How can you decrease steering slop with 18T?

[chilly4kc]

Sorry to post this here, but I can't seem to post in the vehicle section anymore.....

Anyway, just got a FT 18T with a Mamba Competition X system, and Hi-Tec 65HB servo.

I started to adjust the camber and toe and now the steering is less responsive. The truck trurns good to the side of the servo, but the other side is slow or doesn't move. Makes it difficult to trun the truck now.

I've read that the AE ballcups start to bind when you start adjusting for toe and camber, so is there a good aftermarket part to take out the binding? Should I get a more beefy servo?

Better yet both? :)

[WJ Birmingham]

http://www.drivenpro.net/index.php?s=store

Thats the ONLY thing I've found that works for removing steering slop. And it DOES work.

As for the camber/toe-in, I use the steel RC18T turnbuckle kit without issue. Depending on the track, I run about 1-2 degrees camber, and about 2-3 degrees front toe in (using a tape measure to check front/rear tire distances).

Get the "red" O-rings for the TC4 shock rebuilds, and put two of them around the servo saver (yes, it's a PITA to do), and it'll tighten up the servo saver response.

The stock servo sucks, I happened to find a discontinued small digital out of Korea, so I bought 4, just for a few spares. So far, it's kickin butt.

-WJ

[adam lancia]

hey WJ, i've been keeping tabs on the new Li batteries your company is making, nice work. i have a question for you about the 18b: what should i look for as far as specs for a servo? i want metal gears but digital is not a must. any ideas? thanks!

adam

[chilly4kc]

http://www.drivenpro.net/index.php?s=store

Thats the ONLY thing I've found that works for removing steering slop. And it DOES work.

As for the camber/toe-in, I use the steel RC18T turnbuckle kit without issue. Depending on the track, I run about 1-2 degrees camber, and about 2-3 degrees front toe in (using a tape measure to check front/rear tire distances).

Get the "red" O-rings for the TC4 shock rebuilds, and put two of them around the servo saver (yes, it's a PITA to do), and it'll tighten up the servo saver response.

The stock servo sucks, I happened to find a discontinued small digital out of Korea, so I bought 4, just for a few spares. So far, it's kickin butt.

-WJ

I actually have seen that option part before. It's only $8 dollars and it might be worth investing in before buying a new servo.

I'll try the red o rings. I should have some from a T4 that will work.

So I assume buy the meatal version of the steering rack from companies like Integy doesn't help with performance?

[WJ Birmingham]

hey WJ, i've been keeping tabs on the new Li batteries your company is making, nice work. i have a question for you about the 18b: what should i look for as far as specs for a servo? i want metal gears but digital is not a must. any ideas? thanks!

adam

Adam,

Thanks for the compliments. Here's the specs of the discontinued servo I use:

1. Type of Gear Plastic gear
2. Motor type Ferrite brush motor
3. Operating Voltage 4.8 V ~ 6 V
4. Neutral pulse 1.5 §Â
5. Travel angle 40 ~ 45¡Æat +/-400 §Á
6. Dead Band 1 ~ 2 §Á (Adjustable)
7. Speed 0.11 (sec/60¡Æ at 4.8V)
8. Torque 1.2 (kg/cm at 4.8V)
9.Weight (g) 10g
10.Dimensions (mm) 21.8x11x19.8

While they're not listed on his site, I know Bill Stevens at Steven's Aeromodel still has a few of these left. http://www.stevensaero.com

You'll probably have to send him an e-mail and get him to add them to the site. While you're at it, aggrevate him some... As him plenty of car questions, as he's not a big fan of RC Cars (and I love ribbing him about it).

Chilly;

Everything I've seen besides the Driven Pro product is a copy of the factory piece, except from aluminum. A aluminum copy of a poor plastic product yields a poor aluminum product.

The above mentioned Mr. Stevens and I have been conspiring to bring a product similar to the Driven Pro fix to the market, but make it commercially available via the big distributors.

-WJ