DAMN not again!

[Demon-TC3]

Hi guys,
Ok so i just sprayed up my second shell, the first shell flaked to peices after about 3 runs and i later found that it was too cold when i painted so the paint didnt stick...

Now, my second shell, i washed the shell very thoroughly with dish soap, scrubbed the hell out of it with steel wool, and washed it again then dried it...

then i sprayed on very light coats of paint (fron a can) and it is apparently suitable for polycarb, blasted it with a hairdryer, left it outside for about 10 mins untill it was dry, then sprayed another layer, (about 4 layers all together)
it was a fairly hot day so the paint dried very fast..now the problem is, AGAIN it has not worked, as soon as i flick the shell i see white web-like lines from where the paint is about to flake off...this is really frustrating as i have no idea why its happening...what have i done wrong???? is the paint just a complete load of Crap?


Cheers guys,
Demon..

[davec-nitro-rs4]

what brand of paint are you using?

[Demon-TC3]

Its humbrol Modellers (airfix) spray paint, it says suitable for polycarbonate...guess not...i think it means it wont eat away at it but wont stick to it either...

It was the only one at the local model shop, i think next time i will go for some tamiya spray...

[hijacker]

Polycarbonate is not lexan. That paint is suitable for hard plastic models, not flexible r/c bodies. The paint is your problem. You need to buy paint that works with lexan.

Chad

[Demon-TC3]

Really? i thought it was exactly the same stuff??

Yea i had figured it was the paint, my friend who painted with me came back today with a more or less clear body :O so..thats a bummer huh?

[hijacker]

If you are able to get all the paint out, just repaint the bodies with lexan paint. I've heard that nitro fuel and spray on oven cleaner (Easy Off maybe?) will take the paint off.

[Demon-TC3]

i will see if the paint servives the meeting, if not i will get some new paint and re-spray.

(P.S lexan is a form of polycarb)
i think when it said suitable for polycarb it meant it wont eat through it...just doesnt stick to it either!

[AKASHA]

brake fluid works wonders when removing paint and wont eat the plastic.lexan

[losiguy1090]

Did you use a cover coat? I find it works best if you spray on clear enamel(found at any hardware store) after you paint, because it goes on like a ROCK. Since I started using this, my bodies have lasted so much longer. I can now use them till they're too cracked to be used, not when the paint chips off after 3 runs, lol. For some extra protection, put some battery strapping tape on the inside of the body in high wear spots. Combine those 2 things, and your paint will NEVER chip.

[LD3Furious]

Lexan is polycarbonate. Lexan is simply a brand name. Like Kleenex. It is tissue, just a brand name of tissue. As for spray cans...don't settle on anything less than Pactra. Best in the biz. I have used some Tamiya and Testors cans with success, but still.

[Demon-TC3]

yea i thik the spray is totally garbage, as for protection im using "helicopter tape" appaerntly its a type of tape used on the leaning edges of helicopter blades to stop them splitting, one of the sponsored drivers at the local track had some in his bits and gave me some... basically you stick it on (very low tac) then blast it with some very high heat...i had a lighter - blowtorch and it works...


Cheers all for the help,
Demon

[mikevillena]

Hi. Just some thoughts.... I've personally tried a few different paint formulations, often with disastrous results. Experience (an quite a few ruined shells and lots of wasted money) has taught me to stay with Tamiya Polycaronate spray. Period. You can clear coat, cover coat and tape it to high heaven but nothing will prevent you paint from chipping or peeling if the base paint is NOT compatible with polycarbonate. Don't waste you time or money on anything else. If the correct paint isn't available immediately simply wait until it is. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with the clean up and your future paintjobs.

[CarbonMadness]

Polycarbonate is not lexan. That paint is suitable for hard plastic models, not flexible r/c bodies. The paint is your problem. You need to buy paint that works with lexan.

Chad
Really :eek:

Read this then
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycarbonate
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexan

:wave:

[dz1_2006]

Check to see if it is enamel paint, it takes forever to dry even as the outer shell appears hard. Pactra paint is a laquer based product and dries almost instantly, unless if you spray too close. Use the brake fluid or oven cleaner may work also. Just remember to be in a ventilated area.

