custom made brushes

[Drayken D]

Let me give you a little back round first. I race a T3 on a short, tight track. My truck, no matter what motor I sure or brush combo, is still slightly slower than about 40% of the trucks. I race stock, and have very good matched batteries and everything is good to go. Well, there is a guy there that has a Dyno(spelling?) and he dyno'd my P2K and it came out with a reading of 5.1 seconds for full windout(5.1 seconds to reach top speed) I was using high silver brushes for stock motors(trinity)

Needless to say, this sucked! The longest strait takes less than that. He said he may have something, so he went to this jar of oil and pulled two brushes out. He hooked them up and Dyno'd again. About same torque, a few more RPM, but the time for top speed was now 2.4 seconds!!! I couldn't believe it, he said that should do it and charged me $5. I had already raced the 3 heats with the old brushes, and had no time to test the new ones. I took his word on the performance and got ready for the B-Main(I actually get into the A-main about %70 due to my driving, NOT the speed of my truck, but I was having a bad day, so ended in the B)

I was lined up, hoping the new brushes would help a little. Right off the start, I peeled out and almost wrecked. (slipper was not set for that much speed) I could not believe how much faster it was. It was a completely different motor. It felt like a weak modified. I had a heck of a time controlling it(was NOT used to it at all, I was used to always being slower). I finished in 4th, but know I will be in the A-Main from now on once I learn to drive with the new speed. I never knew brushes made such a difference.

I have tried about 5 different brushes and ALL of them were about the same, till I used his. He has the oil specially made, and the brushes specially made just for him. A bit expensive for brushes, but if he would have showed me a whole motor that did what mine now does, I would have bought the whole motor.

Anyone else know of people that use "home made" brushes? He said to use them till the motor runs bad, which should be about when the brushes are almost down to the springs!!! He said that I don't need to use motor spray, and do not take brushes out till they go bad. And he said he hasn't had to cut a comm for almost all summer with them! I will see if this is all true, but if it is, I hope he never moves away, LOL.

[Nairb]

Hmm...that sounds pretty interesting. I guess what he's basically doing is reducing friction by letting the brushes soak in more lubricant. I wonder what brushes he starts with and what he soaks them in...

[Drayken D]

He said they are close to the same as High silver Trinity brushes. As for the oil he soaks them in, I have no idea, it is dark greenish blue. All I know is, that my truck flies compared to how it used to run.

[nrgtrader]

Dark greenish, blue sounds like 2-stroke motor oil. Hmmm. Interesting idea. I would think that whatever the lubricant is must be fairly conductive as not to provide more resistance to the brush/comm contact.

[rc10t3racer]

Drayken,

Did you notice anything interesting about the brushes? Were they serated and did he also dremel a slot(s) or drill a hole in them? Just curious as I've been experimenting with brushes a little bit.

[Kraig]

Most of the motor manufacturers and motor builders have brushes made for them. Usually you have to purchase them in bulk, say 10,000 pair at least. You can get good quality high silver brushes from just about any of the motor companies out there, Reedy, Trinity, Putnam, Team 1, Pro-Match, Birdman just to name a few.

If you do purchase new brushes again might I suggest getting the com cut on your motor and then install the brushes. Go with a red spring on the positive and green on the negative. You will see good results from that.

[FilthyPierre]

Dark greenish blue also sounds like Simple Green! LOL Did you notice any "characteristic sassafras odour" ? ROFL

Seriously, Drayken, sounds like you need to go back to this dude and see if you can find out what it is. Maybe it has some sort of properties like comm drops, but because they soak into the brush you don't get your comm all gooped up. Interesting that he said not to use motor spray - maybe that will wash away some of the go fast formula.

Keep us posted ! :cool:

[Drayken D]

Actually the brushes were smooth(like cheap ones, lol) No grooves or slits or cuts. He does have to buy 100 at a time. He said that he shose what it is made of, but said it is very close to the trinity High silver. As for the oil, it is not something you can just buy, he has spent ALOT of time experimenting with oils and ingredients to get it just right. He said he has used stuff that accidently ate the comm right up before, lol. He has no reason to make anything up, he is not competative on the track, though he races. He does it for the love of R/C, and helps any and all at the track, a great asset to the sport. The springs I am using is the red(purple?) and green, the stock srings, BUT he tweeked them really good, so they would push ALOT harder on the brush. I did not cut the comm, because I had only 2 5 min runs on it, and it was still good to go. These brushes of his, so far, NO sign of wear on the comm at all! No need to cut it yet, amazing. If someone told me, what I am saying now, I would not believe it, but it is true. I am so amazed. I do have one question. Just incase he does not show up next season for some reason(move or other) I would like to buy some of his brushes and oil. Anyone know how long they last when being soaked. He said he never had a problem, he buys 100, then keeps them all soaked till he sells them or uses them.

[nsane]

They'd probably last quite a long time, depending on the oil, if it is thick enough to "gum up" that might cause you a problem, but I'd expect they would last a long while.

[Leet TC3]

Drayken - Something to be aware of when judging whether or not a comm needs to be trued: It is fairly easy to get a brush that causes little or no arching. If you don't have much arching, you won't have much discoloration on the comm. This sounds like it may be the case for you with the custom brushes you are using.

Keep in mind then, that even though your comm may look clean, it still may need to be trued. Any brush will cut into a comm, and all comms will need to be trued to maximize motor perfomance.

The only way to know is to run it. If you are in tune with your car, you will know if the motor is losing perfomance. Have your comm cut, and see if you notice a difference.

[JP]

Sounds like my old trick of soaking them in a container of comm drops...same exact results happen.

Did I just give away my "secret?" :D