Mugen MTX-2 Nitro Touring Forum

[Needler56]

does pivot ball suspension handle better than c-hub type suspension? i do know that pivot ball suspension is much easier to adjust than c-hub.

[Im2lazy]

Originally posted by Vmax911
I agree with your views on hopups. But there have been some good kawahara parts on e-bay and I couldn't help myself. Plus, for the winters here, the car has to look good on the shelf. :)

I have a question for you. I tried to put some wide foams on the rear (32mm I think), and they wouldn't even come close to fitting. Is there an adapter or something out there to solve this problem? There is no adapter, but you need to shave off the upper part of the rear hubs for 30mm or wider rims (ie all rear foam tires). You need to trim the hubs all the way to the upper outside camber link hole, but I only use the inside one anyway. Kawahara makes a conversion with a different hex that is longer so that you don't need to modify the rear hub, but that's money you don't need to spend since it comes with a new offset hex, shorter lower rear arms, longer axles and shorter dogbones.


And Needler, pivotball suspensions are actually much harder to properly adjust. You need a setup system such as the one from Hudy or Integy, though Fioroni, Trinity and maybe even others now make one suitable. It is just that pivot ball suspensions as we've come to know them allow you to easily adjust width, toe and caster with ease- and obviously camber is a synche. But you need to have the same width on both sides of the car, and the adjustments must be very precise to see any benefit from the adjustable suspension.

And for your information, there are other forms of pivot ball suspensions other than what you are thinking of... what has now become the standard for all nitro on-road racing, but for instance the Nitro 4-tec has a pivotball suspension, but has more in common in terms of adjustability to a 'c-hub' type of suspension. Same with Shumacher's onroad cars, though they will shortly be going to 'c-hubs' instead.

[Needler56]

my MT12 engine is hard to turn on the first start. i can't even turn it with my finger. but when i loosen the glow plug to get it going, it'll start and every other start after that, for the day, it'll start on command. whats going on?

[Ramolap]

Does anyone know where I can get an online instrucrion manual for this car?

[Needler56]

is it possible to install an hpi rotostart backplate onto the mt12 engine?

[SLO NIZ]

Hey ya guys/gals, Im all new to this nitro rc craze but i have just recently bought a mtx 2 (non-prospec) so yes, i do get the pulley munching belt flying off problem :mad: . Excuse my ignorance but i didnt get the previous hints on how to fix this prob could maybe someone share there precious knowledge wit me again?

Cheers

[tekrsq]

There was really only a couple of solutions to this problem....a front belt tensioner, or a shorter belt.

Someone (I believe Penguin RC) made a CF top plate with a built in belt tensioner. There were several "upgraded" versions of the top plate, but if I remember right, the last version worked really well. I fashioned a belt tensioner to use on my Powerline CF upper deck that worked pretty well.

There was also a belt available that was about 1mm shorter than the stock belt that worked really well without a tensioner, but I don't remember who made it, and highly doubt they're still available.

[Needler56]

what's the most turns in (from closed) for the hsn and lsn for the MT12?

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by Needler56
what's the most turns in (from closed) for the hsn and lsn for the MT12?

You mean for break in or in general?

[Needler56]

general

[tekrsq]

There is no absolutely correct answer for this. Remember EVERYTHING is relative when tuning an engine, and things like humidity, ambient air temp, elevation, fuel content, plug type, etc play a part in the correct settings. Hell, even a dirty airfilter will make the engine impossible to tune. Having said that, most guys I know throughout the country have settings anywhere from 2 1/2- 4 1/2 out on the high end, & 2- 3 1/2 out on the low end. Even all my engines have different "sweet spots".

I wish I could give you a better answer, but I can't.

[Needler56]

that answer is perfect. just recently i've had time to tune the engine. the instructions says to turn the hsn 1/12 clockwise each tank. what exactly does that do and how many tanks do i do that for?

[tekrsq]

I take it you are still breaking in the engine?? Turning the HSN or the low end neddle in (clockwise) will lean out that setting. You can lean in the high speed needle 1/8 turn at a time without problems. The low speed needle is very sensitive to change and needs to be adjusted a "click" or 2 at a time (yes the LSN, has "notches" to keep the adjustment from changing on its own).

Generally, 6-8 tanks is all that's required for "break-in", then you can start adjusting the engine for racing. Just remember the engine will continue to "break-in" for about a gallon. So you need to make sure it does not overheat, and you will probably have to constantly make SLIGHT adjustments.

[SLO NIZ]

Hi tekrsq, thanx for the pulley advice but because i live in New Zealand :( its hard for me to get mugen parts let alone penguin or kawahara. Anyways straight to the point i've just finished breaking in me engine and have now set the HSN at 4 1/2 and LSN at 3 1/2 but its so bloody hard to start the darn thing cos its flooding a little and after its started it stalls all the time. Is this normal after break in or should i lean it out a bit more? cos i do the crappy spit test and it doesnt even evaporate the dam thing and those settings. Oh yeah i running the MT12 wit the turbo head and plug so any of your expert advice would be great (ass licking)

p.s this my second MT12 cos the first one **** itself cos i didnt know how to tune it :(

[SLO NIZ]

Sorry but does anyone know the lifespan of a MT12? mileage? Providing u have it tuned right if not even a little rich to be the safe side and run all the fuel outa the carb and run after run oil every single time of course.

