Duratrax Overdrive

[Zilla3boy]

Anybody know what crankshaft type the velocity is? I'm starting to look around at different engines that I could drop into my truck when the .17 goes, not that it will be anytime real soon, but just wondering what my options are. I think its an SG shaft, right? I was looking at that Fantom .15 that's supposed to have like 1.25 hp, I've heard they're good engines. Has anybody else done an engine swap? If so, what would you recommend.

[PumPkinHead]

Read one of my post on page 8.

[tl01magic]

I cannot get my Velocity .17 tuned properly. I can get it to idle and stuff, but when I hammer on it it stalls. If I ease into it I can get it going but then if I idle down slowly it will stall at about half throtle. Is it maybe a problem with the carborater? Or is there maybe an air leak? And do hobby shops tune engines for free or do they even do it at all? Thanks for reading.

Sincerely,

TL01 Magic

[RacerST]

You may be running it too rich. Thats about all I got.

[tl01magic]

Hey Rgracer how has your truck been holding up?

[Zilla3boy]

Tlo1, where are your needles set at? This is the same problem I was having with my engine, and the problem was that the low speed needle was set way too rich.

One thing I have figured out about tuning this engine, a little goes a long way. Most people I've talked to say to turn the needles 1/8 turn at a time when tuning, I personally think that's almost too much on this engine. Just barely moving the needle at all on mine causes big changes.

Oh yeah, I also lightened the clutch shoes on mine to let the engine spool up more before the clutch engages. Huge difference, now it takes off like a rocket, and getting the engine tuned so that it won't bog down is easier.

[tl01magic]

I have the lsn set flush with the brass housing, and the hsn is 2 and one quarter turns from in. Do you know the purpose of the hose that conects to the muffler? It had a crack in it at the fuel tank. I since cut the crack part of the hose off and reattached it. I was just wondering if that would have had an affect on it running poorly. So I guess I should just keep trying. I just never know if it is to lan or to rich. Should it smoke at idle? And when I give it full throtle?

Thanks for reading

Sincerely,

TL01 Magic

[Zilla3boy]

The line from the pipe to the fuel tank is a pressure line. It basically pressurizes the fuel tank and helps the engine draw fuel better.

My engine does not smoke at idle. It does leave a thin trail of smoke at full throttle, and as I understand it that's what you want it to do.

Always remember to set the hsn first, because as you richen or lean the hsn, you're doing the same to the lsn. For a lot of good, detailed information on engine tuning, go here: http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/super_tune.asp

This article also gives clutch and pipe tuning links, so you can further improve on your performance. I used the information from there to tune my clutch, and got a huge boost in acceleration.

Just keep playing with it until you're happy, and have fun. Sorry for the long post :D

[Zilla3boy]

Oh yeah, just for the record, if you lose the drive to the front wheels and just have the rear ones, this truck becomes VERY difficult to keep under control. The .17 has way more power than you need for 2 wheel drive, but it can be a lot of fun throwing rooster tails of dirt as you slide sideways at WOT! :cool:

[tl01magic]

I think I am getting close to haveing it tuned properly. And it only took me four tanks to get it like that. lol .

I was wondering if your truck is slower on grass then on pavement. When I run mine on pavement I hear that soothing scream from the engine, but when I run it on my lawn it sounds like it won't get humming along. And it goes relitively slow on my lawn compared to pavement. Is that normal? I am stuck in high gear also, I lost that damn tiny screw and spring in the two speed clutch. Would that make it slowish on grass 'cause it doesn't have enough tork?

Thanks for reading!

Sincerely,

TL01 Magic

[Zilla3boy]

Yup, its going to go slower on the grass than on the pavement, and if you're stuck in high gear, I imagine it would only be worse, because there isn't enough tourque, just like you said. Good to hear you're getting close, and I'm sure that if you had 1st gear, you'd probably be able to get it closer. I think being stuck in 2nd would probably not make tuning very easy.

[tl01magic]

Well I am in first gear now. I removed the screw that clamps the two speed clutch onto the shaft so it just spins freely. It is alot better on the grass now. I have lots of high end power but no mid or low end. Wow, tunning nitro engines is hard.

Sincerely,

TL01 Magic

[tl01magic]

Zilla3boy, What are your needles set at? I found mine runs better when the lsn is sticking out from the brass housing about 1mm. But that seems like it would be way to rich. Also my idle needle is opened like all the way. I set it so I can fit a 1.5mm allen wrench in between the the hole in the caburater barrel.

