Solder for side by side packs

[FilthyPierre]

I've just purchased a few packs of Fantom matched 3000 cells and need to assemble them. I was just going to use normal 60/40 Rosin-cored solder (that's 60 Tin, 40 Lead) but the instructions that came with my Deans Speed Jig say that "ordinary" solder can cause a chemical reaction that will weaken the joint, and that I should use (of course) Deans Ultra Solder (or whatever it's called) because it has 2 percent silver. It doesn't say what other metal percentages are in it. None of the electronics stores in my area have silver solder, but I managed to find one that was 18 percent Tin, 81.1 percent lead (!!!!) and 1.9 percent Silver. It's labelled as "Aluminium Solder".

So what's the general opinion, is the Speed Jig instructions just FUD, or is it true? If true, what does eveybody else use (alloy percentages, so I can go look for some). Or can I just use the aluminium solder?

Jeep/Grizz/Rail any ideas ?

Thanks,

FP

[Grizzbob]

The stuff that Deans told you is really just hype. There's nothing wrong in using standard 60/40 Rosin Core solder(that's all I ever use). There may technically be a chemical reaction in using normal solder, but it's nothing to worry about. As long as you use a good iron & take all the neccessary steps, you'll have a very strong solder joint that'll take any punishment you can give it(I even use the 60/40 at work, except when I have to use a lead-free solder due to EPA regulations). So, if you have some of the Radio Shack solder already, feel free to use it.... :)

[jeepinator]

Yep, I have been using the Radio Shack stuff for a loooong time.
I did use some "premium" solder recently, and it was 2% silver. I may have noted a slight improvement in how the solder flowed and it seemed to joint up a little better.
Or, I may have just wanted to as I payed way too much for it ;)
For the difference in price, go with cheapo Radio Shack stuff.

BTW, I have never seen any sort of "chemical reaction" take place using standard rosin core solder. I have, however, seen serious corrosion with acid core solder ... so, this may have been what they meant. But, I have not seen acid core solder since I was in electronics in high school, so their statement is just a tad misleading, but possible.

[FilthyPierre]

Thanks guys, I figured as much. I've never had any sort of trouble with standard 60/40 rosin core, and have a good temp-controlled station and know how to solder pretty well. I'll stick with my current solder.

Thanks.

[Grizzbob]

Same here, Jeep, the only acid flux I see nowadays is in a paste thaat helps with heavy duty jobs, like for the oil probe flanges that I have to seal when I install a new connector on them. They're so hard to solder that I have to use the paste(& the lead-free solder) & a O2/Gas torch to get the solder to flow & seal it up, bloody thing takes a half hour just to cool down after I'm done(& then before I finish reassembly I have to apply some epoxy on the other end to seal that side, which takes some 12 hours to cure). And with all that, I actually like those oil probes better than the others I work on..... :)

[Ras Thavas]

I read that stuff also about the chemical reaction. I am using Reedy silver battery bars. I was looking at K-Mart one day and saw some solder that is 96% tin and 4% silver(or it might be 97%/3%, hey I'm getting old, memory is fading...) I picked some up and it works great. It needs a higher temp to melt which was a problem before I bought my Hako, but now I just set the temp to 800F and I have no problem. I have also noticed that some of my older solder joints made with 60/40 have de-soldered during some of the hotter (90+) degree days that we raced this summer, but none of the joints made with the tin did that.

[Grizzbob]

That's only natural, Ras. When one type of solder has a higher melting temp., it will stand up to higher temps before it melts, & 60/40 solder has a medium to low melting temp, so it's easier to use. However, when you use more heat(even when you don't think you need it), you do get a stronger joint, so if you used the higher temp setting on your Hakko for 60/40, then it would likely hold up better than before. That's why we recommend you use a good, high power iron with a good tip on it, the extra heat(& heat transfer) helps you get it done faster, & the joint is tougher too, so it'll hold up better in extreme heat..... :)

[Ras Thavas]

Yeah Grizz, I found out that mix had a higher melting point. It is amazing what you can learn by typing in "solder melting points" on a search engine. :)