Kyosho V-One S and V-One R v1.0

[NiMo]

VoneR/RR only needs one major upgrade, the Kawahara Negative Diff. All other options are personal choice and are not required.
This is my opinion after running on Rubber and Foam, my car is returned to kit form bar the rear diff and I'm back on the pace again (never get Kfactory parts, they are too fragile).

[Nitromatt]

I picked up some more tires today because I had some stroe gist certificates and It cost me 0$ so I got ofna rims pack of 8 for 8bucs not bad but I heard of them being too stiff and prone to cracking.(real bad with colored ones so I got white) slicks for hotsurfaces. only had 24mm left, with no 24mm rims. got hpi blue inserts(hard).I am used to getting the black ones that are soft, how should the firms affect my driving. It was a pain getting the 24mm to fit right but I got them on with no lumps. Also how bad should these affect my handling being hard inserts and nonbelted.

thanks.

[KingWillie]

I have gone through several servo savers for the steering hook up, also I would suggest some belts. Switch to the Team belts as they have less resistance to rolling and seem to be more durable also.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by NiMo
(never get Kfactory parts, they are too fragile).

I run the K-factory chassis for the V 1 RR, the K-Factory front and rear graphite shock towers and the K-factory derlin shock mounts. These items have quite a bit of time on my vehicle with absolutely no breakage. The parts are not fragile at all in my estimation. They are well tested when I drive! I have seen the K-Factory cast aluminum items and these seem to be a little on the delicate side. Also let me say my son drives a Trinity Reflex and all the K-factory stuff is on this car and he has pulled the pillow balls out of the lower front arm once after a rather harsh hit, had some crappy belts and had the front pulley split. This is the total breakage since June 2003. He races nearly every two weeks and regularly runs in front of our house on the street with it "tunning" as he says. There are quite a few Reflex at our track and they seem to survive the hits of racing quite a bit better than the Serpent 705 and the AE NTC3. We have not had a run of problems with anything other than Trinity's belts. So K-factory stuff seems fine to me other than the price which seems ridiculous.

I have to second Nimo's suggestion of the Kawahara Neg. diff. it is the best hop up for the V1RR that is out there in my opinion.

[Matlock]

Kingwillie- I have a Kimbrough servo saver waiting to be used:) And when you say "team belts", do you mean Trinity belts? Or are their other belts made by Kyosho besides the stockers?

Thanks for the info guys! Keep it coming:D

Oh, are pivot balls broken much? I have never owned a pivot-ball car. If so, what are ebst to upgrade upto?

[KingWillie]

KYOSHO Team belts for the V1 R series cars. They are softer, more durable and only $2.00 more than the regular belts.

[Matlock]

Originally posted by KingWillie
I have to second Nimo's suggestion of the Kawahara Neg. diff. it is the best hop up for the V1RR that is out there in my opinion.

What does the Neg. diff. exactly do?

[KingWillie]

The Kawahara Negative Differential works like a regular differential when decelerating or "off power" and when accelerating it uses a clutch mechanism to engage the rear wheels. The clutch will partially engage at lower RPMs and eventually fully lock up as the RPMs get high enough. It is slightly heavier than the stock diff, but worth the weight penalty. I found that running 2000 wt oil in the diff area of the negative diff gave me good control when decelerating and when "on power" the switch from diff to clutch to fully locked up is a real bonus for handling while on power. Read back through this thread it is mentioned several times more.

View it here. (http://digilander.libero.it/kawahara/main2.htm) :D

[NiMo]

To KingWillie.

What is your average weather temperature, I'm asking because when I was over in America (LA) in Sept '99 I was surprised how warm it stay overnight and how different my car felt in the warmer climate.
The only time that Kfactory bit seem to be OK is when we have temps of over 20C, but we rarely get those temps.
NTC3 cars, we've had them shap swingarms from just going on to the grass, and as for their rear diffs exploding.
Temp here at moment is -2C, may go to local track later as it looks like a warm 9C.

[PCC]

My brother bought some 3Racing universals for his RR and, after looking at them yesterday, I noticed that the pins at the end of the bones are wearing out. The rear outdrive cups are a bit worn, too. Compared to the standard dogbones, these seem to be wearing out faster.

[Nitromatt]

ran a oval race today got 2nd but my friend gave me the gallon of fuel because he has a super and wasnt going to win if I was in 2nd but he didnt relize that I was, and thought I was a lap down. well anyway after the race I took off my new tries and noticed very unusual wear in the inside of the rim. only on the rear right the side of most stress while running oval. It also wore down my hub carrier. I think thats what you call it pretty much all the way down to nothing. Asked some people and most of them said offset was wrong when I showed them but it only happened on 1 rim so I think its not that. someone said its from the bite that tire is getting when rounding the corners. But it did not happen with my hpi rims, or kyosho rims. any thoughts are appreciated I will put up a pic alittle later its dinner time.:p

[Nitromatt]

here is the picture of the rim its not very good but you can get the idea of what it looks like. it did have a big hunk of plastic on the outside but I cut it off. I need better light to do the hub.

[helotaxi]

The rim is flexing and rubbing. You need a stiffer rim to run oval.

[Nitromatt]

oops

[Nitromatt]

look what a rock the size of a fingernail did. :eek: well it doesnt really hurt because the belt is further over to the left.

[Nitromatt]

helotaxi I dont think its that but maybe the opposite. the ofna rims have very little flex this is where they get their bad name, for easily cracking. my hpi rims I can bend them so far to were the tire looks like a oval. same with rims that came with kit. its brighter out so I will try another picture.

[NiMo]

Yo! Nitromatt, What's the problem?
The wheel rubbing things is normal, even on slow tracks, it's something to do with the wheels made for rubber tyres, even inch up Mugen wheels rub.
If you want to see bad rubbing then look at the Serpents, there hubs are larger than all others, even the Mugens and Yokomo's have this rubbing thing.
But have you noticed that you don't get these rubbing problems with Foam wheels.

I use Schumacher wheels, they rub, but they don't strip the Hex when a nut gets loose.

[helotaxi]

Even though they are relatively stiff they still flex. It isn't just the area the tire mounts to that flexes, its the face of the wheel. Looking at the wheel in the picture it looks like the rear face of the wheel has very little in the way of stiffening ribs. That would allow a lot of flex. You can't have and don't want zero flex wheels. Wheel flex allow for traction in the corners. The wheel flexes to account for the varying traction through the different stages of the corner. You add negative camber to account for flex. A perfectly rigid setup will give you wheel chatter and result in zero traction.

Rubber tire wheels flex more to give more traction. They rub more as a combination of more flex and smaller internal diameter. Foam tires provide more traction and can use smaller amounts of wheel flex as a result. For foams, less wheel flex is desirable because it means more consistency and predictability.

[Nitromatt]

do you think I should go to more negative camber to correct this. I would rather have less traction then go through hubs every other week of racing.

[Nitromatt]

as I am looking more closely I am thinking that something got stuck between the rim and the hub like a little rock. The reason I am thinking of this is because there was a real deep groove on the rim about as deep as the space between your spacebar and keyboard outlining. rough estimate but if you put that gap into depth thats about what it is. But then this theory gets killed when you look at the hub unless it was a rock that was wide then skinny. skinny more sharp part on the rim and wide on the hub. Maybe that was it because it is not like that with my hpi rims and x-patterns or with kit rims and slicks. Just a theory that popped in my head probally wrong but maybe?

[helotaxi]

More camber won't fix the problem. Only way to fix the problem is to go to a rim that is either stiffer (better bracing) or has a larger inner diameter (made to fit a Serpent).

I don't see how something getting jammed in there would wear the hub and the rim.

The relationship between camber and flex is thus. The contact patch of the tire is the only part of the tire providing any traction, it's the only part touching the track. If you set zero camber, you would have maximum traction in a straight line. Great for drag racing with an over powered engine, but we want to be able to turn. Once you add lateral acceleration to the mix things change. Lateral G's flex the disk portion of the wheel and now our perfect contact patch is tilted and we are driving on the edge of the tire. We need extra traction to change the direction of the car but we have less because of the reduced contact patch. The fix? Lean the tires in toward the center. Now you have less traction in a straight line but when you turn, the contact patch flattens out and maximizes the amount of rubber on the road. Basically what this means is you should adjust your camber to the point where your tires wear evenly. The even wear is a sign of the contact patch being flat in the turns. If you are running oval, you might want to go to positive camber on the left side of the car.

[KingWillie]

NImo; we race all year so temps can vary from 10 to 30 C degrees. Or in F 45 to 105 degrees, my conversions are a little rusty. Racing this past winter I have never seen anything break as much as the NTC3s and the JACO Nitro Shoes rims. They broke so much in the cold people stopped using them. The good news is it is warming up finally, the bad news is it's rain season. :(

[Nitromatt]

What exactly are the benefits to aluminum pulleys. Do they last any longer than the plastic ones? Are they more forgiving if 1 rock gets caught in there. Are they heavier? Any down sides besides they cost more to replace. And where can I find a new sterring servo saver? thanks

[autotr8er]

The aluminum pulleys I've found so far use a soft aluminum alloy. they are mainly for looks. I've run the plastic and aluminum pulleys and have found that I have to replace the aluminum twice as often. There is a company that makes better pulleys but at limited production and only on request. I'll try and find them if you are interested. The cost is higher than the stuff from overseas but lasts much longer and is machined to be as light at the plastic ones.

[autotr8er]

Originally posted by helotaxi
Even though they are relatively stiff they still flex. It isn't just the area the tire mounts to that flexes, its the face of the wheel. Looking at the wheel in the picture it looks like the rear face of the wheel has very little in the way of stiffening ribs. That would allow a lot of flex. You can't have and don't want zero flex wheels. Wheel flex allow for traction in the corners. The wheel flexes to account for the varying traction through the different stages of the corner. You add negative camber to account for flex. A perfectly rigid setup will give you wheel chatter and result in zero traction.

Rubber tire wheels flex more to give more traction. They rub more as a combination of more flex and smaller internal diameter. Foam tires provide more traction and can use smaller amounts of wheel flex as a result. For foams, less wheel flex is desirable because it means more consistency and predictability.
Hey Helo, I sell carbon composite wheels for rubber tires that DON'T flex. Think anyone would be interested in them?

[Nitromatt]

I am interested. exactly how much would it cost for 8. thanks

[helotaxi]

auto- They must flex. You may not notice the flex because it is so small, but they must flex. How well do they hold up to impacts with the boards, other cars, etc... I would think with them being really stiff they would not be very resilient. I know that is the case with the carbon composite suspension parts. They are stiff as all get out but quite fragile.

[autotr8er]

Well here is the thing. Our cars are 1/10 scale of the full size cars. Do 1:1 wheels flex? No. Why? When you take these nylon wheels and run them, the flex is so great that you end up with a warped wheel.

So why are these wheels so prevalent. Cost. They are cheaper to make and 95% of the "racers" out there do not know how to set up a car. Why make a wheel that only 5% of the knowledgeable racers out there will use?

A flexible wheel helps to make the car a little more manageable for people that don't know how to set up the suspension.

Well, these wheels are more expensive, but will last 3 times as long. As far as impacts go, you will shear a suspension arm before you break one of these wheels.

Why spend 30 mins to an hour setting up your car, only to have the handling be compromised by a flexing wheel. Or, what we have all seen, the inside hub is rubbing on the steering knuckle, slowing you down.

