View Full Version : 1/12th scale thread
i think i might buy this car
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=YYRX12WE
JimmyMac
01-05-2003, 11:23 PM
Speedworldraceway has that car for $199. Nice car though.... wouldn't mind getting one.
dirtbiker335
01-09-2003, 11:42 AM
buy it it is one of the greatest cars i have a carpet knife 3 and am about to buy the new yokomo just the dual pods and aluminum put it up to that price from the carpet knife just get some TIR titanium screws for it and you will be pimpin
Devin
01-15-2003, 11:00 AM
Originally posted by InspGadgt
The ride height adapters have a flange on the outside of them...they should be inserted into the bulkheads from the outside with the small side facing in. Once they are fully seated in they cannot push in any farther because the flange prevents it. Trick is to make sure they do fully seat otherwise you'll get axle slop.
Ah... I think I finally figured out what the problem is. Step #4 on pg 8 says to check the end play and add spacer 4554 to take up play. I don't believe I ever did that and that causes the axle to move left to right about 3-4 mm screwing up gear mesh! Im not 100% certain this is the problem as im at work, but after examining the manual I think this could be the culpriate. Thanks!
Devin
01-16-2003, 10:51 AM
Well i eliminated the problem all together. I went for a IRS competition axle where the left hub can be removed all together. :)
RC-ZOMBIES
01-16-2003, 11:15 AM
Originally posted by FTR
i think i might buy this car
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=YYRX12WE
Speedworld sells it for $199.99
Taz_S
01-18-2003, 07:08 PM
2003 NORRCA On-Road Nats
Here is the final Date for 2003 NORRCA On-Road Nats. They will be held @ SpeedWorld Raceway in Roseville Ca. Here are some other dates for races in California.
NORRCA State Championships - March 1 ( Show Time, Bakersfield)
4th Annual Speedworld Challenge Cup - April. 26-27 (SpeedWorld Raceway) 1 1/2 day race starts Saturday @ and 2:00 p.m.
great warm up race for Nationals.
2003 NORRCA Electric On- Road Nationals May 16-18 (SpeedWorld Raceway)
2003 Reedy Race - May 23-25 ( Tamiya Track) Southern Cal.
All info and fliers for Speedworld races, will be out in the next 3 weeks or sooner.
Thank you and good luck.
http://www.speedworldraceway.com/
daprdon1
02-01-2003, 04:38 PM
frank (or anyone) do you have any rc10/rc12 l3's in good ondition for sale. i've been looking for one, and i'm having a VERY difficult time trying to find one. please reply to rtillar@hotmail.com
FrankW
02-02-2003, 03:19 AM
Sorry, I've got no more 12th scale cars for sale. There are actually some really good deals to find on Ebay. In the R/C section I usually search for "12", then for "12th". That brings up pretty much all the 12th scale cars for sale. I've gotten some great deals on CRC Carpet Knife set-ups.
The track I used to race at here closed down, so there's no more 12th scale racing around here. However, there's supposed to be a new indoor track opening up around here in less than a year. I'll probebly get back into racing then, but I won't try to be as serious about it as I used to be. No new batts, no new electronics, no vast amount of tires that I'll never use, etc. I can't wait... should be fun. :-)
-Frank
stormperson
02-04-2003, 09:29 PM
i realize it was asked a little while ago, but here is my rev. 3 set up (and it got my 7th in the stock A main at the Silver City Shootout, which is the 3rd round of the USTC)
front:
-20 fronts (i think, although you can try out 18's, they would give you more steering), sauce full except 1/8" on the outside edge (you never want to sauce the outside edge), also in addition to the 2 degrees of caster, try taking a header card (the peice of paper that comes with new parts, that tells you what it is) and cut a small rectangular sliver and and put it on the outside of the screws that hold in the front arms, it should give you some camber, and give you more steering overall, everyone i know who's tried it has liked it) and purple tires
-rear blue or white side springs (i run more preload in my side springs than enough so that they touch) , meduim hydra drive fluid in the damper tubes, black center spring and 80wt oil, and also limit the travel in your shock (by shortening the lenght of the ballcups) so that you dont have too much droop in the rear pod (you just want a little bit). i ran grey rears with full sauce, and my diff as loose as possilbe without slipping (which is how you always want to run it, maybe slightly tigher if want your bearings to last longer:D )
and a parma speed 8 body
if you try this stuff out and it doesnt help, then you might want to try the AE dynamic strut front end, test that out and see how you like it.
good luck!
stormperson
02-04-2003, 09:29 PM
i realize it was asked a little while ago, but here is my rev. 3 set up (and it got my 7th in the stock A main at the Silver City Shootout, which is the 3rd round of the USTC)
front:
-20 fronts (i think, although you can try out 18's, they would give you more steering), sauce full except 1/8" on the outside edge (you never want to sauce the outside edge), also in addition to the 2 degrees of caster, try taking a header card (the peice of paper that comes with new parts, that tells you what it is) and cut a small rectangular sliver and and put it on the outside of the screws that hold in the front arms, it should give you some camber, and give you more steering overall, everyone i know who's tried it has liked it) and purple tires
-rear blue or white side springs (i run more preload in my side springs than enough so that they touch) , meduim hydra drive fluid in the damper tubes, black center spring and 80wt oil, and also limit the travel in your shock (by shortening the lenght of the ballcups) so that you dont have too much droop in the rear pod (you just want a little bit). i ran grey rears with full sauce, and my diff as loose as possilbe without slipping (which is how you always want to run it, maybe slightly tigher if want your bearings to last longer:D )
and a parma speed 8 body
if you try this stuff out and it doesnt help, then you might want to try the AE dynamic strut front end, test that out and see how you like it.
good luck!
Scrad
02-04-2003, 10:02 PM
Stormperson, you might have been replying to me. I'm running that exact set up. 18 up front, but with double pink tires. The purples didn't hook up enough for me. I'll try to header card thing. The only thing I noticed about the car is that in the middle of the turn it pushes slightly and it doesn't turn as tight as I'd like.
stormperson
02-05-2003, 04:00 PM
the extra camber should help you out there, i have yet to personally try 35's (double pinks or whatever), however if you still need more steering try stiffer tweak springs, or also try adding more preload to them. or also maybe try the dynamic strut front end.
also this might not be an issue, but if your servo saver or servo is old or not in perfect condition it might contribute, since thats the part of the turn when its the most stressed. 12th scale servos and servo savers can go very quickly, so its always something to check.
Scrad
02-05-2003, 04:55 PM
I never really thought about the servo saver. Thanks.
Tamiya Man
02-09-2003, 08:30 PM
Hello... i just ordered a trinity switch balde 12 spashett ed(the 6 cell chassis) and am wondering if there is a conversion to make it into the newer 2002 edition. I saw a SB conversion on tower a while ago but cant find it. Also i need new turnbukles, does anyone know what part numbers they are???
Thanks
Saboteur
02-17-2003, 03:39 AM
Hey frank, sup? Long time no see man. I saw an rc10l3 in the jan 03 rcca mag that one of my LHS has for $50 bucks. I couldnt believe it..what a steal!. Unfortunately I never been to the LHS nor how to get there and I'm moving soon. Anyway as long as I can get a nice 1/12th for a good price and if my LHS has parts for it, great. I'd like to get into 1/12th racing which is very interesting and amazingly fast with only 4cells and a stock motor. Imagine 6cell stock.LOL
FrankW
02-17-2003, 03:15 PM
Hey. I've been lax on all the message board stuff lately. With work, a new g/f and all the models I've been working on, message boards have gone on the way side. I still check out the boards, but it seems that there's not much new to discuss on these forums. I feel like I've already said everything twice, LOL. Anyways... 12th scale is awesome! 4 cell stock is a great introduction class for a track. It's relatively cheap (especially if you limit the batteries) and builds driving skill very well. I don't care too much for 6 cell stock, you can get the same speed out of 4 cell mod and the lower weight of only 4 cells allows the car to accelerate and transition from turn to turn better. But that's just my opinion. Now if you want the ultimate in speed, try 6 cell mod! I once put my Aveox BL system into my 12th scale on 6 cells. Wasn't so much fun... I couldn't get enough traction anywhere with any tire combo. If I had enough traction it would've been insane.
Anyways, an RC10L3 for $50 is a great deal... unfortunatly it's not 12th scale, it's 10th. There isn't as big a following for 10th scale pan cars as there is for almost any other class. I think there are even more drag racers than 10th scale pan racers, LOL. But I could be wrong, it depend on where you live. Good luck though.
