What are the best???!!!

[TRAXXAS]

What are the best batteries that are the best in racing...please I really need feedback on this one...and possibly the prices to...<Splat>

[bambino]

I'd go with 2400mah sanyo cells. An example would be a trinity racing pack would cost about 46 and a matched pack would cost ya about 68

[Isky]

You dang newbie...there is no best battery...
it all depends on the motor and gearing.

[tc3guy]

There may be no best battery but certainly there are batteries that outperform others. Like a 2400 matched pack will out perform a 1500 unmatched pack.

[ZenLosi]

Isky's right, there is no best battery. You should shoot out some more information on the type of racing and/or car you have and maybe someone can give you a better answer.

-Zen

[rvrrun]

There may be no best battery but certainly there are batteries that outperform others. Like a 2400 matched pack will out perform a 1500 unmatched pack.

I think I understand what you mean, that matched is better than unmatched, but the above statement is not necessarily true.

A higher Mah NiCad will give more run time at the cost of voltage. So a 1500 unmatched might actually outperform a 2400 matched if we are referring to power output and not runtime. If anyone wants insight into the electrochemistry behind this, let me know and I'll be happy to post further.

If you are running 2400's, for example, and find yourself with extra runtime at the end of a race, then a lower Mah batt might net some more power.

the above example assumes the car is geared correctly

MS

[FilthyPierre]

It's certainly a topic for debate, no doubt lots of people will have their favourite brand. But in the end, most NiCd batteries used in R/C are made by Sanyo (NiMh are made by Panasonic and Sanyo). Companies like Trinity, Reedy, Fantom, etc etc take the cells from Sanyo, run them through cyclers and test them to see how long their run-time and voltage levels are. They then take cells of similar runtime and voltage and package them together as "matched" cells. They're more expensive than non-matched cells but will give you better performance in the long run. Look in RCCA you'll find ads in there for batteries. The matched ones will always be more expensive. Stick packs usually don't have matched cells. The best you can hope for in a stick pack are "zapped" cells. Zapping is a method of pumping high current into the cell for a very short period (a zap). It's supposed to make them perform better....
One thing to remember - the higher current output cells tend to also have a higher voltage especially when fully charged. This give them more "punch" at least for a short while. I've found that if I use my 1700 packs during qualifying and a 2000 in the final, my car has a lot more punch for the first few laps of the final - this is not necessarily a good thing however, as the car is more powerful and takes a different approach to driving.
If you can afford matched cells, go for them. If you're not into assembling them yourself and prefer stick packs, go for packs where you can see the cells inside, make sure they're Sanyo and zapped.

[prime]

I think TRAXXAS is looking for a brand or vendor rather than a academic debate.

I think you'll find there are several companies out there matching cells for race packs and here are a few that come to mind:
http://www.integy.com http://www.teamtrinity.com

Those are my two first choices although Integy has good prices and an online store for you to buy from.

[SteveP]

I think the academic debate is more useful, otherwise this thread will turn into a "my sponsors batteries are the best" or "I buy these batteries, therefore they're the best" argument. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[Aussie_Man]

I have the same kinda prblem at the moment. I race a kind of Stock class (in australia we use the same kind of motors that come with tamiya kits) and am looking to buy some good 2400's or 2000's. I really like the Fantom cells but what brand of 2000's do you reckon are the best.

[TufferWilde]

In all honesty guys, if you go out and buy sport packs, you will more than likely end up having just as much fun as someone who went out and bought 1.17's with 360 seconds of run time. If you are going to be running stock, especially off-road, the numbers will not make as big of a difference as everyone thinks. If the added power is not able to be put to the dirt or pavement, the added 80 bucks in a pack will be wasted on anything other than pit racing!!!

I cannot remember a time that I lost a race due to a battery pack (unless I forgot to charge it), the added .3 cumulative volt will not come into play unless you run absolutely perfect races.

Steve is correct in that we can all spout off who we think is better, because that is who we use. Remember that all of the cells come from the same places, it is just different people putting them together!!

[FactoryTeam Guy wannabe]

Here is what I think, If you have the money go out tand get yourself a good "zapped" or "spiked" matched set of 2400's I bought a pack of world class batteriesand they are great and the run time is very high and they voltage is also great on them because I bought the "spiked" cells. anyway you can check them out here www.worldclassbats.com (http://www.worldclassbats.com)

[FactoryTeam Guy wannabe]

Here is what I think, If you have the money go out tand get yourself a good "zapped" or "spiked" matched set of 2400's I bought a pack of world class batteriesand they are great and the run time is very high and they voltage is also great on them because I bought the "spiked" cells. anyway you can check them out here www.worldclassbats.com (http://www.worldclassbats.com)