell off and stretch the clutch spring a little. That will make it weaker and will engage at a lower RPM. But if the spur gear turns when you give it gas the clutch isn't slipping. These trucks have known idler and diff gear problems and the drive hexes will slip if not fully tight. You are going to have to start at the spur and find out what is slipping.

[dhutch]

You need to find out where its slipping, if it isnt the slipper, tighening that wont help!!

- If i had to guess it might be the hex drives that har slipping, these are the little aluminum hex shaped washers that fit inside the wheel, these fit over the (tapered)stub axles, and transfer the power the the wheels, so if the wheels arnt done up tight enough, they'll slip, and iff they have been slipping a lot, they might have worn, so if you can get it to lock - your need a new pair, $3,99 from tower < http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD332&P=7 >

- also, it might be you clutch (on the end of the engine) thats slipping, in which case, take the clutch bell off (unbolt spur, remove "E" clip from the end of the engine shaft, and the clutch bell should just lift off) and lightly "scuf" the 3 shoes and the inside of the bell with some fine sandpaper/emery cloth - degrease them and put it back as it came.

if your not sure where is sliping, hold the truck by it wheels and rev it (only for a second, or your'll wareout what evers sliping, see what happens:-

- if the clutch bell/spur gear stays still, its the clutch.

- if the Clutchbell/spur turns, but the nut and spring holding the spur (slipper) does not, its the slipper that slipping

- if the clutch/spur/gearbox/outdrives/and eather of the driveshafts are turning (only the wheel isnt, its the hex drives, and you need to tighten down the wheels (quite tight/but dont got strip the threads)


hope this helps, post back if you need to

- daniel

to save writing it all, hope ^that^ helps you locate your drive problem chorke

[chorke111]

ok thanks, i know its the clutch slipping because i can see the flywheel spinning but the clutch bell just sits there. also if i just let it sit there, with the flywheel spinning but the clutch bell not, after a while the clutch bell starts to smoke, which i know is not good, so i turn the car off, i think i got some sort of liquid inside the clutchbell, the engine is getting old and is starting to throw a bunch of, im assuming gas all over the car. but thanks, ill try the scratching thing.

[dhutch]

yeah, and make sure you get some Nitro cleaner or somthink on then, get them clean

- do you still have the torq .12 or .16 in it?


and im out of fuel ATM, so last night i striped the gear box, rearshocks and the front bunk head - and i'll be doing the front shocks, radiogear (inc new searing servo and regluing some of the tyres tonight - and i think i'll get thos proline masher and the CVDs thats i've always wanted :p

[dhutch]

also, has anyone tryed the "Steering Bellcrank Aluminum Blue Maximum MT/ST" (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG85) (aka the alu stearing linkages)

beacuse im having trouble with the plastic ones wareing out, but i dont want to spend $28 without knowing it will be better/not bend etc


thanks daniel

[67f100StPro]

I have the alu bellcranks on mine and they are well worth the $28 IMO. They are a lot better than the plastic pieces and have 6 bearings in the setup so they are smooth as a baby's behind. Also the CVDs are well worth the money. They are a lot smoother than the standard universals and the threaded portion is about 5 mm longer so the wheels stay more secure. Well after installing the new chassis I am still having the spur problem but the flex is gone. Me and a buddy at work were brainstorming today and came up with a possible cause. First gear is on a one way bearing and when it shifts to 2nd the first gear is supposed to free-wheel. Well we were thinking if the one way bearing was getting jammed it will be in 1st and 2nd at the same time and 2nd is getting chewed up. What do you guys think? It's kinda like a car with a broken shift fork. The trans binds b/c it is in 2 gears and the weakest part breaks.

Chorke it may be time for some new clutch shoes. Scratching them up will buy some time but you will have the same problem. I think they are less than 10 bucks at Tower. Also my truck used to get oil everywhere and I found out the muffler gasket was split. Three bucks at Tower and I got 2 gaskets. A little oil from the front bearing is normal. :cool:

[chorke111]

ok, ill try all that, thanks guys, and dhutch i still have thetorq 16 in it, it sucks,i am hoping to change that soon.

[dhutch]

yeah, i've never yet used a set of shoes tho - there fairly hardwaring

- if you geting a huge about of oil, try and find out from where, like 67f1000stpro says, i always had trouble the muffler sealing, keeped geting lose and riping gasgets, made sure its on 100% and the gasget is good#


also, thanks 67f1000stpro, i think i might get them, i want to be a sure as i can be that they wont bend!!! (might the CVDs as well)

- looking at the picture it seams that the "two peice left bellcrank" doesnt have the servo savers built into it like on the plastic one, but instead theres a servo mounted saver, it that right?

