Duratrax Evader ST Forum v5.0

[TRF Drive Hard]

Starting fresh since v4.0 has over 2k post popcorn

[vaderbxman]

Ooooh cool!! Will we be able to still look at the older versions?

Oh, and thanks for the refresh man! :)

[elecracr]

Guver, you should try setting all your brushless settings at maximum. I think I was getting around 10-15 minutes runtime with my evader which was very quick with brushless. I was running 6cell GP3300 packs.

[marinearmenibro]

i was thinking about getting aluminum suspension arms for my evader is it worth the money or should I just replace the broken one with a stock plastic one? thanks in advance.

[vaderbxman]

The only aluminum arms that'll fit are the fronts. They add s much weight it'll throw your truck off balance. I think the graphite ones are a better investment. I've had mine for almost 3/4 of a year, and the only problem I"ve had was a stripped hole in my shock mounting.

[marinearmenibro]

isn't graphite weaker than the regular plastic?
if it is im going to get stock becasue I dont race I just bash around in my yard.

[vaderbxman]

I had no problems with either sets of arms. I have run my Graphites for a long time and put my regular plastic ones under a truck with no problems. What part of the arm are you breaking? Is it the same part? I have seen arms breaking at the hinge point, but are you breaking it in a different place?

[jato-racer33]

i wanna get a new motor for my evader but know dont wich one to get. any suggestions? thanks

[evst 360]

Team Orion Formula sv2's (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=FORMULA+SV2+pro+bb&FVPROFIL=++) The ball bearing ones are best. :cool:

[vaderbxman]

Are you still running the stocker ESC? The black one with the golden heatsinks? If so, don't go below 20 turns. I'm also gonna suggest the komodo dragon and trinity speed gems motors because I've seen those spank my Sv2 at the track.

[elecracr]

Graphite is less flexible but has more of a chance of breaking because it does not flex as much.
What esc are you running, motor options can go from stock motors to full blown brushless setups. Give us more information on your car.

I would not replace the arms with aluminum ones, seeing as you will just break a part that is behind the arms that will be often more expensive and harder to replace.

[vaderbxman]

If you did go aluminum, I'm banking on the fact you'll start frying bulkheads. Then pinbraces, ect.

[jato-racer33]

Are you still running the stocker ESC? The black one with the golden heatsinks? If so, don't go below 20 turns. I'm also gonna suggest the komodo dragon and trinity speed gems motors because I've seen those spank my Sv2 at the track.

yeah, im runnin the stock one

[vaderbxman]

Then you've got the 20T limit ESC. I'd suggest nothing below a 20T, but I did get away with a 19T motor once with that ESC. If you need suggestions, try the SV2's and the speed gems.....

[elecracr]

Id suggest going with a 27 turn stock motor or upgrading your esc and going with a mild modified motor.

[vaderbxman]

Tower makes a pretty good 27T motor, but I'm not good with naming 27T motors. Ask around...


On a different note, I won my first official race. It was 3 sets of 5 minute heats, with a 5 minute main. I was up against my dad's stock Evader ST, a triple XT with a 27T motor from someone, and a T4 fielded by a guy who could drive really good if he could keep it off the walls.

The first race was the most fun because I got to see who's who with speed and stuff. I got the holeshot, but kept landing funny, so it ended up being a close finish. I came in first with a 9-second lead, with my dad's evader behind me with the triple xt third.

Before the second race began, a guy with a T4 showed up and signed-up. When that race started, I got the holeshot again and ran with it. I lapped my dad (who was my fault because I gave him a dead battery to run by accident. :o) and got the triple xt on the last corner. The T4 ended up about 25-seconds behind me.

The third main was the whackiest: I started in third, and didn't get the holeshot. I ended-up under 2 cars after the first jump. I got marshalled last, and made my comeback. I passed the leader, the T4, in a u-turn because he lost it and nosed into the wall. I hauled keister trying to stay in front. It paid off becuase he tangled with the triple xt following me. I ended-up winning by about 8 seconds.

The main was the most uneventful. I got pole because of the heats, and got the holeshot at the tone. I pulled-out to a big lead, until my battery began to dump with about a minute to go. I was racing the XT, trying to lap him while trying to save volts, and crossed the finish line with at least a 30-sec lead, because my dad in second had just come out of turn one when I crossed the line. I swept the races, got a congratulations by everyone in the park, and took home a trophy and bragging rights.

If you guys don't believe me, I'll put up a link of the website when it gets updated with my name.

Woot!!! It was also the first electric stadium truck race in a long time (at least a year and a half), so I now hold the track record in 1/10 scale electric stadium truck.

It was alot of fun for the 6 hours we were out there, and worth the mowing the lawn to pay for my entry fee.......





EDIT: Here's the proof: http://www.hobbyraceway.com/modules/news/
My name is adam in that post.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Wow its been ages since i used the old RCZ forums! Last time i used it was in the 50 something pages of v4.0! Time to reintroduce myself :) I got my evader two years ago an now its got graphite upgrade, all new electrics and some aluminium here and there. Running on 4x3000 and 1x3300 batteries. It has a 4 magnet 12 turn motor in it which still has tonnes of torque kicking it up to 40 - 45 mph when tested. It does this while running for up to 20 minutes though we aren't totally sure how it does it! I like to have it looking understated though. It still looks standard from the outside with its normal shell and normal wheels (proline dit hawgs on the back) Metal geared hi-torque servo and intellispeed 12t esc. Self modified shafts (the old ones kept loosening and breaking off into lil bits at high speeds) I refuse to cut bits out the chassis to save weight but i do get all the upgrades that should lighten it. Has titanium pins and screws and basically all the titanium parts bar the shock parts which i break so much that i keep them standard. With repairs and upgrades, the bills have come up to 700 pounds but it pays for inself with race prize money. Bit different to you americans cause rc isnt that big in the uk so we dont have set tracks and trophies. Just bettings of who can win the race. Its also used as a t maxx recovery vehicle :D When t maxx bashing, we use it to push them the right way up and also to pull the other cars down to the skate ramps cause we're too lazy to carry themselves ourselves! Atm im making a trailor for it :P Ive upgraded most of the back so i have most of an evader free. So im making a trailor which will be the back of an evader used to carry my mini t or e maxx. Pics coming soon!

[vaderbxman]

Welcome back man!!! Man have things changed around here. I've been on for almost a year now, and I've learned alot and shared an equal amount of information with users. I've got the Evader ST Pro with the stock ESC and receiver, but I've got a 12T Orion V2 and a futaba s3305 servo to boot. I've put plenty of miles through her and I"ve only broken or tweaked fewer than 5 parts. The most expensive being a bent rear axle :eek:

We're glad to have ya back!!!

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Hehe thanks. Well ive broken a lot! Front bearings are totally gone on one front side after a nice accident with a door on ice! My friend drove it into a wall and broke the chassis clean in half. Rear aluminium chassis plate hase been broken off. Front bulkhead (now aluminium) and one front a arm were snapped in lil bits when they hit a wheely bin when i hit some oil! Someone went over it on a bike and destroyed the front two shocks, then i took it to the skate ramps when it was cold and did a 40 foot jump landing it the first two times i did it but on the third time, broke another shock and one front a arm and one rear one a arm. Oh and one of the original tyres got torn in half on some barbed wire. And ofcourse many body clips lost, mines the original evader st but the esc wires kept coming out and after i fully submerged it under water in a nasty accident, i replaced that with the esc in an evader pro. The motor was first upgraded to a speed gems extreme double 15 which made it wheely from stand still giving me a lil too much torque but still a lot of speed. When that got so muddy that the brushes got stuck in place, i upgraded it to the Trinity Cobalt Quad 12 which leaves my other motor as a spare. The servo has been replaced about 4 times till i finally decided to go all out on an expensive indestructable one, ive kept the crystals and radio system the same as in England, everything is 27 MHz so i see no point. And as i said before, i modified the shafts using body clips instead as the old spring pins get loose and fall out leaving you with nothing in the middle of a drag race. It earned its name as the supersonic st when drag racing in wales where it won every race. The drag strip was only 150 metres in which i was put 10 metres behind the front. (4 cars racing at a time each with a handicap to match the slowest car) Even with that it pulled a wheely off the line every time and shot past them. These cars being an old B2 with full mods, a traxxas rustler with many mods and a 10 turn B3. The only race i came close to losing was when my drive shaft broke off mid way through where i had to roll over the finish line! I also forgot to mention that i have now fitted my emaxx wheels onto it which i cant use in races but do mean i can reach 60mph! I can think of more breakages now but i think ive written enough for one post!

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Just noticed looking back at my last post from before i took my massive break from this thing that you and i were talking back then vaderbxman! That was last year when you just joined and was looking at different bodies before you got the evader pro! That just amazes me that it was the same person... oh and also im 13 days older than you... that somehow amazes me too!

[elecracr]

Welcome back, I need to get my brushless back up and running. And spend about 30 dollars on knew parts to repair the crash.

[vaderbxman]

Aww man, that was eons ago. Oh, and check your PM's!!!

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Yanno one thing i still havent upgraded is the old fashioned tamiya clips to WS Deans :( That proves bad when running full whack with the maxx tires on it. ^0 mph but then the plugs melted together and couldnt touch a lot of the car. Guess its them next! Its ran fine with the maxx wheels before but i guess it had to go sometime.

[vaderbxman]

My tamiyas go all the time. Instead of upgrading like I shoud've, I just bought a lot more of them. The next upgrade for me are powerpoles, because I'm tired of having electrical problems.......

[T/Losi]

Is there a base setting for the slipper clutch, so many turns out?

Cheers

[T/Losi]

I am still having trouble with my sons evader bx.
I am running a Trinity 19t motor with 21t pinion 81t spur. I also just pulled the diff apart and put new lube in the diff. I made sure the gear mesh was set right and I set the diff as the manual says but the wheels are so tight. I can put it on a step hill and the buggy will just sit there. I can push it and the wheels will just drag along the ground. What could be wrong?
Front wheels don't do it, just the rear but if I have the motor not connected it doesn't do it. Could it do something with the 21t pinion, 81t spur not connecting right? Could I use a 88T spur, 20t pinion? As that is the only other gearing I got apart from a 24t pinion? The BX Pro runs a 15t motor and runs 18t pinoin 88t spur. But could this be the problem?

Cheers

[evst 360]

Electric motors naturally have some resistance when not in use. If it is really hard to push, most likely the gear mesh is a little too tight. I'm leaning towards the motor though; I have found that my trinity CO27 has an amazing amount of resistance when not in use, due to the strong magnets in the can. I am willing to bet that your Trinity 19t has similar or even the same magnets, and that is causing the resistance. :cool:

[T/Losi]

Is there a base setting for the slipper clutch?

Cheers

[elecracr]

As long as your sure that your gear mesh is not too tight Im also willing to bet that it is just the resistance of the magnets in the motor. Is the car running well?

[vaderbxman]

For a baseline setting, I run about 1/3 to 1/2 turns out from fully tightened. If the track is really dry, I'll usually go for 3/4 turns. It just depends. The way I run it leads me to kill my slipper spring in about 5 months.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Is there a base setting for the slipper clutch?

Cheers

Well i have always done what it said in the Video that you get with it. Its basic but ive never had to change it. Put two lines in the ground (i think 4 feet apart) Start at the first line and go full accelaration. It should make a slightly louder squeal from the slipper clutch which should disappear when it hits the second line. Ive measured it that way and had not problem with it. I dont change it depending on what ground im on cause im too lazy :D

[ervaa]

Is there a base setting for the slipper clutch, so many turns out?

Cheers



http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/


its for evader bx's, it doesnt tell you how many turns but it tells you how to check if its set right
you have to scroll down a liitle bit, its not right on the top

oh yeah, i got my evader used and I think it had a different ESC than the stock one, what does the stock one look like

:)

[vaderbxman]

The stocker ESC for the regular evaders have a golden heat-sink and have a black case. They also say streak ESC on the front under the heatsink and next to the lights.

[Crash7772]

Well I guess this explains why I wasn't getting any update e-mails from the old thread.

The speed quest is put on hold for a bit due to lack of funds but I did pick up a MX-3 remote and installed my Mamba 5700 over the last month or so. I was going to do a radar pass 2 weekends ago but while doing so a local managed to spin out in front of me (with a Radio Shack car of all things) while I was going flat out. I punted his car about 15' and managed to shatter my front bumper and shock tower. I figure I'm running about 35-40 with the 6 cell Venom 3000 packs. Once I get some more funds I'll be buying a decent 7 and 8 cell pack for some serious speeds. So I guess the Jato race with my Boss is on hold for a bit as well. I'm going to try and make a video this weekend and will post it if I do.

[vaderbxman]

Electric will spank nitro for the first 15-20 feet. After that, make way. I wanted a mamba system for my upcomming T4, but a lack of funds is preventing me from doing so.......

[ervaa]

When did all you people that have evader st's get yours and how much did it cost?

I got mine usedfor $35 with everything (car, radio, battery, charger) about a year ago

It needed some minor parts, and I fixed it up for less than $30

[vaderbxman]

I got my Evader Pro off of tower for around 200. I aready had a charger and some batts for it then. My First evader was a regular ST that came with a charger for about 170, and my second evader was a BX kit that I got for around 100 dollars.

[vaderbxman]

I broke another part last week racing around my track. I busted the right-rear toe-in block. I'm glad that I had a spare one off of my BX, because those things are 10 bucks!!! :D

[rigrishracer22B]

WOW how did you break one of them..
on another note our local hobbyshop and raceway just had there first demo derby and an evader st won I will post a link of pics if anyone is interested?

[vaderbxman]

Yeah, show the picture!!! Please??


Anyway, I don't know the exact location of the break because it took me about a pack and a half to discover it. I do think that the day before I was racing for a video we were making (this one right here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSSCxVbaUOw) and I landed funny off one of the twin doubles in the back of the track. Then on the next day, I repeated that wreck, but I was going faster. Much faster. After my first pack, I thought the right-rear tire was loose because it was dancing around more than it usually does. I tighten it up, and throw it back in the track. While standing in the middle of the track, I saw the whole right-rear susupension assembly was shifting forward every time I hit the gas. After limping back to the pits, I showed my dad, and he said that was the same kind of part he broke on his Nitro evader ST.

It took me 9 and a half months to break that part, so I'm still impressed with the durability. It'll be my back-up ride for when my T4 will be down for parts.

[rigrishracer22B]

Ok here is the link there is movies of the derby too. I am in the pics too with my wins with a R/K S/K car.
Brandon

http://www.southboundraceway.com/photo/index.php

[tye]

Welcome back man!!! Man have things changed around here. I've been on for almost a year now, and I've learned alot and shared an equal amount of information with users. I've got the Evader ST Pro with the stock ESC and receiver, but I've got a 12T Orion V2 and a futaba s3305 servo to boot. I've put plenty of miles through her and I"ve only broken or tweaked fewer than 5 parts. The most expensive being a bent rear axle :eek:

We're glad to have ya back!!!
Im sorry to just but in but i just bought
a ele evader st i was just wantin to know
what is the lowest turn motor this thing
can take without burning up?

[evst 360]

What ESC does it have? Its either the dtx sprint, or the dtx intellispeed fwd/rev esc. I know the evaders used to come with sprint, but I heard somewhere they put the intellispeed in there. I am also assuming you have the regular non-pro version. Which version do you have?

[tye]

What ESC does it have? Its either the dtx sprint, or the dtx intellispeed fwd/rev esc. I know the evaders used to come with sprint, but I heard somewhere they put the intellispeed in there. I am also assuming you have the regular non-pro version. Which version do you have?
i have the regular version i have a duratrax 8t pro esc and
a mambamax also a traxxas xl also the one that it came with.
im puttin the 8t pro on it to see how it does in the future
im going to put the mm on it

[vaderbxman]

If you go below 15T with the Evaders, you will want to add a aluminum idler gear in the tranny and rebuild the differential with carbide diff balls to prolng life. Other than that, It's just minor things, like better tires, a servo that'll turn quick, and getting better at driving. The mamba doesn't have a turn limit, which is cool. However, the lower turns you go, the more maintinence you'll have to do to the brushes and com.

Hope this helps! :D

[tye]

If you go below 15T with the Evaders, you will want to add a aluminum idler gear in the tranny and rebuild the differential with carbide diff balls to prolng life. Other than that, It's just minor things, like better tires, a servo that'll turn quick, and getting better at driving. The mamba doesn't have a turn limit, which is cool. However, the lower turns you go, the more maintinence you'll have to do to the brushes and com.

Hope this helps! :D
Thanks alot man i had a traxxas rustler its not made
for gearing low turn motors in other words i put alot
of money into something that sucks.Thanks for your
help.

[rigrishracer22B]

I run a 11 turn in my evader with the streak esc and so far the only thing I have went through was a diff the spur and the pinion gears. also when you go to higher turns you need to get better batteries cause it will make your batteries drain faster -less runtime.

[vaderbxman]

And run alot hotter too, keep that in mind.

I have experience with only ni-cads, so this might be different for Ni-Mh's.

[rigrishracer22B]

Well what did yall think of the demo derby Im not a real big derby fan but I would like to take my car and tear the crap out of it especially when it dosent handle the way it should.

[vaderbxman]

Heh, I thougt it was pretty cool. I'm trying to look for a free picture hosting website so I can show ya'll some sweet pics my dad took today. I'll post them in a bit if I can find the link.

edit: Here they are.....

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/1298/p5060032dg3.jpg

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5239/p5060036ik2.jpg

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/6451/p5060037tc9.jpg

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/1293/p5060051hs1.jpg

[rigrishracer22B]

Sweet pics I cant wait to get our track up and running after all the carpet racing I have been doing with the tc4 I need to kick it sideways on the dirt oval with the evader :cool:

[vaderbxman]

That's not half of the pics. He got some more, but it's of the same 3 spots.

glad ya liked them!!!

[duratraxguy]

Hey All,
I have a quick question, is it possible to upgrade the tranny on the evader to a two speed? seems like it should be.

[evst 360]

nope. Way to hard and costly, you would have to fab it yourself. It will just add alot of weight to the car. Plus electrics dont need 2 speeds.

[rigrishracer22B]

It can be done but only if you know what your doing and if you have the time money and patience you will have to upgrade the rear end of your truck also your motor and esc.

[duratraxguy]

I don't know, just because it's electric, doesn't mean it doesn't need it. I mess around with my buddy and when he hits second gear off he goes. I would have thought this would be a hop up out there aready. More money than buying a nice brushless system and esc?

[evst 360]

I don't know, just because it's electric, doesn't mean it doesn't need it. I mess around with my buddy and when he hits second gear off he goes. I would have thought this would be a hop up out there aready. More money than buying a nice brushless system and esc?
Electric motors have a nice rpm range, and dont need 2 speeds. Nitros have lower rpm's and more torque and a 2 speed is more beneficial.

It probably wont be as much as a bl system, but it will take some money, and will be a PITA to fabricate. If you've got the money go brushless.

[vaderbxman]

Electric motors have a nice rpm range, and dont need 2 speeds. Nitros have lower rpm's and more torque and a 2 speed is more beneficial.

It probably wont be as much as a bl system, but it will take some money, and will be a PITA to fabricate. If you've got the money go brushless.


Amen. Go with either mamba or Novak as choices.

[rigrishracer22B]

Novak has always worked for me but I havent had any of there brushless stuff but Im trying not to buy brushless since I just bought a comm lathe.

[hunterbahnsen]

Hey all. Just wanted to post a few pictures of my latest Evader project.
Test & tuning will follow soon.



Dura Trax Evader ST Pro

Castle Creations Mamba Max speed control

Fine Design 540S-7 brushless motor 5070/kv

Hitec HS-6975HB digital servo

Hitec aluminum servo arm

Pro-Line Crowd Pleaser 2.0 Jato body

GRP Micro 2.2 rear tires

GRP Cutter 2.2 front tires

RPM wide front bumper Traxxas / Rustler

HGI Associated RC10 1845.0 alloy diff gear

Associated RC10T2 front and rear wheels

Fastener-Express aluminum hardware

Associated aluminum ball ends

HGI titanium ball ends

Dura Trax carbide diff balls

Dura Trax titanium turnbuckles

Dura Trax titanium hinge pins

Dura Trax aluminum trans idler gear

SMC IB3600 7-cell battery

Dura Trax top fill blue anodized Overdrive ST shocks

Futaba R133F Rx

Futaba 3PM FM Tx

W.S.Deans Wet Noodle 12-gauge wire

W.S.Deans Ultra connector

[rigrishracer22B]

nice truck and welcome too the forums. :wave:

[vaderbxman]

Welcome aboard!!!!

Did you have to change any of the mounts for the Overdrive shocks to fit onto the Evader, or were they direct fits? I also like the Crowdpleaser body and the RPM front bumper. If I had the money, I'd make mine look like that. Sweet ride man!!

[hunterbahnsen]

Thanks guys!

The shocks are modified; I used the Evader shafts, HGI pistons (turned down to fit the OD’s bodies) and installed bump stops on the rears so not to bottom out the pistons on the bladders, other than that they fit really nice.

[vaderbxman]

Cool! I like the blue look too.

I'm looking at some triple-XT shocks online that I want to use to replace the leaky ones I got now that don't hold anything back. I know they fit, but should I just go buy a new set of Evader shocks or Triple-XT shocks?

[redhatman]

vader, I dont think it is going to make much difference. The Evader ones are threaded at least.. I am not sure of the XXX-T ones.

On a side note, anyone interested in a rollcage for the evader? I have one out of 1/8" steel, the stock body of mine weighs in at 3.2 oz, and the cage only weighs 6 oz. flat. All joints welded.

Let me know if you are interested. Nice simple, strong design.
Has held up so far.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n62/Backyard-RC/DSCN1292.jpg

[evst 360]

no price eh? I'll take it! :D:D:D


jk

sounds neat. How much?

[vaderbxman]

I think the triple-XT ones are of a better quality, so that's why I'm inclined towards them. Do you know of any other shocks that would fit the Evader that I would find on Ebay?

[redhatman]

no price eh? I'll take it! :D:D:D


jk

sounds neat. How much?

I am not sure on the price. Go ahead and shoot me a pm with your offer.

[cheech4]

Hey all. Just wanted to post a few pictures of my latest Evader project.
Test & tuning will follow soon.



Dura Trax Evader ST Pro

Castle Creations Mamba Max speed control

Fine Design 540S-7 brushless motor 5070/kv

Hitec HS-6975HB digital servo

Hitec aluminum servo arm

Pro-Line Crowd Pleaser 2.0 Jato body

GRP Micro 2.2 rear tires

GRP Cutter 2.2 front tires

RPM wide front bumper Traxxas / Rustler

HGI Associated RC10 1845.0 alloy diff gear

Associated RC10T2 front and rear wheels

Fastener-Express aluminum hardware

Associated aluminum ball ends

HGI titanium ball ends

Dura Trax carbide diff balls

Dura Trax titanium turnbuckles

Dura Trax titanium hinge pins

Dura Trax aluminum trans idler gear

SMC IB3600 7-cell battery

Dura Trax top fill blue anodized Overdrive ST shocks

Futaba R133F Rx

Futaba 3PM FM Tx

W.S.Deans Wet Noodle 12-gauge wire

W.S.Deans Ultra connector


hey hunter what did you do to modify the bumper to fit??? do the holes line up?? also do the holes line up on the jato pleazer body. looks MINT!!!

