RC10T3 - Just built, clicking???

[AnimeKing]

Hi, I just finished my Factory Team RC10T3 and it seems that something near the back wheels is clicking. I have tried the following:

Taking off the motor and pushing the car like a hot wheel. No clicking noticed.

Taking off the transmission (the part with the gears in it whatever it's called) with the motor attached and running the motor. No clicking noticed.

I only notice the clicking when the car is running. I have thoughts that it could be the diff, but I don't wanna take it apart.

Anyone with similar problems? If so, how did you solve it?

[DerekB]

Check to see if the pinion setscrew is hitting the spur gear or if anything is hitting the gear cover.

[gatOr]

Hey I also have noticed a clicking sound on my Factory TC3. I just finished building it, and don't have any electronics or a motor in it. But, I too have noticed a clicking when I roll the car. I just figured it would maybe go away when I install the motor and stuff...

gatOr

[AnimeKing]

I've tried it with out the plastic cover over so it's not clicking on that and I'm sure the pinion or screw aren't doing it because I've tried 2 different pinions and screws too.

This seems to be a good thread if other people are having these problems.

I have not yet gotten it to go away and I'm afraid to run my car.

I have a Trinity Monster Mash (Retro) 13T w/ a HPI 19 Tooth Pinion on it. I've also tried my 20 Tooth Associated Pinion.

[Isky]

A 19t gear? Hmm...18 will fit better. Clean out your motor. I had this problem twice...once with a Stinger, and another time with Orion Chrome RS. Turned out the motor was too dirty. Next...make certain that your outdrives aren't worn down. My truck clicks too because my outdrives slots' wore down. Make certain nothing is hitting the wheel, and that you used the proper spacers in your MIP CVD's. If that doesn't help, take apart the transmission. chack to make certain that everything is fine in there:check that you used the proper washers, no plastic inside, and make certain the bearings are in completely. Try the diff too...do this LAST, because it takes time. Check to make certain all of the balls are in the diff. A ball may have lossened either inside the diff, and check if the diff thrust balls have gotten away. There should be 6 of those, and 12 carbide diff balls inside the gear. Did you use enough oil in there? Alrighty...that should be it! Check all of these things, but do the diff last...I've never had a problem with it, but if you lose the balls in there...hope this helps man...hit me back if it doesn't help!
-Isky :)

[B3 Bomb]

I just built a ft t3 too and the clicking was the cvd's take them a part and regrease them. That fixed my problem. hope it fixes yours because that gets annoying after a while.

[digex]

Also make sure the grub screws in your CVD's don't come loose and allow the pin to slide part way out. This pin will usually be long enough to stay in there and chew up your A-arms, making a clicking sound as it does so. It will usually get about an eigth of an inch into the A-arm before the pin falls out. The voice of experience :)

[Isky]

Heh...never had that prob. with my CVD's. What do you mean by "regrease them"? Doesn't say anything about grease hehe...My A-arms got chewed up about a millimeter. T'sa shame though. I've lost two CVD pins, and it cost me 8.50 to replace them. Use shrink wrap to keep 'em in even if they haven't popped out yet...lotsa money on two stinkin' pins.
-Isky :eek:

[Hell Rider]

HEY MAN I HAVE HAD SOME BAD RELASHIONSHIPS WITH THE T3 TO MAN! I JUST DONT LIKE IT BECUASE IT DOESNT LOOK SOLID AND WHEN I BUILT IT, IT DIDNT STAY TOGETHER AND PARTS WERE FALLING OUT AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT I HAVE HAD THE SAME CLICKING NOISE ON MINE TO! SO I AM GETTING A NEW CAR ITS BETWEEN THE LOSI XXX-T AND THE HPI RS4 MT! ITS A CLOSE RACE SO I'M LOSING MY HEADS ON THIS SO GO TO THE POST OF INE "WHICH IS THE BEST". OK AND TELL ME WHICH YOU THINK IS BEST AND ALL THE OTHER GUYS TO!!

LATER.... =)

[Isky]

Go with the Losi XXX-T. Can't go wrong. Take your T3 To your LHS, they'll help you.

[TUCRACEMAN]

Check all your gears and make sure all the teeth are intact. Oh, BTW, I have never had a problem with an Associated car. Guess I just build them right. :D

[Nairb]

Isky, I didn't say you had to turn into a Losi-lover. Just state your real opinion and keep it fair.

[Obi112]

About heatshrinking CVDs, definitely do it. It takes less than five minutes to do it, so there's no excuse for not...

The pin started to come loose on my B3 and I didn't notice it. The only thing I noticed was that my car was veering of to the left (because the pin was digging into the A-arm and slowing down slightly). I didn't lose the pin, but I did lose something else:

I did a powerslide (in a parking lot, not on a track) and noticed something black fly out of the car. I stopped the car and saw that I was missing a spring collar :eek: The pin must have hit the collar and snapped it off!

Oh well..........

[AnimeKing]

I have a Team Losi Dirt Spec truck too which my girl friend uses. I haven't had any problems with that one at all except some leaky shocks (not my fault).

I think I got the kinks worked out with the clicking sound, but I am definetly worried about these CVDs now...

How do I heatshrink them? What's the process? Be descriptive or include pictures please.

Thanks!

BTW, I don't love Associated or Losi...after my experiences, I still think Tamiya is the best.

[ 04-20-2001: Message edited by: AnimeKing ]

[Isky]

Nairb, I finally saw a XXX-T running on a track...Its easy to control, and drives well, but I still dont like the looks of the rear arms, no offense. Losi lover? nope, neutral towards Losi now.
-Isky

[Nairb]

No offense taken.

[B3 Bomb]

regrease them is meaning take them apart and rebuild them. When you first biuld them it calls for some black grease in the cvd if you skimp it clicks. That is what my experiences tell me. :)

[Isky]

ah, thats what you mean...I should try that. I hear something click, but i dont have the appropriate wrench to take them apart!
-Isky

[Splog]

my rc10 graphite team car used to make a click (and it only had 5hrs use tops)...from the transmission or somthing

i stripped the transmission down....was still like new

that was using a HPI 22 tooth pinion...

the original 17 tooth didn't do it (coinsidence?..)

now it's mysteriously gone =\

that's my story

probly didn't help at all but ...ah well :D

Splog

(it still does wheelies :cool: )

[ 04-25-2001: Message edited by: Splog ]