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View Full Version : Another pullstart, or just get the starter box?


XXWoodmanXX
02-24-2007, 02:59 PM
Hello, fellow RCZ members.

I need your help in deciding here. I just broke the rip-cord on my Ofna buggy (damn, and I really wanted to run it today, too) Anywho,......would it be a wise investmend, as a basher, to just get the starter box, instead of getting another pull-starter for my Ofna Force 25 motor? If I'm willing to spend $50-60 on one, should I just get it, instead of investing in another $20 pull-starter?

This may be a ridiculous question, seeing how my dilemma may have already answered my question for me. I just wanted to know if there's any drawbacks to getting the Ofna bump-starter, other than having to take it with me wherever I wish to run my buggy. Thanks!

vaderbxman
02-24-2007, 03:44 PM
My dad didn't break his pullstarter, but he came really close before he got a starter box of his own. The starter box really isn't all that heavy to log around, and most only require a couple stick packs, which you can get a few cheap 1500 mAh packs.

I vote for the bumpstart! :D

Paradoxmaker
02-24-2007, 03:50 PM
Hello, fellow RCZ members.

I need your help in deciding here. I just broke the rip-cord on my Ofna buggy (damn, and I really wanted to run it today, too) Anywho,......would it be a wise investmend, as a basher, to just get the starter box, instead of getting another pull-starter for my Ofna Force 25 motor? If I'm willing to spend $50-60 on one, should I just get it, instead of investing in another $20 pull-starter?

This may be a ridiculous question, seeing how my dilemma may have already answered my question for me. I just wanted to know if there's any drawbacks to getting the Ofna bump-starter, other than having to take it with me wherever I wish to run my buggy. Thanks!

Just replace the pull starter with a starter box.
I replaced my pullstarter with a Ofna compact starter box off eBay ($48 shipped) and than added 2 3000mA 7.2 packs that I got from the LHS for less than $40. I know that’s a pricy investment right off but when you consider the what you pointed out (that the pull starters are $20 a pop) and then you have to think about breaking 1-way bearings at about $17 each, it pays for it’s self pretty quickly. And as to having something else to carry with you, it’s really not that bad

rocknbil
02-24-2007, 04:02 PM
A gel cell and charger for it is actually cheaper than two of the cheapest 1500 packs you can find, and provides more amperage. 1500 X 2 = 3 amps, a gel cell starts in at 7 amps. Once you get it inside the box, you seldom have to open it again.

A gel cell will run you $14 - $20 at your local battery store, a float charger $30 or less. Don't buy the gel cell online, they have LEAD in them and shipping will kill you. A float charger allows you to plug it in and just leave it plugged in when not in use, there is no danger of overcharging.

Another long-standing argument is the single motors are stronger than dualies, I've also found this not to be true. The single motors reach a higher RPM, but its not RPM you need, it's torque. Dual 540 motor boxes are as strong or stronger than a single motor box, and if they ever wear out you can replace them with 19T mods. I regulary start "big block" .26's and .28's on my Ofna box.

You should be able to drop your Ofna with a non-PS flywheel right on a box, however, having a starter box allows most vehicles to use a different engine mount that is lower in the chassis, and the flywheel is smaller in diameter. This lowers your center of gravity and really changes the way it handles.

When you get a S/B, if you don't set it up properly your first impression might be that it is not strong enough. The pins on the box lid must align the vehicle so it PERFECTLY centers the flywheel over the S/B wheel, and when you press down the S/B wheel should not come in contact with the chassis. If it does, it will stall the wheel and you will think your box is the broblem - it's not. Look for black skidmarks around the flywheel hole.

Last point is for a buggy, it may be more practical to get a roto-start or other alternative start system. In most cases, all you need to do is swap out the backplate and get out a high-torque drill to do your start. A Craftsman 19V cordless is perfect for this.

Smib
02-24-2007, 04:07 PM
If you need torque, why get a 19t motor? If you can cram a couple of 550s in there, that would give you all the torque and speed you'll need. Also, a lathe motor might work, but I don't know if that has enough rpm.

rocknbil
02-24-2007, 04:13 PM
Check it again - it's not RPM you need, it's torque.