[vaderbxman]

I think he added some rear body mounts to get the body to fit over the shock towers, which brings me to my next question; What body posts did you use to get the body to sit like that, and do they make longer ones of that?

[hunterbahnsen]

The Traxxas bumper only has two mounting holes and they don’t line up.
The Evader uses four holes, so I used the front bulkhead for a template marked and drilled new holes.

The Pro-Line Jato body didn’t come with mounting holes, this made things go smoother,
However the body sat to low on the Evader so it had to be raised a bit, I used adjustable sliding body posts from a HPI car (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZK81&P=X) and cut them down to the length I needed.

[cheech4]

very cool man, very cool!!!!. when my front bumper goes on my evader i will definetly pick me up one of those. thanks for the input.

[vaderbxman]

I went for the xx-T bumper wayyyyyy back when, but this looks like abetter bumper to, "suit" my needs! :D

[Haruchai]

I'm thinking seriously of buying either the Evader BX or the ST, and though I can find the BX in a Pro version, I can't seem to find a Pro version of the ST. At least not at Tower Hobbies. Is this still available, or should I just go with the BX Pro?

Thanks!

[vaderbxman]

The ST Pro is no longer offered by Duratrax for sale. Occasionally, Ebay will have one new in box, but it's a once a month thing. Personally, I hated how the Evader BX Pro turned, but that might just be my driving style or I didn't tune it right. The BX Pro does come with some awesome electronics and a great radio for bashers. If you really wanted to, you could convert the BX to an ST for under 70-80 bucks.

And the Evader is a great car. I think I forgot to mention that in my post. :D

update: Well, I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Evader-st-pro-rc-sport-truck-duratrax-futaba_W0QQitemZ180120001617QQihZ008QQcategoryZ440 29QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

It looks like a good deal, and it looks pretty new.

[Elisiah]

what is a decent servo to use on the ST the one that came with mine the gear with the spline on it got chewed up.

[vaderbxman]

Welcome aboard!

My stock servo for the Evader ST went pretty quickly, and it annoyed me when it repeatedly broke. I went to tower hobbies and bought a Futaba S3305 servo. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=ML)

After getting that servo near christmas time last year, I have never had a problem with my steering. I have broken a knuckle arm, but that was just my carelessness and hard driving.

That should do ya!

[cheech4]

get a MG" metal geared servo" and all ur problems with seervos will go away...

I like either the hitec mg645, the futaba 3305, or the Jr z590. but the first 2 are better.

[Elisiah]

thanx I think I will go with the Futaba 3305 I appreciate the info and help

[vaderbxman]

My dad has the Jr z590 in his turmoil, and he doesn't like it so much. He says it doesn't have the torque to swing the front tires.

[redhatman]

Guys...I listed the evader for sale. Check it out

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemID=292752

[vaderbxman]

I hate to see Evaders go, but you gotta do what you gotta do. I like the care ya put into it too, like all new screw and stuff.

Good luck!!

[cheech4]

i had 2 evaders at one point then i had money problems, had to get rid of one of them, i had the ST and the BX, both pre version.. i let go of the BX. it was either that or not go to a very romantic trip to the niagra falls with my now EX girlfriend.

[redhatman]

I hate to see Evaders go, but you gotta do what you gotta do. I like the care ya put into it too, like all new screw and stuff.

Good luck!!


Well, I have an emaxx and two other vehicles that are brushless and lipo powered, all of mine are 4wd besides the evader. I just want to sell this package to someone that can use it, its a great price also. I am actually thinking of raising it again.

[vaderbxman]

Lol, that sucks with the niagra falls deal.

My dad bought a micro-t today at the LHS, and that thing rips. I can't wait to see the thing on a full charge rofl.

[evst 360]

ok guys my evader st's transmission is acting up. A few months ago I broke the transmission case, and bought a new one. I assembled it, and the transmission will not rotate without a little force. I checked the bearings and all of them roll smoothly. I have narrowed it down to the top gear/shaft, but it still stumps me. I did find that if I loosened the screws a little and pryed the case open a crack it would roll a little smoother, but still is not as free as it was before I replaced the case. Any ideas anyone? any help is much appreciated.

[redhatman]

ok guys my evader st's transmission is acting up. A few months ago I broke the transmission case, and bought a new one. I assembled it, and the transmission will not rotate without a little force. I checked the bearings and all of them roll smoothly. I have narrowed it down to the top gear/shaft, but it still stumps me. I did find that if I loosened the screws a little and pryed the case open a crack it would roll a little smoother, but still is not as free as it was before I replaced the case. Any ideas anyone? any help is much appreciated.

I have no clue, just tear is completely down, bearings and everything. Clean it all and inspect all gears for the slightest wearings. When you put the case back together make sure it sits evenly.

[vaderbxman]

take the tranny apart and roll the top shaft. If it feels grabby, it'll be the inner bearing, which is a pain in the arse to get out. My top shaft let go at one point, and it turns out it was bent!!

see if any of the gears in the tranny stripped or looks weird too.

[evst 360]

okay took it apart again, and, after much agony, found the problem. You were close Vader with the inner bearing. It was the hole for the top shaft. It was slightly too small. Drilled it out a little and viola - a free rotating tranny. Now I just have to figure out why my motor brushes keep hanging...

[vaderbxman]

Well, at least I was close!! :D

What motor you running?

[evst 360]

Orion Method R V2 17x2. Even with the revolution's "v2" aluminum heatsink endbell, it still heats up very fast, and does not produce as much power as it used to. I have tried cleaning out the motor, re-aligning the brushes with the comm, sliding them in and out in the brush hoods to loosed them, cleaning off the comm, all to no avail. Any ideas Vader? or anyone else?

[vaderbxman]

My 12T Orion Sv2 has that same problem real bad. I just tried to clean it until it finally gave out 2 months ago. I used this comm cleaning stick, and it worked great after I cleaned off the comm and brushes with it.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUE64&P=ML

I'm going to try the Speed gems motors when funds allow. (the 13T version)

[jobo_ph]

Orion Method R V2 17x2. Even with the revolution's "v2" aluminum heatsink endbell, it still heats up very fast, and does not produce as much power as it used to. I have tried cleaning out the motor, re-aligning the brushes with the comm, sliding them in and out in the brush hoods to loosed them, cleaning off the comm, all to no avail. Any ideas Vader? or anyone else?

Go brushless? ;)

[vaderbxman]

That's what I've got planned too. Novak offers a "sport" system (oddly enough, they don't want you to call it a sport system) for 1/10 electric. They offer a 27T version, a 19T version and a 15T version.

The 15T version: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRST1&P=7

The 19T version: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXRST7&P=V

The 27T version: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXRST8&P=V

For under 200, I think it's a bargin to never have to worry about brushess again. I'm looking at the 15T version myself for the most speed I can get!!! :D

[jobo_ph]

what is a decent servo to use on the ST the one that came with mine the gear with the spline on it got chewed up.

I'm using a Futaba S3050 on mine.

When you get a new servo, please don't forget to put some grease into the mating parts of the servo saver and adjust the tension on the spring accordingly.

They come without any form of lubrication from the factory and has caused me woes before with the steering arm stripping its spline teeth (from bad collisions during races) with a hi-torque metal-geared servo.

[vaderbxman]

I've been lucky with my servo arm and haven't stripped the teeth out.







Yet.:D

[redhatman]

Vader, those novak sport systems arent anything more than 15 or so turn brushless motors without the maintenence. My neighbor just got one, and here is the results against 2 brushed vehicles.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04Uhpy7gUsU The race is right at the end. The red one is the one with the brushless.

[vaderbxman]

He didn't beat them by much did he?

I don't mind if I don't see an improvement in speed or acceleration: What I'm looking for is an increase in motor durability and decrease in maintinence, and I think I'm gonna be pleased with this system.

Thanks for sharing the video!!

[evst 360]

I had one of those orion comm sticks, and it broke on me. Found an eraser laying around and it seems to do a better job, just cannot fit through the brush hoods. As for the motor the comm is fine, but for some reason the brush/comm connection is not very efficient and releasing alot of heat. Do you suppose its the hot weather? :D About the brushless: I am definately considering it, but the funds are holding me back. The new xbr systems do look enticing though, especially if the ex8.5 is equivalent to the ss5800.

[vaderbxman]

Hey, as long as I have the speed and torque to clear the two doubles and a couple of singles at my track and still make decent lap times, I'm happy!!

I got lucky because the local community college is doing a summer work experience/orientation thing that pays you 30 dollars per day (8 days, minus cost of gas, that's about enough to get me the XBR!)

[jobo_ph]

I've been lucky with my servo arm and haven't stripped the teeth out.







Yet.:D

Good for you :)

I was using the Duratrax SX-210MG servo on my BX and ST Pros before and I think the main culprit of the steering arm spline stripping out was caused by the incorrect fitting tolerances with the output spline from the servo.

Lubing the servo saver really helped reduce stripping while I was still using the SX210MG.

However, when I started using Futaba S3050s, I haven't had steering arm stripping problems although I can see some stress in the steering servo arm splines.

I think Duratrax could make the material used on the steering servo arm harder. Right now, I think they're a little soft for the part.

AND... I really wished they made the steering servo arm marks (i.e. A, F, H) bigger. It's a pain trying to read them inside the splines. They're too small.

[vaderbxman]

I didn't know that they were even marked. Good eye!

[jobo_ph]

I didn't know that they were even marked. Good eye!

Honestly, I found it so strange that the servo arms had no obvious markings. For as long as I had been in this hobby, other servo arms/servo saver splines had always been marked properly.

If I think about it, the only logic I could see why the marking of the Duratrax Evader steering arms were inside the splines was for the manufacturer's benefit. They could easily identify the mold. :rolleyes:

[vaderbxman]

I haven't run into that problem yet because I'm still using futaba radio gear.

I'm about to strip my Evader all the way down and rebuild it, replacing worn-out pieces and such, and would like your help. What parts should I pre-order in preparation of my tear-down?

Thanks!

[redhatman]

I haven't run into that problem yet because I'm still using futaba radio gear.

I'm about to strip my Evader all the way down and rebuild it, replacing worn-out pieces and such, and would like your help. What parts should I pre-order in preparation of my tear-down?

Thanks!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFZP0&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSX6&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHEE3&P=7

Those are 3 things I was going to put on my evader sooner or later, but I have gotten rid of the evader.

[jobo_ph]

I haven't run into that problem yet because I'm still using futaba radio gear.

I'm about to strip my Evader all the way down and rebuild it, replacing worn-out pieces and such, and would like your help. What parts should I pre-order in preparation of my tear-down?

Thanks!

My apologies but I am not aware... do you have the regular BX or the BX Pro?

To start:

1. 4 pcs 5x10mm rubber shielded bearings (for rear hub)
2. 4 pcs 3/16"x1/8" rubber shielded bearings (for front wheel)
3. 2 pcs 12x18mm rubber shielded bearings (for diff assy)
4. RPM Heavy Duty Rod Ends
5. Ball Studs Short and Long (Duratrax or Associated)
6. Associated Ball Cup Dust Cover (part no. 6272)
7. Duratrax Servo Saver Shaft Set (DTXC8884)
8. DuraTrax Servo Saver High Rate Steering Evader (DTXC8894)

9. Hinge pin set (DTXC8028)
- This will depend on condition of existing ones.

10. B2 diff gear (part no. 9365)
11. B2 diff rings (part no. 9367)
12. 1 pc. 5x8mm bearing (for B2 diff gear)
13. 12 pcs Ceramic balls 2.4mm or 3/32"
- I got this from Walawala on eBay or www.acerracing.com (faster if ur in the US)
14. 6 pcs Ceramic balls 1/16"
- I got this from Walawala on eBay or www.acerracing.com (faster if ur in the US)
15. Aluminum Idler gear (if you dont have it yet)
16. DuraTrax Slipper Pad Blue Evader ST/BX (DTXC9322)
17. DuraTrax Heat Sink/Motor Mount (DTXC7980)
- Stock one even on the Pro bends easily and I had to straighten mine on several occasions until I got the heatsink one which is thicker

18. DTXC9727 DuraTrax Shock Shaft Fr Titanium Nitride Evader BX (2)
19. DTXC9729 DuraTrax Shock Shaft Fr Titanium Nitride Evader ST (2)
20. Associated Rebuild Kit New Shocks (Part num 6440)
- I feel the associated o-rings are better than the ones offered by Duratrax
- I now use AE piston #1 on my BX Pro (front and rear)
21. 2 sets DTXC9056 DuraTrax Shock Seal Set Evader ST (2)
- Depends on condition of existing ones
22. 2 sets DTXC9068 DuraTrax Shock Parts Set Evader ST
- Depends on condition of existing ones
23. Associated Silicon Shock Oil (30wt)

[vaderbxman]

Thanks for digging-up those parts for me!

I know my screenname says BX man, but I'm currently driving the ST Pro. I'm gonna rebuild it because I'm seriously looking at the Traxxas Brushless system they are going to offer. The aluminum idler gear and other parts to strengthen it are going to be priority, but new bearings for the majority of it are next.

Thanks!

[evst 360]

ok guys I need to replace my idler gear. Its half stripped. lol. The stripped part is only half of a few of the teeth, so it still works, just is a little weaker. I was looking at the aluminum idler, but I dropped that idea when I saw the $17 price tag. Does anyone know of any other idlers that will work? Like maybe the rc10b2 idler? I know the b2 diff gear fits, so if the designs are similar maybe it will fit? Anybody know of any others that might fit? Any help with this is appreciated.

[jobo_ph]

ok guys I need to replace my idler gear. Its half stripped. lol. The stripped part is only half of a few of the teeth, so it still works, just is a little weaker. I was looking at the aluminum idler, but I dropped that idea when I saw the $17 price tag. Does anyone know of any other idlers that will work? Like maybe the rc10b2 idler? I know the b2 diff gear fits, so if the designs are similar maybe it will fit? Anybody know of any others that might fit? Any help with this is appreciated.

Hmmm, let's see...

Evader idler gear:
- rides on 5x10mm bearings
- 5mm shaft

B2 idler gear:
- rides on 3/16"x3/8" bearings
- 3/16" shaft

3/8" = 9.525mm

If you can have some machine shop ream off 0.475mm material from the B2 idler gear, or perhaps, ream the B2 idler gear with a 10mm drill bit, then the 5x10mm bearings will fit and the 5mm shaft can be used.

Quite feasible, eh? :)

Will try to get my hands on spare B2 idler gears and try it. ;)

------------------

Addendum:

I forgot to consider the width of the bearings

5x10mm bearings have 4mm width

3/16"x3/8" bearings have 1/8" width

1/8" = 3.175mm

So, 0.825mm of material also has to be removed from the B2 idler gear so that the 5x10mm bearings will sit properly inside the B2 idler gear (and not protude).

-----------

Hmmm, maybe that's a bit too much trouble for the B2 idler gear to fit? :) Might be better you just get the expensive alloy idler gear?

[vaderbxman]

The aluminum idler gear price seems steep, but it's a good price to pay.

It is up to you though.....

[built2last]

:mad: I just have bought an evader. Ive got a mm and a feiago
5914kv motor well im not to happy with it ive been through out
the whole truck doing mods to improve this thing. Im mad because
i burnt up my factory diff gear then i bought another factory diff
it burnt to and just a few days i recieved my b2 diff it burnt up
to I"m new to this dff gear and i need help.I tighten the gear as tight as i could but i didnt lube it up could this be the problm. All suggestions welcome
just help me fix this d*mn thing please.

[vaderbxman]

Tightening the Diff all the way is probably what's doing it. After rebuilding it, tighten it all the wy and back it off an 1/8th of a turn.

Another thing to look at is your slipper clutch setting. It should be slipping just a little upon hard acceleration, but not enough to slip all the time.


I know this sounds pretty bad with the differenetial destroying itself time and time again. You can try carbide diff balls to aid in rebuild time, but the diff is going to let go every now and then.


Hope this helps!

[scoob]

:mad: I just have bought an evader. Ive got a mm and a feiago
5914kv motor well im not to happy with it ive been through out
the whole truck doing mods to improve this thing. Im mad because
i burnt up my factory diff gear then i bought another factory diff
it burnt to and just a few days i recieved my b2 diff it burnt up
to I"m new to this dff gear and i need help.I tighten the gear as tight as i could but i didnt lube it up could this be the problm. All suggestions welcome
just help me fix this d*mn thing please.

I think you should lube the diff. To me that seems like the problem. Even if your slipper is set loose and your diff is tight and therefore not slipping, the diff is still doing it's job which is providing more power to the outside wheel when you turn. There is always going to be friction in a ball diff unless you never turn. That builds heat and without lube you can get a melted diff. This http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2882&P=ML is what I use. I think ball diffs should always be lubed. Good luck.:)

[built2last]

Thanks guys ill be getting back to you when i get
the parts and let you know what happens

[vaderbxman]

I just finished-up my last day at my college working for money, so the check is due in soon.


hello 6900 mamba!!

[evst 360]

Hmmm, let's see...

Evader idler gear:
- rides on 5x10mm bearings
- 5mm shaft

B2 idler gear:
- rides on 3/16"x3/8" bearings
- 3/16" shaft

3/8" = 9.525mm

If you can have some machine shop ream off 0.475mm material from the B2 idler gear, or perhaps, ream the B2 idler gear with a 10mm drill bit, then the 5x10mm bearings will fit and the 5mm shaft can be used.

Quite feasible, eh? :)

Will try to get my hands on spare B2 idler gears and try it. ;)

------------------

Addendum:

I forgot to consider the width of the bearings

5x10mm bearings have 4mm width

3/16"x3/8" bearings have 1/8" width

1/8" = 3.175mm

So, 0.825mm of material also has to be removed from the B2 idler gear so that the 5x10mm bearings will sit properly inside the B2 idler gear (and not protude).

-----------

Hmmm, maybe that's a bit too much trouble for the B2 idler gear to fit? :) Might be better you just get the expensive alloy idler gear?

hmmmmm, yeah. The b2 idler has 2 teeth less than the evader one, so that may present a problem too. I found this idler though that might work: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTT0&P=7. Its got the same outer diameter, and uses the same bearings as the b2 idler, so with a little machining it might fit?

Yeah yeah I know it took me a while :D

Vader: Nice!

[vaderbxman]

Well, there's some good news, then some bad news. The good news is that Tower is having a sale so I can spend 30 dollars more than I can, but the bad news is that my check might not come in time. (the 31st)

For my B-day I'm hoping my folks will pimp my Evader. I got aluminum front arms, knuckle arms, and hubs on the list, as well as the better motor plate (machined aluminum). I've also got a full transmission workover comming, with aluminum idler gear, B2 diff, carbide diff balls, and a whole bunch of various little parts that have worn out on my truck.

I want to bomb-proof my ride, and make it to where i don't have to care about if it's gonna land a jump in one piece, but instead see how much air I can get!! :D:D:D

[diggernz]

http://images.onesite.com/diggernz.rcmate.org/4450553353.jpg
http://images.onesite.com/diggernz.rcmate.org/4188124425.jpg
My Evader with purple crowd pleazer body

[vaderbxman]

Is that the xx-t crowdpleaser body or a different one. I'm kind of wanting a new body, but would like a new design.

Nice vader there!

[diggernz]

Is that the xx-t crowdpleaser body or a different one. I'm kind of wanting a new body, but would like a new design.

Nice vader there!
Thanks mate, I think its a crowd pleazer 2 body. It came with the truck.

[vaderbxman]

Cool! It looks nicer than the stocker. mine's barely in one piece.

[built2last]

I just had done the b2 diff gear conversion i just
was wanting to know what is the gear ratio on my
evader now? Also what is the correct adjustments
so i wont burn this thing up again? Also whats a good
gear setup /speed/with a feiago 5914s with a mm esc?
thank you

[vaderbxman]

The ratio of the stocker transmission was 2:66 to one, so I don't think it's too far off of that.

As for speed, do you know how many RPM it'll turn with your battery attached? I've got a program that can figure out top speed from motor RPM.

[evaderst69]

i got my evader fixed tonight.. i cant believe how much i missed drivin it.. one battery and i was hooked i just went thriugh 4 batteries in the dark going up and down my street.. its not brushless yet its running on an old 27t stock motor on a novak cyclone esc it has a 17t pinion right now im thinkin about goin up to like a 20 so i can get some top end.. next pay im thinkin about gettin this motor so i can get used to driving a bit before i go brushless ive been out of the hobby for like a year and a half


Clicky (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLRE2&P=0)

[built2last]

The ratio of the stocker transmission was 2:66 to one, so I don't think it's too far off of that.

As for speed, do you know how many RPM it'll turn with your battery attached? I've got a program that can figure out top speed from motor RPM.
Well as for my motor ive got a 5914kv motor on 6c elite 4500
ib 4200 6c and two 7c ib 3600 bat and yes i would like to know
the web site to that also what is a good fast but sweet gear
thatll run good with my 88 spur gear?

[built2last]

Ive gotta ? ive just got a 40 mm fan from radio shack i know its
a lil big but i got it to work sitting upright but it works My ? is
would it work better upright or over the esc the way it is now
im gettin temp readings of 109 geared 19/81 without the fan
the mm controller was to hot to touch after not even 1/2 a
pack good but i still havent got to regearing or trying my 7c
packs right now im running 6c ib 4200s.

[rcracer13]

Hi all,
Im totally new to RC and bought a Evader ST Pro used with a battery, charger, 2 bodies and 3 sets of tires for 50$. I was wondering what are must have upgrades for the car? I need a new battery what are some good ones that you guys would recommend? And i need a gearcover (i think thats what they are called) would hobbytown have those in stock?
Thanks All for your help

[vaderbxman]

Welcome aboard!!

Must-have upgrades are gonna be the steering servo and better battery connectors. A good servo would be this:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=ML

It's cheap, and it's got metal gears, so they don't strip out. A good connector to use instead of the white plastic things are Deans or Powerpoles.

Deans: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX39&P=ML
Powerpole: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD175&P=7

I'm set to switch out to deans myself, as they don't melt with high-output batteries, which leads me to good batteries. You can spend a fortune on awesome batteries, or you can get some that are great for bashers.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUH3&P=ML

These are pretty good, but make sure you have a charger that can charge ni-Mh batteries.

If hobbytown doesn't have your gear cover, try tower hobbies. They have great service and ship pretty fast to boot. The part number you need is DTXC7870

If you need anything else just give us a hollar!

[rcracer13]

Thanks for the help, tomorow i will be stopping at Hobbytown for the gearcover. I was also planning on buying a Thunder Sport 3200 mAh pack since its only $21. So do i need a solder to apply the Deans connecters? Are these hard to apply? Thanks again for all of the help

[evst 360]

Yes, deans plugs require soldering. I explained the process in another thread earlier today.

EDIT: heres the thread: http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=241148

[vaderbxman]

Be sure to make the tabs that you solder on extremely clean before you solder, or the joints will fall apart.

And evst's link is pretty good!:D

[evaderst69]

will the nitro cv drive shafts work on my electric evader i kno they are 1.2mm smaller but ilike cvs better that the dogbone axels that come on the truck

[rcracer13]

Hello All
Well i was running my st yesterday and i broke a suspension arm, my question is does anyone make them im aluminum? Im gonna try to make it bullet proof
Thanks for the help

[vaderbxman]

Alright, I'll try to get both questions answered here.

