OMG, what happened to my new O.S. .18TM???

[IceWind]

Man, I am just not having a good day today. About the only thing that went RIGHT was my O.S. .18TM arriving which I promptly installed onto my Revo and headed outside to break it in. My LHS hobby shop said to run a full tank at idle speed and then do gradual increase in speeds and go full throttle on the 6th tank.

Man, it was a real PITA to get the sucker going, but I finally managed to get it to fire and it ran for around 12mins at idle speed until it cut out and the factory settings. I checked the temps frequently and they bounced between 125-155 and the exhaust was dripping excess fuel for awhile so I know it was getting plenty of lubrication. So I tried to fire it up again, and it wouldn't start no matter how many times I pulled the pull start. So I took a break and tried again and managed to get it to fire but it wouldn't idle. I fitzed around with the HSN, LSN and idle but just adusting like 1/8 of a turn leaning and richening to try to get the engine to fire. I finally managed too, let it sit for another 5 mins and decided to give it some light gas. So I went around in slow circles at 1/4 throttle and it cut out when I let out the gas.

Hmm ok, so I started it up again and I had to start giving it some gas so it would actually start and then I did a good 5-6 minute low speed lap where I gave it no more then 1/4 throttle and I saw exhaust coming out, when I pulled it in to check the temp, my meter registered HI and my engine started making this gawdawful wailing sound and I immediatly shut it down. I kept an eye on the temp meter and it finally gave me a reading of 300 and dropping. SOB, what happend. I rushed hope to take off the cooling head, and this is what I found.

What in Gods green earth happened??????

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m1/Phantron/RC%20racing/os1.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m1/Phantron/RC%20racing/os2.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m1/Phantron/RC%20racing/os3.jpg

[jamesbernatchez]

Oh my god! What did you do :D Didn't you have problems with the 3.3? I think electric is in your future, LOL J/K

[rccardude04]

Is the rod broken?
If your story is 100% true, it sounds like OS might owe you an engine :)
You didn't have any nasty exhaust/tank leaks did you? Even then, it shouldn't get THAT hot...
Something was/is wrong...
-Eric

[hijacker]

I think your head screws were too long.

[chewie]

what percent fuel were you running.. and it could have been the threadlock.. jk..

any ways seriously.. and what temp plug.

[EZM]

you cooked the damm thing cuz you were running rich

[one]

You had a restriction in your fuel line.

It was nice and rich one minute then lean as heck the next blowing your temps through the roof. If you are not running a fuel filter it is much easier to do, but you could have easily gotten dirt in there in the carb while installing the engine.

Nice fuel flow = rich, then all of a sudden hot as a firecracker = restriction = something got in your fuel line or carb.

The worse news is that you might need bearings after getting that hot which = new engine also since the new piston and sleeve weren't seated yet..

[rocknbil]

you cooked the damm thing cuz you were running rich
Agreed, you can run an engine too rich and cause this kind of trouble. The low low temps and dripping exhaust shold have been the clue.

[IceWind]

SOB.....I was following their break in method too. Guess i'll be calling them tomorroo.

[rccardude04]

Um... you can't nuke an engine quite that quickly by running rich. It will just wear prematurely, or at least break itself into the colder temperatures. Then when you lean it out to go fast, it'll be set too cold and die like it's overheating, or worn out.
-Eric

[Giant655]

Um... you can't nuke an engine quite that quickly by running rich. It will just wear prematurely, or at least break itself into the colder temperatures. Then when you lean it out to go fast, it'll be set too cold and die like it's overheating, or worn out.
-Eric
Um, uh huh. Look at the head and the piston there. All that brown stuff is a carbon buildup, that all happened from the fuel carmelizing ( Sp?). You shouldnt get that much buildup in the life of a piston and sleeve, less alone 2 tanks. But yeah, you ran it too rich, then gave it some gas, and it superheated because 140-155 is NOT enough heat to get that sleeve to expand and break in. You can try and call O.S, but I dont think that engine is covered by any kind of factory warranty since it is " an exclusive race engine" but try it nevertheless.

[Adanmtxt1]

It is true that you can run excessively rich, which can be detrimental to an engine. Give OS a call and see if you can get a new engine out of the deal, and just be cognizant of this in the future :). At worst, you need a new button, piston, and sleeve, which they might give you in place of a new engine. Sorry to hear about this; mine runs like a demon (in a good way), and starts up easily when it has a good plug and is primed (I don't always prime it all the way sometimes).

[IceWind]

Allright, i've had it with this mis-information BS. I have just about had it. Either you guys are misinformed, im being misled or most people on this forum have no idea what your talking about.

My LHS has been in business for over 30 years and Brian the gentlemen that has helped me ALOT since day one would not steer me in the wrong direction. I took all his advice and used White lightning 20% Nitro as its good quality stuff. I ran the thing for idle speed for awhile and then proceeded to drive it around USING O.S.'s break in method and then this accident happend.

I call up Towerhobbies this morning and of course, they can't do anything, I have to call O.S. Fine, so I call up O.S and tell them my plight and they said that White Lightning isn't a good fuel at all, not enough oil content, your engine fried because lack of lubrication. He said I need to run 14%-18% oil content fuel. Huh???? Then they say that the LC3 plug is to hot for most applications, they only reason they put it with the engine is for use with the EZ start wiring system, everyone else needs to run an O.S. 8 plug for cooler running temps. W T F???

He blamed the fuel leak on "the poor quality" fuel and says to run O-Donnell fuel for best reliability or even Trinity Monster Horsepower. OMG, so they dont' even suggest that it might be a factory flaw?

I took it to my LHS and showed him the car and told him out flat what O.S said less then 15 minutes ago and he tells me the following.

"Damn, unbelivable, those guys will say anything to keep from doing warranty work on their engines. The only reasons they say O-Donnell is because they stick with their warranty specifications and any deviation from that they refuse to acknowledge it and blame it on you"

"I ran my .18TM with 20% White Lighting for over a year during proffesional races and I NEVER had a problem with it, so for O.S to say this is just utter warranty denial work BS. Alot of racers have used WL in the past with a good track record so O.S. is just covering their own asses. O-donnell fuel is only 10% oil content, and yet 8% is to low? Explain that to me. The only fuel that has higher then 16% oil is aircraft fuel which won't work crap in car engines"


"And why the hell would they give the wrong plug from O.S. that runs to hot for the engine? That is complete utter corporate coverup BS"

"Running the engine at a cooler temp at rich settings is what you WANT for break in initially and then lean it up. You don't need the engine to run at 200 degrees just so that the "cylinder" can expand enough. Damn some of these people telling you this info need to chill the *bleep* out, relax and stop worrying so much."

His words, not mine. 8 year nitro veteran who raced professionally for 3 years.

He then takes apart the engine's header and cooling head and says right off the bat...

"Wow, they didn't screw down the cooling head all the way down at the factory, so the fuel leaked all over the place, look you can even see it where it leaked passed the glowplug seal. This is the factory's fault, not yours, you should never have to check this when you purchase an engine but apparently O.S quality standards of dropped"

He reassemblies everything for me, checks the compression, locktights the engine cooling head screws to which I say that people say thats a bad idea from forums and he replies...

"Then they can worry about their cooling heads coming off, you won't. i've done this for years, its a simple and effective insurance policy, absolutely no reason not to do it."

So we head outside and after some angst with the pull start, it fires up, he then richens my engine up and i've been doing slow loops and leaning the engine since then and it looks like my engine will be ok.

Sorry guys, but i've had enough of this confusion. I"ll stick to my LHS for advice on proper engine use. Some of you seem to be ill-informed, biased or just incapable of giving decent advice and I nearly ruined my engine because of it. Im sorry to come across as an *******, but im REALLY sick of getting 4-6 different "opinions" and "expert advice" on a single problem and then I get screwed in the end both in time and money.

If you have a problem with this, go and run your R/C's your way then, and i'll do it my way.

[USATorque55]

Pretty informative post.

Always interesting to hear what the veterans say as compared to what the factory says.

If it were me, I'd be grateful you have that guy at your LHS and run what he says.

[z-man280]

Sorry guys, but i've had enough of this confusion. I"ll stick to my LHS for advice on proper engine use. Some of you seem to be ill-informed, biased or just incapable of giving decent advice and I nearly ruined my engine because of it. Im sorry to come across as an *******, but im REALLY sick of getting 4-6 different "opinions" and "expert advice" on a single problem and then I get screwed in the end both in time and money.

If you have a problem with this, go and run your R/C's your way then, and i'll do it my way.




:eek: :eek: WHOA! wait a minute! before you jump all over those who have helped you, remember, this is your second engine failure, and two totally different makes/ models. Why not just pay your LHS guy to break it in for you ???????

More people than just me will remember this, so when you have ANOTHER problem, i suggest you go to your LHS, instead of posting it here, only to have you complain about the advise you got. :mad:

[zakerid]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=2219467&postcount=42
I called it...

[zakerid]

Some of you seem to be ill-informed, biased or just incapable of giving decent advice and I nearly ruined my engine because of it.
???
SOB.....I was following their break in method too. Guess i'll be calling them tomorroo.
Who's advice were you following? :teacher: :roll2:

[jamesbernatchez]

No offense but it seems you cant tune an engine very well. Two engines in a row are toast....I agree with zman, have them break it in for you if they are so great. Ive raced for many years and have had countless engines. I think in all that time maybe one or two have given me problems.

Here are a few tips that have worked well for me:

-You want it rich but not too rich. It needs to get some heat through it.
-Too cold is a bad thing, that could wear out parts just as bad as being way too lean.
-Make sure to check your fuel line for kinks, cuts, etc and make sure your airfilter is on properly with the required oil in it.

What I do is for the first 3 tanks I run it in a figure eight slowly...and temp it now and then. I found most of my big blocks run around 150-180 doing this. I then start to lean it out and get on it a bit more...by the fifth/sixth tank its pretty much set where I need it to be depending on the weather. Everyone does their own thing but this works well for me.

It might help to have somebody with more experience help you through this process. Even my first engine lasted a while doing this break in method. Good luck :)

[Adanmtxt1]

Sounds as though you were following your LHS's advice on using WL, so that is not RCZ's member base's problem. Personally, it sounds as though you are not the best nitro tuner in the world, and you would benefit from either having a friend or family member help out, have the LHS break it in for you and help you get it tuned to make sure you don't make critical errors, or simply get rid of your nitro stuff and switch over to electric. It dismays me to see someone blow two engines in a row in such a short period of time, but I have to believe that you must learn from your mistakes or accept the identical outcome if you continue doing what you are doing.

Additionally, I am sure the members of RCZ do not appreciate you blaming them for you blowing your two engines. All you need is some interpersonal assistance, not help over the internet which can be misleading on occasion. Best to have people right there by your side assisting you and answering questions, and where you have the exact sense of what is going on while it is happening.

[DerekB]

Man, like I said in your post on our forum, whatever that crap after run oil, and whatever you hobbyshop is telling you to do...I'd say you better stop.

A. THere's NO way you can get an engine to look like that, in a few tanks...unless you really got it hot.

B. Start paying attention to the advice you read because something isn't adding up with you and nitro engines.

But again...way too lean.

OD race blend is lower in oil, the basher stuff, which most people should be using has more oil.

8% is too low and if they fuel isn't consistent can drop lower than that.

[fasterthanspeed]

Man your an idiot. First you call all of the people on the forum including me dumb sh!ts, and if your 8 year rc car veteran is right you should have checked all of the nuts and bolts first of all. Like you should with all products you purchase new. Also your tuning skills suck. When your breaking in a new os engine itll be correctly adjusted from the factory. ONLY adjust the idle. if its cutting out turn your idle up. And if your just letting it sit there put a fan on it to keep it cool. Also, check the temp more often. If it gets to high then its to lean. You probably leaned it out to much.
Also, theres a definate problem if youve went through 2 engines that quickly. You should get 10-12 gallons out of each engine if you tune it properly and take care of it(WHICH YOU OBVIOUSLY ARE NOT DOING). So next time dont get pissed off at us for your stupid A$$ mistakes.

