Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v3.0 [Archive]

fastharry

02-04-2003, 06:15 PM

I'll assume you have a Factory team tray(thats the associated one).....If you look on page 20 of your manual,it shows spacers that go underneath your throttle servo(depending on the brand).....AND,if you look at the instructions that came with the deck,there are 2 more you have to add when you install the deck..they go underneath the servo mounts,and lift teh servo up....check to make sure you have these in....

I don't have the RTR,I have the kit..I don't know what changed in teh RTR,but you can always go to associateds site and look at the original manual(for the kit) and compare...

as far as the deck itself hitting,mine is about 1 mm away,thats pretty close also..once agian,I'd get teh servo out of teh way,and trim the deck a tad..

what batterys are you using?...

NTC3NUT

02-04-2003, 06:26 PM

waileun,
They are cast aluminum.

ae#1

02-04-2003, 06:37 PM

Originally posted by fastharry
I'll assume you have a Factory team tray(thats the associated one).....If you look on page 20 of your manual,it shows spacers that go underneath your throttle servo(depending on the brand).....AND,if you look at the instructions that came with the deck,there are 2 more you have to add when you install the deck..they go underneath the servo mounts,and lift teh servo up....check to make sure you have these in....

I don't have the RTR,I have the kit..I don't know what changed in teh RTR,but you can always go to associateds site and look at the original manual(for the kit) and compare...

as far as the deck itself hitting,mine is about 1 mm away,thats pretty close also..once agian,I'd get teh servo out of teh way,and trim the deck a tad..

what batterys are you using?...

Thanks you, ya in the manual it tells u weather not u need spacers for ur specific model of servo mine did not need so i put the ones i needed to put in anyway, anyway i fixed it i had to trim everything up, as for the battery its a no mercy NiMH battery pack recharchable, its to big to put unterneatheath the tray, so i geuss i have to put it on top of tray with zip ties. THANKS AGAIN

fastharry

02-04-2003, 08:28 PM

Originally posted by ae#1
Thanks you, ya in the manual it tells u weather not u need spacers for ur specific model of servo mine did not need so i put the ones i needed to put in anyway, anyway i fixed it i had to trim everything up, as for the battery its a no mercy NiMH battery pack recharchable, its to big to put unterneatheath the tray, so i geuss i have to put it on top of tray with zip ties. THANKS AGAIN

what does that pack look like?......why not get the 5 cell flat pack they show in teh instructions?...putting a battery pack on top changes your CG......looks ugly..........AND,stands the possibility of comming loose in a collision....

BTW,your very welcome....

SimonFDR

02-04-2003, 09:46 PM

RD Logics has the while tranny case, brace ... kit for 69.95 with free shipping. They are also giving the T6 Chassis for free! Ordered my self a set.

Pro3/nmt105

02-04-2003, 10:03 PM

Originally posted by ae#1
Thanks you, ya in the manual it tells u weather not u need spacers for ur specific model of servo mine did not need so i put the ones i needed to put in anyway, anyway i fixed it i had to trim everything up, as for the battery its a no mercy NiMH battery pack recharchable, its to big to put unterneatheath the tray, so i geuss i have to put it on top of tray with zip ties. THANKS AGAIN
the spacers that come with the upperdeck must be used the spacers that the manual says you need for some servos are much smaller spacers that come with the kit. look at the direction sheet that comes with it it dosnt say put it in if you have a certain servo just to put it in, you need them for all servos.

TopKatz

02-05-2003, 10:12 AM

Sup yall!!!

Just ordered up a NTC3 rear kit. Im going to strip my Rs4-3 of all its equipment (JR electronics, RB x12 3port) and drop that stuff intot eh AE. That will give me a RB powered RFX and NTC3. Im not sure what Im going to do with my Rs4 yet. Ill probaly put the 12rs motor back in with some old equipment so I can let my freinds bash it.

fastharry

02-05-2003, 10:14 AM

Originally posted by TopKatz
Sup yall!!!

Just ordered up a NTC3 rear kit. Im going to strip my Rs4-3 of all its equipment (JR electronics, RB x12 3port) and drop that stuff intot eh AE. That will give me a RB powered RFX and NTC3. Im not sure what Im going to do with my Rs4 yet. Ill probaly put the 12rs motor back in with some old equipment so I can let my freinds bash it.

'bout time;) ...........enjoy..

TopKatz

02-05-2003, 10:19 AM

lol...

I gave up the HPI fight last year Harry. Once I drove a real car(read RFX) it became painfully obvious how lacking the Rs4 is. The Rs4 did serve its purpous though. It got me back into the hoby, and focused on TC's... so it was money well spent in that sense.

Now its time to move on, try some thing new. Im sure I will enjoy building and running the NTC3....

hyperstang

02-05-2003, 10:24 AM

Enjoy TopKatz,
I enjoyed every part of my NTC3 and now I have 3 (yikes). Since the day it hooked up at my first RC Car race, I like the looks and feel of the car. I even had a partner of mine change from his RS43 SS (about 4 months old) and change to NTC3. So enjoy and take some pictures...

Race on

TopKatz

02-05-2003, 10:29 AM

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

Ill besure and post some pics on my web site, and link them in here...

www.intercityinc.com/tkrc

BTW: Just for kicks, type my name into a google search "topkatz", then scroll down. I think Im the last listing.... kinda cool to be listed in google!

Wyle E. Coyote

02-05-2003, 10:47 AM

Here comes another question, from a guy new to nitro. I'm getting ready to break in my engine, and realized I don't yet have any fuel.

1. Should I use a fuel with a lower nitro content to break in my motor?

2. I am planning to race, and want to know if I should stick with a fuel that is 20%, 25%, or 30% nitro?

Just for y'alls information, I'm running the O.S. .12 tr motor.

TopKatz

02-05-2003, 10:55 AM

Brake the motor in with the fuel your going to use.

What type of racing are you going to be doing? Some weekend parking lot racing? Some light semi organized track racing?

If so then %20 is fine. Its easy to get, and will give you good life expectancy out of your Mill. Pick some brand that you can get all the time, and stick with it. I run Blue Thunder because my LHS has it all the time.

If you are going to be more serious about racing, and dont mind rebuilding your motor often, tehn you could go with some %30. However this will change the timming of your motor, and you will nead to get a different head shim to compencate and get the timming back to teh correct place. Im not sure what shime you would nead with that OS motor and %30, but your LHS might help, or try searching for "OS .12 TR + %30 nitro" or some thing like that.

Good luck!

cbr74

02-05-2003, 11:15 AM

Once I got my NTC3, the RS4's went on E-Bay.

TopKatz

02-05-2003, 11:23 AM

I thought about e-baying my Rs4, the problem is that my Rs4 is so pimped out that I would jsut take a bath selling it. Even if I sell it as RTR I would only get like 250-300 ... which is just not enuff money for me to sell it. My rs4 3 has about every posible worth while hop-up. Its not a bad car, its just not a good one either...... ohwell...live and learn!

hyperstang

02-05-2003, 12:38 PM

I totaly agree with TOPKATZ,
break in the engine with the same nitro you plan on racing with. I personly use 30% O'Donnel with my Nitro TC3, running my JP Modified engine. But again I race competitively in ROAR races every other sunday, but for just the parking lot stuff and maybe the occasional get together with freinds....20% is more than sufficiant. I wouldn't go less than that though...especially with the OS 12 TR....

Race on....

OutKast

02-05-2003, 02:52 PM

double post.

OutKast

02-05-2003, 02:53 PM

I just received my ntc3 today. I planned on getting the kit, but when i went to my LHS the price difference was a mere $30.00 for the rtr. They had a sale on, so i got the ae .12 and that ace transmitter...not to bad for $30.00...lol anyway, i have the threaded shocks on order, but what shock oil, and front/rear springs do you recomend i start with? its mostly for parking lot and club races, but i do need to compete with the fusions...lol and what else, beside the 2-speed is the difference between the kit and the RTR? And also, i saw a RX pack on ebay, and was wondering if your guys knew if it would fit of hand? thanks again guys.

6V 1000 MAH NIMH FLAT RECEIVER PACK

fastharry

02-05-2003, 02:53 PM

this is where me and topkatz don't agree....I did not like Blue tthunder....and with only a 10% oil content,I don't think its enough oil for OS engines....

I run Trinity monster HP....also HPI's power fuel.....they are all mixed my Wildcat fuels..I had nothing but problems with BT(read:engine failure).....esp. since I don't use temp as a tuning guide,only performance....

Wyle E. Coyote

02-05-2003, 02:53 PM

Thank ya'll for the help!

OutKast

02-05-2003, 03:08 PM

Heres a picture...does anyone know if thse are worth the money? the distrabuted by racers hobbies, and sell for like $14.99??? i just thought it seemed like a good deal, but have never owned a RX pack before? thanks.

6V 1000+ MAH NIMH FLAT RECEIVER PACK

nhearnest

02-05-2003, 04:19 PM

I was curious if you guys were familiar with a good .12 side exhaust engine for the ntc3. Maybe I should just switch over to rear exhaust set up for my ntc3. What parts are needed to switch from side exhaust to rear exhaust and is it worth the cost? I saw some people tested that funky looking dynamite header and was wondering if that would be a cheaper alternative so I could use rear exhaust engine.

hyperstang

02-05-2003, 04:20 PM

OutKast,
I bought the AE shock kit thing with all the different shocks and I run the blue in the fronts and reds in the back, or vise versa...Well its the softs in the back and the stiffer ones in the front. In the rear I run 50wt Losi and front more....I think in the 60's or 70's. I forget, I am at work.

I needed way more traction on the at our track, and punching the throttle through our sweeper, I needed my car to hang in there to rage in the staright away right after. This set up seems to work. I also run Sorex 36R in the rear and Sorex 40's in the front. I toed in the rears and set in the camber.

But there are guys running the stock springs and kicking butt out there. Also I think you RTR kit doesn't come with CVD's, but I maybe wrong. Congrats on the new NTC3....you will enjoy it.

Rookie Solara

02-05-2003, 04:25 PM

Originally posted by nhearnest
I was curious if you guys were familiar with a good .12 side exhaust engine for the ntc3. Maybe I should just switch over to rear exhaust set up for my ntc3. What parts are needed to switch from side exhaust to rear exhaust and is it worth the cost? I saw some people tested that funky looking dynamite header and was wondering if that would be a cheaper alternative so I could use rear exhaust engine.

If you decided to use SIDE exhaust engine, hands down to OS .12 CVR, and get yourself a $25 Paris Turbo Ring tune pipe, the best combo for side exh engine. Awesome low-end and still get Great high output for like $100 at Towers.

hyperstang

02-05-2003, 04:31 PM

My first engine in my Nitro TC3 was actually a good engine, it was the Evolution II HPI 12. This was a great side exhaust engine, made by novarossi, and this thing kicked some serious booty. It kept up with the MT12's and OS motors.

Then I converted to a rear exhaust engine which I run right now. The JP Modified engine. Big difference from my HPI. I got hooked up with an AE dual chamber muffler and I am gone. I went to a lower pinion set up and my take off is awesome. I think 21/24 or something like that.

To switch from a side to rear exhuast, which is exactly what I did, was I just bought a non pull flywheel and non pull motor mounts. About 20.00-25.00. Or do the easy way and on the rear exhuast motor use the same flywheel and motor mounts you used on the side exhaust engine and put them on the new rear exhaust engine. When you use the starter box (another expense if you don't have one) the clearance for the flywheel should be about the same as non pull set up......

Oh yeah...you need a rear exhaust header and pipe..

Keep us posted..
Race on

cbr74

02-05-2003, 04:39 PM

I started out with an O.S. 12 CV-RX in my NTC3, then switched to a Collari XS12PSS. The Collari puts the O.S. to shame. It is the shag nastiest side exhaust engine I've ever run.

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Feb/2003254271751703980997.jpg

nhearnest

02-05-2003, 04:51 PM

Are the collari engines easy to tune and do they hold a tune well? I just checked the collari website and they are not showing any side exhaust engines. The only thing they show are the rear exhaust engines I hope they did not drop side exhuast line. How do you like the performance of your collari compared to some of the other hotter .12 engines on the market? What pipe are you using and do you like it better than the stock ae pipe?