[tekrsq]

Novarossi engines are fairly "forgiving" considering they are race bred machines. Sounds to me like you are still very rich. The engine has to be up to operating temp during the breakin process in order for it to properly seat itself. You aren't even close to operating temp. Tune the HSN to get the performance. If you do not have acess to a temp gauge, then continue using the spit test and make sure that the engine leaves a good smoke trail when punching the throttle. Once the HSN is close, start adjusting the LSN. Remember, each needle will affect the other's settings (to a point), so you may have to readjust the HSN slightly after the LSN is set. Also, as you lean in the LSN, the idle will go up, which means you'll have to adjust the idle speed screw.

Remember ABC engines like to run hotter than ABN engines. My Nova engines like to run 250-260 F. During racing, they run up to 275 F on 30% fuel.

If the engine is properly broke in properly, tuned properly, and cared for properly, you should get plenty of life. My stock MT12 engines got anywhere from 6-8 gallons of 30% fuel run through them before needing a new p/s. You should however, pull the engine down every 2-3 gallons and replace the rod. I pul mine down every gallon just to check the rod and replace the rod no more than every 3 gallons.

You should easily be able to run (race conditions) 5-6 minutes on a tank of fuel.

[Needler56]

tek, i know that when you port a sport engine that you will get a significant increase in performance. how much gain would the mt12 get? i got in contact with uriah murnan and they said they'll only port brand new engines. why is that?

[tekrsq]

Performance is based on the mods. I personally have never run a Murnan engine, but from what I've heard, thay are very good power plants. I have several stock engines left I keep as backups, but my primary engines are Richey modified MT12s. The reason builders only mod new engines is because new engines are the best to mod. Why mod a used up engine? If it doesn't perform well, then the builder looks like he doesn't know what's he's doing.

[SLO NIZ]

Yes i have blown my first MT12, gone thru 3 RB x12 pipes, countless uprights and sus parts so yes again i would agree this IS a expensive hobby but hey the pros at the track says im a quick learner and i've become a good agressive front one-way driver, thats why im gonna keep at. Anways i better get to point, i've somehow cross-threaded my glow plug head or buttton watever they call it of my new MT12? How the hell did i do that? dam! Getting a new one but its a turbo one and i've been told they dont like to idle very much but offer better performance. true?

[tekrsq]

Idle is a little trickier to set, but nothing drastic. If properly tuned, you will not have a problem.

[SLO NIZ]

Hm,... Me thinks the 2spd is playin up cos sometimes it doesnt change into it smoothly if u know wat im on about, most of the times it changes real smooth but other times a bit dragging???

Yeah cheers tekrsq one of the oldies at the track tuned it yesterday and it went pretty good, but wee bit diff today cos the darn thing keeps stalling but we cant lean it out anymore cos it'll be overheating, any other ideas why it would be like this or is it just the turbo glow plug?

one last thing theres dis guy selling a 2nd hand centax for 80 bucks NZD he said its in good conditon but im having 2nd thoughts. Do i realy nd to have one or do they just last longer?

oh yeah nearly forgot to say this but the 2nd hand centax has gears thats a bit diff thatn my stock ones, its got 17T and 20T while the ones on my prospec is 16T 19T is that cool to use the centax gears then? my spur gears are stock items so i thinik they're 47T 43T

Cheers guys

[tekrsq]

Hm,... Me thinks the 2spd is playin up cos sometimes it doesnt change into it smoothly if u know wat im on about, most of the times it changes real smooth but other times a bit dragging???

Check the spring & finger in the 2 spd assembly. Sometimes the spring doesn't set correctly, or if you overtighten it, you'll ruin it. Also, make sure the finger moves freely. It should not bind (with the spring out).

Yeah cheers tekrsq one of the oldies at the track tuned it yesterday and it went pretty good, but wee bit diff today cos the darn thing keeps stalling but we cant lean it out anymore cos it'll be overheating, any other ideas why it would be like this or is it just the turbo glow plug?

When is it stalling? Iwould try richening the HSN 1/8 -1/4 first. Then try richening the LSN a couple of clicks. Also check the idle speed screw, you might just be idleing to low.

one last thing theres dis guy selling a 2nd hand centax for 80 bucks NZD he said its in good conditon but im having 2nd thoughts. Do i realy nd to have one or do they just last longer?

I don't know the exchange rate, but you can buy a brand new centax for $80 US. You really do not need the centax, but it gives you considerably more tuning options for different track conditions. It also lasts much longer & gives better performance than the stock clutch. The downside is it needs more (not a lot more) maintenance than the stock clutch.

oh yeah nearly forgot to say this but the 2nd hand centax has gears thats a bit diff thatn my stock ones, its got 17T and 20T while the ones on my prospec is 16T 19T is that cool to use the centax gears then? my spur gears are stock items so i thinik they're 47T 43T

It depends on your track and engine. Since you are using a stock MT12, my initial advice would be to get a 16/19 combo for the centax (the stock MTX-2 gears will not fit the centax). UNLESS you run on a large track. The 17/20 will give you more top end, but at the cost of some acceleration. Who knows, that might work out better for you by helping tame the rear coming out of the turn. If you had a modified engine, I'd definetly say stick with the 17/20.

