Bleed valve for TC3 shocks

[Jason C]

I rebuilt my TC3 shocks and I have to say, it was a very time consuming task. If I managed to fill the shock and get the cap on without any air inside, then it would be too full to compress it. If I made it so that I could compress the shock, then there was air in it.

I find these shocks very difficult to bleed properly as when I tightened the cap down a couple of turns, the shock would fail to bleed off excess oil when I compressed it. Once the cap was fully tightened, compressing it was impossible, and if I unscrewed the cap to try and bleed it, none would come out due to the extra volume created.

So, to help me in building my shocks, I propose to create a 'bleed valve' on the caps of the shocks. I plan to drill a tiny hole on the on the cap (away from the mounting eyelet) and then tap in a small set screw. When I fill the shock, I'll fill it with the shaft halfway compressed with a dome of oil on the body, and the cap about half full. Then I screw down the cap completely and allow the shaft to fully extend (there will probably be too much oil in there). Then I can slowly unscrew out the set screw on the cap and bleed out the excess oil as well as any air that may have been trapped inside.

So far, this is just a little theory that hasn't been put to the test yet. Any comments, anyone?

[HauntedMyst]

I might be wrong but I think the design of the shock requires a little air be in the shock. Isn't it, like the rest of the Associated shocks and emulsion shock? If it didn't, it would have a bladder. I found them to be very easy to build. Did you use new everything? O-Rings?

Also, you said it would be too full to compress it....look at your manual, you are supposed to put the caps on with the shock already compressed.

[ 08-15-2001: Message edited by: HauntedMyst ]

[SirSpeedy]

Don't waste your time.


Yokomo and AE have shared shock technology for a long, long time, and shock caps for a Yok sedan will thread right on. And they have a bleeder screw.

Many people do this...onroad and offroad...works pretty well.

[Jason C]

Everything is new, Haunted. My TC3 is less than a month old. I did try using the manual's suggestion in building the shocks, but that left air in them and I had always assumed that air in shocks was bad. So they are supposed to be an emulsion shock, huh?


Thanks for sharing that very helpful tidbit of info, Sir Speedy! I never knew Yokomo shocks had bleeder screws. Looks like I'll be ordering them soon. Can anyone provide a part # if possible? Thanks.

[Grizzbob]

I'm not absolutely certain, but try looking for Yok part # YS-8Y, that's what I have listed for them on an old MR-4TC manual(but it's possible that they've changed the numbers, they do that on occaision)..... :)

[HauntedMyst]

Even if its a month old, things like the o-rings need to be replaced. look at the shafts too, they could have scratches in them letting dirt and air in shock.

[Railman]

You can easily put screws in the caps, & it'll make it easier to top off your shocks. It still doesn't change the amount of air necesary for an emulsion shock to work though. The amount of air volume in an emulsion shock is equal to the volume of the shaft that penetrates the shock body. It has to have at least that volume of air for full travel. Too many people get hung up on getting all the air out. It really isn't that critical to get it perfect, just get it close. Just my $.02

[Grizzbob]

That's true, Railman, but the Yokomo shock caps do make it MUCH easier to get it right the first time(I've had several Yoks before I picked up my TC3)..... :)

[Jason C]

I just bought the shock rebuild kit, and I guess it's time to re-rebuild the shocks. When I fully compress the shock, should I be able to hear some bubbly noises as the piston nears the top?

My local hobby shop doesn't carry anything Yokomo so I'm out of luck looking for the shock caps there. I found some on Stormer hobbies, but ordering just the caps is a waste as the shipping costs more than the merchandise itself. I guess I'll wait till I need something else before I order it. Till then, I might try drilling and tapping some screws in my TC3 caps. Does the Yokomo caps use set screws for the bleed screws? Thanks for your help, guys.

[Grizzbob]

No, actually Yokomo uses some little Phillips head screws for the bleed screws(they're almost small enough that you need a jewler's screwdriver to tighten them, like what you use for eyeglasses)..... :)

[Jason C]

Ok, thanks, Grizzbob.

[rims']

when you screw on the cap make sure the shock is fully compressed and no air then after the cap is screwed on move the piston up and down there should be no prob.

[TC3 Benjammin]

What up, Jason. I hate the ol' AE vs Losi thing, but I think the Losi bottom filled shocks are the best. I have had a T3 Team, TC3 Team, and 10L. Associated shocks are a pain in the rear and aint worth a crap for the effort you have to put in. Get some Losi shocks and you will be impressed, partner, I promise. :p

[Railman]

We have about an equal number of Losi & Ass cars & trucks (10 or so). I simply can't see what the problem is with eithers' shocks to work on. It's just a matter of being used to them.

[Jason C]

I'm just not used to filling and bleeding the AE shocks as all the other cars I've owned use bladders. I didn't know they were emulsion shocks, so I spend almost an hour trying to fill all the shocks without any air in them. Other than the problem I've had with filling the AE shocks (due to my ignorance), I haven't had any other problems with them so I probably won't get Losi shocks any time soon. Thanks for the suggestion.