Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v2.0

[Grant Tokumi]

So how did the race go today? Did you at least get some racing action in there?

[evaderstman]

I figured i would post this here to tell you guys. I went out today, and raced the buggy for the 3rd time, and it was a big trophy race where 1-5th got a trophy, and people from Nc, and Sc attended. Anyway i raced sportsman, and qualified 11 out of 11. I ended up in 4th place though so now i have a cool trophy to show for it.

[Fluke]

back from another bash

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/rc/ff7ae687.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/rc/fe0db3a3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/rc/83c12d2c.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/rc/1b77baa9.jpg

the Cave
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/rc/6845f701.jpg

Welcome to da suck
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/rc/5d07d3e7.jpg

[Karadjas]

That shock doesn't look too bad, it could be just some displaced innards. Then again, it could be BAR (beyond any repair) :D

Anyone know how a Sirio .27 standard does against a Wasp .28? I got one in a trade and a bashmate is getting a Wasp soon because he got sick of my Delta Force beating his Hyper 4 port. I'd love to see his face when he shows up with his new powerhouse and still get beat :D

[HPI rally racer]

race was most dissapointing, for there was no race at all..i had drove out there after a 1 hour drive, weather wasnt too great it had rained and was raining so barley anyone there, no race..then im like well can i practice here since i came all the way? they were *******s and said i needed a member ship which costs $20 if u want to play..i understand city needs it or whatever but u know ive came all the way here, i wouldnt be coming enough to get my money's worth for my member ship cuz it's far and like imean i came all the way out there and they dont even let me do a couple laps? i even said heres $5, would that cover today? nope u need a $20 membership..when i got home i was pissed and all so i decided to bash my buggy a bit..i turn on the radio, nothing moves..i idioticly left the car on and the battery was dead..i guess i just wasnt ment to race that day lol..im 15, new to racing, have enough trouble just getting out there and my first "race" experience was a most dissapointing one..theres another race this saturday, but i dunno if i even want to go out there this time now..what do u guys think?

[Karadjas]

$20 for how long?
My local onroad track need $110 for a year and they barely make ends meet, with floodlights and all.

[evaderstman]

Tracks cost a lot to maintain if all you have to do is pay 20 for a membership to practice then that is a great deal. That is what i pay for a day of racing. Also your first day racing always sucks once you go a few times you will get in a groove, and be set.

[HPI rally racer]

it's $20 for the year..it may be cheap but im not going to go there that often, there building another track which is half the distance, i'll be going there

[Karadjas]

Whatever makes you feel better, $20 is very cheap but could go towards fuel at the new track.

I got a call from a HS owner tonight, telling me there was a gathering of racers and HS owners (I skipped a few races and didn't know) and they were looking for me. When I went there I was immediately fronted by two HS owners.

Thing is, I'm leaving in September to go to Uni (London School of Economics, thank you very much :D ). One, whose shop is right next to the onroad track, wants to keep my Rally Game Lightning and my BL TB02 in his window while I'm away. The other one wants my T-Maxx and my H7 Pro-R for his window.

I'm split. If I give them to be displayed, everyone will know exactly what I run and how. I wouldn't like that for my T and my Lightning, not after the months of thinking and wrenching that went into them. Then again, what gives more bragging rights than having 80% of your r/cs displayed in shop windows?

I think I'll ask them how much they're willing to pay, maybe that'll help me make up my mind! :D :D

[RCfroman]

Hi, I've been thinking about getting one of these buggies but I'm trying to make up my mind... How much more power does the hyper 7 pbs with the .28 engine in it have as opposed to the rtr version? I don't know what the advantages are of some of the hyper 7's over others.

[eb4flys]

Thing is, I'm leaving in September to go to Uni (London School of Economics, thank you very much :D ).


Dont do it...take them with you and race while your there :p

[Karadjas]

RCfroman, I haven't driven or seen a .28 H7 go, so I can't comment on that. PBS versions are supposedly easier to setup than C-hubs (I prefer C-hub) and C-hub are allegedly more durable than PBS. I have yet to see either break and I use to race with hacks driving both versions of H7s.

eb4flys, I wish I could take all my r/c stuff. I don't think the luggage weighing lady at the airport will like me when I show up 200lbs overweight. Maybe just my Microsizer :D

[longcaceres]

Hi Guys, I am new here. just got my hyper tq kit this week. I am starting to build the kit tonight. Any set-up sheet you can lend me for racing. I will run on an indoor track with 3ple jumps. Thank you in advance. I will appreciate any help.

[Karadjas]

Welcome to the club longcaceres! Unfortunately my setup is not recorded anywhere, I just adjust as I see proper. I can throw a few numbers off the top of my head in here though:
Diffs: Fr 5000wt/Ctr Torsen/Rear 1000wt
Shocks: Fr 40wt/Rear 60wt
Downtravel just barely above full droop
Ride height at level axles
Sway bars both ends
17* caster
A touch of rear bias on the brakes
I find Hobao = tires to be a good all-rounder on dirt. Probably wouldn't last too long onroad though.

This is a bit oversteery, especially on the throttle. Very controllable sliding though, unlike any other buggy I've ever driven, even center torsen ones.

What engine are you putting in your buggy? You know we need to see some pics when you're done, it's the way things are done :D

[Karadjas]

I forgot... I don't know whether you're new to r/c, but remember to use threadlock on metal to metal threads!

[longcaceres]

thank you :) I will consider your set-up. I am running a picco .26 & a .21 os v spec for racing.

[longcaceres]

I am using 7000 diff oil. how thight should it feel to turn the center out drive shaft by hand? It seems like i can not turn it by hand. why?

[Karadjas]

It should be pretty thick, but not locked. Try getting some L wrenches through the outdrives and give it a little nudge. Don't try too hard, if the outdrives don't turn with just a little twist, it means there's definitely something wrong and you should tear it down and rebuild it.

[Grant Tokumi]

race was most dissapointing, for there was no race at all..i had drove out there after a 1 hour drive, weather wasnt too great it had rained and was raining so barley anyone there, no race..then im like well can i practice here since i came all the way? they were *******s and said i needed a member ship which costs $20 if u want to play..i understand city needs it or whatever but u know ive came all the way here, i wouldnt be coming enough to get my money's worth for my member ship cuz it's far and like imean i came all the way out there and they dont even let me do a couple laps? i even said heres $5, would that cover today? nope u need a $20 membership..when i got home i was pissed and all so i decided to bash my buggy a bit..i turn on the radio, nothing moves..i idioticly left the car on and the battery was dead..i guess i just wasnt ment to race that day lol..im 15, new to racing, have enough trouble just getting out there and my first "race" experience was a most dissapointing one..theres another race this saturday, but i dunno if i even want to go out there this time now..what do u guys think?
Thats too bad you didn't get to race. FWIW, I have to pay $10 a race to race at my track. Persevere! Get some race action next time.

[Quinton]

Well, I guess its a good thing you didn't pay then. I usually try to start up my nitro's before leaving the house to find any of those probs ahead of time. Just a little fyi for next time.

[Karadjas]

I do all my prep work in the week. For instance, I may be going bashing tomorrow at an offorad track. I tried out my Delta Force and works great, so I'll use that if anything happens while breaking in my Sirio. 2 charged receiver packs, 2 charged glow ignitors and an alcaline one, 5-6 glow plugs... Only a chassis cracked in half will stop me :D

[HPI rally racer]

haha u think i should stock up on glowplugs and batteries? i have one of each and i think i mineaswell get a glowplug because i'll eventually be needing one..but a reciever pack?

[Fluke]

receiver packs can really go out like a glow plug.some pro's bring along 2 identical cars just in case

[Grant Tokumi]

haha u think i should stock up on glowplugs and batteries? i have one of each and i think i mineaswell get a glowplug because i'll eventually be needing one..but a reciever pack?
You can make the call on what you think you'll need a spare of. Instead of purchasing a spare receiver pack, perhaps taking along the 4 cell AA receiver battery holder (including the Hyper 7 mount for it) is sufficient as a spare. With racing experience, you'll figure out what you feel is important to have with you as spares and tools. Some the strangest things happen while racing.

[Karadjas]

Well, I've been in R/C for what seems like centuries and I always take the weirdest stuff with me. One piece pipes, lots of fuel line, extra engine, extra wing, extra motorsaver, servos, battery packs, shocks, wheels, wheel nuts, body mounts, definitely glow plugs and glow ignitors... I most probably wouldn't buy these just for the sake of taking them along if I didn't already have them. I lost lots of wheel nuts in the past, but I've never gone around the track kicking dirt around looking for my engine :D It feels great when others have to stop playing because of something like a busted shock and you know you can just undo 2 screws and be off again, even if it's just a silver H7 shock instead of the darker much thicker Pro one.

I may take along 2 charged receiver packs, but the AA holder never leaves my bag. A little OTT, but my bashmates love me so much when I pull what they need out of my bag :D

W00T 200 posts PwNeD
Remember kids, the more posts you have the bigger your dangly thingy gets :D

[Karadjas]

For Christ's sake, I've been trying to break in my Sirio since Friday and I still haven't!

I actually got 3 tanks through on Friday morning before a friend with a just bought fixer-upper Fiat Uno Turbo called, screaming for help with his transmission. Rest of Friday gone.

Saturday comes. With it comes a call from another friend wanting me in his pits for a kart race. I had some time in the afternoon, but I got another call from the Uno friend about his turbo getting crazy high boost.

Today. Early morning and noon family obligations, afternoon helping to fix an Integrale rally car that broke and had to be ready for tomorrow. Just got home from that and it's 9:33 PM.

