New to Associated

[Disasterman2000]

I have recently purchased a Team T3, I had no problems assembling it but since I've had it running I have gone through two servos and one set of CVD pins. If you have any suggestions on this they would be helpful.
Also, I currently am running a P2K Pro motor and an IPC Digital Sport ESC, I have a 18 tooth pinion and a 87 tooth spur gear, tell me what you think about this setup and wether or not I should change it any

.P.s. I run on a tight track with only one straight, and on a track with many hairpins but three straights. Thanks for the Help.
:o :confused:

[ATeam]

The servo saver in the T3 is a good one, but it does take a little fine tunning. Here is what I did and it solved my problems. Take some very fine sand paper, like 1000 grit. Sand both surfaces of the servo saver, the "V's", to where the are as smooth as a baby's butt. Then put just a tiny ammount of black grease on them, just enough to say you put some on there. It doesn't take much and if you put very much it will collect dust. Now after every race weekend I would take it apart and do simple maintence, make sure it's clean and adjusted properly.

Another thing that will help solve this problem is a metal gear servo. But with the stock servo saver fitted and adjusted properly it should eliminate your problems. Not hitting stuff will help to. ;)

ATeam

[rc10t3racer]

Chris,

For the CVD pin problem, you can use shrink tube to seal the pin in. I've done this and never lost a pin. Put the shrink tube around the entire "curved" part, not just the pin. I've also heard someone makes a boot that will right over it.

As for the Servo problem, you can read some threads on the board about lubing the servo saver, keeping it loose, or going with a Hitec metal gear servo.

I use a 945 and have no problems with. Because of the gears, I use a very tight servo setting. It will depend on the hazards of your track though.

18/87 is very low for a P2K, but if your track is really tight it should be fine. Most people run 20/87 and some even run up to 23/87 with a P2K, but it all depends on your track.

My track changes monthly so I vary between 19/87 and 21/87 (depending on conditions), I typically run 20/87.

Hope this helps

[XXXER]

To keep the CVD pins from coming out, use Heat Shrink tubing, and put it over them, it will keep them from coming out. Du-Bro makes some good stuff, check them out.

[Disasterman2000]

Thanks for the help on the servo saver issue, I have been in the process of saving for a metal gear servo since I bought my truck, but I still don't have enough cash.

I will probably get a 20 tooth pinion gear when I go to the track on monday, and I was wondering if it mattered what brand of gear that you bought such as Associated, Losi, RPM, etc. Thanks for the help.
:D

[ATeam]

The brand shouldn't matter much. Robinson gears are among the best because they mesh well and are quite. Just make sure you get the right pitch. Associated's run a 48 pitch, somone correct me if I'm wrong.

Until you have the cash for that metal gear servo, run your servo saver a little on the loose side. I'd hate for you to bust another servo and be out of commision until you could replace it. I've been there and it stinks, BIG TIME!

Also if time permits practice on your track at about one half or three quarters speed. This will help you learn the layout of the track and improve your driving skills.

ATeam

[TUCRACEMAN]

It doesn’t really matter what kind of gears you buy. I chose to use Robinson Racing Products because it is always there. However, I once bought a Losi pinion and had problems with it rubbing against the gear cover because it’s a little fatter than normal.
-Dave

“I slipped on a crab…Who put that crab there?”

[Obi112]

Saving for a metal-geared servo? If you want one to hold you over until you can afford a high-end Airtronics, look at Cirrus. I have the CS-60MG. Metal gears, dual ball bearings. Approx. specs (I forget the exact specs): 80 oz/in of torque; .16 sec/60 deg. The price is a tick over $20. It doesn't have the speed or torque or a $100 servo, but it has comparable durability for $80 less.

[racerman333]

for the servo try this link

https://sslserver.com/stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=HTS35645

Its a hitec digital metal gear servo for $55 and it has 133 oz torque. Thats a great deal. I always wanted a digital servo and that the next servo i'll buy.

Also always buy 48 pitch. 64 and 32 are used in on-road i think.

Also if you keep losing your pins what you can do is go to the hardware store and show the guy the pin. At the place i went to i bought a pin that is the exact same diameter except it is 2 feet long. all you have to do is cut it to the right length. Not sure what it is made of but it is solid and it only cost 60 cents for about 2 feet.

[RC10DS99]

I had the same problem with my CVD's...there is some company that sells CVD "Boots" which keep the pins in.

[combones]

An inherent problem with the T/B3 is that dang servo "saver". AE told me basically what ateam said, but also suggested trimming the tips of the V's to aid in release under stress. Do like obi said and get the cirrus 60-mgbb(metal gear, ball beaing) servo for $80 less. Try www.hobbypeople.net. (http://www.hobbypeople.net.) I bought one but it wouldn't fit in my b3( too tall), but it should fit in the t3. Airtronics servo fit in minezzzz. :D

[racerman333]

racers edge make the cvd boots. http://www.racers-edge.com/

[Obi112]

Don't waste your time ordering CVD boots. Just go to your local Radio Shack and pick up a pack of heat shrink tubing. They have an assorted pack that includes the perfect size for CVDs. The just slip it over the part with the pin, and use a hairdryer until it shrinks tightly around the joint. DONE!

As combones said, the CS-60MG is a tight fit in a B3. I'm not sure if the servo spot in the T3 is bigger, but it shouldn't matter. Here's the problems I encountered in my B3, and how I fixed them:

1. When you first try to put it into it's spot, you'll think it's too wide. No big deal, just push and it'll squeeze in there.
2. The servo is a bit too tall. Again, no big deal. Grab a file and file down a little bit of the battery hold-down screw.
3. There was slight contact between the servo saver and the front of the servo. Grab the file and remove some material from the servo saver from where it was hitting. Since your removing only a tiny bit from the end, it doesn't weaken anything.

Oh, by the way, the CS-60MG is $21.99 from Hobby People.

[racerman333]

the hitec digital one i mentioned before is not mod and cheap for what you get.

[Obi112]

Combones: Yep, that's what I meant. I just forgot to put the word "spot" in there. However, the way you worded it was much clearer.

I was also looking for a no-mod fit, but I didn't mind, because it's such a nice servo at such a nice price (and I love the see-through case). It's really not that hard, because your only removing a tiny amount of material.

[combones]

Maybe I'll try one with my other B3. http://www.plauder-smilies.com/lach.gif

[combones]

I wanted a no-mod fit for mine :rolleyes: .
Obi, I think you meant to say file down the CHASSIS where the battery hold down screw is inserted. The T3 does have a slightly "taller" servo mount area so the cirrus would go right in(I think)? Anybody know? http://www.plauder-smilies.com/smokin.gif