New TC3 Owner: What hopups to get, if any?

[agalanis]

Hello,

I just bought a TC3 Racer kit. I'm just wondering what the top performing hop ups to get. Personally, I'm not a BLUE=FASTER person.

Are the metal shock bodies really that much smoother than the composites?

Are the composite CVD's as fragile as I hear? (One board smack and thats it).

Aluminum battery brace, does it make the batteries run signifigantly cooler?

Unobtanium shafts, does it actually make anything move smoother? Or is it a durability hop up?

So far the hop ups I've got are a BRP front bumper and the large motor heat sink.

Thanks,

[Top End]

The only hop-ups I would suggest that really increase performance are the motor heat-sink (which you said you have), and some good shocks. Not necessarily the ones that come with the Team kit either, I think those are the same as the Racer kit plastic shocks, they just have aluminum bodies. Personally I love the Schumacher micro-shocks, they work awesome and have adjustable pistons so you don't have to pull it out to change the holes.

As for the dogbones, I've always heard that the aluminum dogbones are more fragile than the composite ones. The composite dogbones flex, and therefore don't stay bent or break.

Enjoy the TC3, its an awesome car!

[EDAE666]

Just get the heat sink , save you money for good batteries and race fees

[Team Crash]

I disagree with using the Lunsford titanium hinge pins. First they are not indestructable, I have still bent two at 90 degree angles. Second you'll find that you'll break alot more arms with titanium hinge pins because there is no give. At least you can finish a race with a bent hinge pin and there cheaper than arms too. just my 2 cents

[TufferWilde]

Agalanis,

Here are the add-ons that I got which made a difference to the car:

Large heat sink,
Threaded Shock Kit - not needed, but made adjustments and ride height really easy
Titanium Hinge Pin Set (Lunsford) - first good shot you give to the stock ones, they will bend - then the arms do not move freely

Top End is right to stay away from the Aluminum CVD's - they bend easily, and are far more costly to replace than the Composite version, only $10 for a set of 4

Don't bother with the Unob. Shock Shafts, they won't make a big difference.

[TufferWilde]

Team Crash,

you are correct that the Lunsford hinge pins are not indestructable, but they are a lot stronger than the stock pins. I didn't think of the extra force on the arm, but if you do the math, you will find that your way was probably better than mine. I think the AE pins went for $5 and the arms were $8-10.
But in the event of a big crash I only had to replace the arm, and not the pin as well.

Question for you, did you have any problems with the front hub carriers becoming worn quickly??

[Team Crash]

TufferWilde, I have not noticed any increased wear on the hub carriers as of yet.

[agalanis]

Ok, so I'll go on with my idea of "If it breaks fix/hop it up". Sounds like the composite CVD's don't break as easily as I heard. No one has really mentioned the difference between the composite shocks and metal shocks.

One new one that I'm thinking of down the road is front one way diff... anyone use one? I'm going to be racing in an indoor track that changes every week.

I'm also wondering about the anti-drive? Does anyone use those suspension arm mounts and drive with zero or negative kick-up? Again driving on indoor carpet track, where the only bumps are the duct tape.