Ultimate TC3 Project

[Neon_Dave]

I remember almost 3 years ago seeing a picture on Team Associated's website of a guy's custom chassis for his TC3. I remember saying "I HAVE to make one of those someday..."

Long story short - here it is. A dream come true :)

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06420.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06419.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06421.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06422.jpg

[Neon_Dave]

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06423.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06424.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06425.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06426.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06431.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06432.jpg

It weighs 1lb 56 oz / 615 g

:wave:

-Dave

[FninjaP90]

What material is that? If it's fiberglass, that's going to flex a lot.

[Neon_Dave]

It's 3mm G10 - nearly impossible to flex even if you tried ;)

-Dave

[4DMNYC]

Coooool. Are you going to be racing it on carpet?

[Neon_Dave]

To be honest, I don't really know what I'm going to be doing with it at this point. All I know is that sometime, most likely towards next summer, they'll be a Mamba Max in there.

For now, I'll probably just pick up a relatively inexpensive 19T or something and do some driving at the track. I also have to do some testing, since I plan to make some more for friends and possibly my Aftershock. Maybe even put up a few for sale. We'll see.

-Dave ;)

[rs4 rally boi]

are those screws counter-sunk?

[cnroman]

Yeah, those screws could be a problem if not counter sunk.

[hijacker]

Dave - what are the differences between that chassis and the normal TC3 chassis? Other than weight of course.

Chad

[Neon_Dave]

Yeah, those screws could be a problem if not counter sunk.

Yep, they're not. Yet ;) For now, I'm just using them to hold it all together. I don't forsee this car seeing anything but desk for another few months. By then I'll replace these with a set of countersinking screws, and will countersink the chassis.

Dave - what are the differences between that chassis and the normal TC3 chassis? Other than weight of course.

There's 4 big differences I see:
-incredibly stiff for such an inexpensive material ($20.00 / 12"x24" sheet)
-more space (no limiting triangle bracing and sidewalls) and more open to move around electronics and batteries and truly customize your weight distribution
-infinitely easier to clean (don't have to go into the triangular bracing)
-very unique look
:wave:

I'm going to have to look into the weight. I never actually measured this chassis vs. the stock and graphite chassis. I'll look into doing that. I have to do some finishing grinding and filing (notice horrid looking square cutout for motor :D) and I have to take apart the chassis anyways. I'll weigh all 3 of them (G10 chassis, stock composite, AE graphite moulded)

:)

[hijacker]

The added space for electronics would definitely be nice. Also, a bonus to not having "compartments" in the chassis would be that it will stay cleaner and rocks/debris won't collect in it.

Lookin' good. Keep us posted.

[balang_479]

i think the main advantage would be to strongly reduce the weight of the chassis, if you can do that (by cutting out holes for batteries so they sit lower and a bigger hol for the engine would be good) the performance would greatlty improvve, just get those screws cou8ntersunk and good job...

[Neon_Dave]

The battery mounting straps are done, but now I have to figure out what to put to prevent the cells from sliding side to side. I'm thinking about slots, but it would be tons easier if I were to put some sort of stopper or something. As is now, weight is not an issue.

Stock: 15.6 oz / 160 g
AE Graphite Moulded: 15.4 oz / 150 g
This G10 chassis: 15.0 oz / 140 g :wave:

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06438.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06439.jpg

-Dave

[balang_479]

well youve shaved 0.6 oz from it, just need to countersink those screws.

[tmacfan4321]

Slots are most likely the way to go, saves weight and has lower cg.

[Neon_Dave]

Slots are most likely the way to go, saves weight and has lower cg.

Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing, but that means to add another maybe 5 hours to the project...

Plus I plan to do a G10 conversion on my Aftershock within the next week or so :cool: :D

[Neon_Dave]

It's about done now :wave: I'm still thinking about adding a mid upper deck for tuning flex, but I don't know yet.

Anyways, here it is!

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06712.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06713.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06715.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06719.jpg
The whole setup is just shy of 1,500 g (or 3 lb 46 oz) :rolleyes:
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06721.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06720.jpg

And it's got it's own spot on the shelf :wave:
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06725.jpg

Cheers
Dave :)

[XXWoodmanXX]

Magnificent work! Very inspiring. :)

Can you provide a link to the vendor of the material used?

[Neon_Dave]

Thanks :)

I'm excited to see its performance on the track, but for now I'll have to settle for a quick test run on the street tonight :p

The material is 3mm G10, that can be found at http://www.redarrowhobbies.com/fin.htm for about $20.00 / sheet :)

Dave

[davo798]

no time to test...go make more parts for your aftershock and see how light you can make it!

[LD3Furious]

All that time, effort, and hard work put into an AE car...only to stick a body on it that has a TL sticker on it....SACRILEGE!!!!







J/K....nice work :)

[pjerry]

dude that car looks amazing!!!! awesome machine-ing work! i love the body personally cause losi is da bomb! :D

[pjerry]

and what batts are those? they look sweet!

[Neon_Dave]

All that time, effort, and hard work put into an AE car...only to stick a body on it that has a TL sticker on it....SACRILEGE!!!!







