Associated TC3 Forum v2.0

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Originally posted by mochunk
Well, at the time, it was easy to find a pic of it. There were several always on ebay, and I could do a simple search on google for megatech or gpm and tc3 and find them. Matter of fact, there was a place that had a killer selection of megatech tc3 stuff. But of course, now I can't find any of it.

I guess I'll have to take a pic tomorrow when I get to work. Basically though, picture a flat on the outside, curved on the inside plate, that roughly fits in the rectangle motor opening in the chassis, screwed vertically to one end of it, being a round loop with a screw hole at the top and bottom of it. It appears as if it's designed to mount to the motor underneath the adjustment cam, but that's just not happening.

Actually, duh, I checked back on my ebay account and that auction was still available, and was able to grab the pic, so here we go.

http://mochunk.net/rccars/gfx/tc3/bottomheatsink.jpg

Troll

I wasn't expecting to see something that "exotic", but you may have already tried this and I don't think it's clear to me.

Mount the heatsink in between the motor and the motor adjustment cam. I don't know if the screws are long enough. Other than this, I don't see any other way of mounting it.

Do you have a eBay number with that auction or the part number for the heatsink? I'm interested in bringing one in to look at.

But my suggestion to you is to get the Associated Long heatsink that goes ON TOP of the motor. Since heat tends to dissapate "upwards", having the fins on top is more efficient. But then again the TC3 chasis is so flat, ground effect actually occurs and air tends to move faster along the bottom creating a suction therefore cooling the bottom heatsink making it effective.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

To get the Megatech stuff try:
http://www.ahc1931.com/cgi-bin/miva?Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=ahc1931&Category_Code=TC3Parts

Megatech Parts are identical to the GPM parts but alot less expensive :)

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Thanks RC.

http://www.ahc1931.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/MTC22123.jpg

I think that proves my "theory".

[Burnout]

Its time for me to finally join you guys! I always wanted one but always hesitated getting one. I have thought about getting the cheaper versions of it, but learning a few things from you folks the only version that is worth getting is the Factory Team. So that's what I got! Racer too stripped down, Team not enough hop ups, and to get them up to Factory status is too much money! Getting a big fat tip I made from work and part of my tax return I just had to go all out (okay, not really all out :D).

So I thought about getting a used one. I know I could get it cheaper plus probably extra's that people throw in too. But no, I just have to build one. So the search only ended up finding it for $269.95 the lowest. I came across an ad yesterday and found a private party owner that had a sealed kit. Bought it today for $230 (of course not a deal of the century but sure beats paying full price plus taxes). Funny thing was I bought an E Maxx from the same person (very nice fellow) almost a year ago.

Obviously I'm very happy and maybe I'll build it next week :). What ya think guys, $230 is decent...right?

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Compare that with the MSRP on the box and you tell me. LOL :D

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by Burnout
.....

Obviously I'm very happy and maybe I'll build it next week :). What ya think guys, $230 is decent...right?


That's a awesome price...! :)

[FSU427P]

$230 is pretty good. I wish I would have bought the FT in the first place. I bought the racer kit b/c it was cheaper and I have ended up buying every FT upgrade since. I spent twice as much than if I would have just bought the FT in the first place. It's okay though, my car is now at full factory team specs and is just phenominal at the track.

BTW I have that very heatsink from megatech and I have tried my best to fit it. Whether I try it in front or behind the motor adjustment cam it will not fit. If anybody has had luck with it let me know.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by FSU427P
....

BTW I have that very heatsink from megatech and I have tried my best to fit it. Whether I try it in front or behind the motor adjustment cam it will not fit. If anybody has had luck with it let me know.

Fits very well with the IRS graphite chassis...runs flat across the bottom of the chassis...unfortunately I sold the car..but kept the heatsink to put on the New Yok SD1. :D

[FSU427P]

Now that makes sense! I've been meaning to get the IRS chassis anyways. Thanks a bunch

[Burnout]

Thanks fellas, I feel much more better! $499.95 MSRP...hehe. So right now I'm in no hurry to build it, I'm just glad I finally got it. Probably on my next days off I will dedicate the whole day building it slowly and carefully :rolleyes: .

[mochunk]

Originally posted by RC-ZOMBIES
Fits very well with the IRS graphite chassis...runs flat across the bottom of the chassis...unfortunately I sold the car..but kept the heatsink to put on the New Yok SD1. :D

That's pretty lame.

Ok fine, it fits the chassis, but still, how is it supposed to mount?

I concur, it just doesn't fit anywhere on the front of the motor, the screws are not long enough.

Oh well, back on ebay it goes once the original auction is taken down :)

I actually just saw that SD an hour ago, looks nice. A bit pricy though.

I'm not sure how I feel about shaft drive now anyways, Seems to suck a lot of energy. Gearing aside, my buddies KX-one, with a 13t T1 motor, and my tc3, with 11t T1 motor, both high end novak ESCs, exact same cells, and he smokes me in a drag race and top speed. Silly.

Of course there are variables like traction and gearing, but his, just seems... so much more, responsive and quicker. At any speed.

Troll

[momosport]

I love my FT TC3. can't wait for the rain to stop and onroad to start up again. not much in the way of heavy upgrades, just springs and shock oil.

I also have a Team TC3 that I converted to rally. Its torn down, but I hope to have it rolling soon.

Here is my question. Im looking for a 3rd TC3. I would prefer a rollin chassis TC3, more or less out of the box ( no fancy IRS stuff etc, Box stock. Its going to get a conversion of a different sorts, but I haven't been able to find many. Id like to keep it fairly cheap, so if anyone is looking to get rid of one, or perhaps has a good rolling chassis FT or even a Team that has upgrades. Please PM me and let me know. I don't have alot of $$ but perhaps a trade is possible. Please no RTR kits, Team kits or FT kits only.

Let me know. I'll try and get my TC3 posted up soon.
Here is my setup:

FT TC3
Hitec Digi steering servo
red springs front
Gold springs rear
Novak C2 esc
Futaba radio gear
Banzai Stock motor (P2k can)


MOmo

[jasonw]

Well from what I am reading it would seem I was screwd. I purchased a factory team TC3 RTR a couple of weeks ago. Hmmmm mine was 165$ came out to $308 with a battery. The guy at the LHS said it was the fatory team TC3. How can I tell?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

well, look for the blue stuff..blue mip cvds, blue screw kit, blue motor plates/ heatsinks..etc..

-A. Swift

[FSU427P]

you'll also notice that the chassis color is slightly different then that of the normal non FT TC3. On the normal TC3 the chassis is just made of composite and is nearly black in color. On the FT TC3 the chassis is a lighter gray color and is made of carbon graphite. The FT chassis also has much less flex than the composite normal TC3 chassis. Hope that helps you out.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by mochunk
That's pretty lame.

Ok fine, it fits the chassis, but still, how is it supposed to mount?

I concur, it just doesn't fit anywhere on the front of the motor, the screws are not long enough.

Oh well, back on ebay it goes once the original auction is taken down :)

I actually just saw that SD an hour ago, looks nice. A bit pricy though.

I'm not sure how I feel about shaft drive now anyways, Seems to suck a lot of energy. Gearing aside, my buddies KX-one, with a 13t T1 motor, and my tc3, with 11t T1 motor, both high end novak ESCs, exact same cells, and he smokes me in a drag race and top speed. Silly.

Of course there are variables like traction and gearing, but his, just seems... so much more, responsive and quicker. At any speed.

Troll

It will fit the stock chassis as well...the heatsink mount in between the motor and the motor mounting cam. Just get some longer 3mm screws to mount them.

I don't think the SD is pricey...at around $300.00 + $330.00 is very reasonable especially when you're getting the silver woven graphite and endless tuniing posibilities..more tunable than the FT-TC3.

[FSU427P]

even when I put long enough screws in there the motor becomes too longfor the chassis. Oh well, I guess I'll just wait for my IRS chassis

[mochunk]

Right. I test fit it with it between the cam and motor, and right, it hits the wall between the motor section, and the electronics section. Sure you could cut that out, but that's silly. Bad enough I hacked in a super rooster sideways and cut out part of the middle bracing.

Troll

[jasonw]

Well the only real blue I know of on the car is the wheel nuts. The chasis is grey in color though. hmmm.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Then it's most likely a Racer Kit.

[FSU427P]

I believed you were hosed. Sorry about that.

[FSU427P]

no I would definitely NOT cut the chassis just to put in that heasink. I run a 9x2 reedy Ti and it doesn't heat up too much as is. I would never compromise the structural integrity of the chassis for something like that.

[jasonw]

Well I guess I was not realy "hosed" but rather miss informed. Like I said before tax I got the RTR car for $165 Even if I knew it was the racer kit I still would have purchased it. the TC3 absolutly rocks

[FSU427P]

I agree with that statement. The TC3 rules over all. Good call

[mochunk]

Originally posted by FSU427P
no I would definitely NOT cut the chassis just to put in that heasink. I run a 9x2 reedy Ti and it doesn't heat up too much as is. I would never compromise the structural integrity of the chassis for something like that.

I hardly think cutting out a small section of the wall between the motor section, and the electronics section, would compromise structural integrity. :) I did however cut out part of the middle bracing to fit my ESC. But even then, if I hit something hard enough to crack it there, everything else is breaking too :) I have the 11tx2 TI motor as well, so I guess it's a possibilty ;) Nutty little motor.