So I spent the last 3 days with oil and grime all over me but none of it came from my Sirio. I carried all my stuff around for the whole of these 3 days, praying that I'll get a little time.

Best yet, my best friend is getting together with his 6 year gf tomorrow morning (she studies abroad) and I know she has bad news about them. Monday gone.

This is the longest break-in ever.

[HPI rally racer]

haha take a 3 day vaction to the track?? it seems like u need some nitro going through ur nose right now, leave everything else up to the nitro haha

[HPI rally racer]

ive lost almost all brake power..i was wondering how i could tighten my rear brakes? lol please do not tell me i have to take it all out, been there done that and dont want to do it again..but if i have to then what can i do.. btw it's been wayy to quiet here latley..why dont u guys tell us about racing result's and stuff?

[Quinton]

Just use a 1.5mm allen to loosen the brake stops and push them forward a little. When I'm doing this I turn on the radio and test and re-test and readjust many times to get the front and rear brakes just right. For some reason the buggy takes me many times to get right.

[Karadjas]

double post

[Karadjas]

I DID IT! I BROKE IT IN!

Finally! I finished today. It took me 7 days to put 8 tanks through an engine that starts on first bump and runs so rich a tank only lasts 5 minutes or so. Now, it's tuning time :D

BTW, does anyone have a 25t clutch they don't need? At crazy rich settings with a 16t it'll break traction on technokit As on excellent asphalt :cool: :D

[Fluke]

so how's it going?

[Karadjas]

Got silence?

I'm sad to say that my Sirio hasn't been turned over since break in because I was otherwise engaged with a special someone for some time.

I'd like to know how everyone's doing, it's too quiet in here all of a sudden!

[eb4flys]

hi guys..well the racing season is well under way in the UK, so busy with that at the moment.....just a note to add to you all, i thought i would go get myself a hyper 8 pro the other day to compare with my hyper 7 pro uk spec...and the result is.......i think the hyper 8 would be good for...........nothing, what have they done, in my opnion it no where comes close to the build quality of the the H7 pro, and a total waste of money, i know some of you may dissagree, but thats my opnion and after 20 years of racing, it has to be the worst hyper to date.
on a lighter note hope your all doing well and blasting round the track like its going out of fashion, and dont forget if you ever travel to the Uk, bring your buggy :)

[Karadjas]

eb4, where in the UK are you? I'm coming to London in September for uni

[Fluke]

here's a tip for dogbones (posted it in the pit tip forum too)

from time to time i loose a dogbone on my hyper7(but this tip applies to all dogbone equipped cars) and its a pita to walk aroung looking for them.how not to loose them?zip tie them!form a loop around the dogbone tight enough so the dogbones ends can't slide through but loose enough so it doesn't bind.secure the other end to the car.so next time you loose a dogbone you know exactly where it is.



on my hyper
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/DSCI0038.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/DSCI0037.jpg

[eb4flys]

eb4, where in the UK are you? I'm coming to London in September for uni

Ok well your not far from me i live about 20 mins from central london, and thats just where the track is, you are more than welcome to come to the track, and im sure i can even find you a spare buggy to have a race with i will PM you my number for when you get here, and if you need help with anything when you do get here just call.
michael

[corbin]

is the 2-speed worth getting for the Hyper 7

[Fluke]

depends where you run.if you plan to run onroad its great but they are a bit fragile for offroad and jumps

[Karadjas]

When offroad, a 3 diff chassis will nearly always outhandle a 2 diff on throttle. A 2-speed does away with the center diff I believe.

Besides, any 1/8 (except maybe the Axis) with a decent engine (ie anything above a Force P4) is fast enough and quick enough for offroad. You'd never use or even make out the acceleration advantage of the extra speed.

Onroad though... that's a whole different story. If you are racing onroad, it's a must have. If you are bashing onroad, it's a gotta have :D

[Fluke]

What about jumping with a two speed or running in dirt with it?

[evaderstman]

The two speed is very exposed so dirt would probably cause lots of problems. Also with jumping i think it would cause problems because you wouldn't have the diff to take the extra stress. If it was a sealed diff like mts run it might be a different story.

[Karadjas]

no diff, no slipper, baaaaaaaaad

[Fluke]

nothing to add i think

[corbin]

i have the hyper 21 4port and i lost the carb setting page does anyone no how many turns out the master needle or the main needle woteva you call it is???

[Fluke]

http://www.ofna.com/pdf/eng-hyper21.pdf

that might help you

[corbin]

iv messed around with the mid range needle and on that page it doesnt say wot the setting is for it i no i wasnt ment to touch but yeh i did lol any help on that???

[Grant Tokumi]

After a loooooong break from racing or even running my Hyper 7 since around November of last year (2005), I finally hit the track again for a fun day of racing. I TQed with around 8 entries in 8th scale buggy. Unfortunately, in the main, my front dogbone kept popping out. It happened 2 times, so I finished last. Still a fun day, was nice to get out again. I remember this popping dogbone was a chronic problem in the past, that I never did resolve. Its time to go buy the correct longer axles for my C-hub front end......

Happy Racing!

[kawasakirider]

Man what do u guys think, sell my hyper as is and use that money to go to hop ups for my savage and a revo or keep it buy an engine for it and save up for my sav hop ups and revo? Either way i won't be able to buy a revo for ages. What do u guys think?

[Grant Tokumi]

My personal thought is if you are tight on money, then just keep 1 vehicle. That unfortunately would lean towards selling your Hyper if you choose to keep the Savage. Or sell both and get the Revo.

[kawasakirider]

No way im selling both i just dropped a thousand and fifty bucks on my savage. I am going to fix my rear diff, save up for c.j.oos 8 port engine then next year after i save the rest of this yr buy a 3.3 revo or a ps3 if it is in australia i like the hyper to much to sell it

[BillH]

Hello everyone. I am new to this forum even though I have had my PCR for a while. I bought the buggy as my first gas buggy. I had issues with the engine but all that is better now. I could use some help setting the car up how ever. The track is a dirt Square think indy. It has small tripples on the rear streach a table top on the front streach and some whoops. The track is a 250-280 racing groove pretty hard surface. I would like some advise in what to use in the diffs, shocks, and what tires. Thanks alot. Bill H

[Grant Tokumi]

Diff Oil:
The most common recommendation for diff oil is 5K-7K-1K, meaning 5000wt in front, 7000 wt in center, and 1000wt in rear. Although I've seen some more recent Hyper 7 specific recommendations of 3K-3K-5K. It a bit far from the intuitive 5-7-1, but some claim the 3-3-5 is better for the Hyper 7. That is actually what I have in mine Hyper 7 now. This is also assuming you have the stock standard diffs in front and rear, and spider diff in center.

Shock Oil:
I frankly forgot what oils is recommended since I've been out of the race scene for a while. This past weekend, I ended up with 50wt up front, and 60wt in rear. Part of my choice was geared around which of my bottles had more oil in it to use so I would not follow my choice. I think 40wt all around should be fine.

Tires:
If track racing is what you are going to be doing, then the kind of standard tire setup is Proline Crimefighters. Panther Kumodo Dragon 2 are also popular here where I race.

[Grant Tokumi]

Got silence?

I'm sad to say that my Sirio hasn't been turned over since break in because I was otherwise engaged with a special someone for some time.

I'd like to know how everyone's doing, it's too quiet in here all of a sudden!
Trying to get up to speed by reading old posts. Did you mean you just got engaged?? I've been out for a while because I recently got married in January. :)

[Grant Tokumi]

I remember this popping dogbone was a chronic problem in the past, that I never did resolve. Its time to go buy the correct longer axles for my C-hub front end......

Talk about fast service! I just ordered my extended axles from Nitrohouse on Sunday night. It is Tuesday, and I have my axles in my hands. Granted I did order 3 day air, but they got it to me pretty much the next working day. Nitrohouse ROCKS!

Next is to make sure I ordered the right part. :) Part #19026, front CVA . Should be the ones for the C-hub fron suspension. I see 3 rings on the axles so thats a good sign.

[BillH]

Have any of you had any problems with the stock breaings? I have one pinion bearing in the front and one carrier bearing sieze. It melted the front diff! I am just wonering if I should change all of them now.

[Karadjas]

Trying to get up to speed by reading old posts. Did you mean you just got engaged?? I've been out for a while because I recently got married in January. :)

No, I didn't get engaged
I'm only 21, I still have a life to live! :D
Congratulations, around here we wish "na zisete kai kalous apogonous", which translates "to live and good descendants" :D

My pro c-hub has 4 lines engraved on the front CVAs, but I don't have part number right now.

I've never had any problems with my bearings, and I've had my H7 for a while...

[BillH]

Glad to hear about the bearings I guess I wont go on a witch hunt now.

[Grant Tokumi]

My pro c-hub has 4 lines engraved on the front CVAs, but I don't have part number right now.

I had the 4 ring axles as well which were the stock axles for my PBS front end. After converting to C-hub, it ran fine most of the time. But once that axle popped out once, it became easier and easier.

The 3 ring axles I just got are slightly longer and they go deeper into the cup. I have yet to run it, but I am confident my popping axle days are over.

[freemachinist]

Seized bearing equals motor strain. Replace them.

[BillH]

I did replace the 2 bad one's. I spun all the others without removing from the car and they seem ok. The next part order I place will have a complete set of replacement bearings.

[Joost]

to break the talking :) , some pictures of our hyper 7 pro:

www.neoghost.tk (http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/1.html)

[gvjensen]

what is the difference between the hyper 7, hyper 7 pbs, and the hyper 7 pro? i'm planning on getting a hyper 7 tq arr, but which model of the 7 does this one fall under?

[freemachinist]

The difference between the models is easy. The hyper 7 rtr comes with an AM radio system, cheap tires, a pull start hyper21 engine, the front and rear braces and basically tie rods with captured ballends and a few other things.
the Hyper 7 pbs is the same as the hyper 7 except it has pivot ball suspension. It is a matter of personal preferance if you'd like pbs or c hub steering.
the hyper 7 PRo has carbon fiber goodies, no engine or electronics and a nicer set of wheels and tires.
The hyper 7 tq, I believe, simply replaces the last years model, I think it comes with an engine depending on which one you buy. I'm pretty sure there is an arr on the tq.

[Karadjas]

http://www.ofna.com/kits.html

[Karadjas]

My Pro-R w/ Sirio is taking part in a hobby exhibition that started on Friday and ends tomorrow, expect photos and videos tomorrow

[freemachinist]

Waiting patiently...

[Karadjas]

The only H7 video I have on my camera is 56MB because the guy taking it apparently isn't too top heavy and shot entire tank runs.
I believe a friend has smaller ones in his camera, I'll have to check though

The guy who took the videos ran a Thunder Quake w/ P4 and couldn't keep it under control, so breaking my front shock tower and making my one-piece exhaust a two-piece.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM0650.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM0656.jpg

Below is a link to a 30-second 6.46MB video of the Thunder Quake. Trust me, he was trying to keep it in a straight line.

http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/?action=view&current=HPIM0653MPG.flv

[Karadjas]

I cropped the huge H7 video down to 20MB and 1 min 23 secs.
Click below

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/th_H7wmv.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/?action=view&current=H7wmv.flv)

[Grant Tokumi]

That was an interesting exhibition setup. Hopefully it would draw at least 1 more peron into the hobby.

On a side note, your engine sounds pretty rich. When you ran out of gas, that brief second sounded like around a nice tune.

[RCfroman]

I'm FINALLY getting a hyper 7 sometime soon, probably within the next few weeks.

[Karadjas]

Yeah, my exhaust, front shock tower and rear left shock shaft broke the night before that vid was taken and I had to keep richening the carb to get any fuel into the engine. Clumsy Thunder Quake driving 15 year olds cost a lot in repairs, I'll tell you that.

We weren't allowed any ramps :(

[eb4flys]

well guys after almost 20 years in the hobby, i am now hanging up my RC gloves, not been on here for a while, but it's been great chatting to you all, i wish you all well, remember enjoy your hobby,and it's all about fun not who comes first or spends the most money.
good luck

[Grant Tokumi]

Good luck to you eb4flys.
and it's all about fun not who comes first or spends the most money.
Nice quote.

Why are you hanging up the gloves? Perhaps the need for speed will bring you back after a few years.

[Grant Tokumi]

We have a couple guys at the track who takes some fantastic photos. Here are a few from this past weekend (6/24/06) where I race. Thats my Hyper 7 in the 2nd image (in the front spot). :)

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/70716/Ni23714.jpg

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/70716/Aq98524.jpg

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/70716/Wb74360.jpg

Source:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3721246/mpage_29/key_/tm.htm

[Karadjas]

New video from the track, 11.83MB and 2mins 53 secs long

Worth the download, trust me!
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/th_SoGood.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/?action=view&current=SoGood.flv)

[Grant Tokumi]

Nice work Karadjas! That engine looks ballistic.

[Karadjas]

Thank you!

It is, no other buggy can clear the double so easily.
I'm still not used to it though, as you can tell from the landings :o :D

[rcwheeling]

Ofna 1/8 Hyper 7 PCR is this a good buggy cause i have able to trade my savage 4 one

Lee

[monyet fangkeh]

hey guys...i just bought my self hyper 7 tq sport with mach .28 engine. it was awesome as this is my first offroad rc :D

after i break in the engine, i went to this mini dirt bike track and i had a blast sadly it cut short TT. the bottom shock cap got blown. anyway....so i went to my lhs and bought the parts 80710. and now....i tried to rebuild the shockies and the bottom shock cap wouldnt fit. like the shock shaft is bigger than the hole thingy. did i get the wrong parts? if it helps my shock shaft is 3.5mm.

thanks

Aryo

[monyet fangkeh]

how much force are we talking about in here XD. cause i've tried with my superpower but it still wont get in. or am i just physically weak here? does anyone have some easy tricks to do it?

thanks

Aryo

[Quinton]

Assuming its the right part you could heat it up so it would flex more and then push it on

[Joost]

Here 2 Hyper 7 Pro's of my mate and me :)

Btw, i bought a spektrum DX-2 ( can't see it on the pictures )

http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/images/hypernew/forum/IMGP1378.JPG

http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/images/hypernew/forum/IMGP1379.JPG

http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/images/hypernew/forum/IMGP1383.JPG

http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/images/hypernew/forum/IMGP1388.JPG

http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/images/hypernew/forum/IMGP1406.JPG

http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/images/hypernew/forum/IMGP1409.JPG

http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/images/hypernew/forum/IMGP1410.JPG

http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/images/hypernew/forum/IMGP1415.JPG

[Grant Tokumi]

Nice pictures! Thanks for the share. I'm wondering why your antenae is so long if you got the spektrum? My antannae is only like 3 inches tall now with my spektrum. It barely sticks out of the body.

[Dirk Jan]

Thanks :cool: (other buggy is mine) He still has the long antenna there because he didn't have it's spektrum yet when the pictures were made :)

[buggie_boy]

dose anyone kno if a hyper 7 2-speed will fit in a inferno mp7.5

[Joost]

Nice pictures! Thanks for the share. I'm wondering why your antenae is so long if you got the spektrum? My antannae is only like 3 inches tall now with my spektrum. It barely sticks out of the body.

Thank you, glad you like it!

Short antenna (http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/gallery/pictures/IMG_0004spec.JPG) ;)

Gallery (http://neoghost.1nternet.tv/gallery/index.php?list=8)

[evaderstman]

Buggie boy the hyper 7 one won't, but the kyosho landamx one will. Also Joost those pictures are quite nice especially for action shots.

[Joost]

Thanks dude,

I hope to see more pics of other buggy's here :)

[mtucker]

I'm new to 1/8 scale buggies. I bought a Hyper 7 on Ebay that is in pretty good shape and I am going through it. One thing I noticed is the A-arms aren't parallel to the sides of the front diff (see picture). I put some white lines on one side to show what I am talking about. Is this normal? If it isn't right, it would seem that someone used the wrong metal piece (the one with the small tab that fits into the front bumper).

http://www.mattleah.net/pictures/RC/hyper7/Hyper7_a_arms.jpg

Thanks,
Matt

[Grant Tokumi]

If I remember correctly, the rearend should be like that to create the toe-in, but not th front end. That aluminum piece on the front is the wrong one. Its too late at night right now for me to pull my buggy out to take pictures.... Just got home from the track. I came in 2nd place tonight on expert 8th scale buggy class out of around 7 racers. :)

BTW, That buggy does look in pretty good shape.

[mtucker]

Congrats on your racing last night.
Maybe the fix could be as easy as swapping the rear and front pieces brackets that hold the a-arm pins?
Let me know how your buggy is setup. I am going to go the local racetrack to practice today (different vehicle) and I will se if anybody has any input.

Here is a picture of her with everything stripped off.

http://www.mattleah.net/pictures/RC/hyper7/Hyper7_roller.jpg

Thanks,
Matt

[Grant Tokumi]

I was taking apart my buggy today and I realized I didn't get that pic of my hinge pins for you. I hope you got your hinge pins fixed. I took some picstures today.

Front End
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2006/fronthinge.jpg


Rear end
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2006/rearhinge.jpg

[Grant Tokumi]

Before
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2006/hyper7-gt.jpg
Photo: September 9, 2006 Courtesy of TNB productions
http://www.tnbproductions.com




























After
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2006/pieces.jpg


I usually don't take my Hyper 7 apart that much when I clean it after the weekly races, but its time for a major overhaul, including replacing that slightly worn out chassis, :) so everything came off this time around.

[mtucker]

Thanks Grant Tokumi for the pictures. It looks like someone reversed the brackets since my front end is the one with the slant. I'll have to switch her over.
Matt

[dhutch]

Another one joins the crowd...
...just bought myself a hyper7 (TQ sport) early this afternoon.

Its going to be good fun! Ive had five tanks though it allready, three on the bench real rich, one and half on the bench slightly leaner, then the last half jsut rolling around the road.

I cant begin to read this whole thread form scrach, but im going to have a good go in the mean time!



Daniel

[Terry]

I'm looking to pick up a Hyper 7 too, not sure if I want to go with the tq or PBS 28, any suggestions? Also, what type of receiver battery pack fits this, flat or hump?

[Grant Tokumi]

Welcome to the both of you.

Terry,
I personally like the C-hub over the pillowball (PBS) suspension, and I believe the TQ is a C-hub. I had some problems with the PBS binding up on me.

The receiver battery should be a flat pack, not hump.

[Grant Tokumi]

FYI. Nitrohouse is having a blowout on the Hyper 7 TQ Sport: $209.95
http://www.nitrohouse.com/blowout_specials.htm

[dhutch]

I talked to the guy at the lms about TQsport Vs PBS.
- He said there almost indentical cars, bar the PBS, and that he acctally prefers the drivability of the c-hub car.