My high speed needle I think is outlike 2 3/4 or 3 turns. This just sounds so much more rich the the break-in settings which are already really rich. Would an air leak cause this?


Sincerely,

A guy who should have bought a new Overdrive instead of a used one.

[Zilla3boy]

My hsn is set between 2 1/4, and 2 1/2 turns, depending on the day. My lsn is actually a little bit in the housing. By the way, I also bought my Overdrive used, and where the needles were set for the other guy didn't work at all for me. If you changed fuels from what the original owner used, it may be a part of the problems? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but when you change fuels you almost have to do another break in period, right?

Oh yeah, an air leak might cause this, so check for bubbles in the fuel line when the engine is running, and maybe seal the carbeurator and see if it helps.

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

When i change fuels i normally let the car tick over for 2 tanks on the new fuel im going to start running it with

[tl01magic]

Okay the weather is better now and I have almost got the hang of this tunning thing. I have power in the middle to full throtle, but a not very much from idle to middle throtle. If I lean out the lsn it will stall at about mid-throtle if I keep it there for longer then a few secnonds, so I have to keep it near 3/4 to full throtle to keep it running, actualy I just give it quick bursts to control the speed. Any reasons why it might do this? Maybe the tank isn't getting the presure it needs? or the carb can't suck the fuel?

Thanks for reading! TL01 Magic

[jcole1976]

sounds to me like you have a problem with the engine somewhere. check the compression by spinning the flywheel by hand, if it becomes hard to turn when the piston compresses that's good. if it spins easily time for a new p/s. that's probably not the problem.

check fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel tank primer for possible air leaks, and finally check the carb, head, and backplate of the engine for leaks. and make sure the air filter is clean and if you have a fuel filter make sure that is clean.

the velocity engine tuning is a headache sometimes but it should never be as difficult as you're having.

[Tjcdas12]

New St this week has not fired. Changed glow plugs, covered carb with finger, ect........tried every thing I know, tiped car to get gas out, burn gas of plug.

Any tips to learn how to get the truck going

[jcole1976]

i had the same trouble when mine was new, took about a hour to get it going the first time. i learned that if you prime just to where you see the fuel hit the carb and have the hsn about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out and no throttle it won't flood. if it's still not starting loosen the glow plug a little then try to start it. that's not a good practice to get into though. it makes the engine run extremely lean so you have to tighten it back up quickly. you can snug it with the glow starter before you remove it then wrench it down tight. should fire right up if you do this. loosening the glow plug is a last hope thing to do so be careful. hope this helps.

[tl01magic]

Ya compression seems fine. I have to hold the truck down fairly firmly when starting from cold. As it warms up I don't have to. I think that it is normal for compression to fall as it warms up. As the weather gets warmer it seems it is eaiser to tune. there is more play it seems. I still have the HSN out 3 turns, and the LSN is out so there is about a 1mm gap between the needle and spray bar inside the carb. I have the idle needle set pretty high to keep it from stalling. it is really rich at idle but oh well. It is what works right now. Also How much smoke should I be seeing through out the power band? there is a ton at low speeds but not very much at 3/4 throtle. 4/4 throtle I can't see much either.

[jcole1976]

the smoke you see when driving is a good way to tell how the engine's tuned. the lsn needs to be leaned out and the hsn needs to be richer. there should always be a good stream of smoke from the pipe throughout the power band.

[tl01magic]

I am going to check for air leaks. I already checked the fuel tank annd it is fine. I stripped the screws for the back plate so I am going to have to get an ez out or something, maybe heating up the engine will help me.

I have come to the conclusion that it can't suck up the fuel it needs. Otherwise why would I have to have both the needle so far out, right? What is wiered is when I lean it out, and let it idle for a fwe seconds it will run okay for about 10 seconds.

I am thinking it is because the crankcase fills with fuel or something. So you recommend I seal all the areas that could possiably have an air leak?

Also, I did buy it used. Is there a chance the guy who owned it before me Played with the crank to try and change the timeing or something and screwed it up? Although I do hear the little suckingor popping sound when I have the plug out and turn the fly wheel by hand.

Thank you for reading this long story,

Sincerely, TL01 Magic

[Phat]

i'm getting a used one any pointers/ mods i should do?

