Good Soldering Iron??

[B3 Bomb]

After burning up about 20 of the crafsman ones and taking the radio shack one out of the box and finding that it took 12 minutes to desolder motor leads I need a good quality soldering iron. Any sugestions, thanks a lot.

[RCJunkie]

I use a weller portasol. Its a butane iron. about 40 bucks. Its adjustable from 20-60watt range and heats up in about 10 seconds. Plus its small, portable (hence the name) and you dont need to plug it in.

[TA03 Drive Hard]

Hey you need something with higher wattage... like a 100 watt iron... it works wonders... all those 50-60 watt iron are baby stuff... and you're right... it takes long to desolder wires of motor tabs with radio shacks kind... the higher the wattage the better =) i hope that helps ya =D

[Nairb]

I just got a Weller 50 Watt iron with a maroon handle and it kicks serious booty. It was designed specifically for R/C chores, so you can't go wrong. It was about $45. I won't go near a cheapo iron like the Hobbico or Radio Shack ones EVER again.

[erics]

I have one of the WELLER ones with the seperate blue "power supply" thing. Soldering Irons and Transmitters are something you should just go ahead and drop down the bucks for. I think it cost like $80, but it should last me for the next DOZEN years....

So do yourself the favor and just uP the cash and get a good highend iron.

[Sprite@]

Haiko is great too. Love mine.

[rvrrun]

I also have a Weller (w/ the blue 'power supply' thing) w/ grounded, temp sensing tip, and while it is great for attaching wires to ESC's and motors, it doesn't do as well at assembling batt packs. For that the 60-100w wands do work better.

If you cant afford both, the best bet would probably be the wand (Weller's are great) with different size tips for different soldering chores.

MS

[foo]

Something to take into account is that it's not just the power of the iron, but the size of the tip also.

I have a 60W Weller iron that has temperature controlled tips. If I put the small conical 1mm tip on that I use for small electronics work, it doesn't work for soldering motor leads and you can forget about doing batteries. If I put on the big 5mm tip (at the same temperature) then I can solder batteries in an instant.

[mrfyrehawk]

I've been using a radio shack iron for years. If you just plug it in and go, sure it'll take forever to melt solder. I usually plug my iron in about 15min before I need it, then it's all nice and hot when I do need it.

[Nairb]

I just did a LOT of soldering with my Weller 50 Watt, and it was like a dream. What a beauty! It heats up in seconds and will solder anything (including batteries) in a snap. I find myself waiting longer than usual before I let go of the wires being soldered because they get so completely hot that it takes longer to cool down and set. Frankly, it is worth EVERY PENNY ($48).

[rvrrun]

Foo,

What temp setting are you using to do your batts? Everytime I try (even with a wide tip) my Weller wont get hot enough. I'm wondering if it has a defect.

MS

[Nairb]

My 50W Weller still worked on batteries two minutes after I unplugged it. Now THAT's power, baby.

[hpiguy]

I use the cheap irons from Hobbico. The 6 dollar 60watt iron that they sell with a free extra tip.

60 watts is more then all the heat you will ever need. If you need 100watts to solder motors and batts you are doing it WAY wrong.

I also use a Radio Shack base mounted switchable iron (19.99) that heats at 20 and 40 watts for Deans plugs and ESC wiring, etc.

Don't knock these inexpensive irons. Both are well over five years old and have yet to need anything more thna a couple new tips. They both heat up in about three minutes and stay hot enough to do pack after pack after pack all day. Oh and it only takes about 5 seconds to solder a bar on a battery if you are doing it right. If it takes longer you are ruining the iron and the battery and need to take a course in proper soldering.

My 6 dollar iron will work just as well as your 80 dollar Wellers and I'll have cash to blow on more fun stuff. And if I forget it, or loan it out it's only six bucks gone if it gets lost or stolen.