If you decide to change the centax gears, make sure you get gears for the MRX-2/MRX-3 centax. The MTX-3 centax uses different width gears and I do not think they'll work on the older centax. I guess I'll have to pull out the old car and check
:D

[345435]

Hey i have a Kawahara front one way I'm willing to trade for a stock one and maybe a spare set of tires.. If any of you guys are interested please email me at VNTEC@Hotmail.com. We could work out some thing because i bought my MTX hopped up but i dont really like how the one way performs in regular street bashing.. Aim - Street Ricer

[jjl]

here's a pic of my newly cleaned and rebuilt mtx-2.

[jjl]

one more try

[RCDaniel]

Yo wassup fellow MTX-2 owners!!! Its late in the night and I need to wash my car but when I get up tomorrow as early as I can (usually 12 PM) imma clean up my car and take pix for all you to see my ride and see what I got on it and all that. Til Tomorrow Late! Dont Let the MTX-2 Die!!!

[RCDaniel]

If anybody has pictures of their MTX-2's please post em up. I wanna see if anybody has as much passion and interest as I do in mine. I wanna see what sweet upgrades you guys have put on your rides. Im going to get some pix of mine up soon also.

[SLO NIZ]

Ok i ve this problem where if i lift the car up straight dead in the middle and drop it slowly the left wheel touches the ground first then the right, i've had this problem before but it sorta went away but now its back! arghhh! Its the front im talkin bout btw, i've taking out the sway bar and stuff but it just wont get even???

help?

Also i've got the common gear mesh problem wit the mtx2 and have heard its cos it use a cam type clutch where the more later kits i.e mtx3's uses a shoe type clutch. Is there anyway of ridding the mesh problem without getting a kawahara kit like maybe use the tranny from the mtx 3 or something? maybe? no?

Cheers

[tekrsq]

Disconnect the shocks & sway bar from the front end & make sure there is absolutely no drag on the suspension going up & down. Oh yeah, make sure all your up & down stops are backed out so they do not engaged the chassis.

Both front arms should hang down so they are equal distance from the table top. If not, use the "cam" on the left front suspension to adjust it equal with the right. Now that your suspension is "level", you can set the rest of the settings. A set of Hudy blocks and set-up gauges is really worth the money when trying to do this right. Also, make sure your shocks are equal length. If one is longer (even slightly longer), than the other, the handling will suffer.

As for gear mesh...never had the problem, and don't remember anyone having issues with it. If your chassis is bent, it can affect gear mesh. That might also be part of your problem setting your front end.:eek:

The MTX-3 tranny can work on the MTX-2. HOWEVER, some serious mods have to be done. It's considerably easier and cheaper just to buy an aftemarket clutch style tranny to fi the MTX-2. The MTX-2 tranny is fine though, for engines up to say 1.5bhp.


I've been trying to post some of my MTX-2 pics on ******.com, but for some reason, my account is screwd up. When it gets straight, I'll put some up.

[SLO NIZ]

Cheers for that tekrsq, i've adjusted the droop screw on the left and now its pretty much even :) but i ve noticed the suspension has gotten a wee bit lower and harder or is that normal and i just have to wind the shock collar down to give it some more ride height again?

good news i've done away with my old futaba 2peka and got a something just a little bit better, a JR propo xs3 and it seems to be doin the job cos before wit me old radio gear the car would get interference easy and has the tendency to snap left n right and into kerbs :mad: But tis all good now:D

Anyone hav any info bout the xs3 or has one? I love to know wat u think of it.

BTW i didnt get the xs3i so im not using the synthesizer non-xtal thingy, just the same trans wit a normal R200 receiver.

Cheers.

[tekrsq]

Glad it worked out for you. The suspension might be slightly lower now that everything is equal. By "harder", I assume you mean it's stiffer when compressing the front end?? It really shouldn't be any stiffer. Recheck everything to make sure nothing is binding. If nothing is binding, adjust the shock collars to raise ride height to where you want it.

The XS-3 comes fully synthesized--tx and rx. You can use a conventional FM rx with it, but the tx remains synthesized.

The XR-3 & XR-3i are conventional crystal FM radios.

Both are excellent radios. My step son uses the XR-3i, and my son uses the XS-3. Never had a problem with either.

[SLO NIZ]

Hm,... Now that i've got new radio gear and stuff how n earth am i gonna keep up with the mtx-3's and stuff? Does anyone know wat i could do to the mtx2 to keep it competitive? Like setup wise or should i go get a mtx3? I really like the 2 cos i've gotten use to it so any yhelp would be great.

[tekrsq]

The MTX-2 is still competitve on the club circuit. If you like the way your "2" handles, you'll LOVE the MTX-3.