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dtxc9450.jpg

[67f100StPro]

You are right there is a a servo mounted saver. The alu bellcranks have no flex in them and really tighten the steering up a lot. Gonna put in a Tower order for the one way bearing and some more spurs. Man this crap is getting old I'll be down for at least 10 days :mad: Also when I install my muffler I put a drop of loctite in the holes on the muffler instead of putting it on the screws. This keeps all the loctite where it needs to be instead of in the block where the screws pass through. I also put star lock washers on the screws and I have no problems with them working loose. But removing them can be a pain :rolleyes:

[dhutch]

yep, well i was at my 2ndary LMS (LMS guys on holidays, so that shops shut)

- but i still spent over £50, and didnt get all i needed

i got 2gallons of fuel (£18 each)
shrink wrap (about £5)
2m hex wrench (over £7.50)
and some foam body washers (£1.75)

- didnt get, 6mm ball end balls (for the bottom of the shocks) and i also didnt get the part that the rear-upper turnbuckles go on to

- so im still not sure i can run, because of the upper turnbuckle bit, its weak and keeps letting the drive shafts out :(


ah well, i guess if it always work i'd have nothing to do :P

[dhutch]

oh and i got some screws as well, going to have a go at counter sinking the undereanth screws

- got all the screws i need to do the job, i just need to get and make thos holes Counter sunk.

[Old_School_RC_1]

Max ST is a good value for the money. Lots of aluminum, and with some serious suspension tuning, handles decently, but the tranny gears have some serious issues. I have the metal top and idler gear, and i might have to buy stock in duratrax as i have to keep buying the diff gear. when i run it, i usually end up stripping the thing. I have chewed up several idle gears, and the metal one fixed that, but that diff gear totally sucks. I actually took off the 2 speed and went to a single speed with slipper, but still won't last through an afternoon of racing.
ANYWAY, to get to the point, has anyone tried swapping out the diff gear with a tamiya gear? The "old faithful" 4 gear tamiya diff from the tl-01 and tons of other tamiya cars has the same tooth count and pitch. It's a much more resiliant plastic (duratrax's is brittle - not good) and a smoother overall diff (and you can put a ball diff in there also). Only problem i am having is finding a way to mount the bearings on there, the sizes are way different....any ideas?

[67f100StPro]

Have you tried the steel diff gears that Duratrax has? I went through 2 sets of the pot metal gears before I switched. The steel gears lasted over 2 gals before the plastic mount for the spider gear shaft broke. The gears themselves still look good. I just bought a Savage 25 so I really haven't messed with my Max in a while but I have installed the new one-way for 1st gear and ANOTHER 2nd gear spur. Haven't tested it yet b/c I am going to tighten up the front by drilling the screw pin holes larger and installing some 1/8" hing pins. Also put some new tires on the rear. BTW the Savage is awesome!

[dhutch]

Cool, hope your enjoying your savage :p and yes, i swaped to the steel ones after the first set of alu ones died, never had a problem in all 3/4 gall.

My maxST is also out of action, when i was driveing round yestarday, the little pin that keys the spur onto the top gear (on the single speed), the one thats held in place my the "nut" that the disk brake sits on, somehow managed to work its way though that nut, i only noticed becuase the pin got jamed in the brake mechanism - i have know idea what prompted it to do that, but i know i dont have a spare "nut" :(

- also, i've been having trouble with the rear turnbuckles pulling at there mountings, which causes the rear wheels to "tow-out" majorly when rounding a bend, anyone else get this??

daniel

[67f100StPro]

- also, i've been having trouble with the rear turnbuckles pulling at there mountings, which causes the rear wheels to "tow-out" majorly when rounding a bend, anyone else get this??



I know exactly what you are talking about. The turnbuckle mount on top of the tranny flexes. I am going to make a brace for that out of alum pretty soon. It will be shaped like the mount and will bolt on the other side of the ball ends. Also the plastic ends tend to wear out pretty fast causing play in the joint.

[Are-see-truk]

I have the EXACT problem what Dhutch also has. The turnbuckle mount flexes...alot on mine. Does anyone know if any companys make Aluminum ones? And my ball ends wore out quick, also need to get some new ones.

[dhutch]

I have the EXACT problem what Dhutch also has. The turnbuckle mount flexes...alot on mine. Does anyone know if any companys make Aluminum ones? And my ball ends wore out quick, also need to get some new ones.
I know exactly what you are talking about. The turnbuckle mount on top of the tranny flexes. I am going to make a brace for that out of alum pretty soon. It will be shaped like the mount and will bolt on the other side of the ball ends. Also the plastic ends tend to wear out pretty fast causing play in the joint.

wow, everyone thinks like each other :p

- i think im going to make an Alu one, and then, like 67f100StPro make a simular one for the other side, which will have a thread taped into it to hold to bolts (becuase there not enough room around the spur gear)

- and i also have problems with the ball ends, i think its souch a bad idea them being aluminum, they ware very fast, as do the one on the bottoms fo the shocks - and you can only buy them 2 at a time (with the plastic ends) - i found the brass ones better, and i've got 6 steal (OFNA) balls on order, so i'll see if there good, i've also ordered some hardend steel hinge pins for the rear wishbone ends, which might fit nicely:(

i still like the car tho, not to "common" like the T-max ;)

[67f100StPro]

i still like the car tho, not to "common" like the T-max ;)


My thoughts exactly. :cool:

Also, which pins are you getting for the A-arms?

[dhutch]

Just recevied my tower order (was on my bed when i got back from school 10mins ago) , and i bought the DuraTrax Overdrive ST pins for the inner end (tower code LXAZL5) and the AE RC10B2 Front Pin (RC10B2) for the outer end - i'll be able to tell you how they fitt tonight.