Thanks for the quick reply.

cbr74

02-05-2003, 05:06 PM

It's not as forgiving as an O.S. in the tuning department. But if you are at least decent with your tuning skills, it isn't hard to get it to scream.

Ace has the XS12 side exhaust on their site.

I'm running a Paris pipe which I really like.

Way2Fast

02-06-2003, 04:00 AM

Originally posted by cbr74
It's not as forgiving as an O.S. in the tuning department. But if you are at least decent with your tuning skills, it isn't hard to get it to scream.

Ace has the XS12 side exhaust on their site.

I'm running a Paris pipe which I really like.

Can you post the link? I've looked and don't find it...

Thanks.

cbr74

02-06-2003, 10:21 AM

Collari at Ace (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_118_119&products_id=2531&osCsid=b4a6f870f6914ed8a7f23999b568fbe9)

;)

waileun

02-06-2003, 11:40 AM

Hi Guys,

I hope some of you out there can help me with this noise that I am experiencing with the digital servo.
I have bought the 3PK for my NTC3. It comes with 2 units of S9451 servo. After I mounted the servo on the NTC3 and turned it on, the servo driving the steering is constantly making noise. Initially I thought that the servo is spoilt but when I removed the servo horn, the noise disappeared.
So, it seems that the servo is experiencing some form of load when the servo horn is mounted. I did the sub trim for the steering. It did get rid of the noise at that point of time. But as soon as i turn the steering wheel left or right and then return it to neutral, the noise comes back.

Is this noise normal for digital servo? or have I mounted the servo wrongly? Can anyone help me with this? Thanks in advance.

TopKatz

02-06-2003, 11:44 AM

Most digital servos will make noise when they have a load on them. What your describing sounds normal...

Rookie Solara

02-06-2003, 01:02 PM

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Guys,

I hope some of you out there can help me with this noise that I am experiencing with the digital servo.
I have bought the 3PK for my NTC3. It comes with 2 units of S9451 servo. After I mounted the servo on the NTC3 and turned it on, the servo driving the steering is constantly making noise. Initially I thought that the servo is spoilt but when I removed the servo horn, the noise disappeared.
So, it seems that the servo is experiencing some form of load when the servo horn is mounted. I did the sub trim for the steering. It did get rid of the noise at that point of time. But as soon as i turn the steering wheel left or right and then return it to neutral, the noise comes back.

Is this noise normal for digital servo? or have I mounted the servo wrongly? Can anyone help me with this? Thanks in advance.

You SHOULD NOT have any noise when both servos are on NEUTRAL position (dead center position) cause there should not be any load there....then turn yoru steering to LEFT or RIGHT (all the way), if you can hear noises from both sides, that means your servos are pulling too much (steer too far to left or right)......use the 3PK screen page #1 then option #1, that should be able to trim the FAR LEFT and FAR RIGHT setting....trim them down a little untill the noise are disappear. (do exactly the same to your trottle servo).

I never be able to eliminate all those noise 100%, but you should try to let the servos turn to the RIGHT point, not too far and not too short....btw, I use Futaba analogy servos on my 3PK only. One more advise, the steering part of NTC3 are kinda funky, make sure follow the manual and get the right distance (You have to adjust that servo horn into some degree - like 8 degree or something)......and you cannot use servo saver onto your servo.

cbr74

02-06-2003, 01:06 PM

Digital servos "chatter" it's perfectly normal. They are very sensitive to load and will engage to "hold" their position with the slightest pressure.

OutKast

02-06-2003, 02:43 PM

Hey, I bought a ae spring kit so i dont need to know that anymore...but what weight oil should i start with in the front and rear? thanks.

sook

02-06-2003, 03:16 PM

How about follow the instruction manual Outkast, it is a great starting point.:rolleyes:

wrxdan

02-06-2003, 03:23 PM

Hey Rookie.... Did you replace the steering break-away spring with a stiffer one? The stock one seems kinda weak, I can see high grip foam tires causing inacurate steering due to this weak spring.

Pro3/nmt105

02-06-2003, 04:38 PM

aslot of us replaces the stock servo saver spring with the spring for the gts slipper clutch.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2879

puma1824

02-06-2003, 09:49 PM

Rookie Solara

02-06-2003, 10:01 PM

Originally posted by wrxdan
Hey Rookie.... Did you replace the steering break-away spring with a stiffer one? The stock one seems kinda weak, I can see high grip foam tires causing inacurate steering due to this weak spring.

Yes I did, I can immediately see the different, and can't wait to get the real road test, I also replaced the stock bushing to ball bearings one.....

Rookie Solara

02-06-2003, 10:01 PM

Sorry, double post...........

TopKatz

02-06-2003, 10:37 PM

puma1824 - I have not got the NTC3 yet. It should be here tomorow, or monday.

Once I get everything built up and dialed Ill let you know what I think. My gut tells me that the NTC3 will make better use of the power then the RFX. I think the clean layout of the NTC3 shaft drive, and the layout of the transmition is realy slick.

thefuzzclub

02-06-2003, 11:40 PM

will the 26mm front and 30mm rear foam tires fit on the ntc3 without shaving?

NTC3NUT

02-07-2003, 08:54 AM

Yes, the tires will fit. Zero offset in the rear with 30mm, right guys? You may have to trim the rear hub, check to see if the rim makes contact with it where the toe-link attaches. I had this problem with a few brands that I tried last year.

waileun

02-07-2003, 03:35 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
You SHOULD NOT have any noise when both servos are on NEUTRAL position (dead center position) cause there should not be any load there....then turn yoru steering to LEFT or RIGHT (all the way), if you can hear noises from both sides, that means your servos are pulling too much (steer too far to left or right)......use the 3PK screen page #1 then option #1, that should be able to trim the FAR LEFT and FAR RIGHT setting....trim them down a little untill the noise are disappear. (do exactly the same to your trottle servo).

I never be able to eliminate all those noise 100%, but you should try to let the servos turn to the RIGHT point, not too far and not too short....btw, I use Futaba analogy servos on my 3PK only. One more advise, the steering part of NTC3 are kinda funky, make sure follow the manual and get the right distance (You have to adjust that servo horn into some degree - like 8 degree or something)......and you cannot use servo saver onto your servo.

Hi Rookie,

I have done what you say and prevented the servo from over travelling the right and left limit. The noise come when it is in the neutral position. I manage to get rid the noise in the throttle servo. But getting rid of the noise at the steering servo is really a challenge. My speculation is that the servo cannot generate the minute torque to return the steering to the "stressless" position. The servo knows that it is slightly off the preset neutral position, but it just cannot adjust itself for that small change.

As for the servo saver, initially I did not mount it to the servo, but later I realise that the servo link is not in a straight line. but in an angle. So I added in the saver. This also give some clearance space for me to accomodate the antenna wire from the reciever. But I have to loosen the screw(the one with a ball end) on the servo arm. If not the 'screw' will hit the chasis. I will continue to explore ways to remove the noise, but in the mean time if you or anyone out there has any suggestion on how to solve the noise issue, please feel free to drop me a line. Thanks.

Wai Leun

waileun

02-07-2003, 03:37 PM

Originally posted by cbr74
Digital servos "chatter" it's perfectly normal. They are very sensitive to load and will engage to "hold" their position with the slightest pressure.
Hi cbr74,
Thanks for your reply.

Wai Leun

thefuzzclub

02-07-2003, 09:36 PM

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Yes, the tires will fit. Zero offset in the rear with 30mm, right guys? You may have to trim the rear hub, check to see if the rim makes contact with it where the toe-link attaches. I had this problem with a few brands that I tried last year.
Thank you NTC3NUT. I remembered you selling a NTC3 way back last year. Anyways thanks again.

Rookie Solara

02-07-2003, 09:41 PM

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Rookie,
As for the servo saver, initially I did not mount it to the servo, but later I realise that the servo link is not in a straight line. but in an angle. So I added in the saver. This also give some clearance space for me to accomodate the antenna wire from the reciever. But I have to loosen the screw(the one with a ball end) on the servo arm. If not the 'screw' will hit the chasis. I will continue to explore ways to remove the noise, but in the mean time if you or anyone out there has any suggestion on how to solve the noise issue, please feel free to drop me a line. Thanks.

Wai Leun

The easiest way to check your servo.....Take the servo out, leave the servo HORN on the servo and listen...In neutral position you should not hear any noise that is unusual......then use your thumb and add a little pressure (while the servo is still in the neutral position) and see you can hear any noise came from the servo due to the stress (like you before when you turn left and right before adjusting the trim)....

And let us know what you hear...

tallyrc

02-07-2003, 10:32 PM

anyone out there gonna try the trinity piston and sleeve for their os .12tr? instant turbo motor... just interested to hear what some of you all think.

SimonFDR

02-07-2003, 11:11 PM

Where can I get some blue aluminum or Ti arms for my car?

Also where can I get a blue aluminum or Ti Radio tray?

wrxdan

02-07-2003, 11:47 PM

One question. The pinion gears are not aligning properly. I understand how to adjuster in & out (gear mesh). But how critical is front to back alignment? My pinion gears cover 2/3s to the spur gears, but it's not a perfect alignment. Is this an issue? I am using AEs aftermarket blue mounts. I can post pics if needed. Thanks!

waileun

02-08-2003, 12:22 AM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
The easiest way to check your servo.....Take the servo out, leave the servo HORN on the servo and listen...In neutral position you should not hear any noise that is unusual......then use your thumb and add a little pressure (while the servo is still in the neutral position) and see you can hear any noise came from the servo due to the stress (like you before when you turn left and right before adjusting the trim)....

And let us know what you hear...

Hi Rookie,

I tried that. When the servo is off the chasis but with the servo horn on, it did not make any noise. A vertical pressure down at the horn also create no noise. But a slight horizontal pressure to the left or right will create the noise that is similar to the noise created when the servo is mounted on the chasis with the linked joined.

Any clue?

Wai Leun

Distro

02-08-2003, 12:34 AM

wrxdan

02-08-2003, 12:44 AM

Originally posted by Distro
Best way to align the gears is to take a peice of paper and put it between the spur and pinion gears, push them together, spin them and lock the screws down. Then take the paper out and it should be a good mesh.

Nope.. I can get the mesh fine, it's the front to back alignment I am wondering about.

Dan

tallyrc

02-08-2003, 12:45 AM

my friend that uses the same mounts has the same alignment problem. it may be a shimming issue.

waileun

02-08-2003, 02:30 AM

Hi Guys,

I am just wondering if it is good practice to wash the car after each run. Or should I just dust it?
And, is constant removal of the radio tray from the chasis bad?
For the residual of the fuel inside the AE dual chamber pipe, what is the best way to clean the inside of the pipe?

(Sorry for so many questions, I'm new to RC and is getting really hooked to it)
Wai Leun

NTC3NUT

02-08-2003, 04:37 AM

anyone out there gonna try the trinity piston and sleeve for their os .12tr? instant turbo motor... just interested to hear what some of you all think.

Rookie, I think I'm going to get an OS just to try this out. No one at my track races anything but NovaRossi's (myself included), and I would love to see the look on their faces if they got motored by a "stock" OS. Yes, I know it's cheeting, but it's strictly for a little fun at the club level. I was supprised to see Trinity sell it that cheep. I honsestly thought it would be at least the price of the motor, really. I think I'll skip the button and just go for the piston/sleeve/rod combo. If I do I'll let you know how it goes.

fastharry

02-08-2003, 08:12 AM

Originally posted by wrxdan
One question. The pinion gears are not aligning properly. I understand how to adjuster in & out (gear mesh). But how critical is front to back alignment? My pinion gears cover 2/3s to the spur gears, but it's not a perfect alignment. Is this an issue? I am using AEs aftermarket blue mounts. I can post pics if needed. Thanks!

same here..I think they are all a little off...when I put mine together last year(I got ythe first one on the shelf),same thing..I called associated and they said as long as 80% is hitting the gear,its OK....I shimmed it up a little better,and left it...no problems,even with a RB turbo 5 port...

the funny part is,I checked my Impulse(with centax),my 5 HPI's,my Kyoshos's,and you know what?...they are all a little off..either at the bell,at the sp gears,etc...

as long as you got 80% of the gears together,try shimming the clutchbell..and go enjoy the car..

waileun

02-08-2003, 08:53 AM

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Rookie, I think I'm going to get an OS just to try this out. No one at my track races anything but NovaRossi's (myself included), and I would love to see the look on their faces if they got motored by a "stock" OS. Yes, I know it's cheeting, but it's strictly for a little fun at the club level. I was supprised to see Trinity sell it that cheep. I honsestly thought it would be at least the price of the motor, really. I think I'll skip the button and just go for the piston/sleeve/rod combo. If I do I'll let you know how it goes.