Evaderst69: Yes, the Nitro Evader ST CVD's will fit the electric Evader with no problems at all. I've got them on my Evader right now as a matter of fact.

rcracer13: Golden Horizons makes aluminum arms for the Evader ST. If you broke a front A-arm, they make aluminum arms, but they DO NOT make rear aluminum arms. You may see them titled as such, but the rear arms on the Nitro Evader ST are different from the electric Evader. Here's a link to the arms: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGDH1&P=Z

They make blue arms, but they are out of stock right now. If you're looking to bullet-proof all of your suspension bits and steering knuckles and such, here's a couple links worth looking at:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGDG4&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGDG6&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGDG8&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBVG1&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGAT2&P=M

I hope this helps, and welcome to the Evader forum guys!

[rcracer13]

Thanks for the help vader
I would also like to know does anyone know if this charger can handle Ni-MH its a
Model Craft Pro Tech Autopeak Ac/Dc 706 Digital.
Ive looked but cant find any info on it

[vaderbxman]

No probs!

Sorry, but I don't know about that charger.

[rcracer13]

So vader what are you running for your rear suspension arms graphite or plastic? I hav a pro but may be switching som things out for aluminum/plastic

[vaderbxman]

I'm running graphite arms in the back. They are still the originals, but the threads to the lower shock mount has stripped out on the left side. I CA glued the hole, but I need some new arms eventually.

I wish someone made aluminum rear A-arms for the Evader, but they don't, sadly.

Oh, and I got some new batts and a charger today. I'll show you what I got tomorrow, cause I've got to go.

[evaderst69]

Well i got a decent amount of upgrades for my evader today from tower the only thing i didnt get is a metal idler which ill get next paycheck money is kinda tight right.. I got..

Associated LRP V10 Spec4 Motor 9T Double
Nitro Evader CV Driveshafts
DuraTrax Blue Front Bumper
DuraTrax Hinge Pin Brace Hard Anodized Aluminum
Pro-Line Dirt Hawg Tires
An Assortment of E-Clips
88T Spur
Associated Blue Body Clips

Will post some pics up of my truck after i get all the parts and install them

[vaderbxman]

Awesome!!

If you break another bumper, or just want a new one, get this one from RPM:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV25&P=7

It's a direct drop-in with no mods. It's pretty cool too because it doesn't dig into the ground like the stocker


Anyway, yesterday I got a new charger ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML)

And some new batts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMND3&P=ML)

I'll let ya'll know how they run because I'm going to the track this weekend.

[TeamMishap]

Hey guys...

Haven't stopped in here in forever. Was stationed in Germany for three years taking care of the injured war heroes that flew into Landstuhl. Got hooked on R/C helis, so my Evader and E-maxx sat neglected and broken.

I'm back stateside now (Montgomery, AL) and live right next to an elementary school, so my 6 year old kiddo is FINALLY getting to thrash his cheapo HPI Porsche.

Jealous, I dug out my Evader ST and remember why it was mothballed. I shredded the servo. Today, I dropped a new one in (a Hobbico, dual bearing, 42 oz/in torque jobber that I bought forever ago, still new in box, in the bottom of my toolbox).

I centered it. Mounted the servo horn. Installed it and plugged it in. Left twist and right twist of the controller and all looked good. I took it out, put it down and drove about 30 seconds. It got stuck going right. Twisting the controller, it moved a bit and buried right again. So, it trimmed it center, turned the controller right again, and there it stuck again.

It wasn't interference from my son's car, as his tx was off when this was happening.

Did I get a POS servo? I would think 42 oz/inches of torque would suffice.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

[evaderst69]

I only got a bumper cuz my evader didnt come with one.. but if this one breaks ill look into the rpm one.. also how long will my stock idler gear be able to handle this motor

[evst 360]

not long. If you have the slipper excessively loose, it might last a little while. But If the slipper is tight, kiss it goodbye :D Just leave it loose, and drive it easy, and it should last you until you can get the aluminum one.

Mishap: Do you have another servo you could pop in there to test it? That should tell you if its the servo or the receiver. That is a pretty cheap servo. 42 oz/in is the bare minimum. It works, but for about $30 you can get a much better one. The futaba s3305 comes to mind. Vaderbxman has that as his steering servo in his evader (If my memory is correct) and he says it works fine. I have it as the steering servo in a 1/8 buggy and its pretty good.

[vaderbxman]

The 3305 is overkill for the Evader, but that's good.

I also should mention that the servo spine on the top gear (the gear comming out of the servo) has a different count of teeth than the Futaba/Duratrax servo you had. Somewhere on tower you can buy new servo arms that fit the Evader.

[TeamMishap]

The 3305 is overkill for the Evader, but that's good.

I also should mention that the servo spine on the top gear (the gear comming out of the servo) has a different count of teeth than the Futaba/Duratrax servo you had. Somewhere on tower you can buy new servo arms that fit the Evader.

It's probably a junked servo. I'll go buy a new one tomorrow. Worst case scenario, I have a nice new Futaba servo.

[vaderbxman]

Good way to look at it!

You aren't gonna be dissapointed.

[TeamMishap]

The 3305 is overkill for the Evader, but that's good.

I also should mention that the servo spine on the top gear (the gear comming out of the servo) has a different count of teeth than the Futaba/Duratrax servo you had. Somewhere on tower you can buy new servo arms that fit the Evader.

I'm a bit confused...

The Hobbico servo or the Futaba servo has a different tooth pitch than the Evader's servo horn?

Thanks.

[vaderbxman]

The Hobbico has a different tooth count.

It's not that big of a difference, but it makes it hard to put on the servo arm, and can lead to stripping out the servo horn, but I think you didn't do any dammage the other day.

Hope that helped!

[TeamMishap]

The Hobbico has a different tooth count.

It's not that big of a difference, but it makes it hard to put on the servo arm, and can lead to stripping out the servo horn, but I think you didn't do any dammage the other day.

Hope that helped!

That was exactly the problem. The Hobbico servo was moving appropriately, but the gear was just spinning inside of the Duratrax stock servo horn. Off to Tower to order some new bits.

The Futaba 3305 servo says it's only for use with NiCds. Any problems using NiMH with 6 cells?

[vaderbxman]

It says it's only for Ni-Cd because when Ni-Mh batteries were new, they didn't provide enough amps to power a servo. Now days, that's not a problem because modern Ni-Mh batteries pump out more amps than Ni-cads. It really shouldn't say that anymore, but oh well.

If you're still skeptical, I just came back from running my Evader with a S3305 servo and a 3800 mAh Ni-Mh battery.

[built2last2]

Ive just got new slipper pads put everything back
the way its suposed to be ajusted my slipper oh by the
way cleaned the brass bushin as stated in another forum
the slipper isnt touchin any metal but my motor still turns
without any wheel spin my diff is ok just rebuild it and well
ajusted all gears are metal besides diff can anyone help me with
this one i love drivin my vader and this is getin to be a pain in the a**.

[evst 360]

Can you give us some more info? Like is the spur gear spinning? Is an axle turning? How much throttle does it take for the slippage to occur? It could be a number of things, like the pin that allows the slipper to turn the top gear, or a pin in the wheel hub is out.

[built2last2]

it takes about half throttle to get it going the spur
spins the dog bones spins when it finaly catches
i do know the problm is in the slipper clutch housin
i guess. i just don know my vader enuf to figur out
what it is thats were i need you guys.

[vaderbxman]

Tighten the diff and the slipper. The slipper should tightened as far as it can go then back it off a half turn.

The diff should be as tight as you can get it, then back it off a 1/8th of a turn.

That ought to fix the problem.

[evaderst69]

I just got my lrp motor today and everything else i ordered.. My vader is fast now the lrp is crazy fast its a 9x2 geared at 19/88.. the only problem is i stil have my bald tires on and under hard acceleration they just spin and the truck fishtales the whole time.. im very happy with the motor i deff need better batteries now any recomendations would help.. oh yea here are some pics of my truck..

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/6482/13002wj2.th.jpg (http://img187.imageshack.us/my.php?image=13002wj2.jpg)

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/1290/13003lu7.th.jpg (http://img187.imageshack.us/my.php?image=13003lu7.jpg)

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/1960/13004na6.th.jpg (http://img187.imageshack.us/my.php?image=13004na6.jpg)

edit.. what size are the bearings in the rear carrier of the st i lost one some how

[vaderbxman]

The rear bearings are 5 x 10 mm.

As for battery suggestions, how much are you willing to spend, and are you planning on racing? For racing, I'd go with the best batteries money could but, such as the IB's. If you still want good batts, but don't wanna blow your wallet, try these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMND3&P=ML

I just got these packs myself, and they are MILES ahead of ni-cads. You aren't gonna be dissapointed of you invest in these packs.

If you want to just have fun, try these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUH3&P=ML

They don't have deans pre-wired, or have as much capacity as the duratrax battery, but there's two for the price of one.

Oh, and nice vader there man!!!! :cool:

[evst 360]

The duratrax batteries are good like Vader said, and so are the IB and GP cells. If you like to build your own packs, theres alot of stuff out there. Build-it-yourself packs are usually better than prebuild due to lower resistance, and usually matched cells. Although if you arent doing any competitive racing, this will do fine: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLZK6&P=ML

[evaderst69]

i dont really plan on racing but it could be possible.. i like the duratrax packs cuz they are pre wired with deans connectors i think i may just get those soon

[vaderbxman]

If you want to shell out 5 or 6 bucks more and wait a bit, duratrax has a 4200 pack.

[evaderst69]

yea i saw that.. im not really lookin to buy them soon though

[vaderbxman]

I'm more than happy with the 3800 packs I got here, so I can only guess the 4200's are even better.

[evaderst69]

about how long are your runtimes.. with my old packs i get about 5 good minutes then by about 7 they are dead i think my motor is hotter than the one you run remember im running a 9t and if i remeber corectly you are running a 12t

[built2last2]

Hey guys im lookin to put a cool lookin
car body on my evader does anybody know
if hpi makes a cool lookin car body to put on
my evader?

[vaderbxman]

I was running a 12T for a while, but I'm back to the 15T turn, which just died on me the other night, so I need to rebuild it or get a new one.

I haven't been able to run an entire pack through it yet, but I estimate run times to about 15-17 minutes. Maybe even more, but I need to get out there. It had plenty of punch left after about 10 minutes of driving, as in it still felt like it was fully peaked.

As to built2last: I saw on another forum a guy who stuck a 69' camaro body on his Evader, but I can't remember the name, or the exact webpage.

I'll post info if I find any.....

[built2last2]

K thank you

[evst 360]

about how long are your runtimes.. with my old packs i get about 5 good minutes then by about 7 they are dead i think my motor is hotter than the one you run remember im running a 9t and if i remeber corectly you are running a 12tSounds like its time to upgrade the batts!

[vaderbxman]

No kidding. I would get about 10 minuted with the 2400 Ni-cads I have, but these Ni-mh's I have on my comp desk are awesome!!!

[Sparrow338]

Ok i've got a question for you guys. I'm pretty sure that I already know the answer but here ya go anyways. I'm having trouble with my slipper clutch on my evader. Instead of the clutch slipping the large brass bushing, the one inside the spur gear, slips against the metal washer. This eventually ground the metal bushing down so much that even if you tightened up the clutch all the way, the clutch would still slip. I simply fliped the bushing over and then tried it again but even with the clutch loose it still grinds the brass bushing. I've tried losening the clutch but the only way it works correctly is to have it so lose that it has barely any acceleration.

