View Full Version : Project TL01
Killer_TL01
10-28-2000, 12:03 AM
I had a idea last night on how I could lighten the weight on my TL01. The way I would try is to pretty much cut the 2 gear boxes apart so that there is nothing but the gear boxes and connect them with a upper and lower carbon fiber decks. My question is has somebody tried this or does someone make a kit to do this. Also in place of the original screws I'll be installing some Titanium screws. I want to hear everybodys suggestions on this including the adminastrators. I know you people are going say I'm nuts for wanting to do this but I'm trying to make a TC3 killer out of this.
riggy
11-01-2000, 01:44 AM
why dont you just buy yourself the lightweight chassis for the tl01 and save yourself all the trouble? use titanium scres thru out and put in the carbon propshaft and carbon gear shafts, use ta03 ball diff for the rear and a one way diff for the front, it'll be fast enuff...and i heard, come january 2001, you'll get the long arm suspension set for the tl01..which should get it handling superbly.....after all this..your tl01 will cost more than a brand new ta03. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
Racer A
11-01-2000, 09:21 AM
in the project baja champ issue they weighed all the performance parts and the ball dif weighed more than the stock one.
riggy
11-02-2000, 12:37 AM
the project baja champ used the MANTA RAY ball diff..which is definitely heavier than the gear diff..i suggested the TA03 ball diff set which uses aluminium alloy pressure plates compare with the steel one of the manta rays..therefore as light or even lighter than the gear diff of the kit. i should know coz i still have one of each diff spare in my spare parts case.
Killer_TL01
11-03-2000, 02:07 PM
Well Riggy already have the lightweight chassis and just ordered the carbon driveshaft. When I weighed the thing this summer it weighed appx 2.5 lbs or 40 oz for you metric guys. The only point I have in trying to do this is to reduce the weight and maybe have something more for a TC3. Thats my goal. The only problem I need to figure out a fix for is the steering servo. I'm trying to make this an easy mod that anyone with some experience in R/Cing can do. I'm not going to try to make this fancy smanchy sterring system to make this thing turn. Also if you want to know I could of bought 9 or 10 Ta03's with after I get more parts net weekend. Yes thats right it has 1100 dollars put into it. Keep in mind that I'm only doing this just to be able to say that mine is more expensive than yours. Not really though. Wen I get started on it and complete it I'll post some pics and hopefully some data on speed and soforth.
Racer A
11-03-2000, 10:43 PM
I think cross or eagle makes aluminum suspension arms. You can get 'em from Claifornia R/C for $21
riggy
11-04-2000, 12:32 AM
hmm..i'd recommend u keep using the lightweight chassis but take a drill..drill a few holes here and there...if you every weigh a lightweight chassis against any carbon fibre deck...i'd say that the difference is negligable. we usually drill a big hole under where the servo saver sits for easy reach of the servo screw...we drill off big square at the battery area and we also drill a ventilation hole for the motor below and at where the receiver/esc is supposed to sit..this gives better cooling.all i know..the car's very very light after all this...
ever try running a one way diff up front?..i'd suggest you get one. for extra caster up front..try the tg10/tb01 stock plastic front hub carrier..it gives 10 degrees of caster..that helps in stability. however i seriously request that you wait till january for the long suspension arm set..as stated..
and eeerrr...we metric ppl dont quote in ounces..how about grams or kilograms? http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
Killer_TL01
11-04-2000, 10:43 PM
No I havent tried a 1 way up front but maybe for Christmas I'll ask for some Ta03 ball diffs and a one way. Also riggy could you send me some picks of where you drilled the holes. Thank you for saving me alot of frustration in trying to do this. Even though its not legal to modify it that way and race it in Roar or Norca. Email me at jcspeed4@juno.com with a pic or 2 of where you drilled. Also I'm picking up a 13x2 Chrome mod from Orion. What 2000 battery would you recomend to keep some 6 or 5 minute runs in sight. Just think if I havent put all thi money into it I could actually have a real sprint car in my car port. All well not in my budget I guess. Thanks for all your help. Also lokked at almn susp arms but decided to pick up some single piece plastic arms from Cross to help save some weight. Opps forgot to ask how wide will the new arms widen the car and so I need to pick up pretty much a whole ne suspension with driveshafts or universals?
[This message has been edited by Killer_TL01 (edited 11-04-2000).]
riggy
11-05-2000, 09:02 AM
hi there...suggest you save up for 2400s.
havent had any pics taken of the tl01s yet...but basically you could drill about 2 1cm diameter holes below the battery (the plastic below the battery...and one hole at the servo as stated...
the new long arm suspension is about the same width..but it locates the arms right to the uprights like in a rs4pro 2 or the ta04...any car should handle better with those arms...hope the january rumour of its release is correct.
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