New Motor Advise...

[Bugs Buggy]

I'm thinking about getting a new brushed Mod motor for my truck(I don't have the $$ to get a brushless system yet..I needed to spend $$ on my real car..DOH!) due to the extensive maintenace some of my other motors require (see my other thread regarding 'making mod motors run longer between comm cuts..').

My Cobalt 10X2 is simply too much motor for my FT T4. I have to set my GTX to 5 or 6 just to keep it somewhat drivable, and it's still a handfull! My Orion Revolution 13X2 has very good torque and pulling power, but not enough RPM for the straight..(It works better with my B4). My Reedy TI Worlds 12X2 seems pretty good as far as RPM goes. It has less torque than the Orion, but it's moves my T4 very quickly and it's easier to control vs having the Cobalt in it...

So I want something with similar performace to the Reedy...

I'm thinking either an Orion Revolution 11X2 or a Checkpoint 12X2. Would those be close to the Reedy as far as performance??

I Like the Orion because it's fairly easy to service and the brushes are inexpensive...sodering the wires to it are a pain though :mad:

I've never used a Checkpoint motor before... has anyone else here used them? Are they easy to work on? Do they last as long between comm cuts and brush changes as O'Donnell claims? I like the fact that they have sodering tabs that are easier to work with...

Any advise would be greatly appreciated!

:cool:

Bugs

[highroller]

Since the motors on power response is related to the number or turns and winds it has by switching to a motor that is different should make the on power response easier to manage. The is no need to buy a compete new motor if you have some experience tearing down and rebuilding modified. What I do and many modified racers do, is when we are not sure of what turn and wind will work on a particular track is to buy a couple of complete motors mostly doubles plus a couple of extra replacement armatures in single and triple winds then somewhat tailor the motor power to track. So what you could possibly do is purchase an armature say from a 10x3 up to a 14x1 by adding more wire either to the turns or winds you are smooth the power curve a little without sacrificing overal top speed. While the three major motor companies Trinity-Epic, Reedy- Yokomo, Orion/Peak -TOP may only offer single and doubles winds many of the aftermarket builders will have motor or armatures in more varieties and sometimes they are cheaper.

[Bugs Buggy]

Well, I'm getting an armature from Team Brood... an 11X3. I was going to get it for my Orion, but I had some issues with it tonight (spring / brush issues.. it also looks like a thin rubber piece/ seal is being stripped from the top bearing..) and am changing my order to a Cobalt armature. I think the Orion, between the sodering and the fancy springs and such, is just too complex for "MR Knuckle-Fingers" :D

Hopefully the 11X3 will be pretty decent...should be quick, but easier to handle..

Has anyone tried the Epic Shock or Cobalt 2?? I've heard that the big heatsink / endbell doesn't really do all that much and the comm and brush wear is similar to that of a standard Cobalt... Is this true?? My Reedy and my Cobalt do get a bit warm in my T4 (The Reedy in my B4 isn't too bad...)..would a Cobalt 2 or Shock motor run cooler in my truck...thus reducing comm wear?? Sodering on the Shock / Cobalt 2 can be a pain, but I've seen people use battery bars to remedy this issue...

:cool:

Bugs

[highroller]

The heatsink does make the Cobalt run a little cooler. But key is to gear motor correctly. Since stadium trucks are a bit heavier, tires are wider the motor would need to be geared differently 1-3 teeth lower than when it's used in buggy or try reducing the timing a couple of degrees when using it in stadium truck. Larger spur may also help - using the same numeric ratio but with a larger spur allows motor to spin up smoothly. Don't throw all these things at it at once, try dropping a teeth until you get the best acceleration/speed - try a larger spur next but the same numeric gear ratio where you got the best speeds and then try reducing the timing - if results are good but speed is a little off - increase the pinion size by a tooth.

Unless there is a noticeable decrease in speed, I don't consider the temperature as an issue - no two motors ever end up at the same temperatures at the end of a race or run. Only when there is issues of wear(brush or motor wire discolored), extreme motor temperatures and decline in performance half way through a race that I am concerned. You can't maintain good motor performance and obtain less wear, you have to trade one for the other.