Hi NTC3NUT,

yesterday I ran my 12TR Turbo under very rich setting and using the plug that is provided by the engine(Still running in). It can take on any 5 port NovaRossi with no problem. Even those Jp engine. I think this is largely due to the layout of the track.

Wai Leun

Rookie Solara

02-08-2003, 02:31 PM

Originally posted by wrxdan
Nope.. I can get the mesh fine, it's the front to back alignment I am wondering about.

Dan

If you have time, bring your NTC3 over, and I can take a look for you....and I can show you what I did to the shock towers, I just found a better way to re-inforce the tower for less then $5.

I think you might did something wrong on the clutch spacing.....since you CANNOT adjust the engine forward and backward on NTC3.

Let me know.

Rookie Solara

02-08-2003, 02:43 PM

Originally posted by waileun
Hi NTC3NUT,

yesterday I ran my 12TR Turbo under very rich setting and using the plug that is provided by the engine(Still running in). It can take on any 5 port NovaRossi with no problem. Even those Jp engine. I think this is largely due to the layout of the track.

Wai Leun

OS is a good engine, and the TURBO is their FIRST EVER Turbo engine from OS, and I don't think it will be anything LESS then regular OS.....and about the Nova Rossi and JP engine, well, their engine MUST and WILL be faster then yours, that is the fact, but at least you know, that is base upon the track, small track with TURBO engine, wasting time, any OS CVR are good enough to race.....but track like Ohio IFMAR track (or any track with the size like that).....you will find those high price engine will have the EDGE, but NOT NECESSARY blow you away....at last, it really depends on the driver's setting and his skill......if I need to race someone with LOTS of money but don't even know how to set High/low end needle......all I need is Tamiya Grasshopper to beat him because those NR and JP motors will eat him alive.

Pro3/nmt105

02-08-2003, 02:49 PM

rookie anre these the gauges you have?
http://www.sslorder.com/Shop/Images/speedtechrc/imageC22305.jpg
there 60bux and look like yours but I dont see the clear plastic piece that goes above the gauges to adjust toe-in is it included?

Pro3/nmt105

02-08-2003, 02:51 PM

oh and it dosnt say it can measure rear camber, can it?

SimonFDR

02-08-2003, 03:07 PM

I need some Ti arms....

cbr74

02-08-2003, 03:17 PM

Integy at Speedtech (http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/75.html)

Pro3/nmt105

02-08-2003, 05:18 PM

i kno speed tech has it thats where i got the pic I was just asking if it could measure rear camber because it dosnt mention it with the list of other things it can do.

tallyrc

02-08-2003, 08:53 PM

are you guys talking about running the os .12tr-t, or the os .12tr with the sirio piston and sleeve? i have a standard os 12 tr and was thinking of getting the sirio piston and sleeve.

fastharry

02-08-2003, 09:13 PM

yeah..is that sleeve a replacement(upgrade) for the TR...or a replacment for the TR(Turbo)?.....

Pro3/nmt105

02-08-2003, 11:09 PM

if they use the same crankcase Id guess it would be for both(i know that the turbo case is black). Its probably designed for the regulat tr though because trinity sells a turbo button also. What really bothers me is how they can sell a tr p/s for 60bux but for a sirio .12 its 90bux, and the tr p/s is 6 port and AAC.

tallyrc

02-09-2003, 12:19 AM

you didn't really believe pricing was based on cost did you? it's upply and demand, and nobody else makes a p/s for the serio, but someone does for the os obviously... i hope it is for the standard 12tr, they may use the same case, but the milling i'm sure is different.

Pro3/nmt105

02-09-2003, 10:20 AM

yea I know It just bothers me how they do that they made the tr p/s 60bux because its the same price as the regular p/s.

Rookie Solara

02-09-2003, 11:27 AM

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
i kno speed tech has it thats where i got the pic I was just asking if it could measure rear camber because it dosnt mention it with the list of other things it can do.

Yes, the one from speedtech is EXACTLY the same as mine, and I believe it will come with the TOP CLEAR Toe guage along with the rest of the stuff...........and yes, the front and rear guage 99% identicle except the front guages can check the CASTER....since we won' t have REAR caster to measure, and I believed they are trying to say rear CASTER instead of rear camber, if the setup system cannot measure rear camber, that is NOT a setup system.....

Pro3/nmt105...enough question, I think you NEED to buy one now and you can call STEVE and double check with him and make sure that one come with a storage case (mine is $10 cheaper without the case)

Rookie Solara

02-09-2003, 11:34 AM

Originally posted by SimonFDR
I need some Ti arms....

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/catalog2.cgi?car_id=112&cat=&man=all

I htink they have what you need, only IF you have plenty of money to waste.....

Pro3/nmt105

02-09-2003, 06:55 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Yes, the one from speedtech is EXACTLY the same as mine, and I believe it will come with the TOP CLEAR Toe guage along with the rest of the stuff...........and yes, the front and rear guage 99% identicle except the front guages can check the CASTER....since we won' t have REAR caster to measure, and I believed they are trying to say rear CASTER instead of rear camber, if the setup system cannot measure rear camber, that is NOT a setup system.....

Pro3/nmt105...enough question, I think you NEED to buy one now and you can call STEVE and double check with him and make sure that one come with a storage case (mine is $10 cheaper without the case)

I not sure if it is I dont think it comes with one because under it they sell the case for 10bux. So you paid $50? Im planning on getting one in a month or 2 because Its too cold to use my ntc3 now.

AE#1!

02-09-2003, 07:04 PM

hey, i dont know if u remeber me but i was ae#1, that account got deleted, so i got this one, so im not really new member, sorrybout that.

Twist 2 Go

02-09-2003, 07:20 PM

Hey gang, I disassembled my NTC3 today and spent about 15 minutes in the shop at my drill press and now have a lightweight two-speed one-way hub. Total cost= NOTHING!! I used the LW 2-spd clutch houising as a guide and drilled (9) 11/64" holes in it. Deburred them with a small file and it turned out great.

kreidel1

02-09-2003, 09:56 PM

Why dont you post some pics of it?

C0NTENDER

02-10-2003, 09:25 AM

Originally posted by tallyrc
you didn't really believe pricing was based on cost did you? it's upply and demand, and nobody else makes a p/s for the serio, but someone does for the os obviously... i hope it is for the standard 12tr, they may use the same case, but the milling i'm sure is different.

I hope it's for the standard TR also. Heck, I just purchased a second TR used just to use this new piston/sleeve when it comes out.

Rookie Solara

02-10-2003, 11:42 AM

Hi all, I woudl like to collect some information from NTC3 owner about the Low speed/High speed Gearing setting suggestion..........here is the deal.

I have 2 tracks planning to go this summer, one is small, lots of turns and required most of the low-end power....the other one, longer and bigger, less turn and WIDE, so top speed is more appreciated.

The stock gears setting are.....(Spur) 54/50 (Pinion) 22/26 (OEM Stock) (4 teeth diff...) CAN someone verify that...? I forgot what exactly they are.........

My small track setting will be (Spur) 54/50 (no change) (Pinion) 21/26 (5 teeth diff)

My large track setting will be (Spur) 54/50 (no change) (Pinion) 22/27 (5 teeth diff)

Can I do that on my PINION gears...? Or I have to change the 1st (or 2nd gear) with the same differences tooth like 21/25 (+4) and 22/26 (+4 again)..?

I think I just want to get some suggestion from those who used something beside the stock gearing.....what are the gearing for small tight technical track and what's that for HIGH speed track...?

Thanks.......

johnnybp7

02-10-2003, 11:47 AM

The Six Port AAC Piston and Sleeve will fit either the TR or the TR-T. I e-mail OS and they said that the crankcases for the two TR engines are identical, the only difference is the black colouring on the TR-T crankcase.

waileun

02-10-2003, 12:34 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Hi all, I woudl like to collect some information from NTC3 owner about the Low speed/High speed Gearing setting suggestion..........here is the deal.

I have 2 tracks planning to go this summer, one is small, lots of turns and required most of the low-end power....the other one, longer and bigger, less turn and WIDE, so top speed is more appreciated.

The stock gears setting are.....(Spur) 54/50 (Pinion) 22/26 (OEM Stock) (4 teeth diff...) CAN someone verify that...? I forgot what exactly they are.........

My small track setting will be (Spur) 54/50 (no change) (Pinion) 21/26 (5 teeth diff)

My large track setting will be (Spur) 54/50 (no change) (Pinion) 22/27 (5 teeth diff)

Can I do that on my PINION gears...? Or I have to change the 1st (or 2nd gear) with the same differences tooth like 21/25 (+4) and 22/26 (+4 again)..?

I think I just want to get some suggestion from those who used something beside the stock gearing.....what are the gearing for small tight technical track and what's that for HIGH speed track...?

Thanks.......

Hi Rookie,

I hope the following will be useful to you:

(54 divided by 20) x 2.5 =6.75(Fast acceleration, lowest top spd)
(54 divided by 21) x 2.5 =6.43(next fastest acceleration)
(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(next fastest acceleration, more top speed)

Wai Leun

Rookie Solara

02-10-2003, 01:36 PM

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Rookie,

I hope the following will be useful to you:

(54 divided by 20) x 2.5 =6.75(Fast acceleration, lowest top spd)
(54 divided by 21) x 2.5 =6.43(next fastest acceleration)
(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(next fastest acceleration, more top speed)

Wai Leun

Thanks, but I think I was misleading you, I don't have problem to figure out which one got the best low-end power and which one got the best top-speed, I am more concern about the ACTUAL gears on the pinions and spurs that ppl use......

Especially I am changing the amount of gears differences from 4 teeth to 5 teeth difference.....I am not sure that is OK to do so...? (you know, that means my 2nd gears MESH might be bery tight and my 1st gear mesh might just OK).

And on top of that, I have to disagree your theroy about that calcaulation.......I think they should be explain this way...

(54 divided by 20) x 2.5 =6.75(Fastest and strongest acceleration, lowest top spd)
(54 divided by 21) x 2.5 =6.43(A little slower then 20 and less power then 20 acceleration, faster top spd then 20)
(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(The weakest and Slowest acceleration, Fastest top speed)

Also, if "(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(next fastest acceleration, more top speed)" got the best acceleration and best top speed, no one will use anything less then 22 tooth on spur gear then.

Correct me if I am wrong...........or you can imagine you are riding a 18 speeds mountain bike on a mountain....

Rookie Solara

02-10-2003, 03:01 PM

The original Serpent GTP butterfly rear downforce system on NTC3.........the concept is very CLOSE, but of course, the construction is far from close, what he did was mounted 2 Serpent GTP body post w/body leveler (Serpent parts # 808143) in front of the rear toe linkages nuts position (he drillled 2 more holes which I think that will weaken the rear uprights by A LOT) the rear toe linkage........the concept is the DOWNFORCE created by the LOLA body will directly transferred to the rear WHEELS (just like the butterfly kits from Serpent chassis)

NTC3 cannot use the same concept because of their rear upright are totally different then the 705/V1RR.....etc, but this is the closest that you can do if you do have a GTP/Lola body and want to take advantage of the hugh rear downforce....