I've been soldering longer than most of you have been alive so I know what I'm talking about. Please stop knocking the inexpensive equipment just because the commericals in the mags tell you to. After you do it for awhile you'll realize most of this stuff is just hype and marketing. An example, Trinity sells a comm stick for 7.99, when if you just opened your eyes you can get the same exact item at an auto body shop for 4.99 a dozen. The same with soldering irons. Half of the overpriced 80 dollar irons out there are made in the same factory as my 6 dollar iron, but when they slap the "Weller" or any name brand on it you guys will pay anything for it.

[MJ]

HPIGuy, Please enlighten us. What is your technique for making a good connection between 12 gauge braided wire and a Dean’s connector with a 20W soldering iron in less than a half an hour. I am obviously doing this wrong.

[Nairb]

Well, HPIguy, I have plenty of soldering experience with all types of irons, and I profess that it DOES make a difference. First I had my Ungar 40 W and it worked well, but it was lost when I moved to a new house. At that time my brother had a cheap radio shack one. It worked ok for a while, but when it came time to assemble my new 3000 in September, it absolutely would NOT get hot enough for it. So I went to my LHS to get a new one. I saw the $7 Hobicco 60 W iron and snapped that baby right up. It seemed to work well for a while, but not too long. It came time to replace the tip and I had to buy some because my brother threw away the free extra one (I know, how stupid is that?). I had to buy a set of three. We put one in the iron, but by that time the iron had self-destructed, seriously. Man, we hadn't really done a LOT of soldering, but it was already done for in a matter of a few months. Don't get me wrong, I take care of my stuff better than most people, but this iron wouldn't have it. It may have been good & hot in the beginning, but that just led to its demise. How did it self-destruct? It melted itself out of the handle! You really get what you pay for in this case. No, I didn't leave it plugged in for hours on end (not even one hour in a row), no, I didn't abuse it whatsoever. It was just cheap. So, I lost my good Ungar, and threw away a crappy Radio Shack & Hobbico irons so far. I decided to go for a good quality iron this time, and holy crap was it worth it. This $48 Weller 50W iron is a beast. It truly amazes me every time I use it. It heats up so fast and gets so hot, I have to unplug it every few minutes (while soldering) to protect the tip. I've learned my lesson. Never in a million years will I EVER get a cheapo iron again. NEVER! There is ABSOLUTELY no comparison! The thing is really worth its weight in gold to me. I can feel its quality assembly every time I use it. It has nice rubber grip and just overall quality in every way. Go ahead and deprive yourself if you want, but I truly know the value of a good soldering iron, and it was only $48.

[XXXER]

Hiya Nairb, i knew you would be on tonight! LOL, either way, i have a cheap POS Radioshack 40W one, and at the track, you jsut cannot pull as much volts(this is my theory at least) out of the plugs, so it does matter, and Nairb's iron kicks some serious whoop tushy, i used it tonight(thanks Bri http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif ) and it was hot enough within 30 seconds to solder up my motor wires.

[Nairb]

NP, Stev-O. I firmly believe these quality irons can make the world a better place. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[LosiMan3456]

Hey I have a weller also. It is the one that has OFF LO HI settings. It only has 35 watts though. Can it still do batteries? A lot of people at my track have the same one. I told my dad I need higher voltage but he doesnt want to buy a new one. What should I do. Convince him to buy a new one or stay with the one I have.

[hpiguy]

I'm glad that you can find a good iron.

But I use my chepo irons for years and it is just fine.

I'm obviously doing something right.

To each their own.

[MJ]

HPIGuy, I was not trying to be sarcastic. I obviously do not know how to solder. I went out an bought a 100/140 W Weller gun because I could not get my 12 gauge braided wire hot enough to tin the end using a no-name 40W iron. Is there a technique or was my 40W iron only pulling 15W? By the way, the 100/140W gun works FAST.

[hpiguy]

Well for one thing the iron needs to be tinned also when it is new. It helps heat transfer immensly.

Then when you are about to solder you place the iron on the wire and put the solder between the iron and the wire. It will flow from the iron tip to the wire quickly and evenly fill all the filaments of the wire. To make this process faster I apply a small amount of solder to the iron (a VERY small drop, not globs)

I use the 20 watt setting for fine electronics (servo wires, antenna wires, ESC internals, etc.) and the 40 Watt setting for Deans connectors and joining wires). My 60 watt Hobbico is used for Batteries almost exclusively and making brass parts for my boats, like water pickups, and turn fins.