- also, do you guy who use CVD shafts shrink wrap the joint? because i literaly can not afford the replace them if they get broke :(

- well, i got parts to fit, so, i'll post back later tonight.


also - can someone tell be about the alu stearing arm set up?
- cant find any think on duratrax's site, i need to know, how the two arms link together - i think you use the silver press steel bit, with the two flanged bearings, and then attach it to the ends of the arms, with the trackrod ends. is this right??



thanks, daniel

[dhutch]

well, i've fitted some parts, the replacment pins are looking good, the innner pins are only just long enough - you can just about get the Circlips on, hopefully they'll stay there when i got out tomorow

still not 100% sure about this stearing set up, had a look around for pictures of it, it seams that the bolts screws up from underneath the arm, then the link/bar goes on, then the ball joints. - only thing is im not sure which way up i should be putting the flanged bearing - beacuse one way it tends to jam up, and the other the link/bar can fall off!!

and the servo saver they send with it has got to be a joke?
- its so HUGE i can got from lock-to-lock just using the trimmer!!!

ah well, im tired, and i've got collage to morrow, so i'll see you all later :p

daniel

[67f100StPro]

The flanged bearings go on top of the center link and the ball joints for the tie rods goes on top of the bearings. The flange portion of the bearing holds the center link on. Also the curved side of the center link goes towards the front of the truck.
Kinda like this:

front of truck

0______0 <---center link

The servo saver goes straight up with the steering trim centered. Hope this helps.

Dean

[dhutch]

I think i got it set up right then, do you find that if you tighten the nut on the arms up fully the center link bindes (sp) on the arms??

- also, the problem im having with the servo saver is its so huge, and the holes are so far from the pivot, and it s generaly HUGE!! - i played for about an hour, and its not to bad now, i drilled another hole lowerdown/closer in, and i move the servo towards the Rx/battery (by reversing the mounts) - dont suppose you got a few photos of your servo/linkage?? - if you have that would be great

- also im finding it almost impossable to get the hex drives to grip the CVDs, did you do anythink to aid this, other than wrench it harder??

and finaly, i've found a crack in my fuel tank :(

daniel

[67f100StPro]

I have attached a scan of my manual showing the steering linkage. Hope it helps and if you can't see it I'll e-mail it directly. I don't have any problems with the rods binding. Do you have the correct balls in the plastic ends? They aren't the standard round alum balls like on the upper links. They are shaped more like this:

II
()
II

Man I need a digital camera LOL :rolleyes: Well they are extended where the screw goes through and are brass I think. Also I made a brace for the rear links today and it is like night and day. Absolutly no flex in the rear suspension now. I cut it out of my old chassis and made it fit snug on the trans. I recommend this mod to everyone with this truck. They should have came from the factory like this. The only thing I did for the CVD's was crank down on the wheel nuts. I did have to stick a screwdriver in the outdrive to keep it from turning.

[Ed237]

I used to apply a tiny amount of superglue to my hex heads on my MT and then tightenned the wheel down as best I could. That seemed to lock them in good.

I could still remove the hex heads if I had to with a screwdriver.

[dhutch]

cool, thanks

- i think part of my problems have been because the servo im using (Fut, S3010) have quite a large degree of rotation, which causes the stearing to be to senotive, and the servo saver to hit the fuel tank, what i have done is to rotate the servosaver forwards, and use the further back hole (so it cant hit the fuel tank) and then i drilled a hole lower down, (closer to the centre) - to reduce the the wheels where turned

- as for the CVDs, i think its just because, with the wheels i have i cant get them tight enough without to wheel nut diging into the wheels and damageing them, which are Nylon (hpi 5 spokes) - i'll have to find some big washers to spread the force over the whole wheel hub.

daniel

[megaman]

Nah, what I found works best, is instead of trying to make it work with the thing barely loose enough, is take the center link (draglink), put it on top of the steering links, both of those go on top of the aluminum bellcranks, then put the bolt through the top. The reason this works best is because the aluminum bellcranks bind the bearings with the surface area. Just try it. =)

[dhutch]

yeah, i'll try that way round

- Also, yesteday i broke my diff, it just riped out the plastic mounts for the two planet gear, like 67f100StPro was saying happend to him, the gears and case are reusable, but thos to mounts are well mashed, but if get my dad to ring the LMS while im at collage i should be able to get it back togather mid-week,

- has anyone tryed to make alu ones of them?

daniel

[dhutch]

also, dose anyone know how hexs from difrent cars woud fit, like the HPI hex hub clamps on tower (see below)

1 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGNU1&P=0
2 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFL9&P=7
3 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWX4&P=0

just a though,

[megaman]

I don't know about that...I'd only get those if you also have axles with the pin, because the Duratrax ones are pressure fit, where as the ones you're looking at are for pin driven axles. =) If you want some different pressure fit ones, try checking out some by Tamiya, I don't know if you'll find a difference or not.
If you're looking for a way to keep them from slipping, try threadlock on the hex, and then put two bolts on the axle so it doesn't loosen up, along with the thread lock.