I'm glad that this thread is still going, it shows a definite interest in 12th scale racing. Keep it up guys.
-Frank
CaseyDDR
02-18-2003, 04:57 PM
hey guys, new comer to 1/12 here... Jus bought me a new 12L3 :) well it was ran one day by a team driver, so its still new to me :) came with a bunch of stuff too. everything on it was new with the car and it comes with quite a bit of stuff :o gotta love when team members switch :D hehe you end up gettin a steal.. Since i saved so much I'm gonna end up getting a Carpet Knife (bloody knife) v3.1, anybody have experience with these, I hear they are extremely nice.
and what do you people prefer, 4cell or 6cell, mod or stock? thanks
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
02-24-2003, 10:25 PM
Hye, another Newcomer here-
abotu a month ago a friends dad gave me a 1/12th scale pan car- its a corally, adn by askign around at the track, its the first one they made(heck, its made out of alluminum!!!!) does anyone know the name and where i can get parts for it? anyone? i wil answer any questions abotu it- its 6 cell( it actualy is meant for a 6 saddle, but there are battery cups for a stick) at it probably has about 6-8 turn motor, with old novak electronics- i need to get a new spur gear- this one is totally stripped- hey, it still runs fine, a little lound, pinion is fine, motor or electronics don't heat up at all9 i think that its perfectly geared) but the stripped spur is kinda like a slipper clutch( although u dont need one) anyways, any info will be appreciated
stormperson
02-25-2003, 06:57 AM
I am sorry i cant help, i would call up corrally USA and see if they could help you out.
j. sorwell
02-27-2003, 12:50 AM
does anyone make a 4-cell chassis for the 12l3, who?
RC-ZOMBIES
02-27-2003, 11:14 AM
Originally posted by j. sorwell
does anyone make a 4-cell chassis for the 12l3, who?
RcModel in HK has one...I had one but sold it...
see: http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/
see a pic of it here:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=106452
Gunrock22
03-04-2003, 01:30 PM
I want to get into 1/12 scale for the speed, and when i mean speed i do mean speed. My friend owns a 1/10 serpant impact pro. I want to be able to beat this car. what Im considering is 8 cells with a 6-turn P-94 motor. I plan on gearing it 2.14:1 to get as much speed out of it as possible. I believe this setup would allow for the car to accelerate moderately without excessive wheel spin. The only problem is that I dont know if the car would be able to handle that much speed. I would like any insight on whether or not this is a good idea, or is there another way on beating a serpent with a 1/12 pan car. Im not worried about the surface we race on, because it was just paved. Oh the car I plan on buying is a RC12L3 team kit.
f1racefan
03-04-2003, 02:27 PM
Have a 12L with 6 GP3300's, 12T Dbl tweaked by Brad Davis of Mindblown Mods, w/22/96 gears, that holds the outright track record for a 5 Minute run. With a ratio much higher than that it is very hard to keep it in a straight line and it only runs about two minutes, but it whistles down the straight! Tried 6 and 8 turns but they spin the wheels.
Don Hill
f1racefan@msn.com
www.thercspeedway.com
Rdub202
03-04-2003, 02:58 PM
looking to possibly buy 1/12 scale what cars are there????!!
RC-ZOMBIES
03-04-2003, 03:05 PM
Originally posted by Rdub202
looking to possibly buy 1/12 scale what cars are there????!!
AE 12L3
Yok YRX-12WE
Trinity Switchblade.
CRC carpet knife.
Soon to be release IRS 12
Corally SP12G3
Academy 12
HPI RS12G
and counting..... :)
Rdub202
03-04-2003, 04:02 PM
thanks i dont knw if i will get into 1/12 but who knws i want to possibly get an FT TC3 but who knws??
RC-ZOMBIES
03-04-2003, 04:13 PM
Originally posted by Rdub202
thanks i dont knw if i will get into 1/12 but who knws i want to possibly get an FT TC3 but who knws??
well if you decide on a FT TC3... I'll sell you mine.:D
Dephcon5
03-04-2003, 05:45 PM
Hello All, Im new to this forum and like the sharing of info. You guys are great and wanted to thanks to all. I just got a new Yok YRX12. I have to say this thing is cool.... However, I in no way can justify the extra expense over the AE 12L. I mean, the Yok is nice with all the goodies, but my AE 12L actually turns laps exactly the same + or - all things considered. Anyone else have a new Yok 12?
Dephcon5
03-04-2003, 05:48 PM
Personally? If you get into 1/12 I would recommend the AE 12L3 or the Trinity Carpetknife. Relatively inexpensive and super easy to set up. And parts are easy to get.
RC-ZOMBIES
03-04-2003, 05:52 PM
Originally posted by Dephcon5
Personally? If you get into 1/12 I would recommend the AE 12L3 or the Trinity Carpetknife. Relatively inexpensive and super easy to set up. And parts are easy to get.
HI....
I did have the 12L3 with a 4 and 6 cell chassis...sold it and got the new YRX-12WE SSG. :D
Now I'm looking forward in getting the new MRTC-SD SSG special.
new Shaft driven car...:D
CaseyDDR
03-04-2003, 06:34 PM
personally i want a bloody knife 4cell chassis :)
RS4rally1124
03-08-2003, 09:56 PM
does anyone have an extra car 4 sale. i either would like a newer one or if possible to build one out of old parts for me that would be great
JT
stormperson
03-09-2003, 05:43 PM
rc-zombies: you forgot the speedmerchant rev. 3! lol (btw it was just crowned national champion at the carpet nats today, which is at least the 4th consecutive year (dont remember further back)). also they have something pretty cool coming out within the next few months which will defently be the thing to have.;)
IanMan
03-21-2003, 12:29 PM
stormperson is right on!!!! The new developments at the Speedmerchant skunkworks are definitely going to revolutionize a few aspects of the 12th scale world. Get ready, The Goods are coming.
Ian Ruggles
Team Speedmerchant
Speedfreak44D
03-22-2003, 04:16 PM
Is there a website that sell both CRC and SpeedMerchant cars
Scrad
03-22-2003, 04:39 PM
You can get the Speedmerchant stuff through www.hobbyect.com and you can get CRC stuff form www.stormerhobbies.com and through www.horizonhobby.com
IanMan
03-24-2003, 03:20 PM
Hey all, check www.teamspeedmerchant.com. The pics of the new V-Force front end are now on-line. If you've been looking for a completely adjustable, durable, super high performance front suspension for your 12th scaler...... YOUR WAIT IS OVER!!!!
Archerboi
04-07-2003, 11:45 AM
Anyone know a good 12th scale car just to run out in the street? Would it matter if I got a oval car or a regular car? Thanks.
Scrad
04-09-2003, 05:48 PM
Anyone know what profile would be good to use on a 12th scale for the Cyclone C2?
trxstr1961
04-09-2003, 07:43 PM
hello, i just got a 1/12th scale pan car (12lc) today, graphite chassis,132 servo,adjustable front end single shock on rear. it came with no tires/rims, and im needing to know where i can get a set from :confused: also, it has 2 hole hubs on rear, are their rims out for this type of hub :confused:
IanMan
04-10-2003, 01:12 PM
trxstr: My local shop Ultra Racing, has quite a bit of two-bolt stuff they're closing out. You can contact them at www.rccaronline.com
Tell 'em Ian sent you.
trxstr1961
04-10-2003, 05:21 PM
I had a 12th scale thread started under the AE link, so post all your 12 scale info there, please:)
stormperson
04-12-2003, 08:08 AM
only a small percentage of 12th scales are AE ones. so thanks for starting an RC12L3 forum, but for the rest of us guys with other 12th scales we will continue to post here.
trxstr1961
05-08-2003, 03:32 PM
What would a decent stock motor for a 12th scale be, along with gearing, for parking lot fun:confused:right now i have a 75t spur ont it, came with the car tho! :(
kiyano
05-10-2003, 05:15 PM
It was heard that new 1/12 car of trinity were put on the market. Although seemingly it is the same chassis as Josh Cyrul, do someone know this chassis in detail? Although I looked for webpage of trinity, I was not able to find information.
F1Junkie
06-15-2003, 10:06 AM
Does anyone have a good general rollout guide for motors in 12th scale?
I will be running at Toronto RC, which is a medium sized carpet track.
Looking for rollout range for stock, 19 turn and mod motors down to 12 turn. I use millimeters.
thanks!
dave
:D :D :D
xxxkat
06-27-2003, 11:33 AM
Anyone have a good set up for a crc carpet knife for asphalt ?
Getting no luck on the crc part of this forum so may as well ask again here..
I am starting in 1/12 scale racing. Waiting on my CRC CK V3.1 to get here. I am looking into what electronics to use, already figured ill be useing a novak XXL reciver because of small foot print, and a hobbico cs-35MG mini servo... but the esc is kind of getting to me. I will be running a fantom team stock motor in it (the 406). The people I have asked suggested the cyclone series or the gt7 (still a cyclone isnt it?). I was thinking about the Quantum series (the Associated Quantum Sport) it has a much smaller foot print and is ALOT lighter. Is there a particular reason the people at the track are with the cyclones? or should I go with the Quantum?
thanks
xxxkat
09-02-2003, 12:43 AM
On the LRP speed controlers I have been told they dont handle the 4 cells as well as the Novak's,as in glitching due to the lower voltage of the 4 cell packs,I dont know if this is BS or not,I would think if you ran the cap's you should not have a problem.I run a GT-7 in mine but I snaged it out of one of my other cars.
xxxkat: thanks for the reply will look into it a little more.
As for a reply to your question, once I get a set up that works well I will post my setup sheet (will probally be a jpg), 90% the people at the track I will be running at (asphalt) run purple in the front, pink in the rears, TRC seems the prefered tire/wheels as I have heard that the jaco's are prone to cracking the rear rims. I am a fan of dish wheels though so I will probally be going with the crc wheels and seeing how they are. The track I will be running at is set up for 1/10 touring so should be fairly fast for 1/12 though I don't know. This is my first venture into 1/12 racing. So far I have had about 15 minutes trigger time behind a 1/12 scale car. They seem like they are a little less forgiving than a tc, I like that. Also like the fact you can't manhandle the wheel, I had just set down the controller to my 1/8 buggy where extream wheel movement is almost a must. Hopefully I can start rigging this thing up tommarow.... Going to go with some old eletronics that I have laying around to get started and put 1 major componet in per paycheck (reciver, esc, servo) or go a cupple parts a week if I dont bust up the 1/8 scale too bad =)
EricF
09-03-2003, 04:14 PM
Bex... If you can afford it I personally would go with the Quantum Comp.
1) lifetime warranty
2) same size if not smaller than GT7
3) no capactor necessary (gt7 has a huge cap.)
4) Ive been running one for years and no problems.
E
Originally posted by EricF
Bex... If you can afford it I personally would go with the Quantum Comp.
1) lifetime warranty
2) same size if not smaller than GT7
3) no capactor necessary (gt7 has a huge cap.)
4) Ive been running one for years and no problems.
E
I can afford it, will just take a little longer, but I dont see the benifit of the comp over the sport... I'm not planning to run mod.. all the local tracks just run stock 1/12 cant justify the extra cash for features i wont use... thanks for the reply though =)
Animeboy123
09-11-2003, 10:44 PM
OK i am going to get into 1/12th scale pan cars. I am going to be getting a RC12L3, but i am not sure what electronics i should get for it. I should be getting the car around Christmas for various reasons. So what electonics should i get for it??
microrcdude
10-11-2003, 11:14 AM
mini servo, GM v4, and a novak or airtronics reciever
frank13
10-19-2003, 08:07 PM
hey guys,
has anyone heard of a trinity evo10ss pancar --its a 12th scale car,, iis it onroad or oval ,, and are parts still made fo rit ,
thanks alot
EricF
10-21-2003, 03:52 PM
Originally posted by frank13
trinity evo10ss pancar --its a 12th scale car, is it onroad or oval, and are parts still made for it.
thanks alot
I think that it's a oval car and it is most likely a 1/10 scale, thus the name evo10ss.
Trinity parts support can / is questionable... the best thing to do would be to send an email to Trinity via their website.
Eric
microrcdude
11-15-2003, 07:15 PM
I think he's talking about the trinity street spec.they are discontinued, and they are on-road
minijosh
12-22-2003, 03:11 AM
I just bought a Academy SP3 1/12 for only 30 bucks so I cannot go wrong there. Seems the kit has bearings thru out and that makes me happy there. Do you normally hot glue cells into the car? The car I got had a set of matched 1700's in there and I have a set of 3000's on the way. I don't think there are holes in the chassis for tape so glue would be the only other option huh? What do you guys think of the vette shell?
microrcdude
12-22-2003, 02:50 PM
Just use tape. Everyone else uses it. Or, you could make it so it has a battery brace, like in touring cars
highflyin
01-01-2004, 09:50 PM
Does anyone know anything about the CRC Carpet Knife. I WILL BE GETTING ONE SATERDAY.My lhs has one for $150.00. I was told they were real good.
microrcdude
01-02-2004, 09:57 PM
they rock!! I wan't one, but don't have enough money.
highflyin
01-04-2004, 02:20 PM
Now i got the carpet knife and it looks to be very durable.I got the chassie mostly together but i had to stop cause now i need super glue.There is only one thing i dont like. The instuctions are not very good.You have to kind of peice things together.Other than that it is pretty sweet.I got the vesion 3.1 team red car.
microrcdude
01-04-2004, 07:46 PM
I'm getting a 1/12th scale!!!! I was going to race my touring car, but it isn't legal!! So, im getting the Six-Pack 1/12th Car Kit Version 1.0 w/ 2 Bolt Rear end $124.99 US
highflyin
01-06-2004, 03:50 PM
Cool! What esc should i use? I really think the novak GT7 would be good but i m not sure. I was looking at this esc would it be good?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH307&P=7
microrcdude
01-07-2004, 09:13 PM
is that the servo u r going to use???
highflyin
01-08-2004, 05:52 PM
I meant to say servo instead of esc.
GT Freak
02-16-2004, 02:14 AM
battery braces,, hhmmmm heads for parts box
fasteddie9111
04-05-2004, 10:00 PM
Hi,
I am interested in picking up a pan car, but i am not sure whether to go with 1/10 or 1/12. I am basically gonna use this car for some fast speeds. So i am wondering if the 1/12 can handle speeds above 50 or even 60, or would it be wiser and easier to control if i went with a 1/10? thanks!
microrcdude
04-11-2004, 12:22 AM
go with 1/10. you will be satisfied!!!!! the fastest one went 111.2 mph!!!!
Taz_S
04-13-2004, 11:25 PM
SO we getting ready for the Nat's in OR.
U.S. PAN CAR CHAMPIONSHIPS COMING APRIL 2005 (http://www.fishermenstudios.com/uspc/)
U.S. PAN CAR CHAMPIONSHIPS Forum (http://fishermenstudios.com/forum/index.php)
Rdub202
06-26-2004, 01:39 PM
within the last month i picked up 2 1/12s in trades-L3 and a carpet knife. the carpet knife needs a few parts but the L3 just needs a mini servo and then ill need to either swap electronics when i need to drive the other one or pick up some new ones-
EvaderRacer76
07-20-2004, 05:39 PM
does anyone have an academy 1/12, i'm not sure of the name, but i know it's an academy
primuswoostinkinhoo
07-28-2004, 12:35 AM
just picked up a 1/12th scale, and totally botched a paint job, have a look
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/mbxb4/DSCF0002.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/mbxb4/DSCF0022.jpg
Baja-Destroyer
07-28-2004, 08:55 PM
i just got a trinity revolver 1/12 with oval and touring chassis and extra parts its pretty cool but i dont think i want it im not really into 1/12 and i need stuff for my xxxs so any of u 1/12 guys ill trade it for electronics
Taz_S
08-07-2004, 04:11 AM
here is the flyer again For the US pan car chap's
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1028166
LosiRacerX
08-22-2004, 10:12 AM
which 1/12th is better, a l4 or carpet knife 3.1
microrcdude
08-22-2004, 07:44 PM
L4 all the way. Im gettin a 1/12 for a race series this year.
aspiringrcracer710
09-13-2004, 09:14 AM
you can also find it here:
http://www.rcfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6109
LEADFOOT
09-15-2004, 11:49 AM
here is the new CRC "Courage"...
http://www.teamcrc.com/ftp_temp/crcbody/4160-a-480.jpg
http://www.teamcrc.com/ftp_temp/crcbody/4160-b-480.jpg
http://www.teamcrc.com/ftp_temp/crcbody/4160-c-480.jpg
CRC is proud to announce the release of our new 1/12th Courage C60 Evo 3 LMP body (p/n 4160). This marks CRC's first entry into the world of lexan body molding. The body is the result of the CRC boys' love for Formula 1 and LeMans style race cars, and the fact that there is just not enough open cockpit style bodies available for 12th scale. The product was enhanced with extensive testing and design work from our European race team.
The open cockpit design of the C60 Evo3 is perfect for 12th scale as it keeps the CG down and creates less wind resistance than closed or "bubble" type cockpits. The aggressive styling of the front end helps the car to steer very well, while the rear deck and side dam area are shaped just right to keep it planted on the track. Also, the C60 Evo is molded out of lightweight .020 lexan to keep the weight down, with clear film on the out side to simplify paint cleanup. IFMAR and EFRA legal, soon to be on ROAR's list as well.
We are very pleased with the performance of the body so far, and we are proud to have this be the body that introduces us to the racers as the hobby's newest body maker. We hope you'll give it a try and let us know what you think. For questions, comments, feedback, etc., please visit the Team CRC forum at www.teamcrc.com
Sweet paint! ;)
Click to see the CRC forum (http://www.teamcrc.com/php/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1005)
microrcdude
09-15-2004, 03:10 PM
I love that body!
tjcdas1212
09-21-2004, 06:23 PM
Running TRC wheels in front seems to be too much free play--should extra shim so inside or outside wheel. I only have one shim on the inside as per manual?
microrcdude
09-24-2004, 04:35 PM
ya, try another shim.
fasteddie9111
10-06-2004, 05:27 PM
hey, i was wondering what the fastest some of you guys have gotten with these 1/12 cars. Would something like 70+mph be out of the question?(since they have small tires) I want a car that could keep up with 1/8 onroad nitro's, and i am not sure if i wan to get a 1/12 or 1/10. Thanks!
microrcdude
10-06-2004, 05:54 PM
1/12 can hit 70 with the proper gearing and the proper motor.
racerx217
10-08-2004, 01:33 AM
i just got back into rc and bought a rc12l4, i was planning on runnin it in the stock 4 cell class, what is the best servo for this car? what is a good radio? any help would be much appreciated
microrcdude
10-08-2004, 11:09 AM
Well, whats your budget?
racerx217
10-08-2004, 04:46 PM
no real budget, i just want the best
Ginsu
10-15-2004, 10:48 PM
It was heard that new 1/12 car of trinity were put on the market. Although seemingly it is the same chassis as Josh Cyrul, do someone know this chassis in detail? Although I looked for webpage of trinity, I was not able to find information.
It is the reflex 12, I have one ordered.....it looks nice from what I can tell. I am trying to find out who has run one......I guess I will have to wait until Monday when mine arrives.
microrcdude
10-17-2004, 07:07 PM
heres a great radio that will last forever, and it is synthesized, so no crystals will ever need to be baught. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGRB0&P=7
Heres a great servo for that great radio: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPB35&P=7 its low profile, so it wont take up as much room on your chassis, saving more room for electronics
RCNitroDude999
10-27-2004, 05:54 PM
does anyone run their 12th scale on asphalt? i just purchased a rc12L3 for that purpose, what kinda tires would be best for that?
primuswoostinkinhoo
10-29-2004, 02:33 PM
anyone know a good place onlie to buy some 12th scale parts, i was trying to get a mini servo saver, a roll over antenna, some tires, t-bars, front springs and rear springs
primuswoostinkinhoo
10-29-2004, 02:42 PM
i looked on crc's website, and i looked on tower and stormer and horizon, i couldnt get any pictures to work on crc's site but it looked like they had alot of stuff, and i couldnt really find anything on the other sites that i knew was what i needed
12l4racer
11-18-2004, 08:01 PM
tis the season for 12th scale racing, just got my new 12l4 out on the track today for a setup practice and this thing really rips
microrcdude
11-18-2004, 08:35 PM
Nice! What class ya racing?
12l4racer
11-19-2004, 12:35 AM
4 cell stock, i have not raced rc for 10 yrs, this is about all i can handle right now, lol
cyost
11-20-2004, 01:00 PM
Is there a good site with a lot of 1/12 scale info? I see that www.12thscale.com is doing something with ski reports! Mostly I am looking for setup, tips & tricks, paint schemes, etc.
microrcdude
11-20-2004, 03:35 PM
What car ya running? That helps us find set-ups for ya.
cyost
11-21-2004, 09:52 AM
Reflex 12
microrcdude
11-21-2004, 02:52 PM
Did ya try www.teamtrinity.com ???
cyost
11-23-2004, 12:11 AM
Well yes, but I was looking for something a little more specific to 1/12 scales.
12l4racer
11-26-2004, 08:44 AM
how long have you guys been racing 12th scale, what do you race(class) and what car do yo use(post some pics)
aspiringrcracer710
11-29-2004, 07:51 AM
Hey, Im sure that many of you have heard about the US Pan Car Championships in San Antonio Texas next year. There will be 12th scale classes for both road course and oval offered. If you need to know information about these classes you can check out www.uspancarchamps.com/forums. It is the home of the race until the official site is up
aus jd 2703
04-06-2005, 06:55 AM
hey guys thinking bout racibg 1/12 th scale and have a few q's
1 is it much cheaper than 1/10th?
do you use the same electrics as 1/10th?
and is the xrayt1 mini any good??
thanks in advance
Bornondabayou
05-05-2005, 02:24 PM
hey guys thinking bout racibg 1/12 th scale and have a few q's
1 is it much cheaper than 1/10th?
do you use the same electrics as 1/10th?
and is the xrayt1 mini any good??
thanks in advance
The bodies are cheaper, the tires are a little cheaper. The same electronics as 1/10th scale except 4 cells are the norm instead of the usual 6. I don't know anything about the mini I don't think it took off or grabbed hold.
60mphtc4
05-08-2005, 12:01 AM
wow this thread went dead :eek:
microrcdude
05-08-2005, 10:35 AM
It has been.
GT Freak
07-26-2005, 01:07 AM
Im getting one of these...mrc12th scale pan car...$45. questions are:
what motor can i run?
what bodies will it run?
can it be upgraded?
is there still parts out for it??
GT Freak
07-26-2005, 01:08 AM
chassis shot
Bornondabayou
07-26-2005, 09:43 AM
Hi GT Freak,
Any stock or modified 540 can motor will work, or you could go with a Brushless set - up. Associated, Trinity, and Parma make 12th Scale bodies.
It looks alot like an Associated car, especially the front suspension. Upgrading - Don't know. You could probablly use 12 L4 parts but not sure.
Is that a composite plastic chassis?
aspiringrcracer710
07-26-2005, 11:05 AM
Im getting one of these...mrc12th scale pan car...$45. questions are:
what motor can i run?
what bodies will it run?
can it be upgraded?
is there still parts out for it??
I would call MRC because they did get some new folk in there (you may have seen their ads with Joe Wutke in them) and I wouldn't be surprised if they still had parts in the warehouse for that particular car
GT Freak
07-26-2005, 01:15 PM
...just called mrc, found they STILL carry the parts for that car... awsome!! :D
and WHY would i put a brushless setup in a $45 car????
thats like putting a $1000 stereo in a chevette that u bought for $100
Bornondabayou
07-26-2005, 02:14 PM
How about 70+ MPH :eek: These pan cars are real rockets, my friend.
Even a state of the art 12L4 is only a little over $100 and racers run serious Mod motors in them all the time. I only suggested a brushless as an option.
Again, is that chassis a composite?
GT Freak
07-26-2005, 11:17 PM
im guessing its a plastic chassis.... not sure if it came with electronics or not.... :confused:
wonders ....make a plexiglass chassis for it....hhmmmmm :confused:
aspiringrcracer710
07-26-2005, 11:27 PM
If you have any friends that know CAD, you could design a new chassis for it in CF.
