Getting the most speed out of my B4?

[KSUWildcatFan]

This is technically the first kit I've ever built, but I feel I did at least an "average" job with it..

It's fairly quick, but I wouldn't mind getting more power out of it (heh).

I guess it would make the most sense to upgrade my radio/receiver before doing anything (I stole the radio I'm currently using from another vehicle that I had sitting around), but I don't know. Here are my specs:

1) Associated B4 Team buggy
2) Novak Cyclone TC ESC
3) Trinity SpeedGems Extreme 10T double modified motor
4) Futaba T2PC AM radio (lame, I know)
5) Futaba FP-R102JE (also lame..)
6) JR Z590M Torque Race servo (metal gear)
7) Epic 3000mah NIMH 6-cell batteries (3x)

Anyway, that's it. It seems to run pretty well, but I'm always looking for tips on improving it.

Oh, and one last question..

I had a bit of trouble getting my pinion gear aligned with my spur gear in order for them to mesh correctly and to maximize the output of the motor. It seems to be alright now, but it doesn't sound quite right. What's the easiest way to get these two synched up and working optimally?

Any hints/tips/advice/whatever is, of course, appreciated.

:)

-Jordan

[KSUWildcatFan]

Also, what would be some readily-available "slick" type of tires that wouldn't get torn up too badly driving on asphalt? I do a lot of my driving just in front of my house and the nubby rear tires just get trashed after even just one power slide. I've got a pair of "slicks" that work great, but I don't know where I'd get more. Suggestions?

[microrcdude]

proline makes street tires for the buggies, check them out.

and to get more speed, re-build that motor

[Dr_Isotope]

Try some ProLine Dirt Hawgs. A great onroad/offroad tire, in a good "basher" compound. If you want ridiculous speed, just buy it. I put a Novak GTB w/ Velociti 6.5 brushless in my T3 truck for Xmas... even running around a 17:1 final (12/88 gearing), it still has enough speed to traction flip the truck repeatedly. Thanks to the silly low gearing, half a turn on the slipper lets me pull wheelstands all the way across the yard.

[highroller]

Get an assortment of pinion gears, look on AE site for suggestions as a starting point. Stock spur is a 81 for competitive racing I start with a 83 for stock and 87 with mod motors. Basically to set motor so it runs good start with Trinity 4380 they are milder in terms of wear but still make good power, for springs try a Purple on pos, Red on negative. Basic electronics are fine if you need the manual one can be downloaded from Novak's site or check CompetitionX (www.competitionx.com) they also have many downloadable info. Depending on what type of 3000,s those are you probably will get better results from newer packs (GP3300 are going to be cheaper, alot moe durable).
Yes a street type tire is going to be better, also look at the Duratrax street tires - get a set of rims while you are purchasing the tires.

If you spend a little extra time in assembling the kit, polishing kingpins, testing fitting parts kit should come together with a minimum of drag on rotating parts. For myself spending an extra day testing fitting and polishing ends with a vehicle that smooth operating and also a tad faster. Cars also handles better as there is no binding or drag.

Normally I set pinion by feel, set it so teeth are close then rotate spur to determine how much resistance or drag there is - then loosen motors mounting screws backing off a very small amount (paper thickness) tighten one screw to determine if there is less resistance (freer feel) but you are still maintaining good teeth mesh between pinion and spur. I don't use the sheet of paper technique that would require too many and don't always have one at the track.

[KSUWildcatFan]

I kind of screwed up, at least with the ESC, because I overpaid (big time) for it, as I got it at my local hobby store. I knew Cyclones were good (back in the day), but I didn't know they were long gone (discontinued) as I've been out of the hobby for several years.

Anyway, for now, I'm not "competiting". I went out to the dirt track the other day and found that I could barely even keep the car on the track without wrecking it. I had to go really slow to do that.

Would newer batteries make a big difference in power output or just longer run times?

Also, since I KNOW my radio/receiver suck, shouldn't that be my top priority in replacing? It's a crappy AM radio and the range isn't very good.

Thanks.
-Jordan

[highroller]

Unless you are getting back into it with the intent of doing some racing the newer items (batteries, radio, esc) wouldn't make that much of a noticeable difference it all you were doing was bashing. What I did and still do on some occassions is start with some basic things, get the feel for vehicle, adjust on it as much as possible, then purchase something better.
It may be a better battery pack, esc or newer radio or even a different vehicle. Plus you may also need a better charger and some of the other support equipment to properly maintain the newer cells, it's not a must have but does help in keeping batteries performing consistant use after use.

[KSUWildcatFan]

I bought myself a Duratrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Pulse charger: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXUF45

I think most of the things in my car currently (motor, esc, the car itself) are all fairly decent, at least in terms of "bashing". The Radio/Receiver are downright horrid. The batteries are decent, but still probably aren't anywhere near as nice as some of the newer things out these days.