The battery pack you want is one of the 'dumpy' 5cell flat packs, such as this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKUZ4&P=7).
- I got a 1400mAh NiMH pack, its fits like a glove, with a special diffrent cover for it included, as aposed to the stock 4*alkline holder. (this is the TQsport atleast)


Daniel

[SGrim80]

FYI. Nitrohouse is having a blowout on the Hyper 7 TQ Sport: $209.95
http://www.nitrohouse.com/blowout_specials.htm

I'm looking at the Hyper 7 RTR. Mostly for backyard bashing with the possibility to get into racing but I'm not sure right now. Any reason to go for the TQ Sport over the RTR?

[SGrim80]

I am looking at buying a OFNA Hyper 7 rtr with the Mach .28 engine. I know the Hyper 8 RTR is coming out soon. It is considerably more expensive than the Hyper 7 right now.

My question is, how much longer will parts be available for the hyper 7 and are most if not all of the parts from the hyper 8 backwards compatible? I'd imagine the aftermarket cnc and graphite parts for the hyper 7 would be around for a long time. Has anyone come across any cnc front and rear arms for the hyper 7?

Thanks!

[mtucker]

My question is, how much longer will parts be available for the hyper 7 Hard to say for sure, but with so many Hpyer 7s out there I think there will be replacement parts for a long time. Nitrohouse stocks lots of parts for the Hyper 7 and Ebay is loaded with 7 parts that are WAY below retail prices.

Matt

[SGrim80]

Hard to say for sure, but with so many Hpyer 7s out there I think there will be replacement parts for a long time. Nitrohouse stocks lots of parts for the Hyper 7 and Ebay is loaded with 7 parts that are WAY below retail prices.

Matt

What are the common strength upgrade parts?

[HyperRuben]

Hello everyone, everybody on this thread seems to be very helpful and I've gotten some very valuable info. Just recently purchased a Hyper7 PBS RTR, already changed out the radio with a spektrum DX3(?). Enjoying it like crazy! My question is what are some good gear combos, first of all I run on a blacktop track and need some speed on long straight away. I have a 14t pinion, im getting blasted by all the other cars.....help please.

[HyperRuben]

Experimented with a 16t clutch bell, and WOW...fast, but I think I might drop down to a 15t, lost a lot of torque with the 16t......hey I answered my own question...cool. I guess the best bet is just to try different combos........

[Dirk Jan]

I drive a 16t clutchbell too, (Joost too, same buggy). Just use the Mugen clutch shoes with Mugen 1.1mm clutch springs. A powerfull engine might help too. We drive our Hypers with the Picco .26 non pullstart and it really flies. The terrain we drive on is really big though. On the track you better use the 14t.

[HyperRuben]

Just burned out .....cracked the engine case on my stock MacStar .28, so the only other engine available at my LHS was a Axial .28. Well after break-in, I finally have it dialed in, damn engine screams. I might stay with the 16t clutchbell for the on-road course. Maybe drob back dow to a 14t for the off-road. Do those clutch springs engage at a higher RPM?? What are the stock springs on the Hyper 7 PBS....Do ya know?? thanks Dirk Jan.

[Grant Tokumi]

The thicker stiffer clutch springs like the 1.1mm is going to engage at a higher RPM. I believe stock OFNA clutch springs are 1.0 mm.

[Dirk Jan]

I guess the stock springs are even 0.9mm. With the 1.1mm springs you'll get more agressive acceleration, which you need to comensate for the bigger clutchbell. Also, the stock springs become weak pretty soon, so they engage too early.

Yesterday I drove my Hyper Pro with the 16t. clutch on the soccer field in front of my house. The field just wasn't large enough to reach top speed, so I might go back to a 15t.

Another thing: I changed the stock oil in the diffs for Mugen diff oil; 5000 in front and mid and 2000 in the rear. It makes driving my Hyper totally different! Much more steering and very agressive turn in. I can recommend to change your stock oil if you guys didn't do that yet.

Here's just a nice pic from my Hyper:

[monyet fangkeh]

i dont really understand the with the diff fluid tuning thingy. how come more thicker oil gives more steering? most people say its 5k/7k/1-2k for f/c/r. what are the effect having thinner or thicker oil and having different thickness on each diff.

[dhutch]

Yeah, im going to have to have a look at diff oils asap.
- I was thinking around the 5/10/3k area for a basic setup?
- I dont fully understand it, but that what ive heard around.

Also, i just had my first day on the track, and it was awsome, ran very well. bent a front shockshaft tho, and the rear shock tower slightly.
- Ive also swaped to hitech 425MG servos.


Daniel

[mtucker]

i dont really understand the with the diff fluid tuning thingy. I recently replaced the oil in my Hyper 7 with 5K/7K/1K front/center/rear and put in new bearings. I am still learning myself. There is a great on-line article on tuning buggy and truggy differentials on the web. It was done by a magazine that competes with RC Car Action so to not step on any toes I will just say do a Google search for "buggy differential oil". At this time Google will list the web article as the first result.

That was a great action shot of your buggy Dirk Jan.

Here is a beauty shot of my Hyper 7 while she was still clean. I took her to the track this weekend and dirtied her up...... she is so much happier dirty :rolleyes:

Matt

[HyperRuben]

Just ordered 5/7/1 and will replace oils when it gets here, mtucker....lemme know if you get a noticable difference.
A little depressed right know, busted a front lower a-arm, LHS doesnt have in stock, just ordered from towerhobbies.....going through nitro withdrawels....
also ordered a jammin x-1, should be getting it this week....

[mtucker]

It is hard to say what the 5K/7K/1K did for me. I only ran her for a total of a few minutes before I changed the diff oil. I don't know what was in her originally since I bought it used off Ebay as a roller.

Wow! A Hyper 7 and a x-1. You really don't want to be without a buggy to run do you? ;)

If you live near the west, you may want to consider Nitrohouse for Ofna parts. They are in L.A. and don't seem to have the lag time getting parts out like Tower. Tower is great, but if you order parts from them with three day shipping, sometimes you can wait two days for them to ship.

Matt

[HyperRuben]

Ya, im pretty excited...here I am a 32 year old actin like a 10 year old, like its gonna be Christmas on friday....hahaha. I live in El Paso, Texas. So I have to depend on my LHS, well there's 3 of them in town......it just seems everyone else has to break the same part as me and buy everything up so I have to wait! Uuuhhhgggg.....murphy's law.....I hate it. The lag time for my LHS is also pretty bad. But I will check out nitrohouse anyway......if I can get things faster, thats even better. keep me posted on the diff oil thingy. I've been reading that diff tuning is very track specific but a good starting point is 5/7/1. The Hyper 7 is gonna be for a local track that is blacktop with plywood jumps and bashing......X-1 is gonna be for the REAL track and will treat it with tender loving care.......haha

[Grant Tokumi]

Just received my Hyper 7 TQ in the mail today. $180 with shipping. Spare parts baby! :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=006&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=160042206239&rd=1&rd=1

http://www.ofna.com/images/new-hyper-tqsport-big.jpg

[Grant Tokumi]

Oh, on another subject of motor mounts, this one a little sour.

Be careful of mounting Novarossi engines on the Hyper 7.

Just a heads up. The adjustable motor mounting brackets (the part with the fins) on the Hyper 7 is a little thicker than other brand motor mounts from my understanding. I screwed the mounting brackets onto my new Novarossi P5X .21 engine on my Hyper recently and noticed there was some bowing out of the mounts. I wreched it onto the mounting plate and then to the chassis anyways, and it seemed fine. I broke in the engine no problems. Last weekend was the first time after break-in that I ran that engine. I noticed the engine block had cracked at the mounting bracket! Luckily so far the crack did not go all the way into the block so it still runs, but not sure for how long more. Its a real bummer that I already cracked my engine block on the first time out. New case is $169. Talking with a fellow who previously had a Hyper 7, and he noticed the same thing too with his Nova. The round part of the Nova P5X block under the mounting holes are a little wider than other engines. As a result, the thicker engine mounts bind when you screw them onto the engine, causing it to look slightly bowed out when you view the engine looking down the crank. He shaved a good portion of the insides of the mount to create enough clearance for the Nova engine. I did not and cracked my block as a result. Just thought I'd share my experience, and warn you all to be careful. I'm can't say whether ALL Nova engines would have the same problem. Has anyone else had a similar experience?

[Aussie RC10GT]

Hi guys my friend broke the cooling head on his hyper..... it has the hyper .28 in it anyone know where we can get a replacement head or an aftermarket one would be fine (what make and part#)

[Grant Tokumi]

Check here:
http://www.nitrohouse.com/eng,_ofna_hyper_21.htm

[Aussie RC10GT]

Check here:
http://www.nitrohouse.com/eng,_ofna_hyper_21.htm

cheers.....

They don't have a parts list on the hyper .28 6 port though...

[Grant Tokumi]

darn, you are right. Sorry about that. My next place to look would be the ofna site, but I don't see anything in there either.

http://www.ofna.com/engines.html

Otherwise ebay is always a good resource....

[mtucker]

I broke a shock shaft on my Hyper 7 last weekend (rear shaft). I have been doing a lot of reading on the forums. I could replace those shocks with either the pricey but highly rated Jammin big bore shocks (3.5mm shafts) or the Ofna 9.5 shocks (3.5mm).

I wondered though if I could "cheap out" and rebuild the shocks using 3.5mm shafts. I bought a set of 3.5mm shafts at the track that are the same length. The stock piston and nut fit fine. The rubber O-rings seem to slide up and down on the 3.5mm shaft just fine. The only thing that keeps me from sliding the 3.5mm shaft through the shock is the white hard plastic washers.
So it seems like if I could open up the white washers a bit or use others from a 3.5mm kit, I could convert my shocks over to 3.5mm shafts. I would also need the part that connects to the lower A-arm that the bottom of the shock shaft screws into to have a 3.5mm opening.