With these wheels, you don't have to adjust the suspension to compensate for flex. You are not having to tune your car around wheels designed for inexperienced "racers." You are free to tune the car like it's supposed to be tuned. Run fast and hard, not run fast and flex. :D

Oh, one more thing. The term "fragile" does not apply to carbon glass filled components. "Brittle" is the term used to describe those parts once they break. But to get them there takes a tremendous amount of force relative to a "plastic" part.

Whew! Out of breath. Does that answer any questions?

The negative Diff is definitely awesome!!!!!

[Nitromatt]

that answers almost all of them except for the price of 4or 8. Also thanks alot for all your help Helotaxi and Kingwillie. Just wish you guys were with me at my track with all that knowledge.:)

[helotaxi]

Originally posted by autotr8er
Well here is the thing. Our cars are 1/10 scale of the full size cars. Do 1:1 wheels flex?

Yes they do flex. There is no such thing as zero flex. Excessive flex is very bad but zero flex is impossible. The designers of 1:1 racecars minimize flex as much as they can, but they realize that excessive stiffness leads to excessive brittleness. There are materials that could make 1:1 wheels stiffer and/or lighterbut they use steel. Why because they are going to flex and stiffer materials will suffer fatigue failure much sooner.

So why are these wheels so prevalent. Cost. They are cheaper to make and 95% of the "racers" out there do not know how to set up a car. Why make a wheel that only 5% of the knowledgeable racers out there will use?

A more flexible wheel is more forgiving to drive. Our cars are only theorectically 1/10 scale replicas. If they were truely scale they would only travel at 15mph. At that speed the "perfect setup" would be drivable. Reality is that our cars travel at speeds approaching 700 scale MPH. Weights and forces don't scale in a linear fashion, otherwise our cars would weigh around 200 lbs and would have engines producing 20-40 HP. Since our cars don't weigh as much we don't need the same absolute stiffness as a 1:1. Our cars also need the resiliency to survive high-speed impacts and stay on the track. Stiffness is the antithesis of resiliency. RC parts are designed to strike a happy medium between stiffness and resiliency. Because the car is lighter and the forces involved are much less material stiffness is not as much an issue as with 1:1. The parts are only as stiff as they need to be.

A flexible wheel helps to make the car a little more manageable for people that don't know how to set up the suspension.

It also soaks up some of the irregularities in the track surface and dampens out abrupt wheel movements and flex will alleviate some of the twitchiness at speed.

Why spend 30 mins to an hour setting up your car, only to have the handling be compromised by a flexing wheel. Or, what we have all seen, the inside hub is rubbing on the steering knuckle, slowing you down.

If you spend a hour setting up the car you will account for wheel flex. If you don't then you have no idea how to set up a car. Good wheels flex predictably, consistently and not excessively. Wheel flex is something accounted for not compensated for. If your wheel is rubbing on the hub your either are running too flexible a wheel or a wheel not meant to fit your car. You CAN have too little flex. Evidence of this will be excessive tire wear. You said these rims last three time longer than standard wheels. I don't go through wheels; I go through tires.

Oh, one more thing. The term "fragile" does not apply to carbon glass filled components. "Brittle" is the term used to describe those parts once they break. But to get them there takes a tremendous amount of force relative to a "plastic" part.

There is an important distinction here. Brittle parts also suffer from fatigue failures sooner than ductile (flexible) parts.

[KingWillie]

Hey guys, I've switched from Nitro Shoes over to the new Speed Mind tires with their K28 wheels. This is a solid wheel and seems fairly resilient (spelling?) and quite stiff. It gives, but nothing like the Nitro Shoes. Their foam seems quite comparable to the Nitro Shoes also.
I'm also going to give Power Tires a try soon as their wheels take a beating and keep on rolling. I believe they are original equipment for KYOSHO V 1 R series cars.
Here is the best part, I'm buying these foams mounted at RC Model HK (http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/) for less than $9.00 US a pair. That's a savings of 50% over the Nitro Warehouse in California and they have pretty good pricing.:cool:

[Nitromatt]

looking to replace all of my pulleys because they are wearing out, and I will be moving to a prepared permanet race spot soon. I found a set of three18,and 1 27 tooth pulley but I cannot find any 19tooth pulleys. except for aluminum 1's:( lot of money:( and In the instruction manual it does not say how many teeth the belt has just small middle and front.:confused: And I would like to get the belts kingwillie prefered earlier in this thread or the reflex thread but dont know which ones they are. Also will the fantom spur gears work. I want to move to a 49tand 45t It says the 49t is 2nd gear but looks like the vir first gear will it work. same with pinions, will fantom work.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Nitromatt
And I would like to get the belts kingwillie prefered earlier in this thread or the reflex thread but dont know which ones they are.

KYOSHO Part numbers for "Special" Belts;

VZW012 - Front Belt
VZW014 - Rear Belt
VZW016 - Middle Belt

[Nitromatt]

well now I am looking to get my car to rr spec. I have all this so far, what else do I need besides the clutch, and oneway.http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXF2&P=7
I dont know what theese are for but I got them any way.http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXJ2&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXG1&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXF0&P=0
And all the belts. and this bad boy.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKX7&P=K
Are all the pulleys the same as the v1r? Anything besides clutch and front oneway? Thanks guys:)

[YR4Dude]

Hey guys sorry I missed the debate on wheel stiffness but has anyone thought about wheel balancing??? All the pros do it for electric and since gas is so much faster why not that as well? Can't say I do that for myself but maybe the imbalance of the wheel is a cause for the rubbing.

Anyways, King Willie, how are the Speedmind 9.00/ea?? The site you linked us to says 12.00/ea. Also what about shipping?? Doesn't that factor into the cost. How many sets of tires with shipping do have to buy to make it worthwhile?. One more thing, dish wheels, they're cool and aerodynamic but how do you make suspension adjustments with them on? I've seen others do it but they drill a hole in the wheel for adjusting.

Lastly, Nitromatt, I've already debated this before in upgrading to RR spec by getting the additional parts and the conclusion was that it was more economical to buy a new RR kit than to mess with the parts and pieces. I suggest you talk to Helotaxi about that. You'd be better off in the long run going that way to an RR.

As for the motor you got, Sirio 3 port, for an additional $10 you could have gotten the 5 port outlaw. That motor is fast!!!. I finally worked out my problems with the motor. I had swapped in a Novarossi carb in it at first due to a problem with the Sirio carb sticking. Anyways, it runs best with the Sirio carb (sticking problem fixed of course). Apparantly the venturi that is in the Sirio carb is critical for proper fuel mixture to get the motor running right. Don't know why about the details perhaps someoe else could explain. Anyways for less than $180, the Sirio 5 port is a bargain.

Anyone looking to upgrade to 1/8th with the F2002 Kyosho? Its practically a large scale version of the V One R. Hey Helotaxi, how much are those in Japan?

[helotaxi]

I've a feeling that the balance weights would pose serious clearance issues with most pillowball cars. The wheels are rubbing sometimes as it is. I know you use use really thin strips of lead tape but every little fraction of a mm matters. With dish wheels you could attach the weight to the back of the dish but I only run spoked.

I don't remember how much the Fantom is over here. I saw one in the shop last time I was downtown. Probably at least $100 cheaper than Tower. That is pretty much the standard for Kyosho prices.

[NiMo]

and In the instruction manual it does not say how many teeth the belt has

Take the belt number (378), divide by 3, = 126.

same applies to all 3 belts.

(i spent ages counting the belts before i realized this)

[Nitromatt]

I noticed that the rim was actually cracked! it is real hard to see but its there small and all. boiled the tire and rim came off with slight work, put a new one on and bam works great. as for outlaw sirio engine. outlaw means outlaw new track doesnt allow it. As for upgrading to rr spec. When I bought the r I didnt really know much of anything about kyosho and didnt really know about the rr so I just grabbed the r with no thought. How much will a stock r sell for with 4 races and 5days worth of practice on it.will also throw in a o.s.12 cvr (no carb though) okay compression if buyer wants to buy doesnt have to if he deosnt want it. including new pulleys and rear belt. Nothing brokeneverything in good order bearings all good not gritty. If I get a good price on it and have enough money I will do that. But the rr is expensive in the u.s. dont know how much it is in Japan but I dont know anyone that lives there so thats out of the question. As for talking to helotaxi about what? And Nimo thanks for the tip about the belts.:D

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by YR4Dude
King Willie, how are the Speedmind 9.00/ea?? The site you linked us to says 12.00/ea. Also what about shipping?? Doesn't that factor into the cost. How many sets of tires with shipping do have to buy to make it worthwhile?. One more thing, dish wheels, they're cool and aerodynamic but how do you make suspension adjustments with them on? I've seen others do it but they drill a hole in the wheel for adjusting.


When I bought my set of wheels three weeks ago I paid $9.80 per pair, I purchased 6 pairs. Shipping was around $13 US, I use their standard shipping method arrives in about 7-10days. By my estimation I saved about $30 US, that's ridiculous! As far as the choice of dish wheels, I bought them because I got sick of my Nitro Shoes breaking during the cold weather racing, the K28 wheel is significantly stronger and less flexible than the Nitro Shoes wheels. As for adjusting the suspension, I will remove the wheels. Personally I don't want to compromise the wheels with any holes, besides I use the HUDY system. When the weather warms up I will probably switch back to Nitro Shoes, I like them quite a bit.;)

PS We went with the Sirio ROAR legal engine also for the same reason, outlaw is oulawed in the Roar rules tracks around here.

[YR4Dude]

Okay, since you guys don't have an outlaw class at your tracks, then what's the fastest 3 port ROAR legal motor right now? Is it the new MR-12??????

Word had it that it is faster than a JP Mod motor. So is it the motor to get?

[helotaxi]

Originally posted by Nitromatt
But the rr is expensive in the u.s. dont know how much it is in Japan but I dont know anyone that lives there so thats out of the question. As for talking to helotaxi about what?

He meant talk to me about getting a RR from Japan. I live in Tokyo, at least until the end of the month. The exchange rate isn't what it was when I got one for Kingwillie. I could send you one for $260 including shipping. I need to know soon. I am making my last shopping trip this weekend. E-mail me if you are interested. helotaxi@yta.attmil.ne.jp

Anybody else need anything? Last chance.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by YR4Dude
Okay, since you guys don't have an outlaw class at your tracks, then what's the fastest 3 port ROAR legal motor right now? Is it the new MR-12??????

Word had it that it is faster than a JP Mod motor. So is it the motor to get?

I'd have to say the Sirio 0.12 ROAR legal engine has a great mid to top end so if your on a fast track that may be a good choice. I have been running a OS TR .12 an MT-12 and the Sirio 0.12 lately. The TR is better on the low end than either of the other two and very good mid-range it just doesn't quite have the legs the other two have, but all around it is a great pick as are the other two engines. I'm not sure that helped. :confused:

[autotr8er]

Originally posted by helotaxi
Yes they do flex. There is no such thing as zero flex. Correct, but Magnesium alloy wheels that the 1:1 racers use have some flex, (3mm for a 225mm distance). That's only 1%. In comparison to scale, 1/10 wheels flex 2-3mm over 11mm distance. That's 27%. Excessive flex is very bad but zero flex is impossible. Agreed, but there is a term in engineering called negligible. I don't know what your background is, so I speak in layman's terms. The designers of 1:1 racecars minimize flex as much as they can, but they realize that excessive stiffness leads to excessive brittleness. There are materials that could make 1:1 wheels stiffer and/or lighterbut they use steel. Steel? Are you talking NASCAR??? Why because they are going to flex and stiffer materials will suffer fatigue failure much sooner. Define much sooner. Fatigue and failure are two different phenomenon. Fatigue is where the material modulus starts to change. Failure is exactly as it implies, the material fractures.