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/races/2002_photos/2002_39e_JavierHernandez.jpg

http://www.mytsn.com/products/glrimage.aspi?prid=339&imid=16451

wrxdan

02-10-2003, 04:55 PM

Dumb question Howard, but how does the rear suspension stay independent when tied to the body. And how is this an advantage over higher spring rates and thicker shock oil?

Do you think RCs with ever use the underside of the chassis to produce downforce? Much like F1 cars do?

Rookie Solara

02-10-2003, 05:35 PM

Too bad you guys cannot read chinese and japanese, I got a forum oversea that have plenty of thread regarding Barry Baker's international race in HK in 2002, and ONE of the topic is the NTC3 chassis........I can tell you this, this NTC3 chassis is actually one of the most important reason why NTC3 are so easy to drive and so stable in corner......(on the other hand, that HARDCORD open chassis just killed the most important part of the NTC3 chassis)

Yes, Wrxdan, you are correct, the rear will no longer be INDEPENDENT suspension, and that's why I said the construction of the above setting are FAR DIFFERENT (less engineered) then the real Serpent/Kyosho GTP butterfly system (you can see that on V1RR or Serpent Impact), because THAT ONE will not eliminate the rear ind. suspension geometry and travel.

But the travel of the rear suspension (esp. on NTC3) is like 5-6mm the most.......your rear sway bar probably killed the idea of Independent suspension already....and the idea of this is convert the FREE AIR into some useable force that can create trackion, and the PART of the idea of independent suspension is actually for the RIDE Comfort, RC car does not need ride comfort, but need a lot of trackion, I don't think you will find yourself COMFY to ride one of those NASCAR in Daytona, right...?

The theory of this design is by using the Lola body, the wind will PUSH the rear of the Lola body down and create downforce, then it will transfer the force to the body posts and directly forwarded to the rear 2 wheels instead of the rear shock tower (If so, then you will ended up slamming).....With the help of downforce to the rear wheels, rear trackion will be increase, and that works very well on Serpent Impulse/Kyosho V1RR and MTX3.........not to mention that is a MUST for 1/10 235mm and 1/8 on-road racer that required hugh amount of downforce at rear.

One more disadvantage of this setting is rear tires usually got shaved much faster (esp. foams).

Unlike F1, RC car does not have a complete enclosed chassis, and I believed downforce is generated from ABOVE, not below chassi, the FIN you see from the F1 are CHANNELS, to channel and stablized all the force THRU undersize of the body AS FAST AS POSSIBLE.......without the right calculation and engineering, the wind/force below will ended up working AGAINST you, from going thru to work UPWARD, ended up to be UP-FORCE. The thing is, you want the wind/force below your chassis PASS THRU the chassis as fast and as much as possible......do you still remember 5-6 years ago LeMan - team Mercedes had forced to call off their team by finishing the race because 2 out of the 3 CLK got flip in high speed at the PEAK of the track.....? They found out their OVER ENGINEERED chassis and FINS actually converted the under body force to the UP FORCE, and their CLK ended up flipping like a airplant........

Twist 2 Go

02-10-2003, 06:42 PM

Originally posted by kreidel1
Why dont you post some pics of it?

Here is the Associated part I modeled it after. Very easy to do.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMJ7&P=7

fuse01

02-10-2003, 09:22 PM

Rookie Solara

i have actually tried a lola with the body post mod done to the rear hubs to support the cover.

i found that i needed a harder spring in the rear or i will understeer..

as for gearing, try to fit 4 tooth split with 4 tooth gearing for the best fit, anthing else might end up a strip gear.

for a big high flowing track i like the 21/27 54/48 combo. for tight tracks i run stock gearing ( 5 port engine)

for my sirio 3 port ( very bad low end...) small tracks i run 20/24 54/50 -- all on a 3 shoe clutch and stiff spring.

the only issue i had with the car is tail throwing during powered exit turns.. is there any way top solve this?

RacerM

02-10-2003, 11:05 PM

Hi,

I am currently building my NTC-3 and have a question about the battery.

What type of batteries do you guys normally use?

I have a AAA sized packs and the normal straight packs. I am not sure which one to use.

This is mainly due to the balance of the chassis and the weight.

All the new cars(705 and MTX-3) uses smaller ones, so I am just wondering which one I should use.

Will the chassis balance be off totally if I used AAA sized ones?

Anyone with experience with smaller batteries in their NTC-3?

jscamry

02-11-2003, 12:04 AM

Hey all i have a Ntc3 and love it!! I currently have an Os cvr in it and and i have rebuilt the engine a number of times(i have had the engine since it was relased in earlier 99 or 01), now i think that I would benifit from a newer engine(rear exhaust,slide carb). I an looking into the Orion .12 wasp roar legal, trinity sirio standard .12 and the Os cvr(Since they are reliable, i have owned many os engines, so i kina want to try something else)

Any thouhts??

Thanks Jason

tallyrc

02-11-2003, 12:13 AM

i guess i am terribly confused as to this whole crazy suspension thing when it comes to lola bodies. regardless of how or where the body is attached, any downforce created by a wing or body is ultimately transfered to the wheels regardless of where the wing or body attaches. it's like putting lead in the car and thinking because it's not in the rims, it's not wheighting them down right? this is not like a sprung and unsprung weight issue is it? that affects the reflexivity of the suspension... can someone explain as to why there is so much intricacty in mounting them and why don't we have fancy mounts for all wings that tie them directly or indirectly to the arms?

tallyrc

02-11-2003, 12:14 AM

contender, please let us all know that sleeve works out for ya. i am very interested...

waileun

02-11-2003, 01:00 AM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Thanks, but I think I was misleading you, I don't have problem to figure out which one got the best low-end power and which one got the best top-speed, I am more concern about the ACTUAL gears on the pinions and spurs that ppl use......

Especially I am changing the amount of gears differences from 4 teeth to 5 teeth difference.....I am not sure that is OK to do so...? (you know, that means my 2nd gears MESH might be bery tight and my 1st gear mesh might just OK).

And on top of that, I have to disagree your theroy about that calcaulation.......I think they should be explain this way...

(54 divided by 20) x 2.5 =6.75(Fastest and strongest acceleration, lowest top spd)
(54 divided by 21) x 2.5 =6.43(A little slower then 20 and less power then 20 acceleration, faster top spd then 20)
(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(The weakest and Slowest acceleration, Fastest top speed)

Also, if "(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(next fastest acceleration, more top speed)" got the best acceleration and best top speed, no one will use anything less then 22 tooth on spur gear then.

Correct me if I am wrong...........or you can imagine you are riding a 18 speeds mountain bike on a mountain....

Hi Rookie,

It was written in relative sense. What it was suppose to mean was that if you don't have a <20>, the next fast you can get is the <21> and if you can't get that, the next fastest <22>. All in relative sense. Of course the easier way to understand is the way you have described.

by the way, the way you have explain the downward force of the wind on the body was interesting.

Wai Leun

C0NTENDER

02-11-2003, 08:35 AM

Originally posted by tallyrc
contender, please let us all know that sleeve works out for ya. i am very interested...

The same day that tower gets them in stock, will be the same day that I order one, so I will let you know.

Rookie Solara

02-11-2003, 12:35 PM

I was planning to get the light weight 2-speed housing for my NTC3 cause I just found out my stock housing, one of the screw was stripped........but then I found out AE discontinued this "1701 NTC3 FT Light Weight Two-speed Clutch Housing - DISCONTINUED "

I emailed AE and they said their team drivers experienced major gears chipping problems on the light weight housing (that explain why ppl stripping their gears)

Their answer is because they shaved too much metal off the housing and cause one or more screws that mounted from the 2nd gear onto the housing getting loose, then rub the first spur gear and start wobbling, then strip with the pinion gears......

Their solution is.......use the stock housing.

I think that make sense, however, what do you guys think...?

Rookie Solara

02-11-2003, 01:12 PM

Originally posted by fuse01
Rookie Solara
I have actually tried a lola with the body post mod done to the rear hubs to support the cover.
i found that i needed a harder spring in the rear or i will understeer..
as for gearing, try to fit 4 tooth split with 4 tooth gearing for the best fit, anthing else might end up a strip gear.
for a big high flowing track i like the 21/27 54/48 combo. for tight tracks i run stock gearing ( 5 port engine)
for my sirio 3 port ( very bad low end...) small tracks i run 20/24 54/50 -- all on a 3 shoe clutch and stiff spring.
the only issue i had with the car is tail throwing during powered exit turns.. is there any way top solve this?

Fues01, that make perfect sense.......with the help of the LOLA and the butterfly system, more then enough trackion should be generated to your rear wheels..........however, that has nothing to do with the springs cause (like the Serpent and V1RR setup) your downforce were transfer directly between these 2 items - LOLA body to REAR wheel hubs..........The only time it will transfer to the shock/springs is when you have your body posts mounted on the SHOCK TOWERS........then the downforce from the LOLA will forwarded to the shock towers, then to the shocks, and to the hubs, and to the wheels.

So your UNDER steering problem is not necessary caused by the REAR, is at the front, try lower the shore on your front foam compound, use 40 or 35 oils, 3 holes damper,sway bar stay flat, and softer springs (Red or below).....but of course, your way to do it is also a solution, but you just eliminated the whole idea of using LOLA body, you are not taking advantage of the body.

The LOLA body with body posts on hubs gave you the extra trackion that you need by using downforces from the body, your front understeering is something absolutely normal (that means the LOLA and the system works @ rear). The solution is INCREASE trackion in the front, and that way you can take full advantage of the LOLA and have a great controlled car. But if you change the springs (harder springs) at rear just to decrease the trackion of the rear and make the front gaining trackion, then why use LOLA body to increase rear trackion at the beginning?

Again, I am worrying myself saying too much before actually doing it, and I would love to hear other ppl's opinion.........

One thing I realized yesterday about this idea is.........my rear CAMBER is set at 3 degree....that means the body post will have a camber of 3 degree pointing thru the body, that doesn't make much sense at all...........

Rookie Solara

02-11-2003, 01:36 PM

Originally posted by tallyrc
any downforce created by a wing or body is ultimately transfered to the wheels regardless of where the wing or body attaches.

Yes, of course, at the end of the journey, everything will ended up to the TIRES, because they are the only item that has full contact on the track..........but the different between this system versus the body post on shock towers system is the STEPS of transfer in between.

Typical setting (OEM NTC3 rear setting) - body->body posts->shock tower->shock/springs->suspension arms->rear hubs->rim/tires.

Serpent/V1RR/Butterfly system on NTC3 - body->body posts->rear hubs->rim/tires.

There are at least 3 items(steps) skipped..........that means downforce can be transfer much faster and much more by using Butterfly system then the traditional system. Not to mention, if you look at the typical setting path, one of the item is shock/springs when the SHOCK and springs are under pressure, guess where are they going.........? They are going DOWN, that means it will bring the rear part of the chassis alone with the tires toward the ground. It is true that is also trackion, but rubbing chassis to the ground to create MORE trackion is the last thing you want to do (but believe it or not, Serpent team driver Micheal Salvon actually used the rear chassis rubbing the track methrod to create trackion, but of course, that is just one of the reason why Serpent discontinued Veteq as well).

I think I saw a article from RCTek.com pertaining to this topic....can someone verify that...?

Also, NTC3 cannot have this fancy butterfly system cause the rear hubs of NTC3 are not pointing upward like 705, MTX3 and V1RR, and this system won't work unless NTC3 redesign the rear hubs, WHICH I don't think is necessary (cause one of the reason I like NTC3 is their front steering knuckles are exactly the same as the rear hubs.......much cheaper to replace them)

wrxdan

02-11-2003, 01:42 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I emailed AE and they said their team drivers experienced major gears chipping problems on the light weight housing (that explain why ppl stripping their gears)

Dang! Well we will see how long my spurs last. I already installed the lightweight 2 speed. The lightweight 2 speed does feel flimsy.

Howard, I may have to make my way to your place sometime. I haven't had much time to look into my mis-aligned gears. I thought of shimming out the bell, but didn't know how far I could shim before losing clutch grip. I would say I need 1/8 of an inch to have full engagement. I also want to show how I hopefully added strength to the shock towers.

