Smoky motors and smokier batteries

[ImprezaWRC]

I was running my RS4 Rally the other day when at the end of my run, I noticed smoke! It was coming from the motor, so I went home and cleaned the motor up in case there was anything lodged in it. Afterward, I charged it on up again, and there was more smoke, but this time, it was from the batteries! The plastic from my stick pack was melting at the bottom.

Now I run a Trinity Green Machine Pro in the car, and run a 90T spur, and 30T pinion. I have been for awhile, and never had trouble before. Since my motor first started smoking though, all of my wires get hot, and my batteries get really hot after only 30 seconds of running on a full charge. My ESC and servo seem okay, but my motor, batteries, and wires are acting up. I must admit I'm stumped. The motor still runs, but the batteries continue to heat up really quick and my run time is down to about a minute after a full charge. I don't get it....the other stuff happened after my motor began acting up, but what could I have done to get a brand new motor to start smoking, when I changed nothing from my setup I had before? I don't know much about it, so any help would be appreciated.

[Nairb]

Buying a Green Machine 3 = bad choice. I've burned up two of these motors in my XXXT, even when I used very conservative gearing. These motors just don't like to last. I knoe exactly what you're talking about. Check the motor's armature; are some of the winds black? If so, it's toasted and won't work well anymore. Do yourself a favor and don't buy another GM3. If I were you, I'd get a Reedy MVP instead. I bought a P2K because I needed more torque for a truck.

Anyway, the motor gets very hot very fast because it has toasted (maybe even thrown a wind, my friend's did that) and is basically shorting out and drawing SERIOUS current. That ***** the juice out of your battery extremely fast and is not good for them. I hope you haven't over stressed the batteries. You'll need to get a new motor (NOT a GM3) and hope your batts are OK. Good luck.

[Grizzbob]

Well, I don't know for certain if you're overgeared(not familiar with HPI's outdrive ratios), but I do know that the GM3 (& to some extent, the MVP, too) does seem more sensitive to gearing, & too much could easily toast it. As Nairb mentioned, once it throws a wind or burn them up, the motor's a paperweight, & will just cause more trouble with your electrics if you continue to run it. To be honest, for any purposes except for racing(& for several racing situations, too) I still recommend a P2K, it still puts out more torque than any other motor I've seen(& I've tested alot of them on my dyno & my cars) & it's MUCH more tolerant of whatever gearing you put to it. I've also noticed that they seem to be the most efficient of the stocks I've tested, which makes them good for 4-cell racing(like 1/12 scale pan cars). It's just an easier motor to live with..... http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[bobcedric]

Make sure the batteries are not shorting or being reverse connected. I did that and smoked a 2400 pack!

[ImprezaWRC]

Thanks, guys. Indeed, just about every wire in the motor is black. I left my pack in for only a few seconds, so I'm hoping the batteries are okay. No more GM3's for me. As for my batts, mine too are 2400's, Trinity Sanyo matched cells. If I've lost these packs(there were two), I lost out $140! and the $30 for the motor. If this is the case, I think I'm giving R/C a rest. This is ridiculous.

[bullfrog]

ahhh rc at its best lol j/k

[Railman]

Nairb & Grizzbob nailed it! P2k is a proven, high performance, cool running, & durable motor & is still the choice for most of the fast guys that I know. Some have been racing the same motor for over a year (very easy on the com).my next choice would be the MPV, however gear ratios & motor setup are more of a critical necesity with this type of motor. P2K!