P2K Pro clarification

[Nairb]

So, the P2K Pro has all three capacitors already included in the endbell, right? So all I'll have to solder on is a Schottky Diode and the motor wires, right? I'll be getting one next week, if my check comes by then.

Before I dive in and get a P2K Pro, do any of you have legitimate issues with it or have you got other favorite stock motors that can outperform a P2K and still be rebuildable? I'll be running the new motor in a XXXT on a tight indoor track, so torque is important. Any suggestions?

[TufferWilde]

Nairb,

Personally, where torque is needed, I would go with either the Chrome RS, or the P2k Pro.
I use the Chrome in my FT T3 (first vehicle I have liked that motor in!) and the P2k Pro in my MR4-TcW

And, yes, just the Shottky and you are running. I have heard of people blowing the installed caps, but few and far between.

Hope this helps!

[JP]

Yes it has all capacitors, no mod motors usually use schottky diodes.

I havent had a faster electric motor, the Reedy Rage Type R falls apart AND is slower in accel and top end. Buy 4499 brushes and green springs both from Trinity and put them on right away (then break them in). That is the BEST combo for this motor. Also, go down about 1-2 teeth than you would usually because it seams to have a LOT more torque that way.

[J mAn]

i run it in a xxxt on a tight track too and its probably the best for this type of track.

[ovalnator]

Nairb, get the normal version, not the pro. You will save a few bucks, which you can use to buy a pair of brushes from Todd putnam at Putnam Propulsion. His brushes are awesome.

Ihave many reedy rages and they dont fall apart. They are great stock motors and will hang with any other stock motor.

BTW; Schotky diodes are used in both stock AND mod motors.

[gacjr0]

I don't like the P2K Pro. It's the Pro part that bothers me. They don't dyno tune, or put any consideration into the motor. They just put in brushes/springs, throw it on the dyno and sell it. I've seen a wild variation in the dyno numbers on "Pros". According to the dyno sheets some of them should not have left the factory but there they were. Just get a regular motor and do the tuning yourself. Do the steps Jim Dieter has in this months mag, but don't run out and buy the 6 or 7 Trinity products listed, get what you want. Good Luck.

[Nairb]

In another post I said that I bought a GM3. I immediately installed some brand new Reedy 767 brushes and broke it in that way. I've only run it once (read my ...trouble thread), but it sure screamed. The dyno numbers did seem pretty weak, but I think these brushes have helped it out a lot. The most important part of a "pro" motor is that the Commutator is trued. For people like me that don'e have a lathe, this is a great head start. Besides, aren't all stock motors supposed to be $40 anyway?