Also, if want to keep actin this way please leave. We get enough crap like this outside the forum, and remember, were here to help you not to screw with your rc cars.

[one]

says to run O-Donnell fuel for best reliability

This might be the only thing they said that is correct. Best-fuel-ever. 8 gallons of fuel through every engine I have ever had using Odonnell's.

but im REALLY sick of getting 4-6 different "opinions" and "expert advice" on a single problem and then I get screwed in the end both in time and money.

Excuse me, I didn't notice a deposit in my paypal account, anyone else get paid for their expert advice? No? Then shadddup.

[fasterthanspeed]

Actually odonells fuel co. is getting cheap. They are using some type of nitromethane from China that isnt good quality. Rather than the company they went through before.

[ritchies rc10gt]

I fitzed around with the HSN, LSN and idle but just adusting like 1/8 of a turn leaning and richening to try to get the engine to fire. ]


after this how far out was the HS and LS needles?

[chewie]

they say making an attack on someone is the worst thing to do. you did it to a hole threade of people you f***ed up


lol sound familiar..


any ways. looks likd its electric for you buddy.. cause you and nitro dont get along

[z-man280]

ya know, normally, i dont get too fired up,....BUT....

theres a first time for everything.

LISTEN-

Traxxas makes it a point to go above and beyond for their tuning info, DVD, instructions, ect....

O.S. has been making engines forever,...and again, they make a good product.

You tell us they both are crap. You ask us why they BOTH died, and we tell you why. Now WE are the idiots??

WE didnt blow up TWO engines, did we???????????

No, we didnt, YOU DID! So, you decide to take it upon yourself to find the first person other than the one RUNNING them to blame. So your new god "Brian" tells you its all everyone elses fault.... dude, i have been running nitro a helluva lot longer than 8 years, and i still learn something. Everyday.


You jump all over everyone for their mis-information, ect., because you decided to not follow instructions. Why after the 1st engine, didnt you consult your LHS to help you break in this engine???


I would bet that if you sent either engine to any of us "idiots" to break it in, it would come back running, even tho we must all be a bunch of morons.

Before you decide to blame us, do the facts:

O.S. .18TM- blown

TRX3.3- Blown

both made by two different companies, both have one thing in common

operater error. Suck up the ego and admit it!

[Karadjas]

1) It's obvious there was a leak from the head
2) I don't see the point in NOT threadlocking the head down with some *breakable* threadlock.
3) Whenever you get a new engine, atleast go over it on the outside. I open them up and clean them up and lube the insides before I start them, but seeing as how you are not that good with engines maybe you should wait a while before you do that.
4) The people in these forums are quite frankly, awesome. 95% of the members are knowledgeable and helpful and you can easily tell whether the person talking to you in in the remaining 5%.
5) 8 years in nitro is not a veteran. He knows his stuff, he has acquired a lot of experience through racing and running a hobby shop, but please... 8 years is NOT a veteran. I've been in nitro for 8 years (very first batch of T-Maxxes) as well, including 4 years of national racing and 14 owned engines and countless others I helped break in, tune and maintain. I am by no means a veteran. Lots of people on these forums know a lot more about engines than I do! I am not trying to put down the guy, but don't take his word for everything. I know I second guess myself lots of times.
6) Maybe you should have your LHS owner help you with break in and tuning. From what I read in this thread you are not that experienced and you most probably won't be able to diagnose problems early on. It's beneficial to have someone who knows what he's doing over your head, pointing stuff out for you.

[IceWind]

Allright, im sorry for my anger, rudeness and plain blunt stupidity. I have been so fustrated the last week ever since my TRX blew itself up and ever since then, it seems nothing has gone right lately with my Revo. Im just so angry that im having to go through so much just for a small vehicle that i've dumped so much money into it and no thanks in part to my newbness to the and lack of patience at some points, I just wanna throw my hands up and toss the damn thing in the garbage after todays crap fest. My glowplug decided to take a crap and leak fuel so I had to purchase ANOTHER glowplug but then the damn pull start broke on my after it locked up on the engine when I was running it, so thats ANOTHER part I have to replace! I'm just so fustrated, I think I may let the vehicle sit for a few days and do something else and not think or worry about it until I calm myself.