[gkcontra]

brake fluid works wonders when removing paint and wont eat the plastic.lexan

Depending on how long you keep your bodies thats not exactly right. After about a year the lexan will become very brittle and start cracking.

[balang_479]

yeah im using polycarbonate with no problems...

[Demon-TC3]

yea, i will pick up some tamiya paints and re-paind it. my friend just tols me that his paint was pretty much all but flaked off, a little wire whool and it was naked again!

[Shazz1234]

Well when I painted my tamiya body they say that it's a clear lexan body and you need to use tamiya paint for polycarbonate bodies... I dont think that tamiya would get it wrong... I think that argument is done and dusted... I used the metalic blue paint for my subaru, it looks good and I've had the body flex completly inward after running into a chair and it just popped out without any flaking or anything, thats gotta say somthing for tamiya paint...

[Demon-TC3]

OK guys, well two meetings later and here is the shell :

http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/7992/picscr7.jpg
I dont care what the can says, Polycarb paint should NOT do this no matter how many runs it has!

So, i need to clear the shell now (probably use Nitro fuel) and re-spray with Tamiya Color paints!

I will let you know how it works out.

[davec-nitro-rs4]

But the white stripes stayed on? Different brands of paint?

Maybe the dark color wasn't fully cured before you backed it with the white?

[Demon-TC3]

I think the white has just a better formula, my friend painted in red, only the white remains (mostly..)

[Blacktiger]

Are you washing the body out with dish soap and then drying with paper towels before painting?

Most bodies have a bit of injection mold release film left on the inside of the body that can keep the paint from sticking. Always wash the body out and dry before painting.

[Demon-TC3]

Now, my second shell, i washed the shell very thoroughly with dish soap, scrubbed the hell out of it with steel wool, and washed it again then dried it...




Yup :wave:


I got most of the paint off now, Fuel works damn well..just needs to soak in...

i will re-spray in the next few days...

[Demon-TC3]

OK so now im pretty much done with stripping, wire whool and nitro fuel worked a charm:

http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/1739/pics004zg6.jpg


Now need to re-mask and re-spray!

[davec-nitro-rs4]

wipe it out with denatured alcohol, too. Steel wool can have oils on it.

[Demon-TC3]

just washed it all out again with dish soap, will probably do it again before i actually spray it as well though.

Thanks for the heads up though. :wave:

[awnelson]

Use polycarbonate paint with flex agents in them... Parma, Spaztix or Tamiya stuff. It works for millions of users, might work for you as well.

[ABSDrifter]

I prefer using a cheap airbrush and airbrush paint. than the aresol cans. because with an airbrush it goes on so thin and dries as you paint it. so pretty much after you get your first top coat on 2/3 of your car is dry and hit it with a hairdryer till you can feel heat on the underside of the body. i don't trust aresol cans it sprays too thick and tends to run and chip off a lot. and i also like to spray the outside of the shell with clear coat so that way the Lexan wont get too brittle and crack easily. but everyone has their own tips and tricks. it just depends on your method of painting as to what you prefer. but that is the best mothod i have found that works for me.

[Demon-TC3]

well when i painted this shell i did about 7 very thin coats, was a nice day and the coats where dry abotu 10 seconds after application, so i blasted it with a hair drier water 5 mins and did another coat.

I will try the same method again but with different spray.

One more thing, is it possible to damage the paint by overheating it? (i.e if i leave hair drier on too long)

Cheers,
Demon

[Eli the rc guy]

It might possibly if u leave t on too long, just probably makes the body weaker a tad, but a hair dryer shouldn't get thhhaaattt hot.

[Demon-TC3]

Well re-spray is now Done, after 3 meets no paint missing at all!
For anyone wondering, Tamiya Color is awesome stuff!

I also decided to experiment a li'l since the shall was wasted anywho....will post pics in a few mins :D
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/3940/dsc00023ak0.jpg

Self drawn and cut Vynal mask...didnt work out too badly...could have been better :P
(P.S the wheel arches are not flaking, i use some special tape which strengthens the shell...should have painted then applied but oh well..)