Do you know at what angle all material fractures? Put your answer here _____


A more flexible wheel is more forgiving to drive. Our cars are only theorectically 1/10 scale replicas. If they were truely scale they would only travel at 15mph. At that speed the "perfect setup" would be drivable. Reality is that our cars travel at speeds approaching 700 scale MPH. Weights and forces don't scale in a linear fashion, otherwise our cars would weigh around 200 lbs and would have engines producing 20-40 HP. Since our cars don't weigh as much we don't need the same absolute stiffness as a 1:1. Then take all the aluminum pieces off of your car and replace them with fiberglass to prove your point Our cars also need the resiliency to survive high-speed impacts and stay on the track. Stiffness is the antithesis of resiliency. Antithesis is the wrong word again. Stiffness is a materials abilility to retain its shape. Resilience is the materials ability to absorb and release energy. Toughness is ability of a material to absorb energy without fracturing. So if you want to us antithesis, put resiliency and toughness together. RC parts are designed to strike a happy medium between stiffness and resiliency. Because the car is lighter and the forces involved are much less material stiffness is not as much an issue as with 1:1. The parts are only as stiff as they need to be.



It also soaks up some of the irregularities in the track surface and dampens out abrupt wheel movements and flex will alleviate some of the twitchiness at speed. Um, that's what foam inserts are for.



If you spend a hour setting up the car you will account for wheel flex. If you don't then you have no idea how to set up a car. Good wheels flex predictably, consistently and not excessively. Wheel flex is something accounted for not compensated for. If your wheel is rubbing on the hub your either are running too flexible a wheel or a wheel not meant to fit your car. You CAN have too little flex. Evidence of this will be excessive tire wear. You said these rims last three time longer than standard wheels. I don't go through wheels; I go through tires. I go through tires as well. When I say that these wheels last three times longer it's because all materials will experience fatigue and some are able to handle it longer. Here's a perfect example. Look at the arms of the V-one RR and say a HPI. See the difference? Now, you have a heavier car (v-one) with aramid glass-filled plastic and a lighter car (HPI) with standard ABS plastic arms. Put them both into a wall at say 45 degrees at the same velocity and see who survives.


There is an important distinction here. Brittle parts also suffer from fatigue failures There's that word again. sooner than ductile (flexible) parts. Ductile and flexible are two different phenomenon as well, Helo. Ductile is a materials ability to be stretched and retain it's shape. Example, steel wire is drawn and remains the same diameter provided it's environment (ie. temperature, pressure) do not change. Flexible is a term used to describe a materials ability to absorb energy and return to it's original shape. Now, Flexibility (f = 1/k) is the inverse of stiffness (k = 1/f). Or as you like to say, Flexibility is the antithesis of stiffness. Look at any basic engineering text and you will see that I am correct. I'm not here to say you are wrong or that you don't know what you are talking about. Your insight is correct on many areas, but your understanding is a bit vague. Just a little more insight. I have a degree in Electrical and Mechanical engineering. I have raced 1:1 cars in SCCA Formula Fords and Mazdas. I've been in engineering for 10 years now.

When you make it back to the U.S. We should get together and race our cars side by side. Nylon vs Carbon Composite Wheels.

Long story short, Helo, you should have just said you weren't interested in the wheels I have.:D

Later, all.

[Jack_Schitt]

:confused:

[YR4Dude]

Wow that was one hell of a lesson in material science. Hey how come there wasn't any mention about the elasticity modulus??

Anyways, lets all get back to what this is all about. Its a hobby. Some are more skilled than others. Some are just doing it to have fun. I think if the level of seriousness was raised to the point where these debates happen on a regular basis, about 3/4 of us would drop out and find something easier to do like flying Zagi's.

Certainly I never thought I would have to consider fatigue and stress in the parts that I use otherwise I would insist that the Hobby shop provide Rockwell numbers on all the parts I buy from them.

However, one thing I learned about this hobby is that nothing about these cars make sense. Take for instance lexan bodies. How is it that a Stratus is the hot ticket for RC when its real life counterpart is a piece of @#R%*!!! Now explain that! Also, I've also noticed that if someone figures a way to go fast with rubberbands and bubblegum, everyone will eventually copy that set-up and there might even be a kit for that as well.

So bottom line, lets just have fun.

BTW, my criteria for wheels is that they must look good and that they fit over my hubs. I'm sure thats the same criteria for many others:cool:

[autotr8er]

LMAO :D

Actually I did mention Modulus. Short for Modulus of elasticity.

But, Yeah, I know it's all for fun. :D

[KingWillie]

hehehe.....Autotr8er is in the house! :D

[Nitromatt]

should I get the kyosho adjustable clutch? is it worth it the one that come s with the rr. or does kawahara make a better one that is more reliable? thanks

[Nitromatt]

should I get the kyosho adjustable clutch? is it worth it the one that come s with the rr. or does kawahara make a better one that is more reliable? thankshttp://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXG5&P=7 this one

[KingWillie]

The centax style clutch in the RR is very good no reason to replace it. However if you do not own the RR the Kawahara is a very nice alternative. It is smaller and lighter than the Kyosho RR clutch which was borrowed from the Fantom 1/8th scale racer. Both are quite nice.

[adlawoo]

Hi to all! I apologize for posting here...I got a Reflex and thinking of rebuilding/replacing my Diffs...my question is that - can I buy/use the V-One R Diffs to Reflex and also the Front One-Way Diffs too! It is just Kyosho's parts are more on quallity and durability. Many Thanks! :D

[PCC]

KingWillie, the RR Centax is not the same as the Fantom Centax. My LHS sourced all the parts for the Fantom Centax and it is way different than the RR Centaxes I have seen.

I just joined the RR club. My brother owed me some money so he decided to give me his RR instead. It came with a MT12 engine, Kawahara Negative diff, universals all around, and about $100 in spares. The front one-way and the rear swaybar are brand new, unused because he never installed them. He built the car with a front gear diff and never put the rear swaybar on because he liked the way it handled with the front diff. Looks like I'm going to sell my GRP...

[Godspeed]

Hey guys, care to share the weights of the diff oil you guys use in the front and rear differentials for your cars? Thanks. :)

[helotaxi]

auto- Actually I am interested in your wheels, but for my TC-3 not my nitros. Materials fail at a 45 to answer your question. My background is a pretty broad scope BS in Econ (if you can name the school that gives that one I'll be really impressed.) Core classes included engineering mechanics, CE, Aero, Astro, EE and Thermo, differential calc and stats (all for an Econ deg lol.) I haven't studied this stuff in depth in a while, my terminology is obviously a bit off but concepts are close, yes? I do a bit of machining in my spare time. I have also a bit of experience in aviation mishap investigation (fatigue failure is pretty common as a cause and being able to tell the difference between fatigue and overstress is a bit important.)

You mentioned running a HPI and a V-one into a wall at 45. The wall will come out OK. The cars are both way broke. I speak from experience. Better example is the Losi Graphite parts. I have a XXX Kinwald. The Graphite parts are stiff as all get out, but I snap front A-arms like twigs. Same crash that broke 3 graphite arms didn't phase a normal arm. It just bounced back none the worse for wear. Like I said, the key is balance. Too stiff a part will either snap rather than flex or transfer the force to another part that is always harder to get too and usually more expensive. Ti parts are another great example. People think that they are stronger, bar none than steel. The difference is the Ti flexes slightly and then returns to shape. Very rarely do they permanently deform; they usually break instead. Steel rarely breaks in two. It usually just bends. Both have their advantages depending on the situation.

You know this stuff better than I do, definitely in terms of formulas and terminology.

I still have to say that proper racing wheels that are readily available are more than stiff enough for the forces we subject them to. Composite wheels are really overkill, again, my opinion.

I'm not sure I understand your comment about replacing aluminum with fiberglass. What were you referring to?

[helotaxi]

What wheels are you guys that are running rubber tires using. I only use Yokomo rims and they don't flex (negligible flex for you auto). I can't imagine the composite rims being usably stiffer and I know they cost more than $3 for 4. I had durability problems with one of the Yokomo designs. The center of the rim would break free from the rest of the wheel. Needless to say, I don't get that style anymore. I only use rubber tires on my electrics anyway. On my nitros I use only foam. Foam tire rims are hella stiff.

[coastal-tony]

I am switching from rubber to foam on my Vone.
Would someone be kind enough to post a set-up for a high-bite asphalt track?
Most of the racers are using NTC3s and I am the only person with a Kyosho.

[autotr8er]

Hey KingWillie! Leave it to me to come in stompin' :D

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by PCC
KingWillie, the RR Centax is not the same as the Fantom Centax. My LHS sourced all the parts for the Fantom Centax and it is way different than the RR Centaxes I have seen.


Your LHS has made some type of error. If you call Great Planes they will tell you that KYOSHO 3D clutch assembly VZ090 is used in both the V1RR and the Fantom and the new Evolution 2001. You can check for yourself also. Look under parts on the V1RR and the Evolution parts list on Tower Hobbies site. You will see both cars use the same full assembly. Possibly they change individual parts numbers for each car, but I wouldn't think so. Here's the clincher; I have recently purchased a full assembly for my GRP from the Fantom parts list. Works just fine. I bought from RC Model HK, it was cheaper than the Kawahara.

[Ranger144]

Hey, Helo:

The only schools that offer a BS in Econ that I know of are the service academies. From the "core courses" you listed, I'll have to guess you're a USAFA grad. Am I right?

What can I say but, "Go Army, Beat Air Force!"

Ranger144
USMA '91
BS in Mathematical Economics

[PCC]

Kingwillie, they sourced the parts from Great Planes as they are the exclusive importer of Kyosho. They ordered the Fantom manual and bought all the little parts from that. This was early last year. I distinctly remember the flyweights as being metal cones like used in the Picco 1/8 cars.

[helotaxi]

Originally posted by Ranger144
The only schools that offer a BS in Econ that I know of are the service academies. From the "core courses" you listed, I'll have to guess you're a USAFA grad. Am I right?

You are correct, sir.

What can I say but, "Go Army, Beat Air Force!"

Not in this lifetime!!! :D

BS in Mathematical Economics

Takes one to know one, I guess.

helotaxi
USAFA '97

[autotr8er]

Cameron University, Electrical Engineering, '92
University of Oklahoma, Mechanical Engineering, '00.

I know, I'm a sick one.

Congrats on the AF academy. Much respect for you.

So, are you into the stock market (making/losing money) or are you able to describe what the *&^$ is going on?

[Ranger144]

Helo:

I presume you're still in. I got out in '95 (CPT, Infantry (Light)) and have been in finance (as a dirty, nasty civilian) ever since. Have a company with some partners. My USMA roommate actually branched AF and is now a MAJ in a stealth wing (not flying though, much to his chagrin). He was about 4 hours north of Tokyo for several years. You staying in? Where are you heading next?

Auto:

Market sux right now. War fears... Iraq, N. Korea (been on that DMZ...kookie place for sure), plus terrorism, economy, etc. "Experts" predict an intermediate term trading range (possibly for a couple or more years) where the market goes up and down, and up and down, but doesn't really go anywhere. Bonds are no good because the general consensus is a rise in interest rates in the coming months, which would hurt the price of bonds. Alternative investments are doing very well, but those are only for "accredited investors" (i.e., liquid net worth >= $1.5m (US)).