Rookie Solara

02-11-2003, 03:24 PM

Dan......give me a call first before you swing by, may be this SAT or something....I looked at my car last night and realized the SAME thing, the gears are NOT 100% meshed with the spurs (like 90% only), but like the rest of us here, I don't think that is the problem because I have been driving this NTC3 for at least 5 races last year with the same setting including one 2.4 endurence race........no gear stripping, except I found out last week one of the 2nd speed spur gears screw on the housing was stripped and the screw was loosen up far enough to rub the FIRST spur gear causing the 2nd spur gear wobbling and got some rubbing noise (I was worrying where was that noise came from) - but that has nothing to do about gear meshing.

About your light weight 2-speed - use it, I think it should be OK, but you must do this..........add LOCK TIGHT onto that 3 screws area immediately, as long as one of the screw get loose, it will damage the housing (including the damaging the 1st spur gear)

I will show you the more improved way to do "THE FAX", basicly, it is "THE FAX" but it is a little bit different then your epoxy lock nut version........

Twist 2 Go

02-11-2003, 07:03 PM

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I emailed AE and they said their team drivers experienced major gears chipping problems on the light weight housing (that explain why ppl stripping their gears)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I thought the only gear sthat were being stripped were the diff gears. I have almost a gallon of fuel through mine since I added the LW 2 spd housing and haven't had any problem. Maybe if you change gears alot they might strip. Only gear problem I have had is very tiny rocks get caught in the teeth of the spur gear and messes up the spur gear and pinion gear.

Pro3/nmt105

02-11-2003, 08:48 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I was planning to get the light weight 2-speed housing for my NTC3 cause I just found out my stock housing, one of the screw was stripped........but then I found out AE discontinued this "1701 NTC3 FT Light Weight Two-speed Clutch Housing - DISCONTINUED "

I emailed AE and they said their team drivers experienced major gears chipping problems on the light weight housing (that explain why ppl stripping their gears)

Their answer is because they shaved too much metal off the housing and cause one or more screws that mounted from the 2nd gear onto the housing getting loose, then rub the first spur gear and start wobbling, then strip with the pinion gears......

Their solution is.......use the stock housing.

I think that make sense, however, what do you guys think...? That sux I bought one of those and havent used it yet. mabey ill give it a try and see what it does.

nad138

02-11-2003, 11:46 PM

Hey guys, a newb here.

Got a question I hope you guys could give input to. I got my front/rear on a 2deg. camber angle and a toe in (rear) 2deg. Whenever I gun for the trigger during the backstraight, it seems
to steer itself on the left during acceleration. I'm running on my hobbyshop's track and using a new set of medialpro (IAS) tires. Any ideas why this happens ? Thanks.

thefuzzclub

02-11-2003, 11:54 PM

Planning to buy a new engine for my ntc3. Choosing between OS 12TR and novamega 3p. Please advise recommendations. I plan to race and our track is technical with less straights.

Way2Fast

02-12-2003, 02:34 AM

Originally posted by nad138
Hey guys, a newb here.

Got a question I hope you guys could give input to. I got my front/rear on a 2deg. camber angle and a toe in (rear) 2deg. Whenever I gun for the trigger during the backstraight, it seems
to steer itself on the left during acceleration. I'm running on my hobbyshop's track and using a new set of medialpro (IAS) tires. Any ideas why this happens ? Thanks.

Can you see your wheels turn left if you lift up the car and gun it for a sec?

show2ime

02-12-2003, 10:27 AM

Both are good engines, But I would go with the novamega. The OS is getting some good reviews though. You can't go worng with the nova though. It's reputation is rock solid. And we all know how nova based engines last as far as durability and screaming speed.

nad138

02-12-2003, 10:41 AM

Originally posted by Way2Fast
Can you see your wheels turn left if you lift up the car and gun it for a sec?

On my old tires, I saw that it was wobbling a bit (Factory didn't do a good job gluing it) which I thought was the problem. After 1 of my rims broke, changed all of them. I did that what you suggested prior to running and it seems to be ok. But it still does it. My buddy said that it might be the uneven weight at the rear that's causing the right rear tire to have more traction thereby pushing it slightly to the left when accelerating.

waileun

02-12-2003, 11:35 AM

Originally posted by nad138
On my old tires, I saw that it was wobbling a bit (Factory didn't do a good job gluing it) which I thought was the problem. After 1 of my rims broke, changed all of them. I did that what you suggested prior to running and it seems to be ok. But it still does it. My buddy said that it might be the uneven weight at the rear that's causing the right rear tire to have more traction thereby pushing it slightly to the left when accelerating.

If that's the case, have you tried using the tweak board to check if the car is pressing more on the rear right?

Wai Leun
PS: Just a suggestion.

Pro3/nmt105

02-12-2003, 04:34 PM

sounds like your diffs need adjusting look at the chart in the manual

thefuzzclub

02-12-2003, 07:54 PM

Originally posted by show2ime
Both are good engines, But I would go with the novamega. The OS is getting some good reviews though. You can't go worng with the nova though. It's reputation is rock solid. And we all know how nova based engines last as far as durability and screaming speed.
Hello show2ime,
thanks for the advice, i'm also geared on getting the novamega. by the way, i read your posts in the schumacher fusion thread, more power to you bro.

pilothyer

02-12-2003, 09:03 PM

I am about to switch to foams on my NTC3. I have decided to try JACO NITRO SHOES. On the rear I have the option of either getting 30 mm with or without the offset.......Will the ones without the off set fit the NTC3 without modification? Also which width (maximum) would I use for the front without modification? If there is anyone using them that could answer my questions or add any other comments I would most appreciate it ......

show2ime

02-12-2003, 09:45 PM

Np man. They were ticking me off on the fusion thread, lol

fuse01

02-12-2003, 10:24 PM

anyone tried the ntc3 one way?

does it still strip gears?

what is the part number?

thanks

fastharry

02-12-2003, 10:38 PM

I have the new one way....Its WAy beefier than the old one....Its still cold in NJ..so I haven't tried it yet...BUT the gear has HD handwritten on ythe back...and is a differnnet size than the old gear..

wrxdan

02-12-2003, 11:06 PM

Has anyone mounted a HPI Nissan Silvia GT body on their NTC3? I have a HPI WRX body that doesn't fit well so I hope it's not all HPI bodies. HPI bodies look gooood, to bad there weak.

tOrcHed Lh

02-12-2003, 11:55 PM

I've never ran an HPI body.... but how could they be so much weaker than other brands such as protoform or proline? both use .030" thick lexan....

Striker

02-13-2003, 12:29 AM

I use a HPI Porsche GT3 body on my NTC3. It's not bad. All of their bodies are about 1/4" shorter then the protoform and I think the proline. I just take my time mounting it and not following most of the "cut here" lines.

tOrcHed Lh

02-13-2003, 12:50 AM

i'm looking into lola bodies... what manufacturer's is the most durable? or who even makes them besides Kawahara and Yokomo?

xardjetx

02-13-2003, 02:01 AM

hey wrx your not talking about a rally wrx bod right?? cuz thats what im using right now and it fits perfectly. i cut those on the side front bumper cuz my bumper from the stock tc3 didnt fit but then it soon broke so i bought a rpm one and now i dndt have to cut it out at all! but as you can see the back posts are teeny and i only have space for 1. so the front poles cut out the reg. place that they tell you to and the back do as i did. but you might wnat to cut the holes a little more to the left.

xardjetx

02-13-2003, 02:03 AM

xardjetx

02-13-2003, 02:06 AM

last one. hey i also got a question. i was wondering what are you factory team edition tc3 ppl running? as in which engine? i got a os 12tr and i have to say its been running great. high rpms and NEVER stalled. only when i ran out of fuel lol.

xardjetx

02-13-2003, 02:44 AM

sorry bout that you can disregard my last question imma noob to this forum. haha i just checked and like a bunch of pages are talking about the 12tr okie dok.

nhearnest

02-13-2003, 07:25 AM

I believe serpent has made a 200 mm lola body. I currently have the Yokomo GTP body on my ntc3 and it fits great and has nice downforce.

TopKatz

02-13-2003, 08:06 AM

I sort of in a holding pattern in my kit build up (waiting on a package from HardcoreRacing ). In the mean time I noticed on this site:

http://www.deleos.com/NTC3/NTC3_Tips.htm

that he sugest using this spring in the stearing rack/ servo saver:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2879

is this the way to go?

NTC3NUT

02-13-2003, 08:14 AM

pilothyer,
Use the 30mm rears with the zero offset, up front I think they're 26 or 28mm. I ran 45 shore fronts & 40 shore rears last season, really good tires.

tOrcHed Lh

02-13-2003, 10:08 AM

nhearnest,
yea i already have a yokomo GTP body however I found that i had to cut out the windows to get proper airflow to the engine head. So i wanted a lola that doesnt' require me to do so and would also make it easier accessing things such as the fuel tank.
which do is most the durable lola body?

topkatz,
yea that rc10gt slipper clutch spring IS the way to go. it replaces the servo saver spring and gets rid of the steering play.

TopKatz

02-13-2003, 10:10 AM

nice! thanks!

KronicRacer

02-13-2003, 12:16 PM

Originally posted by TopKatz
I sort of in a holding pattern in my kit build up (waiting on a package from HardcoreRacing ). In the mean time I noticed on this site:

http://www.deleos.com/NTC3/NTC3_Tips.htm

that he sugest using this spring in the stearing rack/ servo saver:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2879

is this the way to go?

i second the use of that spring being used on the steering rack.

out of curiosity what hardcore components are you getting.... im doing a hardcore racing ntc3 ground up project myself.

wrxdan

02-13-2003, 12:21 PM

Originally posted by tOrcHed Lh
topkatz,
yea that rc10gt slipper clutch spring IS the way to go. it replaces the servo saver spring and gets rid of the steering play.

I never thought about my servo gears. I'm using a Futaba S9304 for steering, I think it has plastic gears?? How easy is it to strip out the servo gears when using the slipper clutch spring?

waileun

02-13-2003, 12:54 PM

Originally posted by KronicRacer
i second the use of that spring being used on the steering rack.

out of curiosity what hardcore components are you getting.... im doing a hardcore racing ntc3 ground up project myself.

By the way, what is the purpose of using the spring?

TopKatz

02-13-2003, 12:58 PM

Kronic - I basicaly got all of the drivetrain stuff. Center Bulk, brake block, brake disk, front cup, and motor mounts.

wailen - its to tighten p the servo saver so that high performance servos dont waste there power on engaging the servo saver. This way all the power gos to turning the wheels

Rookie Solara

02-13-2003, 01:03 PM

Originally posted by wrxdan
I never thought about my servo gears. I'm using a Futaba S9304 for steering, I think it has plastic gears?? How easy is it to strip out the servo gears when using the slipper clutch spring?

If your servo gears stripped, that is NOT the servo problem.....I've got the slipper springs on and you SHOULD set the Far left/right steering margin from your RADIO correctly in order for your servo to reach the "JUST RIGHT" distance.....you don't want the servo push too FAR OFF and that will stripped those gear....again, that slipper spring is actually reduced the PLAY of the softer springs, but on the other hand, it reduced the fuction of the SERVO SAVER, it is no longer saving your servo, so proper setting must required.

I think I got the S9303 on my Impact and now ntc3, never gave me a problem....

wrxdan

02-13-2003, 01:18 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
If your servo gears stripped, that is NOT the servo problem.....I've got the slipper springs on and you SHOULD set the Far left/right steering margin from your RADIO correctly in order for your servo to reach the "JUST RIGHT" distance.....you don't want the servo push too FAR OFF and that will stripped those gear....again, that slipper spring is actually reduced the PLAY of the softer springs, but on the other hand, it reduced the fuction of the SERVO SAVER, it is no longer saving your servo, so proper setting must required.

I think I got the S9303 on my Impact and now ntc3, never gave me a problem....