[SLO NIZ]

Heya guys, just got the mtx-3 with the NSR12 engine. Now all i have to do is put it together :confused: any pitfalls or known prob areas should i watch out for while installing? Thanks tekrsq for the support i've been told the mtx3 is a wise choice,now just nd some hints on puting it together hehee

Cheers

[tekrsq]

Congrats on the 3!!!! You've got a VERY nasty car with that engine on it. Don't let it get away from you:D What pipe are you running? For MTX-3 tips, check out the MTX-3 thread on this site or the one on www.rctech.net . Both are FULL of info!!!

The car does not NEED any hop ups. It's awesome right out of the box. But there are a few things to get that will make the car a little better. Let me know if you have any problems wading through all the info.

[SLO NIZ]

Cheers tekrsq, pipe? um,.... to comes to think of it u've jst reminded cos i totally forgot bout the pipe, its $1200 nz dollar with car+engine no pipe so maybe a RD logics one i suppose?, its turbo so im assuming i should run a turbo pipe too? I've never actually put a car together b4, i've totally pulled my mtx2 apart and put it back no probs so im hoping to just take me time wth the 3 and prolly nag ya some more when i get into trouble :P
Thanks again.

btw i hope i remember to get the right pipe and failsafe 2moro, pipes pipes pipes which one? hm,....

[SLO NIZ]

I got this RD Logics turbo II pipe or watever today, the guy i deal with said its the lastest one out but really in my hands it wont be long before i'ld hav to get another one :p

Ended up using MTX-2 dog bones + o-rings cos the 3's are a wee bit shorter, i've put together the dif and front bulkend together now so yeah getting there very very slowly and ill make sure i post a pic of it for u guys to see if i did ok for my first car.

[tekrsq]

I run Richey modified Nova engines with RD Logics pipes on all my "frontline" cars. I've got the new RDL pipe on order also. Dennis tells me the new engine he's building me will SCREAM with it.

We probably should move any further MTX-3 discussion to the MTX-3 thread, but since we're here, I'll say this. The MTX-2 front bones definetly work better in the front of "the 3", but use the stock 3 bones for the rear. Also, if you tend to whack the boards a lot, you might just want to go ahead and invest in a set Mugen CVDs for the front. Spend the money up front to buy the Mugens instead of the other brands. Mugen's are CONSIDERABLY stronger than the others, and will save money in the long run.

The only other improvements I would do would be put an MRX-3 front belt on the front of the MTX-3, add the aluminum wheel hexes & aluminum right side brace. There are multiple aftermarket parts out there, but most are eye candy. There's also an "overdrive conversion kit" you can put together that will improve the handling (but it handles awesome out of the box). But you need to tue down the front tires and have an understanding of overdrive ratios and roll out. If you've never messed with those before don't worry about it. Just run the car with the stock setup and you will be more than happy.

[stoopideric]

is ti still possible to get parts for the MTX-2 ? I am about to get one used and just want to be sure that I can get parts if I need them

[tekrsq]

you can still get parts fine

[Needler56]

i took apart my mt12 engine to inspect it. the side of the wrist pin facing out to the exhaust is rusted up and the outlet face of the crankshaft has some minor scratches. the rest of the engine is immaculate. how did this happen?

last, i can't get the crankshaft out, it seems to be seated in very tight. what's the way i can get it out? thanks for reading

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by Needler56
i took apart my mt12 engine to inspect it. the side of the wrist pin facing out to the exhaust is rusted up and the outlet face of the crankshaft has some minor scratches. the rest of the engine is immaculate. how did this happen?

Any number of ways. The fuel might have some condensation in it, or just be poor quality to begin with. Your air filter may not have been totally dry when you put in back on the engine. etc, etc. That's whay it's best to always drain the fuel tank, run out the fuel left in the line & carb, then put after run oil in the engine when you are done with it.

As for the scratches, it more than likely come from tiny particles in the air. The quality of air filter is #1 here.

last, i can't get the crankshaft out, it seems to be seated in very tight. what's the way i can get it out? thanks for reading

You've probbaly got castor oil or rust around the bearing races keeping it from sliding out. Try some penetrating oil. If that doesn't work try heating it.

[aliikane]

Hey guys,

I don't have a nitro touring car yet, and I am looking at a used Mugen MTX-2 so I have lots of questions. The guy is selling it for 275 bucks with the Novarossi .12. It looks almost brand new and it probably has only been run a few times. From my understanding there are two versions of the MTX-2. The Sports and the Pro Spec version.

What is the difference between the Sports and the Pro Spec?

Is this kit worth 275.00? Can I still get parts even if it is an older car and not many people have it?

Is there anything bad about the MTX-2 that I have to watch out for? Anything I may need?

Thanks for any info.

[tekrsq]

The MTX-2 is still a very competitve car and parts can still be found. It's been so long since I ran an MTX-2, I can't remember all the quirks. The biggest thing I remember is that the front belt does not like ANY peebles on the surface. Mine would throw a front belt in a second. Since it's a used car, hopefully whatever is a "must have" is already on it.

If I remember right, the pro-spec kit came with a one-way, aluminum wheel hexes, centax clutch, different engine mounts, sway bars, and a couple of other goodies I can't remember.

To me $275 is a little high, but it would depend on what kind of hop ups is on the car, and what shape the engine is in.

[PaulH]

I have a GS Vision Pro, which is fairly parts-compatible with the MTX-2. I'm thinking of putting a solid rear axle in, but GS doesn't have one. If someone could measure length of their MTX-2 solid rear axle, from bearing to bearing, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[GolferJim]

Hi, I have a bunch of nitro car newbie questions here, so be patient and thanks in advance for any help/advice. I've raced a lot of electric over the years, but this is my first brush with nitro, and I love it!!

I have a mtx-2 prospec with an OS TR and mtx-2 (no engine yet) that I picked up used. The prospec has a centax clutch and the regular 2spd, with alot of options, and the regular car is pretty much plain jane. The prospec as a one-way on it. I picked up some option pieces (pretty much without a clue as to what I was getting) too, and I trying to come up with the best configuration for these cars.

I am thinking of setting up one for parking lot tracks/street racing and the other for larger prepared tracks (I'm in socal so that means Revelation Raceway, I guess)

I am putting my engine questions elsewhere...So here goes....

BRAKES
1) I'm having trouble with the brakes on the car with the one-way. don't know if this is suspension, diff or brake related. When getting on the brakes, the car just wants to swaps ends. the brake linkage was way too abrupt; I adjusted the linkage and that helped a bit. just wondering at what I should check next. I've never used a one-way on electrics so this is new to me.

TRANSMISSION
2) I also have a kawahara 2-spd. Is this a lot better than the std piece or is it about the same? Are parts available?

3) I was told the prospec has a centax clutch, how can I tell which one. Is the kawahara centax better? Are parts interchangeable?

4) I have a kawahara solid rear in the parts box. Is this only for big tracks or should I consider this for the parking lot tracks too.

SUSPENSION, SETUP AND TIRES
5) When setting up the mtx-2 for a given track, is it usually a question of getting traction or steering? Or, is the car fairly well-balanced? I also have no clue as to what the different spring rates are. Is there a chart or guide? I have the lt blue, some kawahara red and purples and then the plain springs.

Does anyone sell a complete set of springs that would be a good starting assortment?

5a) Any starting suggestions for oil/spring combos with foam and with rubber tires

6) Any general recommendations for tires? I am thinking of setting up one car(parking lot) for rubber and the prospec for foams. I know foams pretty well (used to race for TRC way back when..) but I'm somewhat at a loss for rubber tires on a nitro car. Any ideas?

7) Is the one-way only for larger tracks, or should I use it on tight tracks too? Also does the kawahara one-way use the same outdrives as the mugen part? Are these the same as the diff's outdrive parts?

GENERAL
8) The prospec has a futaba 9404 for steering, which seems ok. However, I ave a couple of KO 2113 fet servos (7.2v) sitting in the box. Are these good for gas steering or is the 7.2 v a problem. they're fast (.06) and have good torque, but I don't know how to wire one of these without ESC! (but I can probably figure taht out..) Would I have to put more voltage into the receiver pack?

9) What are the must-have spares that I should consider taking to the rack? What reliability areas should I be checking after each run?

10) Some posts on this thread seems to indicate the mtx-2 is not well-suited for bigger tracks. Is this due to gearing? Does the mtx-3 overcome this?

I know this is a whole lot, but I want to be as prepared as possible when I get to the track.

Thanks for any help!

-Jim

[PaulH]

Jim,

I will try to answer as many of your questions as I can.

One-way front axles are an interesting device. They get traction on power, but coast off power. The idea is that most skids are caused when the brakes are applied during steering. The one-way eliminates the problem. The "gotcha" here is that when you apply the brakes, the back axle gets all of the braking action. If you have ever thrown a real car into a skid by pulling the emergency brake, then you know what's happening. The only thing you can do is adjust your brake linkage so that the brake is not applied as hard. If you cannot adjust the brake to be any softer, use the EPA function on your transmitter.

The Kawahara transmission is definitely an upgrade over the Mugen stock transmission. Mugen used a finger-style shifting mechanism on the MTX-2. They work, but they do not shift smoothly. When the RPMs get high enough, it snaps the car into second gear, bogging the engine down. The Kawahara unit replaces the stock until with a two-shoe style transmission. This is basically the same as all modern touring cars use today. When you adjust the shift point, you have to adjust two set-screws equally, instead of just one.

A Centax-style clutch allows you to change the point of engine engagement without having to replace the springs and shoes under the clutch bell. If the clutch bell looks like a cylinder, you have the traditional clutch. If the clutch bell is conical, you have the Centax style. I think the Kawahara Centax clutch is more reliable as it uses fly weights instead of small steel balls. The entire assembly is lighter, which means less rotating mass in the car. Less rotating mass means your car can spool up quicker.

The solid rear axle really compliments the one-way front. The whole purpose of the solid rear axle is to make the car track better on the straights. One wheel can never go faster than the other, because they're connected. Obviously you run into a problem cornering. You will wear one tire faster than the other, and the car will tend to kick the tail out when you brake. Hence my recommendation for making the braking action a little lighter. I have heard that the solid axle is only for big tracks that have long straights. However, I have been using a solid axle in a parking lot track with a great deal of success. You will feel like you're learning to drive all over again, because the handling is quite different. Once you get the feel for it, you'll find that you're you can brake earlier and lighter for corners, and come out of them with more speed.