Troll

[jkerr0043]

When he's talking about the structural integrity he's not talking about it breaking under and impact, he's talking about chassis flex that can affect the car's handling. You have to be carefull where you mill out these chassis or you could end up with a car that flexes like a Pro 3.

[Dingus]

The stock chassis flexes like a "U" anyway. Even with a lot of milling of the center spine and other areas, there is still about the same amount of twist flex as before.

Like a lot of Associated products, the TC3 is stronger than it needs to be and (in the FT version) still underweight.

[FSU427P]

thank you for defending my structural integrity meaning.
You can mill out certain parts of the chassis, but for the most part ribs and other pieces that look odd on the chassis are there for a reason.
Personally I like the IRS chassis. I am planning on getting one soon and I have driven and 'tested' one that a friend of mine has. That chassis is the most solid piece of woven graphite I have ever seen, which is probably why it sells for so much $$$. It also helps that the chassis just looks killer too!

[Dingus]

Uh, almost all the pros are milling out the center spine to move the batts more inboard myself included.

The IRS chassis is pretty, but that's about it. It's the same layout and is not much if at all stiffer than the original chassis. Waste of money IMHO.

If you wanna drop some dough and at least get a car that wil perform better, look into the Warpspeed Demon. They moved the batts closer to the shaft, added a true top deck, and move the batts to the other side of the car.

[jkerr0043]

I agree with dingus on that one. I ran my milled out chassis for the first time today and the trasnitioning from side to side was amazing. It was acually more than I expected so I had to make some changes to handle the way it moved from side to side. The Warpspeed does the same thing but moves the batts to the other side as well as in toward the drive shaft. That helps with the torque steer problem. I just wish the damn thing wasn't $200:mad:

[Dingus]

The transitioning is much faster with the milled chassis.

The Warpspeed chassis moves the batts to the other side not for torque steer but rather to get the overall weight bias to the other side of the car. ROAR only allows clockwise racing in TC o you may as well have the heavier side of the car on the inside.

The Warpspeed owner is a regular poster on rctech and has explained this several times.

I ran a D5 Flatliner 10x1 yesterday and I have still yet to see any noticeable torque steer. I've said this all along. Maybe I'm smooth on the throttle and maybe I naturally adjust to it, but that's a big difference in motor from a 19t. My point, if your car is not tracking straight, you need to do some more work on something else before blaming torque steer.

[mochunk]

Frankly, I don't really care. I don't race the car. I just like to beat the hell out of it. Which is why I got the most common, cheap car. So when I break it, I can get parts cheaply in quickly.

Troll

[Rdub202]

can someone hit me up with a link for that warpspeed chassis.

[Dingus]

Don't think they have site as of yet.

Look on the tc3 thread at rctech.net for the guys email. Should be back a few pages from the last post.

[jeepboy109]

how fast does the electric tc3 go???/
i have a friend witha fourmula 1 dat goes 40 mph i want to smoke him in a race

[mochunk]

Originally posted by jeepboy109
how fast does the electric tc3 go???/
i have a friend witha fourmula 1 dat goes 40 mph i want to smoke him in a race

That depends on how much you're willing to spend on electronics. I'm running an 11t TI motor with decent gearing and I'm pretty sure I'm a hair over 40.

Troll

[Rdub202]

JEEPBOY-if u want to smoke him in a drag get a fantom 7t and 3300s and ull go like 50-55.

[jeepboy109]

can u get the fantom in canada??? 50-55 oo thats sounds ok

[Rdub202]

idk if u can get em in canada but i just looked a the mag and it says upwards of 55 so like 55 or more with GP3300's so u would whoop him good!

[jasonw]

Well I seem to have a little problem now with my TC3. I took a pretty good hit yesterday "Full speed head on into a poll" Anyway I noticed a clicking sound started coming from it you know the tell tail sign of a broken gear or somthing stuck in the teeth. I disasembled the front and rear gear case and checked the gears and cheked the spur and pinion and everythign still looks band new. Any ideas of what the clicking sound could be. seems to get louder and faster as the RPM's are raised. Also I tore down the suspention on the pasenger front side "that hit the poll" Everything checked out ok but when I put it back together I noticed there are no more threads were the set screw holds the steering assembly on the suspention arm. Anyone els have problems with these set screws? Can I fix it with out replacing the arm? Thankx a bunch

[Rdub202]

does ne one use the warpspeed chassis? is that ne good? is it the best aftermarket chassis? ((i will be running on carpet {[larrys in MI]**))

[Stampeed2]

hey guys im new to this forum i just placed an order for a rtr tc3 and cant wait to get it this is my first on road RC i also orderd some 26mm hpi 5 spoke wheels im just hoping they will fit anyone know if they will? anyways just wanted to say hey..

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Originally posted by jasonw
Well I seem to have a little problem now with my TC3. I took a pretty good hit yesterday "Full speed head on into a poll" Anyway I noticed a clicking sound started coming from it you know the tell tail sign of a broken gear or somthing stuck in the teeth. I disasembled the front and rear gear case and checked the gears and cheked the spur and pinion and everythign still looks band new. Any ideas of what the clicking sound could be. seems to get louder and faster as the RPM's are raised. Also I tore down the suspention on the pasenger front side "that hit the poll" Everything checked out ok but when I put it back together I noticed there are no more threads were the set screw holds the steering assembly on the suspention arm. Anyone els have problems with these set screws? Can I fix it with out replacing the arm? Thankx a bunch

I had the same "problems" but I never figured out what it was. During high speeds and breaking it would make this really annoying squealing sound. I checked everywhere I never found the problem, but I tore the whole car down for a complete rebuild and the "problem" went away.

[speedydave]

Did you rebuild the diffs when you rebuilt the car? A high pitched squealing is usually the diff slipping...

[jasonw]

I have not taken it out yet sence the tear down. My noin is not sqweeling it is more like a small rock stuck in a gear "clicking" The gears all look great. I realy would like to get this fixt as I am scheduled to race the car this coming week and dont want to ruin it.

[FSU427P]

I've never experienced anything like that with my TC3. Maybe you should take it to your LHS and let them hear it as you run it. Hopefully they can figure out the solution. Good luck.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by jasonw
Well I seem to have a little problem now with my TC3. I took a pretty good hit yesterday "Full speed head on into a poll" Anyway I noticed a clicking sound started coming from it you know the tell tail sign of a broken gear or somthing stuck in the teeth. I disasembled the front and rear gear case and checked the gears and cheked the spur and pinion and everythign still looks band new. Any ideas of what the clicking sound could be. seems to get louder and faster as the RPM's are raised. Also I tore down the suspention on the pasenger front side "that hit the poll" Everything checked out ok but when I put it back together I noticed there are no more threads were the set screw holds the steering assembly on the suspention arm. Anyone els have problems with these set screws? Can I fix it with out replacing the arm? Thankx a bunch

Check the wheels and make sure that something is not stuck. Could just be the wheel smacking something. Aslo check the CVDs, make sure that nothing touches them. If you use swaybars, it could be that the swaybar got knocked into contact with the CVD

[jasonw]

Well after the tear down I finaly got the rear end put back together. I took it out for a test in the drivway and the noise was gone. Go figure huh? I was geting realy bad inside tire wear so I adjusted the caster and camber?????? so the tires would wear more evenly. Did I make the right adjustment?

[mab_man20]

jasonw: Sounds like you have a notch in your diff out drive. Check the entire drive train (everything from the left front tire to the right rear)


From what i have heard is the worpspeed demon is an increadable chassis. It does not flex at all and the battery move makes a huge difference on the large sweepers on clockwise tracks.

[Burnout]

Well I'm finally done building the car. Its more like done sometime last week. Took me 4 days to complete. Don't get me wrong, I'm no dumb newbie, it was being built before and after work :D .

All I could say is wow, I love this car. Now I understand why this car is so played out. It went together smoothly and I'm surprised how much AE has improved in their instructions because the last kit I built from AE was the original RC10T.

Now I realize just how great the FT is. It never occurred to me that there is so many better things compared to the Racer and Team kits. It definitely made the Team and especially the Racer kit look totally watered down. So if anyone you thinking about getting a TC3, (IMO :D ) Factory Team is the only way to go.

Well here are some pics of my 'super narrowed' FT TC3...:rolleyes: . Biggest complaint? Probably the stupid wheel nuts. Seems like it needs to be held on with super glue. I gotta pick me up some low profile nuts.

[Burnout]

They are RPM Invader 22mm dyable wheels wrapped with Kawada meduim 22mm tires. Oh yes, I sure love my s narrows and the best thing is noone wants them anymore!

[Burnout]

Its going to take me a while to get this car running. I still need a real ESC and radio and batteries.

[Burnout]

Nomore pics! Just how much a person can take seeing another TC3?!

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Originally posted by Burnout
They are RPM Invader 22mm dyable wheels wrapped with Kawada meduim 22mm tires. Oh yes, I sure love my s narrows and the best thing is noone wants them anymore!

They're so skinny!