Thanks Howard. I have the endpoints set on the servo. But it will strip out easier in a wreck becuase of the stiffer saver action. Note to self: wreck into the boards nose first:)

Guld

02-13-2003, 02:01 PM

Originally posted by wrxdan
Has anyone mounted a HPI Nissan Silvia GT body on their NTC3? I have a HPI WRX body that doesn't fit well so I hope it's not all HPI bodies. HPI bodies look gooood, to bad there weak.

200mm HPI bodies fit the NTC3 just fine. Right now, I'm using an HPI M5 body on my car (enclosed). The default wheelbase is a couple of mm shorter than our car, but it is very hard to notice and do not represent any type of obstruction for the suspension. On the issue of durability, I've found that these bodies are less durable than, for example, my Protoform 350Z. It's a beautiful and detailed body nonetheless.

http://home.att.net/~srodrigu72/wsb/media/152032/site1013.jpg

Rookie Solara

02-13-2003, 02:42 PM

Dan, yeah, if you are counting the accident on the gear issue, then only GODS know..........so better stay away from those board.

Regarding bodies, I am second on the Protoform bodies......and I will never good back to HPI unless I need something for show only, Protoform are much stronger in race and I have no idea why but there bodies last a little longer then HPI, the easiest way to find that out is the front wheel area, the area just above the front wheels, that can tell the body is good or not.

Just told some pics about my NTC3, did the pipe thing and the "THE FIX" thing, and I got one shock tower just for LOLA body, I try not to say much cause I think I am sick now...later.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003734.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003735.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003736.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003737.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003738.JPG

Rookie Solara

02-13-2003, 02:48 PM

Well, I got a feeling that 2 extra screws does help to prevent the shock towers get popped off.........make sure you add THREAD LOCK onto all 5 of those screws.

Here are the spec.

(4) 4-40 by 1.5" long screws......less then $1.00
(1) Aluminum or brass tube.......I think it is 3/16".....$.50
(4) Blue (or red or whatever color that you want, I am ALL SHOW and NO GO) washer - $6.99 per 12, or you can just use regular washer.....$0.20.

You have to use dremel to shave a little (just a little) of the material off the shock tower in order to slide the tubing inside, then you can cut off the tube and sand the top edge flat.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/thefix/P0003744.jpg

Rookie Solara

02-13-2003, 02:52 PM

wrxdan Regarding the gear mesh, you can compare yours to mine and see is there any difference....after reading your post and I realized that mine is not 100% covered with the spur gears, but like AE said, as long as we'be got more then 80%, that should be fine.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003740.JPG

wrxdan

02-13-2003, 03:56 PM

I swear Rookie, you car changes everytime I see it:) Where are you allowed to run the LOLA body?

Rookie Solara

02-13-2003, 04:13 PM

Originally posted by wrxdan
I swear Rookie, you car changes everytime I see it:) Where are you allowed to run the LOLA body?

Yupe.......that is called "OFF SEASON" or called "WINTER" or "SNOW", when you are locked in the basement and got nothiing to do beside watching Jerry Springers show, playing around the car and take pictures is the only thing left that you can do.

Only thing I haven't do.........WAX and detailing the whole NTC3.

There are no rules against the LOLA body (at least there are NONE from HTOP, Tinley, Venture and AJ here).........however, you cannot use LOLA in national (only approved 200mm TOURING CAR aka 4-doors body allow...).........NTC3 need some modificaiton in order to fit LOLA, and only if necessary, I don't really like the layout of NTC3 with LOLA cause I have to punch too many opening on the LEFT SIDE of the car and none on the right...

BTW, I got my LOLA from Towers thru special discount, ended up cost me like $10.50 only....what a deal.

Drive4fun

02-13-2003, 04:57 PM

Hey all sup?!
Ok well im getting a tc3 but im not sure which should i get the kit or the rtr? im kinda short on budget i mean real short like $400-450 max for now. Im getting it during the summer so what should i get the rtr or the kit i dont think ill have enough money to buy everything i need for the kit with only 400-450 hehe.. ok well im prolly going to start off with the rtr. Im a newbie at nitro and i need to know everything on what to do and what to expect and how to prevent! what are the major problems what should i do to see if everything is ok on my car? A list of things i will need if i want to start racing my car competetive things like what do i need to start racing expect new motor and radio gear like the parts that would normaly brake etc aight thx guys please provide me with a list of what things are good and worth buying for the tc3 nitro..!! k thx guys later

tOrcHed Lh

02-13-2003, 05:30 PM

rookie solara,
what brand lola are you running and how is it working out?

did you have to cut holesout for the tips of the shock tower so the body could mount properly? or did you melt the area around the shock towers?

and lastly, what parts/mods were required to mount those body posts on top of the bumper like you showed in the pics?

thanks

NTC3NUT

02-13-2003, 05:54 PM

rookie, Nice job with the extra screws on the radio plate to keep your reciever pack in position. I've been using 2 zip ties, one in the normal position, and one around the tray to keep the battery pack from sliding out. Now I know what to do with all these extra titanium screws!

Pro3/nmt105

02-13-2003, 07:02 PM

Rookie did u get the parts online? if so what site an could you give me links.(for the fix)

Thanks

us_matrix

02-13-2003, 07:22 PM

Hi Rookie,

I want to do the fix too. Where did you get the blue/purple washer? All we need just 2 pieces 4-40 1.5" screws and brass tube for each case?

us_matrix

02-13-2003, 07:26 PM

Is this the same size of your BRASS TUBE?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXR829&P=7

penggoy

02-13-2003, 10:57 PM

Rookie

Can u pls tell me how did u do to put the pressure nipple on ur pipe? Does it affect ur car's performance?

wrxdan

02-13-2003, 11:19 PM

Here is a pic of my gear mesh. I guess it looks okay?

wrxdan

02-13-2003, 11:22 PM

Here is a pic of my fubared WRX body:(

xardjetx

02-14-2003, 01:06 AM

omg im soo sorry dan i think i mislead you there. i you have to mod the front. sorry man real sorry...:(

waileun

02-14-2003, 04:19 AM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Dan, yeah, if you are counting the accident on the gear issue, then only GODS know..........so better stay away from those board.

Regarding bodies, I am second on the Protoform bodies......and I will never good back to HPI unless I need something for show only, Protoform are much stronger in race and I have no idea why but there bodies last a little longer then HPI, the easiest way to find that out is the front wheel area, the area just above the front wheels, that can tell the body is good or not.

Just told some pics about my NTC3, did the pipe thing and the "THE FIX" thing, and I got one shock tower just for LOLA body, I try not to say much cause I think I am sick now...later.

Hey Rookie,

your NTC3 looks very clean. Is it brand new? If not, you have really maintained it very well.

TopKatz

02-14-2003, 07:47 AM

wrxdan - your first gear mesh does not look good. Looks like your motor is not strait...

wrxdan

02-14-2003, 08:34 AM

Originally posted by TopKatz
wrxdan - your first gear mesh does not look good. Looks like your motor is not strait...

Oh I should explain. I took that pic using my dig video cam. It tends to distort the pic. The engine is as straight as I can get it.

Thanks

TopKatz

02-14-2003, 08:36 AM

It just looks like the first gear is not "square" to the 2speed gear. I would make sure that the mesh is fairly tight, and that there is not to much play in it.

Rookie Solara

02-14-2003, 09:53 AM

wrxdan - yeah, I think you are very close, but something just not quite right, when you swing by, I can do a quick check for you, but DEFINTIELY not today or tomorrow.......6" of snow is not fun to drive your AWD WRX turbo LOL.

OK.....for those of you want to mount LOLA on NTC3, please take a look at my first and third pics about the shock tower, I shaved most of the mounting points on the tower except the last one (use dremel of course), because I think that is the best for LOLA and that is the LOWEST mount point that I can use to mount LOLA without punching 2 holes on the body......no, I am not planning to punch 2 holes on my new body...and no melting.

tOrcHed Lh - I have no idea what parts are those front body post, just some aluminum POS that looks good, but work like the OEM plastic.....eye candy.

NTC3NUT - thats why I am here....sharing my idea to the fellow NTC3 racer.......I think 2 eye candy screws look much better then another zip-ties accross the battery, don't you think..? It is not x'mas gift wrapping, so better be fancy and professional - another eye candy item.

Pro3/nmt105 - NO.....those parts are from my LHS, you can find a full 12" long rod for only 50 cents, and you can split that with your buddies NTC cause all you need is like 6". You can find those 4-40 x 1.5" long screws in any LHS, about those eye candy washer......you don't really need that, but if you guys have problem finding them, I can get them for $6.99 plus shipping for like 12 or 14 each bag.......definitely good enough to cover the entire NTC3....color are blue, silver, red, purple, gold and something else........let me know ONLY if you really really need those eye candy, I don't really want to send something that small.......

us_matrix - yes, (2) 4-40 screws, (2) 5/16" rod and 2 washer on EACH case, total are like $5.00 or less....see above for those blue washers.

penggoy - well, hold on for this MOD, if you know NTC3NUT, he took quite a few pics from Team AE pit pertaining to the WORLD FINAL at OHIO last September, some of the drivers relocate the pressure relief to the upper FRONT part of the pipe, and they claimed that get give more consistant of fuel transferring and idleing......but NO performance gain (like better high or low-end speed)........I did it because I want to add the pressure nipple for security issue, so I might as well try this new setting......since I have to punch new opening and close old opening....I use drill, and of course, JB-Weld to mount the new pressure elbow nipple....but like I said, I think the different is very minimal compare to the stock setting, if you are not handy enough of using JB weld or drilling holes, don't do it, cause each pipe is almost $50.

waileun - I brought my NTC3 used from someone, it was a side exhuast kit, and raced that 5 races and (1) 2.4 hour endurence race.....broke lots of parts before, so it is no new kits, but personally, I am a CLEAN FREAK, I brush my car after every heat and race, and open up everything and clean after every race day..........and don't forget, we have WINTER break, that is the real cleaing about, if I want to, I can clean and wax every single screw and nuts on the NTC3....actually, I cleaned my NTC3 2 times already in this winter even though I didn't even start the engine on this car in this winter period....just got nothing better to do beside cleaning.

If I can answer any question, please let me know.......

spenzalii

02-14-2003, 01:52 PM

Any question?
Why is the sky Blue?
Why is Water wet?

Ok seriously. I'be been following this thread pretty much from page 45 or so, in the hopes of gleaning all I could about this car if (when) I get one. The one thing I haven't quite figured out yet is, what is the 'fix' for? I see what you used, and instructions are burried somewhere in the thread, but the reason for it has escaped me. Call me slow, just not late for dinner.:rolleyes:

And by the looks of it, if I got the aluminum cases from RD Logics, I wouldn't need the 'fix', for whatever reason that is. And is that what Ofna was making a dig at in their ad for the LD3?

waileun

02-14-2003, 03:05 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara

waileun - I brought my NTC3 used from someone, it was a side exhuast kit, and raced that 5 races and (1) 2.4 hour endurence race.....broke lots of parts before, so it is no new kits, but personally, I am a CLEAN FREAK, I brush my car after every heat and race, and open up everything and clean after every race day..........and don't forget, we have WINTER break, that is the real cleaing about, if I want to, I can clean and wax every single screw and nuts on the NTC3....actually, I cleaned my NTC3 2 times already in this winter even though I didn't even start the engine on this car in this winter period....just got nothing better to do beside cleaning.

If I can answer any question, please let me know....... [/B]

Since you strip your car apart very often, isn't there an increase risk to strip the threading of the screw hole? Someone has advice me not do so, but like you, I like a clean car. But I'm just afraid to spoil the parts if I take them apart too often. What do you think?

nad138

02-14-2003, 03:26 PM

Originally posted by waileun
Since you strip your car apart very often, isn't there an increase risk to strip the threading of the screw hole? Someone has advice me not do so, but like you, I like a clean car. But I'm just afraid to spoil the parts if I take them apart too often. What do you think?

I've noticed this when I was taking off my hub carrier alot when setting my rear diffs. The force I needed to drive the screw back on was much more compared to now. What's a good thread locking solution for a non-metal-to-metal without permanently locking it together ?

