T4 vs XXX-T II (Durability and Reliability)

[bigair78]

I am thinking of getting a T4 or a XXX-t II. The thing I am wondering about is the trucks durability. Also, which has been reliable for them. I don't have a LHS near me so that won't be a factor at all. I just want something that will be bashable and not break very easily. I had the first edition of the xxx-t back in the day and the rear pivot block always broke. I don't want to deal with that again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Legend_Car]

well i jumped my xxx-t I over the roof of a barn and then it dropped 30 feet and ill i broke was the rear pivot plate, so you tell me if it is durable

[gizmoguy303]

The Losi is more durable than the Associated. I've raced both.

[bigair78]

well i jumped my xxx-t I over the roof of a barn and then it dropped 30 feet and ill i broke was the rear pivot plate, so you tell me if it is durable

I also broke it from jumping off a 1 foot ramp. So that is my concern.

[Legend_Car]

depends how u land i guess

[AE_racer38]

I've seen guys break alot of front arms on the losi from seemingly minor crashes,but your best bet would be to talk to local guys and see what they prefer, and what you can get parts for locally. Everyone on here is going to be biased one way or the other. One guy's t4 is going to be more durable than another guys xxxt, and vice-versa. Parts availability plays a big part in my decisions on new vehicles. My personal bias is toward Associated.

[bigair78]

What about hopups? Are they equal from that asspect? Like I said, I don't have a LHS so I have to order everthing I get.

[TBone77]

Owned, built, and raced both:

XXX-T MF2 all the way.

MF2 Pros: Easier to drive, more durable, good setup advice in manual, slightly better fit/finish

T4 Pros: Cheaper, easier to wrench on


I honestly believe the XXX-T is a little more durable, but to be fair, it can be more of a hassle to work on when things do break. Also, spare Losi parts are a little more expensive.

[bigair78]

How is a xxx-t2 rtr vs a mf2? What are the differences?

[gizmoguy303]

MF2 - for racing.
RTR - for bashing/club racing

You can buy the MF2 even if you don't plan on racing but it's kind of overkill. If you like building kits and choosing your own electronics, however, go for it.

[bigair78]

I can get a brand new xxx-t 2 rtr for 200 or a hopped up almost new T4 without electronics for two hundred. I really am going to bash and backyard race.

[gizmoguy303]

I'd go for the new XXX-T.

[bigair78]

before you say that look at this t4

http://i23.ebayimg.com/03/i/05/20/84/32_12.JPG

http://i2.ebayimg.com/03/i/05/21/7d/f9_12.JPG

http://i6.ebayimg.com/01/i/05/19/4f/cd_12.JPG

http://i2.ebayimg.com/02/i/05/21/7e/8f_12.JPG

http://i14.ebayimg.com/04/i/05/19/71/06_12.JPG

http://i5.ebayimg.com/03/i/05/1f/bf/17_12.JPG

Fully Assembled T4 W/Painted Interceptor Body
Racers Edge Translucent Green Workstand
RPM Flourescent Yellow Gear Cover
ProLine "Edge" Front Tires On Associated White Wheels
ProLine "Holeshot" Rear Tires On Associated White Wheels
New (3 Practice Runs) All Ball Studs
Team Associated Blue Anodized Titanium Turnbuckles W/New Blue Heavy Duty RPM Ball Cups On All Camber Turnbuckles, New Associated Ball Cups On Steering Turnbuckles

DuBro Yellow Antenna Tube

Trinity Blue Anodized Aluminum, Lightened & Milled Motor Plate

Just Built And Never Ran Front & Rear Shock Set With New Associated PN 1598 Blue Anodized Shock Cap Set, MIP Stainless Steel, Titainum-Nitride Coated Rear Shock Shafts, Associated PN 6417 Unobtanium Front Shock Shafts, Silver Front & Green Rear Spring Sets, All New O-rings & Plastic Pieces.

Extra Black & Gold Rear Spring Sets

Extra Green Front Spring Set

New (3 Practice Runs) MIP Universal Axle Set

New (3 Practice Runs) Associated Lightened Outdrive Set

Complete Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pin Set

New PN 33001 Trinity Blue Anodized Aluminum Front Bulkhead

Trinity Blue Anodized Aluminum Front Hinge Pin Brace

Trinity Blue Anodized Aluminum Upper Shock Mounts W/New Delrin Collars

New PN 33002 Trinity Blue Anodized Aluminum Front Caster Blocks
Extra Left Trinity Aluminum Caster Block

PN 33003 Trinity Blue Anodized Aluminum 0 Degree Rear Hub Carriers

PN 33009 Trinity Blue Anodized Aluminum Steering Servo Mounts

New PN AT4010 GPM Blue Alloy R/Arm Mount W/Delrin Inserts (Also New Extra Set Of Delrin Inserts)

Blue Anodized Aluminum Rear Axle Nuts

New (3 Practice Runs) Full Chassis/Transmission/SteeringBearing Set

Just Rebuilt Differential, Bearings, Carbide Diff. Balls, New Diff. Rings, New Thrust Screw And T-Nut, Thrust Bearings & Races, New Slipper Pads. Differential Is Ultra Smooth & Free-Wheeling
New Unused Complete Rear Swaybar Set
New "Factory Team" Blue Anodized Body Mounting Clips (4)
New Unused Blue Anodized Aluminum Dummy Transponder
New Unused 84T Spur Gear
New Unused Extra Rear A-Arm Set
New Unused Extra Right Front A-Arm
New Battery Foam Spacers Set
Original Composite Rear Hub Set
Extra Set Of #1, #2, & #3 Shock Orifices
Factory Plastic Tools
All Extra Servo Horns And Servo Mounting Spacers
Extra Used White Rear Wheel Set
Some Original Take-Off Pieces, Outdrive Set, Hinge Pins, Ball Ends, Shock Caps, Front & Rear Hinge Pin Brace, MIP Dogbone In Very Good Condition

Even with all this you would still go with a brand new xxx-t 2 rtr? I'm leaning that way too, just unsure.

[AE_racer38]

all that isn't necessary. a bone stock t4 is very,very durable. i've yet to break anything. i've wore out parts, but never broken parts. AE is known for durability. period.

[TBone77]

Honestly, I'd still get the XXX-T RTR.

Just my gut.