Most dual motor S/B's come stock with Mabuchi 540's. The advantage in using (around) 19T mods as a replacement is that the motors themselves are easily rebuildable, and on spinup reach a higher RPM than a 540. Now, I now you said you don't need RPM - you don't - but when properly using a S/B, you want to spin it up to full RPM, then lean the vehicle in in a series of "bumps" (which is why it's called a bump starter.) A mod will keep the RPM up between bumps a little better.

But 540's work fine too. They just don't have those badd-azz stickers on the cans. :D

XXWoodmanXX
02-24-2007, 04:52 PM
They just don't have those badd-azz stickers on the cans. :D

Oh. You mean the ones that are hidden inside of the s/b, not visible at all? :p

UPDATE!

Rebuilt the pull start and it worked like a charm. Mind you, it took me nearly 45 min. to do it. But, this is not something I want to grow accustomed to doing. LOL I think I'll get a starter box. :D :wave:

awnelson
02-24-2007, 08:25 PM
I broke 4 of them clean off before I decided to replace it and only run the starter box. You could also see if you can get a Sullivan drive or Rotostart for that engine. I converted my .40 4 stroke to rotostart and it has been the best $30 I ever spent. It means no more blisters, you can plug the muffler easier to prime it and it works every time.

XXWoodmanXX
02-24-2007, 08:41 PM
Thanks for the tip. Still getting used to the Rotostart on my Savvy. I like it, but the one-way wants to give way after so many starts. I use the "2-finger method" when holding the starter-wand, too. It's just that, every so often, I have to remove the OW, clean it, and rebuild the back end to work properly again. I've seen some of the torx-drive rears for the hyper and force series motors. Any recommendations on how to keep my roto-start going strong?

ss13t
02-24-2007, 09:56 PM
I for one am a huge pullstart fan. I hate lugging around extra stuff.. I guess the second best is a traxxas ez start, but I dont like the idea that theres so much unnecessary weight on board which means less performance and more inertia when you crash. The first thing I do when I get a new truck is ditch the EZ/Roto start for a pullstart. I have a buggy with a bump start engine, and a starter box, I've had it for 2 years and havent run it yet.. lol. I need to find a PS engine for it...

ss13t
02-24-2007, 09:57 PM
btw a gel battery for a starte box will weigh a lot more than 2 stick packs (at least mine does)

pleaseletmeon34
02-25-2007, 12:04 AM
True, but because I have banana jacks on on mine, I can easily plug my charger into it to wack up my receiver packs. That and have everyone with stick packs that went dead in theres come over and use it, don't need a glow igniter anymore (plugs into the box). And it will still last a few weeks on a charge.

It took me a long time to get one, but like Bill said, if its set up right, its a dream. Just plop it on and it starts, simple.

XXWoodmanXX
02-25-2007, 11:28 AM
awesome. Thanks for the feedback, pleaseletmeon34. :)

BTW, what size gel-cell you running? 5 AH? 7AH?

pleaseletmeon34
02-25-2007, 12:53 PM
The box I made has two 7ah gel cells (it has a 24 volt sullivan dynatron). It will turn over anything! One of the bats also operates the power panel. (glow igniter) Its actually a pretty compact box, shorter them most, just stands a little taller.

My other box is a Kyosho duel motor. It started out with a 7ah but later switched to a 9ah (because it fit) The 9 didn't hold up to well (lasted about 3 years) so it has a 7ah in it again. (the 7's in the dynatron box are still going strong at 12 years)

I've never had problems recoils other than the occasional "back-fire", start in reverse (have the "t" handle rip out of my hand, taking skin with it). If you want to keep the recoil thats fine, I just think the box make your day a little more enjoyable. I'm just saying if you get a box, go for the gel's over the stick packs.

XXWoodmanXX
02-25-2007, 01:34 PM
Thanks. I can get gels at a super bargain, since I install security and fire panels for a living, and these are our back-up DC power supplies :)


Thanks! :wave: