Slow Cobalt 9Teen...........

[RH Customs]

Has anybody had problems with there Cobalt 19 being to slow? Also what would the recceomended timing, what it be 24 like on a locked can or higher?

Thanks
RH

[gizmoguy303]

If it performed well when it was new, then you need (if you haven't already) to cut the comm and replace the brushes.

[RH Customs]

Hmm, maybe I should there is a defined brush brush ring. I'll give it a try ant let ya know.

Thanks
RH

[ikraj]

Learn your motor basics...

what do you mean by "is a defined brush brush ring" ... very good technologicaly inclined explanation...What do you mean by being too slow? How many RPMs, what is the current draw, etc.. Why don't you give factual information so that we can help you the right way and not speculate... or are you just asking this to let the RCX world know that you own a 19t COBALT?

that seems to be your NORM...

[RH Customs]

Learn your motor basics...

what do you mean by "is a defined brush brush ring" ... very good technologicaly inclined explanation...What do you mean by being too slow? How many RPMs, what is the current draw, etc.. Why don't you give factual information so that we can help you the right way and not speculate... or are you just asking this to let the RCX world know that you own a 19t COBALT?

that seems to be your NORM...

I have no way of exactly measuring rpm's or current draw and I'm sorry I can't afford $1,000's of test equipment :mad: , and no I'm not just letting people know that I have a 19 Cobalt. I just can't seem to understand why the rpm's of te cobalt are less than my C2's , and yet have the same amount or torque. :cool:

Thanks
RH

[gizmoguy303]

There are many factors at play: comm condition, brush condition, proper spring tension, brush hood alignment, and also the fact that one motor can be better than another motor of the same kind. If you haven't already, cut the comm and replace the brushes (or if you're running the XXX brushes, you may not need to replace the brushes yet). Play with the gearing - that may be the problem. Let an experienced friend look at it and tune it up for you. Good luck! :)

[Van Helsing]

All this hood alighn , brush condition, spring tention stuff is :confused: me ect..ect it will make me go brushless. I already went Nitro and i have both but my elec choice is a c2 pro or a reedy quad mag 19t @ 35$ .. still waiting on the approval on a 9teen cobalt!! 65$ :eek:

[ikraj]

Have you checked the condition of the armature, is it strsaight? There are so many things that can cause a motor to slow down. If you do not have the experience to diagnose it and fix it yourself the best thing to do is to ask a well known motor guy at your track to give you a hand fixing your motor. I am sure any good driver with motor experience at your track will be more than glad to help you fix your problem. Let them try it out and then see what happens. I think that is the best thing you can do to get your motor working as fast as possible. If I could help you from here I would, but to diagnose and repair your motor someone has to take a physical look at the motor and go from there. we can speculate about many causes but the best and fastest way to get it solved is to let someone with motor repair/tune experience do the job for you.

Good luck and I hope you get your motor in good working condition as soon as possible.

ikraj

[RH Customs]

I have alot of motor tuning experience I have been tunning my motors since I started racing, I'm a little rusty since I was out of the R/C thing for about 4 months. Although I know it is different from on road which I raced for 3+ years and only used Reedy Quad Mag 19's and C2's. I also know for the C2's the cross wound arm's are the best for having more low end torque as well as the same great speed. If it will help I will post some pictures very soon.

Thanks
RH

[rcguy2477]

If there is severe wear on the comm, than you will want to definitely get it cut. Since the brushes are the xxx's, you shouldnt have to replace them, just reserrate them if you have the tools. Follow the advice I gave to you on aim and tell me how your motor performs.

Jason Downey
www.axxis-racing.com

[highroller]

The 19turn mods generally come with either 24 or 36degree of timing. For racing the hot set varies with each individual racer. For brushes most use the Putnam XBrush, Trinity 4383, Reedy 728 and others. For springs Purple/Red, or 2 purples. Gearing is not like the normal 19turn specs even in oval racing, bottom line depends on size of the area and actual power levels each motor produces.
If you are bashing only start with a setup that minimizes wear try using Trinity 4380 or Reedy 732 Brushes, with red springs, reduces timing a little to no more than 24 degrees. Then get an assortment of pinions to find the gearing that works best with vehicle/motor combo.
Maintenance will be the biggest issue with a race setup, for 6cell racing inspect motor after 3 battery packs to no more than 6, 4cell use around 4 pack no more than 7-8. Most with perform a general cleaning with motor spray, followed by use a comm stick to remove the glazing from comm and brush surface after heat run. For bashing you can extend the use by 2-3 packs if you use a mild brush and setup. Each racer will true or skim the comm after 1 run and no more than 3-4 which limits taking big amount of material off comm. If you can't get someone to true it then the next thing is use a replacement armature. Yes even replacing a armature can sometime bring back some of the lost power and it's cheaper than buying a complete motor.
The 19turn mods should be faster than the standard 19turn Spec motors provided they use the correct setup and gearing. But still there are motors that should be good that aren't.

[RH Customs]

Well I have not yet, but I'm going to true the comm,in wich I will use my Cobra Stock/Mod lathe diamond bit and tryout some new brushes and experiment with springs. I might try the spring set up used on a C2 maybe that will work, and yes a heavy spring on the positive side.

RH

[RH Customs]

And we have liftoff, I just trues the comm just enough to remove the brush marks and changed the negative spring to green. Oh and also 27 degrees of timing. Thanks for all the help guys.

Thanks
RH

[streetracer]

What ESC are you using? If not set right, you could be trying to run a nice mod under a Stock setting. I ran into that my first run with my 10X1 Cobalt, but figured that out instantly.

[RH Customs]

Right now I am running the Novak XRS, but in the next fex weeks I'm going to start racing and then I will use the GTX.

RH

[rcguy2477]

I would put a red in place of the green. Green imo is a little too soft for 19t's.

[highroller]

Green springs are usually too light, that I agree. Normally start with 2 reds, if you have some way of testing the motor amps draw which can be a way of determining the correct spring tension - also depends on timing as well.
If amp draw builds quickly and stays steady (after brushes are broken in)the spring tension is okay. If it builds quickly but drops off spring tension is too light - if it takes a longer duration for amps to build up then tension is a little to heavy. Test the motor between 2 - 5 volts and if amp are unsteady then break in the brushes a little more.

[Stumper]

which I raced for 3+ years

Thanks
RH


Where did you race for 3+ years?? I dont even think Lunatic was open for 3 years and when I first started going out there you were'nt there........ Bring the BS train to the station and call it a day .....