[chuckwagon123]

Well my Overdrive ST problem is fixed, I got the engine tuned. My name was TL01 Magic I changed it, just so you know. I was getting ready to list it on eBay right after I finished cleaning the engine and carburator. I took it out once I had it back together and it ran like a dream! These things rip. I guess it was the carburator that needed a cleaning in nail polish remover. Maybe the was some debrie of some sort in there blocking the flow of fuel which was why I had to richen the mixture alot, but also way it still would run consistant throught the power band.

just posting a follow up fyi.

[blades]

Hey Guys

I have a gravedigger body and stock yellow wheels with proline
paddle tires, and duratrax paddles like new. I'll sell all for
$ 40.00 plus shipping.

E-mail me and I'll send pics. Thanks.

havy@sbceo.org:cool:

[Kenny123]

I am selling a Like new DuraTrax Overdrive St. with all of DuraTrax’s hop-up parts, XTM .18 engine 1.3 HP 32,000 RPM, XTM .18 conversion kit, RPM Blue body mounts, Aluminum wheels $60 a pair with Pro-Line Masher 2000 Tires, and Boca Green Sealed ball bearings all over (26 total). This truck has only been run for 4 tanks of fuel!! You will need to finish the engine brake-in. Also I doubled the front and rear Aluminum Hinge Pin Plates because they where to thin. I did this so they won’t bend. I bought this truck for $370 new with out any of the hop-up parts.
The only thing you will need to run this truck is a pull start system that’s an $18 part. The only reason you will need is because I had a Hot Bodies electric star system, so I sold the original pull start. The Truck comes RTR with stock radio. This truck also has reverse. The truck also comes with spare parts.



Here is a list of all the Hop-Up parts and how much they each cost me:

RPM Long Body Mounts Blue T/E-Maxx (2) $11.38
Atomik 1/10 F-350 Flame Blue/Silver T-Maxx Body $32.00
DuraTrax Differential Ring Gear 37T Harden Steel Overdrive ST (2) $65.98
DuraTrax Shock Spring Purple Firm Overdrive ST (4) $6.78
DuraTrax CV Shafts Overdrive ST in rear only came with front $21.49
DuraTrax Steering Bellcrank Aluminum Blue Overdrive ST $28.99
DuraTrax Hub Carriers Rear Aluminum Blue Overdrive ST $21.99
DuraTrax Hub Carriers Aluminum Blue Front Overdrive ST $21.99
DuraTrax Hinge Pin Plate Aluminum Blue Overdrive ST $7.99 x 4 = $31.96
DuraTrax Aluminum Suspension arms lower (4) $51.98
DuraTrax Aluminum Suspension arms upper (4) $37.98
XTM .18 engine $107.99
XTM .18 conversion kit with header and pipe $39.99
Boca rubber sealed ball bearings 26 total $75.95
Aluminum wheels $120
Pro-line Masher 2000 Tires $34
Motor Saver Air Filter $13.99
Hitec HS-625MG Metal gear Servo 94oz. of torque at .15sec. $39.99


The total for everything is $764.43 with out including the truck. If you include the truck the total is $1,134.43

I want $500 with shipping included. Please email me at Kennyvip@msn.com

I will only trade for a HOT BODIES DIRT DEMON, HPI SAVAGE, 2.5 T-MAXX, .21 T-MAXX, OR A OFNA TITAN.

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Hey guys,

Getting my truck bk from centre point 2moro(u.k duratrax distributor)

they are seeting it for me, cus da low speed was mucked!

anywayz i was wonderin if any 1 had seen or heard of the XTM .18 engine whichu can put in the overdrive?

[Kenny123]

Yes you can put an XTM .18 engine in your overdrive, put you will also need to buy the XTM .18 conv. kit from XTM

[1stPlace]

Does anyone make Titanium parts for the Overdrive? It seems like all the good stuff is only available for T-MAX or NMT.