When setting up for a track, you need both steering and traction. Ask the locals what their setup is, and use it. Don't try to tweak it until you understand what you're changing.

You usually want to use a fairly thin (30 wt-40 wt or 350 cps-500 cps) shock fluid with small holes in the piston. This will give you softer suspension at the bottom of the range, good for soaking up bumps in a parking lot, but will cause the shocks to pack quicker at the top of the range. As for springs, try a medium spring first, and then determine if you need to go lighter or heavier. Again, ask people at your track what they're using. For more information about all of the adjustments, and what the do to affect handling, go to http://users.pandora.be/elvo/

For more information about the rubber vs. foam tire debate, go to http://www.nitrorc.com/

Rechargable battery packs put out 6.0 volts (5 cells) as opposed to electric cars that have 6 cells (7.2 v), so you may not be able to run your KO FET servos very well. To get you started, look into the HiTec 625. They're strong, fast, and usually under $40 from Tower Hobbies. You may want to replace them with something better down the road, but they will certainly do what you want them to for now.

Spare parts: extra tires, suspension arms, bodies, pinion and spur gears (to play with the ratios), and battery packs. I usually take a DC battery charger with me too, just in case I need to charge up a battery pack.

Hopefully I have helped a little!

--
Paul

[GolferJim]

Paul, Thanks, that's a very big help.

Can you tell me if I can get a similar feel as the solid axle by using a really heavy diff oil in the rear?

>> When setting up for a track, you need both steering and traction. Ask the locals what their setup is, and use it. Don't try to tweak it until you understand what you're changing.<<

I'm pretty familiar with general tuning guidlines. I'm just trying to get a sense of where the mtx-2 is more sensitive. For example, with one of my electric touring cars, there's a bunch of rear bite but you have to really work on getting more steering out of the corners, and that shapes your approach to how you setup the car.

[PaulH]

Paul, Thanks, that's a very big help.

Can you tell me if I can get a similar feel as the solid axle by using a really heavy diff oil in the rear?

>> When setting up for a track, you need both steering and traction. Ask the locals what their setup is, and use it. Don't try to tweak it until you understand what you're changing.<<

I'm pretty familiar with general tuning guidlines. I'm just trying to get a sense of where the mtx-2 is more sensitive. For example, with one of my electric touring cars, there's a bunch of rear bite but you have to really work on getting more steering out of the corners, and that shapes your approach to how you setup the car.

Yes, a very heavy (30,000 or 50,000) diff fluid will give you a similar feel, yet retain a small amount of diff action. The biggest difference is in the rotating mass. A geared diff with fluid will weigh a lot more than a solid axle, causing the engine to take longer to spool up. In fact, the setup sheets that are publicly available for the MTX-3 usually show the use of a front one-way and either 30,000 or 50,000 diff fluid in the rear diff.

I don't have an MTX-2, so I don't know its quirks. I just wanted to be helpful and give you some general advice for setting up your ride. :) From what I've read, the MTX-2 (and MTX-3) are really well balanced. They don't need a huge amount of adjusting. You might want to invest in a Hudy, Integy, or GS setup system. That would make getting all of the settings right a whole lot easier. It will also guarantee that your car will be equal on both sides, removing one source of concern when you think it's not handling properly.

Would you mind doing me a favor and measure the width of your rear diff or solid axle? I think the solid axle may be compatible with my touring car (GS Vision Pro) but no one I know has an MTX-2 for me to measure this part. Basically, all I need to know is long the diff is, from the outside of one bearing to the outside of the other bearing. If you could also give me a measurement from the end of one outdrive cup to the other, I would greatly appreciate it!

--
Paul

[GolferJim]

Thanks Paul. I will get that info to you sometime this weekend.

-Jim

[GolferJim]

Doug, outer drive to ouder driver is 2.52 inches

From the outer face of the bearing: 2.445 icnhes

Jim

[GolferJim]

Can anyone tell me if the centax clutch from an mtx-3 will work in the mtx-2, or maybe if there is any other centax clutch that will work on the mtx-2?? I am having a hard time finding one...

TIA,
-Jim

[vassd]

I own a MTX2 and bought it second hand, I am looking for a instruction manual but I can't find one. Can somebody help me out, since I can't use my car until I get one.

[GolferJim]

I can photocopy one for you but it will take me a few days. If you send me a pm with your address, I can mail it later this week or maybe next monday.

-Jim

[Vmax911]

I own a MTX2 and bought it second hand, I am looking for a instruction manual but I can't find one. Can somebody help me out, since I can't use my car until I get one.

Hey, I have a .pdf of the MTX-2 manual. Give me your e-mail addy and I'll send it to you.

[Wildewinds]

Hey guys. I'm running my mtx-2 after a 3 year hiatus. A problem I had them is the same problem I'm having now. The rear end is loose in the turns. It corners well on throttle, but the back end will very violently lose traction in a turn (quick spin-out) if I'm decelerating or maintaining my speed.

Anyone have ideas on what I can do to the setup to plant down the rear end better?