So I was wondeirng if any of you have had this problem and if any of you know of a way of fixing it? Or maybe of a way of locking out the clutch completely? It'd be harder on the rest of the trans/universals, but thats better than a car that can't even hardly accelerate.

Thanks!

-Sparrow©

[Rear Admiral]

I find that the slipper pad makes a fine dust as it wears, and this sort of lubricates the brass bushing. When this happens, no amount of tightening it up will make it grip enough - I pull it apart and clean it every couple of months.

I de-glaze the slipper plates and pad with 800 sandpaper and clean all of the parts (pad included) with denatured alcohol to make sure that there is absolutely NO grease or oil on any of the parts (even skin oil). When I reassemble it, I make sure I only touch the parts on the edges and not on the surfaces that contact each other (I have even worn latex surgical gloves for this stage to keep everything clean during reassembly). As my clutch spring got older and a little weak, I added a 2mm plastic washer under the nut to let me tension it up properly again.

If it has been slipping a lot while tight, your brass bushing could be worn - you might need to replace it. At least try scuffing up the plates and pad, and cleaning all of the washers and the bushing thorougly.

I wouldn't suggest locking out the slipper - do that, and you can kiss your idler gear goodbye...

[Sparrow338]

Yea I kinda figured that locking out the clutch would be a bad thing. The brass bushing is definantly worn, i'll have to get another sometime. In the mean time flipping it over seemed to help a bit. I'll try cleaning the whole assembly and roughing up the friction surfaces. I'll have to take another look at how it works also, it's kinda strage what part and how quickly it was torn apart. I mean, all of the damage that was done to it took place in one battery run.

Also does your slipper clutch make a very loud grinding noise? ;) Seems to be a bit of a new thing with mine. I've had the car for several years now. Maybe I should just replace the entire assembly.

Thanks for the help.

-Sparrow©

[Update]: Ok I tried cleaning and de-glazing all the parts. It still slips, I think it just may be that the brass parts are worn out. With it tightened up all the way it still slips if I give the car any more than about 60% throttle. For now I'll just have to stop driving like my throttle is an on off switch. ;) Still seems like a strange design for a slipper clutch. When I first looked at it I thought that the two large plates and the pad in between are the wearing parts but actually the brass bushing in the middle of the spure gear seems to be the part that is wearing out on me. It seems like the tighter you make the clutch the more the brass bushing slips and the less the actually slipper part does. That's what you get for running 9T modified motor I guess.

[evaderst69]

for racing and bashing what do you guys prefer aluminum parts or the graphite parts i will be doing mostly bashing driving my truck hard and will race locally too.. i will also be running a mamba system not sure which one yet but prolly the 6900 so weight wont really matter but anyways aluminum or graphite which do you prefer or which is better suited for me

[Rear Admiral]

for racing and bashing what do you guys prefer aluminum parts or the graphite parts i will be doing mostly bashing driving my truck hard and will race locally too.. i will also be running a mamba system not sure which one yet but prolly the 6900 so weight wont really matter but anyways aluminum or graphite which do you prefer or which is better suited for me

I upgraded my Evader to graphite wishbones and shock towers, even though it's used for playing ("bashing" just sounds too violent.... :) ). The wishbones were great - after 6 months, I finally broke one after clipping the neighbour's letterbox at full throttle :rolleyes:. The shock towers were not so good - they don't like heavy roll-overs, which are a staple of bashing and jumping.

If you're not racing, the tiny weight difference isn't an issue, and neither is the extra stiffness, which comes at the cost of the parts being more brittle and likely to break. As I break my way through my graphite parts I'm replacing them with the original plastic ones again.

The best thing about the graphite parts is that they have "graphite" printed on them...;)

[Rear Admiral]

Yea I kinda figured that locking out the clutch would be a bad thing. The brass bushing is definantly worn, i'll have to get another sometime. In the mean time flipping it over seemed to help a bit. I'll try cleaning the whole assembly and roughing up the friction surfaces. I'll have to take another look at how it works also, it's kinda strage what part and how quickly it was torn apart. I mean, all of the damage that was done to it took place in one battery run.

Also does your slipper clutch make a very loud grinding noise? ;) Seems to be a bit of a new thing with mine. I've had the car for several years now. Maybe I should just replace the entire assembly.

Thanks for the help.

-Sparrow©

[Update]: Ok I tried cleaning and de-glazing all the parts. It still slips, I think it just may be that the brass parts are worn out. With it tightened up all the way it still slips if I give the car any more than about 60% throttle. For now I'll just have to stop driving like my throttle is an on off switch. ;) Still seems like a strange design for a slipper clutch. When I first looked at it I thought that the two large plates and the pad in between are the wearing parts but actually the brass bushing in the middle of the spure gear seems to be the part that is wearing out on me. It seems like the tighter you make the clutch the more the brass bushing slips and the less the actually slipper part does. That's what you get for running 9T modified motor I guess.



Are you sure the problem is the slipper? Grinding noises are more likely to come from the trans, and a 9T motor is more than powerful enough to strip an idler gear.

The only times I've had trouble with the brass bushing slipping before the pad is if the bushing is greasy or dusty, but it sounds like you've already covered this. If the bushing was slipping, the high revs of the 9T could wear it out in no time.

Check that the tensioning nut still isn't at the end of the thread - if you suspect it is, a shim of a few mm will let you squeeze a bit more out of it. Apart from that, I'd strip the trans and clutch, clean and carefully inspect everything (esp. gear teeth and how they mesh), replace anything suspect (e.g. the brass bushing, and perhaps a new pad, just to be sure), and rebuild it with a good quality grease.

Slippers can be frustrating things to set up. This page describes some similar problems to yours (even though it's for the BX, but they have the same trans/slipper combo) under "Adjusting the slipper clutch";

http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/

Good luck.

[Sparrow338]

Thanks! I'll check that stuff out and get back to you if I find out what was wrong with it.

[Sparrow338]

Ok I opened up the trans and inspected all the gears and such. Every thing was fine, lots of grease and non of the teeth on the gears looked to have any damage or wearing. I also opened up the diff, haven't done that for a long time, and found that the two smaller thrust washers were both broken in half. That was strange. So I rebuilt the diff and put it all back together. As for the clutch I replaced the stock slipper plates and the blue slipper bad, along with more of the smaller washers so that the lock nut wouldn't stop at the end of the threads. So after all that it still slips but less and seems to be working better. However, I think there is something really wrong with my diff because I realized that it can slip if both rear wheels are locked. Neither wheel turns and the clutch is not slipping. Now that I think about it I think that this is what was making that grinding noise and that would make sense because it only would grind under a drift/slide situation when both back wheels are able to break free. To fix this I just tightened up the diff. I know that is just a band-aid fix but I don't have all the parts for a complete rebuild at the moment.

As for the slipper clutch it seems to be working a lot better with the stock parts than with the hop-up lightened clutch plates.

Thanks for all the help!

-Sparrow©


On a totally unrelated note: Here's an idea I came up with to protect the outdrives of the diff. from direct contact with dirt/mud or whatever. I used two pieces of shrink tubing that extend about a half a inch over the drive shafts. Seems to help a lot with keep dirt out of the outdrives on the diff. Here's a picture.
http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/8928/img1325ce9.jpg
Note: That car hasn't been run yet, it's waiting for the sand dunes of Pismo. ;)
Oh yea, that isn't the evader that is having the above problems.

[Rear Admiral]

Hmmm - if the diff is slipping, it will do it whether turning or in a straight line, but if you've broken some diff balls and the diff was tight enough, it would only grind when the car is turning. I've heard of slipping diffs causing flat spots in diff balls, then when the diff is tightened up and no longer slips the balls ratchet around and won't roll smoothly when the car is turning. Note that this isn't a problem in a straight line, because the balls aren't turning then. Did you split the diff and look at the balls? Might be worth try.

I've tried a couple of different ways of protecting the outdrives - most of them seem to just trap more dirt in and make the od's wear faster. Is the tube fully shrunken? If you could get some that fit over the od but shrank down smaller around the dogbone it might work even better. Keep an eye on them in the dunes - I'm keen to hear how they go.

The truck looks wild with those paddle tires! You should have a blast! Give it a roost for me....

[vaderbxman]

My 6900 mamba shipped from tower today. Should be here by next week. Awesomeness!!

[Sparrow338]

Is the tube fully shrunken?
Well sorta. The part of the shrink tubing that actually covers the od's is shrunk as tight as I could make it. the part that isn't on the od's isn't shruk all the way. I thought about shrinking it but it seemed to restrict the drive shafts a lot since this perticular tubing is very stiff. I found some over sized shock boots for the XTM Mammoth, I think, that look like they would almost be a perfect fit over the od's and clover almost the entire drive shaft. I was thinking of them just to protect against a driect contact with sand or what ever, I know stuff will probably still get in there. I'll let you know how they work and if the shock boots work also.

Oh yea, what I meant when the diff. is slipping is that you can hold both back tires and have the slipper clutch locked out and the motor can still turn the trans without the wheels turning.

[built2last2]

This is sortta off topic but not. Has anyone
did the t4 slipper conversion? For those of
you that have im gettin ready to order
the t4 slipper pads and the kimbrough gears
but i want to know will this setup better than
the stock evader slipper set up? Because im
having alot of problems with the stock slipper
it sucks.

[evaderst69]

My 6900 mamba shipped from tower today. Should be here by next week. Awesomeness!!

i wanna hear results as soon as you drive it.. and i wanna see how those duratrax batteries do with the mamba

[vaderbxman]

I got it today, and I can say is this thing is AWESOME!! I can't drive it just yet because it's wet outside, but I'll share as soon as I do. The packaging for this thing was sweet too. Like a sniper's firld kit with the expensive stuff stuck in foam and padded.

I do, however, have a battery peaked so when the grass dries out enough....

[evst 360]

drive it around the house until its dry outside. The hall makes a great straightaway :D

[vaderbxman]

XD

Especially when the hall's just 8 feet long!!

But I think the grass is dry enough now.....

[Rear Admiral]

Oh yea, what I meant when the diff. is slipping is that you can hold both back tires and have the slipper clutch locked out and the motor can still turn the trans without the wheels turning.

This is exactly the kind of slipping I was talking about - the outdrives don't move, but the diff gear spins, so the diff balls grind against the diff plates rather that driving them like they would if they were tighter. Problem is, if it slips like this long enough, the balls will get deformed and won't do their job properly of rolling between the plates when the car is turning. A quick check for this is to hold both back wheels off of the ground and turn one - the other wheel should turn (in the opposite direction) and it should feel smooth. If it feels ratchety or rough, it'd pay you to check your diff balls (Duratrax sell a harder, carbide diff ball set: the one from the Associated B4 also works).

[vaderbxman]

i drove the mamba system last night....

WOW!!!! Un-godly amounts of power comes to mind when playing with this. I think this is the best 200 dollars I've ever spent! Worth every penny, plus the grin on my face after burying the trigger the first time was priceless! :D

[evaderst69]

thats what i wanna hear.. also where you using the duratrax 3800 you had if so how did they handle the mamba

[vaderbxman]

I was using the 3800 duratrax batteries, and they handled it great! When I pulled the car inside, the batteries were the coolest out of the 3 main electrical bits (ESC, motor, batts) so I take that as a good sign. I don't know how long I can run one of those packs, but I'm gonna find out after I help my dad with his Turmoil.

[evaderst69]

well my lrp motor **** the bed the other day i tried replacing the brushes but that didnt work so i ordered a trinity green machine 3 pro from tower.. anyone used this motor in their evader how did you like it or how did you gear it using your stock 88t spur.. im only looking to get a few months out of it til like christmas when ill prolly just get a mamba max system

[Sparrow338]

Just a question for all of you... How long does your diff. last before you have to do a rebuild? I don't get much use out of mine before it feels like someone poured sand in it.