I'll be the first to admit that my knowledge of RC stuff is fairly limited these days, so perhaps what I have isn't nearly as great as I think...

[nicholcgn]

A good mid range radio makes the cars dirve better in the track. Something like a jrxs3 or mx3 does not need crystals. As far as speed you need to maintain the 10 turn to keep the speed up. If you are not into that then I would recommend a brushless system. I have the Novak and the LRP. I like the novak a little better for the speed controller. Like the setup of the reedy motors. The sensor plug being replacable is nice.


Not sure what you mean by power. You looking at off the line power for acceleration or do you mean power top end? The Novak systems have a good torque coming off the line. The top end can be good if geared. I recommend those because they have good customer support. There are other systems for more $ that can go oin higher cells.

[KSUWildcatFan]

I've been looking at possibly getting the XS3 Pro..What's the general opinion on that?

I've already got the JR Z590M high-torque servo and I like it. I used to have a JR controller back in the day. I'm afriad my knowledge of JR has really dwindled, however..

[702nitro]

The most noticeable difference in the pro is of course the silver metallic finish. Other features include

features

1. RS310 receiver, which is smaller than the RS300 that comes with the orig XS3
2. Adjustable throttle trigger

Thats about it unless i missed something. Its basically cosmetic upgrades

[KSUWildcatFan]

OK, so I've decided that I'm going to scrap some of the crap in my car and try to beef it up to not be such a wuss. Here's what I think needs replaced..

Transmitter/receiver (I'm looking at and will probably end up getting a JR XS3)

ESC/motor (looking at a brushless system, duh)

Batteries (my charger can't do LiPos, but if I could get a good LiPo or two and a decent charger for a reasonable price--if the performance would be that much improved--it could be a consideration later)

Upgrade pieces for the car itself (turnbuckles, etc)--I've got the "team" version..

Suggestions? I've got a tax return coming.. :D

[highroller]

Even though I've been involved in rc for many years, I at times may have a budget when purchasing something. Would I spend $400 on one charger or a third of that for 2 chargers plus a radio or couple battery packs.

While my radios are all Futaba the 3PM (119-149) vs $350 for a 3PK, the 3PM worked well even for competitive racing. The thing is if you aren't a good driver to start with no amount of equipment is going to improve it, but sometimes it is good to have so that as your skills get better you have the equipment to match.

Chargers, ESCs, batteries, radios are sold by many different manufacturers, with different features, functions and prices. While the lower priced things are more for bashers because of some limitations, the higher priced products may be a bit too overpriced with features that you'll probably not need or may wear out before they are useful to you.
Cheaper charger may have limits, only charge 6cells, 4.5 amps charge rates, may not have a discharge function or other function that might be useful to you later, there could be mid priced chargers with these features plus higher charge rates. ESC & Radios again will fall into the same the cheaper versions will have limits and high end competition may be beyond what your need are at this time and would probably be replaced with a better model.
Batteries are one of the things that allow you to pay cheaper now and still get decent results. Batteries will wear out over use, buy the cheaper sport packs or match stick packs buying one or two better packs as you level of driving or racing changes.

[KSUWildcatFan]

So are you suggesting that I should look for a cheaper/lower-end controller?

I actually had the 3PM bookmarked and that was what I was considering buying before the whole JR thing came up..

The motor/ESC are probably a necessity and some new batteries (gp3300s should be fine compared to what I have currently), and some upgrade pieces for the car (turnbuckles and the like) are also probably in.

Perhaps you're right about the radio though. Since I don't race as it is now and I need to get a lot of improvement before even considering it, perhaps a budget FM radio would be smarter for now...

[KSUWildcatFan]

I guess what it all boils down to is that I can get an XS3 for roughly $150-175 or a 3PM (or something similar) for around $125. I'd think it'd be worth the extra few bucks for the synthesized module and extra features of the XS3..

[KSUWildcatFan]

Alright, here's what I'm planning on getting, not taking the radio into consideration, as I'm still shopping...

Rims/Tires

4.79 Associated Rear Wheel 2.2 RC10B4 (2)
4.79 Associated Front Wheel 2.2 RC10B4 (2)
11.99 Pro-Line Dirt Hawg I 2.2 Front/Rear Buggy (2)
11.59 Pro-Line Dirt Hawg III 2.2 Front Buggy (2)

Lunsford Upgrades

39.89 Lunsford Racing Super Duty Turnbuckle & Pin Kit RC10B4
21.29 Lunsford Racing Titanium Hinge Pins RC10B4/T4 (10)

Pinion/Spur

3.39 Robinson Racing Pinion Gear 48P 12T
3.89 Associated Kimbrough Spur Gear 87T

Brushless combo

239.99 Novak GTB Racing Brushless System 5.5


Total:
341.61

...and I still need a radio. :(

[KSUWildcatFan]

Radio: JR XS3

Won for $140, basically brand new with two servos, the 300 receiver, and everything else what came with it originally. Not the best deal ever, but it's at least average.