Time for a brush upgrade

[raffaelli]

Time for me to move up form the Iwata Revolution CR to something else. I think my ability has improved beyond the .5 needle. I was looking around the Iwata site and came up with a couple to consider.

Micron CM-B - It has a .18 needle. Do I really need a line that fine for the price ticket? My natural instinct is just to get the best one :D . But do I need it?

HiLine HP-BH - Has a .2 needle for roughly half the price of the CM-B.

High Performance HP-B+ - Has a .2 needle. Even less than the HiLine.


I think I like the middle sized cup 1/16 oz. The 1/3 cup I have now if just too big. This is why I have selected the 'B' in the series.

What do I get? :confused: I think I might be leaning toward the HiLine HP-BH.

[ApriliaRacer]

You don't need the absolute best/most expensive or in this case the finest tip.

I've been airbrushing for over 25 years. I currently have a couple of Iwata HP-Cs, Sotar, Paasche VSR90, Badger Anthem, and a couple Paasche VLSs.

I've found that the VLS or the Anthem does everything I need for painting R/C Car bodies. I've yet to find a reason/need to use the HP-Cs or even the Sotar.

Both of the those airbrushes handles the range of mediums I use. As a matter of fact, the main VLS I use is over 10 years old....




Time for me to move up form the Iwata Revolution CR to something else. I think my ability has improved beyond the .5 needle. I was looking around the Iwata site and came up with a couple to consider.

Micron CM-B - It has a .18 needle. Do I really need a line that fine for the price ticket? My natural instinct is just to get the best one :D . But do I need it?

HiLine HP-BH - Has a .2 needle for roughly half the price of the CM-B.

High Performance HP-B+ - Has a .2 needle. Even less than the HiLine.


I think I like the middle sized cup 1/16 oz. The 1/3 cup I have now if just too big. This is why I have selected the 'B' in the series.

What do I get? :confused: I think I might be leaning toward the HiLine HP-BH.

[Farwar]

It depends on what you are going to be painting. If you are going to be doing super fine detail, the micron could be for you. I use a Iwata HP-C+ and it is a big step from the revolution I have. I wanted a detail airbrush for other paintings I do. The revolution can handle r/c bodies no problem. What are you going to be painting?

[raffaelli]

Bodies. I have the .5 Revolution. Time for a thinner line.

[MaxxThrasher]

I also primarily use the Revolution for bodies. If reduced enough and with low PSI you can get some fine detail. If your finding you need even more detail, I doubt you'll see a difference between the .18 and .2 needles. Go with the less expensive.
I just recieved a SATA graph 1 with a .25 needle and it seems to be more then enough for detail on a R/C shell.

[extremetmaxxer]

most of the time your skill is what is lacking and not the airbrush, i know of a bunch of people with microns... and i only know a couple who can use it to its full potential.... and im not one of em! lol :D

the eclipse hp-cs is a step up from the revolution and will spray a finer detail with the .35 tip and this is what i use as my work horse and for most automotive applications this provides all the detail i need

the hp-c or hp-c plus is basically the most popular brush ever made besides for maybe the vl, i have two of these in my stable and i use them for portraits and canvas work mainly you cant go wrong with the hp-c and it will orivde all the detail your ever going to need

the micron is well, the micron it takes a sharp eye and a skilled hand to yeild this little bugger and for anything but the professional your better spending your money else wear.... like on airbrush lessons! ;)

now me i dont even think you need a new brush... sometimes just playing with your technique and paint viscosity will yeild a dramatic improvement in the quuality of the detail line.

mainly for doing tight precise work, you want to have your paint to the consitancy of water or ink.... as thin as you can get it (this goes for the micron as well... you spray straight auto-air through a micron and you'll think you wasted 400 bucks, ive seen it happen before)

once youve gotten to the point wear when you spray it out and you barley see anything its so thin and it will run like mad.... that the point wear you want to be! lol i know it sounds a little oposite of what your used to but it works...

the key to this is building your line up in layers... dont make one line and say its good.... this is how most people do airbrush work... they spray a line and try to match it in one shot, to the line that a pro took 5-10-15 passes to make.. then they get frustrated when it looks like crap they post on here that there brush sucks and there paint sucks and theres NO WAY that they could have made a mistake! :D :D

so if you layer passes of that insanley thin mixture you'll start to notice i fine tighter line that looks like a pro did it in one shot, but we all no the secret now.. right?

try that with your revolution experiment with your techique your paint thickness and your air pressure with those ideas in mind and you should be quite satisfied with the performance of the revolution

the technique is hard to get used too but once you do get the hang of it you'll notice a huge improvment in your art

if you've tried all this and still want a brush.. then refer back to the recomendations and try the same technique again

[raffaelli]

The mixtures I have been using aare fairly thin, I would not say they are as thin as water. I will try that this weekend. I do layer the lines, probably not as 'invisilbe' as you are suggesting. Thank you for your input. I will try it out this weekend.

[extremetmaxxer]

practice and experiment, what could it hurt! lol :p

[Farwar]

Good post extreme. I agree that you should play with it some more. To me, the revolution is good for doing r/c bodies. It can spray wide and still get some good detail. I bought an hp-c+ to do with doing stuff on canvas and panels. It's always fun to play around with another brush too.