Has anybody done this? Can you see any reason why this wouldn't work?

I have read that I should check my droop set screw to make sure my A-arms aren't sagging too much and putting unecessary pressure on the shafts.

Thanks,
Matt

[Grant Tokumi]

I've busted those 3.0 mm shafts too. I know what you are talking about with the white washer, but I do not know firsthand if that is a viable solution. I went ahead and found Hyper 8 shocks on ebay which are also 3.5 mm shafts, so I've been using those. In hindsight, I probably should have gone with the Jammin Big Bores. I feel I'm too vested into the Hyper 8 shocks at this point to change, since I purchased 2 sets (8 shocks). My feeling is if you race, then Jammin Big Bores will probably give a smoother ride, but if you just bash around, then go for your mod, or see if you can find Hyper 8 3.5mm shock parts on ebay.

As far as the droop setting, I personally do not think that the shafts are breaking from hyper extending the shock. So the setting of the droop set screw on the a-arm should be irrelevent to busting shafts. I could be wrong though.

[mtucker]

Thanks for the input. I agree that it seems unlikely that the force of the A-arms springing out too far (droop not set right) after launcing from a jump could sheer a 3mm rod.

I talked to a long term employee at the LHS last night when I picked up some replacement 3mm shaft rods. He said the most likely cause of the breakage is having the shocks bottom out before the chassis bottoms out. That makes sense. You have a 8.5 pound car coming down after a jump and all that force pushing down. Your shock is compressing and eventually compresses completely. That force has to go somewhere. If the chassis bottomed out before the shock, then most of the force goes to the chassis and very little to the shocks. He looked at my buggy and said it looked like the shocks were bottoming out about a 1/4" before the chassis hit. He suggested raising the upper shock connection on hole.

I suppose putting fuel tubing on the bottom of the shaft would cushion the impact when the shock bottomed out.

Matt

[Redfox03]

i just got a hyper 7 tq sport yesterday, and so far it's pretty nice. but i notice the left front wheel is always pointing out to the left more even when i have the wheels pointing straight. what could be wrong? how do i adjust it?

[freemachinist]

2 things I'd check 1st. See that the servo horn is centered on the servo. If that isn't it, adjust the turnbuckle to pull the left wheel in a bit further. That should take care of your issue.

[Redfox03]

yep servo is centered. im used to my monster truck with adjusting the toe, but i didn't see like a little hole on the turnbuckle to adjust the toe with. but im gonna try that.

[Grant Tokumi]

yep servo is centered. im used to my monster truck with adjusting the toe, but i didn't see like a little hole on the turnbuckle to adjust the toe with. but im gonna try that.
I just got a TQ too (for spare parts :)). If I remember correctly, the turnbuckels that come with the TQ are not reverse threaded on one side like how your monster truck is. What this means to you is you will need to remove one side of the steering turnbuckle and lengthen the turnbuckle that way to center your left wheel.

Don't forget to locktite that buggy. I would especially lock down the engine mounting screws. Those tend to loosen easily and can damage the center diff gear and the clutchbell from them grinding each other they separate from the shifting engine.

[Redfox03]

are there any turnbuckles for it that are reverse threaded i can get? oh yeah, i did threadlock the engine mount screws, made sure to do that.

[Grant Tokumi]

are there any turnbuckles for it that are reverse threaded i can get? oh yeah, i did threadlock the engine mount screws, made sure to do that.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-Steering-Linkage-Turnbuckle-SS-Hyper-7-BUGGY_W0QQitemZ6065032419QQihZ009QQcategoryZ44028Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

[Redfox03]

will the hyper 8 gas tank and radio box fit the hyper 7? been wondering that for a while. here's a picture of dorothy
http://image2.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/216317/Jh16334.jpg

http://image2.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/216317/Aw70287.jpg

[m_vassell]

Here is my baby Caroline lol hehehehe

[Redfox03]

nice pics vassel. hey, what shocks are those? where'd ya get em?

[ibflyen]

Hi,
I just bought a H7 pbs pcr and hope to do some racing with it.
This looks like a very informative forum with some very knowledgable people here. :teacher:
I dont know much about the H7 and wondered if you guys would mind telling a rookie the difference between the pbs pcr and the other versions and what recomendations you might have for making my h7 more race worthy. :confused:

Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

[Karadjas]

http://hypercentral.18.forumer.com/index.php?showtopic=473&hl=which+hyper

[nto2race]

Here is my baby Caroline lol hehehehe

What type of air filter is that and what do you suggest be my primary focus to improve performance on a stock H7 pro kit? (its got a .21 8 port engine at the moment)

[fasterthanspeed]

I just bought a hyper 7 tq sport kit. i am putting in an os rg buggy engine in it. With a 3pk radio system. Do you guys have any tips on building it?
Im gonna start to build it tomorrow.

[ChuckDeez]

its already built. just add your servos, radio, motor, and slap on the tires and wing.

[fasterthanspeed]

Mine is the kit version. Its all in pieces.

[monyet fangkeh]

its quite easy really...just build it according the manual. if the diffs are not assemble yet...its a good time to fill it up with diff silicone oil instead of grease.

[ChuckDeez]

Mine is the kit version. Its all in pieces.

what the?!? mine was built already. The box looks exactly like yours too. Maybe mine is used? :confused:

[fasterthanspeed]

That is weird. I guess it doesnt matter if its used.If everything works fine. to me i enjoy building it. I then know every part of the car. This kit is very easy to make. In the last 40 min. I was able to build all 4 shocks and build all the diffs. and tranny.

[AreCee]

Calm down boys, you're both correct. There are three TQs being sold by Nitrohouse: http://www.nitrohouse.com/ofna_hyper_7.htm

[fasterthanspeed]

Wow Nitrohouse.com is really overpriced. I got mine for $150.

[Quinton]

From where?

[fasterthanspeed]

Ultimate Hobbies. I think i got the last one.
They might have one left.

[fasterthanspeed]

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o187/speedchallenger/Picture128.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o187/speedchallenger/Picture129.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o187/speedchallenger/Picture130.jpg
Thats what it looks like so far. Just linkage, tire gluing, and paint the body then ill be driving

[Quinton]

Looks nice! What engine did you go with?
You put in diff fluids?

[fasterthanspeed]

Looks nice! What engine did you go with?
You put in diff fluids?

I went with an oS RG. Its a little underpowered but itll do for now.
Yes I put in diff. fluids.

[monyet fangkeh]

nice man......now go have a bash/race and make it a lil bit dirty ;)

[fasterthanspeed]

nice man......now go have a bash/race and make it a lil bit dirty ;)

Lol. Have to wait until all the batteries are charged. Then I gotta break the motor in fully.

I have fast question. Ive got 40% O'Donnells fuel, and 20% blue thunder fuel. Which one should i use?

[fasterthanspeed]

Heres the body. Ill get more pics a little bit later.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o187/speedchallenger/Picture133.jpg

[fasterthanspeed]

Ive got a question. How do you adjust the break? i know it sounds kinda stupid, but it wouldnt stop. tryed adjusting it, it just wont work.

[Quinton]

I would use the 20%.
It can be tricky to adjust the brakes. Use a 1.5mm allen and adjust the collars. Turn on your radio and buggy and keep trying and adjusting until you get the front and rear grabbing the way you like. Be patient!

[monyet fangkeh]

or you could get a torqueier(SP?) throttle servo....so it'll have more pulling power. but yea...try adjusting the linkages first.

[nto2race]

I have just picked up a HP pro kit 2nd hand and am considering options. I only have racing in mind. The buggy came with a hyper 8 port 21 engine and I also have a Dynamite mach 28 which I was going to put into a Losi 8ight kit (never bought as hyper pro kit too good to miss at price). Which engine is better suited to racing and why? Which fuel ratios should I be using for race and practice? Which weight shock oil is best suited for all purpose performace? And what type of glow plugs are best suited to each engine, McCoy Mc-59?

[Quinton]

.21 will be better for racing, the rest will depend on the track. Different diff fluid weights will be a big factor as well.

[BillH]

Looks great.

[adams_1]

Help me revive this thread... gotta get it to 100 pages! Anyway, im planning on racing my TQ Sport soon... lots of folks round here have them, so hopefully I will keep up. Anyone else race them stock?

[JeffEmbracedDC]

Well, I'm working on a Hyper 7 Brushless conversion if anyone's interested. I should be updating it monday or tuesday with a ton more going on. I will be shooting good video of it when its finished :)

http://www.embraced-dc.com/Hyper7Conversion/Home.html

-J

[adams_1]

Sounds interesting...

Wondering though, why did you choose to go electric? Nitro sounds better!

[JeffEmbracedDC]

brushless = faster and cleaner than gas :).. plus I already have everything I need for electric cars (I have 4 others). It's also quieter, so I can run it at night. Also doesn't put out fumes so I can run it indoors more. I like electric much more :)

-J

[adams_1]

All good points, really... it's even good for the environment!

I was seriously considering going electric myself, as theres a new electric indoor track just about to open here. They've also added an electric track next to the nitro one. Couldn't resist the ideo of going nitro though.

