View Full Version : NEW GUY T3 HELP
Thats probably because of a differential mishap man...check that. The Associated Truck has Bushings..you have to replace those with bearings. And the motor...put the Losi's motor into the T3, and... That'll be fast(T3)! Thats all it takes.
-Isky :)
KLKLRL
04-18-2001, 12:05 AM
HI I AM VERY NEW TO THE SPORT AND I HAVE BOUGHT A XX CR BUGGY BY LOSI AND A ASSOCIATED T3 ELECTRIC TRUCK THE LOSI IS FAST AND I HAD TO BUILD IT FROM SCRATCH PUT A BLAST ESC FUTABA AM RADIO RECEVER AND SERVO AND A MVP 24 TURN MOTOR BUT THE T3 CAME READY RO RUN THE MOTOR IS A 20 TURN BUT THE BUGGY IS WAY FASTER THAN THE TRUCK ALSO THE TRUCK SEEMS TO BE A LOWER GRADE OF CAR ANY WAY HOW CAN I MAKE THIS TRUCK RACE READY FOR THE ROAD RACES AROUND HERE IN WV THERE IS NOT A DIRT TRACK NEAR BY THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS
ALSO DOES ANY ONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHY WHEN I RUN MY LOSI BUGGY ONE OF THE REAR WEELS STOPS BEFOR THE OTHERON AND SEEMS TO HAVE A LOT LESS POWER GOING TO IT :confused:
SteveP
04-18-2001, 12:28 AM
Moving to the electric section.
Nairb
04-18-2001, 01:03 AM
Cool, dude. I'm glad to hear you bought such good cars to introduce you to the hobby. You're definitely on your way to competing. BTW, I'm sure you meant CAUGHT in the web... One suggestion, please STOP typing in all caps; it annoys ALL of us very much.
OK, here we go. The motors you have are two very different types. The MVP is a very good stock motor (stick with those for now), but the AE 20 turn is major bottom-of-the-barrel stuff. Upgrade your T3 motor to an MVP or P2K and you'll be keeping up fine with your buggy.
As far as making these race-ready, this is what I suggest. The XX CR is great right now to take racing, but the T3 needs a bit of work before racing it. This is because it is the bottom-end truck AE sells. My brother recently got one and this is what I had him do. DEFINITELY upgrade these: motor >> P2K or MVP, bushings >> bearings, tires >> whatever will work well on your track (I guarantee the stock ones won't be great, ask around), dogbones >> MIP CVDs (might as well get shiny ones). These are highly suggested, but not manditory at first: steel turnbuckles >> titanium turnbuckles, stock servo >> high torque & speed servo. There are more I would add, but this will be great for now. Make sure you use the right pinion gear for your motor. A 20 or 19 tooth pinion oughtta do ya well with a stock motor and stock spur gear. Good luck!
...and most importantly, HAVE FUN!!
KLKLRL
04-18-2001, 10:29 AM
:) thanks a lot for the great info it will really help i will leave this on open for a few more days to see if anyone else has any good ideas and yea thanks for the typo fix i never caught that :cool:
space_doc
04-19-2001, 08:36 PM
I would also add an ESC upgrade. The RTR comes with a Runner if I'm not mistaken. I have the updated T3 with a F1 Pro ESC. If you plan to race, the Runner reverse can't be disable if i'm not mistaken. Thats my 2 bits. ;)
Nairb
04-20-2001, 01:38 AM
It'll work for now, IMO. This is how the runner plus works: pull trigger = forward, push trigger up to halfway = proportional brakes, push it the rest of the way = proportional reverse. Just be careful with the trigger and you'll be OK. I still suggest getting a better ESC, but this will work fine until you have all the more necessary upgrades.
KLKLRL
04-20-2001, 11:43 AM
well this is what i have done
titanum turnbuckles
full bearing set
street wheels and tires(only place to race does street corse)
reedy mvp 24 turn stock
what do you thank?
the cvd and esc is next when my next paycheck comes in lol :)
thanks for the help
also my lhs suggested alum screws and some graphite parts is this nessary or just so stuff to help out
Nairb
04-20-2001, 07:21 PM
For sure, get the CVDs the next chance you get, but everything else is optional for now. What size pinion gear are you gonna use with your MVP? I'd reccomend 18-19, but you should find the best for your application. I don't think graphite parts are worth getting, period. You'll get NOTHING extra from them, ever. Now, if they were carbon fiber, that's a different story. Graphite composite doesn't even look cooler. I say it's not worth anything extra. Blue aluminum screws are cool if you like them. Personally, I like Lunsford's titanium screws the best. They are dang expensive, but they're totally awesome. They're the coolest things I've got on my truck, still... www.tiscruz.com (http://www.tiscruz.com)
BadRacer
04-21-2001, 12:50 AM
Graphite and Aluminum are optional parts that a don't think anyone should get when first starting out. The reason is YOU DON'T NEED THEM!
I have Graphite on my XXX-T and have not noticed any fast lap times or if its stronger then the regular plastic that comes in the kit, i also have Aluminum just becuase it looks trick! LOL :D
For now i wouldn't worry about getting graphite if your on limited cash flow or if your gonna hit alot of stuff. Now about the Aluminum i wouldn't worry about that either cuz its not going to give you an edge over other racers.
Just worry about the good stuff that gets the truck running up to speed....then you can go out a trick it out with the graphite and aluminum stuff.
And most of all like Nairb said "HAVE FUN"
BadRacer :cool:
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