GT Freak
07-27-2005, 08:42 PM
isnt CF a leading cause of glitches tho :confused:
Bornondabayou
07-27-2005, 08:47 PM
isnt CF a leading cause of glitches tho :confused:
Nearly all State of the Art pan cars are CF
aspiringrcracer710
07-27-2005, 08:49 PM
isnt CF a leading cause of glitches tho :confused:
If you prep it right it shouldn't be an issue. I think you need to sand all the edges and seal them with CA, also make sure to do that to the edges of the battery tray and seal them with CA. There are some other things you can do, but I can't remember them. worse comes to worse you could try a Lexan chassis, but Im sure there are some other guys that could give some information about preventing glitches
GT Freak, Stay away from that car.. it's a piece of crap. There used to be a class for those at a track I used to race at; people ran 380 motors with them. Plastic chassis with a lot of flex and the parts are not standard and not widely available. They just don't work like "real" 12th scales.
99% of 12th scale cars out now are made of CF. Most highend TC's are CF. Under some circumstances CF "can" cause glitching, but I don't think you should consider it a factor.
Chassis prepping is not for reducing interference. It's for making the chassis more durable to crashes (a well prepped CF chassis is less likely to split). Sanding/filing battery slots are for lowering CG by lowering the battery position.
GT Freak
07-28-2005, 01:18 AM
well,for my 1st 12th scale parking lot runner, im thinking this would do the trick :D and since im wanting LOOOOONNGGG run times im thinking a tamiya540(kit) motor will fit the bill just nicely
Brushless can give you even longer duration of fun.
GT Freak
08-03-2005, 11:25 AM
Well, didnt get the mrc after all. :( Gonna stick with my t3 for right now
Bornondabayou
08-03-2005, 01:53 PM
Well, didnt get the mrc after all. :( Gonna stick with my t3 for right now
Is it still available? I might be interested in it. Please let me know.
Thanks
Is it still available? I might be interested in it. Please let me know.
Thanks
I got a more decent 12th scale for sale if you're looking for one
How many manufactures out there still making the 1/12th pan car?
is300zx
08-06-2005, 08:50 PM
let's see there's associated, yokomo, crc, cefx, speedmerchant, trinity and a few more that i don't know about and also a few more that makes conversions like bmi and hara.
aspiringrcracer710
08-06-2005, 11:08 PM
Lets see, right of the top I can think of Associated, Trinity, Speedmerchant, and Corally. There are a few companies that have made conversion kits as well
microrcdude
08-07-2005, 04:04 PM
didnt bolink have a 1/12 pan for a bit?
didnt bolink have a 1/12 pan for a bit?
I think he asked about companies currently making 12th scales. Bolink stopped long ago!
microrcdude
08-10-2005, 10:58 PM
oh yeah, didnt see that, whoops
darnold
08-17-2005, 04:27 AM
How many manufactures out there still making the 1/12th pan car?
Let's see: There are at least 17 world wide with 11 being made here in the U.S. and the Hara is sold through Horizon i do believe as well so it's relatively easy to get.
-Speedmerchant Rev. 4
-Associated 12L 4
-CRC (makes two different types) Carpet Knife and T-Force
-Corrally 12M
-Trinity Reflex 12
-Yokomo
-Hot Bodies Hara Hammer
-BMI
-Hyperform 12
-CEFX C12
-IRS Rug Rat
-There's a Swiss Manufactuer (Lejolle?)that makes two cars similar to a Rev. 4 and another similar to a Trinity/Assoc. hybrid.
-PRC Quad 12
-SlapMaster 12
-Kawada
yellow15
08-21-2005, 08:12 PM
I got serious torque steer problem when i'm racing on carpet.. everytime i apply the throttle slightly too heavy, the car would do a sharp right turn then bang into the wall! Is there something i can do to fix/minimise this problem?
I don't really have this problem when racing outdoor. I've already tried to loosen the diff a bit. Checked the tweak settings, replaced the T-bar/springs...etc but still got this problem.
I'm driving a L4 with 9 turn motor.
I got serious torque steer problem when i'm racing on carpet.. everytime i apply the throttle slightly too heavy, the car would do a sharp right turn then bang into the wall! Is there something i can do to fix/minimise this problem?
I don't really have this problem when racing outdoor. I've already tried to loosen the diff a bit. Checked the tweak settings, replaced the T-bar/springs...etc but still got this problem.
I'm driving a L4 with 9 turn motor.
A 9 turn motor is pretty crazy in a 12th scale! And you will need to exercise precision throttle control. Do you have that same issue with a milder motor? A car can only handle as fast as it's setup and not as fast as the motor allows. Have you checked the tweak? Are the tires same size left/right? Is front camber equal both sides? Could be a long list of things... But if that is your problem, start off with a milder motor!
12l4racer
09-05-2005, 12:07 AM
any of you guys have any experience witrh the speed merchant rev 4 , what do you think of the old school ft end?? still competitive, just curious i raced a rc12l4 last season and this season i am looking at the rev 4 and crc t force
corman007
09-08-2005, 03:04 AM
Anyone interested in a vintage Associated RC12L fiberglass?
It's almost new. I ran it once or twice back in the 80's and decided I didn't like it. Sat in my closit since. I pulled it out last week and cleanned it up. I can send pics for anyone interested.
It will go on Ebay next weekend.
Anyone interested in a vintage Associated RC12L fiberglass?
It's almost new. I ran it once or twice back in the 80's and decided I didn't like it. Sat in my closit since. I pulled it out last week and cleanned it up. I can send pics for anyone interested.
It will go on Ebay next weekend.
Why not just post pics here anyways so we can all see it. If it is in absolutely perfect condition with some NIB bodies from that era then someone's gonna want it. However, they are not much of a collectors item and won't fetch much $$$. If it's NIB unassembled people will pay a lot more. I had a 12i in good shape that I ended up cutting apart for a strip of fiberglass,rear bearings and shaft for a project cause it had almost no resale value. But then again, the chassis are consumables on a 12i!
Giant655
09-29-2005, 02:25 PM
any of you guys have any experience witrh the speed merchant rev 4 , what do you think of the old school ft end?? still competitive, just curious i raced a rc12l4 last season and this season i am looking at the rev 4 and crc t force
The Rev. 4 is AWESOME!!! It has the narrowest chassis for more clearance when the car transitions from Corner to Corner, and also has a very short front overhang to prevent any rubbing of the front of the chassis plate on the Carpet as well. With the link and side spring set-up , as well as the center shock, the car is way more tunable than a T-bar car. The Speedmerchant car naturally has more steering than a T-Bar car due to it's weight distribution, and therefore the Dynamic Strut front end is totally unneccessary unless you're running on an extremely bumpy track, so we run the Old-Skool front-end just about everywhere due to it's simplicity and consistency. The car also includes IRS lowered rear pod plates, and the big-ring diff, so there are no hop-ups required to get the car to perform at the highest level. Most of the team drivers run their cars "bone stock".
If you have any more questions fire away.
Giant655
09-29-2005, 02:30 PM
I got serious torque steer problem when i'm racing on carpet.. everytime i apply the throttle slightly too heavy, the car would do a sharp right turn then bang into the wall! Is there something i can do to fix/minimise this problem?
I don't really have this problem when racing outdoor. I've already tried to loosen the diff a bit. Checked the tweak settings, replaced the T-bar/springs...etc but still got this problem.
I'm driving a L4 with 9 turn motor.
Check to make sure that your rear axle is spaced correctly. The outside edge of the left side of the chassis to the edge of left rear tire must be the exact same distance as the right outside edge to the right rear tire edge, or the car will exhibit this disturbing behavior, That's the most common cause. The more grip and power you have, the worse this problem will be.
IanMan
09-29-2005, 02:33 PM
Oops, posted those last two under my co-worker's log-in.
b-man777
10-15-2005, 04:52 PM
hi all:just want to putt my 2 cents in here.trinity has the new black widow,darkside motorsports has a prototype that's in production soon and swift rc racing products is working on a prototype no word on production as of yet.thanks and have a great day y'all :D
2fast2slow
12-05-2005, 08:04 PM
How fast do you think a RC10L4 will go with a Novak Velocity 5.5T on 7 cells
aspiringrcracer710
03-06-2006, 09:55 PM
Thought Id give this a kick start.
I just got a 12L3 last week. any setup suggestions would be most helpful
highroller
03-25-2006, 01:37 AM
Best place it at the track where you might be racing at. Tire compounds are different in grip between different manufacturers even though they might use the same color code - durometer rates might be a little different. I started with Pinks front, Purple rears (Jaco) now double pink and gray rear track developed more grip and then back to pink/purple when grip goes away. Paragon is used for traction compound, applying it on front 1/4 to 1/2 inside to middle, and full surface of rears.
