some advice please

[tom losi]

i have got a xxxt mf2 with a gm v4 esc, no reverse. 14t limit i think and i bought a 14t gt3 turbo lrp motor. the pinion gear is 19 tooth and the spur is 86 tooth. the problem is that the positive side of the motor get extremly hot. melting the solder off the motor. would a simple change of the tooth size help this? or is the problem with the esc. thanks.

[Prelude14WRX]

If it is a heat issue....then your motor would be cookin and your esc would burn your fingers if you touched it. If it is...gear down in your pinion gear size or get a spur gear with more teeth.

It could also be that you do not have any capacters on your motor controlling the current flow.

[tom losi]

yeah my motor gets really hot but i don't think the esc gets really hot, not sure. it has plastic shell. how would i intsall a capacitor

[semore]

I would also solder a diode to the motor, that should help keep the ESC cooler and help with the motor also.

[SquirrelNutz]

for me, brushed motors get warm and the esc's should stay cool. brushless the motors are cool and the esc's get warm.

if you are running on a flat surface and this is happening then you are definately running too fast of a gearing.

when regearing, keep this in mind- for every 1 tooth change on a pinion gear it is equal to 2 teeth on a spur. So, if you want speed, dial in for performance on a pinion and then fine tune with a spur.

if you are running on grass, dirt, etc... keep in mind that will take more torque for the motor to get the truck moving. more heat is normal however, nothing should be getting too hot. like above, you should be gearing down for torque to compensate.

[Grizzbob]

All true, & also, are you using connectors on your car or are you hard-wiring everything(or something inbetween)? If you have connectors, that can also affect how much heat is generated when your car runs(ESPECIALLY if those connectors are cheap ones like the bullet connectors that come with some budget motors &/or battery connectors like the ones you see on Tamiya cars all the time, which we now just call Tamiya connectors). Those kinds of connectors have VERY high electrical resistance, which when voltage & a high amp draw is applied(like you'll get from a 14 turn motor), they'll generate a LOT more heat than hard-wiring everything or using low-loss connectors will, & if it gets bad enough, then you can melt the solder from the motor tabs(I know because I've done it when I was new to racing & still used those kinds of connectors). If you can let us know how your wiring is set up, that can help us get you better sorted out to reduce the excess heat.... :cool:

[Y2KGTP]

Losi recommends 21/86 in the manual for a 14T to start....19/86 I think would be undergeared slightly......strange it heats up so much

[GuyIsDamGood]

I think it`s your Gearing. Install a smaller Pinion and it should run cooler.

I also use a Futaba MC330CR ESC(with Bullet Connectors) and a 13-Turn Reedy Ti Worlds Edition Motor in My TT-01 and TB Evo 4.....I`ve never had a problem with the wires or connectors heatin up.

Take Care.

[tom losi]

yeah it is all soldered straight from the esc and deans clips used for battery etc. i think i might have found out what might have cause the problem, tell me if this sounds right. the little spring thing that holds the brush up against the com was not very tight and causeing it to spark a lot.

but the heat issue is the last of my problems now as i think esc or my receiver or both have crapped them selves. it just starts driving itself when it gets about 10metres away from me. and is also not going no where near as good as it used to. really annoying. i don't want to fork out heaps of money for a new esc. :mad: