XXXER
02-17-2001, 11:20 PM
Steve, here it is, i decided to do it now, and ditch the chat room, LOL.
I am pretty good with motors guys, but i am still farely new to the whole "racing scene" but here goes
It happened, that dreadful time, where you get your comm cut that last time, and realize you need a new motor, and use that one as a back up. My first stock motor was a P2K standard(no "pro" motors in stock). I broke it in correctly, bushings and all, this motor was quick, to my suprise.
Many races later, I see it was time to get a new one. I had wanted to try something different, and the P2K was out, because i had one, The Green Machine 3 was out, due to the problems guys at my track have had with them, and the Reedy Rage was out, because it is a Piece. Leaving me with a Paradox, Spitfire, Chrome RS, and an Illusion. I was leaning towards the Chrome RS, mainly becuase i think the TOP based Mods are doing well(as seen at my track). The Spitfire and Chrome are the same motors, just a different sticker. I liked the look of the Chrome, so that was my plan.
Fast Forward to the hobby shop, they did not have any Chromes, but all the others i mentioned, and i was pretty set on the chrome, so that is what i got, i got the "standard" one, because, again, no "Dyno tuned" versions in stock(which is too bad, because they are the same price, 39.95, the MSRP, all stock motors have to have one of less than 40$ to be ROAR legal i believe). Talking with the worker, i asked for suggestions, and any thoughts on them, not much help, he said, "a stock motor is a stock motor". oh well, here goes, i went with the peak. 40 Bucks later, i busted open the package, looking at it, and the instructions, i read through completely, which did not give a huge amount of information, jsut optional springs and brushes.
A quick visual inspection was done, i spun the armerature, took the brushes out, rats, they were not serrated, and i do not have a serrater yet, so i knew those were going somewhere fast, the trash can. When i got home, i tore the motor apart, to take a look at the armerature and such.
Now, this is where i base my review against the P2K, that is what i am comparing this motor too. The Armerature is a twin rotor design, much like the P2K, except the laminations are machined down, do a nice round, and a shiny finish. Also, a difference i noticed, was the rotor's are further apart than the P2K's, which i am guessing has something to do with the "high rpm" purpose of this motor(that is what it is supposed to be) I almost forgot, i did find a little piece of something in there, which i am not sure, but i am glad i got it out. Another Plus towards this motor, is even though it is a "standard", the motor is shimmed, whereas the standard P2K is not. cool. The Polarized Brush heat sinks are also a nice touch.
These are the few things that griped me:
Pre-installed capacitors, there is only 2(!) of them? I have no idea what manufacturer says to use as little as 2, So i popped on a spare one i had, I did rough up the tab a bit, to get the solder to stick better, which i reccomend on any motor's tab.
Second, the motor is not tamper proof, as RCCA also described in their test, You need to take a dremel to it, and bam, adjustable timing, which, sadly, people do. The good thing is, i am not sure what it is called, but that motor ring that goes above the magnets, is a strong metal, not like the P2K's flimsy cheap aluminum one that can strip or bend.
That is it for the "off track" test. I broke in the bushing as in normal fashion, take brushes and springs off, lube bushings, and break them in on the dremel for about 3 minutes. After, i took it apart again, oogled at the arm one more time, then motor sprayed the can clean of lube, and the armerature.
Track Test:
I race at IR/CR in Utah, which sports a good sized indoor track, with very good clay, not Blue Groove, but very abrasive. With stocks, you gear quite low here, over the manufacture's suggested gearing. This was done in a XXX buggy, and i used a Fusion(POS i know, but it is getting replaced soon) Reedy World Class 2400's, and a gearing of 21/82, the same ratio i used with my P2K, with the same track layout. Before running it, i put in some trusty Reedy 767's(He can't make stocks for crap, but these brushes are amazing), and let them break in for 3 minutes. I eagerly set my car down, and ran up the driver's stand, and went for a few warm up laps, but one problem, this thing was a pig, so i went all out, still a pig, i went about half a battery before pulling it off the track, i checked for binding, none, the motor was cold, but my diagnoses was still overgearing, up to the counter to shell out more cash(of course, a 21 tooth, the only one i do not have from 18-25 http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/rolleyes.gif ) I choose losi pinions, because they are silent and have great wear. Back to my car, i put it one, threw in a fresh pack, ran up the driver's stand hoping to have better luck, and to my relief, the car was dang near ballistic, well, it was just the same as the P2K, i just needed to get used to the powerband, I did turn slower laps than i did with my P2K, but i am sure that with more practice, i will turn just as fast of laps. In the back straight it was no pig, and would hang with the faster guys in the back, to my suprise, LOL. Not even thinking about checking my motor temp after my practice, i awaited the 1st qualifier. It came, and went, my car was not very good, way too much sliding around, so i did a little bit of changing around with springs, and traction compound, then i thought to check my motor, the thing was completely cool, it was unreal, just above room temp, whereas my P2K was blistering hot, this thing was really cold, i could hold the motor in my hand, wrap it around, nothing. That was a big plus in my book.
That about wraps up my review, if you guys have any questions about this motor, please, ask, i plan on trying different brushes, and spring combos, i will post results of those after i do that.
All in all, i think this motor is pretty much on par with anything out there, and i am thinking now, this motor would be killer in cars where the motors are inside, and get very hot, like the HPI RS4's, and others.
again, any questions, ask away
I am pretty good with motors guys, but i am still farely new to the whole "racing scene" but here goes
It happened, that dreadful time, where you get your comm cut that last time, and realize you need a new motor, and use that one as a back up. My first stock motor was a P2K standard(no "pro" motors in stock). I broke it in correctly, bushings and all, this motor was quick, to my suprise.
Many races later, I see it was time to get a new one. I had wanted to try something different, and the P2K was out, because i had one, The Green Machine 3 was out, due to the problems guys at my track have had with them, and the Reedy Rage was out, because it is a Piece. Leaving me with a Paradox, Spitfire, Chrome RS, and an Illusion. I was leaning towards the Chrome RS, mainly becuase i think the TOP based Mods are doing well(as seen at my track). The Spitfire and Chrome are the same motors, just a different sticker. I liked the look of the Chrome, so that was my plan.
Fast Forward to the hobby shop, they did not have any Chromes, but all the others i mentioned, and i was pretty set on the chrome, so that is what i got, i got the "standard" one, because, again, no "Dyno tuned" versions in stock(which is too bad, because they are the same price, 39.95, the MSRP, all stock motors have to have one of less than 40$ to be ROAR legal i believe). Talking with the worker, i asked for suggestions, and any thoughts on them, not much help, he said, "a stock motor is a stock motor". oh well, here goes, i went with the peak. 40 Bucks later, i busted open the package, looking at it, and the instructions, i read through completely, which did not give a huge amount of information, jsut optional springs and brushes.
A quick visual inspection was done, i spun the armerature, took the brushes out, rats, they were not serrated, and i do not have a serrater yet, so i knew those were going somewhere fast, the trash can. When i got home, i tore the motor apart, to take a look at the armerature and such.
Now, this is where i base my review against the P2K, that is what i am comparing this motor too. The Armerature is a twin rotor design, much like the P2K, except the laminations are machined down, do a nice round, and a shiny finish. Also, a difference i noticed, was the rotor's are further apart than the P2K's, which i am guessing has something to do with the "high rpm" purpose of this motor(that is what it is supposed to be) I almost forgot, i did find a little piece of something in there, which i am not sure, but i am glad i got it out. Another Plus towards this motor, is even though it is a "standard", the motor is shimmed, whereas the standard P2K is not. cool. The Polarized Brush heat sinks are also a nice touch.
These are the few things that griped me:
Pre-installed capacitors, there is only 2(!) of them? I have no idea what manufacturer says to use as little as 2, So i popped on a spare one i had, I did rough up the tab a bit, to get the solder to stick better, which i reccomend on any motor's tab.
Second, the motor is not tamper proof, as RCCA also described in their test, You need to take a dremel to it, and bam, adjustable timing, which, sadly, people do. The good thing is, i am not sure what it is called, but that motor ring that goes above the magnets, is a strong metal, not like the P2K's flimsy cheap aluminum one that can strip or bend.
That is it for the "off track" test. I broke in the bushing as in normal fashion, take brushes and springs off, lube bushings, and break them in on the dremel for about 3 minutes. After, i took it apart again, oogled at the arm one more time, then motor sprayed the can clean of lube, and the armerature.
Track Test:
I race at IR/CR in Utah, which sports a good sized indoor track, with very good clay, not Blue Groove, but very abrasive. With stocks, you gear quite low here, over the manufacture's suggested gearing. This was done in a XXX buggy, and i used a Fusion(POS i know, but it is getting replaced soon) Reedy World Class 2400's, and a gearing of 21/82, the same ratio i used with my P2K, with the same track layout. Before running it, i put in some trusty Reedy 767's(He can't make stocks for crap, but these brushes are amazing), and let them break in for 3 minutes. I eagerly set my car down, and ran up the driver's stand, and went for a few warm up laps, but one problem, this thing was a pig, so i went all out, still a pig, i went about half a battery before pulling it off the track, i checked for binding, none, the motor was cold, but my diagnoses was still overgearing, up to the counter to shell out more cash(of course, a 21 tooth, the only one i do not have from 18-25 http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/rolleyes.gif ) I choose losi pinions, because they are silent and have great wear. Back to my car, i put it one, threw in a fresh pack, ran up the driver's stand hoping to have better luck, and to my relief, the car was dang near ballistic, well, it was just the same as the P2K, i just needed to get used to the powerband, I did turn slower laps than i did with my P2K, but i am sure that with more practice, i will turn just as fast of laps. In the back straight it was no pig, and would hang with the faster guys in the back, to my suprise, LOL. Not even thinking about checking my motor temp after my practice, i awaited the 1st qualifier. It came, and went, my car was not very good, way too much sliding around, so i did a little bit of changing around with springs, and traction compound, then i thought to check my motor, the thing was completely cool, it was unreal, just above room temp, whereas my P2K was blistering hot, this thing was really cold, i could hold the motor in my hand, wrap it around, nothing. That was a big plus in my book.
That about wraps up my review, if you guys have any questions about this motor, please, ask, i plan on trying different brushes, and spring combos, i will post results of those after i do that.
All in all, i think this motor is pretty much on par with anything out there, and i am thinking now, this motor would be killer in cars where the motors are inside, and get very hot, like the HPI RS4's, and others.
again, any questions, ask away