Minimum battery for stock racing

[24601]

What do you think would be the minimum battery capacity for stock racing with say a P2K or Green Machine. I am thinking about getting a B3 for my local track, but modified racing is just too expensive and too complicated. WOuld 1500 be enough. Please be honest, I know I don't need 2000 or 3000.

[Spinner]

1500 would get you out there,,,,, but honestly you would need at LEAST a cheap 2000 pack...... if you want to get out there cheaply, buy a pair or MAXX PAXX, they are matched 1900s that are relatively CHEAP ($45/pair) and are matched cells..... they will serve you well!

[Grizzbob]

Yeah, you can make run time on 1500s, but it'll be closer than you'd think, & your pack's voltage will have dropped further than it would if you were using a higher capacity pack. That's why most stock racers will use at least 2000s, & most use 2400s & SMH 3000s...... :)

[RustlerBoy]

yeah, get your self some high quality 2400 batts

[JonBoy]

I bought a sanyo 2400 unmatched pack it works great for stock racing.

[24601]

Her we go again..
"Spend all the money in the world."
I thought the whole point of stock was to keep the price down for entry level guys. If I have to spend 50 or more on every battery pack, then forget it.
This is why I went nitro in the first place.

[Jason_R]

Wait. Unmatched 2400's aren't that expensive. I paid $29.99 for unmatched 2400 Sanyo stick pack. These work great for stock racing. I think you could get by maybe with 1500 but i would say buy some 1700 instead. We have guys at our track that have a like 4 1700 packs and they do just fine. These batterys are pretty inexpensive. And how much does a quart of fuel coast? Around 10 bux, throw in a few more dollars and you could buy a 1700 which would last longer the the fuel.

[chem]

I fairly new to this hobby. I run a 1700 pack for stock racing TC3. I was able to eeek my way int the A main a few weeks ago but all the other cars seemed incredibly faster. Is it my battery pack. Would going to say a 2000 or 2400 pack really increase my speed that much more.

[Grizzbob]

Well, your pack could be playing a small role in your car's performance. It is true that as a battery discharges, when it's getting closer to the last of its capacity, the voltage it puts out starts to drop more & more, which does affect your car's speed(in electric motors, voltage= horsepower). When your 1700 pack is running near the end of a race, it has less left in it than batteries with more capacity(like 2000s, 2400s, & 3000s), so its voltage drops off more & faster, causing the loss of performance(which with higher capacity packs becomes less noticeable). Also, the quality of your motor(including how it's tuned, it's design & condition), the connectors you use & the kind of ESC you use make a diffference. Certain connectors have higher resistance than others(Tamiya's are definitely among the worst of them all, while Sermos/Anderson Powerpoles & Deans Ultras are among the best), & different ESC's have varying amounts of internal resistance, which can add up when you combine it all, & when its a lot it can noticeably affect your motor's performance(& any motor will feel slow if it's not geared properly for your track's layout & condition). That sort of thing is what stock racing is all about, the fastest guys do their best to minimize resistance & make sure they have very good motors & the best batteries that they can afford..... :)

[ProjectTwin]

Batteries are your car's fuel. You wouldn't buy cheap fuel for your nitro vehicles, you want good quality stuff with the correct nitro and oil content.

Batteries may be more at first, but once the charge (or your cars fuel) is gone, you can charge the batt and have more fuel. With nitro, once that quart or gallon is gone, you have to drop more money to get the car to move.

Electric is more initially, but the cost savings over time more than make up for what you would spend buying nitro.

If your going to buy batts, buy the best cells you can. Not just for the racing aspect, but for the fact that there are times that you just want to go out and have fun. Higher capacity cells will let you have more fun, longer. For racing, those same cell will give you longer run times, more power off the line, out of the corners, and be consistent throughout the race.

Batteries are more of an investment at first, but if properly maintained, are cheaper in the long run.

Jason

[KilRuf]

Well I use matched 1700's for my T3 truck with a P2K pro with no problems. If you are looking to stock race, just get the highest you can afford. But like what has been mention here, get some cheap 2400's. Or get some matched Integy 2400 batts for just under $40. Go to speedtechrc for them. It'll be the cheapest way to go with some performance. You can also get some matched 3000's for just $45 there too. A side note... I race my yokomo touring car in a stock race with my 2000 matched packs and a P2K pro with 102/35 gearing. 4 minute race. I had 999mah left in the battery. I had even more with my matched 2400's! So what does that tell you! But I'm sure it would be even less with a 5 minute race and/or off-road. Try those batteries out. Can't go wrong! :)

Mike

[ 09-16-2001: Message edited by: KilRuf ]

[24601]

OK, so can someone actually show me where there are 2400 for $29? The cheapest I have found is $50.

[cabbynate]

www.promatchracing.com.Click (http://www.promatchracing.com.Click) on mounthly specials.
2400's for $29.95. ;)

[cabbynate]

www.promatchracing.com (http://www.promatchracing.com)

Try this one