Ultimate Micro RS4 Project

[Neon_Dave]

For a while now, I've been planning a new setup for my Micro RS4, and I'm just about done now. I'm really happy with the final chassis. I also finished my NSX body :D

Now I'm waiting on a set of RX crystals to come in, as well as my Mamba 6800 motor/ESC :)

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC05920.jpg
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http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC05929.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC05926.jpg

:wave:

[Adanmtxt1]

Good choice on body!! I have that one and love it. My problem is that my MRS4 understeers heavily. I feel discouraged from hopping it up, so I packed it up in its box, and I'll take it out in a year or so and deck it out with a cf chassis, maybe brushless, and an aluminum front brace.

[suck my wake]

what did you make the chassis out of and how much did the materials cost. I am currently looking into making a chassis and was pricing some g 10 and didnt like the prices i found. By the way props on the rear shock

[^j!nx^]

2 weekends ago I was doing speed runs with my micro RS4, Mamba CompX with a 3cell lipo. Lets just say it was a litle to fast LOL

[Neon_Dave]

Just a little? :D

what did you make the chassis out of and how much did the materials cost. I am currently looking into making a chassis and was pricing some g 10 and didnt like the prices i found. By the way props on the rear shock

It's 2mm thick G10 / Fiberglass, custom machined by yours truly :) If you like, I can make you one (for a price, or course ;) ) Depends what kind of chassis you have in mind, and how much space you need.



Update: So far the project's going great, I now have to make a mount for my sub-micro servo and decide where exactly the receiver's going to go. As of now for the batteries I plan to either Shoo-Goo or hot glue the cells onto the lower chassis and secure then with another set of plates. With aluminum standoffs ;) Can't wait 'till I can track-test it :D

[hijacker]

Dave - I've seen guys have trouble with the hot glue holding batteries in place. It seems sometimes the batteries can get so hot they actually will melt the glue just enough to release the pack.

I use automotive grade velcro, much better than the junk you pick up at wal-mart.

[PocketAce]

That chassis is amazing. Must be light, and still pretty easy to drill holes on it..! Me likey!

[z-man280]

looks good dave,....see if the CP will lift it!!!:D

[Neon_Dave]

That chassis is amazing. Must be light, and still pretty easy to drill holes on it..! Me likey!

Yep. The wonders of Fiberglass. Characteristics similar to that of Carbon Fiber, for a fraction of the cost :wave:

Dave - I've seen guys have trouble with the hot glue holding batteries in place. It seems sometimes the batteries can get so hot they actually will melt the glue just enough to release the pack.

I can't say I havent had that happen before.... :rolleyes: And with the high current draw of a mamba, It's likely it'll happen again... :D Looks like I'll be making some slots in the chassis or putting two thin strips of either fiberglass or plastic as a slot for the batteries, and then a plate to secure them in :cool:

I'm also curious to see how much the chassis weighs, minus electronics. I'll stick it on the scale tomorrow and take some more pics :)

-Dave

[balang_479]

Nice ride, and nice custom chassis. One question i have never known the answer too. how are the Micro RS4s wheels (also Xray M18) wheels attached to the car?? there no nut.

[InspGadgt]

There is a nut but the car uses an inner and outer wheel to adjust the width of the car. The inner wheel bolts to the axle with a nut. The outer wheel presses on over the inner wheel and has the hub cap and tire.

[balang_479]

There is a nut but the car uses an inner and outer wheel to adjust the width of the car. The inner wheel bolts to the axle with a nut. The outer wheel presses on over the inner wheel and has the hub cap and tire.

and you just squash it in or is there another method? also is the Xray m18 exactly the same?

[terrible-t]

Xray & HPI uses the same style Wheel & adapters. Just sqeeze them on. Just a pain to remove. Has any one tried installing 17mm adapters on the front? I did with the Xray M18. you can still use the 14mm adapter, but they do come off. Improved the handling.

[Neon_Dave]

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC05936.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC05935.jpg

:driving: 60 oz / 170 g.

Right now the parts are going into a bath of ferric chloride :D The Fiberglass I was buying was the PCB-grade 2mm fiberglass w/ layer of copper. I couldn't find any other places to buy some... 'till now.

TC3's going to have a complete fiberglass makeover soon too ;)

[terrible-t]

Printed circuit board material. I the strength of it is is vulnerable, and brittle ,But a try is a good project. Just dont throw away the original chassis. Cuz it will crack after a collision. Like my kid riding his bike, and bumping next my Corvette, with a 2 inch gash on the fender. Funny thing was, nothing happened with the bike. Nice work though!!! Good luck with it.

[B4 Stealth]

6.0, 60 oz would be over four pounds :D

[terrible-t]

16oz=1lb. So,it 3.75 lbs. That would make it heavy. 60grm =.375lbs that sound better, just a tad over 1/3 of a pound.

[balang_479]

its not 16oz but 6oz i believe by looking at the image. How much lighter is it t7han stock..

[Neon_Dave]

Err... my mistake :o 6.0 oz / 170 grams :D

It's not lighter than stock - it's heavier. But it handles exponentially better and it's got tons of space for stuff, and it's a LOT stronger in every area (notice the beefy 1/10th scale posts...) Yesterday I test fitted my Li-Po's.... :D

I've experimented with many different kinds of circuit board fiberglass, some seem to be stronger than others. I'm gonna use 3mm thick G10 for my TC3's chassis though (not PCB material;))

This chassis is very strong though, despite the brittleness of certain types of fiberglass. A simple bead of superglue around the edges does the trick :D

Thus far I've broken a front bumper plate, which was due to a pretty much head-on meeting with a curb.... at ~30mph. I've also had one screw (at the bottom of the standoffs to the rear upper deck) rip out of the chassis. That was for two reasons:
A) the car weighed ~700 g (custom-made 540 conversion, with 5 sub-c cells :D - I ended off the 540 project a while ago when the fact that the car was so heavy and almost undriveably unstable (due to the weight) and I decided to get some 2/3 A packs with the Orion Big Block) and...
B) I ran over a sewer at roughly 30-35 mph and the car just went nuts (I counted 18 flips that day :wave: )

Otherwise I've never had any problems with the fiberglass being brittle or anything like that.



The more I research about the mamba, the more I want to drive it!!! :rolleyes:

-Dave

[Neon_Dave]

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06043.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/BCP_Dave/DSC06050.jpg
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Finished the chassis - all that needs to be added is the mamba system :D

Weighs 12.4 oz / 350 g w/out the motor and esc :wave:

I like... :D