[Old_School_RC_1]

Have you tried the steel diff gears that Duratrax has? I went through 2 sets of the pot metal gears before I switched.....

Hmm...I've never seen the steel diff gear - i'll have to check it out. Thanks for the heads up! It's a cool truck and i hate to see it collecting dust on the shelf!

[dhutch]

Well, i've Counter-sunk all the screws on the underside of my car, just like i sayed i would ;)

- what do you guys think?

[megaman]

OOh...And it's prettier than mine! Noice! (Australian accent) It's such a small mod but so worth it!
As for the steel bevel gears, they are stronger than the pot metal gears, but I blew them because I had mine shimmed too tight. =(

[67f100StPro]

Nice work Daniel. The front of that shiny new chassis looks like my old one with all those scratches LOL. Speaking of diffs, I blew mine out today test driving it for the spur problem. Seems like I fix something, go on a test drive, and break something else. The plastic mount for the spider gear shaft broke and the gears ate the inside of the case. Also the pot metal gears showed a lot of wear and one of them is missing a tooth. I'm going to get a new case and put my old steel gears in it. I did manage to get through 3 tanks with no stripped spurs :D I ran it hard too WOT all the time and as soon as it shifted I stopped, turned around, and made another pass. The brace I made for the rear upper links made a big difference. It seems to be more stable at speed and in high speed turns. I'm also going to install some Overdrive hinge pins on the rear arms. The Savage is broke also :( :( The engine backplate is broke where the RotoStart screws on. I think they left the screws loose and didn't loctite them. Man I hate waiting for parts. :rolleyes:
Dean

[megaman]

Ooh yeah, about the flexing upper rear mount, I found a good fix for that...Instead of having the turnbuckle on the front side, put it on the back part of the mount, towards the rear of the truck. This works real good because instead of the design of the mount allowing it to flex, it prevents it from flexing. It's still plastic, but other than that it's extremely solid. Oh and it will be a tight fit for your shocks, you may want to space the upper shock mount or something to keep the spacing good.

[dhutch]

Thats guys - does look nice doesnt it, imo, the scratchs in a chassis are important to the looks - without them, donesnt look right
- im still waiting for the new diff case, because i couldent get though to my LMS till wednesday, and then he didnt have the parts :(
- and the overdrive inner pins are great, i'd but deffonatly get the AE outer pins as well - they really do tighten up the rear hub carriers

daniel

[67f100StPro]

Right about the scratches. The first thing I did while braking in the savage was scratch the chassis a bit. Gives it character IMO. I have the AE pins on the hubs in the rear and both joints on the front. Hopfully I'll be back up and running by next weekend.

Dean

[dhutch]

yep - well, i LMS sent out my parts today - i was going to collect them, but then i decided to go biking instead, and they only got the alu diffs in stock as well :(

- and he was trying to sell me a whole nother max ST, £150 for the whole car nic in radio (i payed £199) - aparently, no one buys them any more - they all want 1/8th's - so all he can sell is savages and T-Maxs (even tho there 1/10th)

daniel

[67f100StPro]

Well I got my max and savage back together. Test drove the max and everything went well. My old steel diff gears almost looked new after I cleaned them up. Amazing considering they have 2 gal on them. The alu gears had distorted teeth and one tooth was missing after only 10 tanks. Also installed the Overdrive pins on the rear arms. Daniel was right they BARELY fit but should hold up a lot better than the stock screws. Has anybody heard of the new MT DuraTrax is building? It's called "Warhead" and is in the new stuff forum. Looks pretty sweet and it comes with a .27! I hope this is a success for DTrax because they need one to get rid of the bad rep.
Dean

[dhutch]

yeah, look interesting - might be my ticket into 8th

- becasue i dont think i can really afford a Savage

[dhutch]

well, i went down to my LMS to find out what was really happening with my parts

- got a new diffcase
- got a square 75cc tank (to make fitt)
- and a few other things like a mag, can of cleanner etc

so im back up running, i had to put the old steel gears (that got worn when the diff case broke) - but ther ok for now, so ill be out tomorrow !!!



also, anyone here know of another UK stockest, becasue PL modelsports is SOOoo anoying, OMG

- OMG

[67f100StPro]

I really can't afford the Savage either, but for $390 at Tower I couldn't help myself :rolleyes: and I bought it on credit using the "Bill me Later" option so I have only paid $50 for it so far. That's the American way, if you can't afford it, charge it! I do suggest to anybody that gets one to remove the engine and seal the carb and backplate and loctite the Rotostart screws. Well my max got wrecked today. Wife smacked a curb and broke the front bulkhead and bent the new chassis a little. I straightened the frame but I can't run it because I have to enlarge the hinge pin holes in the new bulkhead and my drill is at work :( Oh well guess I have to run the Savage now and the wife can watch :D
Dean

[dhutch]

lol, wives these days, lol

- Well i ran for the first time in a while yesterday, my cosin (10 y o) had go, and she nearly toteled it into the garage, but missed by about two inches