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

As far as i know only duratrax make hop ups for the overdrive,

like aluminium suspension arms, upper arms,
hub carriers, hubs and stuff like that, i haven't put any hop ups on mine yet

[R3VoLuTiOn]

i want one of these... great value $299. how much is it gonna cost me in long run tho, since a lot of u have problems. oh, i should add, if u ppl break susp.arms plz dont whine about it. if u do jumps and **** like I WILL:D **** will break.

please just answer good or bad.. im gonna order in the next week:o

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Hey Revolution,

i got my overdrive for 350 and in my lhs its just gone up 2 400 so ur getting it at a good price,

its a good truckj, if u read back a few pages you see i fell out with it, but im happy wiv it now, i havent had 2 pay for loads of broken parts, all i've broke is the body post! the bad part is the engine is hard to tune but ive overcome that now, and this engine does have lots of power!

I havent broken my arms yet, but theres no need to whine, u get a replacement part and hop up sheet wiv the truck and u can get all those parts in shiney blue aluminium!

so i'd say get it if you dont mind having a little engine tuning trouble.

i'd say its good value for the money.

Nitro~Freek!!!

[R3VoLuTiOn]

thats the problem. this truck is really good for teh price. but ive never even run a nitro, i dont wanna have such a hard time getting it to run properly, and i might even break something. waiting 2 wks for crap to arrive isnt fun either...

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Revolution- I see what ya mean, u dont wanna wait for something thats useless,

Why dont ya look at the cen MT2, i might get 1 when i get rid of my overdrive, it costs 300 ,its rtr monster truck, .16 engine and 2 speed capable of 45mph+. look at www.cenracing.com

Nitro~Freek!!!

[R3VoLuTiOn]

yup, im gettin the overdrive.... NEXT SUMMER!?! rofl, i decided to give more time to think about it, and i can get a job next summer too! I just got more upgrade parts for my elect tourin car. :)

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Next Summer:eek: thats cool:)

Once you get the engine running you wont be dissapointed:D

#Nitro~Freek!!!

[crip]

I bought mine used, had 10 tanks run through, so it was already broken in. I have had major tuning issues, one was contributed by the header coming loose without being noticed. I really want another one but for the cost, I'll get an Evader, and I am not getting rid of my Overdrive. I'm looking to put CV joints in the rear and upgrade to aluminum suspension arms. Worn out O-rings caused me to loose a dogbone, never happened again after I fixed it. I spend a week familiarising myself with it in the parkinglot of a condo where we were staying in Florida. This was my first Nitro car and I plan to keep it, and hopefully get another soon.
I had to get some shock fluid and top them off, they were low and too spongy, no rebound. I plan on running purple springs in the rear, and the stock yellow up front, the engine makes the rear heavy. The body plastic has a large round hole in the windshield, cutout rear window, and a spot for the pull cord, for starting with the body on.
Is there an exhaust pipe upgrade, I saw one on E-bay running an aftermarket pipe, but no others. The OS 18 on the Evader looks like a sweet swap if my V 17 wears out.
I attracted a crowd in Florida as I had it screaming through the parkinglot, really wish I had 10% Nitro fuel instead of the 20% I ran in it, sure was hot out, but I ran it rich. A Tmaxx guy was fond of the stock pan, offered as an upgrade on the Tmax but Duratrax has it RTR. I didn't put it in the sand, it required tuning and being in a wheelchair, I couldn't go get it.

[crip]

A hard run in loose dirt and gravel today lost my rear dogbone, last time was on asfault, but found it, no way to find it in the dirt though. Time to upgrade the rear to CV shafts now.

[Kenny123]

Is anyone interested in Stainless Steel spur gears for the Overdrive? If yes email me at: KennyVIP@msn.com

[Wr95jp]

To all planning to by or just got one.

It a love hate ownership, its a great truck but it is very hard to break in or even to keep it running

I had mine for 4 months and have done allot to it.

Parts broke. Body post, front shock screws

Problems with. Weel nuts, Dog bone culpler front,
Motor burned up on 2ond tank, still looking for a great shift point
it shifts but it hits so hard its makes the truck fish-tale.

Hop-Ups. Os CV-RX .15 motor ( kicks but and takes names )

T-MAXX header pipe and a RC-10 Gt stinger pipe

( ran the exhaust out the back to keep it clean, Did not expect
it to run even cooler and improve lowend porf )

A-3 glow plug

Warning!!!!!! The ST dose not fly very well ( nose heavy )
nothing broke

My top Speed At current is 42 mph

I will never get rid of mine and i hope those of u who have one
Be forgiveing once it broke in its a great truck and if you have the money and knolage its got a lot to give

Trucks i have beaten with the st on a road course

T-Maxx E-MAXX Savage.21 RC10 GT And 2 LOSSie Buggys

Good luck with yours and keep it mooooooving

[guver]

I just got my odst going, and am having trouble with it stalling over 1/4 throttle. It will idle forever and run good up to 1/4, it has only had 1 tank thru it and is still on the car stand.