KronicRacer

02-14-2003, 03:31 PM

Originally posted by waileun
Since you strip your car apart very often, isn't there an increase risk to strip the threading of the screw hole? Someone has advice me not do so, but like you, I like a clean car. But I'm just afraid to spoil the parts if I take them apart too often. What do you think?

its all about the finess on how you screw the allens in. also its the quality of your tools.

spenzalii

the fix.... it is what it is.. an alternative to the rd logics parts . its a cheaper and lighter solution to implement the fix than it is to use the rd logic cases which are heavier, but stonger. damn catch 22's:D

Rookie Solara

02-14-2003, 05:01 PM

Rookie Solara

02-14-2003, 05:14 PM

That is the LOLA body I've got, the cheapest LOLA I have ever seen, no sticker, but pretty strong plastic (like Protoform)....I ordered it from Towers.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/r/rccc0217.jpg

tOrcHed Lh

02-14-2003, 05:36 PM

Racer's Choice right?:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSN8&P=7

penggoy

02-14-2003, 05:43 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara

penggoy - well, hold on for this MOD, if you know NTC3NUT, he took quite a few pics from Team AE pit pertaining to the WORLD FINAL at OHIO last September, some of the drivers relocate the pressure relief to the upper FRONT part of the pipe, and they claimed that get give more consistant of fuel transferring and idleing..........

whats the part # of the pressure nipple that you put on your pipe? I have to put pressure nipple on my pipe so its easier for me to attach my fuel line to my exhaust pipe (and also like you said security issue) and Im not relocating the hole anymore since you told me there's no performance gain in doing that. thnx

Rookie Solara

02-14-2003, 06:10 PM

Yes, that body is from Racer choice, not brand name item, but again, CHEAP is what I want cause I still don't know LOLA is any good on NTC3.

Also yes, I ordered the 90 degree pressure nipple from towers, use the search and find the right one, as long as they are 90 degree and for RC car return pressure fitting, that should work.

However, I think there might be some technical issue on installing a elbow nipple onto the existing opening, cause that hole is WAY bigger (almost 2 times bigger) then the elbow fitting, I am not sure how you can use JB weld to HOLD that nipple by dropping into the hole too far, and I believed JB does not get dry for at least 6-8 hours minimum........unless you want to HOLD that nipple for 8 hours........beside drilling a new hole and closing the existing one, I don't know how you can JB weld that nipple.

One solution is use HOT GLUE to hold the nipple, then use JB weld around it, when you race your car, the hot glue will melt in no time, but the JB weld will not....that is the ONLY way I can think of.........or you can actually WELD it....but very tought on alum.

penggoy

02-14-2003, 06:39 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara

Also yes, I ordered the 90 degree pressure nipple from towers, use the search and ...
thnx a lot

DOOD

02-14-2003, 08:14 PM

here's my pipe setup.....

spenzalii

02-15-2003, 06:00 PM

OK, so the 'fix' is to keep the diff case from breaking, or to strenthen the shock tower? I'm still a bit confused.

OutKast

02-15-2003, 06:12 PM

I just got my Ntc3 rtr yesterday. And I have a stupid question, and i will probably regret asking it but here it goes...What is the Blue ribbon thing that comes in the RTR package? Ive looked in the manual and cant find any use for it? i figured it has a purpose, but for the life of me cant figure out what it is for? Thanks.

mugenracer123

02-15-2003, 06:16 PM

i just bought an rb rear exhast. mark pavidis won the worleds with an rb with a mr12 truck head it looks like. do you know if that is the head that he used or not?

fastharry

02-15-2003, 07:48 PM

Baker wins 200mm class
Barry Baker has driven his TC3 to victory in the very first 1/10 200mm final ever at the Winter Nationals. But it was Burch with his Serpent 705 who took command early in the final, but fuel problems spoiled his chances to turn his early lead into victory, and finished 3rd behind Kenji Osaka with Mugen.

:D :D :D :D :D :D

and to the "we're gonna stomp all over the TC3"former tc3 now MTX 3 owners...

:p :p :p :p :p :p :

Distro

02-15-2003, 09:11 PM

I went down to see it as i'm only 2 hours away, well worth it. Barry got a good start 4th to 2nd, Osaka got the shaft getting hit 2 times and coming out of the first turn from the starting grid in 9th! Anyway Barry made a great pass on Ralph to take the lead and from there he pulled away. After 20 minutes he clipped the wall, which is highway GUARD rail. VERY stiff stuff, makes a huge noise when you hit it, and he poped out a rear toe link had to come in and get that fixed, he came out 2 laps down. Barry started driving really hard trying to catch up and within 6 minutes he unlapped himself once. He kept pushing and unlapped himself again and then Ralph started screwing up and flipped over twice allowing Barry and Osaka by him. With 4 minutes to go Barry was right behind Osaka, pushing him hard. Then with 2 minutes to go Osaka felt the pressure and turned in too early and ran into the plastic flap that extends from the guard rail (bendable nylon strip they bend around and bolt to the guard rail) and fliped upside down allowing Barry by. On the last lap Barry even came in to top off and he finished in 1st.

Oh yeah, Burch didn't even finish third, not sure why they said he did he finished behind the new Schumacher R12 driven by Andy Wallis

fastharry

02-16-2003, 12:00 AM

this is Mike meyers report off starting grid..

In the 200mm class Barry Baker built up a three to four lap lead, but
with nobody pressuring him, and Barry on cruise mode, he made a mistake
and the steering and throttle linkage came off his NTC3. This was
quickly fixed in the pits, but Barry lost his lead to Ralph and Kenji.
Barry took off trying to make up lost ground. Ralph meanwhile had
tuning problems, costing him the lead. As the race neared the end, it
was Barry fighting Kenji. Barry seemed to have more power, and as the
two cars entered the 180 in front of timing and scoring, Kenji bumped
the board and rolled over, as Barry stayed clean and took a commanding
lead for the few remaining minutes.

waileun

02-16-2003, 02:55 AM

Anyone using the 3PK on the NTC3 knows what the phone jack is for? There isn't any description of it in the manual. Any idea?

kreidel1

02-16-2003, 08:05 AM

Any of you guys mind posting your setups? I am curious what some people run as I have tried a ton of different setups. I have found some that work great and some that wont work....at least for me, but everyone is different. I let my friend drive my car in practice and he hated it but I thought it was awesome and I even TQ'ed with it. And ifyour one of those whackos that think its too top secret than never mind. Thanks

Kevin

fastharry

02-16-2003, 08:11 AM

I'm looking at my 3PK..where's the phone jack?..

Twist 2 Go

02-16-2003, 09:45 AM

Originally posted by waileun
Anyone using the 3PK on the NTC3 knows what the phone jack is for? There isn't any description of it in the manual. Any idea?

I don't own one but could it be a charger port for the batteries, if you are using rechargable batteries

nitrojunkee

02-16-2003, 10:32 AM

any one using a ready start for there ntc3? if so i wondered how you have it set up, i have swithced the polarity already but wonder if i need to re ground the green wire to the motor plate?

waileun

02-16-2003, 10:47 AM

Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
I don't own one but could it be a charger port for the batteries, if you are using rechargable batteries

The phone jack is on the on the same side of the wheel, on the left side of the battery tray.

It is not the charger port. The charger port is on the top together with another port which I suppose is for discharging.

I plug a earphone to it, but hear no sound.

fastharry

02-16-2003, 11:12 AM

that is a phone jack.....I looked in my old 3pjs manual also,nothing in there either(it has one too....)...but somewhere I remember reading it is to hear beeps only....

try emailing HOBBICO and see if they can help..

also,the other one that says DSC is for a dsc cord,NOT discharge..thats on page 5...on certain recievers you can connect the transmitter to teh reciver with a DSC cord and change settings with the transmitter off....

penggoy

02-16-2003, 11:28 AM

hi guys can u pls help me out. I disassemble and change the front ballcups on my steering (2 front and 1 connected to servo). But when I put my radio tray back into my NTC3 I hear sound coming out of my steering servo (ko 2173). But when I disconnected my servo from the steering linkage I cant hear anymore sound.Could it be the steering turnbuckles (left and right) are too tight? Or the turnbuckle connected to my servo is the problem? thnx

waileun

02-16-2003, 11:55 AM

Originally posted by penggoy
hi guys can u pls help me out. I disassemble and change the front ballcups on my steering (2 front and 1 connected to servo). But when I put my radio tray back into my NTC3 I hear sound coming out of my steering servo (ko 2173). But when I disconnected my servo from the steering linkage I cant hear anymore sound.Could it be the steering turnbuckles (left and right) are too tight? Or the turnbuckle connected to my servo is the problem? thnx

Are you using a digital servo? If so, it seems that that is normal. I have a digital servo and it makes noise too. And according to many it is normal.

penggoy

02-16-2003, 12:16 PM

Originally posted by waileun
Are you using a digital servo? If so, it seems that that is normal. I have a digital servo and it makes noise too. And according to many it is normal.
its not digital. ko propo 2173 is analog.

Distro

02-16-2003, 02:59 PM

The jack is more likely a DSC connection (direct servo connection) it allows you to connect to your reciever without turning your transmitter on to transmit, allowing you to tune your car without interfearing with other racers

Distro

02-16-2003, 03:06 PM

The setup i have been using is:
Front-
stocks at the lowest holes on the shockbars
inside holes on the a arm to mount the lower part of the shocks
5.50mm spacing between the hub and the a arm for the lower pivotball
copper springs and 40 weight oil with the number 2 piston
zero degree toe and 2.5 degree camber with 40 shore 28mm tires
7mm droop
61mm tire diameter
stock setup for the front diff
atleast 3mm ride height in the front

rear-
2.5 degree toe in, 3.5 degrees on camber, and 40 shore 30mm tires
I spaced the lower pivot ball with the spacer tool that comes with the car also
The shock setup in the rear is the same as the front
stock setup for the rear diff
i took out the droop screws in the rear, lets the car take a fast sweeper easier.
atleast 5mm ride height in the rear

You will have to adjust the shock collars to achieve the right ride height also.

nitrojunkee

02-16-2003, 08:31 PM

Ive finally got my NTC3 together. Im stoked, put in a Sirio .12 outlaw. Anybody running this engine? any tips?

lbckevin

02-16-2003, 10:36 PM

Congrats to Barry Baker ......WInter Champ..

Go Nitro TC3 !!!!!!

waileun

02-17-2003, 05:51 AM

Originally posted by Distro
The setup i have been using is:
Front-
stocks at the lowest holes on the shockbars
inside holes on the a arm to mount the lower part of the shocks
5.50mm spacing between the hub and the a arm for the lower pivotball
copper springs and 40 weight oil with the number 2 piston
zero degree toe and 2.5 degree camber with 40 shore 28mm tires
7mm droop
61mm tire diameter
stock setup for the front diff
atleast 3mm ride height in the front

rear-
2.5 degree toe in, 3.5 degrees on camber, and 40 shore 30mm tires
I spaced the lower pivot ball with the spacer tool that comes with the car also
The shock setup in the rear is the same as the front
stock setup for the rear diff
i took out the droop screws in the rear, lets the car take a fast sweeper easier.
atleast 5mm ride height in the rear

You will have to adjust the shock collars to achieve the right ride height also.

Hi Distro,
what about your castor?

Distro

02-17-2003, 09:27 PM

castor is equal.

OutKast

02-18-2003, 10:07 PM

what is the best/best bang for your buck rx pack to use with the carbon fiber radio tray? dynamite, trinity etc? thanks

cbr74

02-18-2003, 10:35 PM

OFN 10211 1000mah 6.0V 5 Cell Nimh $19.99

R/C Boyz (http://www.rcboyz.com/index.php)

wrxdan

02-18-2003, 10:57 PM

Well here is the finished product. Turned out better then I thought, but not good. Painting in 10 degree weather suxs! Lesson learned.

http://home.earthlink.net/~wrxdan/

thefuzzclub

02-19-2003, 02:42 AM

Anyone who have tried sirio .12 engine to their tcr3? Just wanted to know if it's easy to tune and if it holds tuning for a long time.
Is it better than a Nova, MT12, OSTR? Our track is more technical and less straights. Need your inputs before I buy it. Thanks.

nitrojunkee

02-19-2003, 10:18 AM

Hey fuz, I have one of these in my ntc3. just fired it up yesterday, man what a bear that thing was to start. This is my first race type engine and man this thing sounds cool. i barely touch the throttle, and wham ! it raps so quick. after i get it broken in ill let you know about any adjustments ive found.