Front spring are the .20 with about 1.5 negative camber adjusting more or less for handling. For front I use the Irrgang 5 degree suspension mount. Shock is set with 30wt oil, blue spring, weight is distributed even on front, even on rear with 15% of total weight on front.
superdcook
07-06-2006, 05:56 PM
I just picked up a 12L3 form the LHS for $140
gonna install a Reedy Neo Star 3 BL and LRP Sphere ESC. not sure baout gearing yet. lol gonna pick up some pinions tonight. stricktly for bashing, The Sphere will drive a Brushless OR brush motor so If I do race I can slap in a 19Turn brush motor.
Grizzbob
08-13-2006, 08:34 PM
Hey guys, thought this thread was a bit quiet, so I'm gonna try to load a pic of my recently aquired car, a CRC Carpet Knife 3.1(with the lower roll center kit but also with the older style front end, it was done by the previous owner to calm its steering down).... :cool:
microrcdude
08-13-2006, 11:47 PM
Nice! One of my local tracks just got carpet to cover their indoor asphalt track, and seeing your CRC makes me wanna get one for myself....
damick
09-11-2006, 03:45 PM
our track in altoona, pa is just getting ready to run 1/12th scale for the winter i have the crc 3.1 and am getting the bloody knife as well thinking of running old school front on the 3.1 stock and bloody mod w/new front end
Grizzbob
09-11-2006, 06:22 PM
I have to admit, I still don't get why a number of people prefer that old front end, mine came with it, but it was just too "dead" feeling to me, steering felt pretty abrupt & a bit inprecise, but once I got the newer front end kit & installed it, I immediately got the linear, progressive feel I like. I just can't see ever wanting to go back.... :p
damick
09-12-2006, 10:02 AM
consistency is why i would want to run it, when that new style front end came out, i dont know if molds where different or we were doing something wrong, trying to get the car consistent left and right was a nightmare
Loheswaran
10-04-2006, 06:22 AM
IS there anyone out there that knows how to set up the front end of the trinity Switchblade with the tie rod front end?
I am a bit confused because in it's current guise on my car the castor is in fact negative ie the kingpin leans forward, not backward.
OldSkoolRCRacer
10-07-2006, 07:50 AM
Guys, I just picked up an Associated 12LS very cheap, but it is missing all the parts from the diff rings out on the right rear. I can get the bearings, rings and spur, but the two parts, Associated 4359 and 4360 are discontinued. These are the sluminum hub/spacer, and the plastic bearing holder.
Any ideas where I can get these , or can any parts from a later 12L be used?
Thanks
Grizzbob
10-07-2006, 12:38 PM
Actually, you have many options, including using someone else's diff. personally, I like CRC's D-Ring diff assembly(& they offer it both as the individual parts or a complete rear axle/diff kit, & the complete rear axle kit is only about $45 from them, pretty good deal for what it includes). but for the time being, you should be able to use parts from most any of AE's 12L diffs to replace what you need, so have a look at the parts for the 12L4, you may find what you need right there.... :cool:
OldSkoolRCRacer
10-07-2006, 03:05 PM
Grizzbob,
Thanks for the info. My last 1/12th scale was a new 12i. Many years ago, so the info is of great help!
Thanks from one bob to another bob
Bob
jamesbernatchez
10-09-2006, 11:58 PM
Hey all, Im new to 12th scale and I have a chance to get a sick RC12L4 Factory Team for a pretty good deal(ill post it all if i get it). I will be putting my Novak 5.5 brushless setup in it (can u say overkill :D) and will be running 4 cells obviously. I might do lipo down the line. The big thing that is confusing me is a receiver pack. Im stumped about how I go about doing this and how and where it hooks up. Im confused and dont want to ruin my brushless setup or the car. Any help with a "how to" hook up a receiver pack is appreicated. Do i need to remove any existing wires from the esc? Does the receiver pack just plug directly into the battery slot on the spektrum receiver? Please help :)
Oh and I might end up doing a 3.5R motor down the road :D:D:D:D:D:D!!!!!!
Thanks
James
highroller
10-10-2006, 03:28 PM
The reason 4cell pan cars use receiver packs is during a certain point the main battery may not be able to provide adaquate voltage.
I am not sure of brushless controllers, but a majority of the brushed motor ESC when using a receiver pack, you remove the position wire from the ESC plug. Pry up the plastic retaining pin and gently push out the positive wire, then wrap it with a piece of electrical tape to prevent shorts. The mod of operation will be different depending on brands.
If receiver pack doesn't have a switch on it - most do not unless the person made and added one. Turn on radio, plug receiver pack into the BATT slot and turn on esc when finished turn off esc, unplug receiver pack and turn off radio. Most of the 120, 160, 180 MA packs will only last about for 2-3, 4min heat races, may last half that when using a personal transponder.
jamesbernatchez
10-10-2006, 05:46 PM
Thanks highroller :) Exactly what i was looking for.
James
zangonli
10-18-2006, 11:44 PM
This was a recent impulse buy on ebay (it has an interesting look to it!) Anyone know much about this car?
highroller
10-19-2006, 09:42 AM
It could be one of the earliest Delta 1/12th onroad chassis. Several kits had had the name impulse or SP12 designation.
Plus I've seen some items there that were advertised as some brand name kit but were nothing more than different parts put together. Most of the first generation 1/12 th scale cars used a double deck arrangement, most were fiberglass.
damick
11-13-2006, 10:16 AM
the new generation x ships tomorrow, i can wait
I am wondering if anyone has a modifeid 1/12 scale car. I have an RC12L4. I want to do something different.
Has anyone put another body on there 1/12 scale?
Are there different wheel/tire packages out there?
Where can these be found?
Thanks
:wave:
I am wondering if anyone has a modifeid 1/12 scale car. I have an RC12L4. I want to do something different.
Has anyone put another body on there 1/12 scale?
Are there different wheel/tire packages out there?
Where can these be found?
Thanks
:wave:
12th scale are specially designed race machines, to be fast and to run on smooth, clean tracks. No extras, no funny stuff, no bling! If you got a 12L4, there are a couple upgrades that you might want. CRC unitune rear end which replaces the dampener disc with damper tubes and addition of tweak springs. Lowered rear pods so you can run smaller tires. And lastly the new center shock which is more a durability upgrade than it is performance. The new shock doesn't come apart as easily. All these times can be ordered from teamcrc.com
As for other bodies; nothing performs better than the lemans style bodies. It's scary how much difference it is between a regular weight and light weight body in 12th scale! Don't mess with a good thing. Different wheels have been a performance thing as well (more or less rotating mass, tire-roll issues, etc). A LONG time ago some companies did make aluminium rims but I doubt you'd find them and the rears won't fit the new 3 bolt rear hubs.
lordraptor1
12-10-2006, 11:36 PM
i have to get in on this one. i run 1/8 and i have to say that the rear body mounts are attached to the rear suspension arms to provide better rear traction for these cars, also the wedge shgaped bodies are more prominent in racicing for the higher downforce. the high speeds (80 mph and higher on some setups require loads of downforce and if you have ever compressed the rear suspension on a 1/8 onroad you would see that as that if you press on th echassis the tires angle insdead of staying flat on the surface and causes less traction. 1/8 onroad 4wd are usually a front one-way read solid (the rear looks like a diff setup but is in fact just a gear with outdrives on it. basically what the advantage of the body (or wing) mounted to the rear pod would be better traction directly to the rear wheels.
Loheswaran
01-04-2007, 06:39 PM
It sounds strange that 1/8 attach the shell to the suspension arms, however, I think the reason is that RC cars - even those going at 80mph simply have altogether different forces acting upon them than on say a formula 1 car, or indy car - ie if those cars are travelling at 200mph the downforce is such that they could be turned upside down and stuck on a ceiling.
I therefore assume the downforce generated on a 1/8 car is insufficient relative to its size/speed, hence the shell gets attached to the rear suspension arms as a type of compromise - if it is the case that the shell is directly attached to the arms by posts (I'm no buff on 1/8 cars regretably)
that said, the forces on a 1/12 car are greater relative to its size than a 1/8 car both by reason of size and weight.
the problem with attaching a shell to the pod would be flawed by reason of the fact that the pod is where the suspension is active, and is indeed the unsuspended weight in the car. if there is attachment to this it would impair the suspension movement. in addition to this, 1/12 has a solid axle, so every shift of the suspension will flex the body. that flex is uncontrollable and inconsistent, unlike the pod unattached as they normally are.
I hope that sheds my penniesworth :D
rc_flyboy
02-10-2007, 02:35 AM
Hi everyone,
I just recently bought a CRC 3.2R and was helping my bro shop around for one. I was wondering if the 3.1 is too outdated to be competitive with the 3.2R? Anyone know from experience how they compare? This is the first pan car I have ever bought and have no knowledge about the details on these. My bro and I are very close in skill level and like running the same equipment to keep things interesting. I would appreciate any input I can get to help me make a descision.
Thanks for looking,
Jason
Loheswaran
02-13-2007, 06:30 PM
David Spashett - the current world champion - turned up at the UK Crewe National in 2005 with a 1998 Trinity SPJ Switchblade - he obliterated the competition in both 19 turn, and modified!
I think that should answer your question to some extent.
simply put with 1/12 new bits are to some degree just shiny and fancy - if you learn to set the car up properly there is little between the cars ie:
carbon chassis
associated style rear axle
us wheel size
associated style dynamic strut front suspension (unless you have a switchblade/ team laje/ calandra genX)
Just enjoy the car - you'll probably find greater differences with cells, motors, speedos, and most of all tyres!
I hope you enjoy yourself
PS if you ue non-smelly additive like in the UK - try purle fronts and grey rears as the starting point, and also get the front tyres trued down by about 2-3mm in diameter! :D
rc_flyboy
02-14-2007, 02:32 AM
Wow...4 posts in 2 forums and your the only one to offer me any kind of asisstance! Thank you very much for your input :D I am starting to realize that most of the 1/12 cars are very similar. I just got mine in the other day from a seller on ebay. The ad said that it was only used in 2 races, but looking at it closely, I'm finding some pretty extreme wear on some parts. I don't fault the seller (yet...lol) as he may be selling it for someone else who may have lied to him. I emailed my concerns to him and am awaiting a reply. There is something you may be able to help me with however. Are these cars known to come with caged bearings? I'm feeling and hearing some slight grinding from the rear axle bearings, just wondering if this should concern me as well.
Thanks again for the reply and take care,
Jason
rc_flyboy
02-14-2007, 06:50 PM
TEM: Thanks a lot for your reply. It was very informative. I have another question that hopefully someone can help me with.
I will be running a Mamba Max 6900kv (new) with CRC procut tires (new)and a 98t spur (came with the car). I just have no idea what size of pinion to run. I know this may be a tough one to answer as the motor is a new release and brushless in general is not very comon in 1/12. Any input would be appreciated.
P.S. I noticed that the holes in the spur that carry the balls are worn (balls fall right through). How harmful, if at all is this?
Thanks again to all who have contributed their input, I can't thank you enough.
Take care,
Jason
There are a few differences between the 3.1 and 3.2. The 3.2 has lowered rear pods (which allows the use of smaller rear tires that is beneficial in 2 ways; smaller tires have less rotating mass and you can get more life out of your tires don't get carried away cause you can only run a tire so small before it doesn't hold enough traction compound and at that time the edge of the rim also cuts into the carpet in hard cornering and the car feels really funny), thicker chassis (better if you're on good traction carpet but won't kill you without it). The 3.2 also had the large D ring rear diff. That gives you a smoother rear diff action and less rebuilds! And the rest is really red colored bling. Both cars are still competitive and are as good as the tuner/driver. I would not buy a 3.1 simply because it's old and usually that means more usage! CF gets weak over time and the metal and plastic parts also wear over time. With the exception of corally's; 12th scale cars do not run well with slop.
As for your gritty rear bearings; replace them. Good bearings, especially in 12th scale sitting in properly prepped rear ride height adjusters(piece that holds your bearings and sits into the rear pods) should be so smooth that you can find the heavy spot on the rear-axle/tire assembly! Another reason for replacing them is not just speed; also handling; assuming your diff is good and proper; gritty rear bearings means your left tire has more drag and the right! When it gets extreme, the bearing can seize on you and you force the axle to rub on the inner-race. Then you wear the crap out of your graphite axle and you have to buy a new one! Bearings are really another consumable among other things.
TEM: Thanks a lot for your reply. It was very informative. I have another question that hopefully someone can help me with.
I will be running a Mamba Max 6900kv (new) with CRC procut tires (new)and a 98t spur (came with the car). I just have no idea what size of pinion to run. I know this may be a tough one to answer as the motor is a new release and brushless in general is not very comon in 1/12. Any input would be appreciated.
P.S. I noticed that the holes in the spur that carry the balls are worn (balls fall right through). How harmful, if at all is this?
Thanks again to all who have contributed their input, I can't thank you enough.
Take care,
Jason
I only use kimbrough spur gears in my 12th scale and the balls snap in and snap out and do NOT fall out on their own. I really recommend getting ceramic nitride? balls for diffs. They are like 10-15bucks a set and practically NEVER need replacing! I replaced my regular steel balls (that are like 7bucks for a container of 100?) with ceramic nitride(can't remember exactly cause it's been sooooooo long) and gone through several sets of plates and still the same balls. The diff should be slip free(grip rear wheels, left in left hand and right wheel in right hand and attempt to turn spur with right thumb, should be no slip!) but the wheels turn independently with butter smooth diff action. If you have to tighten the diff nut so tight the feels feel gritty or tight to get no-slip action;replace rings and balls(if balls are steel). At around 3-5bucks for plates and 7bucks(tube of 100 steel) or 10-15 for ceramic; no one should run a gritty 12th scale diff. Gritty diff doesn't kill nobody but it's crappy performance. Just a tad gritty doesn' KILL performance but I find degredation as it feels tighter and tighter to get no-slip. Some say use diff tightness to control traction? Perhaps in TC but Not in 12th.. the smoother the diff, the better. When you put new balls and plates in; run in the diff with your hands. (tighten diff nut to get slightly sliperage and force turn the spur with wheels held in hands for about 3 mins, tighten nut just a tad, do it again for another few mins, then tighten for no slip). Easier to perform in person than written....
Can't help you on the brushless.....
rc_flyboy
02-14-2007, 09:03 PM
TEM: thanks again, this should help out lots in setting up the car.
I will be running the car for the 1st time this weekend and going to the LHS tomorrow to get the remaining parts needed to complete it. I'm hoping they can help me with my pinion issue and not just recomend a range of pinions to try. I would rather know which to use than test a bunch ($$) and end up with a whole whack of pinions I don't need.
So the question still stands, if anyone can help with my pinion decision, I could really use their input right about now.
Thanks,
Jason
TEM: thanks again, this should help out lots in setting up the car.
I will be running the car for the 1st time this weekend and going to the LHS tomorrow to get the remaining parts needed to complete it. I'm hoping they can help me with my pinion issue and not just recomend a range of pinions to try. I would rather know which to use than test a bunch ($$) and end up with a whole whack of pinions I don't need.
So the question still stands, if anyone can help with my pinion decision, I could really use their input right about now.
Thanks,
Jason
Foam tires get smaller as you use them. You will NEED a whole wack of pinions anyways! I own pinions from 16T all the way to 45T and some are doubles! This is to support difference class of cars I run. I might use between 28 to 36 with a 96 or 100t spur in a 12th scale for 19T 4 cell on carpet; moderately geared and not running tires of either extreme large or small. Maybe thats not much help? You might be able to find the touring car rollout for that motor and multiply it by 1.5 to start off with in a 12th scale. Brushless is still voodoo for a lot of us..
rc_flyboy
02-14-2007, 10:52 PM
Foam tires get smaller as you use them. You will NEED a whole wack of pinions anyways! I own pinions from 16T all the way to 45T and some are doubles! This is to support difference class of cars I run. I might use between 28 to 36 with a 96 or 100t spur in a 12th scale for 19T 4 cell on carpet; moderately geared and not running tires of either extreme large or small. Maybe thats not much help? You might be able to find the touring car rollout for that motor and multiply it by 1.5 to start off with in a 12th scale. Brushless is still voodoo for a lot of us..
Yikes! What have I gotten myself into...lol. I've also been on the Calandra forum and they recommend I find out what "roll out" the other racers use and from that I should be able to calculate proper gearing. But your right, I will need pinions to cover tire wear. I can't remember the last time I've crammed so much info in my head in such little time...lol. I am loving it though. If I love learning about these cars so much...think of what driving them will do to me...I can't wait!
