So what is really needed as a setup?

[USATorque55]

Well, i've searched and read quite a bit. I received a second hand compressor that is in perfect shape, 10-15 years old.

Its a 45psi compressor. I don't have a tank but if I needed to I could pick one up, my birthday is in a few days anyway.

I have on order, a Iwata Revolution CR, a basic Iwata 10' tube. I've got a mask, eye protection.

I'm just starting out and plan to just practice when I get it, going to just practice on paper, cardboard, plastic, anything that could be cooler with some customization.

Even after reading I still have a tank load worth of questions.

Questions:
1. Should I buy a tank, if so which one? Link to sears or home depot if possible?
2. Is a moisture filter really necessary for personal use?
3. How long does a coat take to dry on a lexan body?
4. How do I over-reduce something?
5. What liquid do I want to clean my brush?[I've heard some weird things]
6. Best recommended way to clean a brush like the Revolution CR?
7. How do I pronounce Iwata?

Thanks, I plan to be a regular contributor in this forum. Been using rattle cans for way too long.

[Farwar]

I'll try to answer some that I know I'm sure of.

2. I would get a moisture filter. The compressor will produce water and you don't want that mixing with your paint when you spray it and ruin your best body you've worked hours on. :)

3. It really depends on how much you put on. They way I do it and it is the best way is to work in light coats. You can use a hairdryer to speed up the drying times.

4. It depends on what type of paint you are using. I use auto air paints and if i want to reduce it, I would put a couple drops of reducer in the paint to make it thinner and more transparent.

5. This again depends on your paint. If you're using waterbased, you could just clean it out with water. I use a airbrush cleaner when I'm done painting to make sure everything is out. For laquer based paints, you would use laquer thinner.

6. The way I clean my brush out with water based is I dump put the excess paint back in the bottle(Saves paint) and then I put it under the tap and rinse out the paint and spray until it runs clean. I also backflush to help get the paint out too. When I'm done painting for the day I would do the same procedure as above but take the needle out and wipe it down.

7. I-Wa-Ta :D

Hope it helps you some.

[Piggy89373]

Wow, glad you get right to the point with the simple questions. :D:D:D

To paint, you only need three things: paint (obviously), an air source, and an airbrush. If you want to paint right and be able to paint again, you need a constant air source that's adjustable, a reducing agent, and something to clean the brush with.

Reducers are simply liquids that reduce the concentration of the pigment and allow the paint to flow easier. They also reduce the surface tension of the paints so the pigments are atomized better.

Practice is always a good thing and is never unproductive. So, here's my take on the rest of your questions:

1. It's not necessary to get a tank compressor. A tank compressor provides some good advantages over hobby compressors, but it's not an absolute necessity. As long as you can manipulate the airflow and it connects correctly to your brush, you're good.

2. The first time you try to spray something and a half frozen glob of water sticks in the tip of your brush, you'll wish you had put out that extra 10 bucks for the cheap model at Harbor Freight.

3. That depends on the type of paint, the reducing agent, and how thick the coat is. If you're using acrylics and thinning them with water, it'll take longer than if you thinned with alcohol or even Windex. If you completely soak the area with paint, it's time to clean up and make a sammich. It'll be a while. BTW, it's always best to mist the paint on so the coats are ultra thin.

4. Just add more reducer to the mix. If your usual mix is 50/50 paint to reducer, if you mix it 10% paint and 90% reducer, you've just over reduced.

5. The liquid you use must be compatable with the paint you've sprayed. If you spray lacquers, don't use water or water based liquids to clean your brush (unless you're looking for a reason to get a new brush). If you're spraying lacquers, use lacquer thinner to clean up the brush. If you spray acrylics, use water or alcohol (or even Windex) to clean up the brush. They also make some great cleaning kits that include everything you need to clean your brush...just add water.

6. To clean your brush, you'll need: some lint free towels, a good supply of q-tips, and patience. Rinse out the color cup thoroughly, wipe it out, and clean all the crevices with q-tips. For the brush, thoroughly flush with thinner, wipe it down, clean the crevices with q-tips, flush thoroughly again (to get rid of any fibers from the q-tips. If you have the brush cleaning kits, they'll help tremendously.

7. Not a clue! It's just an extension of your hand, so it doesn't matter what you call it. You could always name it so you never have to worry about pronouncing Iwata. Hne..Hne...Hne...I have changed it's name...you will now call it...Betty.

[USATorque55]

Thanks for the help guys, I'll definitely be posting in this forum more often.

Which leads me to my next question.....

What type of paint is something like SpazStix or Parma, etc...?
What type of thinner is needed for SpazStix, Parma, etc...?
What type of cleaner is needed for Spazstix, Parma, etc...?

Again, I appreciate the help like none other.

[FESTER2004]

parma faskolor is non toxic water based paint. the pactra line is like a lauquar paint in which u will need to dilute it with paint thinner n to clean up u will need paint thinner.it can be messy n smelly!faskolor is easier to use,cleans up with water.u can thin downed the faskolor with a lil windex.

yeah u came to the rite forum/website.there r alot of awesome people here!

[CarbonMadness]

parma faskolor is non toxic water based paint. the pactra line is like a lauquar paint in which u will need to dilute it with paint thinner n to clean up u will need paint thinner.it can be messy n smelly!faskolor is easier to use,cleans up with water.u can thin downed the faskolor with a lil windex.

Spazstix paints are also lacquer based.

[Piggy89373]

Pactra actually comes in two flavors: Acrylics and Lacquers. As stated before, thin lacquers with a quality lacquer thinner and acrylics get thinned with a water based liquid.

[Farwar]

I wouldn't recommend using windex to clean out your airbrush. Windex has ammonia in is and it will eat away at the chrome on the airbrush and eventually the brass. I would just use plain water and if you want, you can get some airbrush cleaner. Water has always worked for me spraying it through then backflushing until all the paint is out.

If you want another option for paint, look for either createx or Createx Auto Air(what I use, don't care for faskolor). Auto Air comes in 4oz. bottles also.

[extremetmaxxer]

actually iwata is pronounced

E-waa-ta

with a little bit of an oriental flavor

thats how the reps and higher ups pronounce it

[USATorque55]

Got the brush today in the mail.

Here I guess is my main concern.

The compressor I have is old, and doesn't have an on/off switch. As soon as you plug it in its spouting air. So what happens when I connect the brush, a line, and the compressor, turn the compressor on but I'm not spraying. Won't I either blow a seal in the brush or just build up pressure in the line?

Would it be wise to invest in a small 2,3 gallon tank to keep at a psi of say 30?

Just don't want to damage anything