I have zero nitro experience, but it sure acts like something running out of fuel (lean) there is no smoke, and I opened the hsn and it doesn't make any difference.

also the lsn I think is perfect. Any ideas??

[guver]

works pretty good now it was too rich hsn.

[guver]

Oh this is gonna be fun when it gets broke in ok maybe it won't stall so much.. I have a few questions for the odst experts.

On the hubs what are the extra holes for to make wider?
How about the shafts then? Any body use 8 shocks or a lot heavier shock oil?

and finally what keeps the aluminum wheel hex adapter from spinning? Is it just the taper ?

[guver]

No odst owners?

Oh well how do you'all keep the wheel nuts tight?

running much much better now with 2 new gloplugs and being broken in. Still likes to stall after revving it though.

Love the two speed:)

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Since the weather got a lil better today i went to the lhs to pick up some fuel and get a new pullstart ( my 3rd one so far), started it up after its been sitting around for about a month, and its running fine, stalled a couple of times, low speed needed setting but apart from that it was great, i think its time for some hop ups :D

i'll post back later,

N~F

[guver]

Here is something I did to the rear, but haven't had the weather to test it yet. I put these wider dogbones in it cuz one bent.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEBG6&P=K

and installed a little o-ring at each end of the bone, then I used the inner holes on the hubs to make it an inch or so wider. I had already had two extra shocks on the rear and it feels pretty good. I haven't quite figured the front out yet. and we'll see if it's any good.

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

You mean you got 4 shocks on the rear? i haven't seen that on the overdrive yet.

Let me know how those dogbones workout ;)

N~F

[guver]

Yes that's correct. The truck seemed really underdamped b-4

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Yeah i know what you mean, straight out of the box the shocks oil is to light anyway, and due to its weight the rear of the chassis gets a scratch after a jump.

N~F

[guver]

I'm getting rid of my new one and maybe my driver and try to get a thunderquake if I can afford it. The new one is posted already.

[catman25]

there are 6 little o plastic rings that came in same ackage as air filter..also a piece of hard palstic about this long ------------------------ and it is ( this shape on bottom may have come out of radio box..thanks:-0

[guver]

Ya open the radio box and you'll see the slot for it.
I think the o-rings you describe are shock pistons maybe . do they have tiny holes in them?

[catman25]

no there isnt tiny holes ,there are six and they are all attached to the same piece of plastic. Also does any one know this answer...i started it for the first time and it idle for a min then gave more rpm's and then more...it stated to go forward really slowly..is this normal and what setting would be to change it or is it just cause it is rich?

[catman25]

i was running it out side and realize my front wheel dont spin..thought this was 4 wheel drive..just curoius what to check or fix or suttin?

[catman25]

my pull start cord doing go all the way back in...there is spring return but it doesnt fit flush and its only 2 days old???

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Is the caseing on tight? if it is id suggest taking it off and checkin that everything is in right

N~F

[guver]

Originally posted by catman25
i was running it out side and realize my front wheel dont spin..thought this was 4 wheel drive..just curoius what to check or fix or suttin?

check wheel nuts for titeness

[kahns415]

this truck is complete crap every time i drove it somthing new would break

[chuckwagon123]

I had the same problem. Great truck to look at, but don't try and drive it. It is trash.

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

hmmm..i was running mine 2day (haven't done it in ages)..

and it ran perfect after a few adjustments

im gonna have 2 start upgrading it a bit

N~F

[catman25]

Not even a full quart threw it.To fast for my location.I upgraded to aluminum steering and the original will be shipped to.Also comes with original box,manuals,fuel bottle,glow plug lighter,body and plugs.I have original tower hobbies reciept that i bought this in end of jan.Will also included a extra servo.remote has a recharge pack and will include charger.Any ofers?pics can be seen just e-mail me at catman25@verizon.net

[guver]

Duratrax has stopped making the odst, not going to replace it either. I personally thought it was a great deal compared to the other 4-wd stadium trucks. cuz it had the 2-spd and rev.