Part me wishes to ditch the hobby all together, part me wants to sell the Revo and get a Baja 5b and another part says to chill, take a few days off, order a new pull start/roto start *my hand farking hurts from that damn pull start* and try again at the LHS to watch over me.

[XXWoodmanXX]

*sigh* :roll2:

[stanmondz]

i have 2 cars and 3 nitro engines 1 .15fe still runs fine (spare) 1 troq.16 in my rs4 and a os .18cv-rx the os is the only engine i have a book for to brake in the torq i did with advice from this fourm(rebuild and brake in) and my cars and maintanance comes from this forum to me i would say 1 fried engine could be a factory defect but 2 sound like user error to me some of these gus here where veterans befor your LHS guy was a stain on the sheet so yes GO AWAY

[CarbonMadness]

I guess if you are around z-man when he is PO you would still think he is a nice person. lol

I agree with him though, as if you had 2 engines made by 2 different companies that had the exact same problem then you need to stop and think to your self that maybe you don't have a clue what you are doing. BTW when you said you let off the gas from 1/4 throttles then chances are you had one needle way to rich, and the other way too lean.

[z-man280]

Allright, im sorry for my anger, rudeness and plain blunt stupidity. I have been so fustrated the last week ever since my TRX blew itself up and ever since then, it seems nothing has gone right lately with my Revo. Im just so angry that im having to go through so much just for a small vehicle that i've dumped so much money into it and no thanks in part to my newbness to the and lack of patience at some points, I just wanna throw my hands up and toss the damn thing in the garbage after todays crap fest. My glowplug decided to take a crap and leak fuel so I had to purchase ANOTHER glowplug but then the damn pull start broke on my after it locked up on the engine when I was running it, so thats ANOTHER part I have to replace! I'm just so fustrated, I think I may let the vehicle sit for a few days and do something else and not think or worry about it until I calm myself.

Part me wishes to ditch the hobby all together, part me wants to sell the Revo and get a Baja 5b and another part says to chill, take a few days off, order a new pull start/roto start *my hand farking hurts from that damn pull start* and try again at the LHS to watch over me.


dude, you are entirely too stressed right now.....

sit back, take a breath, and count to 10. I havent helped you in here YET, but i am willing to. If you want, enable your pm's ( i tried to contact you, but no option for it) and we can work one-on-one with this.

[davec-nitro-rs4]

Sorry to see the OS damaged.

How cold is it where you are today? I didn't read everyword of this....

[Karadjas]

The glowplug leaked fuel? Please explain further!! :confused:

[rccardude04]

Um, uh huh. Look at the head and the piston there. All that brown stuff is a carbon buildup, that all happened from the fuel carmelizing ( Sp?).

I have never seen that happen with good quality fuel. It always burns off what is in the chamber before it has a chance to do that. If you have crappy after-run oil or you leave fuel in the engine for a long time, then heat it up a bunch, it can bake on like that. If an engine is RUNNING rich, that is not really a very likely scenario.
The only engine I've had do that to me was an airplane engine. High oil content, lack of after run oil, and parma speed scent. It rusted the bearings, did that to the piston, and made a mess of the combustion chamber.

I have also not seen an engine that something like that actually ruined unless there was dirt/grime involved otherwise. It ought to be okay if you run it properly.

Also, LHS working experience seems to accelerate the acquisition of any knowledge you have/would have. A co-worker of mine got into nitro just a couple months ago, and he can tune/fix nitro vehicles as well as people I've seen who have done it for up to a year or two. When you work in a hobby shop, you tend to either know what you're doing very quickly, or you get a bad reputation and nobody lets you work on their stuff.

