CO 27 stock motor questions..

[Bugs Buggy]

I'm trying to conserve both parts and funds for the moment by switching from modified truck back to stock buggy on race nights. I just got a CO27 stock motor (will unload a few other motors at my local LHS to make up the $$) and had a few setup questions...

I normally get the "Pro" motors from Trinity, but this one was the "Regular garden variety" (they don't have the pro version at my LHS yet..). I got XXX laydown brushes for it so they will last a while. I will also reshim the motor to make sure that's right. It looks like it comes with two purple springs, which for the moment I'll leave alone (I think this is correct.. sometimes I can't tell what color the springs really are..especially if it's between purple, black, green or darker colors...slightly colorblind I guess :D I can tell what color Reedy springs are though, so maybe it isn't just me...).

The only thing I don't have is a hood alignment tool to align the bursh hoods. It visually looks ok , but would that make enough of a difference to warrant getting a tool to do that? And wouldn't I need the little screwdriver that unscrews the spring posts as well in order to do the alignment??? Between that tool and the screwdriver, that's nearly the same price as the motor itself or at least 2/3 :rolleyes:

Just wondering if getting those tools and using them on my motor are really worth it....

:cool:

Bugs..

[gizmoguy303]

http://www.motortuningsecrets.com/tunestockmotor.html

If you don't have the money to spend doing this, don't worry about it for now. Either ask a racing buddy to help you out and/or lend you his tools, or do what you can by yourself and get a tuned motor in the future.

If you have a dremel and a cutting disk attachment, you can grind a slot in the spring posts and use that to unscrew the posts. Check out the link above and you should be able to do most of it without spending any extra $$. The only thing I wouldn't do is totally remove the bushings from the motor like it talks about in that article. Just leave them in.

Good luck! :)

[highroller]

Every motor may not need hoods aligned, or armature shimmed - even then try checking before doing it. Use the cheaper brushes to check hood alignment- color face of brush with a black or red marker then run motor for about a minute - as long as brushes are wearing down the center alignment is fine. Get the shims that come in an assortment of thicknesses, trying to shim with one size may defeat what you are trying to accomplish and might throw off the actual alignment again.

While certain equipment is going to add to the cost, and you might be able to use the equipment of a friend or fellow racer you might not have access to it when you need to. Alignment bars are better, sometimes only one hood needs to be aligned - plus you may be able to do it without loosening the brush hood screws. In extreme cases you might only need to remove the brush screw, remove it out of the way and enlarge the hole a little plus you might find a deep socket (5mm I think) to fit the spring post. Most of the good dynos are out of reach pricewise, but the cheaper versions or even the motor checkers can provide somewhat close results of a motor's potiential power output.

First tests I did on motors I have (2 standard motors) showed they made better power (rpm/torque) but several test later showed a drop in the rpm range - below the MS2. Same thing was posted by other racers on another site. Seems the .290 comm diameter produces a little higher rpm, even with good brushes but when turing comm to a race diameter of .288 to .285 it reduces the rpm levels, torque remained pretty much the same. Key for competitive racing seems to be gearing up 1-2 teeth with this motor from what was used with a MS2. I'm wondering too if this is a production problem or really what the motor is going to be like overal. I'll have a better idea after Sunday just how better the motor is.

[adam lancia]

4.5mm socket on the spring post.

[highroller]

For some of the items check a few online sites like Tower and Stormer Hobbies there are a few small specialty sites like RC4Less, Left Hander RC that are more oval influence but still carry some of the items. Plus RC4Less has brushes in bulk that are cheaper.

Spring post tool, made by Trinity, Niftech, Racers Edge, Integy
Alignment bar (allowed you to align each brush hood separately vs the 180 degree type) Niftech, Racers Edge (9.95 I think at Stormer), Irrgang Racing and RC4less.
Seen where a simple setup using a DVM (digital volt meter) coil of wire, slave motor (27turn armature installed in a modified can, with endbell set to zero degree) could be used to check the amp draw of a motor. I believe it was on the Deco software site aka Fantom Page. You might have to be a registered member to get access to information.