[adam lancia]

hey all,

i'm the new owner of a TC3 and i have a couple of questions. first, i'm going to be racing on an semi prepared, medium sized outdoor track (asphalt) and was wondering what tires (brand, size, compound) will work well with the stock setup? i'll be racing mod with a corvette c5-r body. also, how helpful is the front one-way on a short track? does the same iideology from off-road apply that it will handle more like a 2wd? thanks for any replies,

adam

[Stampeed2]

I have a question i have a rtr tc3 and i was wondering if i get a LRP Super Reverse will it fit perfectly in the spot where the LRP Runner is???or will i have to modify to make it fit???Also which turn motor would be good with the stock gearing i mostly bash but i do race sometimes...Thanks for any help

[LearjetMinako]

Yes, the LRP Super /w Reverse, is a direct fit to the LRP runner in the rtr TC3. I have had one for over 2 years now and it still keeps on going.

Which motor is best for the stock gearing, depends on the track. But a motor with turns from 16 to 27 should go into that gearing ratio.

[Stampeed2]

ok thanks alot for the help

[Stampeed2]

i have another question if i wanted to upgrade my rtr am radio to a Fm radio what would be the cheapest setup i could get from tower?also what all what i need and how hard is it to operate a fm radio setup cause it seems that they have alot more controls than the am that im use to?And would my servo work with the fm radio setup???thanks for any help

[Stampeed2]

ok i want to get the LRP Phaser fm receiver if i get this what else do i need to go with it??????

[LearjetMinako]

If you're thinking of a FM radio, I'll go with a JR XR-3 or better yet the new XS-3 FM Radio. I've used JR radios since 1995. I'd never go with another radio unless it proves its worth. I run all my cars with a JR XR-3 and never had a real problem with it, plus JR aircraft radios too.

Mostly FM radios are computrized memory, they are not that all real hard to understand and setup. The JR computer radios are a bit hard to get uses to, but as soon as you understand the 4 button functions. You'll be flying through the setup as if you had it for years on end.

Almost all servos will work with any radio system, so don't worry about that. Recommend not to use Hitec or Futuba servos, they strip gears too easily for me. I use the JR 270 servos.

As for the LRP Phaser FM receiver, I had never tried it or owned one. I stick with the receiver that came with or is best with the radio system. Just make sure that the radio and receiver is a FM system or both are AM system together.

[HauntedMyst]

I agree with Lear that XR3 or the newer Xr3i are excellent choices, I'll disagree with him on how hard they are to get used to. The XR3 is easy to understand if you just spend a few minutes with them.


Adam,

Our track is a parking lot paved 3 years ago. We blow it off and there is no prepping (soda water) sprayed on it. The best tires I've found are the soft GS Medial Pro Insertless Touring Car tires for spring and fall, mediums in the heat of summer, or the Losi Yellow treaded (not sure of the number but its a funky tread pattern) with HPI Yellow rounded inserts, soft in back, medium in front. Better yet, ask the guys at your track what works best.

As for the one way, I doubt it would be benefitial to you. It removes having any front brakes and is best suited to a large sweeping track where you don't use brakes much.

[adam lancia]

thanks HauntedMyst...i appreciate the info. i actually talked to a couple of the guys that race there and they will be spraying it this year. they used foams last year but i'm worried about tire wear with that particular route. what's your opinion on the sorex tires? they seem to be priced really well (big issue since i'm a (broke) college student) and their product descriptions are pretty detailed as to how they (company's point of view) stack up against the competition. are the aluminum shocks worth the cash? i have the racer kit with the composite shock bodies and want to know if there will be a large difference in the consistency of the shock. thanks again for your help,

adam

[jkerr0043]

You may want to look at Take-off CS27 pre mounts. They work well on most surfaces and you can get a set of tires, and inserts, pre mounted on cross wheels for +/- $35 bucks. Foams are a PITA. Unless you really have to run them to be competitive at your particular track, stay away from them.

[adam lancia]

thanks jkerr...where can i order the take-off's from? are they at stormer? thanks again,

adam

[jkerr0043]

Go to www.speedtechrc.com or www.**************. Both have good prices.

[jkerr0043]

I wonder why ************** wouldn't come up as a link.

[HauntedMyst]

adam,
I can't answer if the aluminum shocks are worth the cash over the composites because I've never run the composites. I can say the threaded shocks are worth every cent. It's so nice to never have to deal with the spacers. I've never had a problem with an aluminum shock from Associated. They work great and last for a very long time.

[FSU427P]

Agreed there. My kit (racer) started out with the composite shocks, and then I upgraded to the FT threaded shock set. What a difference! Adjusting with the composite pieces was such a pain in the neck, especially in race situations when quick changes were crucial to extra practice time. The threaded shocks are nearly bullit-proof, much like everything else Associated builds. I say they're worth the investment.

[civicracer]

yestarday at my local indoor track we had an endurance meeting with all drivers set up into teams of 5 it was great fun until teh point where 2 of our cars gave up leaving us with 3 then a cat 3000 broke his wishbone taking us down to 2. my tc3 was running a 12x1 and running on 3000nimhs and we would keep it on for 30 mins then sum1 else put their car on. changing batteries when others went flat. When i returned home after running like this 4 times. I notcied that my brushes edges had cracked at the tips. Does anybody know why this could have happened. I'm running The FTtc3 with a 24 tooth pinion and the standard spur gear that coems with it and a mtroniks digi sprint speedo. P.S the braking is a bit harsh could this be a factor

[NTC3Fan]

Where can one find brand new FT TC3's besides Tower at a good price and willing to ship to South Africa?

cheers!!

[adam lancia]

civicracer: the reason your brushes cracked was probably because the motor was run hard for a few battery packs in a row causing the motor to get pretty hot. when the brushes heat up like that, they get more brittle and crack easier. check your comm for any damage they may have done...it may need a cut.

adam

[civicracer]

Thanks i thought that could well be the problem and the comm appears to need skimming as it appears to be a bit burnt

[Grizzbob]

Yup, I'd bet it really needs skimming...;)

[itedin]

My first post on RCZ. Am new to RC cars, sorta. Actually, am getting back into hobby after a 15 year break.

I just got my first TC3 new from www.hobbypeople.net.

General Q: with cover on, lots-uh dirt on components. I noticed in alot of vid's on this site people run w/out car cover. I did and noticed a lot less dirt. Are there 'undercovers' for TC3 available for less dirt on components? If so, what about heating, won't this be a problem? What do YOU do to reduce dirt build up?

Am awaiting a Lehner 4200 / Warrior 7018 setup to put in this baby!

Cheers,
John

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Where can one find brand new FT TC3's besides Tower at a good price and willing to ship to South Africa?

cheers!!

anyone???

[jkerr0043]

Don't run on dirty surfaces. Personally my TC3 never sees anything but a race track. If you're not racing, it's going to get dirty. But you should never run with out a body. The dirt that builds up is a lot less damagin than flipping or crashing and having your exposed electronics sliding on the ground.

[handy_john]

on a 4wheel drive car all tires must be same size.

[itedin]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
Don't run on dirty surfaces. Personally my TC3 never sees anything but a race track. If you're not racing, it's going to get dirty. But you should never run with out a body. The dirt that builds up is a lot less damagin than flipping or crashing and having your exposed electronics sliding on the ground.

Good rule of thumb I guess to not drive with body, but much less dirt gets on components when it's off. But I'm new, and I'm driving it alot on streets. Why don't they have body's that will cover components and not wheels for the TC3, something like the RC10T3. The TC3 is so darn popular you think somebody would. Come race time, then we can put the good lookin body's back on.

[jkerr0043]

The TC3 isn't an open wheel car like the T3 or a buggie. It's designed to be encolsed in a road car type body. If you were to seal it with an under body, you wouldn't get the cooling effect you need for your electronics. Most ESC's need air flow to keep them and the motor cool.

[itedin]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
The TC3 isn't an open wheel car like the T3 or a buggie. It's designed to be encolsed in a road car type body. If you were to seal it with an under body, you wouldn't get the cooling effect you need for your electronics. Most ESC's need air flow to keep them and the motor cool.

When I saw postings for these 'undercovers' for the TC3, it looks like there would be heating issues, specially with the brushless systems.

The T3 body's look well vented. We need something like this for the TC3. Not for racing necessarily, but to reduce dirt, and I think it would look kinda cool. Maybe there is something out there, and I'm hoping somebody has seen one, or has some suggestions.

[NTC3Fan]

Well i just ordered some new stuff for my TC3 "Racer"
Decided to get the Graphite set, the composite was trashed anyway..

also had to get threaded shocks... got tired of the spacers...
some blue turnbuckles for looksand so other blue stuff.. :-)

Hope to run the car now in winter when i cant run my Team NTC3..

BTW.... has anyone had any luck with running aluminium stuff on their cars like the arms or chassis???
saw some nice stuff but dunno if it will help performance??

Cheers!!

[jkerr0043]

Not only is that stuff heavier, but things like knuckles and arms are made to break so you don't send shock to other, more costly things like chassis and servos when you crash. If you get the aluminum ones, if they don't bend (I've seen that too) they send the force of a crash into the turn buckles, on into things like servos and chassis parts and they break. Not good. I'd stay away from any aliminum suspension.

[SARacer]

hey NTC3Fan, where do you race in SA?
I also live there.

[iracercs]

Hi Everyone
We have a place where we race on a dirt oval and call the class 4wd Wedgey. Most of us use a TC3 and you can't believe how fast these cars are.We use Parma or Bolink wedge bodies and Jaco purple foam tires.

