Discharging

[n2o]

I have 2 Sanyo 2400 stick packs I bought just to get started. But I plan to buy some really good packs soon and maybe some NiMH packs as well. Right now I dont have a discharger and I just re-charge my packs after each run :rolleyes:

Anyway, what discharger should I get? Anyone know anything about the Trinity Real Time II Battery Discharger?? Can I use that with my stick packs as well as my side by sides I am going to build? I want to get a good one because as I get the money for it all, I want to get the best stuff I can.. thanks

-n2o

[Obi112]

You can't use Trinity's dischager with stick packs. It has screws that contact each cell's positive and negative sides. In order to discharge both, your best bet is a light bulb charger. There are websites that tell you how to do this, but Dean's sells a kit that discharges at 20 amps. They also sell a "black box" that cut-offs the current draw when the battery reaches the ideal voltage.

[n2o]

Well look at this pic from tower hobbies.

Discharger (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LXNK02&P=7)

It looks like it has 2 clips you could use to discharge a stick pack..

-n2o

[Interceptor]

What do you mean, gonna get some good cells? 2400s rock!!!! screw NIMH!!!!

[XXXER]

n2o: The Dean's discharger is awesome, it doubles as a car stand, you can buy it preassembled, and as a kit. The Real Time II is a discharger ONLY for side by side packs, and it is used, after a discharge on a bulb set. What it does, is it brings each cell down to .0 volts. Those 2 clips, you connect to the battery also, and it operates a built in fan, to help keep the cells cool.

I bought a preassembled Racer's Edge bulb discharger, for 20 dollars. No cut-off unit though, so i am going to get one of them.

[n2o]

That deans one is pretty cool. So should I get the DEANS discharger set AND a deans black box so I dont kill the cells. And then put them on the Trinity Discharger to match them up and then charge them?? This is just about as expensive as my nitro!!

-n2o

[Obi112]

Well, the Black Box would be a wise investment, but you could just disconnect the battery when the lights go out. The Trinity discharger isn't necessary if you have a Deans, since matched cells should dump together.

[Leet TC3]

XXXer: The trinity discharger doesn't bring the batts to 0 volts, but to around .9 volts. The little bulbs act as a switch, when the power is such that they turn off, the battery stops the discharge.

This little unit is great for equalizing packs. But you do need saddles or side x sides for it to work.

[tc3guy]

n2o,
If you get a buld discharger before you get the black box you should unplug the cells when the the light are very dim not when the bulbs are totally out. If you do that you will dead short your cells. That can lead to bad things happening to your batteries.

[IR]

If you feel like searching, you can also find the schematics for making your own 'black box" online. I built mine out of parts from Rad Shack, I think it cost me about 10 bones. If I find the URL, I'll post it for ya.

[IR]

I found that URL. Check it out. Making a cut-off box was fairly easy. http://www.nascart.com/disd.htm

[n2o]

thanks alot guys!! I'm going to try and make that black box and just see how it works. If I find any other plans I will post them for you guys.. thanks

-n2o

[Interceptor]

This is going to sound stupid, but the box goes between the light discharger and the battery, right? I'm going after work to pick up the pieces and build one of those. Thank you for posting that.

[Interceptor]

Ok, I got all the pieces and assembled it, but the lights won't stay on unless I hold the button down. I am going to tear it down and try it again tomorrow. That is a tight fit in there. Oh, does the resistor have a positive end?

[IR]

Your right. The bulbs, then the box, then the batts. I put Deans Ultra Plugs in between each piece so I can tear it down and put the whole thing in my tool box easier.
Good luck. I think the hardest part of the whole box, was fitting all the wire in there. Take your time and it should be a piece of cake.

[steveaggie]

no, resistors don't have positives and negatives. They are just a very tightly coiled piece of wire with a coating on it.

[Interceptor]

Ok, I think my problem is my switch. I bought the one that was listed, but the lights only come one when I hit the button. I would have to hold it down to get it to discharge. Aren't the lights supposed to stay on after you hit the button once? Anyone have any other parts numbers for another switch that will work?

[IR]

What is supposed to happen is that when you push the button the circuit on the relay switch closes and the power from the batts is used to light up the bulbs. When the voltage drops below .9 the circuit on the relay switch opens and the bulbs go off. If you have to constantly hold the button to light the bulbs, than it's 1 or 2 things. Your batts are discharged below the .9 cutoff voltage. or, you have either picked up the wrong kind of button, relay or resistors or you have it wired wrong. If you know the batts are not discharged all the way, than go through the list again and make sure you have picked up the right numbers. Then go back and doublecheck all of the connections. It's easy to get turned around in that little box. If nothing seems to work, than undo it all and start from scratch.

Good luck!

[Interceptor]

I clamped the button down and discharged, the circuit opened when the batteries dumped, so it seems that everything else is working. I will try to get another type of switch and see if that works.

[Obi112]

No, he needs a new button. The circuit works when he holds the button down. You must have bought a momentary switch (the connection is closed only when the switch is depressed). You need an on/off switch (don't know the correct terminology for this type). It has to work like the switch on your computer.

[IR]

The unit need to be able to shut off when the current drops to .9 v. An on/off switch will not allow this to happen. The plans call for a momentary switch and since I followed those plans and mine works as it should than I have to go with Howard on this, he probably doesn't have the relay wired right.

[HowieStern]

he has to use a momentary switch.....

the relay acts as the primary on/off "switch"...

there can only be 2 things wrong...

1. he has the relay wired incorrectly

2. the voltage sensor is wired improperly...

because it is a bit hard to correctly wire a relay the first time, i'm guessing that is the problem... but it could actually be either of the two listed above...

peace out... :)

[Interceptor]

Ok, now I followed the wiring diagram just like it showed, so I am stumped. Any ideas that would cause it to act like this? would something be backwards? Can one of you gentlemen crack open your box and get some pics of it?

[ 07-05-2001: Message edited by: Interceptor ]

[IR]

I'll open mine up tonight and get some pics. The real has to be wired EXACTLY as it is shown! The tabs on the relay all have a particular purpose and getting them mixed up will casue it not to work at all.

[HowieStern]

i don't think you need a new switch.... it sounds like you have your relay wired incorrectly.... double check your wiring on the relay....

peace out.... :)