- i need to get the shell sorted as well, becuase i've been running topless for about 3months now :P

dniael

[dhutch]

well, today i was oulf driving and i nearly lost the pin out of on of my CVDs - i just got it in time, it cut a large pari or slits in the plasic hub carrier, but i manage to get the pin just before it fell out, so i carfully took it home and rebuilt the CVD with thread-lok - what can i do to make sure this donsnt happen again? - i tryed to shrinkwrap it before, but alough it fits fine, afer a few runs the hubcarrier wares out the shrink wrap, so it falls off

- has anyone else lost a pin?
- should i get some CA glue on the grubscrews? (lick i do on the outdrives)

thanks, daniel

[chorke111]

so i was sitting here today, looking at a catalog that tower hobbies sent me, and i got to thinking. has anybody ever tried to somehow hook up a small nitrous oxide can up to a nitro engine. You could probably put a port in by drilling a hole in the bottom of the crank case. i wonder if it would work. im betting the compression would be too much and the engine would explode, but even that would still be cool to see. :D

anybody have any comments?

[megaman]

I found something that isn't too pretty, but it works like a charm... I got two bike spokes... They're cheap, like 10 cents each, or 50 cents whatever, I don't really remember, but cheap. Anyways they have stoppers on the ends, flat spots, I don't know what they're called, but yeah... Straighten them out so that you can slide them in all the way to the flat spot, and that will keep it from sliding out one way, to stop it the other way you either bend just enough to keep it from sliding around. You only need a couple millimeters poking out and bent to keep it from coming out. It works like a charm just keep your fingers out of the way of the bent part cause it's dangerous haha. And you don't even need to tighten it down because it's "self contained". =)

[dhutch]

I found something that isn't too pretty, but it works like a charm... I got two bike spokes... They're cheap, like 10 cents each, or 50 cents whatever, I don't really remember, but cheap. Anyways they have stoppers on the ends, flat spots, I don't know what they're called, but yeah... Straighten them out so that you can slide them in all the way to the flat spot, and that will keep it from sliding out one way, to stop it the other way you either bend just enough to keep it from sliding around. You only need a couple millimeters poking out and bent to keep it from coming out. It works like a charm just keep your fingers out of the way of the bent part cause it's dangerous haha. And you don't even need to tighten it down because it's "self contained". =)
yeah, i might give that a go, if they ever fall out again!!

also, chorke111, nos doesnt work with nitro engines, its big gimick designed to get noobs and fools to waste money they could have used to make there car better

[67f100StPro]

Daniel you could try some red loctite that is supposed to be permanant. The blue stuff doesn't hold as well so the parts can be loosened later. When I got my CVDs I tried to take them apart to put some red loctite on the screws but they were too tight. I may try again to be on the safe side.
Dean

[dhutch]

yeah, maybe, i dont think i'll do anythink if it says

- the pins (that fall out) are the same dia, and slightly shorted than the pins used in the slipper, which i have about5 of, so i can just cut one fo thos (or not even cut it) and use it as a replacement,

daniel

[dhutch]

also, im havving trouble keeping the oil in the rear shocks, the front ones seam fine, but the rear one leak like crazy all round the top cap - i'll have to get some new ones rubber domes seal things, but i was wondering if anyone else has found this to be a problem, and has anyone changed onto diffrent shocks? - becuase these one seam to be wareing fast!!

daniel

[dhutch]

OK, i had a look though tower web site, looking for possable replacement, what do people think?

Tower Hobbies Shock Set Front ST-15 (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWZ70&P=7) - cheap but might work
Tower Hobbies Shocks Aluminum Front ST-15 (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWZ75&P=7) - the same but alumium, and cost more
Ofna Rear Aluminum Shock Red (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCAL4&P=7) - look a bit rough, should be sound
Powerline Front Shocks Nitro RS4 MT (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ59&P=7) - look really cool, but cost $35
Hot Bodies Threaded Shocks Blue T-Maxx (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANU1&P=7)look nice, not to expencive, but ar a bit long (4")

daniel

[megaman]

OK, i had a look though tower web site, looking for possable replacement, what do people think?

Tower Hobbies Shock Set Front ST-15 (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWZ70&P=7) - cheap but might work
Tower Hobbies Shocks Aluminum Front ST-15 (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWZ75&P=7) - the same but alumium, and cost more
Ofna Rear Aluminum Shock Red (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCAL4&P=7) - look a bit rough, should be sound
Powerline Front Shocks Nitro RS4 MT (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ59&P=7) - look really cool, but cost $35
Hot Bodies Threaded Shocks Blue T-Maxx (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANU1&P=7)look nice, not to expencive, but ar a bit long (4")

daniel

You can make anything that's 3 and 4 inches work for the rear shocks because of the upper mounting locations that they use on the Max MT. But the fronts won't reach them, and are too long for the others. I don't know what shocks you should get, I'm ignorant right now lol. But yeah. See ya.

[67f100StPro]

I haven't had any probs with my stock shocks yet. Went bashing last weekend and stripped another spur. This really has me stumped. I'm gonna try some new CB gears when I get the money. I may end up ditching the 2 speed and going to a single speed. Also the pressure line came off the pipe while my wife was running and temps went to 315!!! I have no clue how long it ran like that. I guess without the pressure in the tank it went lean but I couldn't hear it b/c of the savage. I let it cool off and it started fine with good power. Took the head off and nothing looks damaged. One tough motor IMO.