If any of you are in PA. look us up and come have some fun. The cars are most likely the most popular class at the race track.

Techman Jeff

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by SARacer
hey NTC3Fan, where do you race in SA?
I also live there.

Well the TC3 is in a restoration phase at the moment..
Waiting on the goods to come from Tower Hobbies...
The Team NTC3 - i run at the nitro track in Cape Town ( Theo Marais Park)
I'm going tomorrow to go run the car hopefully its not to cold otherwise i cant..

Cheers dude
Bevan

[zooyork155]

I've got a factory team and have noticed a grinding noise when I hit the brakes at high speed. I thought it might just be the chassis scraping on the ground but that's not the case. Has anyone else experienced this problem??

Im using a Novak Dually ESC if that makes any difference.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Originally posted by zooyork155
I've got a factory team and have noticed a grinding noise when I hit the brakes at high speed. I thought it might just be the chassis scraping on the ground but that's not the case. Has anyone else experienced this problem??

Im using a Novak Dually ESC if that makes any difference.

Read back 3-4 pages. I had the same problem earlier.

[ubooze]

Hey everybody


I have a TC3 running a Duratrax Blast reversible and a Green Machine. After pegging the throttle to the fullest and letting off, the car kinda starts sliding when the ESC brakes. It goes along a straigh lkine with throttle full and once you release, the nose goes to the left. It almost looks as if the front left tire was catching or too low. The more worn the tires, the greater the slide. Do you know anything that could fix this?


Next question is would it be possible to custom fabricate a carbon fiber chasis with a dremel and countersinks? Would it be that hard to make it use just a CF plate and cutting it in the appropriate shape?

[FSU427P]

Your slide problem could be the result of some friction on the left side of the diff case where the outdrive comes out. If you hone out the outdrive hole on the case a little bit, that might help your problem. It could also be the diff itself, recheck it for proper spin and tightness.

As for your carbon question, I would imagine that you could do it, but it would be a lot of work. IRS and some other company make a carbon fiber chassis set for the TC3, kinda pricy though. I think the Factory Team carbon graphite tub chassis is the best way to go, and the most inexpensive.

[ubooze]

The only problem I could see with the CF is trying to find stand-offs for the center spline and a motor-mount for the cam.

Thanks for the help with the slide, i need to tune this car since it is so poorly taken care of.

[jkerr0043]

You may also have a severe case of tweak. check the tweak on the car and the shock lengths. Do you have a one way in the car?

[ubooze]

No, I don't have a one way, but shocks may be a problem since I changed them a while ago.

Does anyone know where a motor mount and spacers could be purchased for a carbon fiber chasis?

Is ABS-Composites(I think thats the name) like the only place to buy sheets?

[mochunk]

Originally posted by FSU427P

As for your carbon question, I would imagine that you could do it, but it would be a lot of work. IRS and some other company make a carbon fiber chassis set for the TC3, kinda pricy though. I think the Factory Team carbon graphite tub chassis is the best way to go, and the most inexpensive.

The President of Penguin RC has told me they were in development of a tc3 chassis as well. But I haven't heard about it in months.

Troll

[NTC3Fan]

yeah!!! got my new parts for my TC3
How much lighter does the full graphite set make the TC3?
should be done by tonight..

BTW... what stock motors are u guys running, just out of interest..

Cheers

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Right now, I'm running a Monster Stock Pro. It's really impressive for a large open track.

[jkerr0043]

Put some heavier springs on the Monster Pro and you'll be impressed with it on the smaller tight tracks too:)

[tc3punk]

HELP!!!

after snapping my 3rd rear cvd in less than a week, I need something stronger...

does anyone know the url of the site with titanium parts (including cvd shafts) for tc3?

bah!
that's the power of bl for ya:rolleyes:

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Try a universal. They are better for torque displacement.

[NewToNitro]

hey guys i got OWNED last night at the track. Everyone else has factory team cars and monster stock motors. I have a racer with P2k. They were FLYING past me on the straight. Plus they had their cars dialed. What FT parts should i get? I was thinking maybe the shocks so i can adjust a little more. Other then that practice practice practice :) and maybe copying their setup :)

[rcracerguy]

I just got a used Team TC3 and the stearing is realy twitchy. I've tried a couple servos and that didn't help. Is there someing that could be wore or should I change something on the setup? Any answers would help.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Check the steering rack and bushings. Clean it out and leave the bushings dry.

[rcracerguy]

I'll try it but I'm sure there is something more. I plan on racing tomarrow so maybe someone can help me figure it out.

[jay272]

I had the same problem rcguy. For a year I used the tc3 cause that's what everybody used at my track. For that whole year I always broke parts, got lapped, and never even won a c-main. I almost gave up racing until I got an Xray.

Get an Xray (or anything other that a TC3.............problem solved!!!!

[smoothxxxs]

Man you put down a lot of cars! Yeah check the steering rack, if the nuts are too tight then the steering will be rather slow. I upgraded to bearings and it was one of the best things you can do for the steering rack.

[rcracerguy]

Well something must have aleast helped alittle. I've never ran the car before and never raced on ashpalt. I went racing today and got 5th in the A Main out of 18 cars. So I'm pleased with the way it turned out. Only 1 laps less the the top car. Thanks for the info.

[itedin]

Hi guys. I got my first TC3 not too long ago, was practicing in street around cones and rolled it. Now when I trottle, turning it to the right slows it down, and too the left speeds it up. Suggestions on what this is? Probably the axle somewhere? Please use Laymann's terms, as this will be my first time taking this thing apart. Many thanks.

John

[xtreme]

Just a quick question,

I have a used TC3 Racer/Factory (mixed parts) that has the full graphite package installed. Whoever owned it before me was not careful when screwing things together and seems to have stripped a lot of the screw holes in the graphite.

Is there any way to save this stuff? Does anyone have a way to fix the stripped holes without replacing all of the components?

[adam lancia]

you could try filling the hole with JB weld and then drill and retap the hole....or you can put a few drops of CA into the hole and screw the screw in right after it. the JB weld option is a more permenant fix. oh yeah, you could also use a heli coil to fix it. i'm not sure if they make really small sizes though....

adam

[Racin Rev]

xtreme,

WARNING! WARNING! Do NOT use the superglue trick unless you have steel screws. Most of the ones for the TC3 are alum. You will snap those suckers right off leaving you with a screw head and a piece of expensive junk! Ask me how I know this? :( :eek:
If you replace the alum for steel (be sure, use the magnet) you might be able to pull it off. You don't need to use the steel screw permenantly, just to set the glue.

The JB Weld idea sounds like it would yield much better results if being more involved and expensive.

[HauntedMyst]

Actually, I put a dab of CA glue in all the time with no problems. I tried the route of placing the dab then screwing it in right away and that was ok. Then I tried placing a dab of CA on the hole, leaving it and then screwing the screw in 30 minutes later and haven't had any problems with it. It is best if you retap the hole with a steel screw before you use the aluminum screw though.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by jay272
I had the same problem rcguy. For a year I used the tc3 cause that's what everybody used at my track. For that whole year I always broke parts, got lapped, and never even won a c-main. I almost gave up racing until I got an Xray.

Get an Xray (or anything other that a TC3.............problem solved!!!!

Since the TC3 always kicks the Xrays ass at top levels of competition, I doubt the problem is with the TC3. I doubt the TC3 fit your driving style. I've owned 4 xrays and 4 tc3s and they are both nice cars, the TC3 is just easier to set up to win for most people. As nice as the Xray is, its not with out it's faults. The front bumper mounts are easy to break, as are the front arms and aluminum axles. The drive train is easy to foul on a parking lot track and working on the diffs means major disassembly of the car. Xray makes beautiful cars, it would be interesting to see what they could do with a totally new design.

[FSU427P]

Personally I would like to see XRAY put some of that "luxury" into a shaft driven car. I think they would have a stable market for it.

[richsilv]

I've got a NTC3 and am looking to replace the Plastic nuts with "non-plastic" ones...

(I know this was posted at least a year ago, but that thread lead to someone suggesting they had replacements, but not mentioning how or where to get them... and for some reason, I cannot send e-mail to any members...)

Tee and Syme71... Did you ever post what and where you found nuts?

I've tried 4-40 nylocks, but the heads are too big and interfere with the movement of the shock... I havent found any 4-40 nylocs with the smaller heads...

Thanx

[Marines]

Ive been thinking of buying MIP blue titanium CVD's for my electric TC3...is it worth 30$ and how much are they going to affect performance.:confused:

[Cube]

Does anyone have any blue aluminium rings inbetween their ball bearings in their uprights? I found one in my FT TC3(bought used).

[RC10's]

I just bought a used (barely) FT TC3. I am new to the on-road thing and was wondering what are your your tires of choice for, carpet, smooth blacktop, and street. Thanks guys.

[tl01boi]

time to welcome me to the tc3 thread i just got a tc3 with a 15 turn fantom motor novak dually esc that is opened up jr racing servo futabu jr radio rally conversion kit the problem is it is rusty in the upper part where the screws are but im replacing it and it needs new shocks all around

[RC10's]

Does this mean you wont be TlO1 boy anymore? TC3 boy now? thats a good change...

