B4 looses steering with mod motor....

[Bugs Buggy]

...When I race my B4 in stock, I seem to have enough steering available with minimal push...but when I put my Orion 13-2 motor in it, I get a ton of push. I'm running silver springs on all 4 corners, running 30wt oil on all 4 corners too. The shocks are all in the 2nd mounting hole (middle) on all 4 corners and my dual rate is set at maximum. My endpoints are around 110 and the battey is all the way forward. I'm using tires that the other racers use at my track.. ...

I'm stumped... Other than the car going much faster (which may be an obvious reason the car is pushing), what more can be done to remedy this when I run Mod??? I guess I can change the springs to greens in front and blues in the rear, but I'm not sure that would do any good.... I end up putting the mod motor back in my T4 because I seem to have more steering with that.....

Any suggestions??

:cool:

Bugs

[adrcracing]

Find a way to put a little extra weight in the front tires, but keep them balanced.

[highroller]

Since you are going faster, carrying more speed than you did in stock the chassis requires a different setup. Go a little softer on shock oil and springs, find a tire that gives a little more grip and try adjusting on the camber. Once you find the right shock spring and oil compress the front suspension as if you were going into a turn, adjust the camber rod in the position that gives tire surface more contact. Going straight you need less tire contact with surface, more tire contact when turning. Also you want chassis a little softer to react quicker or allow chassis to roll quickly to transfer weight to the side that requires the weight. When slowing for turns the front should nose down - tranferring weight to front - camber should change providing more tire contact with ground. Then as you get back on throttle the rear should squat a little as weight is transferred to rear - but should very mininal without loosing complete front end bite. The purpose is to keep the weight balanced a little more to front. Watch a video of a good handling offroad buggy and you will see the subtle changes in how chassis moves during different suspension travel on a track - also the amount of roll is different with the type of surface. Chassis may require more roll on loose, loamy tracks than it does on hard packed smooth surfaces.
I normally start with 25-30 wt oil in front, and 5 wt heavier in rear, use #1 piston all around, with green springs in front with blue or red springs in the rear. Tie rod and rear spacer are normally set according to manual. Left front made require a positive static camber setting (top of tire leans out) while the right may require a negative camber setting (top of tire leans in).

Since you may end up running the same vehicle in two different classes make up a setup sheet so you can keep track of the different setups you use. You can download one on Associated website or make up you own using your computer with Word or Excel. Another thing that may help get you dialed quicker is ask the racers at your track that seem to get their vehicles dialed what they are using as a setup - right down the information or get them to help you. You may need to purchase shock oil, the spring set for B4 and may a different set of tires. Just remember though the exact same setup may not respond the same due to different styles or ability.

[MattHiggins]

I almost always go with a stiffer setup (front and rear) when I go from stock to mod. For me, this holds true for off-road and on-road, but try running a softer setup up front and see how you like it. There is no universally right or wrong setup; what is “right” is what works for you.

I am willing to bet, however, that you are just carrying too much speed into the corner and don't need to change a lot of things yet.

I would try dialing out dual rate. With that much steering throw the tires could be plowing. And, I always recommend going back to the factory setup--it rocks. Again, in my opinion, tires are the main tuning variable, everything else if just fine tuning. Most pro drivers have one setup and other than tires, they don’t change too much.

[GladwinJay]

Less aggressive rear tires can also help sometime with center rotation.

[gizmoguy303]

Running mod requires a different driving style than running stock. Many racers that have run stock all the time and then step up to mod will find themselves going wide in turns and wondering why their car isn't rotating in the middle of turns anymore.

The biggest and easiest adjustment to make when going from stock to mod is dialing in drag-brake. This can be done either on the ESC itself or by using your radio. I like to use my radio because I can easily adjust it in practice depending on how our drag-brake I need. Go to your throttle neutral setting on your radio (on the M8, go to the TRIM function and press the * button to toggle steering/throttle trim) and move it down. On my M8 I usually start out with -10 and adjust from there. This will automatically apply brake when you let off the throttle. Use enough drag-brake and your mod motor will start steering like a stocker again!

Don't use drag-brake as a crutch for a bad setup. I would look for a factory setup that is for a track similar to yours and start out with that.