[JeffEmbracedDC]

Electric is fun stuff! You definitely learn different things with electric. They're both super fun and have their ups and downs. I have been considering getting a nitro vehicle at some point here. I've had a few GTs in the past but I never liked them much. I was younger then and never really knew how to tune engines so I could never keep them running like I could with electric cars so I dropped the nitro thing. I've since learned a lot about nitro and am pretty confident that I could have a lot of fun with it at this point, but I have recently started exploring the world of brushless systems so that has been taking most of my money. But, I might get a nitro car/truck sometime soon.

-J

[BillH]

I have one gas car 8 electric. Gas is nice because I can run it untill I get bored not untill the battery dies lol.

[J0N]

Hey I just got my hyper 7 last week well I ordered it from Tower I tried to get it from Ultimate Hobbies but I think fasterthanspeed got the last one!! lol
With the cash I had left over since I did not buy a hyper 8 I picked up a front and center torsen diffs and rear and center cva's. I hope to have it ready to race the second week of feb at revalation. By the way what is a good tire to run there I am leaning to the panther KII is that a good tire?? thanks.

[astainback]

Did a lot of Hyper 7 guys switch over to the Hyper 8??

The reason I ask is because I bought a Mayhem, and I should have gotten a Hyper 7. Now that the Losi 8 is out, and the Hyper 8 is out, I want to get one that was as popular as the 7, and will remain popular for a long time (parts support)

Thanks,
Adrian

[adams_1]

Im no expert, but it seems like alot of people out there own Hyper 8's now, and are happy with them. You could always ask in the Hyper 8 forum if you have not already.

On a different note.... looks like a might have melted off my Hyper 7 pullstart. I guess it got hooked on the exhaust...?

[J0N]

My Hyper7 TQ came in yesterday and it was 80% done I was hoping for a kit but oh well.

[astainback]

My Hyper7 TQ came in yesterday and it was 80% done I was hoping for a kit but oh well.


I called Ofna, and he told me the only kit they had out now was the jammin.

I was looking at the kit on tower, and I am glad you posted this.

I am a little pissed now. I wanted a cheaper kit to build, and now it is gone.

How long do you guys think they will be making the hyper7 parts?

[J0N]

They should be around I ordered the carbon fiber radio plate front sway bar rear and center universals from this ebay store in Hong Kong for like 80 bucks and ofna wanted 49 alone just for the rear! The place is called Din Ball I also ordered a front and rear Torsen for under 200 bucks so check them out.I called Ofna, and he told me the only kit they had out now was the jammin.

I was looking at the kit on tower, and I am glad you posted this.

I am a little pissed now. I wanted a cheaper kit to build, and now it is gone.

How long do you guys think they will be making the hyper7 parts?

[monyet fangkeh]

yea...dinball is great ebay store for H7 parts. its just that it takes ages for them to send to australia.

[J0N]

I took my buggy out this past weekend for some shake down runs and I noticed that the car wanted to nose over off of most of the jumps. I felt myself having to snap the throttle more than I would like which sent the car nose high in turn over shooting my line. I am running 40 weight front and rear with the stock pistons black springs on the rear and Associated blue soft springs on the front. I am sitting arms level as far as the ride height goes and with a number 3 and 4 spacer in the rear with the shock set to the top inner shock position.I know it sounds like a newb question but I have not raced in like six years.

[astainback]

I bought a Hyper7 kit today. I found out that it was the kit and not 80% built!!
I was wondering if the kit came with diff fluid or grease?
Are the diffs sealable in the kit version??

Is there anything I need to know before building?

Thanks,
Adrian

[Quinton]

JON - Where's the question?

[J0N]

I bought a Hyper7 kit today. I found out that it was the kit and not 80% built!!
I was wondering if the kit came with diff fluid or grease?
Are the diffs sealable in the kit version??

Is there anything I need to know before building?

Thanks,
Adrian The Diffs come filled with grease but they are sealed so you can add diff oil after you clean them out.

[J0N]

JON - Where's the question? It's in there I think LOL, I just want to know what is a good neutral setup for the suspension and the I can work from there.

[astainback]

I started my build last night. I built the diffs. I haven't put the oil in yet.. so I left the screws out and set them to the side. I also built up the shocks. Except the shock ends. How in the world do you put these things on?? I could not get them to thread onto the shock shaft!! I have a pair of pliers that has a could of different sized notches to hold something like that, and they kept slipping! Also, how much diff oil do you put in the diffs??
Thanks,
Adrian

[J0N]

What I did was take two nuts that fit the shaft end then held it with a nut driver then used another nut driver to screw the lock nut to the piston side. As far as the diffs go I just filled them above the grears. Also put a bit of loc tight on the diffs screws before you put them back in.

[astainback]

So you used a nut driver ( I got one ) to hold the part of the shaft that is in the shock body... then with your hand (I assume) screwed the eyelet/shock end on. I will try that.
Thanks!
Adrian

[Flying Finn]

Is there a 150cc tank that would be a direct drop-in for the Hyper-7?

[astainback]

I have been building up the TQ kit. After I mounted the mud guards and fuel tank, I started to put the flywheel and clutch on the engine. I put the engine mounts on the motor and tried to mount it to the engine plate. That is when I realized that the pullstart assembly on my O.S. RG would not allow me to mount the plate. Has anyone else ever run into this?? How did you get it mounted?? If anyone can help out, that would be great.

[astainback]

The part that I am talking about is this one :

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCVY7&P=7

I can't mount this to the engine because of the pullstart on the RG.

[J0N]

The part that I am talking about is this one :

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCVY7&P=7

I can't mount this to the engine because of the pullstart on the RG.
There are a pair of small plates that ofna has that go between the motor and engine mounts they should give you enough clearence

[astainback]

I have already put those in, and it is not enough. Not even close!!

[astainback]

I am going to get the sportwerks engine mounts from stormer.

I was wondering how the hyper 7 TQ pipe was. Should I use it or replace it with a jammin pipe?? I am using an O.S. RG engine.

[wishingfortlt1]

I am going to get the sportwerks engine mounts from stormer.

I was wondering how the hyper 7 TQ pipe was. Should I use it or replace it with a jammin pipe?? I am using an O.S. RG engine.

ok,. so you got the tq kit, is it really a build-from -the-ground-up kit, or 80% KIT? im hoping for a ground up kit, could you please clarify this for me, and also, does it have the red/purple alloy like the tower hobbies pic shows, or is it all black? thanks for the help!!!

[wheelhead28]

the tq sport i got was a greeen one "rims,wing,fuel line,ect." here r sum pics of it. All that left to do is get my body done by friend from lhs. To see some of his work you can go to myspace.com/slipstreamgraphics to check him out.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/wheelhead4x4/th_Mybuggypics2.jpg (http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/wheelhead4x4/Mybuggypics2.jpg)
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/wheelhead4x4/th_Mybuggypics.jpg (http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/wheelhead4x4/Mybuggypics.jpg)
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/wheelhead4x4/th_Mybuggypic1.jpg (http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/wheelhead4x4/Mybuggypic1.jpg)

[wheelhead28]

Oh yea forgot to tell u that it was 80% done all thats needed to do was shocks,tires rims, radio,and motor of u liking. and thats the pipe it came with.

[wishingfortlt1]

well, then why are some peeps sayin that their kits are ground up builds, and some say that they are 80% kits? i ordered mine from tower yesterday, will be here tomorrow, and tech support at tower says ground up and tech at ofna says 80%, so which one is it?!?!?!?!?!?!


btw, your buggy looks great!!!!

[astainback]

My kit was a build up.. but I bought a sealed kit from a guy on another forum that had it for a good while. The new ones are 80%.
Tower has probably gotten in and sold thousands of these kits.
Hopefully you will get what you want!!!

[astainback]

Here is a link to another forum that shows my build. I have more done now, but I have not put up any new pics.

http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46086

I am tacracing (obviously) on that forum.

[wishingfortlt1]

crap then, i wanted a build kit, looks like i gotta do a complete teardown and rebuild then, man, that sucks

[bscarter11]

Hi, I have a hyper 7 (of some flavor) that I put a Mach 28. It is using a 14T clutch bell with composite clutch shoes and gold springs. I have the motor broken in now, and I was giving it a bit more juice tonight to try to get it running around some. It pretty much just sat there. I checked the linkages to the diffs and to the wheels, and everything turns well and what not. Its got to be the clutch. The gold springs would make the clutch engage later according to what I have read. I could use some input on what could be going on. It has to be the clutch though, it doesn't appear to be anything else. Any help would be appreciated. I did try the search on the forum, but it just returned results too general to be of any use. Thus I post here. Thanks.

Scott

[astainback]

I finished my Hyper7 build. I had a rough time getting the brake linkages to work properly without binding up.
Now that the are moving OK, they are hitting the body. Has anyone else seen this?? Any easy fixes for it other than hacking up the body?

[astainback]

Hi, I have a hyper 7 (of some flavor) that I put a Mach 28. It is using a 14T clutch bell with composite clutch shoes and gold springs. I have the motor broken in now, and I was giving it a bit more juice tonight to try to get it running around some. It pretty much just sat there. I checked the linkages to the diffs and to the wheels, and everything turns well and what not. Its got to be the clutch. The gold springs would make the clutch engage later according to what I have read. I could use some input on what could be going on. It has to be the clutch though, it doesn't appear to be anything else. Any help would be appreciated. I did try the search on the forum, but it just returned results too general to be of any use. Thus I post here. Thanks.

Scott

So the engine is running.. and revving.. and not moving the buggy???
Did you put the clutch shoes on backwards? They could be spinning inside the clutchbell. Is your flywheel turning and not the clutchbell??

[Karadjas]

Check for a loose flywheel as well.