[tl01boi]

lol naw i think ill just keep using this screen name since the tl01 was my first hobby class rc

[tl01boi]

lol naw i think ill just keep using this screen name since the tl01 was my first hobby class rc

[tl01boi]

sorry double post

[jasonw]

Here are 2 pictures of my bone stock RTR TC3 Upgrades to come soon but the car hauls a$$ just the way it is. this is my fastest car.
http://www.caltel.com/~jasonw/Images/rc/temp/tc31.jpg
http://www.caltel.com/~jasonw/Images/rc/temp/tc3.jpg

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Well, dump that Power 19 and get Monster Pro. Now THAT thing hauls major ass.

[Rdub202]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
Put some heavier springs on the Monster Pro and you'll be impressed with it on the smaller tight tracks too:)

jkerr what springs are you running?

-Ryan

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Whoa. I bent 3 Lunsford Titanium tie rods today. Theres this really tight U-turn at the end of the straight away, I missed it like 3 times either coming into it too soon or too late.

[adam lancia]

you're an animal audi!!!! that's a record i think

adam

[offroader]

Hey guys, I had my Factory TC3 out for the first time today (bought it used) at our opening points race of the season. In the first qualifier I broke both front arms, I replaced them and in the second qualifier I broke another front arm. What can I do to prevent that (aside from driving better)? Is there a certain type or brand that is stronger than others or do I just need to stock a bunch of extras all the time?

Also what other parts should I keep extras on hand of? What seems to break most often?


Thanks

[tl01boi]

hmm u could try some aluminum arms all around:)

[Grizzbob]

No, bad idea. Aluminum arms would stop the breakage, but instead of breaking, they would bend, & screw up your car's suspension geometry(which means it won't handle right), & it would be VERY difficult to bend them back to the exact shape needed to correct that. However, there are a few products out there that can help protect the suspension arms. One is Bud's Racing Products'(BRP) wide front bumper which bolts onto the stock bumper, & extends out enough to reduce the hits that can damage the front arms. Another(& one I prefer) is RPM's newer front bumper that completely replaces the original & is equally wide(& seems to be tougher than the BRP one). I also like Trinity's foam bumper, though that's more a protection for the body than anything else. The other thing I'd recommend(& I don't want to sound condescending here) is to slow down & try harder not to hit stuff, with some practice you should be able to smooth out your driving & stay away from those barriers & other cars(remember clean is fast).....:D

[RC10's]

If RPM makes arms (i dont know if they do) that would be the way to go because RPM products are awesome. Aluminum is not the way to go because something else is just gonna break. What kind of motors are you guys running for mod class and with what pinions?

[HauntedMyst]

RPM doesn't make any arms for the tc3 unfortunately. I personally like both the Buds and the RPM front bumper. I like the RPM because its tough, however, the Bud's can be lightened to your specs.


One good note is, I had an HPI Saleen 7 body and it won't fit my NTC3 because of the low sides, so I tried mounting it on my eTC3 and it fits like a glove! No need for spacers to widen out the wheels. My track lets you run any body you like so I would much rather run a Saleen then a Stratus!

[chance]

I've been wanting to try the S7 on an electric to see how it looked. No one around my way has one and I didn't want to order one just to find out it was too wide. I was thinking the extra width would give it an over turned boat look. Could you post pictures, please?

[mab_man20]

Going back to what Gizzbob said, try running a few races doing everything you can to NOT crash. Go slow, take the turns a little wide (but still in the line) and concentrate on not crashing.

Recently one of the tracks i race at had a "no marshall" race. If you crashed and could not continue then you were removed from the track. Some guys went out really fast and some concentrated on being really smooth and avoiding traffic. At the half way mark all but 1 of the "fast" guys was out and 4 of the slower guys (i was one of the slower guys). After another minute 2 other slow guys dropped out due to traffic, and i found myself only half a lap down from the "fast" guy. I picked up the pace a little making sure not to hit anything and i pulled to within a few feet of him, but i was not able to get by him. He finished about 10 feet ahead of me. We both finished with better times than we had in the mains.

The moral of the story is everytime you crash you lose at least 4 seconds. On most tracks thats about a third of a lap. So next time you race think about how much time your losing by going 6 inches wide vs. taking the turn tight and parking it. Plus you save a lot on broken parts. :D

[NTC3Fan]

I learned that lesson....
Our local track has a banking in T1 with a board around the outside....
I always thought i could take it flat out...
so when i tried it the car fishtailed into the board flipping it into the air.....
I also used to really attack the curbs which would just throw the car somewhere,,,
Funny thing is i take T1 much slower now... but my times are waaay faster and i use less curb..

[HauntedMyst]

http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/S7onTC3.jpg

[NTC3Fan]

Schweet lookin S7......
i had the same problem at first when fitting my lola body...
the exhaust was hitting the body...

[NTC3Fan]

well finished redoing my TC3 from scratch....
Replaced it with a full Graphite parts...
Blue Screw Set
New Bearings.
Also decided to try the rear shock mount on the front...
Used the old composite one in front

Threaded Shocks to still be done... ( dont feel like building em now :-) )
Now i'm decideding on 2 things here...
ESC/Motor

Whats a good ESC to go racing fully...
Also i dunno weather to go stock/mod motors....

Which stock/ mod motors are good...
The Track is a fast type.. but with a small slow infield section..

Anyway heres a pic of the car at the mo...
Wish it would stay that clean..

http://home.worldonline.co.za/~20149680/Pictures/TC3/Front-Rear%20Shock%20Towers.JPG

[mab_man20]

There are a lot of great ECS's out there. I would reccomend either the GM v-12 xcs (or whatever the letters are), the novak c2, or the LRP quantum. They will all be more than you will ever need.

As much as i hate trinity, sometimes they make something great. In this case im talking about the Monster Stock Pro. Killer motor, i gear it at 72/24 for a 100' straight and a tight in field, you can take it from there. Also use the trinity "99" crosscut brushes.

Modified go with the new reedy Kr or the D5. Cant go wrong with either. Both already have wins at big races.

Unless your running a one-way i would not reccomend the rear tower up front. It actually dials out some traction gained from the one-way.

Good luck

[jkerr0043]

I like my Novak GT7 ESC. In fact I have a brand new one sitting next to me for my new XXXS (Please, don't lynch me guys!) Yes I went to the dark side and got a Losi:eek:

[adam lancia]

about the gt7....i ran one in my T3 with a stock motor and blew up the brakes after 2 race nights (7 packs per night) and a few of the other guys at my track have had the same problem. i'm trading it for an lrp 7.1 when i get it back from novak. i'm not trying to disuade anyone from buying one, just telling you what my experiences with it have been. i had the same problem with an lrp pro sport as well...blew the brakes in stock truck within 5 packs....

adam

[mab_man20]

Originally posted by adam lancia
about the gt7....i ran one in my T3 with a stock motor and blew up the brakes after 2 race nights (7 packs per night) and a few of the other guys at my track have had the same problem. i'm trading it for an lrp 7.1 when i get it back from novak. i'm not trying to disuade anyone from buying one, just telling you what my experiences with it have been. i had the same problem with an lrp pro sport as well...blew the brakes in stock truck within 5 packs....

adam

Stop riding the breaks!!! :p :p

j/k, i have also heard that the newer cyclones are still better than the gt7.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by mab_man20
There are a lot of great ECS's out there. I would reccomend either the GM v-12 xcs (or whatever the letters are), the novak c2, or the LRP quantum. They will all be more than you will ever need.

As much as i hate trinity, sometimes they make something great. In this case im talking about the Monster Stock Pro. Killer motor, i gear it at 72/24 for a 100' straight and a tight in field, you can take it from there. Also use the trinity "99" crosscut brushes.

Modified go with the new reedy Kr or the D5. Cant go wrong with either. Both already have wins at big races.

Unless your running a one-way i would not reccomend the rear tower up front. It actually dials out some traction gained from the one-way.

Good luck

Thnxs for the advice mab....

[SixVi6-Camaro]

yeah I had a GT7 and it lost the brakes too. I sent it to novak and got it fixed but in the mean time went back to my good ol' Cyclone 1 purple label and have had no problems. Now that I've got the novak SS on my TC3 I sold my GT7 and never even gave it another try. Now I still just stick with my two purple label C1's for my brushed electric needs.

John

[RC10's]

I have seen plenty of failures from all moajor brands of electronics. Its dissapointing to have a product you like, or see a product you like fail. Personally I like to run Tekin stuff because you can usually buy ESCs pretty cheap (since they arent made anymore) and they are very high quality, the only failure I have ever had with a Tekin was when one went swimming (but thats another story).

[offroader]

I was just wondering if anyone knows if there are any truck bodies that will fit the TC3 and where can I find them?

Thanks

[tl01boi]

well there are alot of numerous truck bodies that will fit it's juts the wheelbase that is off and u can find some bodyies at towerhobbies.com

[FSU427P]

protoform makes a lowrider chevy silverado body for the TC3

[rc man37689]

will this go 50mph?

Associated TC3 Racer w/Mercedes CLK Body
Tower Hobbies 1900mAh 7.2V 6-Cell Flat Standard
Associated Ti Modified 8T Double Motor
DuraTrax IntelliSpeed 8T Pro Racing Forward ESC
Tower Hobbies 2TXP System 3000 2-Channel AM Pistol Grip Radio.
Tower Hobbies 400 AC/DC Auto Charger

or what combo willgo 50mph or more?for under say $350
im new in electric lol i dont wanna blow it all on this.
thanx in advance!

