Matrix TQx2000 7.5, new brushes/not worth it?

[DJ BlendeR]

Hey guys, I bought a Matrix TQx2000 7.5 a few months back when I knew nothing about R/C. The guy at the store told me it was a very popular stock motor, atleast at his track for touring cars. Well after I spent the money I looked and saw it said it was only good for about 9 runs before new brushes were needed and the comm to be trued. So my question is, should I get new brushes for it or should I just forget about the motor. I havent seen anyone else talk about running this motor in their car so I thought that it must not be as great a motor as I was told. I thought it was very powerful my first 3 or 4 runs but it tapered off quickly thereafter. Oh one last question, if I should get brushes, what are some good long lasting ones?

Thanks for the help

[FilthyPierre]

Not sure about this motor, but 9 runs sounds a few too short. Maybe the brushes it comes with are too hard ? Usually, you should true the comm of a stock motor about every 15 runs, but I've gotten more than that without a noticable loss of power (if you clean it after each race meet). When you true the comm, you should change the brushes. And vice versa.
Brushes with a higher silver content are harder and will punish the comm more quickly, thus requiring the comm to be trued more often. They will give you more power however.
I prefer to use the copper brushes which are softer and don't damage the comm as much, of course the trade-off is that you don't get as much power out of it. But that just forces you to drive better to compensate http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif
The springs make a difference too - harder springs, more power, more comm wear. Softer springs, less power, less comm wear.
Finally, as there are only about 5 companies in the world that make motors (everybody just rebadges them), it's quite likely that your motor is a popular brand in disguise. For example, Trinity and some Fantom motors are made by Epic. Reedy motors are made by Yokomo. Check the endbell and the other end of the can for a branding stamp.
Try some different brushes and springs. I wouldn't abandon it at this stage. At least wait until the comm can't be trued anymore.
Hope this helps.

[DJ BlendeR]

Ok I checked, its an epic motor, so if that helps anyone else too.

[FilthyPierre]

Ok, that's good. If it's an Epic it's probably the same as a Paradox or P2K (possibly even with the pro armature). I have one of these and it's a fine motor. I've used Trinity (serrated and slotted), Fantom (serrated and non-serrated), and Orion serrated brushes in it and had no problems whatsoever. I used Reedy brushes and the comm burnt about 4 laps into the third race after installing the new brushes (with a brand new pro arm). The gearing was the same as I've always used so I'm assuming it was the brushes.
So I wouldn't throw it away just yet. Experiment.

[TufferWilde]

Since it is an Epic can, you can use any laydown type stock brushes. Personally, I use the 4499 serrated ones from trinity.

9 runs - I usually cut the comm on my stocks when the brushes look burnt. It is not nearly as important as in mods to check and cut the comms in a stock. I usually cut mine after every couple of nights of racing.

The life of each cut will depend on the track, the gearing, the brushes, the conditions (clean or not), etc. When the motor becomes worn, you will know it.

Cutting the comm and getting new brushes is a ton cheaper than buying a new motor. you can usually find someone to do it for a couple of bucks, brushes are usually around 3-5 dollars.

As for the armatures, there is no difference between the ones in the pro and the "normal" versions. the difference is that the pro versions are trued and have the serrated brushes.