O'Donnell fuel used to be exclusively distributed by Duratrax, which is basically a division of Great Planes Model Distributors. Unfortunately, OS is distributed exclusively buy, you guessed it, Great Planes. I think O'Donnell finally split away but Great Planes still has their ties I'm sure.
Usually the tech at the company has the advise that will sell you their product. The guy at the LHS is who I'd listen to. Most LHSs carry what they do because it's what they have the best luck with. It's why we carry what we do. If it's crap, it's not on the shelf. That simple. Any good hobby shop should carry this philosophy. It's what keeps the good shops in business :)
-Eric

[RCRevolution]

Make sure your header is nicely sealed against the engine next time, I had a problem where my idle would flucuate constaly, then I noticed that my header wasnt resting against the gasket right, I added a .12 spring to it which gave it more tension, and it fixed the problem.

[rccardude04]

Mr. Revolution here also mentioned to me in another conversation that pre-ignition can cause that type of discoloration. If the LC3 is too hot, which it may very well be, this makes sense.
I still say the engine should run fine. Have fun man! I hope it works out.
Run #8s from now on :)
-Eric

[RCRevolution]

do I detect a hint of sarcasim there? MR. rccardude04 :p

[rccardude04]

No. I was being serious. You didn't mention it in your post so I did. I think you had a good point (for once :D). Just sharing some potentially good info, even considering the source.
-Eric

[IceWind]

Well, my LHS who's been a tremendous help the past few months since I got back into this hobby, we managed to fire up the engine yesterday, complete the break in and the O.S is running almost perfect now up until my pull start broke.

I dunno, maybe I don't have the patience for this particular niche of the hobby like I thought i did, I'm spending more time in fustration then I am having fun recently and maybe that should be my big clue. Maybe I should just go with a Baja 5b spend less time tuning/tweaking and more time having fun. Part me says just to give up all together and go back my console/pc/gaming hobby and leave this to the dedicated hobbyists.

I think im just gonna leave my Revo stuff sitting for the next week or so, take care of my girlfriends birthday and come back to it when im in a better frame of mind to decide if I wanna pursue this any further.

Understand if I leave ruffled feathers from my previous comments despite my regret in saying so. You guys rock for your help and knowledge and maybe i'll see you again down the road, well see.

[chilledoutuk]

dude all this nitro grief your a prime candidate for a reliable brushless/lipo electric car.

All this break in crap you can get a decent kit and a mamba max system put the kit together put the system in set your endpoints and drive till the cows come home.

dont give up on this hobby without trying brushless electric man as i know how frustrating nitro can be.

This is a problem i see with this hobby at the moment every noob is buying nitro rtr as thats what companies like hpi are pushing.

But personally i see this putting people off rc as basically i can see people buying rc nitro rtr cars having problems due to there in-experiance and then never coming back to the hobby.

And finaly RTR turns a potential hobby into a toy and annoys me in so many ways.
So many people who bought rtr cars have no clue how to fix there cars when they break.
I mean this kid comes out when im driving my xxxt at about 50mph up and down the street with a broken nitro mt2.
basically he lost one of the screws that held the steering knuckle in place and replaced it with a wood screw because this did not fit properly the dogbone must have jumped out of the cup whenever he turned basically the cup and dogbone were ruined and needed replacement because he didnt know the importance of the missing component.

rant over!!

[z-man280]

Icewind,

hang in there man....

one way or antoher, we will get you going,...if its not nitro, brushless, anything,...dont give up yet tho.

[RCRevolution]

lol @ chilledoutuk, there is a reason why people stick with nitro even tho it requires tuning and breaking in.

there is something there that electric can not offer.

[davec-nitro-rs4]

THE NOISE! That's why I am a nitro nut. The Noise!

[EZM]

yeah icewind, f u if you dont appreciate our opinion, on behalf of all of us who helped you"screw you next time" and dont think about changing your name because we wont help out any other newbie

[DerekB]

And since we're trying to blame this on thread lock. I have never threadlocked any engine, nor seen any factory driver do it either. Put some muscle into it, and the expansion of the metals makes it's own threadlock. Sort of like when you put an oil filter on a real car you only go hand tight :)

STOP using that after run oil too.

