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View Full Version : Really, Really bad XXXT rear shocks.


rcracer_xxxt_futaba
06-26-2001, 07:29 PM
I have had some really bad shock problems with my XXX-T lately. Here's What I have on them: Treaded shock bodies, titanium shock shafts, MIP blue O-rings, SILVER springs! 35wt oil and the setup is on the bottom its inside and the top its 1 away from the inside. If I drop the car from 8 in it will bottom out. When I rebuild my shock I let the shock oil in the shock bodie sit for about 12 hrs so all the air bubbles are gone and when I put the piston it its 1/2in away from from the shock cartrige then I screw it on till it stops, then I put a towel on the shock and compress it till its about 1/3of an inch away from botteming out and then I tighten it with my RPM tools and its air free! but it still bottems out at 8 inches.

nsane
06-26-2001, 07:57 PM
Thats not neccessarily a problem, you are dropping without forward motion which is part of the problem, if you were jumping the truck, it would have more forward motion than downward force and it wouldn't neccessarily bottom out.

Right now the entire force of the car is moving straight down so you aren't really "jump testing" the shocks :)

william2001
06-26-2001, 07:57 PM
ummm....not sure what your problem is there but I would suggest digging out your manual and following the instructions to the letter when you bleed your shocks. You don't need to wait that long for the bubbles to rise either, pour the oil slowly and there won't be many air bubbles to begin with. This is about a 30 second job. The stock setup with the #56 pistons (red) and 30wt. oil won't bottom out from 8 inches if you do this right. And stick with the pink springs in back (and red fronts), the stock setup is actually pretty decent, I've won plenty of stock truck A-mains with it against some really good drivers.

XXXER
06-27-2001, 02:07 PM
Here is Matt Francis' way of bleeding shocks: Fill to the bottom of the threads, then, with shaft pulled out, screw on all the way, then back out 2 turns, push shaft all the way in, and tighten.

I have used that way forever, and it is excellent, but your bottoming out problem, sounds like your spring may be too soft, stick with pink, and go back to 30wt juice.

You may not be bottoming out while driving too, you know, just try this: Take some WD-40, and shine up your chassis, take a few laps, like you normally would, and bring it back in, see where it hits, and then try to find out why, and how you can fix it.

FactoryTeam Guy wannabe
06-27-2001, 02:15 PM
Hey I would just check the ride hight of the truck when you drop it with a battery pack and a motor in of course, from about a foot off the ground, when the truck settles are the drive shafts parallel with the ground... if they arnt put them that way and then check if it still bottoms out. I would do this first before changing your springs or oil.... also your front arms should be parallel with the ground after dooing this also.

rcracer_xxxt_futaba
06-27-2001, 06:42 PM
william2001, the stock setup is really bad on my track. The only reason I had the Silver springs was cause I was testing it. I normaly run ornge springs up front and red in the rear. with 32.5 weight in the front and 27.5 in the rear.

william2001
06-27-2001, 08:57 PM
What's your track like? Just curious. Did this problem with your shocks just start? (I'm assuming it was OK at one time.....)

losifreak2004
06-28-2001, 12:08 AM
There is no way your truck should be bottoming out from eight inches. I can drop my truck from two feet and it doesn't bottom out.

Where is your ride height? Can you feel anything wrong with the shocks?