[astainback]

I finished my Hyper7 build. I had a rough time getting the brake linkages to work properly without binding up.
Now that the are moving OK, they are hitting the body. Has anyone else seen this?? Any easy fixes for it other than hacking up the body?

Anyone?

[monyet fangkeh]

my linkages used to hitting up the body, i just cut the metal rod thingy and its all fixed.

[Grant Tokumi]

Mine touches the body some, but not enough where it is a problem. I do have the laydown servo setup though.

[Grant Tokumi]

BTW, how is that Sportswerks engine mount working for ya? Did you shave things down to fit?

[astainback]

The engine mount worked fine to get the motor up in the air, but it caused another problem.. The flywheel started to rub the brake screw. So I have to take the brake screw spacer out and cut the screw down so it would fit. I did have to shave some on the engine mount to get the new bigger screws to fit.

[bscarter11]

Turns out that the engine was broken in, but it was set so rich on the high speed screw that it didn't have enough power to engage the clutch. I am still in the process of leaning it out, but a few screws fell out. So I get to wait for replacements. Someone before me forgot the loctite...

[alexrckid]

anyone have an OFNA extended chassis(p/n 19300) for the hyper 7..?? willing to purchase...........

[pumpkinfish]

I have one installed on my roller. If your willing to pay for my whole Hyper 7 pro roller I'll gladly sell to you. I'm not looking to get much. Let me know. I do have pictures if interested.

[alexrckid]

humm....i've already got 2 hyper 7 rollers....but, thanks anyway.....just looking for the chassis.

[bodyman247]

Hello all, i'm new on here and fairly new to the hobby, I just bought a slightly used ofna hyper 7 pcr on ebay w/strter box and 959 brain charger. and jrxs3 tx, gave 350 for all of it, did i do well or get taken?, the buggy is n excellent condition.i appreciate any input as i have never had a hyper just revo and ultra lx comp.

[Dirk Jan]

I already sold my Hyper 7 Pro 1 year ago, but I found some action shots you guys might like. The car was great; very strong and handled awesome for bashing as well as on the track.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c281/djcozijnsen/hyper7.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c281/djcozijnsen/hyper6.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c281/djcozijnsen/hyper4.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c281/djcozijnsen/hyper3.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c281/djcozijnsen/hyper2.jpg

* I now drive a Kyosho Inferno MP777 SP2 with O.S-SPEED VZ-B Vspec power :)

[backyard_basher]

I'm doing a PBS conversion on my Hyper 7 TQ Kit. I followed all the directions that came with my conversion package. It said that there should be 2 threads showing on the lower arms in the rear when you screw in the pillow balls if you are using the hyper rims which I am but if not you should cut 3mm off the ball stud if using other types of rims. I am doing the rear conversion at the moment and with everything mounted looking from behind, the rims tilt in at the top a bunch like this--> /---\ and the rear dogbones are about to fall out. Are the TQ and PBS top rear arms and dogbones the same length?? I can screw the pillow balls in further and it fixes the problem, should I cut some off the studs to allow it to screw in the arm without bottoming out?? How much toe in/out should there be on the front/rear?? camber front/rear?? what should the width of the rear and front be when measuring from the outside edge of the rim to the other?? Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance for your help.. I know its probably something simple thats why I'm asking before I screw something up...

[backyard_basher]

Can anyone with the Hyper 7 PBS maybe shoot me some pics of the rear top and bottom with the rims off so I can get an idea if I'm doing my PBS convewrsion right???? I'm having trouble and no one else around here where I'm at knows anything about it.

[bodyman247]

I have an ofna hyper 7 and the rear diff seems tight, what do i do? any help ould be appreciated.

[Racin Rev]

I have an ofna hyper 7 and the rear diff seems tight, what do i do? any help ould be appreciated.

when you say tight what do you mean does it not diff or turn at all or what?


Basher: just a guess but I suspect that the ball studs are different lengths and backwards or that you have the housings upside down. I don't like the pivot balls on mine anyway and would rather convert the other way.

[bodyman247]

i'll check it out, Thanks.

[backyard_basher]

Basher: just a guess but I suspect that the ball studs are different lengths and backwards or that you have the housings upside down. I don't like the pivot balls on mine anyway and would rather convert the other way.

I got it figured out.. First I cut 3mm off the pivot ball studs so I could screw them into the arms further without damaging the arm. After I cut the pivot ball studs I just used my old arms and hubs and made the PBS parts the same length.

[GA Maxx]

Hi, Just purchased a TQ, What are the differences between it and a PBS or a Pro?

[wishingfortlt1]

Hi, Just purchased a TQ, What are the differences between it and a PBS or a Pro?


i run a tq, and have upgraded it to pro specs.

the pro has the f/r/c cvds, all the graphite goodies, and various other things. the pbs stands for piviot ball suspension, which is a bit more adjustable but less durable imo.

congrats on the purchase of a great car, ive been racing mine for 3 years now, and ive tried different cars including the hyper 8 and losi 8ight, but i keep going back to my 7.

[GA Maxx]

Cool, Has the Pro got PBS?

Where can I get the carbon bits and the CVD;s?

[A4DTM]

hey.. anyone have this problem?
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/5690/p7261525qn7.jpg

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/5346/cimg8646td3.jpg

[wishingfortlt1]

Cool, Has the Pro got PBS?

Where can I get the carbon bits and the CVD;s?

i got everything from tower hobbies, also, if you want to run a body with a different look, the proline crowd pleazer body for the mbx-5 will fit with a few trims. and no, the regular pro has the c-hub front suspension, but imo, the c-hub is bit more stout. heres some pics of it (when it was new) the only other things i did to it is full stainless hardware, werks adjustable clutch, and a jammin jp-2 pipe. i run in the outlaw class, so im running the axial .28 spec1s

[wishingfortlt1]

hey.. anyone have this problem?
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/5690/p7261525qn7.jpg

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/5346/cimg8646td3.jpg


wow..............lol!!!

[spawn_x]

Hey guys. I picked up a used hyper 7 for a good price and am rebuilding it now.

It looks like it suffered a crash or two - rear shock tower is slightly tweaked, I believe the front is too, and it looks like the chassy is a bit tweaked as well.

Would I be ok with just straightening these out? Its not much of an angle, very slight, so I doubt structure would weaken. I'm also going to use this to play on the track a bit, bash around, maybe race a bit (my skills need to improve a LOT, plus I have other vehicles). I don't want to put much money into this, I know its an older design, plus I got it other vehicles

So.. ok to straighten it back out and run it?

Thank you!

also, I read up that chassy braces that come stock kind of suck. is it worth to upgrade?

[wishingfortlt1]

Hey guys. I picked up a used hyper 7 for a good price and am rebuilding it now.

It looks like it suffered a crash or two - rear shock tower is slightly tweaked, I believe the front is too, and it looks like the chassy is a bit tweaked as well.

Would I be ok with just straightening these out? Its not much of an angle, very slight, so I doubt structure would weaken. I'm also going to use this to play on the track a bit, bash around, maybe race a bit (my skills need to improve a LOT, plus I have other vehicles). I don't want to put much money into this, I know its an older design, plus I got it other vehicles

So.. ok to straighten it back out and run it?

Thank you!

also, I read up that chassy braces that come stock kind of suck. is it worth to upgrade?

for just a basher, yeah, just tweak the old parts the best you can.

as for the stock chassis braces, yes, they suck, look at mine and you'll see that i upgraded mine to the cnc machined ones, wayyyy more stiffer....ive put mine through hell and havent tweaked a thing. also, stay away from the carbon fiber shock towers, no good.....if you have probs with the rear tower bending, just simply double up 2 aluminum towers, you will also need longer hardware, but its well worth it. you can do the front tower like that too, but you will need to find some longer upper hinge pins, other than that its a great car, the guys at my local track with all their losi's and mugens cringe when i run, just becuase i can finish a 45min main without breaking!!!

[spawn_x]

Thanks. I actually got a good deal on ebay today and for 35 bucks shipped I got a new chassy, arms, guards (mine were cracked) and some other stuff. I'll probably straighten the other ones and bolt them up together like you said, that sounds like a great idea, thanks.

I've read of those stiffners that you are talking about - how much did those run? worth the money? I agree, the stock looks weak - one was already out of place when I got the car

also ordered some upgraded front CVDs as one of mine was broken.

really looking forward to running the car! :D

thanks.

[wishingfortlt1]

Thanks. I actually got a good deal on ebay today and for 35 bucks shipped I got a new chassy, arms, guards (mine were cracked) and some other stuff. I'll probably straighten the other ones and bolt them up together like you said, that sounds like a great idea, thanks.

I've read of those stiffners that you are talking about - how much did those run? worth the money? I agree, the stock looks weak - one was already out of place when I got the car

also ordered some upgraded front CVDs as one of mine was broken.

really looking forward to running the car! :D

thanks.


sounds like you got a killer deal, kudos!!!

tower has the chassis braces:

heres a link to the front one: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCWB0&P=SM

and the rear: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCWB1&P=SM

you will find that they make a big difference on how the car behaves.

best of luck, and if you have anymore questions, just ask!!!

steve

[spawn_x]

ohhh ok, nitrohouse had those too but I wasn't sure if them was the ones. will pick it up from them instead of tower, since they spammed my email box for 5 years after I got one small item from them :D

well, thanks again! looking forward even more to finish with this and start it up.

:D

[wishingfortlt1]

ohhh ok, nitrohouse had those too but I wasn't sure if them was the ones. will pick it up from them instead of tower, since they spammed my email box for 5 years after I got one small item from them :D

well, thanks again! looking forward even more to finish with this and start it up.