BTW: That whole problem I thought I was having with the slipper wasn't actually the slipper. It was the diff. the entire time. The two smaller thrust washers (?) were both broken in half and the larger ones were on their way. I've also been able to train my throttle finger so I don't keep burning out my diffs.

[vaderbxman]

Sparrow338: My diff has lasted me from about may to present. I've been through 2 diffs, but haven't rebuilt any of them because i have spares. With my Mamba, however, I suspect my diff shall die rather soon.

evaderst69: I'm not entirely suer how to gear that motor. If you have the stock pinion that came with the Evader, try using that to begin with, and see if the motor runs hot, or if you aren't going very fast.

I think that motor will last you until Christmas. Beware, however, that a Mamba is a HUGE step-up in terms of speed, and will make your car handle differently, and not just because of all that new found speed. If you want recomendations as to which motor to get, I'll be happy to help!

[evaderst69]

i was thinkin about gettin the 6900 even before you got it.. how long are your runtimes with the dtx batteries

[elecracr]

I cant speak for the mamba system but my brushless seemed to have better runtimes than my 13turn modified motors.

[Rear Admiral]

Just a question for all of you... How long does your diff. last before you have to do a rebuild? I don't get much use out of mine before it feels like someone poured sand in it.

BTW: That whole problem I thought I was having with the slipper wasn't actually the slipper. It was the diff. the entire time. The two smaller thrust washers (?) were both broken in half and the larger ones were on their way. I've also been able to train my throttle finger so I don't keep burning out my diffs.


Glad you've found the problem. I cut a couple of little foam plugs that are about 2-3mm thick that I stuff in the outdrives before I put the dogbones in. They help to keep the dust and sand out of the thrust assembly and (hopefully) keep the wear down.

I've run my current diff for about 18 months without problem; just give it a thorough service and regrease (with a high quality grease) every few months. Carbide balls are harder and should help extend this service time.

As for your throttle finger, if you get your slipper set up properly, you should be able to go nuts on the throttle without worrying about your diff. It can be a little tricky, but once you get the hang of setting it up it's easy. It's the simplest way to protect not only your diff but your motor as well.

[vaderbxman]

i was thinkin about gettin the 6900 even before you got it.. how long are your runtimes with the dtx batteries

I still don't know. I've either been racing around the backyard or not long enough at the track to tell. I will say that these batteries have alot of punch left in them after 4 days of sitting in my car not run. I'll pass info along as i get it though. As for now, moise pictues!
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/8809/p9020057kn5.jpg
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/6642/p9020070xq9.jpg

[Rear Admiral]

Front tyres look great - what are they? And your shock protectors, are they water balloons?

The car looks sharp. A couple of nice fat yellow GT stripes across the roof and bonnet would set it off nicely (I'd be pestering my local signmaker for some sticky vinyl offcuts...)

I'm keen to hear what you're run times are like - I'm running a 13T at the mo and have thought about brushless, but was worried that I'd get no run time out of my 3300 batteries.

[vaderbxman]

So far with the batteries I have, I'm getting good run times. I have yet to drain a whole battery, but I've come close.

I used those balloons that make noise when you let the air out. They are a perfect diameter. I run Blade 2.2 tires from Pro-Line. My edges were worn out from alot of running, so I swithced over to the blades. They have awesome traction in dry, dusty conditions, but not so great on wet tracks.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMW78&P=7

[vaderbxman]

I went back to the track again today. I got ALOT of wheel time in, but didn't drain a battery. I drove for about 2 gas tanks with my dad's turmoil (about 9 minutes) of driving as fast as the track would let me. I had a couple bits where the car sat still for up to 5 minutes while I helped my dad look for a missing part, and trying to get a temperature reading from my ESC and motor.

I didn't drain it because my spur gear is about to self-detonate. I need to find some longer screws so I can use the metal supr gear I bought so long ago.

My ESC was about 150 and my motor was about 140 at it's hottest I temped it at.

[built2last2]

Can anyone show me or tell me how to
doudle lock my slipper nut so it wont self
tighten itself anymore its about to cause
me another diff?

[vaderbxman]

Mine has a problem with loosening itself. I guess you cold try inverting the slipper nut.

[built2last2]

Mine has a problem with loosening itself. I guess you cold try inverting the slipper nut.
how do i do that explain

[built2last2]

Mine has a problem with loosening itself. I guess you cold try inverting the slipper nut.
by the way i converted my slipper setup
to the t4

[built2last2]

can anyone help me? every time i
hit the throttle the diff honks at me
this is a just rebuilt diff also my slipper
is set right. its also brushless

[vaderbxman]

On the knut, there's a side that's nearly perfectly hexagonal shapped, and a side that's circular in shape and has a nylon insert. Thread the nylon insert side on first, and tighten.

Just a thought.

[savagekid94]

i was thinking about an evader for a basher but wasn't sure about if they jumped well and were as durable as a xxx-t

[INbob]

hi i just bought an evader st and im new to the rc hobby does anyone have any suggestions on up grades like whats a good motor or transmission? I also was wondering about motor winds why is it that less winds equal better i think? whats a good battery to get? I bought a duratrax intelepeak charger, so i hope thats a good one. I was also wondering about any clubs or groups that i could join so i could race my truck. any feedback would be appreciated.

[vaderbxman]

Welcome aboard!

Three things are gonna come out quickly to require upgrading, and that's the rear tires, the servo, and the motor.

- The rear tires are way too soft of a compound and wear fast. A suitable replacement, depending on where you race, are the Bow-ties offered by Pro-line: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDX79&P=7
These last a long time and provide decent grip. You may need to fine tune your tire selection to your track, but the bow-ties are a good place to start.

- Next off is the servo. The stocker consists of plastic gears and will break very soon, reguardless of how you drive. An easy way to cure this problem is investing in a metal-geared servo, such as the Futaba S3305: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=ML
It seems a little expensive at first, but I've been beating the crap out of my servo (same one) for 10 months with no problems at all.

- Last, is the motor. I can't believe this motor is still put into the Evader, but at least the ESC can handle down to 20 turns (I'll explain that a bit later). A good 27T motor is the co27 from Trinity. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLXT7&P=ML


Now to explain a "turn." A turn is how many times a copper wire is wound around an armature, or the rod coming out of the end of the motor. Generally, the lower the turn count, the faster the motor. However, the lower you go on turn count, the more demand will be placed on your drivetrain, batteries, connectors, ESC, and such. An ESC should say what number of turns it can safely handle. If you go lower than that number, you are guranteed to blow-up your ESC, or at least put it under alot of stress. The 20T photon motor has acceptable speed, but the Co27 is faster.

I hope this all helps and doesn't seem too daunting. And most important of all, just have fun! :D

[INbob]

thanks i have noticed the tire treads are gone on the tires that came with my evader. i purchesed a runner lrp esc and have some nice futaba metal gear servos. probably gonna get a stock trinity motor and some motor matinece stuff next.

[savagekid94]

i would connsider getting a new motor instead you can get a cheap 20 turn it will probably be cheaper and won't have to be replaced for a while

[savagekid94]

a good upgrade would probably be an esc i would get one that could handle lower than 15 turns i have a duratrax 12t and have had no problems teh stock wires are just long enough to hard wire to motor a good soldering iron that has at least 40watts is another good rc thing to have hex drivers are antoher good thing to have all of these don't need to be purchased at once but they wiil be good to have in the future i would buy them as i need them i love the integy hex drivers very reasonobly priced and have replacable tips i would get a battery with at least 300mah. mah is a battery capacity the bigger the number the more run time you will have

[vaderbxman]

Have you guys seen the new Evader EXT?
http://duratrax.com/cars/dtxd29-evader-ext/index.html

More than likely, I'm not gonna buy it, but I will buy the gear differential that comes with it for added durability against the brushless system I have in mine.

[Wizardman_1]

Gear diff going for like $10 on tower hobbies, you think they changed any of the gearing in the transmission? I doubt duratrax did but just wondering if anybody knows for sure.

[vaderbxman]

I looked at the parts diagram for the Evader, and judging by the shapes of things and the sizes of bushings, the EXT transmission is the same shape as the original Evader. The difference being that the EXT has bushings and not bearings.

[wvrednek]

ok on the subject of the gear diff, if the gear diff fits into the electric evader, is the electric evader diff different than the nitro evader (basically will the gear diff fit into the nitro evader?) i know its only $10 but what it might cost to adapt it may be expensive...:)

[vaderbxman]

I bought the gear diff and the case to the EXT, but I need new rear axles from the EXT as well as new dogbones. The stock driveshafts just don't fit into the output shafts of the new diff.

[wvrednek]

are the output shafts too small for the stock axiles?

[vaderbxman]

Correct. I can't get them to fit. That sucks, because I have a good set of CVD'that I can't use because of the gear diff. But, with the gear diff I will never have to worry about rebuilding the diff or watching diff ball wear or anything.

[TeamMishap]

I may have to go back to a brushed system on my Evader.

My diff was toast! The balls melted into the diff gear. The metal races got so hot they melted the plastic gear. The thrust washers in the axle output were broken into pieces.

Wish they'd make some metal gears for the transmission.

[evst 360]

they do. Duratrax makes an alu idler gear, but for the diff gears associated b2 diff gears fit. The stock plastic b2 gear is better than the stock dtx evader gear, and associated made an aluminum b2 diff gear at one point (they are hard to find now, but if you can find one go for it). Theres a guy on ebay who was selling b2/evader diff gears, "custom" made with "solid aerospace titanium alloy". I almost picked one up, but I havent got around to it, and they dont seem to have them every time I check ebay. I just searched ebay, and I couldnt find the guy. HG something or other.

EDIT: Vader, remember this thread? http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=227679 I never got around to picking it up. oops.

[Larry Sockwell]

First of all, Hey to everybody and Merry Christmas too you all.

I just bought an Evader EXT, looked at it and decided that I needed a bearing kit, spare shocks (aluminum ST shocks with the threaded collars), some new tires (Pro Line DirtHawgs) and new wheels for the cool factor. Titanium turnbuckles and a few other bits from DTX's hop up list will be added as well.

My questions concern wheels.

I know that Losi wheels are a direct bolt on but, always a but, I like the RPM Revolver wheels. No Losi application there. The drive axles on the EXT are listed as 5mm while the Revolver 3/16 wheel centers are 4.76mm. I can chuck these into the drill press, center them and poke a 5mm bit through to fix that. No problem with the rear unless the drive pins won't fit. Does anybody know if the drive pins for Losi and Associated trucks are the same size?

The Revolver front wheels, on Tower Hobbies, are listed as having a 0.25" hole and the Evader has 3/16", or 0.1875" front axles. I have found no bearings of those dimensions anywhere, not even Boca Bearings has them. I suppose I could chuck the fronts into the press and drill the holes to 3/8" to fit a standard front wheel bearing but, that seems like a lot to remove. I'm afraid of weakening the the hub of the wheel. Could the dimension of the center hole be a mistake on Towers' website?

I've read that Associated wheels also have a different offset than Losi wheels, will this be a problem with fitment or something that can be solved with tuning?

This is just a backyard basher so I'm not overly concerned with perfect handling, I just want to have fun with it and tinker, I'm a tinkerer.

Thanks in advance to anybody that can help me with my concerns.



Larry

[Larry Sockwell]

Ok looks like the wheel change will be on hold for a minute.

I took the truck out for some fun in the dirt today and broke a rear axle, snapped clean where the drive pin for the wheel goes through. I have about 10 minutes of fun time and I'm already making repairs. :mad:

It looks like the axles are made of powdered metal. The hardening didn't make it all the way through so it was easy to identify. The hardening was only about 0.030 in from the surface. Not a good thing at the thinnest point of what is one of the most stressed parts on the truck.