Thanks again, you've been a big help!
Jason
graeme_rsa
08-01-2007, 05:35 PM
What has happened to this thread? Last post was in February! 1/12th seems to be on the up and up - even Hot Bodies have now got in on the action with the release of the 1/12 Cyclone DD yesterday!
http://www.rceasy.com/2007/07/31/hb-cyclone-112-dd/#more-4611
Questions:
What are the added benefits of the Gen X changes over the Bloody Knife?
I recently heard a rumour that a 1/12 (make unknown) running a Mamba 20XX series (actual version unknown) designed for 1/18th scale, outran the std 540 size motors at some race (again unknown) or is this another 'urban legend'?
Cheers
fiat124
08-29-2007, 12:08 AM
Hi i have a Vega v2 ESC and and a 10T flat liner motor.
Can i put them in my merdave v12 runing on a 4 cell 4.8 v batt ?
First post WoW
graeme_rsa
08-29-2007, 04:32 PM
Hi i have a Vega v2 ESC and and a 10T flat liner motor.
Can i put them in my merdave v12 runing on a 4 cell 4.8 v batt ?
First post WoW
Don't see why not - you can put any motor/ESC combo in any car! How it will perform is an other story! I doubt you will get any other replies as this forum seems to be stone dead :(
Perhaps they have all gone elsewhere!
fiat124
08-29-2007, 04:37 PM
Yes what do you use in your 1/12
graeme_rsa
08-29-2007, 05:00 PM
I've just bought myself a 1/12th and have just been experimenting with a 1/18th scale Mamba 2080 brushless motor in it - just to see if it works! Some problems but once it takes off it goes like a rocket! Have not raced this car yet as I have no idea how to set it up for racing on an outdoor track - most setups are for carpet. Due to the light weight of the cars the 4 cell limit does not seem to restrict the cars and they can easily match the speed of 1/10th Mods with brushless motors - that is just my observation as I have not run my chassis yet in a race!
fiat124
08-29-2007, 05:31 PM
Nice I had no idea there where rc racing clubs in South Africa.
Id love to go there this winter but i herd English people where not welcome there? Is it hot all year round ?
graeme_rsa
08-29-2007, 06:46 PM
Nice I had no idea there where rc racing clubs in South Africa.
Id love to go there this winter but i herd English people where not welcome there? Is it hot all year round ?
Being a Scotsman, whether the English are allowed anywhere out of England becomes an issue! I suppose as I'm married to a Geordie I would have to accept them!
Durban in South Africa has the perfect climate! Winter is best - where else in the world would someone state that? Our winters are dry - no rain for about 4 months with daytime temps in the high 20's dropping to +- 15 after 4pm - we have to wear a jersey for the cold! Summer is hot - high temps and high humidity + rain - but only for part of the day - it is so hot that you can see the rain evaporating off the roads! Fanatasic weather but if you have to work for a living then you only get to experience it at the weekends! Downside is that it gets dark early - winter +- 17:30 - summer +- 18:45
Advantages for pommies - the exchange rate is so high that beer costs you next to nothing! 3 X 500ml for a Pound!
Cheers
Graeme
fiat124
08-29-2007, 07:42 PM
Is love to spend the winter there.
But it will be summer for you during the UK winter Which may be to hot for me.
May be ok by the beach Its a nice place you live just been looking on Google
graeme_rsa
08-30-2007, 06:34 PM
:)Is love to spend the winter there.
But it will be summer for you during the UK winter Which may be to hot for me.
May be ok by the beach Its a nice place you live just been looking on Google
As there is nobody else on this forum at present then lets talk about SA! Unlike the UK where 1 weather does all, SA is big enuf to have different weather patterns depending on where you live. Durban has dry warm winters and hot wet summers; Cape Town has cold (10 degrees) winters and hot dry summers; Joburg has freezing winters - after 4pm but hot during the day and rainy summers!
In Durban during the summer the temps are high but it is the humidity that is the worst! If you are cold then you can wear more layers of clothing to keep warm - if it it hot and humid there are only so many clothes that u can take off before you are arrested!
Saturday is officially the start of Spring in SA! The end of our lovely winter!
UK summers tend to last all of 1 week - if you are lucky! Everybody goes to Spain for their summer holidays! Don't know why people don't come to SA for their summer holidays - the beer is probably cheaper than in Spain! And we speak English :)
Cheers
Graeme
LOW ET
12-08-2007, 07:50 PM
thinking about getting a 1/12 scale, looking at the crc gen. x or the speedmerchant rev. 5. which would be a better choice and why?
I have 1/12L2 & L3 and want to go brushles any suggestions :confused:
TamiyaIFSDriver
06-21-2008, 08:54 PM
Has anyone ran their 12th scale outside on the parking lot? I am thinking of getting one to run at work. Its a mostly clean large parking lot. I wanted a touring car but they are to much money.
rc_flyboy
06-21-2008, 09:58 PM
Hey flex- I put a Mamba Max 5900 in my Bloody Knife and it dropped a few jaws. I was running on a fairly small track so I'm not sure how this Kv would work for you. Most and 1/10th brushless should work, just double check the bolt patern and dimensions (especially length, as some brushless have longer cans).
rc_flyboy
06-21-2008, 10:05 PM
Hey Tamiya- I would stay away from 1/12 for parking lot use...even on carpet without a good tire comound can be hairy. 1/12 run about 3mm off the deck, so even if the dust doesn't break your traction, all it would take is a small pebble so give you greif. On top of that, the gears are very exposed. Just my opinion, but I wud save up the little extra for the touring car as it is much better suited for that environment. Nothing I hate more than spending money on something just to realize I should have gone with something else.
TamiyaIFSDriver
06-21-2008, 11:09 PM
Hey Tamiya- I would stay away from 1/12 for parking lot use...even on carpet without a good tire comound can be hairy. 1/12 run about 3mm off the deck, so even if the dust doesn't break your traction, all it would take is a small pebble so give you greif. On top of that, the gears are very exposed. Just my opinion, but I wud save up the little extra for the touring car as it is much better suited for that environment. Nothing I hate more than spending money on something just to realize I should have gone with something else.
Thanks for the tip. I guess it would better to spend a little more and get more performance than less and end up with something that I can't use.
Oh and I have done that many times with other things. Spend money and then end up selling it for something I should have gotten in the 1st place.
graeme_rsa
06-22-2008, 03:22 PM
rc_flyboy is correct - you can only use 1/12th cars on carpet or on proper dead smooth outdoor racetracks - they are not for bashing ! You would have far more fun with a std touring car!
Regarding brushless - in general only the newer 1/12th chassis can take brushless due to the design of the pod - the newer ones have a 3 bolt upper plate fitting and a cut-away in the left bulkhead which leaves the LHS of the rear pod open to allow for clearance for the motor wires - which tend to exit from the top.
TamiyaIFSDriver
06-25-2008, 08:51 PM
I remember me getting the RC12i and running that in front of the house and it ran fine. I had a blast running with my friend and his Tamiya road wizard. So I wonder why the new RC12 can't run just as good on asphalt. As a matter of fact the street was worse back then then its now. Oh well, I may get a E-Revo or E-Maxx
Kden46
06-26-2008, 04:27 AM
I race 12th scale on a asphalt parking lot at the lhs. The track is prepped with a Juice/Water mix and most everyone runs Double Pinks front and rear, but Magentas work also.
The asphalt is not glass smooth but the 12th Scale cars have no problem racing on it.
I remember running a 12L back in the day on a basketball court and it ran pretty good on that even with it being a pretty dusty court. But I agree if you are looking for something to just mess around with I don't think a 12th Scale would be what your looking for.
Tamiya you can get a good TC for cheaper then a new 12th scale. Something like a TA-05 would work well for you I think.
TamiyaIFSDriver
06-27-2008, 07:58 PM
The new IFS TA-05 is out now, but I am torn between that and the E-Revo :D
winning edge designs
01-01-2009, 04:29 PM
A couple CRC 1/12th bodies for the thread....
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/250/wed10109007nb2.jpg
...Jim
W.E.D.
Kden46
01-03-2009, 02:34 AM
That is KillahZ Jim :eek::cool:
winning edge designs
01-10-2009, 09:14 PM
Thanks! :) I have a couple more I am working on, I will post them soon.
I have been getting quite a few, so it looks good for 1/12th getting stronger!
...Jim
W.E.D.
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