[RC10's]

I have seen a 6 turn orion, with 3300 GP matched cells, geared to the moon go about 40 and there was smoke coming out of the ESC. 50 is not a realstic figure to want to hit, there is no real good reason for it. Your best chance at 50 is packing cells (like 10 or more) and running a brushless, but thats gonna cost about 400 just for esc motor and batterys.

[Grizzbob]

Agreed, if you really MUST hit or top 50mph, then I think your best choice is a brushless motor & ESC & as many cells as you can pack into the car. Brushed motors are really meant for controlled racing, not insane speed runs....:cool:

[tl01boi]

Originally posted by RC10's
I have seen a 6 turn orion, with 3300 GP matched cells, geared to the moon go about 40 and there was smoke coming out of the ESC. 50 is not a realstic figure to want to hit, there is no real good reason for it. Your best chance at 50 is packing cells (like 10 or more) and running a brushless, but thats gonna cost about 400 just for esc motor and batterys.

it onyl went 40 with a 6 turn motor man thats slow that guys car must of been really messed up my ta03 goes 28.9 mph with a trinity x star motor running on 6 cells so i dont see any reason why u cant hit 50 with a tc3 if u get a 8 turn motor get a quad motor for most top end

[creep]

I'll be ordering a TC3 pretty soon and was wondering if there was anything I need to know before I order. I already have a radio system from my other cars and plan on running my 10t SpeedGems2. Will the Racer kit's gearing handle it or should I order new gears with it? Do they still offer it with the Silverado body? was also going to order the alum. main shaft.

By the way this isn't going to be raced...yet. Just for street and parking lot fun at first.

[zooyork155]

I know the manual says that a 78 tooth spur is the largest you can use, but most of the setup sheets on AE's site used 100 tooth spurs. Does anyone know how they did it?

[jkerr0043]

They run 64 pitch gears. The 78 they're talking about is 48 pitch.

[rc man37689]

So will this go 50mph


Trinity 6-Cell VIS 3300 Sport Stick Pack 1 56.99
Associated TC3 Team Touring Car 1 209.99
Associated Quantum Competition 1 159.99
90511 MX-3 3CH FM 1 94102Z A4 1 104.99 =
$531.96
- $25.00(tower rebate)=
$506.96


+charger

But i think id rather get a nitro that im positive will go 50mph like the nitro fusion for under $500

[FSU427P]

I agree with that. I don't think 50mph is worth over $500 for an electric. Don't get me wrong, I love my TC3 to death, but all that speed really isn't necessary on race tracks, especially the shorter tracks.

[rc man37689]

the only rason i wanna go over 50 is to race my friends.Ill race on the street.But I think ill get a nitro for under 500

[RC10's]

the only practical way to continously hit 50 is a 2 speed nitro. I love my TC3, it does what its meant to do extremely well, but trying to push any single speed electric to 50 is diificult. And if your gonna buy batteries buy matched, its really worth it.

[tl01boi]

rc man may i ask why ur gunna spend all that money on a controller , i mean a 3 channel isn't really neccasarry

[RC10's]

it onyl went 40 with a 6 turn motor man thats slow that guys car must of been really messed up my ta03 goes 28.9 mph with a trinity x star motor running on 6 cells so i dont see any reason why u cant hit 50 with a tc3 if u get a 8 turn motor get a quad motor for most top end

the first 25 MPH is the easy part, most cars got that fast easily, its the second 25 that is very difficult, and I would like to see any car go 50 with a 6 cell and a brushed motor without smoking the ESC.

[tl01boi]

why would the esc smoke?:confused:

[AudiTT-Quattro]

High current demand. The closer the motor gets to zero RPM at any given voltage, the more current it sucks (stall current). If your ESC can't handle that, things get really expensive, really fast.

RC10 is referring to gearing. The smaller the gear ratio, the harder it is on your motor as it needs to draw more current to provide the torque to move the car. Again, if your ESC can't handle continuous stall current, you will smoke it.

[tl01boi]

OooHh is a esc that runs 300amps continous with a 12 turn limit and a max of 10 cells a good esc to run 6 cells with a 14 turn quad motor? or will it die on me lol

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Err, don't get me started on this whole ESC amerage thing. The only RELIABLE numbers defining ESC specs are the motor limit and voltage (number of cells).

With amerage, it's pretty simple. If the ESC can handle 300 amps continuous, why does it have a motor limit? There is no way a 12 turn, 14 turn, OR a 6 turn is going to draw 300 amps. Even if they can, there is no way a 6 cell pack or a 10 cell pack can source that much amperage; thus, having your battery pack as a current limiter. You CAN, however, wire 3-4 of these packs in parallel and source close to 300 Amps.

A prime example of unrealistic numbers is the DuraTrax IntelliSpeed 8T Pro Racing Forward ESC (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXU1&P=7). If that ESC can handle 1200 Amps continuous, why does it have an 8 turn limit? Again, Duratrax has continuously ignored ALL my e-mails about this. Heck, if this thing is as good as it says it is, I'll be using these in my smaller BattleBots.

Like I said before. The only RELIABLE numbers defining ESC specs are the motor limit and voltage (number of cells).

Time to shut myself up now...

Back to the topic...

OooHh is a esc that runs 300amps continous with a 12 turn limit and a max of 10 cells a good esc to run 6 cells with a 14 turn quad motor?

Whats wrong with that? You're running within the limits. It's all about gearing. Gearing, for example, 3:1 (as an extreme example) will give you a higher starting amperage (drawing more current when voltage is applied whereas gearing 6:1 will give you a lower start amperage because your motor has to do less work due to the increase in output torque.

[BigBadTahoe]

Hey everyone, I just order a rtr tc3 which as you know has the stock 19 turn in it, how fast does that make it go? If I want it to go atleast almost 40mph whats the cheapest way to do so? It seems that a 6 turn motor and an esc that will accept it are usually around $200 I have only checked Novak and LRP so far though? Help please, its my first on road car.:confused:

[tl01boi]

the stock tc3 rtr goes 14-15 mph as for going 40 mph i wouldnt know since i race stock class

[RC10's]

I am gonna say the stock RTR will push close to 25 (with a good battery), and the speed control will handle an 18 turn motor. My friend put an 18 turn speed gems 2 in his RTR and it is fairly quick probably in the 26-27 range. Again going 40 is difficult while still having a practical run time. 40 is quite possible but not necessary. These cars are built to race, thats what associated has made them to do. If you just wanna go fast go get some duratrax RTR garbage with a 2 speed thats gonna break the first time it hits a pebble on the street. I would say going in the low 30's is a practical and normal speed for a mod. I run a 10 turn and get almost 5 minutes of run time, and it goes about 30 I would say. Besides speed doesnt do any good if you cant handle it.

[LearjetMinako]

That is so true. Whats the point of going for speed if you can't control it right. I race in the roar stock class with a my TC3 Racer. I can hit 32 MPH, buts it useless when I come appoarch a turn. Now the most I'll get up to is 25 MPH.

Gear Ratios I Use:
72/18 good for a short twisty course
72/24 for a meduim size track, offers more accel.
72/26 stock gearing, good for a taste of both speed and accel.
72/28 best if there is more straight away than turns on the course
72/32 for all out speed on a oval track, not recommended on a course with short turns exceding 90 degree angles.

A good set of batteries will help get more rpm's out the motor.

I have a question. What is a good solider the I can use to hold the bars onto the battery. Because everytime I get hit hard, the bars come loose, and I lose power.

[zooyork155]

I am thinking about converting my TC3 to rally. Has anyone done this? How well does it turn out??

[RC10's]

Ive never seen it in action but I wouldnt imagine it would work to well becuase it is a fairly narrow chassis and really isnt meant to off-road well... your best bet is to get a real off-road truck or buggy like a RC10T3 or RC10B3 or B4.

for solder I use Deans which has flux in it and is actually 60/40 not 40/60 like most people think.

[randomletterz]

the first 25 MPH is the easy part, most cars got that fast easily, its the second 25 that is very difficult, and I would like to see any car go 50 with a 6 cell and a brushed motor without smoking the ESC.

ok ok fellas i hate to post this in the tc3 forum but...

GET AN RC10L3 and then talk.

i used a 7t double motor on 6 cells geared 12/93 with a super rooster. that did about 40-45-50. and it would spin the tires at 20.when i would gear it up like 22/81 it would go REALLY REALLY fast. through a parkinglot it was crazy. but my fastest setup so far on 6 cells would have to be the photon speed motor on 6 cells. yes i said photon speed(stock w/ duratrax evader) geared 35/68. it was nutz. it toped out at about 65-70. im just getting my BL working in my tc3, then it goes in the L3 on 10 cells for major speed runs. i am going to video tape it. im gonna gear it 3.5-1 on 10 cells. im hoping for like 90-95 top out speed.

[RC10's]

have you confirmed any of these speeds or are they just what you think? Im not doubting it becuase they are light cars with way less turning stuff, just curious as to the accuracy of your numbers.

[FSU427P]

It is believeable because he is using a pan car. You can achieve outrageous speed with them. I had an HPI super F1 that was clocked at 75mph with speed gems 10 single and Sanyo 3000mah matched cells. I used an LRP V7.1 esc BTW. The esc never even heated up, nor did the batteries aside from the norm. Problem was that the car needed a small airport runway to get to that speed and don't even think about turning.

