Novak's Lead-Free Racing Solder

[TBone77]

I really like Dean's Racing Solder because of the low melting-point, but I'd rather use lead-free solder. Has anyone used Novak's Lead-Free solder? Is it as easy to work with?

[kschauwe]

63/37 has the lost melting point. Lead free has one of the highest:
* 63/37: melts between 355°-365°F
* 60/40: melts between 361°-376°F
* 50/50: melts between 368°-421°F
* lead-free solder (useful in jewelry, eating containers, and other environmental uses): melts around 490°F
Higher temps can lead too componet damage.
I use Kistler 63/37 for everything. I've tried silver bearing solder like Dean's and went back to 63/37 because it flows better. I wouldn't worry about lead in solder, unless you're going to be around molten solder 8 hours or more a day.

[losiguy1090]

Lead solder wont really do anything unless you inhale it. I just use the stuff you can buy at Ace. They sell 60/40 rosin core w/flux. For 5 bucks, you get about 5 times more solder than you do from deans.

[TBone77]

Well, not to sound like a crotchety old man, but I don't think any of us are qualified to determine what "safe amounts" are, nor are we in a position to make statements like "don't worry... a little solder won't do anything."

I don't know the answer to "how bad is it?", nor do I expect anyone else here to, either. I was just wondering if anyone had used Novak's lead-free racing solder. I have two kids that are occassionally exposed to this stuff and, if only for my own piece of mind, I'm going to use lead-free solder. The trick is finding the easiest stuff to work with.

kschauwe - thanks for the melting point figures... very interesting; appreciate it.

[giantsfan2575]

I always use Novak solder and bars with no problems yet. I can't really tell a difference between it and deans or radio shack stuff as far as strength or melting point.

[RH Customs]

I use 60/40 Kester rosin core from Fry's and works excellent. At $10 for a pound spool that is not bad and as long as you keep in something ( I keep mine in my pit box ) it won't oxidized.

RH

[beaker]

You might not know it, but lead in electronic products will soon be a thing of the past.

There are two European directives that take effect July 1, 2006.

RoHS – Restriction of Hazardous Substances
WEEE - Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment

RoHS dictates which substances cannot be in any electronic device and WEEE dictates how you dispose of those devices.

RoHS restricts more than just lead, but it is the substance that is causing the most change in the electronics-manufacturing world. Currently, it is only product sold in Europe and Japan that must be RoHS compliant, but other countries will follow soon. Plus most companies sell world-wide, so they are making all products RoHS compliant, not just what gets sold in Europe.

There has been much research done in Lead-Free soldering processes, but most people will tell you that nothing solders as well as lead. Also, lead is much cheaper than the silver used in lead-free solder – being ecologically conscience is neither easy nor cheap.

The company I work for, is switching to a lead-free solder with the following material composition:
Tin – 96.5%
Silver – 3.0%
Copper – 0.5%

This solder composition is known as SAC305. Its melting point is about 221°C. It still doesn't flow like lead solder, but it is close. The bond, however, is very strong.

The consumer or hobbyist will always be able to buy and use lead solder, but it would be wise to start learning more about lead-free solder and the techniques necessary to work with it.

[Rtsbasic]

When I got a new soldering iron, it wouldn't work nicely with my lead solder (60/40 rosin). However I can assemble batteries using lead free no problem. I have a friend thats been soldering electronics as a living for 20yrs and he has no problems with leaded stuff, but I prefer lead free for peace of mind as well. So far I've not noticed any strength difference in the bonds.