J/K....nice work :)

Just to remind me of the truck I'd like to be driving, but am not (while driving this car :wave: ) Plus, I ran out of AE stickers.... :D :D :D

and what batts are those? they look sweet!

They're cheapo E-bay 3300's "powerizers" apparently. They have served me well so far, even through many shorts and lots and lots of use. Still going strong!

_____________

I have to fix a few things on the car itself now, after the test.... Which, I am downright shocked at how incredibly well this car can corner. It just refuses to slide! No understeer, no oversteer - Just pure joyous cornering. It's unbeleivably low to the ground, and you can feel the low center of gravity acting on it's handling abilities. It responds lightning fast, and turns just how you want it to. I tell ya, I have never seen this car handle so awesome! Even at top speeds with the new LRP F1 Pro 16T :wave:

Anyways, I still have to fully break in the motor and seat the brushes, because still it's not going smoothly at all, and I also have to raise the cells a little, because due to a slight error in measurement (meaning sticking the cells on the chassis and tracing them :D :rolleyes: ) the cells stick out too far and scrape the ground :huh: :D

Otherwise, no complaints. I am just impressed.

I'll post a video tomorrow of it for you all to see what I'm rambling on about :)

Dave

[XXWoodmanXX]

Awesome! Looking forward to it! :)

[pjerry]

that car is so amazing btw, how did you get all the holes in the right places? did you match it up with the original chassis? and how did you countersink the holes? i might just make my own chassis now!

[Neon_Dave]

did you match it up with the original chassis?

For the most part, yes. Otherwise, it's just a matter of some layout designing and planning where you want everything, then placing them on loosely, and marking where their respective holes are.

Then you punch them (to make dimples to guide the drill bit) and drill away. To make a chassis or any part for that matter, a Drill Press is a must. You need one for countersinking as well...

To countersink, you just get a bigger bit, about the diameter of the largest part of the head of the screw, with approximately the same angled shape. Then you just set the limiter on the drill press (to stop drilling any further than a certain point) to where only the tip makes it through the chassis, but the rest just makes an angled inwards hole, which if done right, will fit your screws and holes well.

Not perfectly though, as it is done by hand, however more than good enough for mounting properly. It takes time, you can't rush it or you'll likely make mistakes that may screw up the peice you're making. Practice a bit on some excess material too, to get the skills down.

Then, you're ready to go!

If you guys would like, I could make a video showing the basics of chassis making, so you can make 'em yourself :)

Cheers
Dave :)

[ElectricThunder]

That's an awesome chassis. I like your G10 and fiberglass stuff. What did you use to cut it? Dremel, scrollsaw, or something else?

[Neon_Dave]

Pictures really tell a thousand words :D

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06748.jpg
...and my workshop in the garage (too much mess and dust for in the house)
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06749.jpg
...and finally the bit. It really does resemble a turbine, doesn't it? :D :rolleyes:
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06752.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06758.jpg

It's my Mastercraft rotary tool, with it's dremel metal-cutting bit, which powers through everything you throw at it. You cut 3 mil G10 like butter - especially when it's spinning nearly 20k RPM :D So far the most successful bit I've tried. All my others went dull in a matter of a few cuts. This bit just keeps on cutting and cutting, with no heat and virtually no wear. Darn near the best bit you can get for this stuff at $16.00 ;)

You would want to be careful with saw blades / bits, as fiberglass is a very tough material and is hard on blades' teeth, while G10 is probably exponentially more so. Especially 1.5 mm and up. The key to saws is, like the rotary tools, a metal cutting bit. Anything that can cut metal can cut this. Basically all you need to know as far as bits and blades :wave:

Dave

[B4 Stealth]

How did you make your aluminum standoffs?

[Demon-TC3]

Just...wow....that is really somethin...

I personally still love the TC3 and whoever says its not competative anymore can kiss my used, dirty tyres!

Lov what youve done and without a CAM machine, that is some dan fine work.

Cant see exactly how you've mounted the motor to the chassis so maybe a pic or two of that would be most excellent of you!

As for the battery movement thing, i did this with my old Academy buggy, just drill 4 holes next to the batt slots so they are in the mid of the outermost cells. then cet some more CSK screws and screw them up from the underneath, then in this order make a sandwich: washer, fuel tubing (size depends on length of screw), washer, locknut. then when its all on togetherm get some heatshrink tubing and put a layer of that on over all of it.

It works very well and if you do the measurements right will hold the cells SNUG!

[rs4 rally boi]

very nice. im sure the battery straps make it more rigid as well

[Neon_Dave]

I managed to solve the battery scraping the ground problem :rolleyes: I simply glued some plastic rods of about 2mm diameter to each part of the slots. This raises the cells by.... 2mm :D

The weather's being really uncooperative at the moment and I've still yet to get a chance to do a real test session, and hopefully get a video in.

Dave

[microrcdude]

Thats a killer project! Really inspires me to continue with one of my buggy projects.

[MarkieMark231]

Looks awsome. We need more projects like this!!