All:

I finally got my RR on the track yesterday and as they said in Days of Thunder, "[I'm] all loose in the back end!" Gotta do some serious tuning. This is my first one way up front (Kawahara neg in the back).

[YR4Dude]

You should take the rear sway bar off and try using a light diff oil in the neg diff. like 1000wt or 2000wt.

[oldginger]

Just wanted to let you guys know that RCHub Distributors carries over 30 high quality hop-ups for your V-ONE-R, RR and S, so check them out at http://www.rchub.com

Below are just a few samples:
-Graphite Bumper Plate:
http://www.rchub.com/gfx/3racing/V1R/300/KV003-m.jpg
-Front One-Way Tube:
http://www.rchub.com/gfx/3racing/V1R/300/KV005-m.jpg
-Fast Gear Radio Conversion Kit
http://www.rchub.com/gfx/3racing/V1R/300/KV036-m.jpg

[Ranger144]

YR4:

Thanks. I am running 1000wt in the diff. Before I take off the rear swaybar, I am going to get my camber/toe set a little better. Then I think I'll be able to make some educated changes.

I'll keep you posted on things.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by PCC
Kingwillie, they sourced the parts from Great Planes as they are the exclusive importer of Kyosho. They ordered the Fantom manual and bought all the little parts from that. This was early last year. I distinctly remember the flyweights as being metal cones like used in the Picco 1/8 cars.

I don't understand this as they, KYOSHO (Great Planes), advertise the RR as having the Fantom's clutch and I actually purchased my KYOSHO 3d from the Evolutions part list as I had read that they were the same in magazines and just assumed this was true. I bought the entire assembly VZ090, which is listed under the KYOSHO Official Parts List (http://www.kyosho.com/parts/xr31281b.html) for the Evolution/Fantom, check it out 2/3rd's of the way down the page. Well this is certainly odd, if I come across the ad I'll link it for you, but thanks for discussing this. I don't want to beat a dead horse. ;)

[helotaxi]

Originally posted by Ranger144
Helo:

I presume you're still in. I got out in '95 (CPT, Infantry (Light)) and have been in finance (as a dirty, nasty civilian) ever since. Have a company with some partners. My USMA roommate actually branched AF and is now a MAJ in a stealth wing (not flying though, much to his chagrin). He was about 4 hours north of Tokyo for several years. You staying in? Where are you heading next?

I'm probably a lifer. I owe 4 more years come this Oct. 8 year pilot raining commitment. Market on the outside for helo pilots isn't all that good and the Air Force will pay me really well to stick around, especially once my commitment is up.

Market sux right now. War fears... Iraq, N. Korea (been on that DMZ...kookie place for sure), plus terrorism, economy, etc. "Experts" predict an intermediate term trading range (possibly for a couple or more years) where the market goes up and down, and up and down, but doesn't really go anywhere. Bonds are no good because the general consensus is a rise in interest rates in the coming months, which would hurt the price of bonds. Alternative investments are doing very well, but those are only for "accredited investors" (i.e., liquid net worth >= $1.5m (US)).

If you have money in older bonds you're sittin kinda pretty right now though. The stock market was on its way down before all this started. The current situation is just keeping it from recovering as it probably would have. Most economic indicators are not all that bad. If the press would preach something other than gloom and doom, the people that don't understand how things work economically might speend some money and help boost the market. The market was WAY inflated in my opinion anyway. Example: Yahoo produces nothing. They make money solely on advertising money. There was no reason fro that stock to be priced at $120. The "day-traders" didn't know what they were doing and bought on name recognition alone and not on strength of business. They had money, and managed to bid the prices up to ridiculous levels. The "real" investors (Warren Buffet for example) stayed the heck away. I am rather passionate about the economy as a political tool so I won't get started on how the previous President and the Dem Congress managed to torpedo the great economy they were handed by Reagan and Bush I.

[autotr8er]

Yeah, Clinton was a punk!

[Ranger144]

Helo:

What bird do you fly? My brother (USMA '85) was a Cobra pilot back in the 80's. Now he manages a mutual fund for Goldman Sachs.

I agree with most of what you said re: the market. I don't feel that fundamentals are as sound as you do, but that's why we've got opinions. And, of course, any bond held to maturity makes interim mark-to-market price fluctuations irrevelant.

Anyway...back to the Main:

I am about to buy a Hudy Ultimate Setup System. Does anyone on here have a better recommendation? I have been borrowing a buddy's stuff, but want to get my own.

[Matlock]

Originally posted by Ranger144
I am about to buy a Hudy Ultimate Setup System. Does anyone on here have a better recommendation? I have been borrowing a buddy's stuff, but want to get my own.

Integy setup station. Cheap, nicer and comes with a case. What more can you ask for? Different colors maybe? Well, YES IT COMES IT MORE THEN ONE COLOR!!!! But wait, their's more; It's ALL ALUMINUM! Thats right! All aluminum!

Hehehe, I love doing that:D

Here's the site
http://integy.com/

[helotaxi]

I have one of these. Cheaper than the Hudy and won't warp if you leave in your car in the hot sun. The only thing I need to get now is the laser tweek board.

[jimmy]

Hi to all! I found a place to buy V-one parts and hop up cheap. www.rcsquare.com . There's 3 racing's hop up and kyosho parts in low price. I have order some and it is great!

[helotaxi]

autotr8er- I see you bought yourself a STS engine. I got the next one the guy put up. You will probably be able to run yours first since I am going to be without all my stuff for at least a month. Let us know what you think.

[Matlock]

Hey guys. I got my stuff for my v1r, I'm just waiting for IT to come now:p


Do you guys have any tips for building my v1r when it comes? Like things to watch out for? Thanks


Here Are The Parts That Came (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119263)

[KingWillie]

I don't recall any problems with building the kit. Sometimes KYOSHO sends you to a huge parts bag to find this tiny little piece, but other than that should be fun. I don't think there is musch to worry about. ;)

[Matlock]

Yeah, I have been through that before:) I have built a couple other kits, I've got meself a system now.

Thanks guys

[helotaxi]

Originally posted by KingWillie
Sometimes KYOSHO sends you to a huge parts bag to find this tiny little piece
Screws and E-clips. I replaced all the screws as I built my RR so this wasn't an issue. But I remember from my 3 previous Kyosho kits, digging for screws was a real pain.

[evild]

Can the Kawahara Negative Diff be used on the V-One S?

Has any one had experience with the O.S. 12TR? I'm thinking about installing it in my V-One S. What brand of tuned pipe are you using?

Thanks.

http://www.evild.com/wegottaracing/

[helotaxi]

The neg diff will drop intl the V-oneS with no modification.

I had a TR in my S which I just sold and have one in my R still. It is a great engine. Easy to tune, plenty of power and reliable as they come. I am running the Kyosho one-piece pipe with the TR. That setup won't work on the S unfortunately. The header sticks out too far and protrudes beyond the edge of the tires and pushes out the body. The header meant for the Yokomo GT-4 works well. I was using an Eagle Racing pipe and GT-4 header on my S with the TR and that is the setup I sold it with.

[evild]

Originally posted by helotaxi
The neg diff will drop intl the V-oneS with no modification.

I had a TR in my S which I just sold and have one in my R still. It is a great engine. Easy to tune, plenty of power and reliable as they come. I am running the Kyosho one-piece pipe with the TR. That setup won't work on the S unfortunately. The header sticks out too far and protrudes beyond the edge of the tires and pushes out the body. The header meant for the Yokomo GT-4 works well. I was using an Eagle Racing pipe and GT-4 header on my S with the TR and that is the setup I sold it with.

Thanks for the advice, Helo! I'm sure this will help other V-One S owners as well.

----
http://www.evild.com/wegottaracing/

[TanMingChau]

Sorry! This is only for people in Malaysia. V 1 S for sale. Condition is good with new gold option chassis.
Going cheap! Contact 012-3133429.

[kLepToKoKo]

just received a floating rear pod and wide bumper in the mail, took a while to install because the original turbuckles were required. About a year ago i switched em off and trashed em somewhere :eek:

http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL208/994551/1850631/22042945.jpg http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL208/994551/1850631/22087390.jpg

http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL208/994551/1850631/22042830.jpg http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL208/994551/1850631/22087627.jpg

http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL208/994551/1850631/22042823.jpg

if anyone wants detailed pics just ask

[helotaxi]

I would suggest putting some form of brace back on between the front shock upper mounts. It will add strength and reduce flex in the bulkheads. It will also reduce the chance of breaking the bulk in a crash.

I also noticed that the guide pin that goes through the floating rear mount is not there. That pin is needed to keep the mount centered.

[kLepToKoKo]

helotaxi: thanks for the suggestion, i doubted there would be noticable flex since the mounts are directly connected to the bulkhead, and after two years i have yet to damage any part of that area.

I only bought the rear pod's part tree, so it didnt come with any hardware and i had to create my own. It was getting dark so i took pics before it was complete

http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL208/994551/1850631/22087379.jpg

[Nitromatt]

Is that a hpi sticker I see:D
My friend just got a serpent 705 and it rolls way smoother than mine. I am guessing that is because of the front oneway correct? If I switched to the front 1way it should roll that smooth correct? Because with both diffs it would hardly roll. even with the brake pad screw all the way out and it completely disengaged. when it rolls it doesnt sound as if anything is binding up. reoiled all bearings had to replace 2 because they were so gritty it was hard to make them move, but the rest were smooth with no grit feeling. brand new pulleys so no rocks, new special belts. I have the stock weights they say to use in the manual for the diffs. But with a real hard push it'll roll maybe 7-8ft. give his serpent a hard push it goes easily twice as far. I am just wondering if anyone has any tips for things that could be binding. or is that how it is with two diffs? thanks;)

[PCC]

kLepToKoKo, is that a MTX2 or MTX3? I thought this was the V-One R/V-One S thread?

[helotaxi]

It's a V-oneS with the floating body mount off the RR.

[evild]

Originally posted by helotaxi
It's a V-oneS with the floating body mount off the RR.

Really!? It doesn't look like a V-One S with the two servos in the center. If it is... Wow!

----
http://www.evild.com/wegottaracing/

[helotaxi]

How many V-oneS's have you seen? The stock layout places the servos down the center like that. You may have seen one with the optional Kyosho carbon fiber upper deck which moves the layout around and makes it more like the V-one-R/RR.

[evild]

I guess it threw me off without the throttle linkage on the side, the different rear bulkhead and floating body mount. I was thinking of the V-One R that has the fuel tank in the center.

I've been working on my RC10GT so much, I forgot what my car looked like inside. I had to take the body off my V-One S to remember!

(And 10:34PM is late for me. I could have been drunk.)

----
http://www.evild.com/wegottaracing/

[VunoS]

Hello everyone,

kLepToKoKo ... That is very cool looking chassis.
I like what you have done to your V one S.

If you don't mind, could you give me the part number to convert from original to yours? just the floating body mount part.

I have V one S with graphite upper deck and currently building the V one R GRP (silver package) version. Thinking about convert one of mine to RR looks...

Thank you in advance for your reply.

[helotaxi]

You need VZ-083 (the parts tree for the mount, rear shock tower, upper links, guide and rear bulkhead brace; basically the plastic parts) and VZ-088 (the threaded tube that keeps the floating mount centered). I would suggest VZW-017 which is the rods and E-clips to mount the body mount to the upper control arm links. If you plan on running a touring body you will also need the taller body mounts that go on the floating mount (not sure of the part number). If you plan on running the Lola type body you will need the Wide Bumper set (VZ-082). Hope that answers all your questions.

