TC3, Smoked my motor! help me decide.

[SoonToBeLowS10]

Right now im on 3000mah, 6c pack's..

I've been thinking of a few motor's.. Just dont know which is best for me..

Trinity p2k2

chameleon 2 Pro [Is it worth the extra $10 over the p2k2?]

Associated Reedy Spec 19T Quad Magnet Motor

Associated Reedy MVP Stock Rebuildable Motor [27 turn]


Of course there's always the Mamba Max, But i dont see myself getting into brushless at the moment.

Im mainly bashing, So it really dont matter, But i would like to be the fastest on the block..

What gearing would you run in a TC3?

[SoonToBeLowS10]

Is it that just this forum is slow, Or shall i start naming my thread's Brushless and Lipo?

Seriously tho, Is there a "Reccomended" motor, for around my class? [19-27t]

[Sherminator]

do you race or bash?

[scoob]

If your just bashing get a 19 turn. I have a chameleon and it's nice. I've heard that the Reedy quadmag is stronger though. 19 turns have decent power. Stock motors just aren't much fun for me. I have a p2k2 in a T4 that I race in stock class but if i wanted to just have fun I would want more horsepower. If you want to be fastest on the block get a 19 and cross your fingers :) .

[Mini-TBasher55]

i also smoked my motor. It killed the esc too. if you want speed, go with 19turn. I like the chameleon 2 pro for dual motor applications in monster trucks (clod, txt-1) but I think the 19t will be good for a tc3. also look at the speed gems. A 15t, 17t, or even 19t would be fast. Whats your esc's motor limit?

[bensb4]

your just bashing so:
Trinity p2k2=no,its a racing motor meant for racing.brushes and performance will wear down after 5-10 runs.rebuilds will be often

chameleon 2 Pro=also a racing only motor.alot of bashers swear by them but you can get the same if not better performance of this LOCKED 24* timed single wound motor with a budget mod 19x2
no offence but to me those both are lazy noobish ways the lhs guy throws at ya when you ask to go faster and thats wrong.the manufactureres made it easy for us basher to make machined wound versions at low cost of the same hand wound $70 mods for us.what if someone has something faster that that chameleon?well then your stuck.at lest with a mod you can adjust the timing.
personally i bash with a orion fromula sv2 17x2 and i burn my friends chameleon easily.its got the new angled round brushes.heres a list for some good budget mods.the 19x2 will have more top end than the chameleon.keep in mind o dont recommend anything i dont try myself
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=formula+sv2+pro+bb&FVPROFIL=++&search=Go
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=reedy+flash&FVPROFIL=++&search=Go
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=lrp+v10+&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=epic+intense&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=speedgems+pro&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

[SoonToBeLowS10]

Where would i find info on these Speed gem's? Who are they made by?

As for my ESC's limit, the hobby shop said i should be fine down to a 17t, but i'd have to watch the heat. It's an LRP runner W/ Rev digital.

ESC limit 18t+, from..
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNZ49&P=7

I'd rather stick with a 19t, or higher.

I like those reedy flashes, but i dont see a 19t, And i seriously dont wanna wory about my ESC. If it goes, I go Brushless.


I really would like to know what happened to my motor. Com look's good, rushes look good, But i can't get my Armature [Due to not having right sized pinion..] out of the can to see what it's looking like. However, It still spin's freely [With the little magnetic force, of course.]

But the end bell on the other hand.. Stripped screw hole, Where the spring that hold's the brush in goes, There's some melted pastic by the bearing in the end bell.

I think what happened, Was when i was adjusting my mesh, One of the "Terminal's" [I dunno what to call them in RC, that's what we'd call em in car audio..], Was hanging out of the bottom of the chassis. Rubbing the ground creating friction which = heat.

Anyway i can get another end bell, And send this motor off with my slotcar buddy, for some tweeking and tuning..?

For some reason, Without my motor even in the room, I can still smell that plastic burning smell. I hope my ESC aint gone.. but i've got no way to check till i get a new motor. Could also be where my notor started melting the chassis

When shopping for a motor, should max RPM be a major factor?

[scoob]

In Bensb4 post above, the last link is to the speedgems motors. I have a bunch of these I got in a trade( 9,10,11,12,13,14,15, and 16 turn). They are nice but I have a lathe and brushes. In honesty I would get one of the formula sv2 motors in the first link. They are supposed to hold up very well with very little maintenence. There is a 19x2. They only cost a few bucks more than the speedgems. The 19 turn speedgems is very expensive for some reason. I honestly don't know if the formula sv2 would be as fast though because I've not tried them.