[dhutch]

ah well, i'll have to order a set of the replacement rubbers and seals
- in the mean time, im looking at geting a new car, looking for somthink at the opersite end off all scales, Electric, on road, 4wd, - like a Pro4 or a TC3 or somthink


- and imo, we're short of pictures here, lol :p

[dhutch]

Also, i tryed to fit my 14T clutch bell, and when fitted, it binds on the brake "pads" - as if the centre line of the crank shaft is to low - which would cause the clutch to be lower, so it has to be farther back to get the same mesh (if you follow my meaning)

- wondering if anyone else has had problems with fitting smaller clutch bells, its weird, beacuse i know the max MT comes with a 13T as stock, and my 15t only just misses!!!

[67f100StPro]

Been quiet here lately... Just put in a order for some new cb gears and another spur. Also got the parts to do the 4 spider gear mod on the Savage. How is the electric car coming along Daniel? I like the way those Mashers look on your Max. Do you have any pics with the body on?

Dean

[Fizban]

I seem to be having an ongoing problem. It seems like no matter where I have have tranny set to shift (2 speed tranny) I chew my high speed gear. On the first run you can see chipped teeth and it just gets worse from there...Any Ideas?

[megaman]

Yeah I had that problem too, I never found out how to fix the problem, I figure you could try reinforcing the frame somehow, to try to keep the mesh from getting muffed up, or just go for the one speed. With a hot enough engine and proper gearing you can compensate for not having the extra gear anyways.

[67f100StPro]

Well I have installed the new cb gears and still have the problem. This time the spur didn't last a whole tank before it stripped. I kept driving it and the first gear spur stripped also. Replaced both spurs and double checked the mesh and drove it again. Same thing happened. Now I'm all out of spurs and patience. I'm thinking about putting the damn thing on eBay and let someone else deal with it. I went on Tower and priced all the parts for the one speed and it's close to $45. The entire two speed kit is $43. What should I do? Should I go with a new two speed setup or put a single speed on there? I'm open for suggestions.

[Fizban]

I don't seem to have a problem stripping my low speed gear...just my high speed so what I do is set the tranny so it doesn't shift into 2nd unless I'm just out messing around....also I have been told to try setting it to shift just after it starts moving (like 10 mph) and let it run in second most of the time...apparently it strips is when it is down-shfting mostly so by setting it to run in second it only shifts down when I'm stopping.

[dhutch]

How is the electric car coming along Daniel? I like the way those Mashers look on your Max. Do you have any pics with the body on?

Dean
With the electric, im in the process of buying a 2nd Mardave V12, which im going to race indoors at my local club (wrexham)
- and then come march, when we move outside, i'll get a 2nd hand 10th [ie the pro4] - assuming i want the continue raceing

- and yeah, i can proberble find a photo with the body, although most of the photos i take are "body off"

[chrisgc]

HEY cool well i been in this quite awhile with this truck and know it up and down so anyone need any advice or help give me a shout or e-mail me g_galagher@hotmail.com I with all of us workin together we can make this truck the best it can be.
later guys :D

I have a Maximum St.It is now one year old.i am new to nitro rc.Last year i just got enough tanks into it for break-in.It was really hard to start, it usually took about half an hour just to start it up.Then, about a month ago I tried to start it up.It wouldnt start for me.I checked the glow plug, needles, fuel line, glow plug starter, if it was flooded.Every thing was in check- but I cant seem to get it started.PLease Help.

[Fizban]

I have a Maximum St.It is now one year old.i am new to nitro rc.Last year i just got enough tanks into it for break-in.It was really hard to start, it usually took about half an hour just to start it up.Then, about a month ago I tried to start it up.It wouldnt start for me.I checked the glow plug, needles, fuel line, glow plug starter, if it was flooded.Every thing was in check- but I cant seem to get it started.PLease Help.


Well the first thing that come to mind is how old is the fuel your using?

[chrisgc]

Well the first thing that come to mind is how old is the fuel your using?

i had it sitting for awhile but i drained the fuel & put new fuel in

[dhutch]

sheez

- ive been gone for mouths, and no ones posted!!

Well anyway, it chrismas, and i had some spare time, so i got her out.
i made some "snow tires", but my the time i finshed them all the snow had gone, so ive been using them on the dirt fields just up the road (pictures later) and the after about 1.2 tanks i melted the slipper, so had to come in :(

-daniel

[dhutch]

Here we go, no action photo, becuase i was driving on my own. But these are the wheels i was using today, there std 2.2' wheels with lenghts of 20*30mm alu angle screwed on with a load of huge self tapping screws i found.