[GolferJim]

Had the same problem with mine when I first started racing. Give your car a good review of the droop settings and make sure that the suspension is even left to right. Are you running with a diff or a one-way?

-Jim

[Rob1962]

Since this thread is DEAD. Can some of you please re-direct me to some boards/sites where the MTX2 is the center of attention?
i own 3 of them for years Mugen are quality cars

[Rob1962]

Can you help me find 42t spur gear and 22t pinion for me MTX2
Thanks give the Guys at nitro at nitrohouse a call they carry everything for Mugen cars there web address is WWW.Nitrohouse.com :)

[mantella]

Hey, I have a .pdf of the MTX-2 manual. Give me your e-mail addy and I'll send it to you.

hello IF you still have this could you email it to me as well
mantella@insightbb.com
thanks jeff

[Needler56]

how do you remove the crankshaft and carberator for the MT12 engine? the crank spins freely, but doesn't want to back out.

[rcabj]

how do you remove the crankshaft and carberator for the MT12 engine? the crank spins freely, but doesn't want to back out.

1. for the c/shaft u just apply a gentle light tap to force it out ( i used the back non metal grip of a screw driver to tap)..

2. for the carby u just unscrew the screw which holds the carb body to the crankcase, then try to pull it out while twisting lightly back and forth..

good luck

[Needler56]

yea these things do not want to budge. should i throw it in the oven to relax the metal? if so, how do i do that? btw how do i get the rust off the face of the crankshaft?

[rcabj]

yea these things do not want to budge. should i throw it in the oven to relax the metal? if so, how do i do that? btw how do i get the rust off the face of the crankshaft?

i'm not sure u should try the oven thing....its for removing the inner main bearing only if i am not mistaken...

take your time with the crankshaft..i too had quite a hard time at first...

as for the rust i did apply sort of a autosol/brasso product ...than polish with clean cloth until it shines...but u better ask around to make sure the suitable rust remover so it won't cause any kind of damage to the c/shaft...

[Needler56]

i managed to get the crankshaft out. its pretty rusted. i was suggested by the lhs to spray it with WD-40 and wipe it with a wire brush. also, the threaded shaft is pretty messed up and i was also told by the lhs to use a "tap and die set," to redo the thread. i've never heard of that and not too sure what it looks like cause home depot has terrible service.

i might just go ahead and get a sg crankshaft turbo. is the head button turbo and turbo glow plug all that is left to create a complete turbo system?

any other suggestions?

[rcabj]

i managed to get the crankshaft out. its pretty rusted. i was suggested by the lhs to spray it with WD-40 and wipe it with a wire brush. also, the threaded shaft is pretty messed up and i was also told by the lhs to use a "tap and die set," to redo the thread. i've never heard of that and not too sure what it looks like cause home depot has terrible service.

i might just go ahead and get a sg crankshaft turbo. is the head button turbo and turbo glow plug all that is left to create a complete turbo system?

any other suggestions?

glad to hear u manage to get the c/shaft out...hmmm using wire brush eeh....won't it cause sratches to ur cshaft....
if ur planning to get the turbo crank, yeap i think left only button head & turbo plug to complete the system...just a thought , have u compare te cost between getting a new engine instead of replacing/getting all the upgrade u mention earlier... good luck

[Needler56]

glad to hear u manage to get the c/shaft out...hmmm using wire brush eeh....won't it cause sratches to ur cshaft....
if ur planning to get the turbo crank, yeap i think left only button head & turbo plug to complete the system...just a thought , have u compare te cost between getting a new engine instead of replacing/getting all the upgrade u mention earlier... good luck

yea i'm actually just gonna go ahead and get a new engine. but then i'm gonna try to salvage the engine i have right now, cause i think its still good and this is the best engine i've had so far. so as for the rust removal, should i just use the autosol/brasso solution you had mentioned?

[rcabj]

yea i'm actually just gonna go ahead and get a new engine. but then i'm gonna try to salvage the engine i have right now, cause i think its still good and this is the best engine i've had so far. so as for the rust removal, should i just use the autosol/brasso solution you had mentioned?

it is not advisable to use brasso/autosol cause it a bit corrosive (i think)..but i did use them very lightly spread on to the cranksahaft..and wipe/polish them with cloth...however i i think u won't be able to get all the rust off(but most of it)...at least when u finish the c/shaft will look better&shinier than b4...hehe

*don't use it to the piston/sleeve.

[Needler56]

it is not advisable to use brasso/autosol cause it a bit corrosive (i think)..but i did use them very lightly spread on to the cranksahaft..and wipe/polish them with cloth...however i i think u won't be able to get all the rust off(but most of it)...at least when u finish the c/shaft will look better&shinier than b4...hehe

*don't use it to the piston/sleeve.

yea i ended up using some rust remover called "naval jelly" and i used it lightly at first and it got most of it off. but i wanted all of it off. and i guess i did too much because now its not shiny, but the rust is totally gone. everything fits together tightly and moves smoothly and freely. is the strength of my crankshaft now reduced? is the shine for aesthetics or strength? i haven't ran the motor yet cause my starter box is out and the thread on the crankshaft is ruined. i'm gonna check out tower.