I'm going to buy a couple more from Duratrax and see if I can get a buddy to carve some out of a tougher alloy at the machine shop.

It's a good thing that I like tinkering.



Larry

[elecracr]

Sounds like you got a dud set. I was running brushless in my bx and had only one cvd go out in quite a while of running. Good luck.

[Wizardman_1]

Looks like the EXT has different cvd/axles than the other evaders because of the gear diff. They might've made them weaker this time around.

[elecracr]

Ah.... Good catch.... I havent really looked into the ext. But it does look like some of the parts are built more for the budget minded basher. Look into the CVD axles that come on the evader pros. Those axles seem to take a fair amount of abuse.

[Larry Sockwell]

Good idea but they won't fit. The ball ends of the u-joint drives from the ST are 7.9mm and the dogbones for the EXT are 6mm. The differential outdrives don't interchange either. I'd have to change the entire transmission.

I have a few chunks of 300M material left over from another unrelated project. I'll have to call in a favor, and fork over a few dollars, to get them whittled into axles if it comes to that.

The bad part about this is it landed in all four from a 12-14" jump in sand. I'm going to buy another set of Duratrax axles, one for the truck and one to copy. I really hope this was just a bad part and not something that will be a problem for kids getting their first taste of RC fun.


On a more positive note, I did a little tuning before the axle broke and.....

The ST shocks with the stock White springs felt a LOT better over bumpy terrain. It didn't track very well at full throttle so I layed the shocks over as far as possible. Lower mounts all the way out and upper mounts in the top innermost point. I did this on both ends and set the control arms dead level.

What a difference! This thing was arrow straight and rock steady at full steam over a gravel driveway. I changed the pinion to a 16T and the spur to a 90T, installed a Venom 17 turn mod motor and man did it fly, until the axle broke. I won't know if it's too soft for sizable jumps until I get the axle issue fixed but, I like going fast and doing donuts better anyway.

The speed control works just fine with stock motor but it's not so hot with a modified. Throttle control is twitchy at best and it's a chore to get a smooth line through a turn at speed. I bought an Associated/LRP A.I. Automatic Pro Reverse esc and hope to give a full report after I get a new axle.

Anywho, ya'll have a good week. I'll chime in with an update as soon as I get this thing hopping again.



Larry

[Wizardman_1]

You wouldn't have to change the entire transmission to run the older CVD's you would just have to buy the ball diff and obviously the other driveshaft/axles.

If you really want to you could just get the ball diff and lock it up. Your turning will a bit more difficult but you won't have to deal with tuning the diff. I did it on my brushless bx, handling didn't really suffer from it at all.

Oh and as for the shock tuning, the more layed over the better the car will be over bumps and worse on high jumps. Vice-versa stand the shocks up and youll do better on high jumps. It should tell you some brief tuning tips in the manual although i'm not sure with the EXT. You'll get the hang of it, off-road tuning isnt too hard.

[Larry Sockwell]

Are you sure? I looked up the part numbers for the transmission cases on each truck and, even though they look he same from the outside, they have different part numbers.

BTW, who has the quickest turnaround on parts orders? I don't have a local hobby shop so everything I get is online. I placed an order with RC Planet on the 6th and I just got an email telling me that my stuff was shipped on the 11th. I suppose the fact that I paid for 2nd day air shipping didn't click the go fast button in somebodys head. :huh:



Larry

[Wizardman_1]

Yeah if you read a few posts back you can see vaderbxman looked at the diagrams and the bearing/bushing sizes and put the EXT diff into his regular evader.

Dang your order took forever to ship, lol. I always use towerhobbies (.com) they have really good prices, lots of offers and discounts all the time, and they are quick.

[suthernboy08]

Hello all of my fellow evader st owners. I wanna
know where can i buy a better set of rear ext axles?
I currently have a ext tranny with the fixxins on the
vader pro st platform. But i keep breakin the rear axles.
Are there any aftermarket mfgs that make stronger ones. Im in dying need Ive been through about eight
pairs so far. All advice welcomed thankyou.

[diggernz]

Hello all of my fellow evader st owners. I wanna
know where can i buy a better set of rear ext axles?
I currently have a ext tranny with the fixxins on the
vader pro st platform. But i keep breakin the rear axles.
Are there any aftermarket mfgs that make stronger ones. Im in dying need Ive been through about eight
pairs so far. All advice welcomed thankyou.
holy ****. what motor are you running and how they breaking?

[suthernboy08]

holy ****. what motor are you running and how they breaking?
Im curently running 5914kv feiago brushless motor.
Well a few times it has been my fault it kinda got
sideways with me i hit a curb trying to bring it back.
Last night i switched out spurs took it up the block then
back down not even goosing the throttle yet as a was
getin ready to my rear wheel popped off.

[wvrednek]

would loosening up the slipper help any?

[suthernboy08]

would loosening up the slipper help any?
yes i have the slipper set just right. Also i dont
have the same slipper (Duatrax) setup anymore.

[suthernboy08]

but she sure is pretty i just cant
keep her back wheels on.

[0RESET0]

I just wanted to introduce my self as a new Evader owner. I bought a blue EXT from Towerhobbies. Being that half of my yard is under watter, I have not been able to take it out yet. I have read all ten pages of this thread and a few from v4.0. I am not looking to hop it up yet, I figured I would see what breaks first and wait to see if I want more power.

I have noticed that my car has the same high pitched whine that I have read about in here. I recognise this sound as being the same as when I put very little trigger into a cordless drill. I can't remember if this sound is normal or not but I figure you guys will let me know if there is something wrong.

[0RESET0]

OK, as you can tell from the previous post, I just got my Evader EXT. While I was running up and down the road in front of my house, I took a wrong turn and ended up in the ditch. This would have been fine except for the two feet of ice water. Long story short, my truck is no longer working.

I took the truck out of the water as fast as I could but it was completely submerged. I took everything apart and dried it all off. I did not open the SC or the receiver. What do I need to do before I can plug the battery back in and run my truck?

Thanks

I opened the receiver and SC today and dried them as best i could. They appeared fine. I took a chance and plugged a battery in. The lights on the sc did not come on but the steering survo did respond to the radio. I let it set there like that for a few seconds and the servo moved by it's self a few times and stopped responding to the radio. The SC never came on so I could not test the motor.

[0RESET0]

I got my truck working again. I tore the electronics all the way down and put the circuit boards in front of a space heater for a while. When I tested the ESC by it's self, the green light blinked showing that it was doing it's setup. I plugged every thing in without putting it back together and tested it again. Everything worked so I put everything back together. All is good now and most of the ditches are dried up so I won't have to worry about water for a while.

Next question, would I be less of a man if I wanted to use a stick radio instead of the pistol radio that came with this truck?

[Tamiya4ever]

No you would not. Just go with what you feel comftorable with. I am thinking of using a stick radio with my next RC purchase. I have seen photos of pro racers using stick radios.

[uDi_MP75]

Thought I'd drop in here and say hi,

I've got an evader ST and evader ST pro on the way, bought them for about $110 each off ebay. The pro was a bit of a surprise, didn't expect to win it, but should be fun to play around with nonetheless.

Are these things competitive with the XXX/RC10's in terms of weight and handling? Build/parts quality? I'm just a basher really, but curious anyway.

The normal ST should turn up tomorrow, and the pro in a couple weeks. I'm excited! :)

[JWPadelford]

Hi. Just bought a Evader EXT a couple of days ago and don't really know much about these things..but anyways.. have one question. are there any good alternatives to the springs on the dog bones? i hit a bad bump today and the right side dog bone flew out....and i really don't want to have to buy little springs each time one of these comes out.

[0RESET0]

I am thinking about getting a Sidewinder brushless system for my EXT. I plan to run a 4600Kv motor on 6 or 12 cells NiMH. I would like to hear opinions and suggestions about this system in this application.

Other than Dean's ultimate battery connectors and 35w oil in the shocks, this truck is stock. I plan to get a pinion gear set at the same time I get the BL system. I will not be changing the Spur gear size until I am comfortable with the speed and new handling characteristics.

[uDi_MP75]

Well my two trucks turned up.

I'm interested in building one good car out of the best bits and maybe keeping the second for spares... Can someone advise on which graphite parts to run and which not to run for bashing? Sometimes I clip trees, flip, cartwheel, etc... the plastic truck has held up to all of it so far. I've got a full graphite truck and a full plastic truck to build one nice one with.

Also I have a few more questions (I'm new to the electric world).
What does the KV value on a brushless motor mean, how does that compare to turn values on brushed motors? I've been eying off the castle creations sidewinder setup (4600KV motor) - does anyone know if this is any good? Also a n00b question - any idea how much runtime I'd get with that setup using a 3000mah nimh pack? I'm not ready for lipoly (cost or hassle). I'll buy higher capacity nimh if I have to though.

Last thing - what recievers are compatible and incompatible with BEC? I have a 3PK HRS reciever that I'm too scared to plug my ESC into because I'm afraid it'll get fried or something. Will it be okay?

Thanks in advance, hope someone can help.

[pasan]

Hi all, I have an Evader EXT which I've fitted with the VXL system from my FLM Rusty. The thing is just ridiculously fast when compared to the Co27 Trinity it was running previously. MY problem is that I that I keep on messing up the clutch way too easily, i.e. the clutch ring causes the plates to eventually bind and lock up. Is there a heavier duty clutch this can be replaced with, or am I stuck with this? I really like running the VXL on this thing, just makes me smile so much when i do long sweeping drifts in the dirt.

[uDi_MP75]

Seems like this thread is getting more questions than answers. Where have the experts gone? :(

I have another question if anyone knows - what's a good seal kit to rebuild my stock evader ST pro shocks with? I don't want to use duratrax parts, both my trucks have leaky shocks. Can I use parts from associated or losi, if so which ones? All four of my shocks leak and I'd like to rebuild them nicely if I can.

This is my truck by the way :):
http://i28.tinypic.com/t8xfk8.jpg

http://i25.tinypic.com/2v0edm0.jpg

Mostly stock evst pro w/ chameleon 2 pro.

[vaderbxman]

Well, I haven't been here in ages, so I'll try to help some. Assuming your questions haven't been answered.

uDi- My shocks sucked as well until I bought a set of Team Losi xxx-t shocks. They're almost a perfect fit (the front shocks are just a touch shorter than the evader shocks, but it works)

pasan- I usually run mine as tight as I can get it, then back it off no more than a quarter turn. To keep the nut from backing off of the threads, I use two nuts to secure my slipper clutch setting.

I'll try to check back here more often.

[pasan]

Hi there. I've got an evader EXT running my old rustler vxl setup including 3S lipo. Will upgrading to the aluminium idler make a difference for me?

[vaderbxman]

Personally, I haven't done that yet because my plastic idler gear has held up for more than a year and a half. Granted I haven't driven the stupid thing since Christmas, but I have run a mamba max 6900 in it with no problems.

I do know some people on another forum who run the aluminum idler gear and I never hear anything go wrong with theirs.

[pasan]

Personally, I haven't done that yet because my plastic idler gear has held up for more than a year and a half. Granted I haven't driven the stupid thing since Christmas, but I have run a mamba max 6900 in it with no problems.

I do know some people on another forum who run the aluminum idler gear and I never hear anything go wrong with theirs.

Oh well I'm assuming that's either 6,7 cell or 2S right? Still torque than what goes into the VXL with 3S.

[Delhome]

I have what used to be a Evader ext... Not anymore though..... Its a cross breed between an Evader ext and st....

[vaderbxman]

Yeah, I would run 6-cecll 3800 mHa DTX batteries. I like 'em. I'd like just a touch more run time out of them, but I can't complain.

[steven21]

I want to buy the aluminum rear control arms in blue but can't find them. Know any website or place I can find them.