[Matlock]

Hey, I just got my V-One R(Sponge version:p) and was wondering if there is any way you can use a normal battery pack(The one that comes with the radio)? Because I can't seem to fit it where the hump pack would normally go and I don't feel like dropping another $80+ for a charger and hump pack.
Also, do you guys have any tips on setups? It's a medium sized track? It's not very technical either.

Thanks guys,
Jared

[Nitromatt]

the body mounts for using touring body is part # vz098.:)

[VunoS]

Thank you all for part numbers...

Got one question tho, since I will be sticking with only touring bodies, not Lola type body, is there any advantage to convert to floating mount type (besides looks)? Body will still be mounted on body post via body clips so I would not take an advantage of RR mount, wouldn't I?

After finished mine (V1R), it kinda looks a lot like V1S with graphite upper deck. I wonder what makes V1R superior to V1S.

Matlock - I tried to fit regular battery holder to V1R but I had no luck with it. Try the e-bay.... got mine for $25.00(new) hump pack and charger combo.

[Matlock]

Thanks, I ordered a hump pack/charger combo last week for $35. I have never seen a package like that:)

And this is my take on the floating rear body mount with a TC body; As long as the body post are connected to the floating rear mount it should still transfer the rear downforce to the rear tires. But if the body posts are not connected to the rear mount, forget what I said above:p

[XracerX]

Does anyone know the part numbers for all the parts for the rear floating mount on the V ONE RR? im trying to convert my V one R to V one RR.. also the part number for the Wide Bumper.

Hey PCC do you have a engien for sale? this is Han btw.
Do you have any extra V one RR parts lying around? if so let me know ill take them off your hands...hehe

[Nitromatt]

XRacerX scroll up about 3 post to helotaxis it list all the parts, and if you are going to ever be using a tc body on it use the post with the part # i listed vz098. my parts will be here sat along with a racers choice lola body 200mm. I will let you know what screws you need that it does not come with. and I will post pics.

[XracerX]

alrite thanks matt.
im gonna go to my hobby shop to order these parts.

By the way where are you ordering these parts from and how much did it cost you all together?

Im planning to run lola but i will probably switch to TC if i feel like running one

[Nitromatt]

I am getting them from http://www.Towerhobbies.com

the stock #s for them are
KYOC8068 Kyosho Wide Bumper Set RR..................6.99
KYOC2346 Kyosho Rear Body Mounts V-One RR......8.99
LXBXJ2 Kyosho Body Mount Shaft V-One RR...........8.99
LXBXG1 Kyosho Body Post V-One RR......................3.99
LXCSN8 Racer's Choice Lola VDS Body 200mm.......15.59
I put the body I got on there in case you wanted to order one along with the parts, I do not know if it will exactly fit, but I will post how it comes out with pics sat. night after racing. along with how well it handles. have fun

[Nitromatt]

here is the bumper

[Nitromatt]

rear pod I probally messed up so corrections are appreciated before race day.

[Nitromatt]

body, man is it hard to get in the groove at the top

[Nitromatt]

just got in from races, will never run a touring body again! It is like night and day, driving the lola,and touring. Lola is so much more stable. I won today, beat out the serpent 705 like he was a piece of wood with wheels, excpet on the straights, novamega12vs.12cvr nova crushed me on the starights but I killed him in the turns. It was my first time really cutting out a lolabody so help from one of the coolest people at the track cut all the stuff out with a exacto knife,and reamer. He did a awsome job. If youre reading this thanks again. If you are going to upgrade anything on this car first thing I say to do is turn it into a rr. then worry about that carbon fiber smancy stuff the reflex and serpent 705 have, because obviously they dont help as much as this. If you track doesnt allow Lola body, poor you. wasnt able to work my brothers camcorder right and did it on the wrong thing so I cant upload it to my PC, will have footage next next sat. Next thing to come is rr centax, and my car will be officially rr status:) I will post pics tomorrow.

[KingWillie]

Hey, I've run into a problem I can't seem to solve for myself. My, 3D clutch on the V1RR is not completly disengaging at idle. When I first start the car up it is fine and after the first few laps it is fine. Then this problem begins. Any suggestions?
Helotaxi what is your set up on the Centax?

[Matlock]

Do you guys know of any good spring sets I could get for my V1R? I was thinking of getting the Trinity set for the Reflex(Since they are pretty much the same car). Do you guys have any thoughts on this? Or do you know of any others that work good? Thanks

[KingWillie]

The Trinity set is nice not only does it have several different rate springs, but it also has has half springs which you can mix and match for varying rates, ie two different rates on the same shock. Well I guess they only give you one rate, but it is supposed to mimic a progressive spring type. We use them on my son's Reflex. I use KYOSHO black, silver and gold.

[PCC]

KingWillie, on your Centax, do you have it set so that the clutch engages at high revs? This causes more friction on the clutch and can cause weird things to happen like you are reporting. It can also lead to melted clutches.

[KingWillie]

PCC
No not very high at all. I have had no issues with the other Centax and they are set up exactly the same. One is on a Sirio and this one is on an OS 0.12 TR. When the engine is stopped for a few minutes it is no problem, clutch housing spins freely. I'm stumped, it's a bear trying to pull in for gas with it like this.:mad:

[Matlock]

Just ordered some parts to start the upgrade to a V1RR! Plus a Yokomo GTP body! And some spare's(Arms, nuckles, pillow balls etc etc...) Can't wait for my stuff to come!!

[autotr8er]

Originally posted by KingWillie
Hey, I've run into a problem I can't seem to solve for myself. My, 3D clutch on the V1RR is not completly disengaging at idle. When I first start the car up it is fine and after the first few laps it is fine. Then this problem begins. Any suggestions?
Helotaxi what is your set up on the Centax?

Hey King, Tighten the clutch spring down a little more. I set it to the factory recommended location as well and experienced the same thing.

Hey, did you know that Patella Dragger moved here to Dallas?

[Matlock]

I'm having a problem with the front one-way diff. on my V1R. The right shaft keeps coming unglued. No matter what I use it comes off. The left one is fine, but the right one wont stay. What do you guys use to keep them on? Or am I missing something here:confused:

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by autotr8er
Hey King, Tighten the clutch spring down a little more. I set it to the factory recommended location as well and experienced the same thing.


I'll give a few more turns, but it seems tight already. Which spring are you using the stock spring? Thanks

[Matlock]

Originally posted by Matlock
I'm having a problem with the front one-way diff. on my V1R. The right shaft keeps coming unglued. No matter what I use it comes off. The left one is fine, but the right one wont stay. What do you guys use to keep them on? Or am I missing something here:confused:

Nevermind. I figuerd it out:)

[autotr8er]

Originally posted by KingWillie
I'll give a few more turns, but it seems tight already. Which spring are you using the stock spring? Thanks Yes, the stock spring is fine. I think you can use the spring from the MUGEN Clutch kit. There are two in there; stock and extra firm. Once you get into the higher HP motors, I feel that you will need it.

[NiMo]

Shock! Horror! Disaster! :eek:

I have just had a drive belt snap today.

After 26 months of racing I have just snapped my first drive belt on my V one R, and it just happened to be the hardest one to change, the front one, not the best way to start my Summer National Series, and it was my home track.

Guess I'll have to buy a new one now

Sob! Sob! Sob!

[KingWillie]

Yes that belt is a bitch to change. How's the weather?

[NiMo]

At the moment we have a heatwave, 19C an the moment, got the shorts out (youch! white pins), looking to 26C by Friday, that's 15C above normal for this time of year.
Track has so much grip, even running Pit 40's we were grip rolling, only cured by squeezing HPI blue's into the fronts.

[KingWillie]

Hey guys just got my Rossi RJ12 Roar Legal Black Pixi today. Anyone else get a new engine for the season?

[Matlock]

Well, I just got my V-One R about a month ago along with my Sirio. It'll be used for the racing season. Does that count?:D

[Nitromatt]

kingwillie whered you get the rossi. I need a new engine and dont no what to get. the sirio a mt12 or now thinking of the Pixie. also how does it run and hold its tune. And maybe you could let me know what pipe and header you are running if its not a problem. Thanks matt.:)

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Matlock
Well, I just got my V-One R about a month ago along with my Sirio. It'll be used for the racing season. Does that count?:D

My son runs a Sirio in his Reflex, we just tuned it to 240F and it really has an impressive top end. Of course it counts. I'm seeing a lot of Sirios at the track. Looks pretty popular.

[KingWillie]

Nitromatt: I got my Pixi at RC Model.com.HK (http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/) it was the cheapest place I could find and they take PayPal. $190.00 US Most prices in the states were 219.00 and shipping doesn't eat up the difference. I've had good luck there before. I'm using the Dynamite pipe for NovaRossi's it's a straight through pipe with spring couplers, see it at Horizon Hobby on the net. Can't really tell you how it runs yet still breaking it in, but it sounds great! It just looks fast too with that different shape to the cooling head, which is really large.

[Matlock]

KingWillie- Nice choice. I saw one running today (In a NTC3 I believe, didn't get a real good look). The thing rips. It had surprisingly good low-end. Plus, it looks just plain meen:D

Question for anyone that may know; What is the difference between these two braces:

http://secure400.automatedshops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~wfp16353/st_prod.html?p_prodid=1563&p_catid=47&sid=2dODWE0lYE@b7DY-12103262434.94

http://secure400.automatedshops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~wfp16353/st_prod.html?p_prodid=1526&p_catid=47&sid=2dODWE0lYE@b7DY-21103440066.e8

[Saboteur]

After hearing about some Bruckner hobbies store starting some races, I've thought about the VoneR GRP version at Tower Hobbies (kit with foams, swaybars and oneway diff). It's really affordable. Do I really need that kyosho manifold to work with SE engines or can a standard one work as well? :confused: Probably use my old bmw body from the NEO onto it. Too bad the front air hole is more off to the side instead of centered..ah well. Also the stock clutch works with ONLY SG cranks, correct? BTW great pics Nitromatt.

[VunoS]

Saboteur...
I just recently built my new V one R GRP version so here goes my answer to your question.

Regarding engine and manifold issue.... I'm not familiar with SE engine but if that is rear exhaust engine, then you should have no problem. except you won't be able to install side bracer... for side exhaust engine, you will need the manifold that points upward rather than points downward (regular ones) due to interering with side pulley. it seems that Team Associate's manifold will do the trick (cheaper too).

For stock clutch.... you can use both, SG or thread shaft engine since you will get both type of clutch nuts with package.

Hope this help.

[KingWillie]

Saboteur: KYOSHO makes a header for use with SE engines, we used it with an OS CVR, works well with the V1R.

[Saboteur]

Great! Thnx for the info guys. Ill do a search for the price of the manifolds. Before ordering from tower, I'll check that bruckner hobbies in white plains price for the v-1-r, manifolds and the engines. Thnx again.

[Saboteur]

I found the AE manifold and trying to find a new pipe. As much as I'd like the THS tuned pipe for the 1/10th onroad
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX2&P=7 (chrome..YEAH!!! :D ), I really wont be going for a RE engine now. Gonna give the fantom or picco rcspeed (after I slap the m16 slide carb on it) or just stick with a CVR. Think its worth the xtra wait for a nice RE engine and just go for the THS pipe? :confused: Just trying to make a decent package without spending tons of cash, which I dont really have right now..LOL.