Rookie Solara

02-19-2003, 10:27 AM

Originally posted by wrxdan
Well here is the finished product. Turned out better then I thought, but not good. Painting in 10 degree weather suxs! Lesson learned.

http://home.earthlink.net/~wrxdan/

Still looking good............but please add that STi spoiler at the back, if you could, you should take some pics SIDE BY SIDE with your real time WRX.......that would be cool........

Btw, ready for the season......? And when are you ususally go to race.......? SAT and SUNDAY? Let me know........

Rookie Solara

02-19-2003, 10:37 AM

Originally posted by thefuzzclub
Anyone who have tried sirio .12 engine to their tcr3? Just wanted to know if it's easy to tune and if it holds tuning for a long time.
Is it better than a Nova, MT12, OSTR? Our track is more technical and less straights. Need your inputs before I buy it. Thanks.

I think to choose engine for your NTC3 is the easiest part.....setting the car up that work with your engine, THAT is something........

I never tried SIRIO, but I heard nothing but GOOD STUFF from it, for something like $150, and got the RACE performance, Sirio definitely is one to choose from. However, if you are more concern about tunning, OS should be on the top of the list.....my NTC3 with a used $99 OS CVR (buggy engine) can actually race against ppl with JP, Coralli and Nova Rossi engine.........it is NOT that the CVR is that powerfull, it is exactly like you said, we were racing in a tight short track that High Rev and HP are NOT the key.......low-end torque to everything.........so consider the OS TR as well, OS is very well known of EASY tunning, they also came with spec about standard needle setting (engines like Nova Rossi and other expansive high end engine WILL NOT give you that) so you can start from the standard setting and work itself up.....and the TR series is probably the best of OS series (in .12 engine) and tons of ppl try it and loving it........

Again, for $150, and on the NTC3, I don't see ppl have those $250 plus mod motor can have ANY ADVANTAGE over these engine like MT-12, TR and Sirio............on 200mm TC, things are a little different then 1/10 235mm and those 1/8th big block.....

My pick........OS TR, MT-12 then Sirio (since Sirio SG crank on NTC3 required some small modification)....their spec and price are very much the same.

wrxdan

02-19-2003, 10:43 AM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Still looking good............but please add that STi spoiler at the back, if you could, you should take some pics SIDE BY SIDE with your real time WRX.......that would be cool........

Btw, ready for the season......? And when are you ususally go to race.......? SAT and SUNDAY? Let me know........

HAAHAA I knew the spoiler would be mentioned. Yes I still need to mount it. HPI gives ugly screws to hold it down, I'm looking for better looking mounting hardware. I might just uses servo tape since it's not a race body.

SAT only, so I guess I'm at HTOP. But I do get a bunch of days off work. So maybe take the day off sometime and run at Tinley on a week night. I have been meaning to make a trip to HTOP to check out the store. From what I understand HTOP is a drivers track and Tinley is a HP track. Right? I'm almost ready, haven't fired it up yet. I still need to buy spare parts and foams. Call me weird, but I have a superstition about foams. I don't buy my tires until the week before the race. They always seem to get harder when they sit over the winter??

Oh I may run at HT Saint Charles because it's so close to my house.

Sadly the wife/daughter makes the final say when I run:(

nitrojunkee

02-19-2003, 11:42 AM

My pick........OS TR, MT-12 then Sirio (since Sirio SG crank on NTC3 required some small modification)....their spec and price are very much the same.

what modification? mine went right in. please elaborate, im curious now. thanks.

Rookie Solara

02-19-2003, 12:28 PM

Is your SIrio a SG crank (the long one) or the standard crank....? Or you just simply cut the shaft........?

That is what I heard from some Sirio user with SG crank engine, the thread is a little longer then typical, and that caused the clutch bell housing extended a little too far, and the end screw need to add some spacers in order to NOT lock tight the housing.

That is what I heard (you can see this issue on back pages, like somewhere between 80-100)......if you have standard crank or cutted your shaft, you are fine.

Rookie Solara

02-19-2003, 12:34 PM

Originally posted by wrxdan
Sadly the wife/daughter makes the final say when I run:(

Oh god......I can see myself in couple years......WIFE DAUGHTER/SON thing.........AHAHHAHAHHhhhhhhhhhhhhh.........

Race HTOP this year first, you will love it, and you won't feel a lot of pressure there, cause you only race me and watch me passing you 15 or 20 times.............(just kidding).

Tinley is the big show.....may be next year, you should be ready, good thing you DO have a car that is more then enough for TINLEY, if you run a HPI, stay at HTOP.

Yeah, I was trying to go to HT St Charles, like 20 minutes from Elmhurst as well, but from what I heard, they are very un-orgainized, small turnout, and boring track layout, but never say never, they might change that this year, if times permitted, I can tag along with you and others and check them out.

Last year I raced one time at the other HT at........I forgot, it is further WEST to St-Charles location........that was a nightmare. I don't even want to mention that.

wrxdan

02-19-2003, 01:07 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Last year I raced one time at the other HT at........I forgot, it is further WEST to St-Charles location........that was a nightmare. I don't even want to mention that.

howard I PM ya to spare the rest of the people here.

nitrojunkee

02-19-2003, 01:26 PM

Is your SIrio a SG crank (the long one) or the standard crank....? Or you just simply cut the shaft........?

I have an sg crank , didnt cut it , the kit comes with enough spacers for the pilot shaft screw, i only used 2. And i aways use locktite one that screw, on any engine(that uses that set up). pinion housing spins perfect, and there were no alignment issues.

Rookie Solara

02-19-2003, 02:47 PM

Originally posted by nitrojunkee
I have an sg crank , didnt cut it , the kit comes with enough spacers for the pilot shaft screw, i only used 2. And i aways use locktite one that screw, on any engine(that uses that set up). pinion housing spins perfect, and there were no alignment issues.

Ok....I was just calling out those who had problem with Sirio engine before, I never got one, so I really don't know the details, if you can post some pictures here and share you idea, you are more then welcome to do so, cause I know a lot of ppl are thinking about Sirio but stop because it is new.......may be you and the others can turn this around.

thefuzzclub

02-19-2003, 09:09 PM

Originally posted by nitrojunkee
Hey fuz, I have one of these in my ntc3. just fired it up yesterday, man what a bear that thing was to start. This is my first race type engine and man this thing sounds cool. i barely touch the throttle, and wham ! it raps so quick. after i get it broken in ill let you know about any adjustments ive found.
i look forward to your feedback once you broke in the engine. good luck.

thefuzzclub

02-19-2003, 09:13 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara

My pick........OS TR, MT-12 then Sirio (since Sirio SG crank on NTC3 required some small modification)....their spec and price are very much the same.
Rookie Solara,
Well noted with thanks. I do appreciate your time to reply. More power to your NTC3.

nitrojunkee

02-19-2003, 11:35 PM

Just got 3 tanks through today. Ran it for a few laps down at a local track here, there were a couple impulses, one rs4 ss, and a nitro 4tec. Still ran it fairly rich, but man this engine is a monster. I was sure i read somwhere on this forum that this engine lacked low end? uh....no. I could come out of a corner going in to the long straight at half throttle and blast by the one serpent which was running a mt-12, with no problem. The other serpent was running a black pixy and was pretty quick, but i do however think i could at least keep up with it when im fully broken in and leaned out. My settings never fluctuated and ran very consistant. So for now seems that my $165 dollars was well worth it !!!

Pro3/nmt105

02-20-2003, 12:11 AM

Just thought Id clear this up the sirio sg crank dosnt require any modifications! I used the three washers that came with the kit on the screw that holds the clutch bell in and it spins freely with no problems. The only thing you might want to do is get a longer screw to hold the clutch bell on but its not absolutly nessecary, I just wanted it to grip more threads.

thefuzzclub

02-20-2003, 12:26 AM

Originally posted by nitrojunkee
Just got 3 tanks through today. Ran it for a few laps down at a local track here, there were a couple impulses, one rs4 ss, and a nitro 4tec. Still ran it fairly rich, but man this engine is a monster. I was sure i read somwhere on this forum that this engine lacked low end? uh....no. I could come out of a corner going in to the long straight at half throttle and blast by the one serpent which was running a mt-12, with no problem. The other serpent was running a black pixy and was pretty quick, but i do however think i could at least keep up with it when im fully broken in and leaned out. My settings never fluctuated and ran very consistant. So for now seems that my $165 dollars was well worth it !!!
That's great! Keep on racing bro! If no one will contradict me in getting a sirio, I will probably get one this weekend at US$160. Wish me good luck too.

InitialD

02-20-2003, 12:54 AM

Originally posted by fastharry
that is a phone jack.....I looked in my old 3pjs manual also,nothing in there either(it has one too....)...but somewhere I remember reading it is to hear beeps only....

Yes, it is to hear beeps when the battery on the Tx is starting to dump or when you use the timer function on the Tx.

Rookie Solara

02-20-2003, 11:15 AM

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Just thought Id clear this up the sirio sg crank dosnt require any modifications! I used the three washers that came with the kit on the screw that holds the clutch bell in and it spins freely with no problems. The only thing you might want to do is get a longer screw to hold the clutch bell on but its not absolutly nessecary, I just wanted it to grip more threads.

Thanks for clear that up.........now I can put Sirio SG crank under "future engine" list on my NTC3, really want to see how GOOD that is...........

Rookie Solara

02-20-2003, 11:19 AM

BARRY BAKER himself was spotted at RCTECH answering question about WInter National and NTC3........go there and read all the thread from him.........very very usefull and interesting

He also mentioned several items that AE is planning to release, such as the REAR toe lock system (He said MAY BE), new material for the 1-way and diff gears (released I think) and all new material for all spurs and pinion gears and housing (that is NEW)

Beside that, he will post his setting and engine that he used.....you must read the entire WInter National thread and the Barry Baker Q&A thread.......

waileun

02-20-2003, 12:13 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
BARRY BAKER himself was spotted at RCTECH answering question about WInter National and NTC3........go there and read all the thread from him.........very very usefull and interesting

He also mentioned several items that AE is planning to release, such as the REAR toe lock system (He said MAY BE), new material for the 1-way and diff gears (released I think) and all new material for all spurs and pinion gears and housing (that is NEW)

Beside that, he will post his setting and engine that he used.....you must read the entire WInter National thread and the Barry Baker Q&A thread.......

Hi Rookie,

do you have the link to the site? are you refering to www.rctek.com?

Rookie Solara

02-20-2003, 01:59 PM

No......this is RcTech. (RcTek is the other great site for RC)

Here is the link.......you must signed up as a member to read I think......

RcTech forum (http://www.rctech.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=3)

Enjoy...........

kellhound99

02-20-2003, 01:59 PM

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Ok....I was just calling out those who had problem with Sirio engine before, I never got one, so I really don't know the details, if you can post some pictures here and share you idea, you are more then welcome to do so, cause I know a lot of ppl are thinking about Sirio but stop because it is new.......may be you and the others can turn this around.

I bought the Siro (standard threaded crank) thinking I would avoid some of the problems I heard about earlier with the SG crank. I regret my desision.

Associated sends two flywheel/clutch nuts with the non-rtr kits. One for the SG crank and one for aSHORT threaded crank. Notice I said short. If you take a look at the standard shaft for a Picco.12 and compare it to... oh... lets say a RBConcepts .12 you will see that the Picco has a shorter shaft than the RB.

So not only do you have to cut the crank on the standard Siro shaft, you have to ream out the flywheel nut as well because the shank on the shaft extends out further than a short shaft engine (prohibiting the nut from tightening the flywheel down to the collet.

Pics will best explain. I will attach some when I get home.