[madblunted]

I need to make room. I had to get rid of one truck. It is the overdrive st. I found that it has been very hard to get parts for this truck. Other than tower hobbies, I would have to have my LHS order the parts. I hated waiting. Anyways, here is a link to parts on ebay. they are going for cheap as I dont feel I need to make a profit from them.

I am looking at putting more money into my XXX nt.

The link to see the parts is:

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=edwin1&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

[RrR]

So who still runs there ODST? Plus I am have trouble finding used parts can some help me? :)

[dgee]

Hi. I'm looking for a body for this truck. Is there anyone here who knows which bodies work well for the Overdrive ST? (ie not requiring too much modifications?) Can anyone give me some advice, especially if you have already fit other bodies on this truck before.

Thanx!

[dgee]

I noticed there were some old posts about adjusting the shift point for the Overdrive ST. So was anyone able to fix the settings the way they wanted? I tried to adjust it to shift earlier, but I may have unknowingly been adjusting the set screw that goes into housing some of the time, and adjusting the screw that sits on the housing other times. Anyway can someone please help me with the default settings for both of these screws? Or with how to change the shift timing?

In the manual, it says 5.5 turns out, but as RacerST stated, it seems like the screw is just going to fall out at any time at 5.5 full rotations out.

Any help would be appreciated, thanx.

[bob333]

use locktite so it wont fall out(:

[eurothorbate]

Nobody using this thread anymore??

[dbatcheller09]

i have a duratrax overdrive st and i was driving it and the dog bone fell out do i put it back in and found out that i needed a spring is that the only cause or is there more that i need

[eurothorbate]

Buy the cvds that are in the front drive and that problem will be solved. That is what I did. Remember to use heat shrink tape on the pin so it doesn't fall out

[dbatcheller09]

check wheel nuts for titeness

ya check the nuts to see if they are to tight

[dbatcheller09]

now another problem with it when everything is running fine in all but when i start to go and try to pick up speed it barley moves and just revs up really loud what should i do or what is the problem and how to fix it? help!!!

[guver]

i have a duratrax overdrive st and i was driving it and the dog bone fell out do i put it back in and found out that i needed a spring is that the only cause or is there more that i need

I put additional little o-rings on the ends of dog-bone to keep it centered.

[guver]

now another problem with it when everything is running fine in all but when i start to go and try to pick up speed it barley moves and just revs up really loud what should i do or what is the problem and how to fix it? help!!!

sounds like maybe in the clutch? like it is slipping?

[dbatcheller09]

when i start the overdrive it starts then i start to run it it runs fine for a little bit then just stops nothing moves exept the sper gears so i open it up in the back and look in the black box and move it around a bit then everything works so i get it back together run it it does the same thing i need to know how to fix this mess thanks

[eurothorbate]

dbatcheller are you talking about the rear diff.
If you have any problems with your car here is the list of theings I did to fix all the problems that happened when it kept breaking (everytime I drove it)
1.Changed the motor. The orginal one is hard to tune and doesn't produce much power. I replaced it with a os .18. Fit no problem All you have to do is cut down the crankshaft and cut new slots to mount it. Even the stock mounts work.
2.replaced the rear dogbones with the cvds like in the front. No more dog bones poping out and if it does you don't loose it in the dirt.
3.built a support for the shock towers. The shock towers will bend in towards the middle of the car and the shock will bend. All you need it a piece of threaded pipe, I used a 10 millimeter piece and four nuts. place the piece in the middle of the shock towers on both ends and bolted it togther to make it stronger. If oyu want a picture of tis e-mail me brosmeat@telus.net.
4. buy extra spur gears. you will strip them because there is no slipper clutch. they are $4.00 each from tower hobbies. Cheap, cheap, buy a few.
Now ti runs great and almost never breaks. Well only when I jump 20 feet in the air and land bad. I even prefer to drive this car over my tmaxx.

[RacerST]

Im gonna finally buy a new engine for christmas. I just ordered an electric Traxxas Rustler to tide me over because the Velocity 17 put me in nitro blues. Hopefully I can have nitro bliss again after I install the OS. Any other people have good outcomes with the OS?

[RacerST]

I suppose it will take awhile to start this thread up again. More specifically from last post, im gonna get the O.S. .18 CV-RX w/11J Rotary Carb. I e-mailed OS and they said it would be a perfect fit. I havent read about anyone who used it yet, only the .15 so if you already have this one let me know. Also, if you didnt know Tower Hobbies has $25 off $200 dollar or more purchase. It was worth it when I bought my Rustler. Hobbytown has the O.S. for the same price though so im gonna go there for that.

[eurothorbate]

Don't waste your money. As soon as you change to the .18 like I did you will have to put in hardened steel diffs and the screws holding the driveshaft yokes will losten after 5 min of play time even with locktite. I would recomend that you throw it in the garbage and buy a new car like a jato.

[RacerST]

I would love to but if I got all the hop-ups and the engine it would still be less than a Jato.

[eurothorbate]

yeah but it would still break down all the time. You will be endlessly cursing the truck.

[eurothorbate]

Oh I forgot you will need new tires because the old ones will not have enough grip. And the thing flies like a hammer

[RacerST]

Just thought id post a pic with it installed. All I did was trim the engine mounts.

http://geocities.com/menomin000/images/PICT0001.JPG

I also lowered the towers so the body would sit lower and less chance they would break. You can see it better below.

http://geocities.com/menomin000/images/PICT0002.JPG

[RacerST]

Finally got it running today. So far its easier than the velocity. I hope it remains that way. Ill be racing with my brother in November. Hes got an HPI MT. He just bought the same engine as me though so he should kick my butt, but it should be fun. Am I the only one with one of these now? LOL

[RacerST]

Heres a picture of my current toys. No hop-ups yet...

http://www.geocities.com/menomin000/images/trucks1.jpg

[RacerST]

That 18 definetely has some power!!! I had a few things come loose after like 5 minutes. Noticed that the screws didnt have any original loctite. I applied some to the important stuff and ill try again this weekend. The OS is awesome though, starts right up and no issues at all. Now that I know what a real engine is like im gonna start having fun again!!

[RacerST]

Took it to the track finally. Had a dogbone pop out but thats it. Im using blue automotive loctite so that might be the difference with stuff not coming loose.

Im considering purple shocks in the front because the front comes down quick over jumps. Anyone know if that will help?

[RacerST]

2.replaced the rear dogbones with the cvds like in the front. No more dog bones poping out and if it does you don't loose it in the dirt.


I didnt realize these were that expensive. Have you heard of a way to keep the dogbones in? Also, what tires do you recommend? I noticed they arent that good but I know nothing about tires.

[RacerST]

I know this thread is dead but one has to try. I installed firm springs all around and a little thicker shock oil to see if that would help things. I originally had firm in the front and soft in the rear which allowed it to take jumps better by popping the front end up. Unfortunetely, the front end bounced a bit on the landing. Thats why I put in thicker shock oil. I also put firms in the rear cause im still testing the vehicle dynamics. Id also like to add that since ive installed the OS it would be hard for me to turn to another company. Its almost as easy as an electric!!

[muck76]

so this is a littel old but found one on ebay i am thinking about if the price is right.
What do they need besides a trash can. They look decent, reverse work well? once the diffs are upgraded to the steel version, all else handle a little beatings?
thanks

[RacerST]

I still have mine but I dont recommend it to anyone. I locked out my reverse (and removed servo to save weight) and I have CVDs front and rear along with steel diffs. I replaced the radio and transmitter because of bad glitching but I still have the stock servos (pretty amazing but they do suck). I also replaced the engine with and OS 18 (maybe too much power). Whatever else I may have replaced would be elsewhere in this thread. I dont think its the worse truck on the planet but probably close. Also, I have a buggy and a truggy now so this kind of sits on the backburner but because this is the first one ive ever bought I keep it running. As a note, it doesnt seem like Tower Hobbies is restocking parts so you may start to have issues with availability.

[black_co]

RacerST

I just bought an Overdrive off of ebay, I was wondering what cv shaft you used for the rear end of this truck? I didn't want to lose a dogbone and have to try to find a replacement for it, although tower hobbies still has some parts and there are still some on ebay every once in a while.

Thanks

[RacerST]

DTXC7281. Front and rear are the same. Ya, looks like they are discontinued from Tower. I did get a few hits for the part number though. Good luck.

[black_co]

Thanks for the reply.... I will check it out and see what upgrades are left.

[sewell27]

if any body looking for a place to try out their off road nitro. hit me up i found a new spot it about 50 acres of land lot of jumps and everything. located in fairburn ga. just let me know i can get you some direction.