[KingWillie]

I think the Sirio or the Fantom are the best buy for the money. Fantoms seem to be doing very well offroad and then there's always the new OFNA/PICCO a for real dyno tested 1.29 bhp. Buy the Fantom and let us know ow it goes, I'm interested.:D

[Saboteur]

Kool. Its tempting to go for the fantom after seeing it for $139.99..but then again, I dont think I'm ready for that kind of power..even for racing or bashing..LOL!. The bruckner in white plains should have the picco Xp .12 engines and others on sale so gonna check with them. Here's the list from tower so far..

Kyosho VoneR GRP version:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX2&P=7

AE tuned pipe:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMH0&P=0

AE manifold:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3422&P=7

Hows that lookin so far king? :cool: Still..that THS pipe sure is shiny... :D :p

[KingWillie]

Looks great! Just an FYI: did anyone mention that production of the V1R has stopped, not a problem there as there are still plenty of them for sale and KYOSHO support for it is guranteed at least for three years. Besides the V1RR will continue to be manufactured which is very close to the V1R as we know. KYOSHO is expanding their V1RR line to include several new versions including the powered one. I think the V1R GRP is a great choice, I loved mine. So easy to drive. You know one thing I found to be a great addition to my GRP were the 3 Racing universals up front or anyone elses. You can get them for a mere $18.95 US at RCHUB.com. Helped with on power cornering quite a bit.

[NiMo]

Found on the Japanese site

V-one RR Evolution!

Note the new front end!

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/events/hobyshow/2003shizuoka/k_31255.jpg

[Saboteur]

:eek: Now that says PURE competition! Check out this new kyosho a friend showed me..

[Saboteur]

BTW it does suck to hear that they are discontinuing the VoneR kits, just as I'm ready to get one. :( I have about $260 on me now (had to spend the rest of cash for something else) so shall I just get the kit, and that AE manifold before it dissappears or what?:confused:

[NiMo]

Now that says PURE competition! Check out this new kyosho a friend showed me..

That a picture of the new FW-05 R.
the FW range is normally the shaft driven SuperTen (220mm wide) range, although this pic does appear to have the smaller 'Scale' wheels on it.

As for you next post:
It is only the 'R' that is being discontinued, not the 'RR'.
You can always convert the RR back to the R as the new V-one S Mk2 still has the original R back end.

[NiMo]

V-one S Mk2

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/events/hobyshow/2003shizuoka/k_31121.jpg

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Saboteur
BTW it does suck to hear that they are discontinuing the VoneR kits, just as I'm ready to get one. :( I have about $260 on me now (had to spend the rest of cash for something else) so shall I just get the kit, and that AE manifold before it dissappears or what?:confused:

Saboteur: Don't feel that way, the V1R GRP is a great car, there will probably be another evolution out before you learn to maximize the GRP and you can always upgrade to the front one way and the Centax. I say grab the V1R GRP while they last.:D

[Saboteur]

Sry, I ment the std R kits, not the RR. BTW the GRP does come with a oneway diff I think. I'll definately go for it as well as the AE se manifold. :) Still have that THS pipe lingering in my head but I dont really need it anyway. A paris turbo pipe is prob all I need for now. :)

[Saboteur]

GRR, didnt let me edit the last post. Anyway wanted to ask you guys about this pipe from kyosho :

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LR8175

It looks pretty cool and great for the price. Also decided to stay with a OS .12cvr std shaft w/slide carb for now. Been away for the nitros for a while so the CVR is a good engine to build up the skills again. I believe it actually has a little more rpm than my m16 but not sure about HP. If I really wanted to take a risk and try the picco .12rc speed and use my m16 w/slide carb on it, that would probably hang with a fantom or other powerful SE engines. Heck, stay with OS's reliability.

[jay272]

Does anybody else know that tower hobbies has these things (V one R w/foam tires) for only $209?? Kinda weird. Anyways, I had a question before i odered mine. Can I use a standard pull start engine w/side exhaust with this car? Thanks.

[VunoS]

Originally posted by jay272
Does anybody else know that tower hobbies has these things (V one R w/foam tires) for only $209?? Kinda weird. Anyways, I had a question before i odered mine. Can I use a standard pull start engine w/side exhaust with this car? Thanks.

Ever since they were going to discontined the V one R, they been dropping prices. I have pick up my V one R GRP version for $219 at LHS about 2 months ago.

As far as pull start engine goes... it only accepts NON pull start engine due to the side pulley and belt. V one S's belt that connects to the front diff runs thru center while V one R's belts runs on left side (along with tune pipe).

hmmm... driver side is left, right? I always get that one unsure.

[VunoS]

hello kLepToKoKo

I got a question for you (or anybody). I just convert my V1R to V1RR look. But I can not install rear anti-roll bar ( which comes as stock with GRP version) due to the hitting the spur gear. I manage to modify the original back plate to get it fit but my question is that does the anti-roll bar different from V1R verse V1RR? Any reply will be greatly appreciated.

BTW, it now looks great and took kLepToKoKo's advise and decide to go with Lola body. Thanx.

Will post my pic... along with V1S in few days.

[NiMo]

V1RR uses different rear roll bars to the V1R

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Saboteur
Sry, I ment the std R kits, not the RR. BTW the GRP does come with a oneway diff I think. I'll definately go for it as well as the AE se manifold. :) Still have that THS pipe lingering in my head but I dont really need it anyway. A paris turbo pipe is prob all I need for now. :)

That's right it does have the front one-way, I forgot as I went back to the front diff for our track before I sold it.

[Saboteur]

lol. I guess it provided the better braking needed for the track? Been thinking what I could do is just order the R from tower and just go to bruckner for the engine, manifold w/tuned pipe and SB. I did see some RE manifolds very cheap there. Havent made a full decision on what I'd actually get anyway as the onroad/offroad conflict is still going on in my head..LOL :D

[KingWillie]

CRAP, disaster has struck I was off today so I took the new V1RR with the new Rossi R12 down to the local park as their parking area is stone free. I was going to finish breaking in the engine. I was daydreaming a bit and smacked a piece of concrete on the front right of the car. Took both upper and lower arm off, about half way, cracked the tank, broke the receiver box, hopefully receiver survived, broke on off switch, destroyed the new graphite radio plate and busted my JR throttle servo into about 20 pieces. I need about $90 bucks worth of parts. I used to tell me son to be careful in the same place, guess I can see why he drifted off over there. AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!! Nice day off, not! Pray for me. :eek:

[Saboteur]

OUCH :( Poor you...poor VoneRR..LOL :D

[Matlock]

Sorry to hear that. I have yet to break a part on my V1R(part RR). Though, I do have plenty of spares in case!

BTW: Races start this upcoming Saturday! Hope I do well:)

[VunoS]

Here is the photo I promised. :)

Kingwillie... sorry to hear that. I did broke my new R's gas tank while breaking the motor too. (it's a looooong story).
Anyway here it is...

[VunoS]

Top View....

In case if you are wondering....
Left one is V1R GRP version converted to V1RR look and right one is V1S with Graphite upper deck.

[Saboteur]

:eek: ! For some strange reason though the v1s looks wider..lol. Oh wait, its the wider tires..hehe :D

[VunoS]

Originally posted by Saboteur
:eek: ! For some strange reason though the v1s looks wider..lol. Oh wait, its the wider tires..hehe :D

Aye, you are right! V1S is installed with 30mm rear tire.... and bad camera angle.;)

[KingWillie]

My first actual damage on the V1RR also, cement sure is harder than our track walls. :mad:

[Ashler282]

how fast does a v-one s go, and can you change the final gear ratio of the car to make it go faster and what parts from other kits work for the v-one s, someone told me that serpent car parts work for the v-one s, and also would like to know the gear ratio of the 2 speed for the v-one s

thanks

[NiMo]

We've had a Kyosho Cup spec V-one S geared up for a big track which broke the 100Kph beam, and an R with a Rossi RS12 break 130Kph (would've gone faster but both the rear tyres (Take Off 27's) burst causing a huge barrel roll).

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by NiMo
We've had a Kyosho Cup spec V-one S geared up for a big track which broke the 100Kph beam, and an R with a Rossi RS12 break 130Kph (would've gone faster but both the rear tyres (Take Off 27's) burst causing a huge barrel roll).

Nimo is that the Outlaw version, the Rossi that is, I have the R12 and that is incredibly fast and responsive all over the powerband.

[NiMo]

Nimo is that the Outlaw version, the Rossi that is, I have the R12 and that is incredibly fast and responsive all over the powerband.

UK Rubber class rules only allows 3 port non turbo motors, Touring shells, and a dual chamber exhaust with outlet of 5.2mm max.

Scale Open class allows Foams / Turbo's / Multi ports and Lola type (exposed motors) shells but pipe still dual chamber / 5.2mm max.

So I guess that American rules would make for faster cars.

[kLepToKoKo]

i ditched the S and got myself an R :)

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL134/1094910/2060649/25020155.jpg
http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL134/1094910/2060649/25020245.jpg

one problem... i finished building two weeks ago but ive been paranoid about running it :eek:

[Saboteur]

Whats bad enough is not able to make up my mind as to what new rc I'd want to get next. Also waiting to see what will this bruckner lhs might race and how'd I get there. The last thing is this dudes an awesome picture of the car I wanted to get as well as the THS RE pipe for 1/10th scale onroad. :( x100. I'd really want to get the voner kit @tower, just that I may have to wait a while to get the engine and SB. Had the thought of easily gettin into elec racing with my TL-01 (added the neo arms, upperlinks, cvds and shocks to it) and made a pretty sweet elec setup. Decisions ...decisions. I do have a fresh qt and a 3/4s full qt(been there for a while) of megatechs fuel that I dont wanna spoil. Not sure what to do. Even if they dont do any racing having the onroad is fine. One of the concerns of not getting the nitro is the noise as some areas here is rather quiet, but a simple solution to that was go somewhere else( DUH :rolleyes: ).

[uaerc]

Hi guys

Just need some expert comments before i order this. I was browsing the RCMODEL.HK website and came across the FORD F 150 200mm body. I was wondering if i can get it on the V 1 RR that i have. I am just wanted to confirm if anyoen is using it coz this particular body has a lot of curves on it and i dont really know if it would fit or not ?

Where can i get good cheap spares / wheels/ bodies/ hop ups.

So anyone............ plz??!!

Regards
Aziz

[Randman]

I've been considering getting a V One RR, but am wondering what kind of durability the car has. What kind of aftermarket avalibility is there for the car, and are there any soft spots that might break on the car?

[Saboteur]

From listening to the ppl who own one, they are awesome and for sure your backed up by kyosho's reliability. To bad for me I wont be buying any new rc since I'm going to start saving for a real car. Well once I get it, then I can drive to school, to rc tracks, etc. :cool:

[Randman]

BTW, what's the difference between the V One R, and V One RR?

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Randman
BTW, what's the difference between the V One R, and V One RR?

V1RR has a front one-way, Centax style clutch, Floating rear body mount, front blade type anti sway mechansim and rear stabilizer bar.
The V1R is still available here and there, however it is no longer in production at KYOSHO. There are now several variants to the V1RR available also, GTP version(Lola Type Bodies), powered version(SIRIO Powered), plain ol' V1RR and soon to be V1RR "evolution".