You are right about not pushing your ESC too hard. I usually try to stay 1 turn above the limit but I'm pretty much all Brushless/li-po these days.

[SoonToBeLowS10]

Im waiting to find a Used Mambo Max.. But for bashing, I can't see spending anymore then i have to..

I dont see a Speedgem 19t in the last link above.

Do i look for Top RPM's in a motor, or?

Also, I should start using some kinda Afterrun lube [power shot], Correct?

[bensb4]

SOONTOBELOW- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=Arcornite&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go
dont bother with top rpms as much as power/watts.you only got a 18t limit esc so your limited to the acornite 19x1 or orion sv2 19x2.the sv2 is faster than the acornite because its only a single wind

SCOOB-theres a pro acornite speed gem 19x1 which is handwound thats why its expensive and machine wound like the rest of the 29.99 sgems.personally i havent tried the handwound but i know for a fact the 19x2 sv2 is going to be faster,more brush life and low cleaning then the acornite machine wound

[SoonToBeLowS10]

So, this motor it is?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAK4&P=7

Sound's good to me, I just GOTTA ditch those bullet connector's for Dean's.

Think i could jump to a 7c pack? My ESC say's it'll handle it..

Also, Is it possible to put a better heatsink + maybe a small fan on the motor?

Where would i wire the fan, And i assume one from an old computer / PS2 will work? I plan on mounting it to the window of my Sedan body, Blowing on the ESC / Motor.



Welp, I know where $50.35+S&H of my check tomarrow is going..

Duratrax power shot decent motor spray?

Will i need Break-In drop's?

I take it the SV2 is Fixed timing?

[scoob]

I believe the timing is locked on the motor you linked above. That motor also has bushings instead of ball bearings.

The pro BB version that bensb4 linked above has adjustable timing and ball bearings for an extra $6.

[SoonToBeLowS10]

Also, Any secret Discount's, or code's for tower?

[gizmoguy303]

If you want speed you don't have to buy a 7-cell pack. Just buy a modified motor like a Checkpoint or V2. DC Motorsports has some really good handwounds.

7 cells + cheap machine-wound = no fun and a toasted motor.

[SoonToBeLowS10]

I think im pretty much Stuck on the SV2 BB.. To get more Oooomph from it, I'll just mess with gearing for now.

[bensb4]

If you want speed you don't have to buy a 7-cell pack. Just buy a modified motor like a Checkpoint or V2. DC Motorsports has some really good handwounds.

7 cells + cheap machine-wound = no fun and a toasted motor.

he only has a lrp runner esc.all you have to do is advance the timing on the motor for more speed soontobelow.i wouldnt run 7 cels because thats heat for a lousy 1-2mph more you dont really need.
this is the ball bearing one im talking about
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAJ6&P=7
since you got a touring car you can run this type THE INTEGY ONES
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=integy+fan&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

they plug right onto the 3rd channel or bec of your receiver and run off little power but in my experience theyve cause some glitching.so i tried a 9v and 9v adaptor but since the max volts for the fans are 5v it burned one out.so it was back to radioshack and i found these
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062238&cp=&origkw=aa+holder&kw=aa+holder&parentPage=search
2 aa's install and the top is a 9v adaptor so i use rechargable nimhs aa's equaling 2.4 volts and since there 2400 mah they get me thru 6-7 rc runs.so youd still need to solder on the 9v plugs then snap in 2 aa's and connect if you dont mind the weight.

[SoonToBeLowS10]

I was reading that i shouldnt go past +12*'s.. is this correct, and why?

How would i tell where the "sweet spot" would be?

Also, The back of my Hitec Transmitter has a charger plug.. Where would i find an adapter, And i assume my peak charger would handle charging them?

[bensb4]

usually the manufaturer already has them set to the best performance.the more timing you go the more heat,brush wear you get.also you usually have to gear down.mine came with about 12* timing but i always turn mine back to 5*

youd 1st need to read your charger manuel because some chargers dont allow anything lower than sub c batteries to be charged.safer to say just buy one of those 15 minute wall chargers and another 4 pack of rechargable batts.i use a raovak 8 aa charger and bought a bunch of rechargable nimh AA's

[SoonToBeLowS10]

Maybe i can just find a charger from Radio shack, Ect. To plug in..