Make sure the tip comes in FULL contact with the area to be soldered also. If it is only partially touching it, it will not solder quickly and you'll get a bad joint.

This method has made thousands of successful, low resistance and STRONG jojnts for me and everyone else that does it this way. How you chose to do it is yuor business, I'm merely trying to help. Putting in words a technique I have been doing for a decade or much more is very hard. Soldering has become as easy as putting nuts on bolts if you catch my drift.

[This message has been edited by hpiguy (edited 02-13-2001).]

[foo]

rvrun,
I use the 700 fahrenheit (370 celcius) tip.
As long as I remember to clean the battery ends, I've never had a problem. (Dremel with a wire brush works well.. fine sandpaper is just as good, but I'm lazy http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif ).

[Nairb]

HPIguy, everything I've ever heard says that your technique of melting the solder with the iron is wrong. That is exactly how you get cold solder joints that pop apart when you least expect it. It might be working for you so far, but it is NOT the best way to do it. When you solder like that, the solder is not bonding optimally to the wires, battery, battery bars, etc., it is just resting next to it and holding on to imperfections in the surface. You are right about a lot of things, but I'm certain that relying on the iron to melt the solder itself is not a great idea. Administrators, am I right or am I right? The best way to solder is to heat up the wire, battery (bar), etc, and melt the solder with its heat. That is how you avoid "cold" solder connections.

[RCJunkie]

I gotta go with Nairb on this one. The melted solder flows toward the heat so you must heat the wire and then apply solder, otherwise the solder hangs on the iron and you end up with a cold solder joint that doesn't fill in the gaps and snaps apart. After you make a connection the solder should be nice and shiny. If its dull go ahead and do it over.

[hpiguy]

OK I should clarify my statement before more of you call me stupid.

What I mean to say is that you have to get a small amount of solder on the iron before you apply ther iron to the surface of the items ot be soldered. I don't mean that you leave a dry iron on the material and then run slolder down the iron. I reread my post and it definetly looks like I'm doing it that way.

While soldering the solder on my projects doesn't really touch the iron from my roll of solder. I was assuming you could figure it out, but boy was I wrong.

This could all be clarified if I could show it to you guys and not have to write it all the time.

Too bad RCCa isn't running a HOW TO article on soldering with the pictures. Obvviosly the members of this board have missed the last fifty articles on pack building, motor soldering etc. Maybe they need to put it in once a month for you guys who don't bother doing a search or looking in the magazine for answers. Sheesh next time I won't help.

PS I'll edit my post for clarity.

[Nairb]

Dude I was trying to be polite. Just chill out a bit. All I've written about here is my experience; like it or not, that's what I've learned.

[ShaunTGO]

I bought a Hobbico 60-Watt iron from tower for about 6 bucks, nice and clean and fast warm up, comes with a stand, but you'll need to buy the replacement tips for it to get the one with a ball-point end. it works great, easy to hold and cool off.

[XXXER]

HPIGUY---->STUPID! Ohhh, rats. Did you have to go and clarify yourself? LOL. Just kiddin buddy.

[hpiguy]

I was wondering when you would say something.

http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[ammoace]

I have soldered one motor connection and one wire joint in my entire 16 years of R/C because I never knew how. I do have a pen style radio shack iron that is older then some of the people on this site...LOL
I did came to this post to learn...
HPIGUY, what type of course teaches soldering? The obvious answer would be an electronic repair course. I would rather just learn how to solder without going through the rest of the stuff.
Everyone else on this post,
Can't we all just agree to disagree?

[hpiguy]

A ot of tech schools run programs in the summer for residents who want to learn more about anything they teach.

I went to one as a kid and it cost about 40 bucks for ten one hour classes.

They taught EVERYTHING about electronics, including soldering and basic repair. It was really worth the time spent.

[ammoace]

Cool, There just happens to be a decent school here in Abilene
Thanks for the info.
AMMOACE