There are many aftermarket parts available for this car, however it hardly needs them. It is quite rugged, but like any other RC car if you hit it right it will break. RCMODELHK has many parts as well as hop-ups for the car and here in the states RCHUB.com carries all of the 3 Racing Products for the V1R series kits.:cool:

[Jimmy33]

whats the biggest engine you can fit in the V One R?

or what is teh best and most powerful engine you can fit?

[Saboteur]

Basically any .12 engine non p/s, RE or SE will fit. An SG crank or standard will fit the included clutch system. For the RR, the centax only works with an SG crank.

[Jimmy33]

ok - may be a stupid question is there anything which can be up graded on the V one R? :D

[NiMo]

There are plenty of upgrades you can get for the V one R, I have tried a few but found that the standard kit version bar 2 changes worked best.
The 2 changes made (Ruber Tyre set up) are :
Front : RR anti roll bar - has less springy effect than the R version.
Rear : Kawahara Negative Diff - greatly reduces power on spin outs (no rear roll bar).

Up until now I've only run Saloon shells (sedan in your language) but plan to run on foams with a VDS Lola at a club meeting on June 1st, not sure about using the Turbo engine yet.

[Sparx]

what exactly does the kawahara negative diff do? i'm thinking about gettin' one and need to know what it's doin'

[Matlock]

I found some pictures of the new RR Evo. on the rctech.net forums:

RR Evo. conversion kit:

http://homepage3.nifty.com/joybox/shs03069.jpg

RR Evo.:

http://homepage3.nifty.com/joybox/shs03068.jpg

New front setup:

http://homepage3.nifty.com/joybox/shs03075.jpg

Another of the new front end:

http://homepage3.nifty.com/joybox/shs03074.jpg

And another of the RR Evo.:

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/events/hobyshow/2003shizuoka/k_31255.jpg


NOTE: All pictures were provided by Manticore and VoneRkid of the rctech.net forums.

[Matlock]

Sparx- The Kawahara Neg. diff. works like a normal gear diff. off power but will lock up when on power(Giving you the same effect as a solid rear diff. on power). It has a clutch which will engage to lock the diff. This will give you good steering off power yet great pull out of a corner.

Hope you understood that:)

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Jimmy33
ok - may be a stupid question is there anything which can be up graded on the V one R? :D

I like universals in the front and a steel rollbar. Kawahara is a great additon. As is the Rossy R12 Engine!

[Ashler282]

Just got new hop ups for my Vone s, universal power shaft drives for both the front and rear, and now im anxiously waiting for my 2 speed tranny, carbon upper radio tray. And now im trying to figure out what engine to grab next, I narrow my choices down to the MT12 or the OS cvr. and if anyone have any input on engines out there besides the 2 mention let me know. I guess after I get all my neccesary hop ups ill look at getting new shocks. The only problem witht he kit is that all parts have to be ordered in and dont know how long kyosho will carry parts or if there are any other after market parts available from other kits that are compatible for the V-one s

[KingWillie]

I have had both engines, I prefered the OS cvr for tighter tracks and the MT-12 for those big fast tracks. You may want to look at the SIRIO 0.12 I believe it is less expensive than the MT-12 and quite a bit quicker than the cvr as is the OS TR 0.12 and TR (P).:eek:

[uaerc]

Hi Kingwillie.

I just ordered the Flarreside body from HPI for the V one RR, and also bought some Power Tyres 32 in the rear and 30 in front. 30mm in the rear and 26mm in the front. These are the initial hop ups on my car.

Also Saw some hop up parts from 3 Racing namely

1. Fast Gear Ratio
2. Rear Upper Arm
3. Pulleys.
4. Carbon Tray. etc.

These are available on www.rcmart.com, just wanted to check since these parts are half the price of Kawahara, are the any good.? Could you please assist me in getting these parts. Which particular make are value for the money and time invested in getting them here.

Regards
Aziz:confused:

[Jimmy33]

As I will be racing (seriously) and ragging (not so seriously) my car would you recomend the R or the S

[Matlock]

uaerc- I haven't really used any of their parts, so I can't really help you there, but I have used Integy parts. They are cheap and great quality. They make some really nice parts. Integy (http://integy.com/)

Jimmy33- Weather you are going to just race or bash, I'd get the V-One R without a doubt. Just a better overall design.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by uaerc
Hi Kingwillie.

I just ordered the Flarreside body from HPI for the V one RR, and also bought some Power Tyres 32 in the rear and 30 in front. 30mm in the rear and 26mm in the front. These are the initial hop ups on my car.

Also Saw some hop up parts from 3 Racing namely

1. Fast Gear Ratio
2. Rear Upper Arm
3. Pulleys.
4. Carbon Tray. etc.

These are available on www.rcmart.com, just wanted to check since these parts are half the price of Kawahara, are the any good.? Could you please assist me in getting these parts. Which particular make are value for the money and time invested in getting them here.

Regards
Aziz:confused:

The 3 Racing parts are very nice quality and have held up well for me. I've used Kawahara, K-Factory, Toms, 3 Racing and Powerline Ti screw set. The only pieces I didn't like were the K-factory side supports(looked kind of cheesy being cast not machined) and the 3 Racing front graphite, multi-position shock mount (I haven't figured out how to get it on correctly yet or if will go on so the shocks line up right). Other than that, I've been pounding these parts for over a year with no problems.:cool:

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Jimmy33
As I will be racing (seriously) and ragging (not so seriously) my car would you recomend the R or the S

The S competes in the KYOSHO World Cup series and is aimed more at the beginner, new to RC, but many cup racers enjoy it quite a bit. The R is gone, now you should look for the RR and/or the RR "evolution" which should be due out before too long.:cool:

[uaerc]

Kingwillie.....

Howz the gear ration part. Is it any good. does it really work as they say. How good is it gonna do to me or vice versa.

What other parts can i order to upgrade the vonerr.

Any suggestions..

regards
Aziz

[NiMo]

What other parts can i order to upgrade the vonerr.

I can't understand why you keep asking this.

Unlike other cars I could mention, the Kyosho V-one R/RR series doesn't need much (if any) upgrades.
If you were talking V-one S then yes a few upgrades will turn the car in to front runner, but V-One R/RR ?

I have been running my V-One R since Feb 2001, I have tried a few upgrades, including the RR upgrades, and have found myself going back almost to original spec.

Here is the current set up:

TRP (Top Racing Products, known in America as 3 racing)

TRP chassis
TRP universals - front 0mm offset - Rear 2mm offset
Kyosho RR front anti roll bar set
2 bevel front diff
Kawahara Negative rear diff
TRP left side brace
TRP Right side brace
5x AAA battery pack
Steering Servo lowered by 2mm
Kyosho R Silver front springs up front/80Wt oil/2 hole pistons (1mm holes)
Kyosho R Gold front springs on rear/35Wt oil/2 hole pistons (1mm holes)
Every thing else is original V-one R set up.

Car runs on Rubber tyres (same compound and insert all round)with Protoform Vectra shell and Rossi RS12 (S1) on 16% tornado fuel.
Ride height 5mm front / 7mm rear.

Parts to avoid:
anything Kfactory - UK climate too cold for the alloy used in Kfactory products - parts simply shatter.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by uaerc
Kingwillie.....

Howz the gear ration part. Is it any good. does it really work as they say. How good is it gonna do to me or vice versa.

What other parts can i order to upgrade the vonerr.

Any suggestions..

regards
Aziz

The RR comes set up for front wheel overdrive. To use this correctly you would need to true your tires to the specs in the instructions. To avoid this you can simply install a 27tooth front drive pulley. I have never tried using the overdrive set-up, but the guys over on rctech.net all use it and seem to like it. Most of them are from Australia and are competing with Mugen's MTX-3. The Austrailian National Champ drives a V1RR, although he could probably win with most any top car.

As far as upgrades go the universals for the front end, aluminium pulleys and the Kawahara Neg Diff are the only things I'd look at if I wanted the most bang for my money. Spend the rest of your cash on a digital, high torque servo and a good fast throtle servo. You really don't need any other pieces. Although I'm sure incrementally the hop-ups boost performance especially when you added them all together, but how much will it assist you is the question.
By the way I just read over on RCTech.net the V 1 RR "Evolution" will be available by JULY 2003. Don't know how accurate that info is, but it comes from the Australian National Champ a KYOSHO factory driver. :)

[Jimmy33]

why the 5x AAA battery pack

[NiMo]

5x AAA battery pack

1, required to power servo's.
2, fits perfect in to kit supplied battery holder.
3, overal size smaller than recommended 5 cell hump pack.
4, lighter than 5 cell hump pack.
5, can sit lower in car (7mm spacer fitted between radio plate and holder).
6, can last a 40 minute main final (just need a cure for the hand cramp).
and finally
7, my local UK dealer (Demon Power Products) can supply me with them cheaper than hump packs.

[Jimmy33]

is it better than the 4 aa cells

[NiMo]

4 AA cells ?

I assume you mean the plastic battery holder that comes with the transmitter in which you place 4 Duracell type batteries in to the spring holders.

If so then that kind of battery pack is only really used in basic or RTR kits. For competition you used a 5 cell rechargable pack.

Why 5 cells?

well non rechargable batteries are of 1.5 volts, x4 = 6 volts.
rechargable cells are of 1.2 volts, x5 = 6 volts.

Non rechargable cells can run out at any time as you have no control over how much charge they have.
Rechargable cells can be re-charged upteen times, and can be re-peaked at any time.

[Jimmy33]

can you use the 4 battery pack because i don't have a 5 at the momement as I have always used 4 standard batteries for my 1/8th cars?

[NiMo]

In the S yes, but in the R or RR it's not possible.

[Jimmy33]

right :rolleyes: better put a pack on order then :D

[Jimmy33]

I have canceled the RR as 500 was too much to pay for a 1/10 scale car - I have however got an S insted which also means I can do some serious upgrading which is what I like best! :D

[NiMo]

Yo Jimmy

As you're going for the S, how about considering the Kyosho Cup.
We only had 15 entries at Southend and can do with some more.
Upgrades are limited to Kyosho parts and you have to use the kit supplied pull start motor.
Next round is on the 8th June at Tibshelf (a big fast track).

[Jimmy33]

as soon as exams are over and i have passed my driving test (and conned my dad into letting my use the car!) i really do want to take part!

[Jimmy33]

as soon as exams are over and i have passed my driving test (and conned my dad into letting my use the car!) i really do want to take part! Is there a site where all the rules are?

[NiMo]

Is there a site where all the rules are?

Not the best of sites.

ripmax.com/kyosho/KWC.html

[Jimmy33]

cool thanks - what are rules for bodies - i mean can any of the bodies from kyosho be used.... as I cannot find the 'approved options parts list' :(

[NiMo]

Bodies and tyres must be Kyosho.

Get the BTCC Astra kit if you can, the shell is lighter and it has good front/rear balance/downforce.

[Jimmy33]

so can you use any kyosho body?

does this give me what options I can fit

http://www.kyosho.com/parts/kwcparts.html

[NiMo]

You can use any of the following but I do recommend the Astra (39241).

39171 - AMG Mercedes CLK 2000
39172 - Honda NSX
39173 - Corvette C5-R
39174 - McLaren BMW F1
39179 - Nissan Skyline
39180 - Ford Focus
39182 - Subaru Impreza
39241 - Vauxhall Astra BTCC
39242 - Mugen NSX 2002
39247 - Porsche 911 GT3RS
39834 - Calsonic Skyline GTR 1998
39953 - Calsonic Skyline R34

I have ordered a Mugen NSX (39242) to try out at Tibshelf.

