View Full Version : sealing graphite parts
Needler56
12-10-2006, 03:55 AM
is it absolutely necessary to seal graphite parts with ca glue, if so, what's the easiest method?
MattHiggins
12-10-2006, 07:04 AM
No, it's not absolutely necessary. That said, I do it on almost every graphite chassis I own. I haven't seen a graphite chassis delaminate in over 15 years, but I seal the chassis because it doesn't hurt and looks better.
I find that the best method is to use a simple Q-Tip to spread the CA around.
LD3Furious
12-10-2006, 08:44 AM
It's also a good idea to very lightly sand the edges then seal it to help make the chassis a little safer to handle.Unsanded edges can be very sharp...especially for a corner marhsall. I agree with Matt's suggested QTip method. Just be sure to do it in a well ventilated area.
Needler56
12-10-2006, 10:40 AM
would it be better to use thin or thick ca?
wubby
12-10-2006, 02:07 PM
All the CA I dealt with always dried and turned white. I never put it on a graphite part for that reason.
Grizzbob
12-10-2006, 02:17 PM
would it be better to use thin or thick ca?
It's just a matter of personal preference. Just think of it as painting the edges using a Q-Tip, just lightly brush on the CA & give it time to dry on its own(don't bother with accelerators, that could cause the discoloring that another poster mentioned). Big thing I'd advise to be careful about is to be sure to put enough on the edges of the battery slots(maybe 2 or even 3 coats depending on the kind of CA you decide on, more coats with thinner stuff), if you don't use enough there, you risk cells shorting against the chassis(which has happened to me when I underdid it).... :cool:
wubby
12-10-2006, 10:40 PM
It's just a matter of personal preference. Just think of it as painting the edges using a Q-Tip, just lightly brush on the CA & give it time to dry on its own(don't bother with accelerators, that could cause the discoloring that another poster mentioned). Big thing I'd advise to be careful about is to be sure to put enough on the edges of the battery slots(maybe 2 or even 3 coats depending on the kind of CA you decide on, more coats with thinner stuff), if you don't use enough there, you risk cells shorting against the chassis(which has happened to me when I underdid it).... :cool:
Wait.. Woven graphite conducts electricity :huh: ?
Grizzbob
12-11-2006, 12:51 AM
Yes it does, not to the degree that most metals do, but it does indeed conduct. That's also why it's a good idea to keep your receiver's antenna as far from CF plate as possible, there's always a chance of a little interference(though it's not that bad, but every little bit helps). And I know cells can short on them because it's happened to me, nearly killed a brand new pack of IB4200WCE cells because the CA appeared to have worn off some where the slots were rubbing the cells(started to see the smoke immediately, & recognized the stink of burning CA).... :cool:
suckfish
12-11-2006, 07:09 AM
not sure if it helps , but always have done it.. mainly for the look and smooth edges..
JeffEmbracedDC
12-14-2006, 01:28 PM
Is there certain glue that will dry black/clear? Someone mentioned above that it turns white on the edges. I haven't done this myself, but I may be doing it soon and I'd rather do it right from the beginning. I don't want to junk up the edges of my chassis :) Thanks!
-J
InspGadgt
12-14-2006, 01:35 PM
CA dries clear unless something effects it during drying like a zip kicker or other accelerator.
Personally I prefer a thin CA as I feel it soaks in a bit better however the q-tip idea doesn't work well with thin as it dries too fast. Also I've had chemical reactions with some generic brand q-tips that cause the CA to turn white as well.
MattHiggins
12-14-2006, 03:00 PM
To avoid white edges and marks, wash the chassis to remove finger oils and wear Latex or simular gloves.
Demon-TC3
12-14-2006, 06:42 PM
what i do (and in the process of doing to my new TC4 FT chassis) is really curve the edges of the CF chassis with some wet n dry (800 grit) and then apply a droplet of CA glue to teh chassis, then holdin ghe chassis vertically i let the bead of CA roll down the chassis applying itself perfectly throughout the chassis edges...when dry it looks so sweet you wouldnt beleive...like glass!
theres a how to i learned this off so i aint gona take the credit for it:
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=16&mode=&order=0&thold=0
And yea, CF chassis do conduct electricity but only on the edges, the surface (unless scratched) is enameled so doesnt conduct!
MattHiggins
12-14-2006, 07:52 PM
A friend of mine polishes the edges after coating them with CA. He uses tooth paste. They come out really nice.
JeffEmbracedDC
12-14-2006, 07:57 PM
Great post! Thanks for that link, TC3.
-J
InspGadgt
12-14-2006, 08:00 PM
I wish I could do it that way...Every time I try that it ends up running all over the top and bottom of the chassis. Guess I just don't have the fine motor skills for that in my old age :)
Demon-TC3
12-15-2006, 03:14 AM
actually i tired this method myself and its surprisingly easym, as long as you have patients and apply medium sized beads of glue theres is little chance of the glue going in the wrong places.
JeffEmbracedDC
12-15-2006, 03:31 AM
I just tried this method myself and it works GREAT! Amazing. I used thin CA, dropped a drop or two on to the edge, spun it slightly and it coated the entire edge perfectly. Then I continued around the piece placing small beads of thin CA. I continued to rotate the entire piece around until it was all uniform. I didn't have to wipe anything. A little extra CA bead was flowing around the edge as I rotated the piece around. I just kept slowing rotating it till the bead got smaller and smaller due to distribution across the edge until it was completely covered. Super slick, super fast, looks great and looks really solid. Definitely use this tip.
-J
JeffEmbracedDC
12-15-2006, 03:32 AM
As I mentioned, I was using THIN CA. I don't imagine it would work quite as well with thick ca. The surface tension of the thin worked perfectly for this.
-J
InspGadgt
12-15-2006, 04:47 AM
Yeah I wouldn't try that with anything but thin CA. I used to be able to do a nice sealed edge like that and used to do several coats, sanding inbetween, and polishing at the end for a realy nice finish. But the last few I've tried just don't come out like they used to for me. Well I've got a new car kit on the way...wonder which way I'll decide to to it.
Needler56
12-15-2006, 01:14 PM
i went ahead and used a cement pen (per instructions). i'm assuming cement is the same thing as ca? i too had a bad experience with trying to run a bead, became a big mess.
Demon-TC3
12-15-2006, 07:52 PM
the first coating i applied with the Thin CA was very nice, second coat was a little more difficult but compared to the finish you get in comparison with cotton buds is just totally worth it.
That said, since i have a TC4 FT kit the internal holes like batt slots and all that need to be cutton budded because its just too small to get a bead running...
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