[BigBadTahoe]

This is kinda off subject but I wanted to know what size bodies fit on the TC3? For example Hpi makes mostly 200mm bodies do those fit? I just want to find a corvette body that will look great on my new TC3. Oh and by the way with the stock 19t motor how high can you gear it without loosing power and gaining the highest speed possible? Also any suggestion on dos and don'ts would be great because this is my first on-road car. So I'm used to the way trucks operate, not cars. Thanks!:D :confused:

[Rdub202]

190mm bodies

[FSU427P]

Tamiya made a corvette body that went with their TAO4R chassis in a kit for a while. If you check their website, you might be able to find the body parts set. That body was 190mm. Other than that I don't know of any other 190mm corvettes.

[Grizzbob]

I'm not sure, but you might check out ProLine/Protoform's site too, I thought they at least once made a Corvette body, but I can't remember for sure or know if they still do....:cool:

[BigBadTahoe]

Ok, I have so far only found 200mm bodies by HPI, but I'll keep looking. By the way would a 24t pinion be to high for a stock 19 motor?

[Rdub202]

what do u mean u have only found 200mm hpi bodies? do u mean like at stores or like online to just check them out?

[chance]

Anybody know who makes sway bars for the TC3 that have the same shape as the AE bars. Looking something in the .06? and .07? size.
Thanks

[BigBadTahoe]

Alright I found the vette body I want on towers site but I still don't know how I should gear the pinion to get the highest top speed possible out of the 19turn stock motor? Whats the stock pinion? About 22t? Help me!:confused:

[RC10's]

I wouldnt go up more then 2 over stock. Gearing that much higher is gonna give you a few more top MPH but your low end performance will decrease drastically and your battery life too. If you want more power out of your car get an 18 turn motor (because thats the limit of your ESC) or a new motor and ESC.

[ubooze]

If anyone here owns a carbon fiber chasis, I was wondering if you could measure the thickness in inches of the plate?

[FSU427P]

Were you talking about the woven grapgite chassis, like form IRS, or were you talking about the Factory Team carbon fiber graphite chassis.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Most CF used in R/C are 3mm. (Not in inches? Don't worry, I'm Canadian so :p )

[BigBadTahoe]

If I were going to race it in a stock spec sort of class whats a good motor that I can use with the stock esc? Would it be a touring motor of some kind from trinity, or a reedy? There normally 20turns right? Would a single be the fastest?:confused: :confused: :confused:

[ubooze]

Thanks Audi for replying...... I was asking because I may try to fabricate that TC3 chasis some time, just haven't figured out anything for motor mount and aluminum parts suck a stand-off for center brace and if the chasis isn't uniform thickness, that can cause some trouble.

[Skribble]

Originally posted by RC10's
the first 25 MPH is the easy part, most cars got that fast easily, its the second 25 that is very difficult, and I would like to see any car go 50 with a 6 cell and a brushed motor without smoking the ESC. Get one of those Drag Racing motors and run a Microswitch. :)

Anyone Rally their TC3? I might follow tc3punk's steps and getting a Team TC3, Rally Kit, BL (Maybe the Novak system), SNR Wheels, and a few other things. I'm tired of my XXX (Gonna sell it for the TC3) so I'm going to use this as a Drifting/Off-road Rally car.

Another thing, I think tc3punk hit somewhere around 50 with BL and 12 cells, lol. :D

[RC10's]

If I were going to race it in a stock spec sort of class whats a good motor that I can use with the stock esc? Would it be a touring motor of some kind from trinity, or a reedy? There normally 20turns right? Would a single be the fastest?

the stock ESC can handle a 18-36 turn motor(assuming its the LRP runner). The very popular stock class motors out that I would reccomend are the revenge of the monster pro by trinity or the P2K PRO also by trinity. Trinity makes awesome products and both of those motors are gonna give you about as good a stock performance as you can get. A single would be more torque and less peak RPM a triple or quad or even quint would give you higher RPM with less low end torque. All you have to do is gear according to you motor.

[BigBadTahoe]

Thanks for the info on those motors. I checked at my LHS and right now they only have the green machine regular one and the pro version, are those good motors for stock racing? Or are those for spec racing which is I assume 27t motors which is slower than a 20 turn correct. If the are good whats the diff. between the regular and pro they are only about a dollar difference in price? Thanks again!

[xtreme]

I believe I have the Factory Team Teflon sealed bearings(white mesh seal). How do you clean these bearings? I tried taking one of the seals off but it looks like it is going to rip. Do I have to take the seals off to clean them? Will the cleaner destroy the seals? And once you clean them, what oil do you relube with?

Basically, do I treat these bearings any differently from other bearings?

Thanks,
Scott

[chance]

xtreme, if you look closely, you will see a thin retainer, or clip in the outter bearing race. Remove the clip and the teflon seal will come out without damage.

I don't normally remove the seal... I'm lazy.

[chance]

I'm guessing no one offers an aftermarket swaybar that is bent with the same shape as the AE bars.

[FSU427P]

I haven't seen any other companies that make the sway bars.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Megatech does.

[FSU427P]

I stand corrected. Thanks!

[BigBadTahoe]

I am still wondering what would be a good motor that would have a higher topspeed than the stock 19t? Also what pitch pinion gear does this car use? I have a 48 pitch on it and it is so tight against the spur gear it won't turn.

[xtreme]

Originally posted by chance
xtreme, if you look closely, you will see a thin retainer, or clip in the outter bearing race. Remove the clip and the teflon seal will come out without damage.

I don't normally remove the seal... I'm lazy.

Thanks very much, that worked.

[rcracerguy]

Hey Dub. The Green Machine your hobby shop has will be just fine. It is a high rpm motor just like the Monster stock is. It will be fine no matter wither you get the pro or not,but I would buy the pro if you don't tune your own motors anyway.

[rcracerguy]

Oh and yes it is 48 pitch gears. I would gear that motor with a 26-27 tooth pinion to start out with. Depending on your track.

[BigBadTahoe]

I was just running my car in the house which means a lot of slow driving with an occasional burst of speed with a new 24t pinion. I was using a 3300GP and about maybe half way through the pack not even close to losing any powerit started to smell hot. I reached down to pick it up and my little finger when through the chassie slats by under the motor, man that burned my finger so fast! Its now swelling a bit. Why did the stock motor get so hot! even the esc was hot not quite as bad as the motor though. Should I only drive it outside where theres plenty of room and maybe use a lower battery like a 1700 or 2000? How about some of those factory team heat sinks that cool the motor? Help I know this isn't good!:eek: :confused:

[FSU427P]

Well that seems like a lot of power for a stock motor, just the same you should probably run out side at higher speeds where you will get airflow through the esc, batts, and motor.
Yes the Factory Team radial heatsink makes a huge difference. I tested my car (I have the FT TC3) with the heatsink on and then with out. The car runs a minute longer with the heatsink on!

[BigBadTahoe]

Wow I didn't know those heatsinks would help so much, I'd better order some. As for the battery what would be ok for it? Is a 3000 still to much? For now I'll just run 1700 and 2000's just to be safe, does that sound ok? I hope its not geared too high also? Althought I seen guys with like 26 and 27t pinions in touring cars? Oh ya one more quick question, will the parma or photofrom corvette 190mm bodies fit good on the TC3? Thanks!:) :confused:

[yoda_sez]

I have the same 'problem', so to speak, I was testing out my TC3(with heatsink) on my car stand(wheels not touching the floor) for about a minute, the motor got hot, and the ESC got very hot.

Also, how long have you been running the motor? motors that have had 30+ runs on them tend to run hotter, also they will be less efficient, making the ESC and battery hotter.

[FSU427P]

As for the corvette body, it should fit with no problem.
Motors with 30+ runs on them should have had the commutator cut a long long time ago. A motor that has been used a long time without regular maintenance will heat up very quickly and cause problems with the speed control and batteries.

[BigBadTahoe]

My motor only has about 4 runs on it so I don't think it needs work yet. About every 10-15 runs it should be trued and everything right? I have a new problem the esc heatsinks are falling off! I am now missing one, will it still be ok or should I order some extra's? Ya know this is my first AE RC and so far it handles good and all but it has a lot of problems since I had to tighten the stock pinion that came from the factory on it since it got loose on the first run, my rear right wheels cvd pin fell out so I only have 3wd. I thought AE was suppose to be one of the best?

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Yes, but that doesn't prevent the CVD pins from popping out does it? ;)

Next time you replace the pin, put some shrink wrap around that area so it doesn't happen again.

[TeamMishap]

Anyone able to forward me some dimensions of the Stealth Diff outdrives?

I'm looking for:
ID of the screw hole
OD of the screw hole
OD of the face that interfaces with the diff balls
OD of the outdrives

I hear the T3s tranny is a direct bolt on to the Duratrax Evader, but that the outdrives are too short. If the measurements are the same, I can use my Evader's outdrives with the rest of the Stealth tranny.

Thanks if anyone can help me out.

[FSU427P]

I'm not sure about that. I own a T3, but I have never seen the back end of an Evader, nor have I ever heard of bolting the stealth tranny up to it. I have no doubt that it can be done, bu tyou might want to ask the guys on the T3 forum or on the Evader ST forum.