[rcabj]

yea i ended up using some rust remover called "naval jelly" and i used it lightly at first and it got most of it off. but i wanted all of it off. and i guess i did too much because now its not shiny, but the rust is totally gone. everything fits together tightly and moves smoothly and freely. is the strength of my crankshaft now reduced? is the shine for aesthetics or strength? i haven't ran the motor yet cause my starter box is out and the thread on the crankshaft is ruined. i'm gonna check out tower.

i do not think you should have any problem ..i've done this polishing thing twice already to y c/shaft and have good results....as long as the piston/sleeve and con rod r ok...

the shine...well i think the parts r suppose to be clean/shiny for better performance....there's nothing to do with aesthetics whatsoever...imo...

[Metzger]

I have been racing my MTX2 for a while now and occasionally have problems with my brake jamming. After a few frustrating DNF's I have decided to look into this issue. I think it might be getting too hot, it always seems to jam near the end of a race and free-up after a few minutes cooling down. The track where I race is very tight and the brakes are used very often. There is also a little discolouration on the disc which also leads me to think that heat is the issue.

Has anyone else had this issue? Has anyone tried to fit the MTX3 ventilated disc to the MTX2?

[Vmax911]

hello IF you still have this could you email it to me as well
mantella@insightbb.com
thanks jeff

Just sent it. Let me know if you don't get it.

[rcabj]

I have been racing my MTX2 for a while now and occasionally have problems with my brake jamming. After a few frustrating DNF's I have decided to look into this issue. I think it might be getting too hot, it always seems to jam near the end of a race and free-up after a few minutes cooling down. The track where I race is very tight and the brakes are used very often. There is also a little discolouration on the disc which also leads me to think that heat is the issue.

Has anyone else had this issue? Has anyone tried to fit the MTX3 ventilated disc to the MTX2?

hi...maybe your braking epa is to much....and usually some ppl put spring to the brake linkage....this is to make sure after u braked, once u pull on throttle the spring helps releases the discs...imo

[brunch]

Hey

I am looking to buy a second hand MTX-2 prospec.
I live in South Africa and am worried about part availability, are there still parts out there?
Also, is it worth buying this car, i mean, is it still competitive with nowadays cars? and is it a all round good car?
I own a TG10 and wanna sell it and get something better.
It's gonna cost me R2300, about $380, it is the pro spec chassis and has a RB Concept X12 engine and the Kawahara Pulley upgrade.

Help!!!!....... :confused:
Bruno

[rcabj]

Hey

I am looking to buy a second hand MTX-2 prospec.
I live in South Africa and am worried about part availability, are there still parts out there?
Also, is it worth buying this car, i mean, is it still competitive with nowadays cars? and is it a all round good car?
I own a TG10 and wanna sell it and get something better.
It's gonna cost me R2300, about $380, it is the pro spec chassis and has a RB Concept X12 engine and the Kawahara Pulley upgrade.

Help!!!!....... :confused:
Bruno

hello brunch...over here in malaysia the mtx-2 r rarely found, most guys r having the mtx-3 ....since u r in for mugen,why don't u try to find the mtx3...

[Metzger]

Thanks rcabj,

Ill give the spring thing a try ... Also I just ordered a Trinity Reflex ventilated disc from Tower Hobbies. I have heard that it will fit the MTX2.

Does anyone know a good online-store to buy parts for the MTX2 especially hopup parts from Kawahara etc...

Thanks
Metz

[daveo]

I don't see too many people post on this thread much anymore, but I thought I would ask anyway. I am having problems with my 2 speed shifting. I can't ever hear it shift. When I got the car the shift pawl was glued to the 2 speed disk with blue loctite. I had to use a dremel to get it out and now it doesn't seem to ever shift. Any suggestions to try or should I just get a new 2 speed disk?

[Rob1962]

We need a Mtx2 forum but i cannot post

[rcabj]

We need a Mtx2 forum but i cannot post

?????

[Needler56]

is there a non turbo version mt12 equipped with an sg shaft?

[BOWHUNTER]

looking for a pdf manual for mxt-2!!!!

[rc411]

I just picked up a used MTX-2 Prospec WITH the original engine. But, of course, its locked up LOL. There is a carbon fiber aftermarket yet for this car, if I can get this thing running, it might be worth adding in the near future.

[Rob1962]

Where are all the Mugen owners? I know there are a bunch of peeps on this BB that have MTX cars...
Is the MTX2 forum alive

[prostock]

Hello all,

The MTX-2 is the chassis that set the trend in nitro on-road racing and is still a great contender. I still run my MTX-2 when I get a chance these day and I love this car.

Technology has brought us to the MTX-4R today but the blood line is can still be identified as MTX-2.

:teacher:

[prostock]

All,

The MTX-2 will be up on ebay today for sale; I have found my new racing class with the DM-1 and the IGT. It is sad but time to mpve on the car is still new as it was my second MTX-2 and ran once to break-in a Os CV-R engine. :(:)

[neily]

sup dudes new to the forum, just wondering what would be a good motor for my mugen?? im thinking of a .15 but what brand???:confused:

[neily]

what bodies would fit on a mugen mtx 2???