- the altually very good, the grip like mad of the rought field, and not at all on the road.
- the've got a bit bend, which i think was becuase there are loads of rocks in the field.
- the should be 10 bits of metal on each wheel, but i got board of cutting alu angle!!


daniel

[67f100StPro]

Been a little quiet here lately. I sold my Max a few weeks ago and bought a HPI RS4 2 from Ebay. I had to completly rebuild the RS4 and it runs really fast with a OS 12 on it. Couldn't ever figure out the spur problem so I had to let it go. I want to say thanks to all those who responded to my posts and helped me out. The Savage is running great with about a gallon through it now. I'll check back here every so often and see what's up. Later
Dean

[dhutch]

Shame about the max, hope you enjoy the RS4 though

- im going to get into racing electrics at the club, gunna get a 2nd hand mardave v12 of ebay, and drive that till they move out side, by which time i hope to have a Pro4, or a shucmacher Mi2 or somthing.

dnaiel

[67f100StPro]

Wow 2 months without a post. I am painting a Camaro SS body for my RS4. It is going to be yellow w/ black racing stripes. Just thought I'd say something to put the Max forum back on the first page.

[dhutch]

Wow 2 months without a post.

Yeah, i just it "seasonal" car!

- I had mine out for the first time this year last week/end. Its running great, the motor in the steering servo (Fut S3010) had rust-seazed :mad: - but i had one that had blow the fets lastyear, so with bit of handywork i got a working one (which is good, can there a limit to how many HiTq servos i can afford!!)

- Proberbly have it out again today! and now the hours gone back it light enought to have a quick blast after school again :p

Daniel

[dhutch]

And while where at it, two photos of the car! from last W/end

http://www.spurstow.com/temp/rc2.jpg

http://www.spurstow.com/temp/rc1.jpg

Daniel

[rc man37689]

Wow first post in 3 months... pretty sad :(
anyway.....i started porting my old duratrax .12 half a year ago. I got it to run but it had air leaks. I fixed them and then never fired it back up. i got really really bored this week and started major porting and polishing. The sleeve probably weighs 1/4 or a little less than the stock 1 lol. Im going to port the drive shaft tomorrow and lighten up the piston......might not be a good idea but what the hey, my entirely modified max has a fantom .12 I got a year back and i have 2 spair duratrax .12s. O yeah, a few months ago i completely ported the carb too where the top where the filter goes is about 1 mm thick :eek: . I also took out the head shim and made slots next to the glow plug so the fuel gets to it better(saw it somewhere and the person said it worked pretty well.
If anyone wants pics ill try to take some and ill post them or even take a video of it running.
I already know my engine might detonate and this is just a fun project :p.
Ill laugh if it actually runs well. :confused: :cool:
(i inhaled to much copper and aluminum dust :D from this)
KEEP THIS PLACE ALIVE!!!! :rolleyes:

[megaman]

Yup, I haven't been running my Max. >=( Fuel costs money, so do repairs. That's why I've been running my elec. But I'm still in the game. And with nothing to do, I've just been modding it, and getting hopefull. =( I need some cash, around 30 bucks to fix it. I have too many problems with the drive lines, so I'm just going to upgrade it to a HPI NMT 2 set up, from my guesses (and some measuring) the stuff will fit. Here's what I'm looking at: Two of these; for the axles, (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYU9&P=7) a set of these, (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYU6&P=7) and two of these to replace the outdrives. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYV1&P=Z) BTW, here's my Max in it's current state, not too shabby I must say. http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/434/im0073413hi.jpg http://img305.imageshack.us/img305/8075/im0073438nj.jpg http://img305.imageshack.us/img305/6540/im0073441cg.jpg
Hehe, Max MT arms for better susp. trimmed rear tower, custom tower brace, and you can see how the steering is going to be by the servo placement, still needs to be drilled. My frame has so many holes in it now. Enjoy.

[mdlimy]

Hey guys, i have been looking for awhile and have still yet to find a hole website forum dedicated to just us MST/Pro owners, so i decided to make my own. It is still under construction, and any input from you guys will help me make it better. So go and register and become a member, so we can have a place for all of us chat and help each other out :D

http://maximumst.proboards62.com/index.cgi

[rc man37689]

im looking into selling my max :P
i need some money for other things and would really want to find a good owner.
I have a custom stainless steel extended chassis on it, a fantom '03 .12, duratrax tuned pipe and header, a spair max chassis with all but engine and tires, 2 radios, fantom was less than a gallon through it. It runs great and is a blast.
All of the forums have died since 2 years ago.

[mdlimy]

yea i know, these forums are pretty much dead, go post it under the b/s/t, in my forum, then mabey when i get some more ppl there, they will see it. Post some pics too.

http://maximumst.proboards62.com/index.cgi

[mdlimy]

on my MST pro the dif is locked, it was like that when i got it, it helps to really get alot more power to the ground. but id like to lock my dif on my other MST non pro, do i need a new differential, like a locking type, or can i lock the stock one?

thnx

robbie

[rc man37689]

u cant buy a locked 1 for the st... i tried locking my old 1 after the internal gears blew up by shoving tons of glue and shiz in there. lol it worked for a while untill the glue and things came loose... :cool:

[rc man37689]

also is the 2 speed good? do u drive off road or on? thanx

[mdlimy]

yea im thinking about trying to do somthing to lock it, mabey weld the gears together or somthing, ill have to take apart the tranny on my pro and see how the guy b4 me locked it.