[TeamMishap]

I'm told the case is a direct bolt on, just that the T3 outdrives are too short...maybe if I could get longer bones...

[FSU427P]

Maybe you could find a set of MIP CVD's that are long enough.

[tallyrc]

does anybody know if the long outdrives from the NTC3 will work in the tc3, or do i need the entire ATD differential kit? basically can i just buy the long outdrives?

[RC10's]

Robinson racing products make several outrdives for stealth trannys, im cant guarantee one would be longer then any other though. Im sure you could make a stealth tranny work in a Evader its just a matter of how much work you are willing to put into it.

[Jhstud50]

I might get a TC3 RTR and I was wondering how fast it will go with 2400's and 3300's batteries. :)

[FSU427P]

Respectively, it should do about the same speed with both of those batteries, it will just run longer on the 3300's. Your speed with the RTR should be in the 20-21mph range.

[Jhstud50]

Thank you for telling me. :) I am going to buy a TC3 Racer kit instead to make it go fast using a F1 Super/reverse speed control, a 13 turn Reedy. :cool:

[Jhstud50]

Does the Racer Kit comes with a spur gear? If so, how many teeth does it have?

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Yes, 72t 48pitch.

[FSU427P]

The kit comes with a spur gear. It is a 72 tooth spur gear. For a 13 turn motor, you will want to buy a 23 tooth pinion. (pinions are not included with the kit). This will set the overall gear ratio at 7.83, which should give you good speed.

[BigBadTahoe]

Right now I am running a 19 turn motor that came with the RTR and a 26t pinion, I had to sort of turn the motor so the pinion and spur weren't smashed together so much since the 26 is bigger in diameter than the stock 22t. Is this ok because I have already moved the screws on the mount on the front of the motor so it would be as far away from the spur as possible but it still wasn't quite enough. I also would like to know if the green machine motor which is 27turn would be faster, slower, or the same as the 19turn? LHS owner said they were about the same in speed but he a airplane guy.:D

[Jhstud50]

I changed my mind i am going to get a duratrax speed conrtol that can use 8+ motor turns and i am going to get a Pluse 9 turn. What is the right pinion for this motor with a 72 spur? :p

[FSU427P]

for the 9 turn use a 19 tooth pinion. When you build the kit the manual will tell you the same thing.

[BigBadTahoe]

Someone please help me out! I put the 26t pinion on and it seems to be about the same speed as the 24tpinion except with less torque. I think the motor heatin up pretty bad to with the 3300. Help straighten things out!:eek: :confused:

[AudiTT-Quattro]

You've already identified your own problem. Stick with the 24t then. The motor you're currently running is probably having trouble with the gearing since it doesn't have enough torque.

Heat is a good place to start for identifying prime gear ratios for that particular motor. You should be able to run the motor without it getting super hot but only warm.

[BigBadTahoe]

I have it a the 24t pinion now but it is still not as fast enough for me. I wanted to keep it for like stock without going mod but what would be a faster motor than the 19turn that came with it? Is the Green machine or Green machine pro any better?

[Rinkrat99]

I know this is not the right forum but I need some Touring Car advice. I am running a HPI RS4 Rally onroad with 1/4" spacers in the shock to reduce the ride height. The ride height is now about 1". The car has been run on an asphalt surface and my two front tires are wearing very badly on the inside to the point that one is actually worn through aqnd the other is close.

The rear tires are wearing fairly even across the surface of the tire. The front have worn somewhat even across the surface until the last 1/4". Someone mentioned working on reducing the negative camber.

any recomendations?

[ebtucker]

I want to purchase an ESC for my TC3, I want the esc to handle at the least a 12turn mod, also i want my car to achieve great top end speed somewhere around 40-50mph and i want the torque to be so great that it will spin all 4 tires from a stand still. I have about $100 bucks to invest in, Also i think i want a 4 wire esc and it must have standard tamiya connector for the battery and bullet connectors for the motors. Does anyone have a car that does this now and if so what is your setup? i have a trinity gp3300 assembled pack, P2K2 motor and JR XR-2 radio equipment.

[FSU427P]

Alright, well you have the right battery for your project, but $100 might not be enough for the setup you desire.

Example: For my setup I use a LRP V 7.1 esc ($149.99 new, no motor limit), and a Reedy Ti modified 9x2 ($54.99). With this setup my TC3 does about 43mph (note: my TC3 is also heavily modified for racing). However, right there we are well over what you are willing to spend.

Here's what you can try.
Go to ebay or try the buy/sell/trade forums on this website an dlook for what you need used (but not abused). Its hard and always expensive to get into the 40-50mph club. Good luck!

[ebtucker]

I read that the Duratrax Intellispeed 8t Racing ESC has a peak amp rating of 4700. How does this affect top speed? And what should i look for in a LRP speedo, all the current ratings are listed as continous, or brief and peak. Also what does the speed Gems motors from trintiy compare to reedy TI and KI. Im thinking if im going to spend 150 on a speedo and another 55 on a motor, heck, with about 50 more i can get a brushless Novak and with 5800 rpm/v im looking at 41000 rpm or more.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Current ratings on hobby ESCs don't mean squat. Don't judge an ESC by that rating; the only reliable ratings are voltage, motor turn limit, resistance, and BEC output.

[jkerr0043]

Hey guys, I'm selling a TC3. Email me and I'll get you the info if you're interested. jkerr0043@cox.net

[BIGDADDYV]

I recently built a FTTC3... I dont know how I lived without it for soo long... Its just great... My question is this .. I am using it primarily as a drag racing car... (Scale 1/4 mile)
I have not put any upgrades in the car besides a Cameleon Pro2 19t.. Heck after putting the car together and adding an esc I am kinda broke.. But I need to know what is the best gearing to install to make me go the quickest down stretch...
I am running stock gearing it it as of now .... Help me out guys I need to go fast... BDV

[RC10's]

I have it a the 24t pinion now but it is still not as fast enough for me. I wanted to keep it for like stock without going mod but what would be a faster motor than the 19turn that came with it? Is the Green machine or Green machine pro any better?

My top reccomendation for a stock motor would be a revenge of the monster PRO by trinity. Also the stock runner ESC can handle down to 18 turns so you can get a speed gems 18 turn, my friend has that combo and it is pretty quick.

ebtucker-

The F1 Pro reverse gets you a no limit for 100 bucks, but thats your whole budget right there and you still need a motor. I also noticed you seem to be stuck on the tamiya connectors. The problem with those connectors is by the time you have a motor/esc combo to reach your speed dreams you will have brown melted tamiya connectors. Trust me anything under a 12-14 turn they will melt....good luck

[LavaPunk]

Can anyone tell me the ground clearence of a t3?

[FSU427P]

Wel this is the TC3 forum, but the T3's ground clearance depends on you. You can adjust it with the mounting holes on the shock towers.

[BIGDADDYV]

Never mind guys, as soon as its availible I am going to the new Novak Super Srpot Brushless with 22/75 gears... It should scream then....BDV

[LavaPunk]

Woops sorry for posting to the wrong forum guys.

[ebtucker]

im not stuck on the tamiya connectors, just hate soldering, can never make the job look good, i like deans connectors, but i always have trouble making the job look good. I have decided to extend the budget more. id like a lrp v7.1 esc and a speedgems pyrite 10. ive looked on ebay for he v7.1 ill get a used one if it looks new and confirmed works.

[BigBadTahoe]

So the revenge of the monster pro would be faster than my 19turn that came with the car correct? Does it require a lot of maintence or is it pretty much the same as the 19turn?

[BIGDADDYV]

I recently got into on-road.. I am for the most part a gravel spraying off road nut.. LOL.. But as soo as I got my TC3 I knew it needed to go faster.. I was at my LHS and told them I was thinking about putting in my 15t Ruby... The guy told me that if I wanted to keep the stock esc (runner) and make it preform lke a 15t then the motor I was looking for was the Chameleon Pro 2 19t... I was scepticle but bought it anyways.. (34 bucks great investment) .. I tested it that afternoon against my 15t in my race pede.... Good Golly Ms. Molly it ran just like a champ...kept up with and then passed my 15t is the straights and ate up the corners.. (the car probably had alot to do with that also, LOL) But if your looking for Low Maint and lots of great speed then that is the motor I would recomend...
Just trying to help , BDV

[BigBadTahoe]

Sounds pretty good to me! I might do that, I was kinda just tryin to figure out what the pro's use for whatever class that would be called "stock" "spec"? I think a monster is 27turn and 19t has to be faster right? Just checkin to make sure I have all the correct info!:D

[BIGDADDYV]

Dub, to the best of my knowledge a 27t has a higher rate of speed in the long run (like down a huge stretch) but the 19t will get you to the top speed faster.... My Chameleon is great for giving you tons of punch in the corners and especially down the straits... it is by far the best all aroud motor I have used in the TC3... I used the stock one in the RTR kit to get me going then I jumped to a 15t ruby that needed a bad com cut .. Then after the rebuild I decided to go to the 19t Chameleon... It really ripps... In time tests it keeps u and pretty much surpasses my 15t...
I think Tower sells them for $34.00.. Check them out and have at it.. The Pro2 version has the diod installed and is already broken in.. Add a set of no solder connectors to it and your in business.... LMK how it works out for ya...... BDV