[EZM]

yeah what derek said, if you dont appreciate f u icewind.

[IceWind]

Well, after a night off and getting some sleep and thinking about my options, I've decided to not give up quit yet and give it another go. I realized that part of my fustration was the physical labor involved in starting the engine with the pull start. My hand still hurts from pulling that thing over and over.

Its really nice to only have to carry around a glowplug instead of the EZ start or roto start, but I remembered that I wasn't as fustrated with engine troubles when I had my EZ start cause all I had to do was keep pushing a button. I ordered a complete roto start kit and some new tires and i'll give it another go and get my O.S all tuned up.

Anyway, I feel bad still for my attitude and I make no excuses cept I was fustrated, angry and just wasn't thinking which tends to happen to me when im like that, its a personality flaw. Its easy to pretend to a be a hotshot/bunghole while sitting in front of your computer typing text to random people on a forum you don't meet face to face.

[hijacker]

Nitro tuning can be very frustrating. I don't even try it without someone nearby who really knows what they are doing.

[rccardude04]

yeah icewind, f u if you dont appreciate our opinion, on behalf of all of us who helped you"screw you next time" and dont think about changing your name because we wont help out any other newbie

yeah what derek said, if you dont appreciate f u icewind.

No offense dude, but did you read all the posts? The guy apologized already. Chill out. That kind of attitude is not welcome anywhere around here.
-Eric

[NitroNostrils]

Couple of things here:

Traxxas has an engine exchange program.

OS are some of the best built motors on the market. I have one thats 9 years old with original internals.


You need to have alittle more patience when tuning and tune properly.

[fastharry]

Breaking in a OS engine on 8% oil content?.Your LHS ought to give you another engine just for idiotic advice......


or let him handle the warranty situation.....

[EZM]

Os engines are amongst the best and more powerfull engines outhere, offcourse they are ment to be used by moderate to experienced and highly knowledgeable rc users.For this reason o.s. does not offer shity engine exchange programs like hpi or traxxas because they know, if you are experienced then you wont need or have any problems with their engines. Next time you get an rc, switch to electric, Nikko and Tyco rc offer great beginner rc cars for your level Icewind.

[rccardude04]

8% is fine if you have everything set up properly. It's a little low for my tastes, but if you have it rich enough, it's just barely enough oil.
EZM, go away.
-Eric

[zakerid]

8% + newb = this scenario
It does suck. I actually feel bad for this guy.

[R_C_hoodlum]

I believe there was an issue of RCCA that had an article about fuel facts and one of them was the misconception that once you start a brand new motor on one fuel, you have to stick with that fuel.

If my memory serves me correct, the article said that if you want to switch fuels afer the engine has broken-in, all you need to do is idle a few tanks of the new fuel through the motor before you start rippin' on it.

So maybe next time you need to break-in a motor; break it in with a high oil/low nitro content fuel and then move up to the fuel you want to run with.

BTW: I don't know how accurate that is, I'm just going off my memory but maybe you could look up the article or something.

[stanmondz]

i started the brake in on my os .18cvrx with traxxas 20%(2 tanks) then finished with o-donnal 20% now im working my way through a gallon of blue thunder20% no problems yet with switching fuels

[Giant655]

I was pretty sure O'donnell fuel was 12% Yes, you should surely calm down bro.
honestly if you are having that much trouble, go talk to your "expert" have him walk you through the process needed to get these nitro engines singing. If you are curious and want to learn, then you'll have no problem ( lol, I say this lightly) figuring them out. I got so good at this stuff because I didnt have anyone to go to ( and I didnt know about this forum yet) when I first started out, so I learned as I went, so be grateful you have more than yourself to go to when you get good and tripped up.

[raderrustler]

TOO much fuel with a good glo-plug and you made a wonderful batch of caramel, you were too cool and the fuel did not burn off it just collected.
I have done this with very high end rossi's trying to be too careful, just get them running and let the temps get to 200 and slowly increase the temps with each tank till you get five six tanks thru it.