The 2 speed is great if u set it to shift up at the right time, it works dreams, with the locked dif on my pro and the thunder tiger .21, puting out tons of power it wheelies right of the start and will keep going for just about as long as you want and then as soon as shifts to second it will flip backwards lol. So i have my shift point set pretty high so that there arent tons more rpms left for second gear, so it doesnt get out of control on 2 wheels. But if ur running the .16 or a engine of that size u should be able to have the shift point around half rpms and it really will give you a boost in speed. I thought before i bought the pro, that the second gear wouldnt give such a big boost in top speed because as in cars/trucks/motorcycles, when u shift up a gear the rpms drop, but you do gain some speed, but i never expected the big differnece i get when going from 1st to 2nd, its like a shot of nitrous lol.

[mdlimy]

do you have AIM or msn or yahoo messenger? then we could chat, there really arent many MST owners around so i dont really get to chat to chat to too many ppl about stuff about the truck.

[mdlimy]

cmon theres gotta be more ppl in this forum. go register and post atMST Owners (http://maximumst.proboards62.com/index.cgi) Theres some ppl there now, and there are quite a few nice pics allready posted. Including rcman's nice stainless steel chassis :D

[Callahan]

Hi, I need some help with a Duratrax Maximum ST with a Torq .12 engine. This thing has NEVER run properly and I think its fuel related.
Last year when I last tried to use it the fuel lines would constantly get air bubbles in them. I tried snipping a piece off each end and while that helped a little bit I could not get rid of the air bubbles. Are clips required for the lines, and could I strip the paper off of a bread tie and use the wire to cure the problem? :D

I messed with it for several hours tonight and it had fuel but it just would not start. I swapped the glow plug from one of my planes and it started and ran for 5 or 10 seconds and then quit, and it would not restart. The carb is set to 1.75 turns out.
Also, I don't believe the primer on my fuel tank is working properly. Is this because of the fuel lines?

I'd like to get it up and running tomorrow if possible. Oh, and is it possible to remove the short little pull start and use a drill to start it?

Thanks!

[Callahan]

Well I went ahead and took the fuel tank off and secured every hose using just the wire from two bread ties. I used two ties, cut each in half, and used needle nose pliers to twist the wire on tight. The only hose connection that was tight was the actual connection to the carb. ALL connections are now tight and the primer works!
I'm hoping this fixes everything, I'll find out tomorrow afternoon!

[dolphinchamp32]

Hi my friend has a 4 wheel drive stadium truck called tha conquistador.you can find it at this website http://www.internet-rc.com/cobyircra.html. They keep on saying that it goes about 45 to 50mph and that is definitly not true. can anyone guess with the sercomstances how fast it actually goes or am i not telling the truth and it actually goes 45 to 50mph. PLEASE help me

[Callahan]

Okay this truck is an absolute piece of crap. Can I get some help with it?
I'm fairly knowledgeable about automotive and I can't get the damn thing to run, I'm about ready to take my shotgun to it.. that'll "fix it". :)

The exhaust gasket is now leaking.. I noticed it was loose so I tightened it and it's still leaking. Is the TORQ .12 a total piece of crap or is it just the one I got?

I bought this thing from Tower Hobbies and it has never run for more than a couple minutes at a time, and that's usually after 30 or 40 pulls.

[Callahan]

It's got fresh fuel from a sealed container, a new battery in the glow starter, and it wont start most of the time even when it is getting fuel. The glow plug is good, I tried it in one of my planes.

Fuel, air, spark (glow starter in this case) and it should run. I noticed "they", hobbico, no longer sells this truck and I don't think they sell the Torq .12 anymore.

[67f100StPro]

How is the compression? Check it by turning the flywheel with your finger and if it gets so tight you can barely turn it then it should be good. You can try adjusting the throttle trim up on the radio kinda like a fast idle on a 1:1 car. The LSN may be too rich also. Also, duratrax has discontinued the whole Max line (ST,BX,MT) but Tower still stocks all the parts for it.

[Callahan]

I don't think they sell the TORQ .12 anymore.

[dhutch]

I don't think they sell the TORQ .12 anymore.
The Torq .12 was never very good, it no big loss!

- I have a OS CV-RX .15 is mine.


Daniel

[moparhemifan]

I got this truck (MT) a while back, and never got around to driving it in the snow, something I was told I could do if i did something to protect the electronics. Does anyone have any advice on how to protect the electronics from getting wet in the snow?

[dhutch]

The varous methods, the most sensotive part is the reveaver.
- Which can be placed in a ballon, or a recevver box, or filled with epoxy, or buy a water proof one.

Servos tend to be ok with snow, and the batterys are fine to get totaly soaked, just aslong as you let the dry afterwards (otherwise they rust) - Or just used non-recharables that day.

Worst comes to worse, whip the case of it and get it under a hair dryer, and 99% of the time it will work again fine and 20mins later you back out again.

Also, this applys to basicaly any car/truck/boat so you can ask in more general forum, or just do a search for past topics.



Daniel

[67f100StPro]

I don't think they sell the TORQ .12 anymore.

Tower still does, but they are out of stock.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD460&P=0

[JCSS]

I just aquired a Duratrax Mamimum.

It has the stock engine on it.

It is missing the idle stop screw.

Replacements have been discontinued.

I have already tried the throttle stop screw from the engine that is on the Evader, and from the Traxxas 2.5, and neither of these will work.

I need a replacement, any ideas guys?