[SoonToBeLowS10]

your just bashing so:
chameleon 2 Pro=also a racing only motor.alot of bashers swear by them but you can get the same if not better performance of this LOCKED 24* timed single wound motor with a budget mod 19x2



Would you call it a bad move, If im buying one from a guy who claim's he Tune's ect his own motor's, for say, $20 shipped?

This would be of course, Untill i can afford the SV2 Pro BB..

[bensb4]

if its locked timing then you better buy another set of brushes

[SoonToBeLowS10]

Hopfully this motor's in decent condition, and i can run it untill i get an SV2.. It is locked, @ 24* i believe..

But for $18.50, Who can complain? worse come's to worse, atleast i got some Salvagable part's..

[gizmoguy303]

As long as the comm is above .270 and he cut it and rebrushed it before he sold it to you, it'll be fine.

[SoonToBeLowS10]

He did say most his motor's are Freshly cut, And have fairly new brushes.. Brushes are easy to change right? One hook spring thing, And a screw?

[bensb4]

yea but unless he solders his brushes to the hoods which is better

[SoonToBeLowS10]

I still havent recieved the motor i bought. hopfully it'll ship soon.

But tonight, out of shear bordom, I re-built my other motor. When i pulled it apart, black plastic [Maybe comm material?!], And ect fell out, Freeing it up. It grind's all the way threwout, But work's! I think the Endbell also warped a bit, as it's not exactly flush with the Can. One of the screw's the Brush spring goes onto was stripped / Melted loose, And one of the one's that hold the brush wire on was as well.

It's all together, And i put it in my car tonight, on a low pack. worked suprisingly good, And also the Elec tape on just the rear tire's was decently fun in the garage.

I hope my new motor comes soon.

Anyone know what pinion came on the TC3 RTR ?

[bensb4]

23 tooth

[XXWoodmanXX]

I'm really suprised noone mentioned this ESC to you yet:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_36_51&products_id=16819

It is just a de-badged Futaba MC330CR ESC, and for less than HALF the price of one, too! And it's >13 turns :cool:

[bensb4]

I'm really suprised noone mentioned this ESC to you yet:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_36_51&products_id=16819

It is just a de-badged Futaba MC330CR ESC, and for less than HALF the price of one, too! And it's >13 turns :cool:

i was gonna recommend the actual futaba one but its real sensative to moisture.

[SoonToBeLowS10]

Trinity make's the cham 2, correct?

Anyone have any info on a "Velocity Racing motor"? on the front of the can, it says "Epic19". I searched tower, And couldnt pull up anything on them.

I got my new motor in today, it was supposed to be a cham2, but apears not to be.

And Ben, as you said before the brushes are soldered to the hood. It also came with a spare set of brushes, And the armature where the brushes would contact dont look to be too discolored.

Now, i have a chore on my hand's. Time to run around town trying to find a hex driver to fit the pinion.

Idunno, the more and more i look at it, Vs the pic of the cham 2 on tower, the more they look identicle. WTH's the deal with epic stamped all over it tho?

Ah HAH:
http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/43/501.htm?877

Is this the same as the trinity cham2?

[bensb4]

it sounds to me like you got a handout motor which is at a club race whateveryone has to or can use when you pay your entry fee.its the same motor just not labeled for lhs sale.

[SoonToBeLowS10]

He mentioned he tuned, cut, ect all his motor's.

On a pack that kept going dead [Pull throttle to half, hold, and it's go low.], at half throttle it looked as if it'd eat my stock motor alive. Im peaking my pack right now, But dont have the correct Pinion wrench [.50's to small?!], so im trying to put pressure on the one i have that's a tad to small to tighten it. Every few run's it slip's and its time to re-tighten.

Now i just need to install some dean's plug's, And sit back and wait for something to break.

Is it normal for the Brush and Comm to spark when accelerating hard?
Brushes got PLENTLY of life left [Actually, They look new. Not black at all. The comm. barley has any], its got purple brushsprings.

Oh yeah, This thing FLYS! i just ran it for about ~5min, but on the carpet and bumpy concrete i gotta watch how fast i launch it. :)

[bensb4]

yea sparks are normal.its just the brush bounce you see