[Jimmy33]

I know that it is a stupid question but will I need to drag my mate out to act as my pit man?

[Sparx]

Have anyone tried K Factorys Carbon upper plate and Low CG-Tank? is it lighter and does it lower the CG?

[Jimmy33]

what servos should I use for my S will a standard servo do or would the same servos that I use on my 1/8th Landmax be better if slightly over kill?

[Sparx]

Fast servos are almost always better than slower.. they give a better feel.

[NiMo]

what servos should I use for my S will a standard servo do

Not every one can drive with a fast steering servo so I should start with a standard one to save money.
As for the throttle/brake servo, get a fast one, then when you go for your brakes, you get brakes, not a delay then brakes after you've missed the corner.

[Jimmy33]

So it is speed that I should be looking at not torque or do that come together :confused:

Well been racing 1/10 electric for years and 1/8th nitro but only 'playing' with 1/10 nitro and I have only done small compertitions with 1/10 nitro so this is my first big 1/10 nitro compertition! :cool:

[NiMo]

I use a KO 2004 which has speed and torque for the throttle/brake and a KO 2001 for steering which is a fraction faster but a little less torque.

[Jimmy33]

Cool thanks

taking delivery on tuesday hopefully
it will have a ford escort body on which I decide which body to use for the KWC

[KingWillie]

Don't use the Focus your cg will go up like you won't believe, my son tried it on his MKII Spider when he raced the Cup. My two cents......couldn't help it.

[Ashler282]

On the Vone S, ive notice that carbon fiber radio tray that the place for the servos are different than the orrigianl tray that came with the kit and the tank is more in the center, how would this effect the overall performance, and has anyone check out the special chassis for the Vone s, what is the difference between the original chassis

[Ashler282]

Originally posted by evild
Hey everyone!

Check out http://www.evild.com/vones/ for my weblog as I put together a Kyosho V-One S. I'll be entering this car in a Regional Kyosho World Cup competition.

Feel free to e-mail me any suggestions or helpful hints you may have.

Thanks!

Dennis

What will the FGR be for the 2speed transmission, and on the original the spur gear is 46 and on the 2 speed is 43 and 40

[NiMo]

On the Vone S, ive notice that carbon fiber radio tray that the place for the servos are different than the orrigianl tray that came with the kit and the tank is more in the center, how would this effect the overall performance, and has anyone check out the special chassis for the Vone s, what is the difference between the original chassis

Car actually handle better with the Carbon top deck layout (hence a similar design for the new V-one S2), fuel tank is the V-one R version which breathes far better than the original tank.

I now have the chassis fitted but it made no difference to the car with the kit GS15R, maybe the standard chassis defects will show when running a proper .12 motor.

[Sparx]

Originally posted by Sparx
Have anyone tried K Factorys Carbon upper plate and Low CG-Tank? is it lighter and does it lower the CG?
I'm asking again.. :)

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi

I have got myself a V-ONE-RR, very pleased ! but needed an engine. Ended up with a Picco XP12 after a little research, problem is the crank only seems to be 6mm Dia, my collet is for a 7mm dia crank ??? Are Picco engines different? or is my collet wrong? Has anyone else fitted a Picco XP12 (or similar 6mm dia crank) into their V-ONE-R, RR ?

Many thanks !

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Sparx
I'm asking again.. :)

Well, not really, but my son runs the Reflex and those parts are standard on it. The lower cg of the fuel tank is an advantage, but there is no sump area in that gas tank and pick-up can be an issue as fuel gets low and vibration foams the gas. Although we have not experienced this, it is the basic problem. Might mean something, might not. Other than that and the price it should be a good mod.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
Hi

I have got myself a V-ONE-RR, very pleased ! but needed an engine. Ended up with a Picco XP12 after a little research, problem is the crank only seems to be 6mm Dia, my collet is for a 7mm dia crank ??? Are Picco engines different? or is my collet wrong? Has anyone else fitted a Picco XP12 (or similar 6mm dia crank) into their V-ONE-R, RR ?

Many thanks !

I have not fitted this engine to a V1-RR, however there should have been a collet supplied with this engine which will do the job. If not you can call Trinity Tech support and they will set you up. I've had good luck with them the two times I dealt with them.
Oops their phone support is down for renovation, try this e-mail address; support@teamtrinity.com

[Sparx]

Originally posted by KingWillie
Well, not really, but my son runs the Reflex and those parts are standard on it. The lower cg of the fuel tank is an advantage, but there is no sump area in that gas tank and pick-up can be an issue as fuel gets low and vibration foams the gas. Although we have not experienced this, it is the basic problem. Might mean something, might not. Other than that and the price it should be a good mod.
ok. maybe i should order it the next time i'm ordering from HK.

Now i just want to come to a track and test new parts and bodies. But that will wait til 17 may.. havent run the anything in 1 month now.. :(

[Sparx]

My RR Japan Cup Edition with some options from HK. Many brands. Lightweight Axles, Titanium Pillow-balls, aluminium body plate brackets, Rear alu shocktower, alu upper sidemount support and stuff like that.
http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL126/1138141/2147857/25881337.jpg

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL126/1138141/2147857/25881322.jpg
Pic of the refueling strapmounting

[Saboteur]

Awesome ride. The front springs seem similiar to the ones on my NEO TNT! :D What brand of pipe is that?

[Saboteur]

BTW those foams seem awefully close to the rear upper links cup.
:eek:

[Ashler282]

Im looking at this part on tower hobbies and want to know the purpose and what is this use for

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCYB5&P=Z

thanks

[KingWillie]

You can use this and the front pulley from your kit to build a front one-way for the S.

[Sparx]

Originally posted by Saboteur
BTW those foams seem awefully close to the rear upper links cup.
:eek:
Yeah. it' tight but it's a 0.5 mm clearance.. actually original it scrubbed the uprihgt. but the dremel did the work :)

The pipe is a NovaRossi. Don't know what name of it. the only thing i know is that it is EFRA-Legal for racing in 1:10IC 235mm
once in a time it was mirrorshining :p

The frontdampers is Serpent externally adjustable ( i love 'em ). i also now has them in back.

[uaerc]

Hi Ashler

I feel if you paying that kind of money for the differential, you can get the kawahara for a just a few bucks more the whole set. If i am not wrong. I am looking at the same option to upgrade on my V one RR at the moment.

Kingwillie

Any suggestions which is the best neg. diff. available for the hop up. what the PROS use ? ? any one knows about that .....if yes please let us know. I think this one is a essential on my car. !!

where to get it.

Sparx

Can you post a pic of the body you using on this beauty and what purppose does that big strap serve ? i am a bit confused.!!!

regards
Aziz

[Sparx]

Originally posted by uaerc

Sparx

Can you post a pic of the body you using on this beauty and what purppose does that big strap serve ? i am a bit confused.!!!

regards
Aziz
When you pull the strap the tank opens
Hope you understand now :)
http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL126/1138141/2147863/25962849.jpg

Pic of my darling
http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL126/1138141/2147863/25881590.jpg

:)

[Saboteur]

Nice work on the body man. :)

[uaerc]

Hi Sparx

here is my v one rr.

I didnt make a hole at the rear window..... just the front and the side.......thats why i didnt get the picture earlier !

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by uaerc


Kingwillie

Any suggestions which is the best neg. diff. available for the hop up. what the PROS use ? ? any one knows about that .....if yes please let us know. I think this one is a essential on my car. !!
where to get it.



The KYOSHO factory drivers do not use the negative diff. They tend to stay to all factory parts, mnay of which I assume are not available to the public.
There is only one negative diff to my knowledge and that is produced by Kawahara of Japan. You can usually find one at RC Model.com.hk (http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/) they accept paypal and I have had many positive transactions with them. I believe Team Magic sells them also. I'm sure there are many sites which do sell it, check out the Japanese Hobby Shops, there are also spare parts available for the Negative Diff. :cool:

[mckrooz]

We should receive it by friday. Do you guys have any building tips that we should look out for? We ordered some differential gaskets because we figure we'll be playing with different types of fluids. Do you recommend grease or silicone fluid for the diffs? We'll probably be dropping in an OS TR. We'd like to gear for the highest top speed. Any suggestions of which ratio to use? Would Reflex spurs work? He'll be racing me with my NTC3. Also, does someone make universals for this. We'd like to ditch the dogbones.

[Sparx]

Cool body UAERC!

I have ordered a Kawahara Neg. diff from RCModel.hk and can't wait for the stuff to get here :)

What tires do you guys run on? i've ordered JACO Nitro Shoes in all compounds. The tires are 4 bucks cheaper to buy from RCModel than in Sweden :eek:

[Sparx]

Originally posted by mckrooz
We should receive it by friday. Do you guys have any building tips that we should look out for? We ordered some differential gaskets because we figure we'll be playing with different types of fluids. Do you recommend grease or silicone fluid for the diffs? We'll probably be dropping in an OS TR. We'd like to gear for the highest top speed. Any suggestions of which ratio to use? Would Reflex spurs work? He'll be racing me with my NTC3. Also, does someone make universals for this. We'd like to ditch the dogbones.
One thing i noticed on my RR was that in the bearing-hole in the left rear bulkhead there was a tiny bit of plastic left from molding. it prevented the bearing to rotate freely.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by mckrooz
We should receive it by friday. Do you guys have any building tips that we should look out for? We ordered some differential gaskets because we figure we'll be playing with different types of fluids. Do you recommend grease or silicone fluid for the diffs? We'll probably be dropping in an OS TR. We'd like to gear for the highest top speed. Any suggestions of which ratio to use? Would Reflex spurs work? He'll be racing me with my NTC3. Also, does someone make universals for this. We'd like to ditch the dogbones.

Use silicone fluids 35,000 to 20,000 up front and 5,000 to 15,000 in the rear. KYOSHO, OFNA and many others sell the fluids. The Reflex tranny parts do not interchange with the V1R series. Check out Integy.com or RCHUB.com for the uni's. Personally, I use the 3 Racing products stuff, they are available at RCHUB.com for $18.95 a pair. You can also order the rear with a +1 degree offset to match the stock V1RR wheelbase. If you want uni's on the rear that is. One other piece you may want are the front and rear aluminum hex hubs. They are very nice.:cool:

[Sparx]

I have One-Way up front and 50.000 silicone fluid in the rear diff. Works just fine. almost like driving a 1:8 Track car :D

[Ashler282]

Does anyone now the FGR of the two speed for the V one s

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by KingWillie
Use silicone fluids 35,000 to 20,000 up front and 5,000 to 15,000 in the rear. KYOSHO, OFNA and many others sell the fluids. The Reflex tranny parts do not interchange with the V1R series. Check out Integy.com or RCHUB.com for the uni's. Personally, I use the 3 Racing products stuff, they are available at RCHUB.com for $18.95 a pair. You can also order the rear with a +1 degree offset to match the stock V1RR wheelbase. If you want uni's on the rear that is. One other piece you may want are the front and rear aluminum hex hubs. They are very nice.:cool:

Cool thanks. Do you reccomend sealing the diffs with some sort of sealant or is the gasket good enough? I don't want any leaking fluids. We are going to build it right the first time.

[mckrooz]

Is this the right header for it?

[Sparx]

sry.. doublepost

[NiMo]

How3 cold does it get where you race?

Here in the UK we still race when it gets below freezing point (as this picture of me (in winter gear) from our web site shows)

http://www.amcc.org.uk/nigel2.jpg