:D

yeah, nirtuhouse did the same to me:roll2:, great selection on ofna/ho bao/jammin stuff, but lousy service. tower blows 'em outtta the water anyways!!!

its hard for lhs's to get ofna stuff, becuase ofna is very selective on who they give distributorships to, both my lhs's say that ofna/ho bao are pos's that break all the time, so they dont carry the parts, but if you really look at it, if they "break" all the time, wouldnt they make a killing off replacement parts?!?!!? no, its becuase ofna denied them a distributorship!!!!

look into all the other options for the 7 too, everything's great 'cept for the cf towers.
im a firm believer in the buggy, i love it so much, i keep going back to it, even tho i've own numerous other brands like mugen, gs, kyosho and so on.....

[Basil Nikitaras]

:cool:Hi all,Basil,I own a hyper 7 T.Q. sport
i was wondering how long the upgrade parts like,cnc shock towers,universal drive shafts for the rear and to the centre and from the centre diffs,carbon fibre parts like the radio tray,front torque plate will be available for? I know the T.Q. black was just released in australia,so i'm hoping I've got some time.Any one know how I can get proline crowd pleazer body 2.0 for the hyper 7?Or a J-concepts for the hyper7.My local hobby shop onlyhas the crowd pleazer 2.0 for the hyper 8.i know i can buy the hobao hyper 7 body for the custom fit,but i want a body that has thicker polycarbonate,for racing.if theres any shops on site that stock the proline crowd pleazer 2.0 for the hyper7 or the new proline Shift for the hyper7 please post.thanx,Basil:roll2::wave:

[mrbLunT]

Hello folks, i just got my first nitro Hyper 7TQ black 1/8 buggy 5 days ago and i gotta say this is the best move ive made in 08; hobby wise. anyways I started out the hobby based on simple guidelines given by the guys @ Hobby Town USA and my unconditional love to RC cars - I don't trust the guys @ HObby Town Usa too much due to my belief that they DO want me back there every day purchasing this & that & charging me $18/hr to assemble a starter box i purchased from them (yea, i know i could've done it myself but i was already frustrated with the pull start being messed up and y'know the rest :(

Anywho, since i purchased the buggie, all i replaced was the steering servo to HiT4ec HS-645MG and a 6v 1400mAh Ni-MH reciever battery pack and i gotta say steering & response is lovely so far.

My main issue right now is
1) i went through 4 Odonnell 0D077 1/10 glow plugs in 5 days ; clueless as of why :mad:

2) they (hobby town USA) had the engine tuned up to run rich until it was break in (which already happened the 2nd day of the purchase) - since then i've been running on the same setting. I have no clue what so ever how to balance the air flow knob and the fuel trottle knob to fine tune it so it can actually run steady and fine. i'm still running 20% Nitro synthetic/castor blend, 18% Oil content Eliminator brand :confused:

3) *optional - since i messed up my stock pull start, I'm eager to know if i should consider getting another non pullstart mechanism or (in the long run) consider upgrading the engine (still gotta stay in the .21 size but maybe a 7/8 port Evo 2/3 - the only difference i noticed b/n the Evo 2 & 3 is that Evo3 has the extra 1000 RPM over the EVO2 but the rest spec are identical but price is $399 for Evo2 and $469 for Evo 3 - that's more than wat i paid for the RC - that's straight up WHOA!! I'm not a pro racer but plan to in the near future (maybe 2-3 month from now) so please feel free to let me know if i'm going overboard with what I'm looking into

As much as it could be annoying, id like to kindly remind you nitro buggy pros that i'm a complete rookie and your advices, tricks, suggestions and infos would be highly appreciated in upmost laymans terms.

I thank you in advance on behalf of me and the good folks in Decatur, GA :)

God Bless

[Racin Rev]

You should fine some nice folk at the track who are knowledgeable about engines and can assist you with set up. I have no idea what you are calling air flow knob and the fuel trottle knob. For the most part all that you should be messing with is the fuel mixture screw. Turn it clockwise a little at a time untill it sounds right. here is what your engine may sound like now
bubububbbaaareee. The Bubub sound is the too rich because the engine isn't fireing or fireing cleanly every stroke. It should sound like bbbaaaree. that is slightly rich (to save your engine but not so much that it slows you down so overly much). you could lean to aaareee, that is running about optimal. Note that optimal changes with temp and humidity etc. You should avoid reeeeee as that is too lean and will cause damage if you hear reeebububub that is fuel starvation pull over now and richen or check for leaks.

If you have a starter box just leave the pull starter off. it will just wear out your shaft so that it will fail especially if you are just using the starter box.

If you are new to racing just stay with the equippment you have and work on smoothness and accident free driving. think of your car as waltzing and you are making it dance gracefully over the jumps. Once you have that mastered you should be in the upper two thirds of the field anyway, then start thinking about upgrades.

I have a xxxt and went to the track after a four year lay over went out with by far lessor equippment than the other guys on the track. In heat one I was dead last but accident free. In heat 2 I moved to second place again avoiding the turn marshalls and enjoying the car sailing gracefully over the jumps.

[mrbLunT]

You should fine some nice folk at the track who are knowledgeable about engines and can assist you with set up. I have no idea what you are calling air flow knob and the fuel trottle knob. For the most part all that you should be messing with is the fuel mixture screw. Turn it clockwise a little at a time untill it sounds right. here is what your engine may sound like now
bubububbbaaareee. The Bubub sound is the too rich because the engine isn't fireing or fireing cleanly every stroke. It should sound like bbbaaaree. that is slightly rich (to save your engine but not so much that it slows you down so overly much). you could lean to aaareee, that is running about optimal. Note that optimal changes with temp and humidity etc. You should avoid reeeeee as that is too lean and will cause damage if you hear reeebububub that is fuel starvation pull over now and richen or check for leaks.

If you have a starter box just leave the pull starter off. it will just wear out your shaft so that it will fail especially if you are just using the starter box.

If you are new to racing just stay with the equippment you have and work on smoothness and accident free driving. think of your car as waltzing and you are making it dance gracefully over the jumps. Once you have that mastered you should be in the upper two thirds of the field anyway, then start thinking about upgrades.

I have a xxxt and went to the track after a four year lay over went out with by far lessor equippment than the other guys on the track. In heat one I was dead last but accident free. In heat 2 I moved to second place again avoiding the turn marshalls and enjoying the car sailing gracefully over the jumps.

Racin Rave: thanks a lot for that input. I guess i was one of the many impatient dudes who just wants to put nitro in the car and drive it like i wish. I didn't really take the time to understand and read about these buggies but for some odd reason i refused to; now i'm starting to catch up. what i refered to air flow know and fuel throttle knob are the high speed needle and low speed needles :cool:

i finally figured to restore the buggie to a baseline tune setting which i had messed around with the mid range which i should not have (according to OFNA).

one curious thing i got is, (under normal conditions and tuned up and all that) ain't the buggie supposed to run idle for as long as it run out of gas or whatever the reason or is it designed to turn off if idle for a certain amt of time. this might be the dumbest Q you've had to deal with but it's still a q :)
thank you sir

[Racin Rev]

In theory it should idle for a long time. There are a few factors that might limit that. First your idle setting. if it is turned down a bit too far the engine will eventually just not make the turn to tdc. Easily fixed. Then there is idle mixture That midrange setting would have an effect on that. Too lean the idle will climb and eventually the engine will starve, too rich it will eventually load up and quit. Then there are the mechanical factors like clutch and clutch bearings. if the clutch springs are wearing out the shoes might rub a little and cause the car to die. if the bearings are not spinning free the same can happen but not for long as they will soon fail and lock up the whole works. :eek:

My general rule of thumb is to get the engine to idle for about a minute or so. that gives you enough time to lay it down and get to the drivers stand or to sit at the line for the start without problems ( if there is a delay you will likely drive around a little to keep things hotted up anyway). Less than that and you run the risk of stalling on the start or in the slow sections.

[ripofna]

:(New to site but not RC cars,I am old skool KoyoshaJavilen,Frog,Grasshopper,
Fox eetc you get the era. Quick info my bother is sixk with inoperbable cancer with a short time given. This Hyper 7 was my brothers and is probably 5yrs old. After I mention what is missing I can hear people saying for what it needs go get a new one. RC cars and racing dirtbikes was his passion.... Nonetheless that is not the point he wants to see this car run again before it is too late. It needs servos, maybe controller,motor,pipe,rims and tires and that should be about it. I am open to used stuff as long as it is in decent working shape. What HO BOA is I have no clue I am sure somebody chime in on that. Not looking to hop this buggy up happy with stock type stuff IE: motor and pipe. I will post pix later today, hope I am can insert a IMG from photobucket, if not can somebody advise me? Thanks for reading my story. BTW if there was a more than one different model offered when he got this I have not a clue. I do not have alot of $ myself after being hit by a drunk driver in '07 ending my med career. Not looking for a pity party just wanting to see my drive this car again it has been sitting on his desk covered in dust for 3yrs till 2 days ago.Will post pix soon!:)

Thanks again

[Racin Rev]

It might be just you and me on this thread.
ho bao if that is spelled correctly is the name of the company who manufactured this for ofna. they are available internationally under that name. I am not sure do ho bao ofna jammin hong nor (another ofna brand) still exist?

[ripofna]

It might be just you and me on this thread.
ho bao if that is spelled correctly is the name of the company who manufactured this for ofna. they are available internationally under that name. I am not sure do ho bao ofna jammin hong nor (another ofna brand) still exist?

Seems that way doesn't it.